trek 1.2 tire clearance

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The 1.2 is the middle of Trek's three 1 Series aluminium road bikes, sitting between the Shimano Claris-equipped 1.1 (£575) and the 1.5 (£750), which comes with Shimano Tiagra components.

Is it the right bike for you? We've picked out four reasons why it might be, along with a reason that might make you think twice.

1 It provides solid performance with few surprises

The 1.2 puts in a solid performance out on the road, offering a stable, predictable ride, the only real disappointment being the lack of braking power (see below).

Hitting the scales at 9.48kg (20.9lb), the 1.2 isn't as lively as many lighter bikes, but for £650 this is certainly a decent enough weight. Compared to bikes of a similar price, it accelerates well. You'll find a little more flex in the frame and fork than in higher level models in Trek's range, but this is a bike that's well capable of holding its own when you crank up the power.

You could't say that the 1.2 is the fastest climber but it's far from sluggish when things get lumpy. It's helped in its hill-climbing endeavours by a compact chainset (with 50-tooth and 34-tooth chainrings rather than 52 or 53 and 39). Most bikes of this price come with something similar these days. Matched up to an 11-28-tooth cassette, it'll allow you to get up the vast majority of gradients without your knees popping or your lungs bursting, while still providing enough big gears to keep you bowling along quickly on the flat and downhill.

Aluminium frames have a reputation for feeling harsh but that's a gross generalisation. Some are jarring – as some carbon frames are – but plenty aren't. This bike is certainly comfortable enough for racking up the big miles.

For a start, it comes in Trek's H2 fit. That requires a brief explanation. Compared to Trek's H1 fit, H2 has a taller head tube: 3cm taller in the case of our 58cm test model. Why? It puts you into a more upright riding position with less strain on your lower back and neck. You could achieve a similar position by adding a bunch of headset spacers on an H1 bike, but if you want your bars at that height, you're better off going for an H2 fit because the front end will be stiffer and the handling will be better.

The Bontrager Race VR-C alloy handlebar has a shallower drop than usual too: 124mm rather than the 145mm you get on Bontrager's Race Lite Classic, for example. That means it's that much easier to get down on the drops. A lot of people have a bar with a deep drop and rarely take their hands off the hoods.

The other reason for the comfort is that the 1.2 is inherently pretty smooth. Sure, there are plenty of bikes out there that will filter our more road vibration but this one does a decent enough job on that front. Swapping the 23mm tyres for 25s would add more comfort but this bike isn't crying out for them by any means.

The Bontrager Gel Cork bar tape provides good cushioning for your hands and the Bontrager Affinity 1 saddle has plenty of padding too. Truth be told, I found it a little too soft, verging on squidgy, but everyone has their own taste when it comes to saddles.

2 You get a neat, well-proven frame and fork

All three bikes in the 1 Series share the same 100 Series Alpha Aluminium frame. It's fairly busy looking with a squared off upper edge to the down tube that makes it resemble that of Trek's more costly Madone.

The top tube slopes towards the seat tube junction and tapers down as it does so, and slim seatstays provide compliance at the back.

You get mounts for a mudguard and a rack back there too. They'll be useful if you want to ride the bike year round and perhaps carry stuff to and from work on a daily commute.

You don't get the oversized bottom bracket or tapered head tube that are regular features designed to add stiffness to higher-end performance bikes, but this is a £650 bike and the frame is good for the money. The welds are pretty tidy throughout and the same can be said of the paint job.

The fork is Trek's own with carbon blades and an alloy steerer. Like the frame, it comes with eyelets for fitting mudguards that will save a lot of faffing.

It's worth noting that the Trek 1.2 is available in eight sizes from 47cm up to 62cm. That range will cover nearly everyone.

3 Shimano's Sora shifters and mechs are excellent for the money

Nine-speed Sora is Shimano's fifth tier road groupset (if you don't count the electronic variants) and it offers fantastic value for money.

Back in the olden days (before last year), you changed gear on Sora by pushing the brake lever to the side or by using a small thumb lever on the side of the shifter body, depending on the direction you wanted to shift.

Now, though, Sora levers are Dual Control, so instead of that thumb lever, there's a lever tucked behind the brake lever. It's the same design that Shimano use right up to top-level Dura-Ace and it's a big improvement, making it far easier to change gear from the drops.

Resting your hands on the hoods is comfortable and there's a little gear indicator on the top of each of the levers that you might find useful. I can't say I ever checked them – I just couldn't get into the habit – but they're there if you want to.

Whereas the gear cables run underneath the bar tape on Shimano's higher level groupsets, they head out from the side of the levers with Sora and loop around to the frame in the fresh air. That's certainly not a problem from a functional point of view, although visually it's a less tidy way of doing things. That's being picky, though. Sora shifting has taken a massive leap forward with this latest design. It works very much like the highest level offerings from Shimano, just adding a little weight. Even there, the difference isn't massive.

Trek don't give you a complete Sora groupset here, just the shifters and mechs. The chainset is FSA Vero, a square taper design that does its job just fine, and the brakes, as mentioned, are unbranded.

Most other big brand bikes at this price, such as the Giant Defy 3 (£649) and the Felt F95 (£649), have Shimano Sora components too. It's worth comparing the spec sheets to see exactly how they match up, but don't buy a bike solely on that basis.

4 Bontrager's wheels and other components are good, reliable kit

The wheels are made up from Bontrager's own alloy hubs, containing cup and cone (rather than cartridge) bearings, and Tubeless Ready http://www.bontrager.com/technology/why_tubeless_ready rims. That means you can run the wheels without inner tubes at some point in the future, although you'll need to upgrade to Tubeless Ready tyres first.

The tyres that come fitted as standard are Bontrager's T1s (700 x 23). They're some pretty hefty rubber, made for durability rather than all-out speed, but they're reasonably resistant to punctures and they hold the road well even in damp conditions.

I had no problems at all with the wheels during the month-long test period. They're not the lightest wheels ever, taking some coaxing up to speed, but they're still as round and as true as they were out of the box, and there's a lot to be said for trouble-free operation. Fast wheels aren't so fast when you're standing on the side of the road trying to remove a broken spoke.

Most of the rest of the kit is no-nonsense stuff from Bontrager too, the handlebar, stem and seatpost being reliable alloy options and the Affinity 1 saddle providing at least as much cushioning as most people will want.

And the compromises

There are no two ways about it, the 1.2's brakes are disappointing. Trek have put the Shimano Sora theme to one side here and specced nameless dual pivot callipers that lack bite. Don't get me wrong, they're consistent and they'll stop you, just not as quickly as you might like. You have to engage the brakes for a bit longer than normal or pull the levers a bit harder to get down to your desired speed.

You adjust to this within a ride or two and don't really think about it until you ride with people who have better brakes on their bikes, or jump back on to a bike with better brakes yourself. Then you're struck by the contrast.

Swapping the brake pads helps, but the bottom line is that these brakes are a compromise to make a price point and, for me, they're the weakest aspect of the entire bike.

Other compromises? There's nothing that really stands out. Trek offer a decent all-round package here.

The Trek 1.2 is a very good bike for the money. The frame and fork are sound, reliable options and the Sora shifters and mechs are better than anything previously available for this kind of cash. They're a great example of the benefits of trickle down technology.

Yes, if you pay a couple of hundred pounds more you'll get a lighter bike that leaps into life more eagerly when you up the intensity for a sprint or tough climb, but that's always the way. As it is, the Trek 1.2 is a very able road bike that'll reward your efforts with decent speed, and it's comfortable enough to ride all day long. The fact that it comes with mudguard and rack eyelets increases its versatility, so you can use it as a year-round workhorse if that's what you're after.

We'd have no hesitation recommending this bike for someone after their first proper road bike, or for anyone else looking for plenty of value.

Very good value, ideal for anyone looking for a first real road bike, with just the brakes as a low point

road.cc test report

Make and model: Trek 1.2

Size tested: 58

About the bike

State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike.

Frame 100 Series Alpha Aluminium

Fork Trek carbon road

Sizes 47, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 60, 62cm

Front hub Bontrager alloy

Rear hub Bontrager alloy

Rims Bontrager Tubeless Ready

Tyres Bontrager T1, 700x23c

Shifters Shimano Sora, 9 speed

Front derailleur Shimano Sora

Rear derailleur Shimano Sora

Crank FSA Vero, 50/39/30 (triple)

Cassette SRAM PG-950, 11-28, 9 speed

Pedals Nylon body w/alloy cage, toe-clip/strap

Chain KMC X9

Bontrager Affinity 1

Seatpost Bontrager Alloy, 2-bolt head, 27.2mm, 8mm offset

Handlebar Bontrager Race, VR-C, 31.8mm

Stem Bontrager Elite Blendr, w/computer & light mounts, 31.8mm, 7 degree

Headset 1-1/8" semi-cartridge bearings

Brakeset Alloy dual-pivot

Accessories

Bar tape Bontrager gel cork tape

Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike?

Trek say: "1 Series aluminium road bikes feature the same aero shaping and race-ready detail as our top-end bikes. They're strong, light, and built to fly over the pavement," [Trek, being from the US, use "pavement" to mean the surface of a road rather than a path].

Frame and fork

Tell us about the build quality and finish of the frame and fork?

It's a tried and tested frame built to a high quality. The same goes for the carbon leg/alloy steerer fork.

Tell us about the materials used in the frame and fork?

The frame is made from aluminium: what Trek call 100 Series Alpha Aluminium.

Tell us about the geometry of the frame and fork?

The 1.2 is built to Trek's H2 geometry that I've explained in the body of the review. Essentially, it's slightly more relaxed than a full-on aggressive race position, but it's still speed orientated.

How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size?

It's a little taller at the front end than a traditional low and stretched road bike.

Riding the bike

Was the bike comfortable to ride? Tell us how you felt about the ride quality.

I found it comfortable both in terms of ride position and ride quality. It's certainly a long way from being a bone shaker.

Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?

It's not mega-stiff but it's not too flexy either.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's comfort? would you recommend any changes?

I found the saddle a touch too squidgy for my taste, but I'd rather that than too firm.

In all of these marks, I'm comparing the bike to similarly priced alternatives.

The drivetrain

Wheels and tyres, your summary.

Did you enjoy riding the bike? Yes.

Would you consider buying the bike? It would certainly be on my shortlist if I was after a bike at about this price.

Would you recommend the bike to a friend? I'd recommend it should be on their shortlist too.

Anything further to say about the bike in conclusion?

Nearly all big brand bikes at this price have these features: aluminium frame, fork with carbon legs and alloy steerer, an incomplete Shimano Sora groupset (chainset and brakes being the most frequent omissions), in-house aluminium handlebar, stem and seatpost. If you simply compare spec lists, you'll see that the 1.2 comes out better than some and not quite as well as others.

However, we'd caution against making a decision based solely on a comparison of spec sheets. We've not reviewed all of the 1.2's chief rivals, but we can tell you that this bike will provide you with a very good all-round performance, the brakes being the only real low point.

Overall rating: 8 /10

About the tester

Age: 43   Height: 190cm   Weight: 75kg

I usually ride:    My best bike is:

I've been riding for: Over 20 years   I ride: Most days   I would class myself as: Expert

I regularly do the following types of riding: commuting, club rides, sportives, general fitness riding,

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Mat has been in cycling media since 1996, on titles including BikeRadar, Total Bike, Total Mountain Bike, What Mountain Bike and Mountain Biking UK, and he has been editor of 220 Triathlon and Cycling Plus. Mat has been road.cc technical editor for over a decade, testing bikes, fettling the latest kit, and trying out the most up-to-the-minute clothing. He has won his category in Ironman UK 70.3 and finished on the podium in both marathons he has run. Mat is a Cambridge graduate who did a post-grad in magazine journalism, and he is a winner of the Cycling Media Award for Specialist Online Writer. Now over 50, he's riding road and gravel bikes most days for fun and fitness rather than training for competitions.

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13 comments.

I'm riding this bike now for over 6 years. Inexpensive when bought for  €600. Needed maintenance about 2 years ago which was about €400 (new wheelset, cassette/chain/cabling etc). I've replaced the 700x23-tyres by 700x25-tyres a long time ago without changing anything else. Works like a charm.

Great value for the money but brakes could indeed be better. Meanwhile looking to add a new bike (and use this one solely on the Tacx) with disc-brakes.

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The current Trek 1 Series bikes have plenty of clearance for fixed mudguards, even with a 25mm tyre. The 2013 1.2 had little clearance, and this was because Trek used the 2 series frame for that particular year. I'm guessing evo_playa has one of these. Agree that SKS Raceblade Long guards are great. The lack of availability is due to a redesign - SKS are developing the new version to allow for bikes with disc brakes. I gather they won't be available until this autumn at the earliest. UK distributors sold out of the old versions months ago.

Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

Tin Pony wrote: Seems like a comparable spec and set up to other value bikes. Agree that even low spec bikes are good and has recently made me question my prior choice of 105 or nothing. Anyone know if Claris is any good ? Always found the Trek styling a bit bland but this one looks ok. The latest B twin road bikes seem anazing value if your in the market for a new bike. www.tinpony.co.uk/shop

The 8 speed Sora front and rear Derailleurs on my Trek are long since worn out and were replaced with Claris just before the winter kicked in. It works really smooth with no problems - even on the old Sora shifters with thumb button.

I've had the 2011 1.1 with shimano 2300 (remember that?) for just over 4 years now, and it certainly scrubs up well. Even with just 2300 and a different wheelset I've raced on it for a couple of years to some success, it certainly doesn't feel like it holds me back, which is very impressive for such a cheap machine. In fact, I like it enough to complete the change to 5700 groupset in the spring.

I can't say I ever had a problem with the brake calipers, and I can't tell the difference between the alloy calipers and the Shimano long drop calipers having swapped them out- they are certainly good enough.

However, I'm not a fan of the H2 fit with the massive head tube- I hate long head tubes and was lucky to get mine before they were introduced.

Excellent winter trainer and commuter. My 2007 Trek 1.2 is still going strong - it's had a few minor changes but still has the Sora 8 speed with thumb button - oh and a pannier rack!

It's still a lovely bike to ride and recommended first road bike.

Not a racing bike. Sit up and beg.

WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Mike T. wrote: WHY wouldn't they put sensible 25mm tyres on the bike?

Quite. I can't really understand why they'd have clearances so tight, seems unecessary. It may be that 25mm tyres would work with some mudguards already mentioned, but probably not full guards that also help keep crud off the chainset especially in winter.

Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets.

Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

As ever, SKS Raceblade Longs. Sorted.

KiwiMike wrote: craigr wrote: Word of warning though, if it is like my Trek 1.2 with the carbon fork you will be lucky to get a fixed mudguard that fits even though the bike has mudguard eyelets. Clearance on the front is not good and i had to end up using Crud mudguards for the front wheel.

Tried quite a few including SKS chromeplastic ones.

edit: tracked them down, looks like instock here : http://www.tredz.co.uk/.SKS-Race-Blade-Long-Mudguard-Set_51833.htm

Fairly simple and inexpensive to swap out the substandard brake calipers.

I upgraded my Trek 1.1 to Shimano non series long drop brake calipers and the difference in braking was amazing.

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08 Trek 1.2 Tire Clearance

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I was wondering if any of you out there in internet world could give me an idea of the amount of tire clearance on the new Trek 1.2. Mainly for running knobbies and mud. Thanks.  

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Trek Pilot 1.2 Road Bike

Frame: Alpha SL Aluminum Fork: Bontrager Satellite Plus, carbon Wheels: Shimano Tiagra hubs; Alex alloy rims Crank: Bontrager Select 52/42/30 Rear Derailleur: Shimano 105 Sizes: 50, 52, 54, 56, 58, 63cm

• USER REVIEWS

Cheap, acceptably light, comfortable. Spec is very good (many branded parts, 105 rear, hubs etc) compared to the generic trash that you'd get in this price bracket post-2008.

Well it's not new any more & looks dated, esp. the compact geometry... The basic ridng position is too leisurely even on the drops. Wheels are heavy & unresponsive, ableit tough.

Bought this cheap (£200) 2nd hand to "build up" as a fast hack. Frankly rubbish as bought (too upright, weak brakes, basic rims) but realy quite good in modified format. The original Tiagra/105 rig works very well & the stem/forks do a decent job keeping the ride forgiving. The weight is perfectly acceptable considering the age & cost of the bike.

Similar Products Used:

Giant SCR2 Trek 2.1

Sturdy. I have replaced the chain and brake pads and that's it. The wheels are bomb proof. In almost 3,000 miles they have never been trued and don't need it. Range of gearing is more than adequate. Very comfortable seating position with replacement seat and after fitting. Fast enough. 28mm tires are perfect for broken potholed roads while still providing some speed. The stock Kevlar belted tires will probably outlast my car tires. Allows for 2 bottle cages and holes for rear rack- although my mounting brackets hit the brake cable as it entered the brake. Like that the rear derailleur is 105SC.

Bomb proof wheels and aluminum frame make for a jarring ride over broken Chicago area roads. Feels a little pokey at times (could be the driver). A little heavy for a road bike. Tire fit is VERY tight (maybe not so much of a negative- I have had to replace a couple of tubes where valves broke- no puncture or pinch flats). Brakes are a little soft.

The bike is actually a 2008 model. Purchased in March 2008. I have ridden it for about 2 1/2 years and have just about 3,000 miles. It has been very reliable and easy to ride. After the first year I had the bike professionally fitted. Seat was raised, stem replaced. I ride recreationally, errands, and some commuting. I have completed 2 Centuries on this bike without undue soreness. Overall I am very pleased. It is a good compromise of comfort, speed, reliability and sturdiness for my purposes. Good all purpose road bike for someone commuting and running errands, as well as recreational riding.

Trek 1000 Road bike previously. This is my only bike now.

It's very comfortable for rides from around the block all the way up to a century. Hardware has been very reliable.

Relaxed riding position does makes you work harder when trying to keep up with competitive friends.

I bought this bike in the end of 07 as my reintroduction to road cycling. Aside from the seat and pedals it's totally stock. There was a bad bearing in the rear end last year but beyond that it's been almost maintenance free. For the relatively low price I've been very impressed with this bike.

more upright position. Good reliable gears, Drop handle bars provide a good 3 hand positions.

wheelbase a little short for the longer distance tour rides. Brakes not as strong as I'd like.

This replaced a 1983 Miyata 1000 which was just used up and shot. The Miyata 1000 is a hard act to follow. Pilot 1.2 conveys more road shock and took a bit of getting used to with a shorter wheelbase than the touring bike it replaced. It is good, reliable, comfortable. The gearing is a little compact for my rides, the low not being quite low enough to easily get up the steep hills and the highest gear spins out at less than 35 mph. It's a good ride, but not a great one.

Well made, reasonably light, very comfortable, nice looking.

for the money, none. Well, the stock wheels, Bontrager Race Lites, had a problem cracking near the spokes, but they were replaced by LBS promptly. With the Mavics everything's good.

I bought the bike after a short experience on a flat handlebar giant, a hybrid bike, which I used primarily for commuting 13 miles a day. I love the Trek. It's very comfortable, responsive and nimble enough to make me feel like I'm riding something much more expensive. I now have about 15,000 miles on it and have no problems to report. I put some Mavic Ksyrium Elite wheels on it which dramatically improved the ride, and a 105 crankset, that made pedaling more efficient. Now I take it on 60 mile rides pretty regularly and enjoy every minute.

Viscount Road bike from the 70's.

Frame and components are good enough to work reasonably well without being insanely expensive. Wheels are particularly good. With over 5000 km ridden so far, I haven't had to have the wheels trued. Auxiliary brake levers are very useful, because once in a while I get stuck in the middle of the pack and I can ride with my head up and my hands on the brakes.

Haven't found any yet, and having ridden over 5000 km in a year that isn't over yet, if there were weaknesses I would have found them. The only problem is that Trek discontinued the product line.

Great value. Fast enough to keep up on 100 km club rides with enthusiasts on bikes that are four or five times the price. Very comfortable because of the relaxed riding position - the longest rides I've done have been in the 150 to 160 km range, and it doesn't make my back hurt. Thanks to the local bike shop for that. They found me a bike that fits both my height/build and riding style on the first try.

None. My last road bike was a Peugeot purchased in about 1975, and the technology has changed a lot since then. I have a mountain bike (another Trek) but both the bike and the riding conditions are so different that there is no meaningful comparison.

Handling, dual brakes, riding position, price

Transmits vibrations easily

I've clocked 700+ miles on this bike, usually on very crowded and busy city streets that aren't always very well paved, This bicycle provides superb control, very good stiffness and is light enough to pick and lift over a gate or a divider with ease. The dual brakes are a huge boon for city riding and its rims have stood up to some bone jarring punishment from the cracks in concrete streets at 20 miles an hour. The bike was great value too, with Shimano Tiagra shifters and 105 derailleurs.

handeling, stable, light weight, price point,

My first bike. Have logged 2,300 miles with excellent performance, stable, light weight,for the price point a real value,upgrading to a Specialized Roubaix Expert Ultegra or Expert Rival...

Strength, it hauls me and my pannier rack full of gear with no problems. Comfortable bike.

Stock seat is real bad. I bought a Koobie PRS and realy like it.

This is my first road bike. I bought it because of the upright riding position and price. I am a big guy at 6'2" 260ish. This bike has held up great. I have over 1500 miles on it.

solid, lightweight, and handles easily. It corners well and despite it's light weight, holds the road well. I like the dual brakes, which I understand they eliminated after 2006.

It's a little stiff, and you can feel every bump in the road, but I suppose that's typical of Carbon forks. (?)

This is also MY first real bike....good pricepoint for what I was getting, and a very easy and smooth ride. This is my first year cycling (not just biking). I like the more upright style, and have since added aero bars. It has held up very well so far, with just over 1000 miles logged in 4 months.

My last bike was an old steel Giant...no comparison

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Trek 1.2 review

Solid entry-level roadster compromised by some dodgy kit

David Rome / Immediate Media

Proven frame geometry with balanced handling and position, quality wheels, saddle

Tyres, brakes, tight handlebar bend, and did we mention tyres?

We so often expect the finest from Trek, and more than a few BikeRadar staff personally own bikes from the American brand. Sadly, the 1.2 just left us wanting more when we rode it back-to-back with its latest direct competitors as part of our best entry-level 2016 road bikes shootout.

Looking on the bright side, there are very few bad bikes when looking at the biggest and most trusted brands. And the 1.2 isn’t a bad bike by any stretch of the imagination, but it does need a few small component upgrades in order to showcase its true potential.

Related: Best entry-level road bikes: US/Aus / UK

Balanced and reactive ride, some nerve-wracking kit choices

The 1.2 places the rider in an easy and upright riding position

Featuring Trek’s well-respected ‘H2’ geometry, the 1.2 offers a comfortable ride position for the recreational cyclist. With this, the front-end height of the 1.2 allows for a reasonably upright position, without compromising the descending composure of the bike.

The 1.2's handling is a strong point and compared favourably against all the bikes in our shootout, with a good feel for the road in both stability and feedback. Line up for a corner, and the bike keeps to that line, without signs of over or under-steer.

While the frame isn’t the most compliant we’ve ridden, it’s no rattle can either – meaning the 1.2 holds its composure on rutted roads. The 1.2 is, however, one of the rougher bikes we tested, and that's something that the hard tyres must take responsibility for.

Ride comfort is a tough point to discuss as this price point, with so much variance given by tyre and saddle choice. So while it may not be fair to judge a bike on its tyres or saddle choice once you get higher up the ladder, here a simple change of rubber could add as much as 20% to the bike’s original price.

Between these brakes and tyres, the 1.2 can feel a little nervous

Trek’s own component brand, Bontrager, makes some incredibly good parts. But the T1 tyres on this bike are a budget choice and feature a rubber compound and construction that hurts the 1.2’s compliance and traction.

With this, the other five bikes we tested all feature 25mm (25c) width tyres, whereas the 1.2 offers 23mm (23c). With less air volume to absorb road shocks, the tyres are further disadvantaged by a stiff construction (though this does at least do well to fight off flats).

The tyres strike again when hitting corners at speed, where the harder rubber compound feels nervous and lacking in road hold. It’s a sensation you really don’t want to experience in any bike, let alone one that claims to offer the race inspiration of its premium siblings.

Further compounding the issue, the Trek 1.2’s brakes are the joint-worst out of the bikes we tested (more on which below). This makes the approach into corners all that more nervous as lacking power typically makes you overbrake.

When you do not want to slow down, the 1.2 accelerates impressively and with aggression. Under hard sprints the frame shows little give, and despite the weight, the wheels have a responsive feel.

Unflashy but competent frame

The Trek 1.2 is the only bike on test with a 'UCI-approved' sticker. Though to be honest, it's not really important

Made of Trek’s ‘Alpha 100 series' alloy, this road frame offers trickle-down from Trek's illustrious Madone series of bikes. With this, the square-profile hydroformed tube shapes are claimed to draw on the Madone’s aerodynamic designs.

Despite our issues with the kit, there’s little to complain of in the frame. While its rather straight-line tube shapes may lack flash, it does everything it should and demonstrates a respectable build quality.

There’s nothing fancy about the 1.2’s frame or fork, but that’s also part of the appeal. The bottom bracket is threaded, the cables are externally routed and the head tube features commonly available bearings. And when it comes time to clean it, the paint is a silky-smooth gloss finish.

Rack mounts sit out of the frame

Built with versatility in mind, the frame offers fender mounts front and rear, with rack mounts out back too, which are ready to accept the most common aftermarket options.

With nine-speed Shimano Sora gearing, the 1.2 is on par with its peers. The shifting isn’t as fast as more expensive groupsets, but once correctly adjusted it doesn’t miss a beat.

The FSA crank works, but a Shimano Sora unit works better

Up front, Trek has supplied a FSA compact crank. The shifting on this is actually pretty decent, and only marginally slower than that of a Shimano Sora item. That said, the setup isn’t as stiff and does reveal some minor chain rub against the front derailleur when pushing hard under power. Keeping it spinning, the internal-bearing bottom bracket system is an old and proven durable design, although it does come at a small weight penalty.

The wide-range 11-32t cassettes on the Specialized Allez E5 Sport and Giant Defy 3 we tested alongside the Trek show great positives for riders just getting into cycling, while still wanting to tackle hillier and longer rides. The Trek’s 11-28t cassette isn’t small and offers enough to spin up severe climbs, but neither is it generous. Bear in mind that a new rear derailleur will be needed in order to swap in a more climb-friendly 11-32 cassette.

Speaking of swapping things, the 1.2’s generic brakes are, not to put too fine a point on it, shocking. Switching brake pads for premium models is cheap option and would help a lot, but the cheap calipers themselves will remain a hindrance.

More positively, many of the bike’s Bontrager components are really good, such as the twin-bolt alloy seatpost, which is perhaps the nicest of the six bikes tested.

Similarly, while the tyres don’t do the brand justice, the wheels they wrap certainly do. The 23mm wide rims are the second widest of those tested, and ballooned the 23c tyres to an actual 24c. The build is top-notch, and the bladed spokes provide a premium aesthetic.

Tubeless-ready rims, that's different

These rims are ready to work with Bontrager’s ‘TLR’ tubeless system. However, such a system requires the purchase of rim strips, valves, sealant and new tyres – something that doesn’t come so cheap. On the bright side, tubeless-compatibility isn’t mentioned on any other bike as this price, and such an upgrade would solve a handful of our complaints regarding this ride.

The handlebar is quality too, although some testers complained the bar’s drop was too short and that their wrists would contact the top of the bar. The Bontrager stem looks like any other, but it cleverly hides the ‘BlendR’ feature for integrated compatibility with Bontrager’s line of bike computers and lights.

This seatpost and saddle are near-brilliant for the pricepoint

Saddles commonly divide our test teams, but the medium-width Bontrager Paradigm was one of the more universally preferred shapes. Those brand-new to cycling may be scared off by its limited padding, but its shape is a good one and worth trying.

Conclusion: greatness awaits, but at a price

The bike is good and we still enjoyed our time testing it, but that’s just not enough when some of the competition is great.

This all said, the 1.2’s issues are easily fixed. If you were to change the tyres and brake calipers you’d have yourself a pretty solid starting bike without issues. However, you'd probably also have reached into a price point where bikes feature Shimano Tiagra components, and give riders fewer headaches over having to make such upgrades.

Click through the gallery up top for a closer look at this bike. If you haven't already, be sure to read the full 2016 budget road bikes grouptest here .

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2011 Trek 1.2

An aluminum frame race bike with mid-range components and rim brakes.

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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TsODD recommended that Moscow drivers change summer tires

2019-10-25T06:45:30.345Z

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The Center for Traffic Management (DPC) of Moscow recommends that drivers change their summer tires to winter tires due to a cold snap next week. This is reported by Interfax.

“According to weather forecasts, from next week at night the temperature will drop below zero degrees, so drivers need to begin preparations for the winter season,” the report said.

As noted in the center, with "the onset of subzero temperatures, summer tires ceases to provide good grip."

The data center recommended changing the tires in advance, as this will help to avoid queues for tire fitting.

“We remind drivers that the driving style in winter is different from the summer time of the year. Motorists need to consider that the braking distance in the cold season is longer, so sharp maneuvers should be avoided, ”the report emphasizes.

On October 16, the scientific director of the Hydrometeorological Center, Roman Vilfand, told the NSN that in order to change automobile rubber, it is necessary to wait for the stability of the cold.

Source: russiart

All news articles on 2019-10-25

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Loved the world over, the Marlin has long held the hearts of new riders and seasoned rippers alike, and to keep everyone rolling with ear-to-ear grins we’ve revamped it with more trail confidence than ever. Whether zipping through town, dipping your toes into the trail for the first time or slicing through switchbacks as a well-seasoned rider, you’ll appreciate the sleek new frame that ups the capability and brings looks to match. There’s a reason why it’s always been your favourite.

Total trail confidence A bike's geometry is the defining framework it's built on, and the Marlin is a true mountain bike at it's core. Its measurements are perfectly dialled to give you a confidence-inspiring, planted feel when you’re rolling down steep and bumpy trails, while keeping it easy to pedal back to the top when you’re ready for another lap.

Marlin’s head tube (a) sits at a slacker (more acute) angle. The slacker head tube angle (b) moves your front wheel further in front of you. Take it to the trail, and this slacker head tube angle (b) boosts stability and control for confidence when descents get steep and rowdy.

To balance a slacker head tube angle (b) , the Marlin features a steeper (more upright) seat tube angle (d) . A steeper seat tube (c) lets you get the most out of every pedal stroke, so you don’t waste power on the climb to the top.

The Marlin is equipped with a short stem and wider handlebar for more direct control and responsiveness when you’re manoeuvring through rocks and roots. Meanwhile, a longer reach (e) gives you extra stability so you can ride faster and more confidently.

Secure your ride

A new Thru-Skew axle provides better rear wheel security, holding your wheel in place snugly and ensuring it doesn't slip out of the frame, even when you're rolling through rough-and-tumble terrain.

Fully guarded

Full-length, full-coverage guards on the chainstay protect your frame and keep your ride quiet.

Float on the trail

Big 2.4˝ tyres elevate traction, so you stay planted on dusty switchbacks. But not only do bigger tyres give you more grip — they also soak up bumps for a smoother ride.

Upgrade ready

With a frame this nice, you won’t want to part ways with your Marlin as your skills grow. The Marlin Gen 3 is upgrade-ready, so you can upgrade your bike when you upgrade your skills. New internal cable routing lets you install a dropper post – and sizes XS and up can be upgraded to a bigger 120 mm fork when you’re ready to take on bigger trails.

A bike for everyone We believe that every rider deserves a well-fitted bike, that’s why the Marlin is available in every size from XXS to XXL – and even an 'extra-medium' size for riders who fall in between a medium and large. Each size is tuned to its riders, with Smart Wheel Sizing that scales the wheel size with the bike size, so every rider has comfortable standover height. Smaller, XXS and XS frames also feature a curved top tube to boost confidence and make getting on and off a breeze.

• Shop XS bikes

Make Marlin yours Whether you’re regularly ripping up the trail or a rugged city commuter, your Marlin can be fully customised with a treasure-trove of accessories. From kickstands and grips to bottle cages and bags, you can turn your Marlin into the perfect bike for your everyday ride.

• Deck out your Marlin

Trek warranty and backing We believe that when you put your heart and soul into something, you should have the stomach to back it up. That’s why we stand behind all Trek bikes with a limited-lifetime warranty. From your first ride to your 500th, we’ll be here for you in the unlikely event that something goes wrong with your Marlin. All you have to do is pop into your local Trek retailer and you’ll find all the support you need to get back spinning in no time.

The Marlin family Both generations of Marlins are true mountain bikes aimed at the rider who wants a versatile hardtail capable of off-road singletrack or in-city missions. Both generations have a 100 mm travel suspension fork and 29” wheels on most sizes except for smaller sizes with proportionate suspension travel and wheels, thus making it a great bike for shorter riders as well.

Marlin Gen 2

Get all-around versatility on Marlin Gen 2. It fits up to 2.2˝ tyres, and features balanced, neutral geometry that keeps you comfortable and in control as you venture off-road.

Marlin Gen 3

Get serious trail capability with Marlin Gen 3’s bigger, 2.4˝ tyre clearance, internal dropper post routing and a stiffer, more secure ThruSkew rear axle. Plus, its updated longer, slacker geometry gives you a boost in stability on steeper trails and at higher speeds.

Looking for something more to fill your singletrack appetite?

If you’re itching for a lighter weight, even faster hardtail, the X-Caliber is your ride. It’s light, sleek and efficient – perfect for new riders, cross-country racers and anyone who wants to cover a lot more trail miles in a lot less time.

The Roscoe delivers the capability of a full suspension trail bike in a simple hardtail package. The laid-back geometry that gives you tons of stability on rowdier trails, and it rolls on big 2.6˝ tyres that give tons of traction for getting through rough and tricky sections of trail.