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Japan Eases Travel Restrictions For Passengers From Hong Kong, Opens All Cities

Japan, had limited passenger flights from hong kong on december 30, but recently opened up travel to all cities for visitors from the region..

By: Anushka Goel Published: Jan 05, 2023 08:45 PM UTC

Japan, which had limited passenger flights from Hong Kong on December 30 (Friday), recently announced that it has opened up travel to all cities for passengers from the region. Here are the details.

As per the latest reports, Japan has opened up all its cities to travellers from Hong Kong. As per its earlier update on December 30, 2022, only a handful of destinations could be visited by people from Hong Kong , as a means to curb the spread of COVID-19 in Japan. On Wednesday, January 4, the Japanese government overturned this ruling, making travelling to all airports in the country permissible for visitors from the region, the report states.

Japan travel opens up again for Hong Kong locals

On December 30, the Japanese government limited the number of cities travellers from Hong Kong could fly to. These were Narita and Haneda in Tokyo, Kansai in Osaka, Chubu in Nagoya, New Chitose in Hokkaido, Fukuoka and Naha in Okinawa, reports South China Morning Post . Six days later, the ruling was overturned, allowing visitors to explore all cities in Japan.

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Last week, when the ruling came about, Hong Kong’s government had stated that the curbs would affect at least 60,000 passengers, many of who had pre-planned their trips to Japan ahead of the Chinese New Year, which begins on January 21, 2023. Not just that, the government added that while it welcomes the relaxations added by Japan on travel towards the nation, they are urging them to remove all remaining restrictions that target flights from the Chinese special administrative region, writes Channel News Asia .

Book your stay at Marunouchi Hotel Tokyo here

Japan is among the many nations that are imposing travel restrictions on passengers from China, especially after Beijing’s decision to lift its strict zero-COVID-19 policies in December 2022. This comes at a time when the threat of a new COVID wave looms large, and nations across the world are readying themselves for the impact it might create.

Hero and Featured Image: Courtesy of Clay Banks/Unsplash

Related:  3 Incredible Itineraries For Travellers Finally Heading Back To Japan

• covid travel
• travel news
• travel to Japan

Anushka Goel

Anushka has previously worked with publications such as the Times of India and Being Indian. A graduate from Xavier Institute of Communications, she specialises in entertainment, food and travel. She also likes to write about sustainability and beauty. When not working, you can catch her reading a book, tending to her plants, cooking or playing an instrument. Read Less

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Find cheap flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo from $105

This is the cheapest one-way flight price found by a kayak user in the last 72 hours by searching for a flight from hong kong to tokyo departing on 7/4. fares are subject to change and may not be available on all flights or dates of travel. click the price to replicate the search for this deal., search hundreds of travel sites at once for deals on flights to tokyo.

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Cheap flight deals from Hong Kong to Tokyo (HKG-TYO)

Flights from hong kong to tokyo - travel insights & trends, get data-powered insights and trends into flights from hong kong to tokyo to help you find the cheapest flights, the best time to fly and much more., what is the cheapest hong kong to tokyo flight route, our data shows that the cheapest route for a one-way flight from hong kong to tokyo cost $133 and was between hong kong and tokyo haneda airport. on average, the best prices are found if you fly this route. the average price for a return flight for this route is $257., what is the cheapest month to fly from hong kong to tokyo, the cheapest month for flights from hong kong to tokyo is september, where tickets cost $354 on average. on the other hand, the most expensive months are december and april, where the average cost of tickets is $615 and $583 respectively., how far in advance should i book a flight from hong kong to tokyo, to get a below average price on the flight from hong kong to tokyo, you should book around 4 weeks before departure. for the absolute cheapest price, our data suggests you should book 88 days before departure., which airlines provide the cheapest flights from hong kong to tokyo, in the last 72 hours, the cheapest one-way ticket from hong kong to tokyo found on kayak was with hk express for $105. hk express proposed a round-trip connection from $217 and air china from $221., which airlines fly most frequently between hong kong and tokyo, hong kong and tokyo are connected by different airlines. the airlines that fly that route the most regularly are hk express (10 flights per day), cathay pacific (8 flights per day), and japan airlines (5 flights per day)., which airlines fly non-stop between hong kong and tokyo, there are 6 airlines that fly nonstop from hong kong to tokyo. they are: ana, cathay pacific, greater bay airlines, hk express, hong kong airlines and japan airlines. the cheapest price of all airlines flying this route was found with greater bay airlines at $150 for a one-way flight. on average, the best prices for this route can be found at hk express., how many flights are there between hong kong and tokyo per day, each day, there are between 30 and 33 nonstop flights that take off from hong kong and land in tokyo, with an average flight time of 4h 24m. the most common departure time is 10:00 am and most flights take off in the morning, while the most flights land at tokyo narita airport. each week, there are 220 flights. the most frequent day of departure is wednesday, when 15% of all weekly flights depart. the fewest flights depart on a tuesday., which cabin class options are there for flights between hong kong and tokyo, there are 4 cabin class options for the route. these are first, business, economy and prem economy. perform a search on kayak to find the latest prices and availability for all cabin fares, which differ across airlines., how long does a flight from hong kong to tokyo take, direct flights cover the 1,805 miles separating hong kong to tokyo in about 4h 10m., what’s the earliest departure time from hong kong to tokyo, early birds can take the earliest flight from hong kong at 1:20 am and will be landing in tokyo at 6:45 am., what’s the latest departure time from hong kong to tokyo, if you prefer to fly at night, the latest flight from hong kong to tokyo jets off at 11:40 pm and lands at 5:00 am., good to know, when to book flights from hong kong to tokyo, faqs for booking flights from hong kong to tokyo, what transport options are available from tokyo airports.

Passengers arriving at Haneda Airport can take the Monorail or train from the stations located inside the airport terminals. Monorail lines 08, 10, and 11 depart from all three terminals, while train Lines 16 and 17 also connect with the city centre from these stations. Train journeys from Haneda usually take around 25min and cost around ¥450 (£2.99). You can also take the train from inside Narita Airport. The KY Line, JY Line, and Sobu Line all depart from the stations located inside all three Narita terminals. This journey usually takes around 1h 30min and costs roughly ¥1,350 (£8.96).

Can I fly non-stop from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

There are a number of airlines that offer frequent direct flights between Hong Kong International Airport and both Tokyo Narita Airport and Tokyo Haneda Airport. When you fly with airlines such as HK Express, Hong Kong Airlines, Japan Airlines, and ANA, you will usually fly direct from Hong Kong Airport to either Haneda or Narita airport. Airlines that offer flights with one layover include Singapore Airlines, Cathay Pacific, Philippine Airlines, Garuda Indonesia, and China Airlines.

Is parking available at Hong Kong International Airport?

There is a range of parking options for passengers at Hong Kong International Airport. Passengers can select short-stay parking, which is situated at Car Park 1 and connected to the Terminal 3 Departures Level. For long-stay parking, passengers can book spaces in Car Parks 4 and 5, which are located near the Arrivals Terminal and a short walk from the Departures entrance.

Is on-site accommodation available at Tokyo airports?

There are a number of convenient hotel options for passengers arriving at either of Tokyo’s main airports. Passengers landing at Narita Airport can stay at the Nine Hours Narita Airport hotel, which is situated inside Terminal 2. You can also stay at the Narita Airport Rest House, which is located just a few minutes’ walk from the airport. There are no on-site hotels at Haneda Airport but there are several hotels very nearby, such as the Royal Park Hotel Tokyo Haneda or the Haneda Excel Hotel Tokyu, which are both just a short walk or drive away.

What complementary services are available at Hong Kong Airport?

Some of the complementary services you'll find at Hong Kong Airport include free showers, a caring corner for the elderly and disabled, prayer rooms, nursing rooms, smoking lounges, and courtesy phones. If you call in advance, the airport offers unaccompanied minor services, meet and greet, and wheelchair services.

Are there on-site hotels at Haneda Airport?

There's an on-site hotel, Royal Park Hotel the Haneda Airport. It's directly connected to the International Terminal, and you can book a Refresh Room for a few hours or a regular hotel room for more extended periods. You can also choose the First Cabin Tokyo Haneda, a budget capsule hotel in Terminal 1.

Which Tokyo airport should I fly into?

If you're looking shorter travel time after the flight from Hong Kong, Haneda Airport is the closest to the city. It will take you approximately 40min, unlike Narita Airport, which could take over an hour to get to Downtown Tokyo. While Narita Airport has five Priority Pass lounges, Haneda Airport doesn't have any.

How do I reach Tokyo city center from Haneda Airport?

You can use a taxi, bus, monorail, or train. The Keikyu Railway train and Tokyo Monorail and the more affordable options. You'll find the monorail on the second floor of the airport International Terminal and the Keikyu Train at Arrivals. The Limousine bus is located at the International Terminal, and the taxi rank at Terminal 3 as well.

What is the cheapest flight from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

In the last 3 days, the lowest price for a flight from Hong Kong to Tokyo was $105 for a one-way ticket and $217 for a round-trip.

Do I need a passport to fly between Hong Kong and Tokyo?

Yes, you’ll need a passport to travel to Tokyo from Hong Kong.

Which airports will I be using when flying from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

Hong Kong is served by only 1 airport and there are 2 airports in Tokyo. You will leave Hong Kong from Hong Kong Intl and you will be arriving in Tokyo at one of these airports: Tokyo Haneda or Tokyo Narita.

Which aircraft models fly most regularly from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

The Airbus A321-100/200 is the aircraft model that flies most regularly on the Hong Kong to Tokyo flight route.

Which airline alliances offer flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

oneworld, and Star Alliance are the airline alliances operating flights between Hong Kong and Tokyo, with oneworld being the most commonly used for this route.

On which days can I fly direct from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

There are nonstop flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo on a daily basis.

Which is the best airline for flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo, ANA or Japan Airlines?

The two airlines most popular with KAYAK users for flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo are ANA and Japan Airlines. With an average price for the route of $651 and an overall rating of 8.4, ANA is the most popular choice. Japan Airlines is also a great choice for the route, with an average price of $668 and an overall rating of 8.3.

How does KAYAK find such low prices on flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

KAYAK is a travel search engine. That means we look across the web to find the best prices we can find for our users. With over 2 billion flight queries processed yearly, we are able to display a variety of prices and options on flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo.

How does KAYAK's flight Price Forecast tool help me choose the right time to buy my flight ticket from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

KAYAK’s flight Price Forecast tool uses historical data to determine whether the price for a flight to Tokyo from Hong Kong is likely to change within 7 days, so travelers know whether to wait or book now.

What is the Hacker Fare option on flights from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

Hacker Fares allow you to combine one-way tickets in order to save you money over a traditional round-trip ticket. You could then fly to Tokyo with an airline and back to Hong Kong with another airline.

What is KAYAK's "flexible dates" feature and why should I care when looking for a flight from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

Sometimes travel dates aren't set in stone. If your preferred travel dates have some wiggle room, flexible dates will show you all the options when flying to Tokyo from Hong Kong up to 3 days before/after your preferred dates. You can then pick the flights that suit you best.

Top tips for finding a cheap flight from Hong Kong to Tokyo

• Looking for a cheap flight? 25% of our users found flights on this route for $157 or less one-way and $279 or less round-trip.
• If you have been planning to travel to Tokyo from Hong Kong, the Hong Kong International Airport (HKG) is about 24 miles away from Downtown Hong Kong. You can book your flight with several airlines, including Singapore Airlines, ANA, XiamenAir, China Airlines, Hong Kong Express, Cathay Pacific, and Philippine Airlines.
• There are two major airports you can fly into, Narita International Airport (NRT) and Haneda International Airport (HND), also known as Tokyo International Airport. Haneda International Airport is about 11 miles away from Downtown Tokyo, while Narita International Airport is a bit further at 41 miles from the city center. Both airports are well-connected to the city by public transport.
• Passengers flying First or Business-Class with HK Express can make use of the Plaza Premium Lounge at Hong Kong International Airport. The lounge is located in Terminal 1 in the West Hall on Departure Level 7 near Gate 60.
• If traveling economy but looking for a nice place to hang out as you wait for your flights at Hong Kong Airport, Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong Airlines, Emirates Airlines, United Airlines, and Qantas Airlines have lounges that allow paid entrance at the door. There are several more lounges, including the Centurion Lounge and Plaza Premium lounges, that also allow access without membership.
• Travelling with children? There are a number of children’s play areas located inside Terminal 1 at Hong Kong International Airport. You can find these play areas on Level 6 near Gates 25 and 41. In total there are seven children's play and TV areas, and a Dream Come True Education Park.
• Currency exchange services are available for arrivals at Tokyo Haneda Airport and Tokyo Narita Airport. You can find currency exchange counters in the International Arrivals Lobby at Haneda Airport. At Narita Airport, currency exchange counters are located in the Terminal 3 Main Building outside Security.
• Self-check-in services are available at Hong Kong International Airport to help you speed up your journey through the Departures area.
• Hong Kong Airport has several unique amenities, including an IMAX theater, an Aviation Discovery Center, golfing at Green Live Air, and a Wellness Spa. You can enjoy some sports at i-Sports then enjoy the Trick Art Installations.
• Hong Kong International Airport is the main hub airport for Cathay Dragon, Cathay Pacific, Hong Kong Express Airways, Hong Kong Airlines, and Air Hong Kong, which is a cargo carrier.

Prefer to fly non-stop from Hong Kong to Tokyo?

Find which airlines fly direct from Hong Kong Intl to Tokyo, which days they fly and book direct flights.

Nonstop departures

Hong Kong Intl to Tokyo

ANA, Air Tahiti Nui, Alaska Airlines, +13 more

ANA, Air Tahiti Nui, +14 more

ANA, Air Canada, Air New Zealand, +15 more

ANA, Air Canada, +16 more

Nonstop returns

Tokyo to Hong Kong Intl

Top 4 airlines serving from hong kong to tokyo.

I like the braised beef., miso soup,, and green tea. Very little choices of hollywood movies. The PA announcement in English was not very clear and very soft. I could hardly hear.

More updated movies & Chinese movies. The food sometimes overcooked. Prefer to have more neat snacks in between than just choose from the menu. Please change the menu every now and then. This is my second time flying within one year and the menu didn’t change at all!

Food is lagging. Very poor choice. Like vending machine fast food.

Please change the menu more often. The beef is not tender, more choice in ice cream flavor. Dessert is not good too.

The Experience was fantastic, it's a quick flight so no entertainment or food. Just a refreshment

Again I paid for an upgrade on my credit card didn’t get it need a refund. . American I not good at gettin in contact for refunds.

l enjoyed the variety of good and drink choices. The flight attendants were very quick and efficient to our needs.

-Bathrooms were regularly checked/maintained. -Food was okay, but the miso soup was good. -Top of my foot got bitten by a bug when I took off my shoes and was only wearing my socks. It was swollen and very itchy for several days.

Truly impressive service in the air. After the main meal, they have a delicious a la carte menu that you can order anytime until 1.5 hrs prior to landing. Flight crew were so pleasant and very efficient. Wish I could fly JAL more often!

Attentive crew, great service with regular rounds of drinks and trash collecting. Only complaint is the food, which was mediocre.

Crew experience was more transnational, seats were so close together (LtoR and FtoB) that it was difficult to enjoy much of anything. When the person in front leaned back, there is no space for me. Sadly it was a flight to be endured not experienced.

My seat was sold off to someone else. Had to wait 9 hours to catch the next filght. Definitely will never use Cathay Pacific again. Bad, very bad airline. will comment on google reviews too.

The coffee in Premium economy and economy is terrible. That's it. Everything else is great

One of the worst flight in business class by qatar airways and I’m no stranger with qatar airways businesses class, I travelled with the extensively in the past 12 years

The aircraft was slightly newer but the food was very bad. Bland and uninteresting. Nothing special at all.

I felt thirsty and asked the flight attendent for water, but no one came for more than half an hour.

The crew were fine. I didn’t enjoy the food at all. I found it unappetising and really had trouble eating it. The comfort level was fine and our return flight is with Cathay Pacific but honestly I probably wouldn’t fly Cathay Pacific again.

Everything went smooth. All flights were on time No changing gates, . No changing flights . It was like a completely different airlines tha n the last time I used Cathay Pacific . The last flight, 2 months ago, I had before this one was from Philippines also . I got changed in Manila and was told it only added 2 hours onto my flight . My 20 hour return trip ended up being 30 hours return with a 10.0 hour layover in New York with no seats anywhere . Everyone was sleeping or sitting on the floor . Unlike the hotel I was given in Manila to wait for this flight home . I never thought I would use Cathay Pacific again . But I did and this time you were great! I should have complained about the flight and layover from Hell a couple months ago. Consider that I am complaining about that august/23 flight now . Thank you got the great flying experience on my way home from philippines .

Everything was good food could be better but ok for economy on my 2nd flight the head ph jack are bad you have to hold pushed in to hear anything but other then that very nice service

Cathay much better than other options Imigration was a total mess on arrival in KL but not Cathay s fault

The crews at check in counter are not professional, they are talking and playing around. Also no entertainment on the plane

2 failed landing attemps before going to Nagoya airport for refueling. After 3 hours of taxiing, we still needed 3 attemps before a succeeded landing (after the 5th attempt finally!). In total, 11 hours inside the plane instead of 4h30, and with only a crappy piece of bread to feed us. A shame.

Captain smooth landing, Crew efficient and helpful. We saw Mt Fuji from the plane. Thanks.

On time and smooth flight from San Juan direct to Sint Maarten.

Just to be expected on a budget airline. Since all the flights were either late on the evening it would help to offer some food for purchase Since you tourists cannot buy decent food withoit local vaccination record in hong Kong this would really to help Using phone to submit electronic data is great but for the elderly this is a hassle

Flight cancelled without notidication, had to book an emergency replacement flight at the counter

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Hong Kongers flock to Japan for 'revenge travel'

An estimated 10,000 visited in just a week after Tokyo eased travel curbs

HONG KONG -- Japan has again become a popular travel destination among Hong Kongers after the government on Oct. 11 eased its COVID-related travel curbs and started accepting independent tourism, while Hong Kong also has scrapped its hotel quarantines for those arriving.

With many people unable to go out of the territory for nearly three years due to the COVID-19 pandemic, Japan could benefit from Hong Kongers' "revenge travel."

Japan's Ghibli Park opens with expected economic impact of $324m

Three nights and three views of tourism in japan, recalling steve jobs' love affair with kyoto, ana says international flights will hit pre-covid level in 2024, japan hotel prices surge in hot spots as travel subsidies roll out, thailand, singapore tourists jump in line as japan opens borders, singapore's scoot counts on pikachu jet for recovery, tears and relief as japan fully reopens to foreign travelers, shanghai disney resort locks crowds inside covid-shut park, tokyo on high alert over halloween crowd after seoul tragedy, hong kong eyes looser crypto rules in digital-asset hub bid, latest on travel & leisure, japan-south korea travelers help incheon air traffic hit pre-covid levels, japan foreign tourists top 3m in march, fueling record spending boom, visitors to asean hit 100m in 2023, 70% of pre-covid level, sponsored content, about sponsored content this content was commissioned by nikkei's global business bureau..

Nikkei Asian Review, now known as Nikkei Asia, will be the voice of the Asian Century.

Celebrate our next chapter Free access for everyone - Sep. 30

• Tokyo Cheapo (繁體中文)

Japan to Hong Kong: The Ultimate Short-Trip Destination

With so many low-cost carriers (LCCs) popping up both in Japan and Hong Kong, flying between the two places has never been easier.

Hong Kong is increasingly getting better connected with Japan, with flights to and from major cities like Tokyo, Osaka and Fukuoka , smaller cities like Yonago and Takamatsu, and even remote islands like Miyako-jima and Ishigaki-jima .

Getting there is fast enough, with flight times of roughly 2–3 hours from southern Japan, 4–5 hours from Tokyo, and under six hours from Hokkaido.

Hong Kong is a huge contrast to Japan—chaotic, noisy, and a bit rough around the edges, but offers an exciting trip to one of the most vibrant and unforgettable destinations in Asia.

Flying from Japan to Hong Kong: Which airline to choose?

By far the airline with the most budget-friendly prices and best variety of destinations is Hong Kong Express , with flights to Fukuoka, Hiroshima, Ishigaki, Kagoshima, Kumamoto, Nagasaki, Nagoya, Osaka, Miyako, Takamatsu, and, of course, Tokyo (both Haneda and Narita).

Hong Kong Airlines flies to Tokyo, Sapporo, Osaka, Okayama, Kagoshima, Okinawa and Yonago.

Flagship carrier Cathay Pacific’s list of destinations include Tokyo, Sapporo, Osaka, Nagoya, Fukuoka, and Komatsu.

On the Japanese side, national carriers JAL and ANA both have flights between Hong Kong and Tokyo, while Jetstar Japan’s only direct flight to Hong Kong is from Tokyo.

If you happen to live in Osaka, LCC Peach is your best bet, as they have direct flights from KIX to to Hong Kong at very reasonable prices—but they tend to fly on the backside of the clock, as pilots like to say.

How long to stay in Hong Kong

To really see and experience the essence of the ‘Fragrant Harbour’, you need at least four days or more, though it is possible to just go for a weekend if you happen to find a really cheap flight.

Hong Kong might be small, but there’s a lot to do. There’s awesome attractions, world class museums, bustling night markets, gorgeous mountain hikes, long sandy beaches, and quaint islands, to name just a few. Check out our sister site Hong Kong Cheapo to help build your itinerary.

When to visit Hong Kong

Summertime is low season, due to the intense heat and humidity (which, if you live in Japan, you already are all too familiar with). In addition, typhoon season is from May until about November, with lots of rain and the potential for major storms . Winters are cool, with temperatures rarely dipping below 10°C, which makes winter a good time to enjoy Hong Kong’s hikes.

With that in mind, the truly “best” time to go to Hong Kong is between December and May, when spring has sprung, skies are clear, and the temperature is perfect for sightseeing.

Where to stay in Hong Kong

Most people stay in the top two districts—Hong Kong Island and Kowloon—which are intersected by Victoria Harbour. Both sides are very different, with the central business district on Hong Kong Island having a more ‘expat’ or Western feel, while the busy streets and markets of Kowloon have a more distinctly local personality.

Either way, you’ll be bouncing between the two sides easily on Hong Kong’s fast, efficient, and cheap Mass Transit Railway (MTR), which connects most of Hong Kong.

Hotels here are notoriously small and expensive, but you can find cheap guest houses and even Japanese-style capsule hotels and hostels with dormitories. Airbnb is very popular in Hong Kong and will give you an insight into Hong Kong living.

What to see and do in Hong Kong

Here’s a short list of some of the must-sees in Hong Kong:

Victoria Peak – The highest mountain on Hong Kong Island, with a huge observation deck and unbelievable views all around Peak Tram – The best way to get to Victoria Peak is on a historic funicular cable car dating back to 1881 Tsim Sha Tsui Promenade – Stroll along the waterfront of Victoria Harbour to take in Hong Kong’s skyline Star Ferry – Considered a national treasure, crossing the harbour by Star Ferry is an unforgettable ride Big Buddha – The Tian Tan ‘Big Buddha’ looks down on the green mountains of Lantau Island, plus there’s an awesome cable car ride Temple Street Night Market – Get ready to haggle at this bustling market which comes alive every night, taking up multiple city blocks Happy Valley Racecourse – Horse racing right in the middle of the city with a festive atmosphere Ocean Park – A super fun marine-themed theme park with rollercoasters, aquariums, and rides Hong Kong Disneyland – Smaller than Tokyo Disney, but packed with fun Hong Kong Museums – With topics like history, art, medicine and even tea, there’s always a great museum to see, usually for free

What to eat in Hong Kong

Well where to start? There’s a huge variety of food in Hong Kong, from humble street vendors to Michelin-starred restaurants , and cuisines from all over the world. That said, there are a few quintessential dishes you need to try:

Dim sum – Baskets full of love and yumminess shared amongst family and friends. Egg waffles – You’ll smell them before you see them as they get in a sidewalk shop. Street snacks – Ignore the skewers of intestines and instead have tiny fish dumplings siu mai on a stick or curry fish balls. Herbal tea – Anything this bitter must be good for you, right? Wonton soup – Cheap and delicious comfort food, with or without noodles. Char siu – BBQ pork, soft and juicy; just look for the big window with roasted duck hanging up. Egg tarts – Flaky, soft, and absolutely delicious. Seafood – Take a day trip to tiny islands to enjoy fresh seafood by the sea. Beggar’s chicken – They give you a small hammer, you give the clay-baked pod a good whack to get the chicken inside. Peking duck – Thinly sliced duck, on thinly sliced pancakes.

Where to drink

Much like Japan, drinking alcohol in public is totally acceptable in Hong Kong—though not on the MTR or buses. You can find beer, coolers and wine being sold at every convenience store and supermarket, as well as many street vendors.

One of the most famous bar zones is Lan Kwai Fong in Central , which on a Friday night closes the street to cars to become a pedestrian zone where people spill from the bars out into the streets. The drinks don’t come cheap though—but thankfully there’s a 7-11 in Lan Kwai Fong where the true cheapos like to hang out.

Wan Chai is another nightlife district, with sleazier bars, loud live music, and clubs that stay open till late.

Many skyscrapers have bars with truly awesome views, such as Felix, Eyebar, and Aqua Spirit in Tsim Sha Tsui. Open air rooftop patios are also popular, like Sevva in Central, or Skye in Causeway Bay. The highest bar in Hong Kong is Ozone, on the 118th floor of the International Commerce Centre (yes, 118th!).

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‘The old days are no more’: Hong Kong goes quiet as security laws tighten their grip

NGOs and bookshops are closing, media organisations are leaving and democracy activists are on trial

“I deas are bulletproof”. Three words , stamped out in multicolour tiles above a doorway, represented one of the last vestiges of Hong Kong’s once vibrant literary spaces. On 31 March, Mount Zero, a beloved independent bookstore in Hong Kong, closed its doors for the final time. Hundreds of Hongkongers came to say goodbye.

The bookshop, which opened in 2018, took its slogan from the 2005 film V for Vendetta; the eponymous antihero’s Guy Fawkes mask occasionally appeared during Hong Kong’s pro-democracy protests.

Mount Zero’s closure, which was announced after what the owner said was repeated inspections from the authorities, came as Hongkongers are coming to terms with a new reality of life with not one but two national security laws, which critics say are being used to crush dissent.

“People are quickly adjusting to the idea that the old days of public expression are no more,” says Bao Pu, the founder of New Century Press, a publishing house.

The pro-democracy protests that rocked Hong Kong in 2019 and 2020 feel like an increasingly distant memory. Where 2 million people once flooded the streets to oppose the government’s plans to establish closer links with mainland China, an individual can now be jailed for wearing a “seditious” T-shirt.

The quietening is largely because of a national security law that Beijing imposed on Hong Kong in June 2020. Authorities say the law was necessary to restore stability; critics say the vaguely worded crimes of secession, subversion, terrorism and collusion with foreign forces effectively criminalise dissent.

Considering the millions of people who took to the streets in 2019 and 2020, relatively few people have actually been arrested under the law: 292 as of 31 January .

“That is intentional,” says Jeffrey Wasserstrom, a professor of Chinese history at the University of California, Irvine, and author of Vigil: Hong Kong on the Brink. More than 800 people have been arrested for rioting, while nearly 300 people have been targeted using a colonial-era sedition law. Protesters have been targeted with more than 100 different types of offences. “It is hard for people to realise how much things have changed when you see these divided-up numbers,” Wasserstrom says.

And now the authorities have another tool in their arsenal: Article 23 , a homegrown national security law that covers newly defined acts of treason, espionage, theft of state secrets, sedition and foreign interference.

The government has been on the offensive in condemning what it calls “scaremongering” about the new legislation. A spokesperson said it “only targets an extremely small minority of people who endanger national security”.

The legislation has been decades in the making. It comes from a provision in Hong Kong’s 1997 Basic Law. But a previous attempt to implement it in 2003 prompted 500,000 people to protest, causing the bill to be shelved. In 2024, the streets were silent.

“The children of the [2003] protesters are now going to suffer through what their parents fought against,” says Mark Sabah, director of the Committee for Freedom in Hong Kong Foundation.

Both of those generations have been swept up in a mass trial of pro-democracy figures who are waiting – most of them in jail cells – for judges hand-picked by the chief executive to decide their guilt or innocence. The prosecution of the Hong Kong 47, as they’ve come to be known, includes well-known figures such as Joshua Wong and Benny Tai and has been extensively criticised by foreign governments, human rights groups and the defendants’ lawyers.

First arrested in 2020, they were accused of plotting to bring down the government by holding informal pre-election primaries. The formal charge is “conspiracy to subvert state power”. The arrests themselves were labelled politically motivated.

The 10-month trial ended in December. A verdict would normally be expected within six months, but given the complexity and size of the proceedings – 16 of the 47 pleaded not guilty, with the remainder awaiting sentencing – many expect it to be delayed. The accused have already spent more than 1,000 days behind bars and face sentences of up to life in prison.

And while observers wait for that verdict, there are also concerns about the ongoing trial of Jimmy Lai, a British citizen and former medial mogul who has been detained since December 2020. His trial for colluding with foreign forces is expected to end in May, having been plagued by accusations that it is politically motivated and that one of the witnesses was tortured. The 76-year-old faces spending the rest of his life in prison.

Outside the courts, the government is keen to give the impression that life continues as normal. There are dozens of major events planned for the first half of this year, a lineup the government says will attract locals and tourists to “participate and experience Hong Kong’s unique glamour”. More than 75,000 people attended this year’s Art Basel, according to its organisers, despite calls to boycott the art fair because of concerns about censorship.

And despite the widespread feeling among activists that Hong Kong is becoming like any other Chinese city, differences remain. The territory still has an open internet. It is still possible to buy materials that are banned in mainland China , although the number of vendors is dwindling. Bao’s New Century Press recently published a biography of a senior Chinese Communist party official who played an important role in the Cultural Revolution. A Chinese buyer despaired when the book was confiscated on three separate occasions as he tried to take it into the mainland.

“And so far nobody has kidnapped me,” Bao jokes. “Not yet.”

But the chipping away of civil society continues. On 10 April, a representative from the NGO Reporters Without Borders was detained for several hours at Hong Kong International airport and then deported, as she attempted to travel to the city to monitor Lai’s trial. In March, Radio Free Asia, a US-funded media outlet, closed its Hong Kong bureau , citing fears for staff safety because of Article 23. A journalist at the South China Morning Post went to Beijing in October for a defence conference and disappeared . At least 90 NGOs and 22 media groups have closed since the 2020 national security law, according to the Centre for Asian Law at Georgetown University.

“If we really want Hong Kong to go back to a prosperous, safe and free city, I think we need to have a rapprochement, a dialogue with some people,” says Emily Lau, a veteran pro-democracy politician and former legislator. “Most people here accept that we are part of China. They’re not going to use violence to overthrow the government, but they would like the freedom to express their views … like they have been doing for decades.”

On 11 April, Mount Zero posted photographs of its final day on Instagram. “People came one after another, a few young people asking each other, what exactly are we going to do?” the caption reads. “No one knew the specific answer.”

Additional research by Chi Hui Lin

• Asia Pacific
• Freedom of speech

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