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Travel Guide To Monaco

Tucked inside the Maritime Alps between the French and Italian Riviera on the Mediterranean Sea, Monaco has long been associated with glamour and exclusivity, and has price tags to match, but it also makes an ideal summer weekend escape. Prince Albert II has promised to make Monaco cleaner and greener, and the principality is on the way to improving its image. Earnings from its famous casino and other gambling outlets now account for only four per cent of Monaco's income and they have been overtaken by money generated by luxury hotels, conferences, multi-million-pound yachts in the harbour, and of course, the annual Grand Prix, when crowds descend to catch a glimpse of the race and drivers, and hotel rooms are booked months in advance.

Where to stay in Monaco

COLUMBUS MONACO

23 avenue des Papalins, Monte Carlo (00 377 92 05 90 00; www.columbushotels.com ). Contemporary, reasonably priced hotel in Monte Carlo, co-financed by racing driver David Coulthard and Ken McCulloch, who created the Malmaison group of hotels. Unfussy interiors by Amanda Rosa. £££

HOTEL DE FRANCE

6 rue de la Turbie, Monte Carlo (00 377 93 30 24 64; www.monte-carlo.mc/france). This 26-room hotel has a more contemporary feel than its old-fashioned counterparts. It is set just back from the port: handy for restaurants, bars and the produce market of La Condamine. The cheerfully decorated bedrooms are off small hallways, separate from the central staircase, so it's exceptionally quiet. Patisserie and pots of coffee are served in the delightful breakfast room, which is frescoed with scenes of the sea. £

HOTEL HERMITAGE

Square Beaumarchais, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 48 12; www.montecarloresort.com ). Tucked away behind Casino de Monte-Carlo, surrounded by designer shops. The Hermitage attracts assorted well-heeled guests, including aristocrats and celebrities such as Tom Jones. There are 325 rooms and suites, and eight apartments, recently refurbished mostly in a gloriously traditional style. Gastronomic seafood restaurant Le Vistamar has a fantastic reputation and panoramic views. Immaculate service and old-school, Monte-Carlo glamour at its best. £££

HOTEL METROPOLE

4 avenue de la Madone, Monte Carlo (00 377 93 15 15 15; www.metropole.com ). Interior designer Jacques Garcia has transformed the vast lobby into a cosy lounge and restaurant with his trademark jumble of styles: Renaissance, Egyptian and Napoleon. The 146 bedrooms are tastefully decorated in soft creams, with shiny orange taffeta curtains and a few Corinthian columns thrown in for effect. The heated outdoor pool has a sexy, summer-in-the-city charm, but the main attraction is the open-plan restaurant, headed by star chefs Joel Robuchon and Christophe Cussac. Here, a dozen chefs create exquisite portions of Mediterranean dishes. There is also an ultra-modern ESPA spa with 13 treatment rooms and VIP suites. The hotel was featured in our Gold List 2008 .

MONTE CARLO BAY HOTEL & RESORT

40 avenue Princess Grace, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 25 25; www.montecarlobay.com ). Thanks to its relaxed and surprisingly chic atmosphere, the 334-room Monte Carlo Bay Hotel & Resort is popular with families and young professionals alike. A self-contained, Mediterranean-style village, it is packed with recreational and gastronomic choices: a casino; souvenir and sportswear boutiques; a Cinq Mondes spa; a small gym; five restaurants in season; a private dock and helipad; and two swimming pools, one an artificial sand-bottom lagoon surrounded by palms and botanical gardens.

MONTE CARLO BEACH

Avenue Princesse Grace Roqubrune-Cap-Martin, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 25; www.monte-carlo-beach ). A landmark since the 1920s, the seaside Monte carlo Beach hotel is glitzy again after a makeover from Parisian design guru India Mahdavi. ££££

1 bis rue Grimaldi, Monte Carlo (00 377 9797 51 51; www. nihotel.com ). Dine on your own terrace with a view of the superyachts at the 17-room NI Hôtel. This sexy new boutique hotel has a flashy lounge bar, sleek grey-and-white rooms and duplex suites with Perspex spiral stairs and hi-tech kitchens. £££

PORT PALACE

7 avenue John F Kennedy, Monte Carlo (00 377 97 97 90 00; www.steinhotels.com ). This hotel is right on the marina, looking out over all the superyachts to the old town and Grimaldi Palace beyond. Unpretentious contemporary-chic created by chief Hermès designer Leila Menchari. The hotel draws a young European crowd, and locals enjoying the Fleur de Peau spa. There are 50 rooms and suites, all with harbour views and Jacuzzis or private hammams. The sixth-floor Mandarine restaurant serves fresh, quirky food: Lapsang-tea-smoked beef with green papaya salad and fresh peppercorn sauce. Head there in May and you can watch the Monaco Grand Prix from its terrace. ££££

Where to eat out in Monaco

BAR BOEUF & CO Monte Carlo Bay Hotel and Resort, 26, avenue Princesse Grace, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 71 71; www.alain-ducasse.com ). Sea bass and beef specialties. Smart dining spot presided over by legendary chef Alain Ducasse.

LE VISTAMAR Hôtel Hermitage, Square Beaumarchais, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 98 98; www.montecarloresort.com ). Decorated in a nautical theme, this restaurant specializes in seafood. Dine on the terrace in the summer and in the atrium during the winter.

LOUIS XV Hôtel de Paris, Place du Casino, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 88 64; www.alain-ducasse.com ). The three-Michelin-star Grande Dame of fine dining, from chef Alain Ducasse. Prices to match: Menu 'Pour les gourmets' are all over €200.

MAYA BAY LOUNGE Le Roccabella, 24 Avenue Princesse Grace, Monte Carlo (00 377 97 70 74 67; www.mayabay.mc ). Serves exquisite Japanese and Thai dishes amid jungle décor.

LA NOTE BLEUE Plage du Larvotto, avenue Princesse Grace, Monte Carlo (00 377 93 500502, www.lanotebleue.mc ). Soothing lounge music and a live jazz band creates a relaxed chill-out zone on Larvotto beach, Monaco's free sandy beach. Cushioned chairs on the beach and helpful staff create a blissfully casual atmosphere for lazy Sunday afternoons of eating, sipping cocktails and people-watching. Families are welcome - the children's play area has drawing materials.

SEA LOUNGE Avenue Princesse Grace, Roquebrune-Cap Martin, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 065 454, www.montecarloresort.com ). This cool lounge on a stretch of Monagasque beach one of the most glamorous of the Riviera's beach bars. Off-white sofas sit on soft white sand under canvas awnings, whilst roses, peonies and gerberas float in watery pools. Ambient music provides the soundtrack for daytime lounging, and is pumped up by the DJ as dusk falls. Champagne cocktails and small dishes of sushi, sashimi and fusion food are served by handsome staff.

What to see in Monaco

Things to do in monaco.

By Steve King

By Abigail Malbon

By Sarah James

By Marti Buckley

FORMULA 1 GRAND PRIX ( www.acm.mc ). On the 14th of April 1929, Prince Pierre inaugurated the 1st Monaco Grand Prix, with a lap of honour in a Torpedo Voisin driven by Charles Faroux, the course director. There were 16 cars on the starting grid, positions drawn by lots: 8 Bugattis, 3 Alfa Romeos, 2 Maseratis, 1 Licorne and 1 Mercedes SSK. Nowadays, the Automobile Club of Monaco organizes the race. There are more than 3,000 seats available for sale on the circuit. For those on a budget, lawn spaces are available on the hillside grounds just below the Palace.

MONTE CARLO CASINO Place du Casino, Monte Carlo ( www.montecarlocasions.com ). Open daily. No visit to Monaco is complete without seeing the casino. The atrium is paved in marble and surrounded by onyx columns. The gaming rooms, where you can play Black Jack, Craps and English Roulette, feature stained glass windows, sculptures, allegorical paintings and bronze lamps. There is also regular evening entertainment.

MONTE CARLO OPERA Place du Casino, Monte Carlo (00 377 98 06 28 28; www.opera.mc ). At the end of the nineteenth century, architect Charles Garnier, responsible for the Paris Opera House, was hired to build Monaco's Opera House. It has since hosted Tamagno, Melba, Caruso, Chaliapine, Garden, Schipa, Dalla Rizza, Gigli, Lubin, Muzio, Thill, and Pons.

OCEANOGRAPHIC MUSEUM Avenue St-Martin, Monte Carlo (00 377 93 15 36 00; www.oceano.mc ). A famous institute of research, headed by Jacques Cousteau for many years.

ROYAL PALACE TOURS ( www.palais.mc ). The Royal Palace of Monaco is a private residence, whose origins date back to the XIII century, but the Grands Appartements are open to the public for much of the year. Make sure you see the private vintage car collection of Prince Rainier III.

How to get to Monaco

AIRPORT Nice Côte d'Azur airport ( www.nice.aeroport.fr ) is the most convenient airport for the Côte d'Azur. It is located 7km from the centre of Nice and 13.7 miles from Monaco. It's a seven-minute flight by helicopter, there are regularly-scheduled services. Buses ( www.cam.mc ) and trains ( www.monaco-gare.com ) also operate between Nice and Monaco. Trains take around 25 minutes from Nice. AIRLINES FROM THE UK British Airways (0844 493 0787; www.britishairways.com ), Air France (0871 66 33 777; www.airfrance.com ), British Midland (0844 8484 888; www.flybmi.com ) and easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyjet.com ) all offer direct flights to Nice.

Tourist information for Monaco

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Three Monaco hotels named in the prestigious Condé Nast Traveler list!

In excellent news for the staff of the Hôtel Métropole Monte-Carlo, for the sixth successive year, the 125-room luxury hotel in the heart of the Principality has been named in the top 10 of the Readers’ Choice Awards 2022, whish lists the finest hotels in France (excluding Paris) and Monaco.  Its well-deserved 7th place is a special honour, since the rankings are voted for directly by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler, underlining their affinity for the stunning Belle Epoque establishment.

Monte-Carlo Société des Bains de Mer has also earned plaudits from the international magazine's readership. Both the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, the world-famous luxury hotel on the Place du Casino which dates from 1864,  and the nearby Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo also proved popular with Condé Nast readers. Nicknamed the "Hotel of Connoisseurs", the Hôtel Hermitage offers an elegant and peaceful Belle Epoque setting overlooking Port Hercule at the Mediterranean and, like its iconic sister venue the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, was named in the top 20 of the Condé Nast Traveler rankings!

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The best spots to stay and see for a weekend trip to Monaco

By Jade Simon

Nestled between France and Italy, Monaco is a destination bathed in fantasies whose skyline we seem to know, without even having set foot there. Many famous images come to mind at the thought of Monaco- Helmut Newton , and his blondes in stiletto heels posing from atop of the Monte-Carlo Beach diving board, the Royal family's joys and tragedies, and Karl Lagerfeld who bought La Vigie , plus the many yachts and wellness spas. Here, we bring you all of the hotels not to be missed for a memorable weekend by the Mediterranean.

L'Hermitage

Perched high atop the mountains of Monte-Carlo is L'Hermitage, the first spot on the list of the most beautiful hotels in Monaco. Facing the sea, the hotel's plush decor is the work of interior designer Pierre Yves Rochon . Here you can enjoy a gourmet on-site breakfast under a stunning glass dome created by Gustave Eiffel , treatment at the Thermes Marin spa, lunch on the terrace of the Vistamar. Then head out for an afternoon of shopping in the surrounding street shops, before returning back for a devastating view, surrounded by vintage paintings and luxurious furniture in azure hues.

l'Hermitage hotel in Monaco

L'Hôtel de Paris

If l'Hermitage attracts conservative guests, the Hôtel de Paris has the opposite reputation, magnetizing a more colorful crowd. Entirely renovated by architects Richard Martinet and Gabriel Viora , the hotel is dressed in contemporary decorations, including a large atrium reminiscent of Miami, impeccably designed rooms dressed in white Calacatta marble, and large terraces facing the royal palace. Guests can also have access to the Spa of the Thermes de Monte-Carlo , enjoy a panoramic restaurant ( Le Grill ) for dinner and brunch, and last but not least, dine at Le Louis XV , a three-star restaurant by Alain Ducasse . All this just a stone's throw from the Casino de Monte-Carlo.

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The Prince Rainier III suite at l'Hôtel de Paris

Open exclusively during summer, the Monte Carlo Beach hotel still gives access to its club and restaurant in autumn. Named Le Deck and plunging onto the lagoon-colored swimming pool, it allows visitors to have lunch in the sun, facing the sparkling Mediterranean. On the menu? Grilled fish, crustaceans, a burrata, salads from Nice, and other tasty transalpine recipes.

View from Le Deck restaurant at the Monte-Carlo Beach Club

Les Thermes Marins de Monte-Carlo  

Adjacent to the massive moored yachts and easily accessible from the Hôtel de Paris, l' Hermitage , and the Thermes Marins, this sprawling spa stretched 6600m2, and offers essential oil massages, La Prairie facials, and cryotherapy, which has positive effects on physical and mental fatigue and muscle pain. As an added bonus, you can visit L'Hirondelle restaurant which serves only healthy and vegetable-based recipes.

Les Thermes in Monte Carlo

Part of the famous Monegasque club Jimmy'z , Coya offers a lively and authentic Peruvian atmosphere. Covered in green plants and South American fabrics, the restaurant, run by chef Fabrizio Fossati, captivates guests with its cheerful atmosphere and Peruvian specialties. At the bar, visitors can sip a spicy margarita, accompanied by house guacamole before taking a seat at the table. Our recommendations? To share-the ceviche, gourmet tacos, tiraditos, prawns skewers, skilfully-seasoned fish in casseroles all in the spotlight at this wonderful restaurant.

Coya in Monaco

Le Musée Océanographique

On the edge of the cliffs, you can visit the Musée Océanographique of Monaco. Inspired by his love of the ocean's floor, the museum was founded in 1889 by Prince Albert I. Here you will discover an anthology of exotic fish, sharks, coral, and turtles. The museum has a sincere desire to educate, preserve, and rehabilitate oceanic species and hopes to inspire the same in visitors.

Musée Océanographique in Monaco

Monte-Carlo Bay

The Monte-Carlo Bay hotel, painted in powder-pink, sits just at the edge of the Mediterranean and is famous for two reasons. The film L'Arnacoeur was shot here, and secondly, there is a natural lagoon with a sandy bottom to swim in. Bordered by lush plants and palm trees, this hotel hosts an unmissable brunch service where you can taste a gargantuan menu complete with seafood platters, seasonal salads, tartars, crispy pizzas, fish, and homemade pancakes, all accompanied by champagne.

Monte-Carlo Bay hotel

Villa La Vigie

Located on the heights of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, La Vigie is one of the most iconic places in Monaco. Bought and inhabited by Karl Lagerfeld , it can be rented out for events or long vacation stays.

La Villa La Vigie at the dessus in Monte Carlo Beach

Casino de Monte-Carlo

It's impossible to visit Monaco without taking a trip to the Casino de Monte-Carlo. Behind its Belle Epoque facade, this gambling-paradise has been loved for decades by the most unrelenting of gamblers. When you enter, first this to do once in the lobby of the Hotel de Paris is to touch the paw of the equestrian statue of Louis XIV. It brings good luck! 

Casino de Monte Carlo

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How Milind Soman and his family explore the world on foot

By Diya Kohli

The Soman family unit comprises three generations of runners—84-year-old Usha Soman, 58-year-old Milind, and his 32-year-old wife Ankita. Together, they have made their way across countries, completing marathons, inspiring people, and adding to the tribe of runners. Their perspective on fitness, travel and life is shaped via their unique experiences which is chronicled in a brand new book, Keep Moving published by Juggernaut Books and written by the Soman family along with writer Roopa Pai. Places, people and personal narratives intersect with the broader scope of history and a life lived on the move. From Usha Soman’s childhood in a pre-independence era Bombay to her adventures as a young wife in Glasgow of the 1960s to Ankita’s childhood spent in North Lakhimpur, Assam in the 1990s, these are stories of two women separated by nearly 50 years, navigating similar journeys of coming into their own and finding equilibrium between mind and body. And then there is Milind Soman—actor, fashion icon, and fitness enthusiast—who has carved a new niche for himself in nearly every decade of his life from his youth spent training as a competitive swimmer and thereafter transitioning to modelling, acting, and fitness and becoming a pin-up for all ages. This is the story of three generations of runners who live together and celebrate life’s turns by a quick jaunt in the great outdoors. We spoke to the Somans on life, travel, and their enduring love for Shivaji Park in Mumbai. Edited excerpts from the interview:

Milind and Ankita at the Sydney Marathon

Mrs Soman, you moved back to India and settled into Shivaji Park; Ankita, this is the neighbourhood you inherited after your marriage, and Milind this is the place where you began your journey as a swimmer. Tell us a little bit about this specific address and what it means for all of you.

Usha Soman: This was the same Shivaji Park apartment my father-in-law rented in the 1940s. This was where I lived as a young bride in the 1960s and also where I returned to with my family in 1972. I couldn’t find a reason to move anywhere else.

Milind: This is one of the few areas in Mumbai where there is a park, a beach, a swimming pool, which is actually unusual for any other part of the city as well as the country. Swimming pools in India were very, very rare in the 1970s and we had a 50-metre pool, one minute away from where we live. The park was considered one of the birthplaces of Indian cricket [with the eight cricket clubs and the erstwhile training ground of cricketers like Sachin Tendulkar and Vinod Kambli among others]. This neighbourhood is a bastion of Maharashtrian cultural identity and all of these together make it a very interesting place to call home. And we have continued to live here over the years because everything that you need to have a healthy lifestyle, is right next door for us.

Ankita: I moved to Mumbai after I got married, a city I had no plans to ever live in because it's so crowded and I don't like crowded places. However moving to this house in Shivaji Park was fantastic because it was a window into Maharashtrian culture. I also learnt the language because of this place. There is a strong sense of community because of the park and a sense of a life lived outdoors. I see people in their 70s and 80s (including my mother-in-law), all just walking around the park, chatting. I myself just head to the park at any time of the day when I feel like a run, and it is this safe space which feels like home. For me, this is Mumbai in a nutshell.

Tell us about how you've experienced places on foot, running and walking across cities of the world and how does the perspective change from this on ground vantage point?

Ankita: Milind and I do this very often. We really like to explore the city through a run, rather than just going there and shopping or eating our way through it. Recently, we had gone to Paris, and we ran the Paris Marathon. Thereafter, we ran onwards to Nice, and then to Monte Carlo in Monaco. We got to see the entire French Riviera and it was beautiful. We have run from Colombo to Unawatuna. We ran from Guwahati to Cherrapunji. Everybody should experience cities via runs whether it's a marathon, a half marathon, or even a small run through the neighbourhood you are living in. In my opinion, that is a way you get to see and know a city and its roads.

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Milind: I can tell you about Mumbai where I have grown up and lived my entire adult life. In your car you are in your own little bubble. When you are on foot, you realise how crowded the city is as you're dealing with pedestrians, traffic, garbage, dogs, cows and everything one can imagine. That to me is the real city. You can really feel its pulse and its smell and there is something almost spiritual about it.

Milind and Ankita

As runners you often experience places in the early mornings. What is this like?

Ankita: The way a city wakes up is such a beautiful sight. There are things like the newspapers being delivered, the smell of coffee especially in Europe and cafes with their freshly baked breads being set out. You get to see small food establishments opening and monuments without the crowds…

Milind: Runners are usually out early in the morning because they want to avoid the traffic. And so we see the city at a very quiet time. The weather is probably better than at other times of day. We often travel to cities that are very popular and overcrowded like Rome, Paris, or London. And when you explore these places in the early hours, you realise how old they are, and at this time of day, they feel untouched by the time that has passed.

Tell us some of your favourite places that you have encountered on your runs and walks

Milind: Greece is where Ankita ran her first marathon, which was the original route of the run from Marathon to Athens. So that was special. I have been running in Africa, South America, Europe, and America. We also run a lot in Lonavala as we have a small house there. Our northeast run to Cherrapunji was amazing.

Usha: The Sandakphu walk from Darjeeling. It was about 50-55 kilometres at 12,000 feet. We did that during the pandemic and the last day was 21 kilometres which took me eight or nine hours to walk. But I finished it.

Milind at the Mumbai Marathon 2024

Mrs. Soman, you become an icon for the video in which you joined Milind on The Great India run barefoot and in a sari. Tell us about that.

Usha Soman: I don’t normally run. I walk and that video was just an off-chance. That day was beautiful and Milind was running near Thane and I felt like running with him for a short distance and so I did. I took off my footwear for comfort and well, I always wear a sari…so it was just a natural moment and that is when the video happened. And after that many younger people came up to me and said that they also wanted to run and be as fit as me. And I simply say, ‘Start now and you will be fit enough by the time you reach my age’.

Mrs Soman cycling in Goa

Where are you all travelling to next?

Milind: Ankita and I are going for The Comrades Marathon in South Africa. This 88-km ultramarathon is the oldest and biggest in the world and the second-largest contingent for it is from India, so we are very excited.

Usha Soman: My next trip is a walking holiday in Jibhi in Himachal Pradesh with my three daughters.

For more details on the book, see here

Keep Moving book cover

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Bad Bunny Just Took Over Vogue World 2024 in Paris

By Hannah Jackson

It’s Bad Bunny ’s (Vogue) world, and we’re all just living in it.

Ahead of Vogue World 2024 in Paris, rumors began to swirl that Bad Bunny—who co-chaired the 2024 Met Gala —would make an appearance. And, lo! The superstar singer graced us with not one but three of his biggest hits in the latter part of the show.

Bad Bunny took over the Place Vendôme during the 1990s tribute to football, performing his bop “Monaco.” Then, singing “Vou 787,” he provided the foot-tapping soundtrack for runway turns from Venus and Serena Williams, who helped celebrate tennis and 2000s fashion. For the 2010s, breakdancers defied gravity to “Tití Me Preguntó.”

Never one to be overshadowed—even by a century-spanning fashion show—Bad Bunny modeled some spectacular suiting for his performance. He wore a gray pinstripe, double-breasted suit with statement padded shoulders from Pressiat. He accessorized with cherry red cowboy boots, yellow-lens sunglasses with thick black frames, and three diamond-encrusted chains from Messika layered on his neck.

There was jaw-dropping fashion throughout Vogue World 2024—but Bad Bunny still managed to command the Place Vendôme.

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For One Night Only, Paris Is Vogue’s (Disney)World

Fashion met fencers and Bad Bunny on Place Vendôme. Enter the era of haute kitsch!

By Vanessa Friedman

Reporting from Paris

On Sunday evening, in honor of International Olympic Day and just before the couture shows began, Anna Wintour, the editor of American Vogue and global chief content director of Condé Nast, flexed her muscles.

Metaphorically speaking, of course.

Literally speaking, she shut down Place Vendôme — the gilded center of high jewelry brands in Paris and home of the Ritz hotel — for the third edition of Vogue World, the fashiontainment extravaganza she introduced in 2022 as a cousin to the Met Gala and as a potential path forward (and revenue stream) in the face of glossy magazines’ decline. Imagine P.T. Barnum meeting Florenz Ziegfeld and together they hatch a fashion show, and you’ll get the idea.

Like the Met Gala, Vogue World, which was previously held in New York and London , is a live expression of Vogue’s power and an effort to position the magazine as an arbiter of influence, culture and people. Like the Met’s annual fund-raiser, it involves great eye candy, in terms of both clothes and celebrity. Unlike the Met, however, anyone who can afford a ticket, or wants to watch the livestream from afar, can get inside. Can be part, that is to say, of Vogue’s world. Aspiration is part of the price of admission — if you want to buy in.

This time around, that meant about 800 guests, many of them paying 3,000 euros (or $3,205, including tax) for a second-row seat, and €2,000 for third row, as well as the chance to hob nob (or at least be close to) the first row, which was largely reserved for every French designer under the sun as well as fashion-adjacent friends of Vogue such as Emma Chamberlain, Selma Blair and Russell Westbrook. Ms. Wintour herself was sandwiched between John Galliano — in yet another show of her support for that designer — and Pharrell Williams, the Louis Vuitton men’s wear designer (among many other things).

And it meant celebrating what the program labeled the “100 years of French fashion and sport” between the previous Paris Olympics, in 1924, and today.

Cue more than 180 looks on more than 150 models and various celebrity guest stars parading around the obelisk in the center of the square in new fashions from a variety of French brands inspired by each decade from the ’20s on, each time period paired with an athletic endeavor that was represented by dancers and occasionally actual athletes pantomiming the sport. Think cycling and the ’20s, track and the ’30s, gymnastics and the ’70s, and so on. (As for why what sport went with what decade, there was a rationale, such as soccer in the 1990s in honor of France’s first World Cup win, but it was not always entirely clear.)

Then cue Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner in Hermès, riding in on Hermès-outfitted horses. Maluma, in a Thom Browne look. Sabrina Carpenter surprise modeling a red-and-white cabana-stripe Jacquemus look in the 1940s section and Katy Perry wearing a Noir Kei Ninomiya piece that resembled leaves strung together with bristling fur pompoms for the 1980s. Cue lots of flags and fencers.

Aya Nakamura, the French-Malaian singer, whose rumored appearance at the Games set off a firestorm in March, was there, wearing Jean Paul Gaultier couture and opening the shindig with her song “Fly.” So was Bad Bunny, serenading soccer players (the 1990s) with “Monaco” and break dancers (the 2010s) with “Titi Me Preguntó.” And so were athletes: Venus and Serena Williams, strutting their stuff in Off-White and Marine Serre.

As a finale, Victor Wembanyama , the French basketball player who was the No. 1 pick in the 2023 NBA Draft and who presumably was on his way to an Olympic training camp, took a turn in a white Louis Vuitton suit along with Marie-José Pérec, the 1992 and 1996 French Olympic track star, who wore an Alaïa gown in the colors of the French flag.

Plus there was the actual French national cycling team, though it kind of got lost in all the hoo-ha and under bike helmets (not to mention the appearance of some dancing waiters with red wine bottles glued to their trays — because of the Café de Flore or something?). As did the eight judokas from the French national team.

Vogue is donating what it described as “a minimum” of €1 million from the proceeds of the event to Secours Populaire Français, a nonprofit organization dedicated, in part, to helping young French athletes access sports and the necessary equipment. And yet, after the show was over and everyone filed out through the Ritz and into the night and tried to sort through the haute kitschiness of what they had just seen, it was hard not to think that sports, the nominal inspiration for the whole thing, was actually the least of the matter.

That it was just the backdrop for the fashion, which was itself just the window dressing for the boldface names, who were there for the brand with its name on the front of the program.

That in the end, Vogue was the only real winner. Even if this particular gold medal was more like a foil-wrapped fondant.

Vanessa Friedman has been the fashion director and chief fashion critic for The Times since 2014. More about Vanessa Friedman

Inside the 2024 Paris Summer Olympics

News and Analysis

Three Chinese swimmers who failed drug tests before the 2021 Olympics had tested positive for a powerful steroid several years earlier . They were not suspended in either incident, and all are expected to compete in Paris.

Bill May, the 45-year-old artistic swimmer who was vying for a chance to be the first man to compete in the sport at the Olympics, did not make the U.S. team’s final roster .

Seeking to undermine the Paris Olympics, Russian propagandists  are spoofing broadcasters and mimicking French and U.S. intelligence agencies to stoke fear about security at the Games.

A Guide to the Games and the Athletes

USA Olympic Uniforms: What does it mean to dress to represent the United States? As far as Ralph Lauren is concerned, it appears to mean a navy blazer .

When Olympic Dreams Die: There will be no shortage of drama when the Paris Games begin in July, but most hearts will be broken in June’s cutthroat qualifying trials .

Katie Ledecky: As she prepares for the Games, the seven-time Olympic gold medalist talks about the doping accusations against her competitors  and how she stays focused while swimming 1,900 miles a year.

More ‘Open’ Signs: With millions of visitors expected in Paris, many shopkeepers, bakers and restaurateurs are forgoing their annual summer vacations . Parisians who are less enthusiastic about hosting the Games  took to TikTok.

Dagne Dover Launched Its First-Ever Rolling Luggage Collection

By Juliet Izon

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

If you’ve been in an airport at any point during the last decade (and we’re guessing you have if you’re reading this), then you’re familiar with Dagne Dover ’s ubiquitous Dakota backpack . Made out of squishy, durable neoprene and available in a kaleidoscope of trendy colors ranging from a mauve-y Dune to the chartreuse Piña, the pack has garnered legions of fans not only for its sporty-yet-chic design, but its clever features like a luggage sleeve and an included shoe bag.

In recent years, the Dakota has become my favorite travel companion, which made me even more excited to test out the brand’s first-ever line of rolling luggage, which launched on June 21. The collection, dubbed The Luggage Edit , includes two sizes of checked rolling luggage (28.5" and 25"), two carry-ons (23.5" and 20.5"), four sizes of packing cubes, and two types of garment bags, all available in four colorways—(Onyx, Dark Moss, Warm Dust, and Ash). Similar to the cult-favorite backpacks, these pieces are engineered to help you travel smarter, while still turning heads in the terminal.

“For years people have been asking us, ‘When are you going to come out with luggage?’” says Dagne Dover CEO and co-founder Melissa Mash . “They want something that’s modern—that feels like our generation—but also has the functionality that accounts for all the things they’re traveling with. They haven’t seen that yet for luggage, so I think that’s going to be a big piece of the appeal of our bags.” One telling example? Dagne Dover’s garment bag extends out to a generous 67" length, which means it can accommodate a long dress (hello wedding season!) without the train getting scrunched up at the bottom.

All in, the process from initial ideation to completion took about three years. “We knew it would require a lot of R and D, market research, focus grouping, surveying, and then also just testing the product ourselves,” says Jessy Dover, chief creative officer and co-founder. The brand’s fastidious attention to detail has paid off: The new pieces are not only extremely user-friendly, but, well, super cute, too. Read on to hear what I love most about a few new pieces in the collection, after taking them on a nearly weeklong trip to the Franciacorta region of Italy as well as a long-weekend jaunt to Hotel Le Toiny in St. Barths .

Discover Dagne Dover's new collection:

The brand’s rolling luggage is divided into two categories, checked and carry-on, but all of the pieces feature the same ultra-durable and water-resistant exterior made with recycled 900 D poly fabric. Each carry-on and checked suitcase also features padded handles that make lugging them out of overhead bins far more comfortable, zippers that allow you to open it from the front or clamshell-style, and the smoothest 360-degree wheels I’ve ever used. The Sydney’s 28.5" and 25" models can easily fit a week’s worth of clothes or more—especially when you pair them with the coordinating packing cubes. These larger sizes can also accommodate a pet carrier on top and have a zippered expander for when you inevitably return with more than what you packed.

Capacity : 66L (25" bag); 95L (28.5" bag)

Price : $675 (25" bag); $725 (28.5" bag)

The smaller Seattle carry-ons are ideal for long weekend trips. I recently tested out the 23.5" carry-on for a trip to Italy’s Franciacorta region, and not only did it easily fit all of my day and night outfits, it also got a few admiring stares in the Milan airport as well. I love the amount of pockets in this model (similar to Dagne Dover’s Dakota backpack), from the padded tech sleeve you can access from the front of the bag, to the slim zippered pocket in the back that’s great for stashing your passport or license on the go. One caveat: I tested this bag in the Warm Dust color (think a dusty rose), and when I needed to check the bag while on a Tradewind flight to St. Barths, it did come back with noticeable scuff marks. You might want to opt for darker shades like Carbon if you’d rather not see as much wear and tear.

Capacity : 41L (23.5" bag); 33L (20.5" bag)

Price: $625 (23.5" bag); $595 (20.5" bag)

I love a coordinated moment, so the fact that these packing cubes can be color-matched to your luggage fills my type-A heart with joy. Made out of cushiony, recycled Air Mesh, the cubes come in four different sizes, with the largest holding bulkier pieces like sweatshirts and packable jackets , while the smallest is perfect for underwear or storing all of your electronic cords. One particularly smart touch is the customizable labels on the front, which means it’s easy to figure out what’s inside each one.

Size : 2-19L

Price : $30-$45

If you’re looking for something a little sturdier than the plastic bag the department store gave you, the Capri garment bag is a game-changer. It easily fits four outfits, and as mentioned above, is long enough for floor-length formalwear. Four smaller zip pockets are great for storing jewelry or cufflinks, and there are also two designated pockets for shoes—which means you can truly pack your whole outfit in one of these without anything getting misplaced. This also might be the first garment bag I’ve tried that includes a luggage sleeve, allowing me to navigate through the airport hands-free. Downsides? I found the metal buckles on this bag to be a little harder to unclasp than your standard plastic variety, and it took me a minute to figure out how to fold it back up properly (though maybe that says more about my spatial skills than anything else).

Capacity : 25L

Unlike the Capri garment bag above, the Monaco can also double as a weekender , which means you’re really getting two bags for the price of one. You can easily fit everything you need for a long weekend getaway in here, but I also like using it as a gym-to-work bag. It comes equipped with a designated padded computer pouch and a shoe bag that can be used for dirty clothes. Unlike other garment duffels I’ve tested previously, which are often a bit flimsy and lean more into garment bag territory than duffel, this model is far sturdier. I especially love the strong zipper, which easily unzips the bag to lie flat, and the convertible straps for both long and short carry.

Capacity: 46L

The verdict:

The luggage space—particularly when it comes to rolling bags—has certainly been flooded with “disruptive” direct-to-consumer brands in the last few years. So it’s legitimate to ask why we need another entry into the category, and what Dagne Dover is offering that’s different from the carry-on you already have stashed at home. For me, the major reason why I’ll be swapping these bags into my travel rotation is their ability to help me organize better: The many pockets and ways of accessing compartments in the bags has helped me pack (and unpack) smarter and faster. And as someone who’s on the road at least once every three to four weeks, that’s worth the higher price tag.

Shop more of our favorite Dagne Dover pieces:

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