railway tours in europe

The best train rides in Europe: 10 amazing journeys for 2024

Jan 16, 2024 • 8 min read

Incredible scenery awaits traveling through the Bernese Alps; Jungfrau, Switzerland © Thomas Barwick / Getty

There’s something magical about a journey by train.

Sometimes the magic is inside – on a train you have room to move and meet people, dine in a restaurant car with white tablecloths, and sleep in a private compartment between crisp, clean sheets with the sound of steel wheels swishing on the rails beneath you. Sometimes the magic is outside, in the landscape the train traverses – an adventure, an experience, an insight into the heart of a nation.

Below are some of the most beautiful train rides in Europe – some well known, some less so, some luxurious and expensive, others true bargains. From countryside views and mountain villages to alpine passes and landmark bridges (with a little wildlife spotting thrown in for good measure), the continent offers up some of the most scenic train rides in the world.

The best European train trips include the fabulous Bernina Express, the most enchanting Swiss Alpine ride of all, and the spectacular railway from Belgrade to Bar through the mountains of Montenegro . The latter is one of the most scenic train rides you’ve probably never heard of, with a bargain fare of just €21. So here they are, the 10 best train journeys in Europe, extracted from Lonely Planet's Amazing Train Journeys .

1. Settle to Carlisle, England

Route: Settle to Carlisle Best bit? Marveling at the Ribblehead Viaduct, one of the great views of northern England , preferably as a steam train thunders over. Distance:  113km (73 miles) Duration: 1 hour 40 minutes

England’s Settle-to-Carlisle line has long been synonymous with the fight to preserve beautiful and historic stretches of railway. But this is no heritage line. Proudly part of the British rail network and served by regular mainline trains, the railway enjoys a double life as a frequent host of steam specials and, even rarer, steam-hauled mainline services.

Whether you have the whiff of steam in your nostrils or the hard-working growl of diesel-hauled regular trains in your ears, the views from the carriages are pretty much unmatched on the English railway network.

Passengers can feast their eyes on mile after mile of magnificent Yorkshire Dales and North Pennines scenery, interrupted only by stations so sweet you would expect to find them pictured on a box of biscuits.

2. Le Petit Train Jaune, France

Route: Villefranche-de-Conflent to Latour-de-Carol Best bit? Holding your breath as you cross the gravity-defying Pont Gisclard. Distance:  63km (39 miles) Duration: 4 hours 30 minutes

Since 1910, the dinky, sunflower-yellow carriages of the Ligne de Cerdagne have been rattling and clattering their way through the rolling forests and saw-toothed mountains of the Pyrenees , and they have secured a special place in the hearts of many French travelers.

Affectionately known as the Canary, or Le Petit Train Jaune (Little Yellow Train), this mountain railway is frequently cited as the most scenic in France , but it’s definitely not a luxury service – it’s a rollercoaster ride on which you will feel the wind in your hair and the chill of the mountain breeze as you ratchet your way up to the highest train station in France. On y va!

3. Belgrade-to-Bar Railway, Serbia and Montenegro

Route: Belgrade to Bar Best bit? Levitating atop the 499m-long (1637ft), 198m-tall (650ft) Mala Rijeka Viaduct, one of the planet’s highest railway bridges, before the train glides over the Balkans’ largest lake, Skadar. Distance: 476km (296 miles) Duration: 12 hours

Dramatic is the operative word for this route, which rumbles over an unsullied, mountainous landscape from Serbia 's capital, Belgrade , to Montenegro ’s Adriatic Coast . During the 12-hour journey, the train disappears into the Dinaric Alps, charges through canyons, teeters on stilted bridges spanning river gorges and skims atop an ancient, tectonic lake.

Like the region it serves, the railway, which chugs across the heart of the Western Balkans , eludes most tourists’ maps. The reward for treasure-hunting travelers, who are informed (or lucky) enough to know where to dig: an embarrassment of authentic culture and pristine geographic riches at every bend.

4. The Bernina Express, Switzerland

Route: Chur to Tirano Best bit? Marveling at the astonishingly turquoise Lago Bianco from the route’s highest station, Ospizio Bernina (2253m/7392ft). Distance: 156km (96 miles) Duration: 4 hours 30 minutes

We can wax lyrical about the glacier-capped mountains, waterfall-draped ravines, jewel-colored lakes and endless spruce forests glimpsed through panoramic windows on Switzerland ’s Bernina Express – but, trust us, seeing is believing.

Rolling from Chur in Graubünden to Tirano in northern Italy in around four hours, this narrow-gauge train often tops polls of the world’s most beautiful rail journeys. It's certainly one of the most scenic train journeys in Switzerland.

Beyond the phenomenal Alpine landscape, the railway itself is a masterpiece of early 20th-century engineering, taking 55 tunnels and 196 bridges in its stride. The line is on the UNESCO World Heritage List – and with good reason.

5. The Heart of Wales Line, Wales and England

Route: Swansea to Shrewsbury Best bit? Disembarking at lonely Sugar Loaf Station for a walk or picnic around the iconic nearby knoll of the same name. Distance: 194km (121 miles) Duration: 4 hours

This is Swansea to Shrewsbury the slow and, frankly, surreal way. This one-carriage train traverses track through Wales and England that might easily have been consigned to a museum or an out-of-print book, but that has somehow defied time and logic to survive as a passenger route.

Expect a spectrum of scenery, alternating from the sand-edged estuaries of South Wales, via bucolic farming towns and tracts of forest and hill country you probably never knew existed, through to one of England’s prettiest medieval cities. This four-hour, 34-station zigzag passes almost no major sights or countryside villages, but a very high concentration of spectacularly zany ones.

6. Munich to Venice on the Brenner Railway, Germany, Austria and Italy

Route: Munich to Venice Best bit? Stretching your legs at 1371m (4498ft) Brenner Pass, the highest point on the trip. Distance:  563km (350 miles) Duration: 6 hours 30 minutes

The Brenner Railway is attractive for two key reasons: mountains and wine. There may be more technically astonishing high-altitude trains, but this was the first to cross the Alps, in the 1860s.

On a surprisingly speedy day trip, you pass through three countries – Germany , Austria and Italy – and descend from the snow line to sea level. You’re rarely far from highways, but the vineyard views are still stunning. Bonus: great European cities with historic architecture – Munich and Venice – are at either end.

7. The Kyle of Lochalsh Line, Scotland

Route: Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh Best bit? Passing under the gentle grassy slopes of Fionn Bheinn – a munro rising high over Achnasheen. Distance:  135km (84 miles) Duration: 2 hours 30 minutes

Scotland has an abundance of windswept railways – the West Highland Line and the Far North Line to Thurso among them. Though comparatively unsung, perhaps the loneliest of all is the Kyle of Lochalsh Line – with trains rumbling doggedly from Inverness through desolate glens and past snowy munros, connecting the cold shores of the North Sea to the furious whitewater of the Atlantic.

It is a railway line full of poetry and beloved by aficionados – but it’s also a useful way for independent travelers to access remote nooks of the Highlands, and make a journey to the Isle of Skye.

8. Nova Gorica to Jesenice, Slovenia

Route: Nova Gorica to Jesenice Best bit? Catching a glimpse of picture-perfect Lake Bled’s church, castle and bright-blue water. Distance: 89km (55 miles) Duration: 2 hours

Here is a near-perfect railway adventure that most people have never heard of. Then again, you could be forgiven for missing it. The Bohinj Railway, after all, connects two places whose significance can be lost to modern travelers. Europe’s shifting borders and politics may have rather marooned the Nova Gorica–Jesenice line, but that only adds to the appeal.

An unassuming regional train rattling out of a faded-grandeur halt on the Italy– Slovenia border doesn’t even hint at what’s to come. The journey is a spectacular tour of Slovenia’s upland highlights, climbing through mountain towns and villages along the Soča River, passing through superb Alpine scenery close to Lake Bohinj , and past world-famous Lake Bled , offering photo opportunities galore.

9. The Centovalli Express, Switzerland and Italy

Route: Domodossola to Locarno Best bit? Taking in the Isorno viaduct, the site of Switzerland’s first bungee jump. Distance:  52km (32 miles) Duration: 2 hours

Often eclipsed by Switzerland’s more famous rail rides, this two-hour trundle from Locarno on the palm-rimmed shores of Lake Maggiore to Domodossola over the Italian border in Piedmont is something of an unsung beauty.

Brush up your Italiano to swoon in sync with fellow passengers as the dinky train clatters across 83 bridges and burrows its way through 34 tunnels. The views make for spirit-lifting stuff: waterfalls shooting past cliffside views, hillside vineyards, gracefully arched viaducts, slate-roofed hamlets, glacier-carved ravines and mile after mile of chestnut and beech forests, all set against the puckered backdrop of mountains that are snow-capped in winter.

10. Bergensbanen, Norway

Route: Oslo to Bergen Best bit? Gazing over the soul-stirring landscape of Hardangervidda between Geilo and Finse. Distance: 496km (308 miles) Duration: 6 hours 30 minutes

This astonishing train is one of the wonders of 19th-century railway building, and yet outside Norway hardly anyone knows about it. In just over six hours and some 490km (300 miles), it covers the spectrum of Norway ’s natural splendor: climbing canyons, crossing rivers, burrowing through mountainsides, swooping past fjords and traversing barren icescapes. All aboard for the Oslo to Bergen trainline, Bergensbanen: a mainline into Norwegian nature.

This article was first published Aug 20, 2019 and updated Jan 16, 2024.

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Rail tours through europe.

HappyRail has been the go-to European rail travel specialist for over 20 years. Our unique and custom-made individual rail tours are booked for you by our train travel experts and refined by years of experience. You recieve a comprehensive information package for every travel day, including travel descriptions, maps, all tickets and reservations, and more. Flexibility Our Rail tours are fully flexible in length. Customize your stay at each stop in the tours according to your own wishes. For each tour, a set of stations across Europe are available as selectable starting points from where we book all the train tickets you need. Feel free reach out to our train travel experts for further advice! Swiss rail tours For those who can't get enough of luxury, comfort, and breathtaking views, Switzerland is a dream destination. Every rail tour through Switzerland is unique, and with a wide range of options, there's always a tour that suits you. No panoramic train will be missed during a Switzerland tour. Thanks to the panoramic windows and the leisurely pace of the Glacier Express, you can fully enjoy the most beautiful parts of the Swiss Alps. The Bernina Express takes you through thirteen tunnels, 52 viaducts, and the famous spiral viaduct to the Italian border. Views of mountain passes and lakes will also be part of your tour. In short, a train tour in Switzerland offers endless variety and is highly recommended. We offer three distinct rail tours in Switzerland, each with it's own combination of scenic railways, as well as the  Grand Tour of Europe  and  Heart of Europe  rail tours across multiple countries but also featuring the best of Switzerland's scenic railways. Mediterranean Train Tours The countries around the Mediterranean are suitable for more than just relaxation: they are also fantastic destinations for (active) rail tours. You can discover the authentic villages of Cinque Terre in Italy. Combined with cities like Rome and Florence into one rail tour, you'll explore this beautiful part of Italy in a way that no other mode of transportation allows. Italian high-speed trains are the fastest and most comfortable way to explore the country. In Spain, a tour through the undiscovered north of the country or a trip through breathtaking Andalusia might be the perfect journey for you. Direct local or high-speed trains take you from one fascinating city to another, with hotels and train itineraries booked based on years of experience. For island lovers, train tours are possible in Sicily and Corsica , where our package rail tours also contain tickets with comfortable sea-view cabins on the boats to and from the islands, and where you stay in the most authentic local hotels. Scandinavian rail tours Discover Norway at its best with one of our train tours. Our favorite is the Norway in a Nutshell: no highlight is missed. You'll ride through the diverse landscape between Oslo and Vatnahalsen on the famous Bergen Railway, in the luxury and comfort of Norwegian trains. You can continue the perhaps most beautiful train journey in the world with the world-famous Flåm Railway, followed by a boat and train journey through the impressive Nærøyfjord to Bergen. From Bergen, you can choose to continue traveling with the Hurtigruten to get a view of the beautiful Norwegian fjords, and the Dovre Railway is a train ride that cannot be missed during your train tour of Norway. If, after all these beautiful train rides, you still can't get enough of the stunning Scandinavian landscape, a train tour of Norway can also be perfectly combined with a train tour of Sweden and Finland! The Inlandsbanan is one of the most beautiful train routes in all of Scandinavia. The 1296-kilometer railway runs straight through Sweden with the most beautiful views along the way: endless forests, rivers, bridges, lakes, and even wildlife will pass by during the journey. In addition to a visit to Stockholm, many come to Sweden for Swedish Lapland, known for its wild landscape and the chance to see the Northern Lights in winter. Cross the Arctic Circle in this area with the Arctic Circle train or travel with one of the many other comfortable night trains through the Swedish landscape. Finally, a train tour through Sweden can also be perfectly combined with a tour of Norway and Finland if you're looking for even more variation of unique natural phenomena. Germany, Austria & central Europe Europe's most impressive historical cities can be found in it's heartland. You'll also find some of the most comfortable express trains here, with dining cars and comfortable 1st class or even business class carriages. A best-seller, with good reason is the  Highlights of Austria  rail tour, combining comfortable direct express trains with the prettiest cities in Austria, travelling through landscapes straight out of the Sound of Music movie. Vienna and Salzburg are cities you must have visited at least once. The Romantic Road railtour takes you through fairytale-like landscapes and Germany, where you get to see medieval castles and villages that look like they are stuck in time. The Historic Cities of Eastern Germany and Central Europe tours meanwhile focus on the most historically interesting cities anywhere in Europe. The  Heart of Europe  tour takes you to the most impressive cities of 7 countries, It includes many scenic railways like the Transalpine railway through the Austrian Alps and the famous Swiss Glacier Express. Cruises on the beautiful Danube and over the Bodensee lake complete this unforgettable holiday.

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Train & Rail Tours in Western Europe

Relax and admire breathtaking views in Western Europe only accessible by train journey. With 106 Western Europe train tours lasting from 1 days up to 30 days, you're sure to find a railway carriage with your name on it on a route that will leave you speechless.

106 Train tour packages in Western Europe with 942 reviews

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Glacier Express & Porsche 911 Rail & Drive Experience

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Barcelona to Berlin (15 Days)

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Highlights of Europe (Classic, Summer, Start Amsterdam, End London, 13 Days)

Paris to Barcelona: Tapas & Train Rides

Mediterranean Express: Rivieras & Railroads

Hey is anyone going on the Mediterranean Express trip on 8th September, looking to get to know my fellow travellers a little before I arrive! :)

Western Europe Group Rail Tour (18-35)

The tour was really well organised and took all the stress out of all the transfers and finding trains etc. The hostels were all clean and helpful and any issues were sorted very quickly . My tour leader Tom (aka Liam Payne) was super helpful and knowledgeable about the areas (best places for food etc) . Great sense of humour too haha

• 10% deposit on some dates Some departure dates offer you the chance to book this tour with a lower deposit.

Highlights of Italy

Enjoyed Highlights of Italy tour this August. Especially enjoyed Venice, with its spectacle of grand piazza's, canals and inviting shops of amazing masks and general festive atmosphere. Found our tour guide Inga, both engaging and professional with many tales of interest. Cinque Terra, was also very memorable with it's beautiful mountain top towns and vivid blue seascapes, walking the trail was unforgettable. With a great bunch of fellow travellers this was one of the most enjoyable tours i have booked. Only disappointment was arriving in Mestre to Hotel Mondail and the associated Hotel.açcross the road, this put a damper on the start of the trip, but fortunately the standard of hotels improved as we travelled throughout Italy. Overall fantastic trip.

Whole of Europe Group Rail Tour (18-35)

Have recently returned from the Whole of Europe group tour and I can honestly say I can not recommend Euroventure highly enough! For anyone that is nervous about travelling alone or just wants the opportunity to travel with a group of likeminded people this is the perfect opportunity! Also having Euroventure sort out all accommodation and travel took a lot of the stress out of the trip for me! Our tour leader was Tom who was super friendly and always able to help if we had questions or simply recommend fun things to do in each city! Will definitely be looking to book with a Euroventure again!

Contrasts of Switzerland (8 Days)

Great tour of Switzerland. Lots of daily train travel.

• €100 deposit on some dates Some departure dates offer you the chance to book this tour with a lower deposit.

Milan to Amsterdam Rail Tour

We had a good time even though some things happened which weren't. We had to switch trains and my luggage did not make it off the train. Fellow passengers helped get the suitcases off but missed mine or it had been removed from the original location. (I think there should be temporary stickers or tags on our luggage so they would be more visible, in cases like this). I also missed 3 of the included lunches and dinners because I had to take a 4 hour train ride to retrieve my luggage at my own expense of $250.

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Italy By Train

Well done booking the hotel , excellent service from hotel’s and people to pick us up from the airport and taking us back! Thank you! We enjoy it!

Train tours Italy: Venice, Florence, Rome, Sorrento by train

Tour of Italy by high speed train was a wonderful experience. Our tour guide, Melena, was fabulous. We would travel with her again! Well planned out group tours and free time for individual activities. Traveling by train between the cities was the perfect way to go.

London to Budapest by Train (Summer, 15 Days)

Scenic Switzerland by Train

Switzerland is such a beautiful country and we had a wonderful guide. The Swiss train service is fabulous. Prices are high there but we had expected that. A few group meals were weak and I would have liked to have a farewell dinner with the group on the last night. Most group tours have some kind of closure event.

Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre & Venice in 7 Days

Overall for a budget tour, this was a great tour. The tour guides were very knowledgeable. The accommodation was clean and spacious. The included meals were delicious. My only criticism is that there was not enough free time in Cinque Terre considering how much travel time was required.

What people love about Train & Rail Tours in Western Europe

Great experience! Well organized, the group activities were super fun, and I had the opportunity to meet amazing people from all over the world.

The tour itself was amazing! A lot of value for money. The tour guide did seem to be a bit annoyed at us at the end when we wanted to get transport back to the hotel, after walking over half a marathon. This is notable considering a few members had lower body injuries/ health concerns. Other than that, I really loved my trip. I made friends for life, memories I’ll cherish for years

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Luxury European Train Tours & Luxury Train Vacations Europe

Luxury european train holiday destinations & places.

Our range of luxury train tours in Europe lets you explore this fascinating continent in comfort and style. The slow pace of luxury rail travel in Europe gives you time to see the countries you pass through rather than just the tourist sites, and we think there is nothing like European luxury train vacations as a way to travel in Europe. Most luxury European train holidays focus on East and Central Europe, including the Balkans. Spain and Portugal also have luxury trains in Europe. Below you can browse all the destinations visited by our luxury train trips in Europe. Under each destination, you can view the luxury European train tours that visit each destination.

Luxury train holidays in Europe visit the well-known sites but also pass through places that are less visited and can make short stops to visit these places that regular luxury rail tours to Europe might miss. As the luxury sleeper trains in Europe act as a hotel on wheels, there is no need to pack and unpack, and the European luxury train trips allow for short visits to many places. This gives the passenger a more rounded experience of the countries they pass through. Taking a luxury train through Europe is a rewarding and relaxing way to travel with like-minded people.

Luxury Rail Tours In Europe

Just click on any of the tours listed below to open up or download a PDF file with the tour’s full details including dates and pricing.

● Please remember that booking as far ahead as you can in advance is essential for these trains ●

7 Nights from UK £ 14,295 / US$ 17,595 / € 16,195

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France ● Switzerland ● Austria ● Slovenia ● Serbia ● Bulgaria ● Turkey

Turkey ● Bulgaria ● Serbia ● Slovenia ● Austria ● Switzerland ● France

11 Nights from UK £ 14,795 / US$ 18,495 / € 16,795

Venice ● Trieste ● Ljubljana ● Sarajevo ● Mostar ● Dubrovnik ● Belgrade ● Skopje ● Sofia ● Plovdiv ● Istanbul

Venice ● Trieste ● Ljubljana ● Sarajevo ● Mostar ● Belgrade ● Bar ● Podgorica ● Skopje ● Sofia ● Plovdiv ● Istanbul

6 Nights From UK £ 8,995 / US $ 11,195 / € 10,195

Istanbul ● Veliko Tarnovo ● Sinaia ● Brasov ● Sighisoara ● Sibiu ● Kecskemet ● Lajosmizse ● Budapest

10 Nights From UK £ 13,695 / US $ 17,095 / € 15,495

Budapest ● Vienna ● Lake Achen ● Innsbruck ● Zürich ● Lake Como ● Milan ● Verona ● Trieste ● Lake Bled ● Ljubljana ● Venice

Budapest ● Vienna ● Semmering Pass ● Lake Achen ● Innsbruck ● Zurich ● St Gotthard Pass ● Lake Como ● Verona ● Trieste ● Lake Bled ● Ljubljana ● Postojna ● Venice

7 Nights From UK £ 9,395 / US $ 11,795 / € 10,695

Budapest ● Keszthely ● Tapolca ● Sopron ● Eger ● Lillafured ● Aggtelek ● Hortobagy National Park ● Tokaj ● Opusztaszer ● Szeged ● Budapest

5 Nights from UK £ 6,210 / US$ 7,590 pp

Contact us for quotes in other currencies

Epernay ● Reims ● Beaune ● Annecy ● Avignon ● Les Alpilles ● Arcachon ● Saint-Emilion ● Chenonceau ● Puy Du Fou

7 Nights From UK £ 7,995 / US $ 9,995 / € 9,095

A festive journey westbound across Europe from Budapest to Munich via Vienna & Salzburg

A festive journey eastbound across Europe from Munich to Budapest via Salzburg & Vienna

11 Nights From UK £ 14,795 / US $ 18,495 / € 16,795

Budapest ● Krakow ● Warsaw ● Malbork ● Gdansk ● Berlin ● Dresden ● Prague ● Salzburg ● Vienna

8 Nights From UK £ 11,195 / US $ 13,995 / € 12,695

Budapest ● Keszthely ● Graz ● Vienna ● Cesky Krumlov ● Prague ● Kosice ● Budapest

2 Nights From UK £ 4,400 per person

Travel straight into the heart of the Scottish Highlands, visiting enchanting sites of natural beauty and making the most of the thrilling outdoor activities

3 Nights From UK £ 6,400 per person

Explore the rugged landscapes of the West coast of Scotland

Embark on a captivating journey through Scotland’s untamed beauty.

4 Nights From UK £ 8,300 per person

Discover the wild wonders and picturesque scenery that Scotland has to offer

4 Nights From UK £ 8,900 per person

Dive into Scotland’s finest estates with untold stories and guided tours

Embark on an adventure with the Scotch Malt Whisky Society, our partner for this unique journey through Scotland

5 Nights From UK £11,200 per person

Discover Scotland through the ages with unique sceneries and intriguing experiences

5 Nights From UK £ 10,400 per person

Be spirited away as you retrace part of the famed West Highland Line

A combination of the traditional Highland and scenic Western journeys

7 Nights From UK £ 14,700 per person

Explore the many wonders of the Scottish Highlands at a leisurely pace

Head West and explore the many wonders of the Scottish Highlands at a leisurely pace

9 Nights From UK £ 8,690 / US $ 11,830

Santiago De Compostela ● Ourense ● León ● Ávila ● Toledo ● Córdoba ● Seville

6 Nights From Euro 5,600 per person

Málaga ● Granada ● Úbeda ● Baeza ● Córdoba ● Ronda ● Jerez De La Frontera ● Cádiz ● Seville

Seville ● Cádiz ● Jerez De La Frontera ● Ronda ● Córdoba ● Baeza ● Úbeda ● Granada ● Málaga

7 Nights From Euro 8,900 Per Person

Santiago De Compostela ● Viveiro ● Ribadeo ● Luarca ● Gijon ● Oviedo ● Llanes ● Santillana Del Mar ● Cabezon De La Sal ● Potes ● Santander ● Carranza ● Bilbao ● San Sebastian

7 Nights From Euro 8,900 per person

San Sebastian ● Bilbao ● Carranza ● Santander ● Potes ● Cabezon De La Sal ● Santillana Del Mar ● Llanes ● Oviedo ● Gijon ● Luarca ● Ribadeo ● Viveiro ● Santiago De Compostela

13 NIGHTS FROM £ 18,295 / US$ 24,695

BASEL ● ST MORITZ ● TIRANO (ITALY) ● ANDERMATT ● ZERMATT ● BERN ● INTERLAKEN (JUNGFRAU REGION) ● LAKE COMO (ITALY) ● PILATUS KULM ● ZURICH

Luxurious Train Rides Europe: Austria

Austria has some of the best mix of scenery and cities in Europe and is a popular destination for European luxury train travel. It has a well-developed and beautifully engineered rail network making luxury rail holidays in Europe reliable and exhilarating with routes through places like the Semmering pass. Vienna and Salzburg are the most popular cities visited in Austria visited on our luxury European train tours. Click on the European luxury train vacations below each Austrian destination for full details.

The Capital of Austria and the former Habsburg Empire is a city with a rich culture and some superb imperial architecture.

The birthplace of Mozart and, of course, setting for the Sound of Music, beautiful Salzburg is a centre of culture in Austria.

Semmering Pass

This rail pass connects Lower Austria and Styria. The Semmering Railway built from 1848–54 was the first mountain railway in the world.

Lake Achen is a beautiful alpine lake with stunning clear turquoise waters and a popular area for water sports and hiking.

Located close to both Germany and Italy Innsbruck is famed as a ski resort but also has many historical buildings in the centre of the city.

New Year in Vienna is a magical time of festivities and often snow. It is also famed for the classical Vienna New Year concert.

European Luxury Train Vacations: Bosnia Herzegovina

Bosnia Herzegovina is a relative newcomer on luxury train rides in Europe itineraries and is a country that would often be overlooked. The beauty of a luxury train across Europe is that it can pass through these less visited places and take in the better-known destinations. Sarajevo and Mostar are the most popular places visited on these luxury European train holidays, and both these destinations have recovered well from the war in the 1990s.

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and known for its diversity of Christian Roman Catholic, Orthodox and the Muslim Ottoman.

Still shaking off its damage from the war in the 1990s the city is famous for its beautiful stone bridge which was rebuilt in 2004.

Luxury European Train Tours: Bulgaria

Bulgaria is located at a key point geographically between Europe and the near Orient and so features in quite a lot of luxury train vacations in Europe. The country has much to see and a good rail network for the European luxury train to use. Bulgaria has a long history and has been a pivotal country between Turkey and the rest of Europe. The main cities visited on luxury rail holidays in Europe are the coital of Sofia and the culturally rich cities of Veliko Tarnovo and Plovid.

Plovdiv is one of the oldest cities in Europe located on a large plain between the Rhodope Mountains and Balkan Range (Old Mountains).

Bulgaria’s capital is a dynamic place to visit with an architectural mix of Communist, Orthodox and European buildings.

Veliko Tarnovo

Veliko Turnovo was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire and is culturally rich in museums and historical sites.

Luxury Train Travel Europe: Croatia

Croatia is a Balkan country with a long and beautiful coastline. Its rail network is not as extensive as other Balkan countries. Still, it more than makes up for this with some outstanding destinations, not least Dubrovnik, making it a popular place to visit for luxury rail journeys in Europe. As well as Dubrovnik, other cities visited are Zagreb and Rijeka. Overall, Croatia is a welcome stop for luxury trains in Europe.

Zagreb’s chief attraction is the medieval ‘old city’ with architecture and cobbled streets reminiscent of Vienna, Budapest and Prague.

Rijeka is the main seaport of Croatia, located on Kvarner Bay, an inlet of the Adriatic Sea. It is compact and walkable city.

Once rivalling Venice, beautiful Dubrovnik is an UNESCO World Heritage city on the Adriatic Sea coast in the south of Croatia.

Luxury European Train Holidays: Czech Republic

The Czech Republic has one of Europe’s most famous cities, Prague, which is a must-see and featured on several luxury train journeys in Europe. The country has long been a stalwart for European tourism in the heart of Central and East Europe and has a well-developed train network. As well as the much-visited Prague, the luxury European train holiday also visits Cesky Krumlov, which has just as beautiful architecture as Prague but is far less well known.

CZECH REPUBLIC

Prague is one of the largest cities in Central Europe and has served as the capital of the historic region of Bohemia for centuries.

Cesky Krumlov

Český Krumlov is a beautiful town little changed over centuries full of Baroque buildings and with a castle and old-town square.

Experience Luxury Train Travel: France

Taking a luxury train in France offers an unparalleled travel experience, combining the romance of rail travel with opulent comfort. The journey itself becomes a highlight, not just a means to reach a destination. Luxury trains, like Le Grand Tour, provide sumptuous accommodations and fine dining, allowing travellers to relax in a refined ambiance reminiscent of a bygone era. The scenic routes traverse through France’s breathtaking landscapes, offering views of picturesque villages, vineyards, and historical sites, often inaccessible by other means of transport. It’s an immersive cultural experience, where travellers can enjoy French cuisine and wines while mingling with an international clientele. This mode of travel appeals to those seeking a leisurely pace, luxury, and a unique way to explore France’s rich heritage and stunning geography.

Enchanting lakeside gem with medieval charm, vibrant markets, and stunning Alpine vistas—a serene and picturesque fairy-tale escape.

A captivating seaside retreat boasting pristine beaches, renowned oyster farms, and the majestic Dune du Pilat.

Step into history with its majestic Papal Palace, vibrant cultural scene, and the iconic Pont Saint-Bénézet

Immerse in Burgundy’s heart, famed for world-class wines, historic Hospices de Beaune, and charming medieval architecture.

The Champagne capital, offering exquisite tastings, grand vineyards, and miles of underground cellars to explore.

A sensory delight with lavender fields, sun-drenched vineyards, ancient villages, and a deeply rich cultural heritage.

A historic city renowned for its magnificent cathedral, Champagne houses, and a rich tapestry of French heritage.

Luxury European Train Tour: Hungary

Hungary is a pivotal country in East Europe with an extensive and well-developed train network providing one of the best luxury train vacations Europe offers, fascinating cities and beautiful scenery. Some of the most luxurious train rides in Europe tour this country extensively to take advantage of this. The capital of Budapest is actually two cities Buda and Pest which are divided by the river. This city has some impressive architecture. The rest of the country has many towns and sights worth visiting on your luxury European train tour, and the nature of luxury train rides in Europe means that short stops can be made throughout your European luxury train trip.

Aggtelek is famous for its karst caves with the highlight being the Giants’ Hall 125 meters long, 55 meters wide and 30 meters high.

The capital of Hungary is a vibrant city noted for its classical music scene and nightlife as well as thermal baths and architecture.

Debrecen is the second largest city in Hungary and a centre for Hungarian Protestantism as well as a large science university.

Eger is known for its castle, thermal baths, baroque buildings, the northernmost Ottoman minaret, cuisine and red wines.

Hollókő is a preserved traditional settlement and a UNESCO World Heritage site and is a good way to understand local culture.

The Hortobagy National Park is in the Hungarian plain in the eastern part of the country known for it’s wildlife and traditional culture.

The city is well known for its secessionist architecture, museums, and for being the birthplace of composer Zoltan Kodály.

Located at the southern tip of lake Balaton the town is 750 years old. Gothic, baroque and Transylvanian architecture abounds.

Lajosmizse is a town in Bács-Kiskun county. It is located at the end of a railway line from Budapest and has a museum of folk culture.

Lillafüred close to Lake Hamori is a beautiful small town built as a holiday resort and centred around the Place Hotel and gardens.

Opusztaszer

The Ópusztaszer National Heritage Park is an open-air museum of Hungarian history most famous for the Feszty Panorama.

Sopron is a pleasant town very close to the border with Austria with winding streets and history dating back to medieval times.

Szeged is the third-largest city in Hungary known or the cathedral and a wealth of Art Nouveau buildings, and for the fish soup Halászlé.

Tapolca is known for its cave system as well as the beautiful Mill Pond. Due to the limestone karsts of this area the water is very pure.

Tokaj is a famous wine growing region dating back nearly 1,000 years and the main square of the town even has a the Bacchus fountain.

European Luxury Train Vacation: Italy

From a tourism perspective, Italy needs little introduction. The country has been seducing travellers for centuries. It is relatively less well known though, for its trains aside from being the endpoint of the Orient Express, the crème de la crème of luxury train travel in Europe. The rail network in Northern Italy is extensive; this is where the luxury train travel through Europe focuses on. Who wouldn’t want to take a European luxury train trip that visits such stunning places as Venice, Milan and Lake Como. Under each destination, you can explore the European luxury train vacation options for Italy below.

Beautiful lake in Lombardy surrounded by mountains. There are numerous pretty towns and villages around the shore.

Milan is famous for fashion and shopping and has some beautiful architecture as well as the famous La Scala opera house.

Once a very influential and powerful centre of politics, literature, music, art and culture under Austrian-Hungarian dominion.

Venice needs little introduction. Its sheer wealth of architecture and unique cancel system make it one of the world’s most visited cities.

Verona is rich in history with an abundance of Roman roots still evident today along with world class art and architecture – and gelato!

Luxury European Train Tour: Montenegro

Tiny Montenegro only takes a few hours to cross, but this is not a problem for luxury train trips in Europe which can fit this mountainous country in on their schedules before railing on to the following country. Luxury European train tours visit the dramatically located coastal town of Bar and the capital of Podgorica before continuing to explore the rest of the Balkans.

The capital of Montenegro is an interesting mix of old and new, Mediterranean and Balkan and is known for its cafe culture.

Bar has a wonderful setting on the coast backed by steep cliffs and mountains. Close by are the striking ruins of Stari Bar.

European Luxury Train Vacations: North Macedonia

Macedonia is another small Balkan country that most tourists would overlook. However, your “luxury interrailing Europe” trip can fit into their schedules as they do not need to overnight in hotels with the train acting as a hotel on wheels. This allows your European luxury train vacation to offer a short visit to fascinating Skopje, which features son several of Golden Eagle’s Danube Express train tours, including the very popular Venice to Istanbul route – one of the great luxury train rides in Europe.

NORTH MACEDONIA

Skopje is an old city with Ottoman and Byzantine era sights. The Tvrdina Kale Fortress has guarded the city since the 5th century.

Luxury Train Tours Europe: Poland

Most luxury sleeper trains in Europe focus on the southern part of East and Central Europe, but the southern Polish city of Krakow does make it into some of these itineraries, and rightly so. Krakow is one of Europe’s architectural masterpieces and is well worth a visit on any fancy train rides in Europe.

This former capital of Poland has plenty of medieval architecture which combines with a more youthful student population and culture.

Luxury Rail Tours in Southern Europe: Portugal

Opting for a luxury train journey in Portugal offers an unforgettable experience that blends the charm of vintage travel with modern indulgence. As you traverse through Portugal’s stunning landscapes, you’re treated to a visual feast of rolling vineyards, historic towns, and dramatic coastlines. Onboard, experience unparalleled comfort, exquisite dining featuring Portuguese cuisine, and impeccable service. It’s more than just travel; it’s about embracing the slower pace and elegance of a bygone era, while exploring Portugal’s rich cultural tapestry and scenic beauty in a uniquely luxurious setting.

Luxury European Train Holidays: Romania

Like neighbouring Bulgaria and Hungary, Romania is a popular destination for the most luxurious trains in Europe. This enigmatic country has a long history and spectacular scenery to enjoy on your luxury European train holiday. The fantastically named Danube Express train tour “Castles of Transylvania” encompasses a range of places, including Sighişoara and Bran and Râșnov, which are all tied up with the legend of Vlad the Impaler, whose bloodthirsty history inspired Bran Stoker’s Dracula!

A city of gothic spires, Brasov is the base to visit the castles in Bran and Râșnov and listen to stories about Vlad to Impaler!

Cluj Napoca

Recently ‘discovered’ by tourists Cluj has a vigorous mix of galleries, gardens, cafes, Gothic Churches and medieval towers.

Sibiu has a mix of big architecture and bohemian flair and this city has long been a cultural destination in Romania.

The alleged birth place of Vlad Ţepeş (the Impaler), Sighişoara is a beautiful town full of narrow lanes and medieval architecture.

Located in a dramatic valley the town is visited by hikers in summer and skiers in winter and also for the chief attraction of Peleş Castle.

This large city has an attractive layout of squares and gardens as well as a good range of restaurants and museums.

European Luxury Train Travel: Serbia

Offering some of the best luxury train tours Europe offers, Serbia is a pivotal rail junction in the Balkans and a stop for many of the most luxurious trains in Europe. A landlocked country in the Balkans, Serbia came into being out of the former Yugoslavia in the early 1990s.

Located where the Sava and Danube Rivers meet Belgrade is where the old world meets the new in this forward looking city.

Sargan Vitasi

This place is all about trains and the unusual narrow gauge railway that ran from Sarajevo to Belgrade with the section here restored.

Luxury Rail Holidays In Europe: Slovakia

Slovakia is a landlocked and mountainous country in Central Europe with beautiful cities and incredible natural sights. Slovakia can be visited on the Central European Classics and New Year In Vienna luxury train rides in Europe. The old town of Kosicce is a highlight, as well as Poprad, known as the gateway to the High Tatra mountains.

The old town is the attraction of this city with the greatest collection of Gothic towers, medieval bastions and baroque sculpture in Slovakia.

Poprad is a known as the Gateway to the stunning scenery of the High Tatras and this town makes for a good place to base and explore.

Luxury Train Travel Europe: Slovenia

Slovenia lies in South-Central Europe in the Julian Alps at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea, bordered by Austria to the north and Italy to the west. The country is a stalwart of the best luxury rail travel Europe offers. Slovenia can be visited on the Grand Alpine Express, Venice to Istanbul luxury European train holidays.

Picture perfect and very popular Lake Bled is surrounded by the highest peaks of the Julian Alps and attractive churches and castles.

Slovenia’s capital green and liveable with a pedestrianised centre and fine architecture and bridges crossing the Ljubljanica River.

The Postojna Cave system is the thing to see here. Visitors can walk along 5km of the total 24 km of tunnels full of formations.

Luxury Train Holidays Europe: Spain

The Mediterranean country of Spain needs little introduction and is one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations for its stunning history, cities and culture. Lesser known is its extensive rail network used by luxury overnight trains in Europe. Spain can be visited on the Al Andalus luxury train tours of Europe, visiting Santiago to Seville and the Portuguese capital of Lisbon to Barcelona. More details can be found below.

The old city walls consist of 8 huge gates, 88 watchtowers and 2500 turrets, is one of the best-preserved medieval in Spain.

Discover timeless beauty in its well-preserved medieval quarter, historic monuments, and a rich blend of cultural influences.

Home to some extraordinary islamic architecture, not least the Mezquita, this city also is quintessential Spain and not to be missed.

Leon’s cathedral is one of Spain’s most impressive and largest and at night this city comes alive with bars and restaurants.

Experience the pulsating heart of Spain with world-renowned museums, lively plazas, and an unrivalled culinary scene.

Ourense is known for its hot springs and thermal waters as well as its 12th-century Cathedral and Roman era bridge, the Ponte Romana.

Santiago de Compostela

The final stop on the famed pilgrimage trail of the same name 300,000 pilgrims still walk here to visit the cathedral each year.

Seville is one of Spains most impressive and pleasant cities with grand architecture and an Andalusian culture of food and drink.

Toledo is dramatically sited atop a gorge overlooking the Río Tajo, it was known as the ‘city of three cultures’ in the Middle Ages.

A harmonious blend of futuristic architecture, lush gardens, vibrant festivals, and a rich, historic Old Town.

Luxury Rail Journeys Europe: Switzerland

Landlocked Switzerland offers unique luxury rail journeys in Europe with stunning mountainous scenery and cities and towns rich in a culture influenced by the surrounding countries, including Italy, France, Germany and Austria. Swiss rail is famous for its punctuality and breathtaking engineering feats over mountain passes. Although there are few luxury night train Europe rail tours, the trip does use luxury rolling stock for day trips with nights spent in hotels. Switzerland can be visited on the Grand Alpine Express and Swiss Rail Spectacular tours, making them great luxury European train holidays to be remembered.

SWITZERLAND

Andermatt is a village in the Ursern Valley in the Swiss Alps. The train station is on the route network of the Matterhorn Gotthard Bahn.

Located astride the mighty Rhine river the city is popular for it’s wealth of galleries, museums and iconic buildings.

Switzerland’s capital has a beautiful listed old town of cobbled streets with 6km of covered arcades, cellar shops and bars.

A traditional village overlooking the lake of the same name, this is the quintessential Alpine setting among forests and mountains.

The steep Furka Pass at 2,431m) offers superb views and a memorable train ride during the summer months when the pass is snow free.

The Jungfrau, at 4,158 meters is one of the main summits of the Bernese Alps. From here the views across the Alps are stunning.

Popular with the likes of Goethe, Queen Victoria and Wagner Lucerne is as charming today as in the 19th Century and not to be missed.

Reichenbach Falls

The Reichenbach Falls (of Sherlock Holmes fame) drop over a total height of about 250 metres and are reached by a funicular train.

St Gotthard Pass

The St Gotthard Pass at 2,106 m (6,909 ft) is a mountain pass for road and rail connecting northern with southern Switzerland.

The ultimate Swiss winter resort loved by celebrities and the well-heeled alike. Year round the beautiful lake and scenery can be enjoyed.

Vitznau lies in an idyllic bay of Lake Lucerne at the foot of the Rigi making time well spent to explore the lake and the mountain area.

Zermatt lies at the foot of the famous Matterhorn. The town has preserved its original character and is a car free zone.

The lakeside city of Zürich has the classic Swiss old town (Altstadt) and plenty of bars, art galleries and shopping opportunities.

Luxury Train Journeys Europe: Turkey

Turkey is a country full of wonder and history that straddles Europe and the near Orient and has long been a place of fascination for tourists. Some of the best luxury trains in Europe start of finish in Istanbul, and Turkey can be visited on the Balkan Explorer, Castles of Transylvania, Venice to Istanbul tours.

Istanbul is one of the world’s great cities sitting on the strategic Bosphorus with a skyline that speaks of its long history.

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Our luxury train rides in Europe cover a wide range of destinations from the Iberian Peninsular to the East, Central Europe and the Balkans. Above you will see all the luxury European train holiday destinations covered by our luxury European train tours, and each destination has the tours that visit it below.

How Much Do Luxury Sleeper Trains In Europe Cost?

The luxury train Europe price depends on both the trip chosen and the class of cabin you require. You can find all pricing by clicking on any luxury European train tour above, which will open up the European luxury train trip dossier, which contains pricing, dates, details of the itinerary and cabin classes available for that train. There is a lot of information, so if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us about the European luxury train vacations you are interested in.

What Is The Most Luxurious Train In Europe?

It is often said that the most luxurious train in Europe must be the Orient Express which travels from London to Venice. However, this is a short train trip, and we recommend booking that as a means to get to Venice and start another European luxury train tour on a train like the Danube Express operated by Golden Eagle. These luxury train trips in Europe are much more extensive and complement the Orient Express. We mustn’t forget the luxury trains in Portugal and Spain known as the Al Andalus which we like for its old work decor – to some these could be the most luxurious trains in Europe.

Why Book A European Luxury Train Trip With theluxurytraintravelcompany.com?

We have been offering luxury train vacations in Europe for many years. Our experience in dealing with Luxury Train travel companies and operators allows us to point you towards the best luxury train travel Europe offers. Price, cabin class and route are all important decisions, and we have vast experience and good connections with the luxury rail operators to secure the highly sought-after cabins. We are delighted to assist you in booking your European luxury train and experiencing the best possible luxury train vacation in Europe.

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Europe Holidays

List of services.

Wednesday 29th May to Wednesday 5th June 2024 -   Confirmed !

Travel to the heart of Western Germany and experience enchanting heritage railways embedded in the stunning landscape of the Rhine and Ruhr regions.

Wednesday 12th June to Wednesday 19th June 2024 -   Fully Booked

Discover the outstanding natural beauty of Switzerland on this tour to the Bernese Oberland, famed for its shimmering lakes and soaring Alpine peaks, including the towering Jungfrau and the magnificent Eiger.

Wednesday 3rd July to Wednesday 10th July 2024 - Confirmed!

Paddle steamers, steam trains, mountain railways and, best of all, fantastic Alpine landscapes all feature on this wonderful holiday tour of the Austrian Lake District.

Saturday 6th July to Wednesday 17th July 2024 - Confirmed!

Explore the magnificent Norwegian fjords on this outstanding holiday tour, travelling on one of the finest railway systems in Europe through some of its most stunning scenery.

Saturday 13th July to Monday 22nd July 2024 - Confirmed!

See some of the most important and fascinating WWII sites in the Polish cities and countryside, on a tour that combines history and culture with First Class railway travel, private tramway rides and scenic river cruises.

Wednesday 24th July to Thursday 1st August 2024 - Confirmed!

This new holiday to the Polish coast is packed with several centuries of history, culture, and of course diverse railways. 

Wednesday 4th September to Wednesday 11th September 2024

Thursday 5th September to Wednesday 11th September 2024

Against the backdrop of the stunning Swiss Alps, enjoy glamorous steam locomotives on world famous lines, framed by towering peaks and beautiful glaciers.

Wednesday 18th September to Wednesday 25th September 2024

Experience the splendour of the snow topped Swiss Alps on this spectacular summer holiday.

Thursday 3rd October to Thursday 10th October 2024

Enjoy the famous wine-making region of Alsace in full autumn splendour by steam train on this enchanting holiday in eastern France.

Thursday 3rd October to Friday 11th October 2024

The historic cities of Prague and Olomouc and the rural landscapes of the Czech Republic create a superb backdrop to this unique tour.

Wednesday 16th October to Wednesday 23rd October 2024

Thursday 7th November to Sunday 17th November 2024

Enjoy a fabulous railway holiday along the French Cote d’Azur and the Ligurian Coast in Italy, including exploring the world-famous Cinque Terre.

Thursday 28th November to Friday 6th December 2024

Discover the festive splendour of Christmas Markets in Germany, including the romantic Rhineland and enchanting Harz Mountains.

Sunday 22nd December 2024 to Tuesday 2nd January 2025

Make it a Christmas and New Year to remember as you spend the holiday in a genuine Winter Wonderland, surrounded by the snow-capped Swiss Alps and enchanting Italian lakes.

Thursday 23rd January to Thursday 30th January 2025

Experience the splendour of the snow topped Swiss Alps on this spectacular winter holiday.

Thursday 27th February to Thursday 6th March 2025

Immerse yourself in the breathtaking beauty of snow-capped Swiss Alps on an unforgettable winter adventure.

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The most spectacular European train routes to take in 2024

By Emilee Tombs

“Anything is possible on a train…” wrote Paul Theroux in The Great Railway Bazaar: By Train Through Asia … “a great meal, a binge, a visit from card players, an intrigue, a good night's sleep, and strangers' monologues framed like Russian short stories.” In other words, on a train the journey can be just as good as the destination, when done right. This is certainly true of Europe ’s rail network, which has been busily expanding over the last few years, offering discerning and increasingly sustainability-conscious travellers the opportunity to travel on sleeper trains to and from iconic European cities.

Here, we list some of the best new sleeper trains to take in 2024 and beyond, from the super luxe to more affordable, and the ones with the best views.

St. George's Basilica in Prague

Brussels to Prague on the European Sleeper

The Belgian-Dutch company, European Sleeper, launched in 2021 to ‘connect Europe by night’. With three tiers of cabin (seats, couchettes and sleepers) offering basic but comfortable snoozing options, they certainly make the idea of an overnight journey by train more appealing. The inaugural route from Brussels to Berlin stops in Amsterdam, so you can hop from bar to carriage, bed down for the night and wake up the next day with a pastry and a coffee in hand, while gazing out at the beautiful Elbe Valley in Switzerland. In March 2024, the line was extended to Prague, and European Sleeper plans to roll out a new route each year with connections to Scandinavia in the works.

From €39 (£34) round trip, www.europeansleeper.eu

Iconic Italy on La Dolce Vita Orient Express

The Orient Express needs no introduction, so it’s with great excitement that La Dolce Vita Orient Express will launch eight routes across Italy in 2025. Totalling over 16,000km of track, these routes weave slowly along iconic Italian routes, such as Venezia to Portofino, Sicily and the Italian Riviera. Suite cabins are like hotel rooms, with proper double beds, a sofa, table and two armchairs from which to enjoy the incredible views. There’s also a formal restaurant and a stylish bar, all designed by Dimorestudio as a resplendent ode to the golden age of Hollywood and rail travel. Food is also a key part of the offering, with menus curated by three-Michelin-starred Chef Heinz Beck that reflect the cuisine of the regions the train travels to. Obviously this isn’t a wallet-friendly experience, and given that pre-reservation opened in 2023, a golden ticket might be out of reach for most.

Prices from €2,500 (£2,140) per person per night in a deluxe cabin, and €3,700 (£3,170 per person per night in a suite, www.orient-express.com

Paris to Berlin with ÖBB Nightjet

Working with Swiss Federal Railways and Germany’s Deutsche Bahn, ÖBB has reinvigorated overnight routes linking cities in Vienna, Zürich, Germany, Austria, Italy, Hungary, Poland, the Czech Republic and, more recently, Paris , Brussels and Amsterdam. Since December 2024, Paris to Berlin trains run three times a week on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from Paris, and Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays from Berlin, taking between 13 and 15 hours. While these sleeper trains aren’t winning awards for style or luxe factor, they are comfortable and affordable, with showers and toilets in single and double cabins and a mini cabin option for those looking for the most affordable way to travel.

By Christabel Chubb

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From €29 (£25) for a single journey, www.nightjet.com

Cortina in the Dolomites

Rome to the Dolomites by Espresso Cadore

Before December 2023, the usual way for Italians living in the capital to get to the slopes was to take on an arduous eight-hour drive. But since the state-owned railway network FS Treni Turistici Italiani (TTI) launched the Espresso Cadore, it’s possible to leave Rome on a Friday evening at 9:40 p.m., and arrive at the resort of Calalzo di Cadore near Cortina, just in time for breakfast on Saturday morning. The views as you slide into the Alpine countryside are nothing short of mesmerising and the carriages themselves aren’t too shabby. The Espresso Cadore trains are recommissioned trains from the 1980s and 90s and have a delightfully retro feel as well as hotel-like services such as an all-night bar, in-room dining and a dedicated member of staff. TTI has plans for a Rome to Marseille route to come and Rome to Puglia in time for summer beach sojourns.

Expect to pay somewhere in the region of €160 (£134) for a bunk bed and €385 (£330) for a single cabin, which includes dinner and breakfast, www.trenitalia.com

Paris to Nice by Intercités

In 2023, France introduced new restrictions on air travel; namely, if the journey takes less than two-and-a-half hours by train, then it cannot be taken as a domestic flight. Lucky, then, that the country ’s rail network is a good one. The Paris to Nice sleeper route recently relaunched and makes a weekend minibreak par la mer post-Olympics a perfectly reasonable expectation. Trains depart from Paris Austerlitz at 8.51pm and arrive in Marseille at 6.55am. From there, the train weaves its way along the French Riviera, with the most picturesque parts of the journey viewed from carriages on the right-hand side, with fantastic sea views from Les Arcs all the way to Nice.

From €19 (£16) one way, www.sncf-connect.com

Warsaw to Munich with EuroNight

This is ÖBB again, run in collaboration with other countries’ national railways. EuroNight trains connect Warsaw to Munich via stops in Hungary, Croatia, Poland, Slovakia, the Czech Republic and Germany. The ‘Comfort’ sleeper carriages sleep two in single beds and are basic but have small bathrooms with a shower and a toilet. The approach to Munich as the train coasts through the lush, mountainous Bavarian countryside is the most spectacular part of the journey, and as you arrive in Munich at 10am you’ve the morning to really take it all in.

Expect to pay around €35 (£30) for a one way ticket, www.nightjet.com

By Lise Funderburg , Allix Cott and Jessica Cherner

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All Aboard the Most Beautiful Rail Routes in Europe

Posted: November 21, 2023 | Last updated: November 22, 2023

Terrific trains

With so many countries to explore – each offering vastly different landscapes and scenery – Europe almost seems custom-built for train travel. So it’s little wonder that the continent is covered in a huge network of brilliant railways, most of which are affordable and easy to navigate. From routes along the alpine slopes of Switzerland to Italian coastal villages and dramatic Nordic fjords, here are our favorites. (Ticket prices are correct at the time of writing, but do check individual operators for the most up-to-date information.)

Trenino Verde, Sardinia, Italy

Translating to 'little green train', the Trenino Verde is a sublime – and surprisingly little-known – way to see the Sardinian countryside. This 130-year-old vintage railway has five different routes across the country, totaling 272 miles (438km) of track, which pass through a treasure trove of landscapes, including olive groves, quaint villages, glittering seas, craggy coastlines and steep peaks. 

West Highland Line, Scotland, UK

It’s little wonder that ScotRail's  West Highland Line is often dubbed Britain's most scenic train route, with rugged Highland landscapes, rolling hills and windswept moorlands galore. But the most picture-perfect (and famous) section of the rail line, which runs between the cities of Glasgow and Mallaig, is the part where the train crosses the Glenfinnan Viaduct. Recognize it? That’s because it’s the same bridge the Hogwarts Express crosses in the Harry Potter films.

For an even more authentic Harry Potter experience, you can travel across the famous viaduct on the Jacobite steam train , which is used in the films. The seasonal service typically runs between early April and late October each year, covering the 84-mile (135km) round trip between Fort William and Mallaig in leisurely style. It’s a little more expensive than the ScotRail line, with an adult return costing $61. The ScotRail service line starts at around $19 for an off-peak day return.

Belgrade, Serbia to Bar, Montenegro

There aren’t a whole lot of options for exploring the famously bus-heavy Balkans by rail, but this legendary 10-hour journey takes in some of the best scenery Serbia, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Montenegro have to offer. That includes this eye-wateringly high bridge, which teeters 656 feet (200m) above the Mala Rijeka viaduct (until 2001 it was the highest railway bridge in the world). But it’s one of just 435 bridges along the route – necessary to cross all the mountains and gorges. 

Beginning at the Serbian capital, the train rattles past wide, flat fields and distant mountains, before stopping at Užice in the country’s southwest. Next, it hurtles towards Podgorica in Montenegro, skimming along the shores of Lake Skadar before finishing up at the coastal town of Bar. There's a daytime departure and a night train too, and tickets are reported to cost just $21, although you can’t book online. 

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The Glacier Express, Switzerland

Connecting the mountain resorts of Zermatt and St Moritz, the Glacier Express is a brilliant way of seeing some of the most beautiful views in the Swiss Alps. The scenic route takes in sights including the Oberalp Pass, the highest point of the journey, and the Landwasser Viaduct (pictured) – a six-arch bridge which stands at 213 feet (65m) and plunges straight into a tunnel that leads through the mountain. 

The day-long trip covers 91 tunnels and 291 bridges, and offers the chance to take in alpine meadows, mountain lakes and chalets. You might expect such a stunning train ride to cost huge sums of money, but the journey will only set you back around $156 for a one-way, second-class ticket. Now the only decision is whether to travel in summer, when you’ll get to see the region covered in vibrant green trees and colorful wildflowers, or winter, when the alpine landscapes are blanketed in frost and snow. 

Barcelona to Montserrat, Spain

The storied mountaintop monastery of Montserrat is one of the most gorgeous parts of Catalonia – but did you know you can reach it by train? The ToT Montserrat is an ultra-scenic route which runs between Barcelona and the foothills of the peak, at which point you can choose between taking the cable car (Aeri) or the rack railway (Cremallera) up to the Montserrat Monastery. Whichever option you go for, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping vistas across the rugged valley.

A round-trip ticket, which includes either the Aeri or Cremallera option, costs $65 and takes around an hour and a half in total. If you want to go even higher, hitch a ride on the Saint Joan funicular (pictured) which is included in the price of your ticket and takes you from the monastery right up to the top of the mountain.

Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, UK to Italy

For a no-expense-spared, once-in-a-lifetime trip, look no further than this route between London and Verona. With an aim to evoke the romance and grandeur of old-school railway journeys, the stunning Art Deco  Venice Simplon-Orient-Express is a chance to see rolling Italian countryside and iconic European cities in style. The new European ‘Grand Tour’ routes also include stops in Rome and Florence, and stretches to Switzerland, Belgium and the Netherlands too, with options to add hotel stays.

There are six Grand Suites on the train and each one is uniquely decorated to reflect a different city (Vienna, Prague, Paris, Istanbul, Venice and Budapest). Expect plenty of period features, delicate light fixtures, polished cherrywood marquetry and marble en suite bathrooms. Michelin-starred food (including Brittany lobsters and salt marsh lamb from Mont St Michel) is served from three dining cars. As if all that wasn’t decadent enough, there’s also a 24-hour butler onboard.

Discover more of the world's most luxurious train journeys

Flåm Railway, Norway

Traveling between Myrdal and Flåm in western Norway, the Flåm Railway is among the most historic and beautiful journeys in Europe. The route was built between 1923 and 1940 to serve villages along the Sognefjord. In fact, it’s one of the steepest rail journeys on the planet, dropping 2,844 feet (867m) during its 12-mile (20km) route, with 20 tunnels traveling through the steep mountains. Along the way, you’ll get to see everything from waterfalls to mighty lakes and mountains.

Mariazell Railway, Austria

Captured here in the golden-tinged glory of early fall, Austria’s Mariazell Railway is a fine way to see the picturesque Pielach Valley. The journey begins at St Pölten, the capital of the Lower Austria region, snaking its way southwards through 21 tunnels and across 19 viaducts before arriving at Mariazell. The so-called ‘Stairway to Heaven’ is Austria’s longest narrow-gauge railway, covering a distance of around 56 miles (91km) in just over two hours.

There are three options for those wishing to experience the storied route. Either take the modern Himelstreppe (pictured), which departs daily and starts from just $19. Or book a ticket on the first-class panorama carriage, which runs April to October and over Christmas, boasting 360-degree views and a first-class catering service. Alternatively, for a historic experience check out the historic Ötscherbär adventure train, powered by a century-old electric locomotive, with themed journeys for families.

Rauma Line, Norway

Few places on Earth have as much dramatic scenery as Norway and the Rauma Line is a great way to experience it. The one hour and 40-minute journey begins in the village of  Dombås, taking in the historic towns and mountain farms of the Gudbrandsdalen valley before entering the steep and rugged Romsdalen valley. It then passes over the famous Kylling Bridge and cruises past Trollveggen mountain before arriving at its final destination, Åndalsnes.

If you’re ending your journey in Åndalsnes, there’s no shortage of things to do in the fjord town. Hop on the Romsdalen Gondola for more epic views across the valley, enjoy a bite to eat at the panoramic Eggen Restaurant or lace up your hiking boots and explore one of the region’s many walking trails. Tickets can be purchased from SJ NORD and start from around $20 each way.

Mountain Spirit, Wales, UK

 Dating back more than 150 years, North Wales’  Mountain Spirit  service was rejuvenated in 1982, following a three decade-long restoration. The nostalgic steam train journey begins in the charming village of Blaenau Ffestiniog, crossing over the Cob embankment and climbing up the valley past woodlands and fields, before stopping at pretty Tan-y-Bwlch. The scenic 13.5-mile (21.7km)  journey ends in Porthmadog, a port town and narrow-gauge railway hub.

Those who board the historic train will be rewarded with its gorgeous vintage interiors, complete with comfortable seats and huge windows for admiring the scenery. Tickets start at $93 for a return ticket for two adults, with a there-and-back journey taking around three hours. 

Marvel at incredible images that capture the history of train travel

La Rhune, France

You’d be hard-pressed to find a much more adorable train journey than this. Located in France’s captivating Basque Country, the Rhune Railway (or Le Petit Train de la Rhune) is a fabulous cog railway which takes passengers on a 35-minute ascent up to the 2,969-foot (905m) summit of its namesake mountain. The picture-perfect chestnut-wood carriages have been navigating this steep section of track since 1924.

Odontotos Rack Railway, Greece

Operating on the world’s narrowest gauge track – just a hair-raising two-and-a-half feet (0.75m) wide – southern Greece’s Odontotos Rack Railway is a stunning and historic way to experience the Peloponnese Gorge. Starting in the coastal town of Diakopto, it runs alongside the Vouraikos River, through rock-hewn tunnels and next to adrenalin-pumping sheer drops before arriving at the mountain town of Kalavrita. 

The leisurely one-hour journey covers a total distance of 14 miles (22.5km) but there are an impressive 49 bridges in total, plus six tunnels which have been carved directly into the rock. As well as being jaw-droppingly scenic and historic (the train has been in operation for over 120 years), Odontos Rack Railway is also a total bargain, costing just over $9.50 for a single or $19 for a return trip. 

Here are more stunning train journeys that don't cost a fortune

Inlandsbanan, Sweden

Slicing through Sweden from top to bottom, the Inlandsbanan should be top of all rail buffs’ wish lists. This epic 807-mile (1,200km) track stretches between Kristinehamn in the south and Gällivare in the north, passing from relatively flat green fields through alpine forests and the perennially snowy mountains of Lapland. Naturally, such a monumental journey takes a while to complete, with the typical itinerary taking nine days to cover the full route.

North York Moors Railway, England, UK

Whisking you back to the golden era of train travel, the 24-mile (39km), 1h 45min journey between Whitby and Pickering in the north of England promises to be a trip to remember. This steam-powered railway has been around since the 1830s and received a new lease of life in 1967, when a group of local volunteers took on the task of restoring it. 

For the ultimate luxury experience, hop aboard the Pullman dining carriage, where you can enjoy either a four-course dinner service or three-course lunch as the train ambles through the countryside. Unmissable attractions along the way include the 1930s-era Pickering station, Goathland, which served as Hogsmeade Station in Harry Potter and the Philosopher’s Stone , as well as the historic port of Whitby where the journey ends. The train runs from April to October every year and tickets on the dining car start at $84. 

The Brocken, Germany

Named after the 3,747-foot (1,142m) mountain which it traverses, central Germany’s Brocken Railway is all sweeping panoramas and serpentine bends. This 11-mile (19km) branch of track, connecting the mountain to the Harz railway, is still operated by historic steam locomotives, since this part of Germany was behind the Iron Curtain for decades and its trains were never modernized. But that’s good news for rail buffs, who come here to experience the decades-old carriages in all their glory.

The 50-minute ascent packs in plenty of mesmerizing views, across towering forests, vibrant green meadows and distant peaks, traveling at speeds of up to 25 miles per hour (40km/h). Inside, carriages have back-to-back seats with large windows for gazing out of – or you can head to one of the open-air viewing platforms for optimum vistas. The journey between Drei Annen Hohne and Brocken starts at $50 for an adult return. 

Now take a look at beautiful images of the world's train stations

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This Map Shows How Far You Can Travel Europe by Train in 8 Hours or Less

T here’s plenty to say about riding the train being a better way to travel than flying, especially in Europe: It’s more convenient, it’s more comfortable, there’s no luggage restriction, there’s no security line, it’s better for the planet , etc. One aspect of train travel that worries travelers, however, is how long it takes to get from one place to another. While some train routes, like the Eurostar between London and Amsterdam , or the high-speed train that runs between Paris to Zurich , are just as fast as flying, riding the rails can sometimes be slow.

Pressed-for-time travelers who like to plan their train trips well ahead, as well as those who fancy spontaneous day trips to unknown destinations, can make good use of Chronotrains’ fantastic interactive map which shows how far you can travel in eight hours or less by train anywhere in Europe. By just hovering your mouse above a point on the website’s isochrone map, you can see the areas you can visit by train within a certain time period, with one hour being the minimum and eight hours being the maximum.

Once you’ve chosen your point of departure, you can zoom in on the area and see all the destinations at your disposal within the time frame you selected, with the route highlighted in blue, the exact time it takes to get there displayed, etc.

The maps below show all the train travel options from Paris within an eight-hour time period, including lesser-known and underrated French cities like Brest and Reims, as well as international destinations like Barcelona, Amsterdam, Berlin, London, Luxembourg, etc.

Once you’ve chosen your destination, Chronotrains will give you an idea of the price that your trip will cost and provide the links to the websites you need to make a booking.

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My four-day rail and ferry adventure from the UK to Albania

From London to Tirana, via Chambéry’s medieval streets, bustling Bari and Albania’s dynamic capital, this trip across Europe has treats at every turn

M y overriding memories of crossing countries by train, on a trip from London to Albania, are of half-empty carriages and countryside sweeping past windows bathed in the soft orange glow of sunset. I remember cypress trees, red-roofed villages with square churches, farmland in neat strips and row upon row of vineyards.

On my London-Paris-Chambéry-Turin-Bari-Tirana journey over land and sea, there was, for long stretches, little to do. The wifi was patchy. It took a while to adapt to having so much time to simply watch the world go by, travelling through landscapes without having to navigate them.

The biggest stress happened long before I set off, when a landslide not far from the French border with Italy blocked the rail line between Chambéry and Turin, forcing a closure that continues today. Byway, the no-fly operator I had booked with, offered to reroute me through Nice and on to Turin via the Vermenagna valley (with changes in Tende and Cuneo), or book me on the FlixBus service over part of the Mont Blanc massif. I was keen to see Chambéry and the Alps, so I chose the bus.

People seemed surprised when I told them I was travelling overland to Albania. As I gushed about the romance of slow travel by train and sleeper ferry, and my excitement about Tirana, I got comments about being “brave”. I didn’t feel especially brave: all the planning, tickets and hotel bookings were done for me, and friendly help was a WhatsApp call away if needed.

I just had to download the Rail Planner app for my Interrail pass and make sure I was at the right station at the right time (Turin was the biggest challenge: it has four main railway stations and taxis scream between them bearing anxious-looking passengers).

The entire journey took four days. If I did it all again, I’d stay longer in Puglia, the heel of Italy’s boot – and remember to buy my Paris Métro ticket from the cafe on the Eurostar.

Day one: London to Chamb éry

First to Paris’s Gare du Nord, then the metro to Gare de Lyon, where I make a beeline for a cafe opposite the station. Noise pervades the pavement tables of Café Terminus, but the cacophony is delightful – an atmospheric place for a citron pressé .

I’m in plenty of time for the train to Chambéry and, excitingly, am on the upper deck. Soon, we break free from the suburbs to trace huge stands of forest. Beyond Lyon begins a ripple of hills, lazy rivers and thickly forested slopes. As evening approaches, it’s all Alpine scenery. I arrive at an almost-empty station and walk to the boutique Hotel des Princes in Chambéry’s old town.

Chambéry has an Italian feel – it was the seat of the House of Savoy before the dynasty moved on to Turin – and its medieval alleys, cathedral and pastel-coloured townhouses are quietly impressive. The 1838 Fontaine des Éléphants sits in the middle of the closest square to the old town, and peeking from the end of every street are the Bauges and Chartreuse mountain ranges. My stay is peaceful and easy.

Day two: Chamb éry to Turin

From Chambéry, the train to Turin would take about 2½ hours, but the bus takes double this. I’m on the top deck again, which is worth it for the sight of misty fingers of early morning light breaking across the mountain ridge. Snoozing backpackers rouse themselves to snap pictures of remote Mont Blanc peaks, before slumbering once more through the tunnel to Italy. In Turin there’s perfume in the air from the blossom-covered trees.

Turin’s grid of long, straight boulevards is testament to its development by the Romans – the redbrick Palatine Gate is another Roman relic – and its grand piazzas, royal palaces and graffitied colonnades date from the city’s Savoy heyday in the 16th and 17th centuries. Today, the number one attraction is the Museo Egizio (Egyptian Museum).

My favourite moments? Ricotta and fig ice-cream on Piazza San Carlo, an aperitivo on off-the-beaten-path Via Sant’Agostino and the towering neoclassical Mole Antonelliana (national museum of cinema). I eat Turin’s famous doughy pizza al padellino (pan pizza) and spend a comfortable night in the eaves of Hotel Urbani in 19th-century residential streets close to the grand Porta Nuova train station.

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Day three: Turin to Bari

The views from my next train are of cinematic Tuscan scenes. Scorched fields, vines and Italian cypress trees. Neat red roofs and shabby-chic farmhouses. Fluffy clouds cling to hills that Google Maps tells me are the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. After hours of soothing golden landscapes, the opal-blue Adriatic wallops into view just north of Ancona. Beach bars whip by and cypress trees are replaced with palm trees: I’ve arrived in the south of Italy.

Bari is hands down my favourite stop. The noise, heat and energy as we step off the train in the early evening are joyous. After Chambéry and Turin, Bari feels brash, a little rough around the edges even; a proper port city. The labyrinthine alleyways of the whitewashed old town are almost cliched in their cuteness. Despite the troupes of tightly packed headphone-wearing Americans following guided tours, it somehow manages to retain a tranquil atmosphere.

Old ladies yawn from the shade as tourists surreptitiously snap pictures and laundry flutters from balconies. I could stay for ever, but after 24 hours (which includes a lot of pasta, a stroll along the posh promenade to the not-so-posh city beach and a night in an elegant aparthotel, Residence Zodiacus , halfway between the station and the old town), it’s time to board the night ferry to Albania.

Day (and night) four: Bari to Tirana

I arrive at the ferry on foot and am escorted through the car deck to jokes about going in the wrong direction (to Albania, instead of from it). In the early morning I spot a pink sky through the cracked window of my comfy en suite cabin, and head to the top deck to see the sun rise over the distant outline of Albania. Disembarking in the port of Durrës is a bit of a scrum and there’s a bus to the capital waiting, but I opt instead for a five-minute taxi ride to the centre of town and breakfast of pastries and espresso on a dazzling white road lined with boutiques and palm trees. I later regret this though, as the aircon on the grubby public bus I eventually take to Tirana is more tired than I am, and drops me in an urban sprawl miles from the centre.

Tirana itself is a revelation. My hotel, Padam Boutique , is a grand villa with handsome rooms and floor-to-ceiling windows, and there’s striking new skyward architecture on every nearby street. A short stroll away is the landmark Pyramid of Tirana , which stands as a symbol and monument to change (and is fun to climb at sunset). Skanderbeg Square – a jumble of buildings erected on a roundabout at the time of the celebrations to mark the fall of communism in 1992 – is now a pedestrianised, glossy public space. There are nods to Albania’s recent, wretched history behind the iron curtain, of course – the Bunk’Art and Bunk’Art 2 museums, in nuclear bunkers are unmissable – but Tirana and the country are more than just the last century. My journey is done, but it feels like Tirana is just getting into its stride.

The trip was provided by Byway , which offers sustainable travel and accommodation packages across the UK and Europe. Its Alps to Albania trip costs from £679pp

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Europe's Most Spectacular New Hotel Is Set in a Former WWII Railway Station

High in the mountains between Spain and France, a long-neglected train station has become an opulent hotel.

Simon Willis is a contributing writer for Travel + Leisure. For the magazine he has crisscrossed Europe, Asia and Latin America. Particularly drawn to remote places, he has filed features from Patagonia, Laos and the Southern Ocean among other destinations.

Denisse Ariana Pérez

A few years ago , I was flicking through a magazine when I saw a photo essay about abandoned train stations. They were images of sublime squalor. The grand Greco-Roman columns of Michigan Central Station in Detroit were covered with graffiti. The Art Deco posters on the walls of the St.-Martin Métro in Paris were gradually peeling away. But the most haunting place in the collection was Estación Canfranc, high in the Spanish Pyrenees.

From the outside, this 790-foot-long Beaux-Arts palace looked like it had been transplanted from a fashionable Parisian boulevard. When it was completed in 1925, Canfranc was the second-largest rail station in Europe, after the one in Leipzig, Germany. Inside, the structure had cathedral-like proportions, as though it had been erected not merely to facilitate train travel but to worship it. Huge arched windows let in shafts of beneficent light. The ticket counter could almost pass for an altar. But by the time the photo essay was published, the congregation was long gone. The building closed in 1970 and had been empty ever since. Its vaulted ceiling was slowly moldering, and the floor was covered in dust and debris.

Related: This Little-known Wine Region Is a Hidden Gem of Spain — and It Has a Gorgeous New Luxury Hotel

Now the travelers are back. One recent afternoon I arrived in Canfranc to check in to the station, which has been transformed into one of Europe’s most spectacular new hotels. Its scale and grandeur are incongruous, given that Canfranc is a remote mountain hamlet near the border of Spain and France. The town, which sits in a narrow valley enclosed by steep, forested slopes, has a population of only 600. 

After the station closed, Canfranc lured only a trickle of adventure lovers, drawn by glorious summer hiking and two tiny ski resorts farther up the valley. But today, the hotel is a destination in itself. The renovation is the work of the Barceló Hotel Group, who took over the derelict building in 2021. The Spanish firm has given the place a train-centric revamp that balances old-world glamour with contemporary style. As I checked in, I stood gaping at the old ticket hall, which now serves as the hotel lobby. Its polished wooden beams shone with a deep luster, and the ornate plasterwork on the walls was as clean and white as confectioner’s sugar.

When it was completed in 1925, Canfranc was the second-largest rail station in Europe, after the one in Leipzig, Germany. Inside, the structure had cathedral-like proportions, as though it had been erected not merely to facilitate train travel but to worship it.

In the station’s locomotive heyday, its north and south wings were occupied, respectively, by French and Spanish customs officials. Now the southern wing houses a bar and restaurant tricked out in Art Deco shades of green and gold; the bar is illuminated by pendant lamps that resemble train wheels. In the rooms, antique station windows have been refurbished as quirky wall art.

Yet the hotel’s brand of nostalgic luxury is only one reason to visit; the other is its history. The village of Canfranc may be tiny and remote, but its border location has given it an outsize strategic importance for centuries. The evidence is everywhere. After I arrived at the hotel I headed outside and looked north up the valley. Perched on a ridge high above me was a 16th-century fortress that the Spanish rebuilt after Napoleon’s invasion in 1808; they wanted to defend against another possible incursion through this mountain pass. At the other end I could see concrete bunkers, erected for the same reason by the Franco regime in 1944. As well as being a luxurious stop on the route between Paris and Madrid, the station has played a prominent role in the valley’s history of intrigue and espionage. 

Later that afternoon, I met with Ana Badino and Marcelo Boveri, an Argentine couple who moved from Madrid to the Canfranc region in 2020 to enjoy a quieter life in the mountains. Since then, they have immersed themselves in the station’s extraordinary history and now run tours around the valley.

Until the 20th century, this corner of northern Spain was seen as poor and backward. The main economic activity was smuggling: alcohol and cigarettes went from Spain to France, and clothes, clocks, tea, and embroidery went the other way. But the locals wanted more opportunity than contraband provided, and the government wanted to take this roguish part of the country and turn it into a legitimate, modern commercial hub. So in 1912, the government commissioned the station as a statement of ambition and advancement. Fernando Ramírez de Dampierre, a Madrid-born engineer, was hired to design it. Both the president of France and the king of Spain were present at the inauguration ceremony in 1928.

For a few years, life in Canfranc was full of commercial activity. Daily trains from Portugal delivered port wine, cocoa, and coffee imported from Brazil. Industrial goods like coal and aluminum arrived from France. Badino and Boveri pointed out the rusted, obsolete cranes behind the station; they once loaded and unloaded this cargo. 

But when war broke out in 1939, everything changed. As Bodina and Boveri explained, the head of the station’s French customs department was a man named Albert Le Lay. He was more than a mere border official. He was a vital member of the French resistance who used his position at the station to help Jews and allied fighters fleeing persecution and capture in Germany and Vichy France. Now remembered as an Oskar Schindler–like figure, Le Lay provided these fugitives with forged papers to help them cross into Spain and on to Portugal. From there they traveled to safety. The identities of Le Lay’s beneficiaries are hard to trace, but according to some historians, those who passed through Canfranc included Max Ernst and Peggy Guggenheim.

Bodina and Boveri led me a little farther down the valley, which is still crisscrossed by old railway lines. Eventually we came to a row of derelict warehouses, their heavy wooden doors bent and buckled from decades of neglect, their roofs full of holes where high winds had ripped the tiles away. Through the gaps we peered into the dark interiors. In one of the buildings, in 2000, a cache of Nazi paperwork was found that listed items the Germans had moved through Canfranc after the Gestapo occupied the station in 1942. They included looted gold bars and opium.

His job as a customs official gave Le Lay the cover he needed to continue his resistance work. He would receive information from agents masquerading as passengers as they arrived at the station. From there, messages were transported by a network of spies down the train line to Zaragoza, the nearest city. Canfranc, then, was a crucial node in a pan-European network of spies that helped disrupt the German war machine.

Like many travelers to Canfranc today, I arrived via the airport in Zaragoza, the regional capital. Zaragoza is an underrated destination compared with Barcelona, Madrid, and Seville. Following the Umayyad invasion from North Africa in the eighth century, it became a major city in the north of Muslim Spain. At its center is a Moorish fortress, the Aljafería Palace, which is built in a magnificent architectural fusion of European and Islamic styles known as Mudejar. On the bank of the Erbo River, which courses through Zaragoza, stands a monumental Baroque basilica whose central dome is surrounded by four towers. But for me, the biggest lure was the opportunity to admire the art of the area’s most famous son, Francisco Goya.

After spending the night at the NH Collection Gran Hotel de Zaragoza, I walked over to the Goya Museum. It’s a small institution that packs a big punch. The star attractions are Goya’s etchings, displayed in a large, crepuscular room that protects these delicate artworks from light damage.

Goya’s etchings rank among his strangest and most personal pieces. “Los Caprichos,” a series of 80 prints, is a pitch-black satire on religious hypocrisy, corruption, and superstition. These images feature grotesque goblins dressed as clergymen; a donkey in an aristocrat’s silk coat studying his family tree; a woman pulling teeth from the mouth of a hanged man to be used as lucky charms. In another series, “The Disasters of War,” the devilish comedy of “Los Caprichos ” is replaced by documentary horror. The etchings captured the violence of conflicts like the Peninsular War, which ravaged Spain between 1808 and 1814.

From Zaragoza I drove two hours across the tinder-dry plains of northern Spain to Jaca, a compact city with a Romanesque cathedral. It dates from the 11th century, when the king of Aragon decided to turn his territory into a stopping point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, 500 miles to the west. Pilgrimage was good business: you had to be wealthy to take several months off work and pay your way across Europe. Jaca did well from the foot traffic. In the Middle Ages, the road outside the cathedral passed 16 shoe shops.

Related: How To Plan the Perfect Trip To Madrid

After a meal of venison carpaccio at a small restaurant, La Cocina, I drove into the mountains to Canfranc. Having been cooped up in the car, I wanted to explore the landscape, so the following morning I met up with Fernando Garrido, a wiry mountain guide with silver hair and a deep tan. Garrido, a partner in a Jaca-based company, Aragon Aventura, is a serious mountaineer. For 30 years he has held the world record for spending the most time at high altitude: he stayed, alone, for two months straight on the summit of Mount Aconcagua, in Argentina, at an altitude of more than 22,000 feet. 

Thankfully, our plan was more down to earth. It was a blue and shimmering Sunday, and we decided to head to Ordesa & Mount Perdido National Park, a 90-minute drive southeast of Canfranc. We hiked into a deep canyon, following the course of a river that had been reduced to a slow trickle by a two-month drought. The canyon’s sheer limestone walls rose almost 3,000 feet, and birds of prey circled on the thermals. 

Yet the hotel’s brand of nostalgic luxury is only one reason to visit; the other is its history. The village of Canfranc may be tiny and remote, but its border location has given it an outsize strategic importance for centuries. The evidence is everywhere.

As we walked, Garrido pointed out the fajas, the narrow paths that run along the cliff edges. Looking at the thin lines they traced across the rock, I couldn’t help thinking about those wartime refugees I had heard about in Canfranc. During the German occupation, the route became more perilous, and despite Le Lay’s help, many were arrested at the station. In hopes of avoiding the authorities, thousands walked across the Pyrenees on foot, clinging to these narrow, cliff-edge paths as they searched for safety.

That night, I sat down to dinner at Canfranc Estación’s Restaurant Internacional, which is run by Eduardo Salanova and Ana Acín. Chef Salanova’s food is a fusion of local ingredients and avant-garde presentation. That evening’s 15-course tasting menu included foie gras with strawberries, local caviar, a terrine poached in mulled wine, and sous-vide eggs. (Another restaurant, Canfranc Express, opened after my visit in a restored train car outside the hotel, and has since been awarded a Michelin star.)

As I ate, a fog descended over the valley and a gentle rain began to fall. Through the window I could see the silhouettes of Canfranc’s old cargo warehouses and, beyond them, the wooded hillsides. Sitting there in the warm glow, I thought back to the stories my Argentine guides had told me — about the secret agents running messages through this building, about the villagers sewing notes into the linings of their clothes to protect them from the Gestapo. The setting was worthy of a wartime spy thriller, and as I sat in the opulent dining room I imagined myself waiting not for my dessert to arrive but for a tap on the shoulder from a clandestine contact bearing important papers and, along with them, a chance of freedom. 

Where to Stay

Canfranc estación, a royal hideaway hotel.

This spectacular mountain hotel is worth a trip in itself. Tours of the property and the surrounding valley can be arranged through the concierge.

NH Collection Gran Hotel De Zaragoza

Previous guests at this imposing hotel in the center of town include Walt Disney and Ernest Hemingway. Stop by the excellent restaurant, La Ontina, for seasonal dishes like braised white asparagus.

Where to Eat

Jaca la cocina.

A small but stylish restaurant in Jaca that serves regional dishes like venison carpaccio and olla jacetana, a stew of beans and pork.

Aragon Aventura

Fernando Garrido, my hiking guide, co-owns this Jaca-based adventure company . He offers walking excursions as well as a range of other mountain activities, including canyoning and snowshoeing.

Goya Museum

This small museum in Zaragoza has the world’s finest collection of Goya’s etchings.

Pirineo Esencial

Knowledgeable guides Ana Badino and Marcelo Boveri offer tours of Canfranc and the surrounding valley .

A version of this story first appeared in the May 2024 issue of  Travel + Leisure  under the headline "Full Speed Ahead."