trek madone 3.1 carbon fiber road bike 56

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Trek Madone 3.1 Road Bike

World-class carbon performance starts here. For the discriminating sport-level rider who wants to squeeze every ounce of performance out of his/her budget.

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Carbon fiber and rear cassette were my main reason of getting rid of my Focus bike. The difference was amazing, I find the ride way more comfortable and since I mainly do hills, going from a 26 to a 30 rear cassette was like day and night and the Trek is almost 3 lbs. lighter. Makes climbing ALMOST a joy.

Man, those Bontrager wheels are the worst set of rims of my previous two bikes. Like riding with the brakes on. Put on some Forte's off my old bike and made a big difference. The seat isn't really a problem in fact it's no different than my other ones. Front shifter is OK the back 105 is better and the brakes seem OK.

After upgrading the wheel set the bike is something I look forward to ride for many miles. I like it!

A very light bike that handles well on all roads. Gearing is quite good too. A strong bike that gives you plenty of confidence. It looks well and has a very nice hard finish that stands up well to all kinds of road wear.

I find the saddle a real pain over long distances (50km+), I've decided to change it for something a bit easier on the butt!! The wheels are heavy and a bit of a 'let down' in comparison to the rest of the components and also the brakes could do with an upgrade.

The bike is good value for money and handles very well. It's a pity that they did not go 'the extra mile' regarding the wheels, I would recommend this bike over some of its rivals, but I feel that there is room for improvement! Wingman

Great climber, stiff bottom bracket, very comfortable ride. Did I mention it's a great climber? Wow

None so far

This is for the 2013 model. My last bike was Cannnondale CAAD10, which was amazing ride as well, but unfortunately ended up being too stiff for anything past 40-50 miles. So in comes the Madone, and I am very, very happy with the decision. The geometry places me in a more upright position, but still allows me to be aero on the drops. The three places it excels at are on hilly descents, climbs and long rides. I was really impressed with the power transfer when going up several steep hills around here, and equally impressed on the way down. The ride is very composed, if the makes any sense, and allows you to just relax and ride. Just fy--- I got rid of the stock seatpost and handlebars, and also switched out the Bontrager wheels to my existing Shimano RS80 wheelset. That made a huge difference, and the bike potential really came out.

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Bikes I've owned--- Giant TCR Composite, Cannondale Carbon Synapse, Cannondale CAAD10

The quality and the comfort of frame is very good The price is affordable

the front derailleur is Tiagra istead of 105

I wanted a bike that can be ridden year round over many kilometers and I now Got it!

For an entry level Carbon Road Bike the 3.1 is great value for money It's light and feels realy strong with a very smooth ride the 2012 model looks fantastic

None realy i'd recomend this bike to any one starting out road riding The same components for the handlebars to rear wheels would be good but they must mix and match to keep the price down

This bike is a pleasure to ride overall i could'nt be happier it seams perfect for the distance i cover 50 to 100 ks rides ( by the way i cant find a problem with the saddle it works well in my part of the world )

Light and tossable, handles bumpy roads much better than a metal frame

Saddle is hard and Wheels seem heavy when climbing

I got back into riding after about 11 years. While my 2000 model year Trek 2000 was a nice bike, I always felt it was too big for me (58cm frame) so when I found a new 2010 Madone 3.1 (56cm frame) on sale for under $1500 at my LBS in Oct 2012, I jumped on it. I could immediately feel the difference with how well the Madone cushions the bumps. and how much lighter it felt than the 2000 (even though the weight difference probably isn't very much). I'm finding the Madone to be great for the New Hampshire hills. I only got in about 250 road miles on it before the cold and snow came, but I'm very happy with the bike in general. so far. I upgraded the saddle to a Fi'zi:k Aliante after the first 100 miles or so because the stock saddle was a brick. The wheels are cheap and heavy and those are the only other planned upgrades. I would buy this bike again.

Very comfortable ride, I did a lot of research before purchasing my new bike and the 3.1 ticked all the boxes, the write up suggested a bike that could be ridden all day long and after my first journey out of 50 miles it didn't dissapoint. Very smooth stable and comfortable. The seat is hard but must suit my bum as I had no problems with it

Great bike buy one

Looks, weight, handling, climbing, brakes.

I'm no pro, I'm a born again cyclist (in my late 40s now) but I did a ton of research before settling for the Trek 3.1. I simply cannot fault it other than a pretty hard seat, which a good pair of cycling shorts will negate. Very smooth ride, hugely quick acceleration, admiring looks wherever I go on it and very light (I weighed it on our digital scales including pedals and water bottle holder it's under 8.5kg). Newer models can't really improve much so I went for a 2011 unused model and saved £400 ($650) what a bargain!

Ton of bike for $$$. Super comfy drivetrain. Great climber. Looks great. Easy to ride. Feels stable at speed.

Stock seat is a brick. Paint seems thin and scratches easier than most. 105 components can be noisy.

I own an older Cannondale aluminum and a Trek 5200 carbon bike, so that's what I have to compare them too. After riding the 3.1, I don't think you can do much better for $2,000. The frame is super comfy. The carbon frame absorbs bad roads wonderfully. Felt like a more expensive bike. Super stable going 40mph downhill. The compact gearing and 11/28 made huge hills easy work. My own complaints: I'm used to Shimano Ultegra, so the downgrade to 105 gear was noticeable. Nothing wrong with 105s, but they feel industrial compared to silkier, smoother more expensive components. Biggest complaint: the seat is awful! Every reviewer agrees that you will want your own seat! I'm giving a 4 instead of a 5 because of the seat and I prefer better than 105 components. If you are looking for your first carbon bike, or first bike, then get this one. Other than the easily replacable seat, you won't find a better deal or better bike. Just buy it! Even if you hate cycling later, you could sell this bike and get most of your $$$ back.

Just changed the stock Bontrager tires on my Trek Madone 3.1 to Continental Gatorskins at 550 miles. Gatorskins are much faster rolling and better grip in cornering. Plus, the Gatorskins are thicker with more belts for added flat avoidance. Although I didn't have any flats on the original tires during the 550 miles I rode the R1 Bontrager tires.

As previously stated the stock seat is very hard and uncomfortable....I changed it as well.

Great bike for the price. Most carbon bikes are much more money and the Shimano components work well. Shifts smoothly and brakes strong. Light and fast.

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• Rider Notes

2011 Trek Madone 3.1

A carbon frame aero bike with upper mid-range components and rim brakes.

For This Bike

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A bike with lower gearing will be easier to ride up steep hills, while a higher top end means it will pedal faster down hills.

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I've made it here to Liege to chase a little bike race around France, but before I begin Trek was kind enough to invite me to their new Madone launch. And I'm glad they did. Besides having a lot of fun, I've had the opportunity to meet many of the people behind Trek and the innovative products they produce. Back in

Read Review

Jun 2012 · Caley Fretz

We give our first impressions of the all-new Trek Madone and an expanded Domane line

Aug 2010 · R BA

No, not the new 6 Series SSL, but still a (2009) Tour winner

Mar 2010 · Lennard Zinn

Two-time world pursuit champion Taylor Phinney is Trek-Livestrong’s marquee rider.

Jan 2010 · James Huang

A racier and brawnier feel for the new Madone

Jan 2009 · Mat Brett

Lightweight, stiff and comfortable with superb ride quality

Last updated June 29 Not listed for 2,501 days

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Cycling Plus

Trek Madone 3.1 review

Versatile and good value package

Russell Burton

The Madone is the century’s most successful pro frameset, helping Lance Armstrong to most of his seven Tour wins . While this has made it a huge seller, the lower range Madones never got our pulses racing in the same way as Trek’s 6-Series OCLV frame.

This year’s range changes all that, though. The 3.1 is brilliant, its new OCLV frame offering a beautifully smooth ride. It shares the same frame as the 3.5, a runner-up in our Bike of the Year test.

Madones come in three different geometry options: the H1 for pro riders, the H2 with lengthened head tube and shorter top tube, and the more relaxed H3. We opted for the H2.

• Highs: The 3.1 is a joy to ride: handling, gearing and comfort are all perfectly pitched
• Lows: The wheels are basic and will need upgrading to improve the 3.1
• Buy if: You want a bike that can be ridden year round over many miles, with great handling

As well as having mudguard eyelets, the 3.1’s fork features Trek’s neat built-in ANT compatible Speedtrap sensor, which can transmit to any compatible device.

For what is nominally an endurance model, the Madone 3.1 handles superbly. Get onto the drops on a descent and the 3.1 is exactly where you want it to be, even when the road gets seriously twisty. A full-on race bike might have the edge but the Madone 3.1 will be more comfortable for longer.

What the Trek gives you most, though, is pure confidence – extreme lean angles and fast direction changes are easy, helped by the Bontrager R1 Plus tyres.

Trek use Shimano 105 shifters and rear mech and a Tiagra front mech, with SRAM’s S350 chainset proving a great companion. The 50/34 rings and 12-30 cassette give the 3.1 a climbing ability nearly the equal of the Giant Defy.

Bontrager supply the rest of the kit. The Affinity saddle is well shaped, comfortable and reasonably svelte, its clamp offering ample adjustability. The Bontrager Race bar has a traditional round shape which is comfortable to hold, and its compact drop lets you get down low without overstretching.

The wheels are weightier than we’d like, but that’s par for the course at £1,500.

Overall, the 3.1 is ideal for challenge or sportive rides, its mudguard potential giving it year-round versatility too. Add handling that’s perfectly pitched and a smooth, comfortable ride and this is a hard bike to beat. Eventually we’d upgrade the wheels, but as it stands, it’s one of the best £1,500 bikes around.

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Did I make a huge mistake buying a new Madone 3.1??

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Hi - this is my first post but I've been a long time lurker. So I've been thinking about buying an entry level road bike for a long time. After months or research I had it narrowed down to three bikes - CAAD10 5, Domane 2.3 and Madone 3.1. Last week the Madone 3.1 went on sale. So I went to ride it one more time and realized that I liked the feel of it better than the CAAD10, which was too aggressive and twitchy for me. I liked the Domane too, and it was also on sale, but the Madone just felt right. I was assured by the salesman that I was making the right decision buying a carbon (albeit low end carbon) over aluminum. So I pulled the trigger. They ordered it and it will be in later this week. Today I stopped by to ask about pedals. My previous salesman was busy so someone else helped me. I explained that I had bought a Madone from this shop and it's on its way to be assembled later this week. In addition to asking about pedals, I asked about wheels. Almost every review I read about the Madone 3.1 said its wheels were heavy and that they would be a good thing for future upgrade. Out of curiosity, I wanted to know how much a decent set of wheels would cost me. Here is what the salesman who helped me today said: "You shouldn't put a dime into this bike. If you want to spend money buy a new frame." HUH? I told him I just purchased this bike from his shop 4 days ago under the recommendation of one of his colleagues. Yet he's telling me that this bike has essentially no business being upgraded. He said if it was a high end aluminum then yes. Or a high end carbon. But a 3.1? NO. Now ow I was under ZERO illusions that the 3.1 was state of the art or a high end bike. I know,perfectly well that it's Treks entry level carbon bike and that's fine. But no one there ever told me prior to purchase that this bike is so bad that it's worthless to upgrade any components or wheels ever. The amazing thing is that 3 or 4 years ago most of the Madones had the same shape frame as the 3.1 - KVF is relatively new. I left the bike shop angry and confused. Is the 3.1 really that bad? I know t doesn't have the rep of the CAAD10, but I would have been miserable riding it. Something about H2 felt right to me...and this is after trying Treks, Cannondales, Giants, and Specialized bikes. But I wanted a decent, quality bike with a good frame that would make a foundation for future upgrades. Apparently it doesn't fit that bill. So did I make a mistake? Is it a waste to put any money in this bike...including lighter and better wheels in the future? Should I have purchased the H2 Madone 2.1 instead because it's high end aluminum? This guy kind of rained on my parade. I was so psyched at getting a new bike. And while I knew it wasn't a 7.9...I thought it was a decent bike at a tremendous price.  

You didn't make a mistake, the salesperson did by running his mouth and should have his @$$ kicked by the person who sold you the bike.  

Ride the hell out of it.  

The salesperson who is the d!ckhead is right on one thing, you shouldn't have to upgrade anything on the bike yet and don't spend any extra money (besides getting pedals as you'll need those). You should just ride it and enjoy it as is and then decide if anything on the bike is holding you back that an upgrade to something nicer/lighter would benefit. Usually it is a want versus need thing for many of us to upgrade anyways but that is ok too. But, he is completely wrong on the frame needing an upgrade. You should talk to his boss and let him know the attitude of his employee...it is hard enough to keep a LBS open as they can't come anywhere near the prices that online offers.  

The salesman is doing you a favor. That's just dumb to buy a brand new bike and then drop $1000 or so into it. You should have just bought a 4.5 or 5 series. I agree, no reason to upgrade anything on that bike. Ride it for 3-4 years then sell it and buy something really nice. Upgrading components that aren't broken or worn out is a complete waste.  

No you're wrong. He did not do me any favors. I didn't ask him how much to upgrade to SRAM Red or Dura Ace Di2. All I tried to ask him was how much it would eventually cost me for a good set of wheels when the current ones wear out....as well as how much their 105 pedals cost. Instead he made me instantly regret my purchase. Not everyone has or wants to spend $5k on an ENTRY LEVEL bike. But I live in a very affluent area, where plenty of people do buy super bikes for their first bikes, only to sell them after one or two rides or leave them in their garage forever. But im not one of these people. Knowing I would have to buy all the ancillary things (pedals, helmet, shoes, shorts, spare tubes, maybe a Camelback), I set a budget of ~$1600 for the bike...but was willing to go up a little if something good came along. One of this salesmans problems was mistakenly thinking he could shame me or my ego into buying a different, much more expensive bike. He almost cost his company - which has driven close to every nearby small LBS out of business - a sale. I did make one mistake - and that was buying my bike from them.  

Even if you bought a $5000 bike, you would still question whether or not you should upgrade something. And ask the salesperson if a 6.2 can magically make you beat Greipel in a sprint.  

Obviously you need pedals however wheels you don't 'need'. So what if they are a little heavy, it's doubtful they will hold you significantly. At most they are a pound heavier, and will be a bit slower to spin up if you are sprinting. Remember you are reading reviews from people who test ride bikes over a very wide range of prices and their comments are pointing out their perceived differences vs ideal often, not problems. Ride and work on fitness, and if you think you want to upgrade something think about spending money on a good fit session after you have had 6 months in the saddle.  

I keep having to remind myself that the 20 lbs that I need to lose will be far more noticeable than the 1 pound I shave off by buying new tires. I think I omitted it in my original post, but the reason why I asked about wheels/tires was because I was curious as to what a good pair of wheels would cost me when and if the time came for me to replace the presumably worn out originals. Like I said, I had somewhat of a ballpark budget that I wanted to follow. Thanks for everyone's help!!!  

It looks like a sweet ride. I wouldn't worry about the wheels. They're probably great for touring, commuting, training, etc. I'm not a big fan of the super high tech reduced spoke count, odd spoke lacing. Those look pretty standard. If you decide you wish to race, or do triathlons, then by all means go out and drop a thousand dollars into a set of high end race wheels. If you take care of them, then hopefully the stock wheels will last you for many years to come. I agree that it is poor form to be putting down a customer's bike, especially when that customer just bought it from that bike shop.  

The salesman sounds like a jerk, IMHO. There is nothing wrong with a Madone 3.1 and many people would love to be riding that bike and wouldn't consider that an "entry" level bike, but an intermediate one. Ride the wheels until they wear out, then look at another pair, there is no use putting money into a bike until you really know what you want after riding for a few years. Hope to see some pics when you get it.  

The sales guy is a dick nothing wrong with the bike you have bought as a first bike, get the pedals on it and get out and enjoy yourself once you have ridden it for a while and gotten used to it you may find there are a few small things you can do to tailor it more to you and your riding style but you are a long way away from needing to replace wheels or anything major its taken me a while to find an LBS who are keen to get people riding and support you whatever you ride be it the cheapest they sell or full on $10,000 ride dont be put off your choice, you chose it because it felt good if you are happy with the store either speak to the owner about this sales guy's attitude or just don't deal with him, browse the shiney stuff while you wait for someone with a better attitude, or find another store  

I think the wheels are gonna be heavy on any bike until you get into the higher dollar amounts. Even Cervelo R5s go from 5 to 9k and the wheels on those are famous for sucking. You are buying the perfect bike to get started. after you ride for a little while pick up a pair of dura ace c24s. These are great wheels for about a grand. the second salesperson is an idiot but not entirely wrong. you asked about wheels and if you get a good set you take them with you to your next bike. you don't want to do changing out the group set etc...if you did that you would have a bunch of $ tied up with limited results  

It is a competitive market. No doubt the salesmen try to push the more expensive bicycles onto customers. Why sell a $2000 bike when they can sell a $3000 bike. HOWEVER, it is pretty rude to call a person's $2K bike a piece of junk, especially if it was that shop that sold it to the customer. Do you even have possession of the bike yet? If not, you could always cancel the sale, and head to a different bike shop.  

Selling is an art. It's quite obvious there wasn't much selling going on here.  

You liked the way the bike rode. You liked the price after it went on sale. So what exactly is there to regret? All wheels on bikes under $5k are heavy. Unless you are at a certain level you won't even notice. If you do want to swap them out then you have tons of options. Don't let a couple of internet reviews and some prick clerk make you question your decision. You shouldn't even let any the replies you get on this thread change your mind.  

Perfectly stated.  

Don't buy upgrades pedal up grades  

Thats pretty good!  

Sounds like you got the right bike. But I would wait on expensive upgrades because it takes awhile to actually need them unless something is obviously off. Since you liked the way the bike rode, I'd say re-evaluate whether you need wheels in a couple of years, once you know more about bikes and your riding style. That said, a new, higher end set of tires like Continental GP 4000s, or Continental 4 Season (someone help me remember the name of these, will take too long to look up on an IPAD), will make the ride much smoother, and I felt like my handling actually improved once I switched. Also good to make sure the bars are comfortable, the saddle doesn't cause pain, the pedal and shoe set-up and comfortable and pain free, and you have a very good bike fitting.  

Hi everyone! Great news - I received a call from the LBS where I ordered my bike from...and it will be ready for me to pick up tomorrow. I already bough my pedals - Shimano 105 SPD-LS. And I have a helmet....so tomorrow I have to pick up at least some of the other things that I will need, like shoes, shorts, water bottle cages. I'll probably bet most of those things from pricepoint. Anyway hopefully I'll take it out for a short ride tomorrow or Saturday...provided the weathers good. Thanks for all of your advice and words of encouragement.  

Cheap carbon frame rides damn fine nasty and dead. You wonder what the purpose is, given there are many alternatives like aluminum or even steel to choose from.  

Could you expand on that? I'm not really sure what you mean  

Well, did you get it? Have you been busy riding? Any pics of it that you can share?  

don't pay any attention to the horses butt....go ride the bike and have fun.  

"..don't pay any attention to the horses butt..". What are you, Professor FAIL all concentrated into one?  

The only mistake you made was dealing with that chump of a salesperson. People over think this stuff so much. The salesperson was a douche and you should remind yourself of that. You got a great bike that you are happy with and most importantly was in a price range you were comfortable with. Now get out there and ride. Spend more time playing with Strava, being proud of the hills you attacked and plan the sprints that are fun within your rides. Don't waste your energy thinking of the parts. I had a customer get upset with me yesterday as we were talking about the reasons to upgrade his 25 year old Cannondale. We talked about comfort, power, acceleration, handling, integrated shifting vs down tube , etc. However he was very upset that I wouldn't tell him that he will be faster. He kept talking about all the young guys that pass by him because they are on new carbon frames. To which I say is a Mustang faster than an Accord because of the lighter body or because it has an 8 cylinder and not a 4 cylinder engine. You're then engine, upgrade you and do so on a bike that is comfortable for you and up your riding style. That is what you have so go use it and love it.  

Ledipus said: People over think this stuff so much. Click to expand...

boeckelr said: So did I make a mistake? Is it a waste to put any money in this bike...including lighter and better wheels in the future? Should I have purchased the H2 Madone 2.1 instead because it's high end aluminum? This guy kind of rained on my parade. I was so psyched at getting a new bike. And while I knew it wasn't a 7.9...I thought it was a decent bike at a tremendous price. Click to expand...

Hi everyone, Thanks for all the replies. I have been riding my new bike for about three weeks now. Mostly short rides so far. I decided to try cycling because two years ago I badly broke my foot - with lots of dislocated bones and a severed ligament - and after two surgeries I knew running was out of the question and I needed something more entertaining than a spinning bike. What that means is that I'm not in the greatest aerobic shape because I've been inactive for two years. I live in an area with lots of hills, and at first they bothered me but I'm doing better with them now. If it weren't for the hills I feel I could much longer rides. But I have to plan my route carefully bc some of the hills I won't get up at my current level of fitness. Hopefully soon. So I have two issues. The first I believe is related to my bike fit - or lack of fit. My hands are killing me when I ride. Position doesn't really matter, although it seems to feel ok in the drops. I bought a well padded pair of gloves and they help somewhat but I find I'm constantly needing to shift my grip. They don't go numb. They just hurt. I've fiddled with my seat height to no avail. I know that if I decide to really take up cycling I'll have to get it professionally fitted at some point but I'm not ready to do that yet. My biggest issue are these damn cleats. I bought spd-sl. My first three rides after my pedals arrived I took my bike to a parking lot at the beach - somewhere flat with lots of room - and practiced getting in and out of them over and over. While I had zero problems down there where it's flat, I'm having a very hard time clipping in when I'm on any sort of incline. I've fallen twice now and come close two other times. My latest fall wrenched my surgically repaired foot and wrecked my saddle. My biggest fear is being on a steep hill and falling into traffic because my speed gets too slow. That's why I've stayed on back roads so far. But honestly I'm about ready to scrap these damn things and use cages. The problem is my house is at the bottom of a hill. The driveway is gravel and steep. Today I made the mistake of trying to ride up the driveway but didn't get off the flat part before I fell and wrecked my saddle. Even if I walk my bike up my driveway to the culdesak that my driveway comes out to, and try to clip in there, it's on an incline. That's where my other fall occurred and where two more close calls happened. Fortunately these have all happened at the start of a ride...nothing's happened so far while out riding. But like I said, I can do it with my eyes closed somewhere flat. Put me in a low speed situation on a hill and I fall or almost fall. Very frustrated. Anyway thanks again for all the advice. I'd post a pic of my shiny new bike but the seat is wrecked lol.  

The bike shop should have set you up with a free fit....... Get a trainer for the house a practice with the spds. after a while you won't even think about it anymore. Keep at and get out there. Most importantly don't forget to have fun.  

Are they adjusted to the easiest setting to unclip from the pedals? Are you gearing down before you hit the steep hills so it won't be too hard to pedal?  

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• Madone 3.1 WSD Compact

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Trek madone 3.1, shimano 105, carbon fiber road bike, 18 pounds 56cm.

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