ford cruise o matic green dot

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Cruise-O-Matic....what is it?

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My 64 1/2 has auto trans with Cruise-O-Matic. What's the difference between regular drive and the green dot? Thanks! Scott  

Cruise-O-Matic was just the type of Automatic Transmission that the C4 was called. Long Before the C4, There was the FORD-O-MATIC Auto transmission... I think that there were even C6 Trannies called Cruise-O-Matic as well.. The early '64 thru '66 Trannies were called "green dot" trannies. In 1967, They beefed up the C4 and changed the gear selection with two gears reversed, but you can still swap a '67 tranny into a '66 and earlier car.. The bellhousings of the trannies have different bolt patterns as well. The 64/65 has a 5 bolt pattern, and the late 65-'66 and after has a 6 bolt pattern on the C4 bellhousing. YOU WANt TO DRIVE on the Green Dot. The Green DOT has 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. The white dot is only 2nd, and 3rd gear. My father way back when in the 60's and early 70's kept driving on the White Dot and ruined two C4 Trannies.. The white dot is just meant as a passing shift gear while lane changing or blowing by somebody. That's all. Tony Kovar 1966 Sprint 200 Convertible MCA#70001  

NEFaurora said: The white dot is only 2nd, and 3rd gear. My father way back when in the 60's and early 70's kept driving on the White Dot and ruined two C4 Trannies.. The white dot is just meant as a passing shift gear while lane changing or blowing by somebody. That's all. Click to expand...

NEFaurora said: Cruise-O-Matic was just the type of Automatic Transmission that the C4 was called. Long Before the C4, There was the FORD-O-MATIC Auto transmission... I think that there were even C6 Trannies called Cruise-O-Matic as well.. The early '64 thru '66 Trannies were called "green dot" trannies. In 1967, They beefed up the C4 and changed the gear selection with two gears reversed, but you can still swap a '67 tranny into a '66 and earlier car.. The bellhousings of the trannies have different bolt patterns as well. The 64/65 has a 5 bolt pattern, and the late 65-'66 and after has a 6 bolt pattern on the C4 bellhousing. YOU WANt TO DRIVE on the Green Dot. The Green DOT has 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear. The white dot is only 2nd, and 3rd gear. My father way back when in the 60's and early 70's kept driving on the White Dot and ruined two C4 Trannies.. The white dot is just meant as a passing shift gear while lane changing or blowing by somebody. That's all. Tony Kovar 1966 Sprint 200 Convertible MCA#70001 Click to expand...

While the Ford-O-Matic was a 3 speed auto, it was also the name of the two speed auto, normally found in pre-65 Falcons. The "white dot" position was actually intended to decrease the torque output to the rear tires on take off. Primarily for starting on slippery roads, e.g. ice, snow, rain (per the owners manual!).  

The green dot (in what is today normally the 2nd gear position) is equal to D in the later trannies, with full auto shifting thru 1,2,3 forward gears. L is just 1 & 2, and the other dot is just 2 & 3 (maybe just 2nd, can't remember 100% right now). I once had a '66 Fairlane with the green dot shift indicator. I took it in for a look over thinking something was wrong since it would never shift into high. Turns out it was a '67 trans in the car ('67 motor too, but that's another story), so it was always in 2nd when I had the shifter at the green dot. :shrug:  

L is just 1 & 2, and the other dot is just 2 & 3 (maybe just 2nd, can't remember 100% right now) Click to expand...

How exactly does driving on the white dot damage te tranny?? I have been driving white dot for about 4,000 miles.I drive my car very easy,except for the occasional burnout.....  

I would not continue to do that if your transmission has the original valve body and has not been converted to the '67 and later body. The "White Dot" does a second gear start and then shifts to third. It was intended for starting on ice and snow (remember, the designers lived in Michigan) to minimize wheel slip etc. Use the green dot for all normal driving as it does a 1-2-3 shift and should make it easier on the components that are active in second gear. My '66 went 190,000 on the original C-4 using the "Green Dot". When I restored the car in 1998, I installed a '67 valve body so the white dot now does a 1-2-3 shift. Don't drive it in the white dot except when you want really low torque starts as stated above. Good Luck.  

I still do not know how the trans is damaged using white dot most of the time.doing a nuetral drop is a pretty severe blow to a trans, you are slamming it in gear with the engine doing some heavy rpm's, how is this the same as shifting to 2nd at a dead stop[0 rpm's], and taking off? I fully realize what the white dot was intended for....thanks, L  

lleno said: I still do not know how the trans is damaged using white dot most of the time.doing a nuetral drop is a pretty severe blow to a trans, you are slamming it in gear with the engine doing some heavy rpm's, how is this the same as shifting to 2nd at a dead stop[0 rpm's], and taking off? I fully realize what the white dot was intended for....thanks, L Click to expand...

Not at all. Automatic transmission bands engage when you shift into gear, and unless the trans is falling apart, are fully engaged at all times after that, whether you are accelerating, decelerating, or stopped at an intersection. They only engage and disengage when shifting gears. The torque converter provides the function that a manual clutch provides.  

I have a 1966 6 cylinder with a cruseomatic. It will not shift gears. I replaced the vaccum modular and it still will not shift. All the way down and the green dot (2nd position) is first gear, then in order to go into second gear I have to push it to the first position. I have no third gear and it will not down shift on its own. Any suggestions???  

Group 7 Automatic Transmissions Troubleshooting starts on page 7-9.  

Thank you bartl. I have another question fir transmission smart people. I did remove the shifter from inside the car. Does the shifter have to be installed a certain way? I replaced the vaccum modular and have good vaccum. But I have to manually shift the car into first and second gear and then back to first. It will not do it by itself. Any other suggestions would be great.  

Check the down shift cable/lever, it may be stuck in downshift mode. Vern  

My 65 has one and the original manual that says the white dot is for starting out on snow or other slippery conditions because it starts out in 2nd gear for lower torque so the tire won't spin as much  

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Ford C4 Transmission Identification: Your Comprehensive Guide

The Ford C-4 transmission is one of the most iconic and enduring automatic transmissions in automotive history.

Appearing in the early 1960s, it quickly gained popularity for its efficiency and versatility.

In this exploration of Ford C4 Transmission Identification , let’s delve into all basic information about it over the years.

I will provide a comprehensive guide to recognizing and understanding the unique aspects of Ford’s venerable transmission lineage.

Why Did Ford Decide To Develop The C4?

What is a C4 transmission? Ford decided to develop the C4 to replace its previous two-speed Ford-O-Matic transmission.

The C4 transmission, a three-speed automatic model,  was introduced in the early 1960s. It was designed to improve vehicle performance, fuel efficiency, and drivability.

The C4 transmission was part of Ford’s efforts to keep up with the production demands in the automotive industry.

The three-speed design of the C4 allowed for smoother shifting and better acceleration. This makes it more suitable for a wide range of driving conditions.

Additionally, the C4 was more compact and lighter than its predecessor. It helps reduce the vehicle’s overall weight and improves fuel economy.

Its simplified design also made it easier to manufacture and maintain.

Ford C4 Transmission Identification 

You will see a special tag in the transmission (usually on the passenger’s side) that states its name, which is C4. Or, check for a nearly square pan measuring 9 x 10 inches with 11 built-in bolts.

What are the Gear Ratios of the C4?

How long is a C4 transmission? The Ford C4 transmission typically came with three different gear ratio configurations. These C4 gear ratios are as follows:

First Gear (1st ): The first gear ratio in the C4 transmission is generally around 2.46:1 or 2.40:1. This gear provides strong initial torque and is used for starting the vehicle from a standstill.

Second Gear (2nd): The second gear ratio is typically around 1.46:1. It strikes balances of acceleration and speed. It is also used during moderate driving conditions.

Third Gear (3rd): The third gear ratio is usually 1.00:1. It offers a direct drive, meaning there is no torque multiplication. This gear is used for high-speed cruising and efficient fuel consumption.

Some variants of this popular transmission body may have slightly different gear ratios. However, the above ratios are common for standard C4 transmissions.

Ford made several updates and improvements to it over the years. That is why there are minor variations in gear ratios across different model years and vehicle applications (especially heavy-duty applications).

Where Was the C4 Transmission Made?

The C4 transmission body was primarily made at the Sharonville transmission plant in Ohio, United States. This plant was responsible for producing it until 1981.

The Sharonville plant was known for producing not only the C4 but also the C6 automatic transmissions .

These new transmissions were designed to fit Ford’s high-power applications big-block V8 engines.

What are the specs of the C4 transmission?

Part Number : This is a 4-digit code, including both letters and numbers. The first letter hints at the decade when the C4 was produced: A – 1940s, B – 1950s, and C – 1960s.

For instance, C5SP translates to a 1965 C4 transmission.

Weight: The C4 transmission gear is significantly lighter than the Ford-O-Matic.

It weighed approximately 110 pounds dry (without fluid) and without the locking torque converter, compared to the 228 pounds of the Ford-O-Matic.

The lighter weight of the C4 was achieved by using an aluminum alloy construction for its components.

Construction: The C4 is made of cast aluminum alloy. While the Ford-O-Matic was constructed of cast iron.

The C4 can be disassembled into three pieces: the five-bolt bellhousing, the main case, and the tail housing. All of these are made of aluminum alloy.

Size: It is close to 17 to 18 inches long. This number slightly varies based on the selected case fill or pan fill option.

You can catch a nearly square-shaped 9×10 pan with 11 integrated bolts.

Durability: The C4 transmission had improved durability compared to its predecessor. It was designed to be more reliable and robust, contributing to its long production life of 19 years.

Transmission Fluid: The C4 required approximately 5.5 quarts of fluid without the torque converter.

Depending on the torque converter applied, it might need an additional 2-4 quarts of fluid.

Popularity: It remains popular today, particularly in hot rod applications. This is where it is often used after modifications by aftermarket professionals.

Its popularity is due to its lightweight, durability, and ease of change.

How did the C4 Become the Select-Shift?

The C4 3-speed Cruise-O-Matic transmission (Dual-range), a.k.a Green Dot, was introduced from 1964 to 1966.

This transmission came standard with a valve body, allowing drivers to start in 2nd gear on slippery surfaces with a 2-to-3 gear-up, represented by a tiny dot next to N (neutral).

Additionally, by engaging the bigger green dot next to “L,” drivers could start in 1st gear and experience a regular upshift from 1, 2 to 3rd gear.

During this period, Ford referred to its C4 as the Cruise-O-Matic , but Mercury named its version Merc-O-Matic.

This was a widely-known trademark for the automatic transmissions of Ford during the mid-1960s.

In 1967, Ford dropped the Cruise-O-Matic name and applied the term “Select-Shift” for all its automatics.

Moreover, for the 1964 model year, the C4 gearbox featured a 5-bolt bellhousing exclusively for V8 engines. 

In August of the same year, Ford upgraded its V8 engines (outfitted with the C4) with a larger 6-bolt pattern bellhousing to minimize vibration, harshness, and noise.

What Are The Problems With the Ford C4 Transmission?

Here are the problems commonly associated with the C4 transmission Ford :

Leaking Fluid

• Over time, the Ford C4 transmissions may experience an increased likelihood of leakage. The pan gasket, front pump seal, rear seal, and shift shaft seals are common areas prone to leaks.
• Leaking transmission fluid can lead to a loss of fluid levels. This can cause the transmission to overheat and eventually lead to transmission failure.
• Remember to check for and fix fluid leaks regularly. Doing so will help maintain the proper function of the C4 transmission.

Clutch Failure

• The C4 transmission uses multiple clutches to engage different gears. Over time, these clutches can wear out due to normal use and heat.
• Clutch failure can lead to slipping gears, harsh shifts, sticking to the floor , and poor performance transmission.
• Proper maintenance, regular fluid changes, and avoiding heavy loads can help prolong clutch life in the C4 transmission. You can also replace a new clutch if needed.

Band Slippage – The Death Shudder

• Band slippage refers to a condition where the bands used to engage specific gears in the transmission fail to hold properly due to wear or damage.
• Band slippage can cause a severe shuddering or vibration sensation during gear changes, particularly in the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.
• If left unaddressed, band slippage can lead to significant transmission damage. As a result, you will need to rebuild or replace the affected components.

If you encounter any mentioned problems, for example, transmission fluid gushing out , contact a qualified mechanic or transmission specialist.

He will know exactly what to do to get the job done.

How Hard Is It To Rebuild A Ford C4 Transmission?

Rebuilding a Ford C4 automatic transmission can be a complex and challenging task. It requires certain mechanical knowledge, expertise, and access to specialized tools.

The difficulty will vary depending on the individual’s experience and skill level.

For individuals with extensive experience, rebuilding an automatic transmission C4 is achievable.

However, attempting a transmission rebuild is mostly impossible for those without the knowledge and expertise.

In a worse case, it can lead to costly mistakes or even unsafe results.

It is often best to entrust the rebuilding process to an experienced mechanic. They have the expertise, tools, and resources to rebuild properly.

They can ensure the transmission’s reliability and performance.

Is It Easy To Find Parts For The Ford C4 Transmission?

Finding parts for the C4 transmission can be relatively easy due to its popularity. The Ford transmission C4 was used in various vehicles for many years.

Therefore, it is one of the most commonly found transmissions in the automotive world.

As a result, there is healthy aftermarket support and availability of genuine and aftermarket replacement parts for the C4 transmission.

How Does A C4 Transmission Work?

The Ford C4 transmission is a three-speed automatic transmission. It employs hydraulic pressure, clutches, and planetary gear sets to shift gears automatically.

It utilizes a torque converter to connect the engine to the transmission and achieves different gear ratios through planetary gear arrangements.

A hydraulic system controls the transmission’s operation, and shifting occurs based on engine and vehicle speeds.

The Ford C4 transmission identification is not that challenging if there is an identification tag. But if not, you can rely on its appearance and part number.

Anyway, remember to take care of your transmission and its fluid properly, since failure in this system will wreak havoc on many parts of your car.

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Green Dot rebuild - What's needed?

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The green dot trans in my 65 Galaxie is acting up a bit and I've been thinking about going through it and freshening it up myself. Partly to save some dough and partly because I'm interested in doing the job myself. Is there some sort of standard rebuild kit I can buy that would have the correct parts for my trans without having to tear it down first? Are many special tools required for the job?  

Pioneer makes a $120 dollar master kit for a C-4. Buying that is all you'll need besides some Tranny fluid.  

Though Ford used the term Cruise-o-matic for many years, the green dot version only lasted two years. After that, the C-6 took over the big blocks. As a result that COM is a bit of an orphan, tough to find a kit. For example, autozone gives you the wrong filter, you need the one with two holes, Transmission Screen And Pan Gasket Kit WITH PAN GASKET CRUISE-O-MATIC F100 & F250 - MAC's Antique Auto Parts In short you will have to look pretty hard to get the parts you need, might have to find the clutches one place, the bands someplace else. The good news is the 1965 shop manual gives excellent instructions on rebuilding, so you will not be lacking for guidance, just parts. If I am wrong and there is a kit out there, I want to hear about it!  

What is the transmission? If it is a C4 then you will want to add a rear servo piston/seal assembly, modulator (white stripe), front band, thrust washer kit and bushing kit to the master overhaul kit.  

nice! I'm gonna do it. Paul, as I understand it the green dot is the 65-66 only model of C4 trans and has a different valve body which gives it the PRN2DL shift pattern.  

Partially right and partially wrong. The green dot version of the C4 was introduced in 1964 and 1966 was the last year, then the select shift transmission came into being. The Green dot shift quadrant was as follows: P R N Small dot Green dot L In the small dot position the transmission starts in second gear and shifts to third. In the green dot position all 3 speeds are available. 1967 and up had a shift quadrant of: P R N D 2 L With select shift when the "2" postition is selected the transmission stays in second gear.  

65er said: Stuarta nailed it. This is what I've got. I don't know for sure if "L" keeps it in first or first and second only, guess I should try it out sometime. Click to expand...

I've got a Green Dot myself and Stuarta is right on this one.....I've got one 67 VB that I plan to use that a friend wanted to rebuild. He use to work in a tranny shop but he's retired and missed that stuff. I have to swap out the VB with his supervision....I couldn't resist the offer.  

FEandGoingBroke said: if you shift into 3rd then grab first at any speed over 45 MPH or so it will drop to second and stay there for the duration unless you slow to the range of the 1st gear then it' drops rather suprisingly into 1st... Click to expand...

the 66 valve body can be swapped for the 67 - 69 for the newer pattern but it is my understanding the the 64 and 65 are different.  

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Green Dot Transmission

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So the other day I'm driving my car and I'm only noticing it shift once. I always drive with the shifter in the Green dot position. So I put it in the white dot position and try it a few times from a stop. Now its seems to be giving me 2 shifts. I don't think I was getting 1st in the green dot position. But my understanding is the green dot position should be giving me all 3 gears, while white dot should be 2nd and 3rd. So is mine reversed from who ever did the last trans overhaul? If so is it an easy fix?  

I don't recall the color of the dots, and can't tell from CJP's b/w photo, and this is from memory (which at my age is not always correct...). But I'm pretty sure the white circle with a dot in it above the L is the normal driving position; i.e., a 1-2-3 shift. The small dot above it will start in second gear (2-3 shift), for use when the rear wheels spin on startup, like in snow.  

My 64 TBird is P-R-N-white dot- white dot surrounded by green circle-L. The first position after N started in 2nd gear and the second position started in 1st gear. As I recall in my '66 (which I sold years ago) the positions were switched. That is, the first position after N started in 1st gear and the second position started in 2nd gear. Again that is only memory and I could be wrong. But I had both cars at the same time, which is why I think that I am correct. In '67 Ford went with the standard P-R-N-D-2 that they used until they stopped making three speeds.  

Someone has switched to a '67 up valve body during the rebuild OR given you an exchange unit that has the '67 up valve body. Nothing to worry about. If you need a perfect "green dot" valve body ( no real advantage to changing) , I have several perfect ones. Randy  

Thanks for the offer. Turns out its not a green dot tranny at all, but a later model select-shift from a column shift vehicle. The shift linkage was cobbled together incorrectly to fit my car, and the shift pattern and valve body were indeed messed up among other things. Low was not even first gear but actually second. The cross member and the mounts were also incorrect, and the tail shaft housing mount was actually broken off one one side. All of this was causing a lot of vibration at high speed. Given the poor install and other issues found with the tranny, I've opted to just swap it out in favor of the correct Green Dot tranny rather than spend the money trying to get this one fixed. Thanks to all for the feedback.  

Glad to help!  

I’ve got the Green Dot shifter. My motor is a 306 crate and I had a Performance Automatic AOD installed. When I start in the white dot, it does seem to start in 2nd...not much acceleration. HOWEVER, when I start in Green Dot, great acceleration, but won’t shift past 2nd. I’m not sure based on my setup or install if this is the reason. But here’s my question - as a cruise o matic, is it ok if routinely start in green dot, then shift to white, or does that out too much stress on an automatic? Or is that what it’s made to do? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk  

CUAviator said: I’ve got the Green Dot shifter. My motor is a 306 crate and I had a Performance Automatic AOD installed. When I start in the white dot, it does seem to start in 2nd...not much acceleration. HOWEVER, when I start in Green Dot, great acceleration, but won’t shift past 2nd. I’m not sure based on my setup or install if this is the reason. But here’s my question - as a cruise o matic, is it ok if routinely start in green dot, then shift to white, or does that out too much stress on an automatic? Or is that what it’s made to do? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Click to expand...

I also have an AOD on my classic with a "green dot" shifter. The shift pattern from the Cruise-O is different. It's now OD-D-2-1. In OD it starts in 1 and shifts to 2,3, then OD. D is the same thing but locks out overdrive.  

And to be clear, I chose this particular transmission specifically to be more comfortable at highway cruising speeds, driving around with the family and the and comfort driving around town...not for racing. But sometimes I want to go fast. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

I think that the OP should find a good transmission shop and diagnose the issue and adjust the TV cable if necessary. #1 because he appears to have an unusual shift pattern, maybe an AODE or some odd mechanism. #2 because if you adjust the cable wrong you can burn out the transmission very quickly.  

Sorry all, this got out of hand quick. The car drives well. Very well. It just pulls better in the “green dot” setting and only goes to second gear so I was just wondering if shifting an automatic was ok to do routinely. Had I not come across this thread I don’t think I’d even be asking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  

CUAviator said: Sorry all, this got out of hand quick. The car drives well. Very well. It just pulls better in the “green dot” setting and only goes to second gear so I was just wondering if shifting an automatic was ok to do routinely. Had I not come across this thread I don’t think I’d even be asking. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Click to expand...

I totally agree with Yadkin, Find a good transmission shop that knows how to set the LOKAR TV cable which is what i believe you have. I noticed you have the Lokar gas pedal which is what i have as well. Dealing with the TV cable is a pain but i've done it plenty of times already and i will advice you to learn how to play with it. I'm not sure why the erratic shifting but i did read on your first post "Performance Automatic AOD " perhaps the valve body has been swapped for performance. Perhaps you might want to talk to the company who you bought the transmission from. J  

JustAnotherRuki said: I totally agree with Yadkin, Find a good transmission shop that knows how to set the LOKAR TV cable which is what i believe you have. I noticed you have the Lokar gas pedal which is what i have as well. Dealing with the TV cable is a pain but i've done it plenty of times already and i will advice you to learn how to play with it. I'm not sure why the erratic shifting but i did read on your first post "Performance Automatic AOD " perhaps the valve body has been swapped for performance. Perhaps you might want to talk to the company who you bought the transmission from. J Click to expand...

I suspect this was just to make all the people who were used to 2-speed transmissions and lousy performance feel more comfortable. Once the public accepted the C4/C6 transmissions, the more logical D21 setup allows for more direct control of the gear you're in, and became the standard.  

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332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum

• 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum > General Discussion > 332-428 Ford FE Engine Forum >

cruisomatic question?

Post Jul 16, 2003 #1 2003-07-16T14:38+00:00

Post Jul 16, 2003 #2 2003-07-16T15:20+00:00

Post Jul 16, 2003 #3 2003-07-16T16:15+00:00

I have a cruis-o-matic transmission behind my 390. The tranny seems to act strange to me. In low it stays in first gear. In green dot (2nd), I thought that the car should go from first to second and stay there, but my tranny goes from first to second just for a moment, then to third. In drive it starts in second and goes to third like it should. Also, when it kicks down to passing gear it will not shift back up until you let back out. Does this all sound normal for a cruiso? Thanks

Post Jul 16, 2003 #4 2003-07-16T19:56+00:00

Post Jul 16, 2003 #5 2003-07-16T22:30+00:00

Post Jul 17, 2003 #6 2003-07-17T00:12+00:00

Post Jul 17, 2003 #7 2003-07-17T06:16+00:00

Post Jul 17, 2003 #8 2003-07-17T14:17+00:00

Post Jul 17, 2003 #9 2003-07-17T14:53+00:00

Post Jul 18, 2003 #10 2003-07-18T13:09+00:00

told me that pal! Anyway, the trans looks good. What are the "bumps" on the top of the case? Welding to make the case stronger? Just asking. Thanks Jay, Mark

Post Jul 18, 2003 #11 2003-07-18T13:14+00:00

....original Cruise-o,Ford-o, Merc-o (MX) not C4 namesake flavor http://www.autotran.us/fmkits1.html#195 ... Fordomatic Jay...Finally, months later, ready to bolt your C6 into my '61 Bird. Took a good while to get everything else together...new motor, headers, cooling, steering, etc. etc. Can't wait to drop it in, next week or so. My other project got stalled while I focused on the bird. C4 sits on a shelf for couple more months. Matt Heckert in CA (aka ValveTubeHead)

Post Jul 18, 2003 #12 2003-07-18T16:10+00:00

Mark, In your case we had to go with the C6 for the wide ratio gears. To the best of my knowledge no one is making gears for them. There is still a lack of parts for the cruise-o. However, there are still enough around to build a good one. Thankfully Transgo still makes shift kits for them, as well as Raybestos makes quality clutches. Im going to work on getting some quality bands made for them.This is the only component that I wish I could get in a Raybestos lining.I am thinking of doing a needle bearing version of the cruise o as well. Of course I think it will be a hard sell. Most people who are interested in them are doing restorations and dont need or want expensive roller bearings. As for the bumps on the case, Im not sure where you mean. I dont intentionally do any welding to the cases.

The Unique Burial of a Child of Early Scythian Time at the Cemetery of Saryg-Bulun (Tuva)

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Pages:  379-406

In 1988, the Tuvan Archaeological Expedition (led by M. E. Kilunovskaya and V. A. Semenov) discovered a unique burial of the early Iron Age at Saryg-Bulun in Central Tuva. There are two burial mounds of the Aldy-Bel culture dated by 7th century BC. Within the barrows, which adjoined one another, forming a figure-of-eight, there were discovered 7 burials, from which a representative collection of artifacts was recovered. Burial 5 was the most unique, it was found in a coffin made of a larch trunk, with a tightly closed lid. Due to the preservative properties of larch and lack of air access, the coffin contained a well-preserved mummy of a child with an accompanying set of grave goods. The interred individual retained the skin on his face and had a leather headdress painted with red pigment and a coat, sewn from jerboa fur. The coat was belted with a leather belt with bronze ornaments and buckles. Besides that, a leather quiver with arrows with the shafts decorated with painted ornaments, fully preserved battle pick and a bow were buried in the coffin. Unexpectedly, the full-genomic analysis, showed that the individual was female. This fact opens a new aspect in the study of the social history of the Scythian society and perhaps brings us back to the myth of the Amazons, discussed by Herodotus. Of course, this discovery is unique in its preservation for the Scythian culture of Tuva and requires careful study and conservation.

Keywords: Tuva, Early Iron Age, early Scythian period, Aldy-Bel culture, barrow, burial in the coffin, mummy, full genome sequencing, aDNA

Information about authors: Marina Kilunovskaya (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Vladimir Semenov (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Candidate of Historical Sciences. Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences. Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail: [email protected] Varvara Busova  (Moscow, Russian Federation).  (Saint Petersburg, Russian Federation). Institute for the History of Material Culture of the Russian Academy of Sciences.  Dvortsovaya Emb., 18, Saint Petersburg, 191186, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Kharis Mustafin  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Technical Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Irina Alborova  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Candidate of Biological Sciences. Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected] Alina Matzvai  (Moscow, Russian Federation). Moscow Institute of Physics and Technology.  Institutsky Lane, 9, Dolgoprudny, 141701, Moscow Oblast, Russian Federation E-mail:  [email protected]

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