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Amenities on Sultan Travel buses

Standard seat

Sultan Travel's Coverage in Numbers

Daily Departures 14
Countries 2

Sultan Travel Bus classes

Sultan travel faq, is there wifi on sultan travel.

No, there is no WiFi on Sultan Travel. No worries, you can use your time on the bus to catch up on some much needed sleep! You can also download your favorite movies, TV shows, and audiobooks or bring a good book.

Are there power outlets or USB plugs on Sultan Travel?

No, there aren't any power outlets or USB plugs on Sultan Travel. If available, we recommend bringing a battery pack to keep your devices charged during longer bus rides. You can also bring a good book to pass the time during your trip.

Does Sultan Travel have a toilet on board?

No, Sultan Travel buses usually don't have a toilet on board. Don't worry, the bus will make stops during your bus trip so that you can stretch your legs, use the toilet and get some snacks.

Does Sultan Travel offer meals or snacks during the bus trip?

There are no meals or snacks offered on Sultan Travel buses. We recommend that you bring some snacks and drinks in a reusable water bottle for your bus trip.

Do you have to print your Sultan Travel bus ticket?

No, you don't need to print your ticket. You can board Sultan Travel buses by showing your e-ticket on your smartphone, along with a valid photo ID. Your ticket will be sent to you by email when booking on Busbud.

Does Sultan Travel allow pets on board or in the hold of the bus?

Only Certified Service animals are allowed on Sultan Travel buses. Unfortunately, your pets are not allowed on the bus or in the hold of the bus.

What are the amenities on Sultan Travel buses?

Sultan Travel goes the extra distance to offer best-in-class services to all travelers. You will be able to enjoy Standard seat on their buses.

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Busbud is a bus and train search tool - we include Sultan Travel routes, schedules and prices in our searches along with many other train and bus companies. You can compare prices, amenities and times by searching for a route. If you find a suitable trip, you can go ahead and get your Sultan Travel ticket from us. Note that train tickets sell out, Sultan Travel and other operators generally charge a lot more for last-minute tickets or for tickets bought in person.

Sultan Travel Popular Routes, Destinations and Stations

Top sultan travel bus lines.

Krakow to Lviv $26
Lviv to Krakow $25
Katowice to Lviv $29
Lviv to Katowice $29
Rzeszow to Lviv $25
Przemyśl to Lviv $23
Lviv to Przemyśl $23
Krakow to Ivano-Frankivs’k $32
Lviv to Rzeszow $25
Ivano-Frankivs’k to Krakow $32
Krakow to Chernivtsi $38
Krakow to Kolomyia $35
Chernivtsi to Krakow $38
Rzeszow to Ivano-Frankivs’k $29
Przemyśl to Ivano-Frankivs’k $44
Kolomyia to Krakow $35
Częstochowa to Lviv $32
Katowice to Ivano-Frankivs’k $36
Chernivtsi to Katowice $41

Top Sultan Travel Destinations

Sultan Travel to Lviv
Sultan Travel Krakow
Sultan Travel to Katowice
Sultan Travel Przemyśl
Sultan Travel to Ivano-Frankivs’k
Sultan Travel Rzeszow
Sultan Travel to Chernivtsi
Sultan Travel Kolomyia
Sultan Travel to Częstochowa

Top Sultan Travel Stations and Locations

Lviv-Holovnyi- Skadovsk-Słupsk
Dworzec autobusowy Sądowa
Przemysl dworzec autobusowy
Avtobusna zupynka

Other local bus companies

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Sultan Travel

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Schedule and Timetable

About Sultan Travel

Bus is a convenient way of travel no matter whether you need to get to a neighboring town a couple of hours away or venture further afield crossing the whole country. Whatever your budget, buses have you covered. Express buses offer the most affordable ticket price for travellers who have very little money to spend. VIP options are geared toward those who do not want to compromise on comfort. Before you jump on a bus, make sure you choose the type of service which suits you best. For a long-haul trip look for a VIP or first-class coach which provides non-stop service to your destination or just call a minor number of stations along the way. Express or local buses in many cases may prove an acceptable choice for shorter trips, but longer rides are often not the best buy. Study the timetable before going as many long-haul destinations are served by night buses, and some offer wider seats or sleeper berths for such travels. Make an online reservation for your bus ticket with Sultan Travel. Other travellers’ reviews will help you to choose the best ticket and coach class.

Sultan Travel Popular Stations

The main stations covered by Sultan Travel’s buses include:

Hradec Kralove
Katowice Airport
Khmelnytskyi
Zviahel Bus Station
Rzeszow Jasionka Airport
Czestochowa
Zielona Gora
Bielsko Biala
Nowy Dwor Mazowiecki
Skarzhisko Kamenna
Krakow Airport
Kamianets Podilskyi
Rivne Bus Station
Lviv Bus Station
Zaporizhzhia
Lviv Zaliznychnyi Station
Starogard Gdanski
Ivano Frankivsk
Kropyvnytskyi
Duesseldorf
Drohobych Train Station
Warsaw Chopin Airport
Kolomyia Bus Station
Krakow Railway Station
Gorzow Wielkopolski
Circle K Gas Bus Stop
Swinoujscie
Warsaw Modlin Airport

Sultan Travel Top Destinations

Sultan Travel buses ply a number of routes and here is the list of some of the most popular ones:

Lviv - Krakow
Krakow - Lviv
Lviv - Przemysl
Lviv - Katowice
Rzeszow - Lviv
Ivano Frankivsk - Katowice
Przemysl - Lviv
Ivano Frankivsk - Krakow
Chernivtsi - Czestochowa
Przemysl - Ivano Frankivsk
Czestochowa - Lviv
Ivano Frankivsk - Rzeszow
Lviv - Czestochowa
Krakow - Ivano Frankivsk
Rzeszow - Chernivtsi
Katowice - Ivano Frankivsk
Lviv - Rzeszow
Krakow - Kolomyia
Katowice - Chernivtsi
Chernivtsi - Krakow
Krakow - Chernivtsi
Kolomyia - Krakow
Rzeszow - Ivano Frankivsk
Katowice - Lviv
Przemysl - Chernivtsi
Ivano Frankivsk - Przemysl
Chernivtsi - Katowice

Sultan Travel Ticket Prices & Bus Classes

One of the best things about bus travel is that you can almost tailor-make your trip adjusting it to your requirements for privacy and comfort. Different classes and types of buses cater to the different needs of travellers. The cheapest trips are normally offered by standard-class buses. They may be called local, express or ordinary. These are a good choice for shorter trips. Sleepers or VIP coaches are good both for longer and overnight trips. They may offer berths or wide soft reclining seats, sometimes with built-in massage options, blankets, soft drinks, and snacks, or more substantial meals on board or during toilet or refuelling stops. Travelling by night buses allows you to save on a hotel room, but to ensure the most comfortable ride do choose the class of your bus wisely. Prices always depend on the distance you ride and the type of coach. For some, even shorter trips, it is worth investing some extra money and buying a seat on a VIP bus as it can save you twice as much time as you spend travelling by an ordinary bus.

Travel by Bus: Pros & Cons

Pros of bus travel.

Bus is the best choice to get to destinations that are not connected by rail or planes. The network of buses often covers almost the whole country, and their routes are well and long-established.
Opposite to air travel and sometimes rail travel, taking a bus does not require arriving at the bus station much in advance. Check-in, even on international routes, does not take much time. Luggage allowances are usually very traveller-friendly, and the fee for extra luggage, if limits are set, is normally not very high.
Bus tickets can be more affordable compared to air or fast train tickets. There is always a choice of ticket classes for all pockets. Cheaper standard options may be a bit slow and do not offer top comfort, but anyway acceptable and bring you to your destination. On longer routes, toilets or toilet stops as well as snacks, water, and sometimes toiletries and blankets are almost always included in the price.
If you are ready to spend more, some VIP coaches offer seating comparable to business class on a plane with wide soft reclining seats, blankets, fewer passengers, and many other perks to make your trip a pleasant journey.

Cons of Bus Travel

Newer intercity bus terminals are very often located out of the city close to bigger highways to allow buses to avoid city congestion. Unfortunately, it may create extra challenges for travellers, too. Getting to such a terminal may be a problem as in some destinations there are restrictions on vehicles allowed to enter the terminal, and you will have to use special carriers to get there. This results in higher costs as prices may be inflated. Also do calculate extra time if you are travelling during rush hours, especially if you are not familiar with the traffic situation at your starting point.
Buses are probably the means of transport which runs out of schedule more often than trains or planes. They are heavily dependent on the road situation which sometimes can be unpredictable – accidents, road construction works, detours, etc. This is especially true for travels during weekends, high season, or national holidays. Do keep this in mind and do not plan tight connections.
Travelling on certain routes or during the most popular periods may require advanced booking. Bear in mind that it is not always possible to show up at the bus station and hop on the next bus – tickets may well be all sold out, so organize your trip accordingly.

Sultan Travel Popular Routes

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About Sultan Travels

Buses are the most affordable means of transport with a large number of terminals across the country and convenient timetables to help you plan your trip. Buses is a convenient option both for those who travel on a shoestring budget and those who do not want to compromise on comfort. Sultan Travels offers bus service with an online reservation available. Before booking your ticket, read other travellers’ reviews to choose the best option.

What are the Main Stations of Sultan Travels?

Sultan Travels operates buses to and from the following stations:

Nala Sopara
NerulMumbai

What are the Most Popular Routes of Sultan Travels?

The most popular destinations of Sultan Travels are:

Solapur - Mumbai

What are the Bus Classes & Prices of Sultan Travels?

The price of your bus trip will depend both on the destination and the class of your ticket. Note that not all ticket classes are available on certain routes yet for longer trips there is almost always a good choice of options. Opt for a sleeper coach for the most convenient overnight trip. Sleeper buses are usually equipped with berths or soft reclining seats, feature an onboard toilet and your ticket may also include other perks like snacks or even a lunch. Taking a night bus is also a good idea if you want to save on your hotel room. During the day an express service is often the best value for money as it makes less stops than an ordinary or standard class bus and travels faster. On some routes it may be crucial to choose the right class as, say, an ordinary or second class bus may need some 6 hours to cover the distance the first class or express bus travels in two hours!

Pros & Cons of Bus Travel

Pros of bus travel.

Buses usually boast the widest network of destinations covered. They travel to the places you cannot get to by plane or even by train

Travelling by bus is easy – there is no need to arrive to the bus terminal much in advance, and the check-in is usually a very fast formality opposite to air travel

Bus tickets are very affordable. Yes, there are costly first class or VIP options but is you are on a budget, bus is the first means of transportation you have to think about

At the same time, there are different classes of service to suit any budget. If you are after a higher level of comfort, buses get you covered, too.

Cons of Bus Travel

Intercity bus terminals can be located outside the city centre in the outskirts. It means you will need to calculate extra time and money to get there. In certain destinations getting from the bus terminal can cost you more than you would expect because only a limited number of transportation companies is allowed to serve the route – and prices may be inflated.

During busy weekends or high season buses serving some tourist destinations may run out of schedule and require advanced booking.

While buses are not as weather dependent as ferries, bus trips can also be delayed or cancelled due to bad weather or road conditions – keep it in mind if travelling during certain seasons or to certain destinations.

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Sultan Travel Agencies is one of the largest travel distributors in Kuwait. Established in 1984, Sultan Travel Agency has over 35 years of experience, making it one of the few leading travel management companies that are recognized and trusted in Kuwait today. We derive together each day to fulfill a promise of offering the single most comprehensive travel experience to users, through the best Mobile and Desktop applications. With intuitive services that have the largest selection of flights, hotels and Packages, we keep customers at the center of everything we do.

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How to visit Astana in 3 days

By Joan Torres 2 Comments Last updated on April 25, 2024

Astana, today Nur-Sultan, was described as the weirdest capital in the world by CNN and I agree. Enter the city into Google Maps and you will see how far away it is from anywhere.

Kazakhstan is the same size as Western Europe but it is mostly unpopulated and nearly completely covered in flat, arid steppe.

Traveling to Astana by plane is surreal. There is nothing as far as you can see until you literally find yourself over the capital. There is nothing – not a mountain, not a tree, no other city or suburbs – nothing.

It is difficult to believe today that when the capital was moved from Almaty in 1997 this was just a dusty little village.

Since then it has gone through a building boom turning it into a futuristic city full of modern, quirky architecture all funded by the country’s vast oil and energy resources.

18.3 million people live in Kazakhstan and although the general standard of living is reasonable I question whether the money could have been better spent.

This article contains everything you need to know to visit Nur-Sultan , former Astana.

In this Astana travel guide you will find:

Table of Contents

Is Astana or Nur Sultan?
Best time to visit
Transportation
Getting to Astana
Moving around the city
Getting from the airport
Where to stay
Where to eat
Things to do is 3 days
More information

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Is it Astana or Nur-Sultan?

Shortly after the capital was moved from Almaty in 1997 it was named Astana, which means ‘capital’ in Kazakh.

The official reason for the relocation was the danger posed by earthquakes in the Almaty region.

The real motive is believed to be more to do with geopolitics and the relationship with Kazakhstan’s two largest trading partners – Russia and China.

For years there was speculation over whether Astana would be renamed after the leader who created it, Nursultan Nazarbayev . He was the president for nearly 30 years, starting his term when the country was still part of the Soviet Union.

Presidents are, according to the country’s constitution, limited to two 5-year terms. However, these rules were changed since the president was so popular – he regularly won 98% of the votes in the general elections.

Nursultan surprised many critics of his regime when he stood down in March 2019. He was expected to be ‘president for life’, as seen in several other countries in the region.

However, at 78-years old and retaining powers as chairman of the Security Council and head of the ruling party, I am not sure how far he actually stepped down in reality.

Kassym-Jomart Tokayev was named as his successor.

As a tribute to his predecessor, he renamed the capital Nur-Sultan .

Officially the name was changed in March 2019 but Astana is still widely used and is the name best known abroad, the named most commonly used in this travel blog.

Central Asia is a complicated region and, in order to fully understand the country, it is recommended to read 1 or 2 books. Check: The 28 best books on Central Asia

Best time to visit Nur-Sultan

Having a steppe climate the variances between cold winter nights and sizzling summer days can be 80 degrees Celsius.

When we visited I was surprised to learn that Nur-Sultan is the second coldest capital in the world after Ulaanbaatar (Mongolia).

Unless you are prepared for -20 degrees Celsius, winter is not the best time to visit.

The other extreme are the summer months of July and August when temperatures can reach up to 40 degrees Celsius.

These large variances make the shoulder season of May/June and September/ October the best times to visit.

Having said that, we visited in early May and I was surprised at how cold it was.

Coming from the warmer climates of Almaty and Uzbekistan this was a bit of a shock to the system. We ended up wearing most of the clothes we brought with us during the evenings when the temperature drops quite considerably.

Need to know about transportation

How to travel to astana.

There are several ways, depending on where you travel from.

How to travel to Astana from Almaty

Getting to Astana from Almaty by plane

I highly recommend traveling to Nur-Sultan by plane from Almaty. If you know your travel dates and book in advance, I found that it was cheaper to take the 1.5-2 hours flight than the 14-hour speed train. And it was definitely more comfortable (if the reports about the speed train being so bumpy making it impossible to sleep are true).

Getting to Astana from Almaty by train

There are two types of trains – the speed train and the slow train .

The speed train takes 14 hours overnight in both directions and most days there are 2 slow trains leaving mid-morning and taking roughly 24 hours.

For everything you need to know about taking the train in Kazakhstan read this post .

Tickets can be booked in person or online. For the speed train tickets cost $50-65 and for the slow train $20-30.

The Kazakhstan railways website is not available in English so unless you can read Cyrillic I recommend using Real Russia .

This site has a good search function in English to find train times so is useful even if buying your own ticket at the station.

In the summer and during holidays train tickets should be bought in advance.

For the speed train early booking discounts are up to 40% so it pays to plan ahead.

How to travel to Astana from Russia (Moscow)

This is not a cheap route with tickets costing around $300 per person . Trains depart every 2nd day on even-numbered dates and take 3-4 days to cover the 3,105km between the two cities.

Astana travel tip – This train only crosses the border one time. Other routes can cross it several times and there is some uncertainty about whether this means you need a double-entry visa. Make sure to check the visa needed for the train route you are taking.

How to travel from (China) Urumqi to Astana by train

Leaving every Saturday afternoon from Astana railway station the train arrives Monday morning in Urumqi. The return departs late on Monday getting into Nur-Sultan on Wednesday.

The train can only be booked through travel agents and costs upwards from $350 per person in a compartment with 4 beds. The journey takes nearly 40 hours with 8 of these spent at the border changing the wheels on the train carriage since the tracks in the two countries have different gauges.

How to move around Nur-Sultan

The buildings are enormous and distances deceptively far. Luckily there is a good bus system with routes marked at each stop making it easy to find which bus you need.

If in doubt you can find an interactive English route map here .

Buses run from 6-7am to 10-11pm and tickets costs 90T for shorter routes within the city and 150T for express routes. The most useful routes for sightseeing are:

10 – runs every 15 minutes from the bus station to the airport taking one hour via Zhenis, Moldagulova, Beibitshilik, Seufullin, Respublika, Konaev and Kabanbay Batyr
21 – Astana-1 to Bayterek Tower, Ak Orda, the pyramid and National Museum, via Zhengis, Sarayka, Qabanbay Batyr, Qonayev and Mangilik
32 – Astana Nurly Zhol to the old city via the pyramid, Ak Orda, Nurzhol bulvar, Turan dangyly and Respublika dangyly
40 – Astana-1 to the pyramid and Khan Shatyr via Seyfullin and Kenesary in old Nur-Sultan, and Sarayshyk, Mangilik and Dostyk in modern Nur-Sultan
505 Express bus – Express bus from Astana Nurly Zhol to Khan Shatyr, via the pyramid

How to get to and from the airport

Uber operates here and is a good option if the Wi-Fi on your phone can be used without high network charges.

Taxis are meant to cost 2,000-3,000T but we found that they wanted more. They will not use the meter so make sure you agree on a price before getting in. As with most countries in this region, Russian is widely spoken but English less so. You will probably have more luck negotiating a better price if you speak Russian.

Taking the bus is very easy. The bus stop is a few hundred metres to the left after exiting the terminal. The ticket price is either 90T or 150T (the higher price is for the express bus). Three bus routes pass through the airport leaving roughly every 15 minutes:

Bus #10 runs between the airport and the train station stopping at Khan Shatyr and down Qonayev Street. Travelling through the city centre this is likely to be the best option if you want to get the bus.
Express bus #100 runs between the airport and the train station
Express bus #500 runs between the airport and Astana Nurly Zhol in the very East of the city

Where to stay in Nur-Sultan

Budget – The Place Astana Hostel – Most of the budget options are outside the modern city centre. I always like to be walking distance from the sights and restaurants and the hostel with the best location and good reviews is The Place Astana Hostel.

Mid-Range – VIP House Hotel – Nur-Sultan is not a cheap city and midrange options are more expensive than in many other capitals. Close to the Singing Fountains and the Bayterek Tower is VIP House Hotel which comes with private bathrooms and good views.

Top-end – Rixos Garden Inn – Located close to Nurzhol Bulvar at the Khan Shatyr end. Rooms are of a standard that you would expect from any Western high-end chain.

Where to eat in Nur-Sultan

Looking at Google Maps plenty of restaurants are shown along Nurzhol Bulvar.

However, we found it difficult to find somewhere to stop for lunch. Some restaurants are only open in the evening and others only had a sign in Russian outside and dark windows making it difficult to know whether they were office buildings or restaurants.

Khan Shatyr has a food court with all the usual fast-food brands and some local restaurants but if you fancy something a bit different, I recommend going to Turan Avenue.

Like everywhere in this city, the distance is long between each restaurant but there are several cuisines available such as Korean, Uzbek, Japanese, Georgian and Italian. The designs are the most interesting part.

The Uzbek restaurant reminded me of the city walls in Khiva with blue-tiled domes. The Georgian eatery is built with stone defence towers and overhanging balconies like you see in Baku . My favourite, the Mill, is a Ukrainian restaurant that looks like a windmill with live chickens in the garden. Inside the interior is decorated like a country house with fake flowers.

Things to do in Astana: 3-day itinerary

I love cities with ‘unusual’ (that is probably a more polite description than ‘wacky’) architecture.

There are plenty of unique things to do in Astana that did not disappoint me but my husband was less convinced.

Although the city has a good bus service make sure you wear comfortable shoes since you will be doing a lot of walking whilst visiting the capital. Distances are long. The city was clearly designed with drivers rather than walking sightseers in mind.

This Kazakhstan itinerary suggests spending 3 days in the capital. If time is limited, all the buildings detailed below can be seen in two days.

Places to visit in Astana on day 1 – Left of the Ishim River

Most of the modern buildings to visit in Astana are located on this side of the river and you can easily spend a day walking up and down Nurzhol Bulvar. At night this area is lit up and in the Summer months, there is a musical water show every day at 9pm.

Khan Shatyr

Shopping is not normally part of my sightseeing plans but this is not your average shopping centre. In fact, this is one of the best places to visit in Nur-Sultan.

Standing at one end of Nurzhol Bulvar this translucent tent is the world’s largest marquee, and one of the most emblematic places to visit in Astana. But when you enter it feels smaller than the 10 football pitches that apparently can fit inside.

Inside it has a park, monorail, boating river, mini-golf and an indoor beach complete with palm trees and sand imported from the Maldives. To ensure that beachgoers have a comfortable temperature (even during freezing winter days) a chemical lining on the building ensures that it is a constant 35 degrees inside.

Bayterek Tower

The Bayterek Tower is probably the best-known building in Nur-Sultan and in my view the one you cannot leave without seeing. That will not be a problem since at 105m tall and with a prominent position in the middle of the Nurzhol Bulvar it is impossible to miss.

The observation deck is 97 metres high corresponding to the year Nur-Sultan became the capital. It was closed for an unknown reason when we visited and I was disappointed not to be able to put my hand in the gilded handprint of Nursultan and make a wish.

Although we did not make it to the top I would highly recommend going for the 360-degree views over the town. Entrance costs 700T.

Ak Orda – Presidential Palace

The first thought that struck me when I saw this building was how much it looked like the Whitehouse in Washington DC. Ak Orda means ‘the white headquarters’ so there is a similarity in the name as well as the design.

The architects aimed for something different and unrepeatable and although it is a striking I am not quite sure whether I would call it unique. It is not easy to stand out in a city full of futuristic buildings.

The large golden towers standing either side as you approach the Palace are the House of Ministries, dubbed ‘the beer cans’ by locals. In the square there is little else to see except for the Central Concert Hall.

Central Concert Hall

Located in the right corner of the Presidential Palace square it is easy to miss due to the tall buildings surrounding it, covering it from view unless you are nearly right in front of it.

Nur Astana Mosque

I think of Kazakhstan as more Russian than Central Asian but 70% of the population is Muslim. This explains why two of the three largest mosques in Central Asia are located here. With a capacity for 5,000 worshippers inside and 2,000 outside this is the third largest mosque in Central Asia.

Hazret Sultan mosque (see below) might have the most grandiose prayer room but I think, being built in white granite and with a large fountain outside, Nur Astana Mosque is the prettier of the two.

Bears and lion tamers are not an unusual site at the performances but there are no aliens despite the building looking like a flying saucer.

Circus has a long tradition in the Soviet Union but what made the architect construct a circus building shaped like a UFO, or the president give it the go ahead, is difficult to fathom.

If nothing else, it is certainly noticeable. As with everything in this city it is a bit of a walk from the other sights but for me, this weird building was worth the detour.

Things to do in Astana on day 2 – Right of the Ishim River

I found the left of the river has the most interesting architecture. The right side is expected to be built out significantly over the next 10 years and in 2030 plans are for the Pyramid to be the geographical center of Nur-Sultan.

Palace of Peace and Reconciliation – The Pyramid

The first draft of the Pyramid is said to have been the same size as the Great Pyramid in Egypt but that was too grand even for Nursultan and it was hastily reduced to about half the size. Despite being 62 meters tall and situated on a hill it was not as impressive as I thought it would be.

Entry is possible on a guided tour which runs roughly every 30 minutes between 10am and 6pm. Tickets cost 1,000T for adults and 650T for children.

English guides can be arranged at extra cost.

The Palace of Independence

This is an event space located in the square birds-nest-like building made of dark glass and steel. The only interesting thing to see here is the model of what Nur-Sultan will look like when it is finished, which is expected to be in 2030.

Kazakhstan has been suffering from a falling oil price over the last couple of years and the price having plummeted due to Coronavirus will make the state budget even tighter.

It will be interesting to see whether the city will ever be built out to the extent the previous president dreamt of.

Kazakh Eli Monument

A symbol of sovereignty with the height of the 91m tall pillar representing the year independence was gained from the Soviet Union in 1991.

The golden statue at the top is Samruk, the bird that laid the egg at the top of the Bayterek Tower.

Hazret Sultan Mosque

This is the largest mosque in Central Asia and can accommodate 10,000 worshippers. The prayer room is decorated in the colour of the Kazakh flag – blue, gold and white.

With its 51m high dome and a 3-ton chandelier this room alone makes the trip across the river worth it.

National Museum of Kazakhstan

An enormous white-marble building that covers the culture and history of Kazakhstan from ancient history up to the present day.

The museum is closed on Mondays and entry is 1,500T for adults with a further charge of 500T for photos and 2,000T for a guide.

Day 3 – Things to do near Astana

Being in the middle of nowhere, there are really only two actual places to visit around Astana:

ALZHIR Museum and Memorial Complex

Walking around Nur-Sultan with its new fancy buildings it is easy to forget that Kazakhstan was part of the Soviet Union. But a visit to this notorious concentration camp will bring it all back.

The 26th Gulag Point (as it was formally called) was for the women and children of dissenters. Little is left of the camp but the museum has recreated the huts prisoners lived in as well as the trains that brought them to the camp.

Minibuses to Akmol (also called Malinokva) depart roughly every hour and take 45 minutes. Tours can be booked in advance via the museum website . The museum is closed on Mondays.

Korgalzhyn Nature Reserve

With its 200 lakes Korgalzhyn is a popular stop for migrating birds. If you are an avid bird watcher the months of May and June are the best time to visit for the northward migration. Otherwise June to September are more interesting since salty lake Tengiz supports a large colony of flamingos at this time of year.

Local guest houses can arrange transport into the reserve. To see the flamingos you need a 4×4 which cost around 10,000T plus 3,000T for an official guide.

Shared taxis, which take two hours, are the best way to get there. The first ones depart at 10 a.m. but are very popular so make sure you arrive at least an hour before departure to secure a seat.

More information for visiting Astana

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

All guides and articles for traveling in Kazakhstan destination

Travel Guide to Kazakhstan
Uzbekistan-Kazakhstan border crossing
Train Guide in Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan Itinerary

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Thank you for the detailed guide to this unusual capital. I enjoyed almost every one of your highlights of Day 1 and Day 2 back in 2016 and might return some day for Day 3.

For what it’s worth, I enjoyed the 14-hour train ride from Almaty to Astana (Nur-Sultan). I showed my ticket to the uniformed woman on the platform. She said “Good evening” in English and that she was my conductor. She escorted me to my private cabin with an en suite bathroom and shower. It was a bumpy ride, but I was able to get a good night’s rest. (Perhaps it “rocked” me to sleep?) The conductor checked that I was awake well before our on-time arrival at 8:15 a.m. It was not expensive, did not require rides to and from airports, and saved me the expense of a night in a hotel. It might seem repetitive and boring to some, but I found the incredibly flat landscape had an eerie beauty along with the endless blue sky.

One recommendation: Try to get a ticket to the Astana Opera (The State Opera and Ballet Theatre). This massive Classical structure was completed in 2013 and has incredible acoustics. I got a same-day ticket online for around $5 and caught a shared taxi there for around $2. Arriving just before the opera started, the window to pick up my ticket appeared to be closed. I did my best to explain to the usher (in English), and she handed me a ticket for a box seat close to the stage. (I cannot guarantee this always happens–the website says to arrive a minimum of 10 minutes early–but people were very friendly in Kakakhstan.) The production of Madama Butterfly featured truly world-class performers. There were supertitles (over the stage) in Russian and Kazakh.

I am glad you enjoyed the guide. Sounds like I have to try the Opera next we go!

World » Asia » Middle East » Turkey

The best books on sultan süleyman, recommended by kaya şahin.

Peerless among Princes: The Life and Times of Sultan Süleyman by Kaya Şahin

The Ottoman ruler Süleyman was one of the most powerful men in early modern Europe and highly adept at building his reputation for posterity. In European languages, he is still often graced with the epithet 'the Magnificent.' The reality was much more mixed, as a new biography of Süleyman shows. Historian Kaya Şahin talks us through books to better understand Sultan Süleyman and the world he lived in.

Interview by Sophie Roell , Editor

Suleymanname: The Illustrated History of Suleyman the Magnificent by Esin Atil (editor)

The Age of Sinan: Architectural Culture in the Ottoman Empire by Gülru Necipoglu

Bureaucrat and Intellectual in the Ottoman Empire: The Historian Mustafa Ali by Cornell Fleischer

Empress of the East: How a Slave Girl Became Queen of the Ottoman Empire by Leslie Peirce

The best books on Sultan Süleyman - Four Princes: Henry VIII, Francis I, Charles V, Suleiman the Magnificent and the Obsessions that Forged Modern Europe by John Julius Norwich

Four Princes: Henry VIII, Francis I, Charles V, Suleiman the Magnificent and the Obsessions that Forged Modern Europe by John Julius Norwich

The best books on Sultan Süleyman - Suleymanname: The Illustrated History of Suleyman the Magnificent by Esin Atil (editor)

1 Suleymanname: The Illustrated History of Suleyman the Magnificent by Esin Atil (editor)

2 the age of sinan: architectural culture in the ottoman empire by gülru necipoglu, 3 bureaucrat and intellectual in the ottoman empire: the historian mustafa ali by cornell fleischer, 4 empress of the east: how a slave girl became queen of the ottoman empire by leslie peirce, 5 four princes: henry viii, francis i, charles v, suleiman the magnificent and the obsessions that forged modern europe by john julius norwich.

B efore we get to the books, can you just tell us a bit about who Süleyman was and why he’s significant? Why might people be interested in learning—or learning more—about him?

These global transformations are almost always described from a European perspective. Thus, the story of Süleyman is also important because it makes us realize the extent to which major European figures of the time—like Charles V or Francis I—interacted with the Ottomans and responded to them. Studying or reading about Süleyman tells us about this missing chunk in world history, it helps us complete the narrative.

Of course, the Ottomans are not the only non-European dynasty that is often left out. We have the Safavids, the Mughals , the Ming and then the Qing in China. Ivan IV, the czar of Muscovy , who was a close contemporary of Süleyman, is often left out of the narrative as well. Through Süleyman, I wanted to add a crucial component to the account of major global transformations, which is usually told from a Eurocentric perspective.

In terms of Süleyman’s own story, there are various elements that make his life interesting. For instance, he was not predestined to become sultan. Rather, he grew up with the distinct possibility of being killed during a succession struggle. His is the story of someone who grew up in a fratricidal dynastic culture, under the shadow of a violent, overbearing father. He then came to the throne in his mid-20s, as a relatively inexperienced prince. He tried to establish a nuclear family and an intimate life in the middle of the harem. But, because of the restrictions of the dynastic culture in which he lived, he ended up condoning the deaths of a number of his children and grandchildren. He spent the last few decades of his life trying to stay in power, to stay relevant, to construct a legacy that would erase the tensions and problems of his life and rule.

I think there is also an intriguing discussion about human agency versus structure. To what extent could you instigate change in 16th-century society? What was the cost? How much could you change the large structures you were a part of, even if you were at the top of the pyramid?

These are the reasons I think it’s interesting for people who like history to read a biography of Süleyman .

Süleyman was the longest-ruling Ottoman sultan. Is his reign the apex of the Ottoman Empire? Is it at its largest size, during this period?

Süleyman’s rule is seen as the apex of the Ottoman Empire, but not necessarily because of territorial expansion—a couple of Süleyman’s descendants in the late 16th century did expand it further. Under Süleyman, the empire did get close to reaching its largest territorial limits though, occupying today’s Iraq, parts of the Caucasus, Northern Africa and so on.

But his reign is mostly seen as the apex of the Ottoman Empire because of institutionalization. Under Süleyman, there was a critical level of bureaucratization. There was significant legislative activity, which enhanced dynastic law, and supplemented the sharia with different legal elements that made it easier to manage the Empire.

This is a selective reading, though, as I talk about in the conclusion of my book. It is very much conditioned by the political circumstances of the 19th and 20th centuries, when politicians and intellectuals looked to the Ottoman past to find precedents of rational bureaucratic or orderly rule, or military glory. It’s an image that was constructed in bits and pieces in the 19th and 20th centuries.

“He was fairly unknown when he became sultan”

That’s another reason why I wrote my biography. I wanted to situate Süleyman within his period and beyond these posthumous reconstructions. There were a lot of military victories, but there were also a lot of military stalemates. When you look at Süleyman’s intentions and his achievements, you can say that he failed on a number of levels. When we talk about institutionalization, we have to realize this was a very large territorial empire. If there was a crisis in Egypt for instance, it might take several weeks for the local governor to convey the problem to Istanbul to get back a response, of course, if the ship carrying the message didn’t sink or, if you were sending it by horse, the messenger survived the trip. I wanted to talk about the whole thing—the achievements as well as the failures, the dreams as well as the outcomes. I wanted to offer a complex picture as opposed to the simplifications that had been piling up, especially after Süleyman died.

Let’s turn to the books you’ve chosen. Let’s start with Suleymanname: The Illustrated History of Suleyman the Magnificent , edited by the art historian, Esin Atil. What’s this book about?

In the last decades of his life, Süleyman commissioned a work on his reign, and the result is a history in verse, written in Persian, with magnificent illustrations, called the Süleymanname , i.e., the Book of Süleyman . Esin Atil’s study is based on the original. She doesn’t offer a full translation, but I don’t think it is necessary, as the flowery, classicized language would be quite inaccessible for today’s readers. Instead, she offers a long and informative introduction to Süleyman’s reign and the art and culture of the Ottoman elite, then reproductions of all the illustrations in the Süleymanname , accompanied with detailed descriptions and interpretations by a skilled, perceptive art historian. At the end, there’s a very detailed index, a conceptual index. There’s also a dramatis personae -type section where individuals are matched with their depictions in the illustrations. It’s really amazingly done.

This is one of the two best books (the second one we will discuss next) that we have about Süleyman’s attempts at creating his own legacy visually. This is the first one I would recommend because it represents Süleyman’s own view of his legacy at a very difficult time in his life. The composition of the Süleymanname started in the second half of the 1540s, when Süleyman was increasingly feeling the impact of physical illness. He had gout and digestive problems. This was also a time when his sons were beginning to emerge as candidates to the sultanate. Pretty much everybody in the Ottoman realm—as well as the diplomatic observers, such as the French and the Italians—were expecting a succession struggle soon.

It was also a time of reflection for Süleyman. His major military campaigns and his imperialist agenda were very much projects associated with his earlier years on the throne. When he was younger, he had developed this image as a messianic conqueror who was going to bring peace to east and west. By the late 1530s, his ambitious youth projects had not necessarily been failures—they did lead to considerable territorial extension and the expansion of the sultan’s power—but, at the same time, they had led to entanglements with the Safavids and the Habsburgs which looked more and more like stalemates.

The 1540s thus marked a time when Süleyman was becoming much keener on institutionalization and legislative activity. As I mentioned before, he had always been careful about his image, but this was also the time that he started focusing on—to use an expression that my wife came up with, which I love—his self-curated legacy. That’s what he was doing, and the Süleymanname was a part of that attempt.

The original manuscript is in the Topkapi museum in Istanbul, is that right?

Yes, it’s in the Topkapi Palace Library. There’s only a single copy and the manuscript is intact, which is unusual. Some people think this shows it had limited readership. I think it was widely read, but by the innermost circle. It must have been seen as one of the crown jewels of Ottoman dynastic culture throughout the centuries by people who saw it.

The manuscript was illustrated and inscribed by a team of really accomplished artists and artisans. It took around 10 years to finish. I’m fairly certain Süleyman, who knew Persian very well, discussed the text with the author whose job it was to write the versified history. This was a kind of group project in which the sultan and people close to him gave input to a large number of artists and artisans, who produced a striking cultural and political statement.

What did Süleyman emphasize as he curated his own legacy? Are the military campaigns and the army getting to Vienna the most important? Or is the book more about charitable activities and non-military achievements?

The book was written from the late 1540s to the late 1550s. Chronologically speaking, it stops around 1555 so it doesn’t cover Süleyman’s last decade on the throne. Süleyman’s architectural legacy became more visible in the last decade-and-a-half of his life, and that’s not visible in the Süleymanname .

The Süleymanname starts with Süleyman’s arrival on the throne. By the way, it skips over the first 25 years of Süleyman’s life and, ever since, everybody else writing about his life has done the same. That’s another thing I wanted to correct. Nearly half my biography of Süleyman is about the Ottoman context as well as his childhood, and his youth. The Süleymanname then gives a quick description of the Ottoman Empire’s system of rule. It talks about the imperial council and the military power of the sultan. It’s almost a potted institutional history.

“There were a lot of military victories, but there were also a lot of military stalemates”

But the bulk of the book is about Süleyman’s exploits, him going on campaign, besieging cities, hunting alone or with his sons. Other important events are depicted as well, such as the flooding of the army camp during a campaign, etc. Overall, the image that emerges from the book is of Süleyman as conqueror, hunter, gentleman. Süleyman at court listening to music, Süleyman receiving ambassadors from Europe or from the Safavids, Süleyman giving an audience to the famous pirate Barbarossa. All that courtly stuff. A masculine, paternalistic image emerges. There’s almost nothing about charity. It’s very, very striking.

Let’s move on to the architecture book you’ve recommended. It’s called The Age of Sinan: Architectural Culture in the Ottoman Empire and it’s by Gülru Necipoglu , another Turkish American art historian, who is a professor at Harvard. Tell me about this book.

This book is a study of the life and work of Sinan, who was chief architect and who built most of his projects under Süleyman. He was probably of Armenian origin, from Central Anatolia. Ottoman agents would go to the provinces and select children for Ottoman service. This Armenian child became one of the most defining figures of Ottoman culture to this day. He was the most prolific architect of the entire span of the Empire. He was also extremely gifted. He developed both building methods and standards and new aesthetic styles for mosques large and small, for bridges, for convents, for soup kitchens.

This book is about Sinan’s life and work. It gives an exhaustive list of everything he ever built and looks at his relationship with members of the Ottoman elite. Süleyman as well as his wife and daughter play a very large role in the book, as does the son who succeeded him as sultan.

Sinan’s most prolific period was during the reign of Süleyman. Using architecture, Süleyman was creating very tangible signs of his presence, his persona, and his charity. His wife had started earlier, in the late 1530s. Süleyman started in the mid to late 1540s. He dotted the entire realm with these architectural signs, these very visible buildings that told people about the sultan. These buildings reflected the image Süleyman wanted to leave behind. It’s an image that doesn’t emerge in the Süleymanname , the illustrated history book. The architectural building program projects the image of a charitable sultan who catered to all the needs of his subjects. If you look at his building complex in Istanbul, for instance, the central piece is a mosque, but it also has a library, it has a bathhouse, it has a caravanserai or guesthouse. It has a soup kitchen that distributes food to people. You can go to the sultan’s soup kitchen and have a free meal. These are all free services.

If you look at the locations, a related picture emerges. Jerusalem was a major recipient of Süleyman’s charity. The walls of Jerusalem, which are still visible today, were built under Süleyman. Süleyman’s wife had a large soup kitchen and fountains built in Jerusalem. Süleyman is the Arabicized/Turkicized form of Solomon. People did call him the second Solomon, the Solomon of our age, and it is quite likely that Süleyman and his wife wanted to underline those Solomonic connections through their charity in Jerusalem. He also had a lot of charitable works in Mecca and Medina. On the way there, in Damascus for instance, he had waystations built for pilgrims.

The architectural legacy projected the image of a charitable, pious, devout, mature, sultan. It supplemented the image found in the Süleymanname. The best way to learn about all that and also about the life of this extremely talented, creative, wonderful artist, Sinan, is by reading this book.

Some of Sinan’s bridges and mosques are beautiful, does the book have lots of pictures?

Let’s go on to the next book, which is about the Ottoman historian Mustafa Ali: Bureaucrat and Intellectual in the Ottoman Empire.

This book is by my dissertation advisor, Cornell H. Fleischer [1] , but that’s not the reason why I chose it. This is one of the most accomplished books ever written about the Ottoman Empire. It revolves around the life of an ambitious, interesting character. Mustafa Ali was born in 1541. He grew up, went to school and got his first position as secretary to an Ottoman prince during the reign of Süleyman. He was 25 when Süleyman died. So he was someone who was very much imbued with the ethos of Süleyman’s reign: meritocracy, the rule of law, and bureaucratic rationality.

Mustafa Ali became a very frustrated person later in life because, like many others, he realized that the ideals of his youth did not correspond to reality. He gave voice to his frustration through writing. He composed a large number of works: histories, poetry, works on morals, etiquette, etc. He emerged as the voice of discontent about the loss of meritocratic ideals, about the failures of the Ottoman system to incorporate gifted people into it and the pitfalls of patronage. He also realized that some of the problems he dwelled upon might have started or already existed under Süleyman.

This is a meticulously researched and beautifully written biography of a prolific intellectual from the second half of the 16th century, but also a terrific study about how Süleyman’s ideals and Süleyman’s legacy were seen and interpreted during his life and shortly after. The book also has sections about historical consciousness and history writing, the emergence of a bureaucratic identity and bureaucratic consciousness among these cadres of madrasa-educated secretaries. We get to see how a particular type of Ottoman identity—not only for the uppermost elite, but for other educated people, upper middle-class people in today’s terms—was ingrained in this particular period.

Finally, in this study, we also see the emergence of critical voices within Ottoman society, or at least within the elite. This is a perspective that is usually lacking in traditional understandings of the Ottoman Empire, which see Süleyman’s time as its apex. Mustafa Ali started with that assumption but realized that it really was not the case. It was an interesting moment of awakening for him.

I saw Mustafa Ali’s books include one which is called The Essence of History in English, which is a great title. Are the books Mustafa Ali himself wrote interesting and accessible to read?

We’re now at the fourth book you’ve recommended which looks really interesting. This is Empress of the East by historian Leslie Peirce, which is all about Süleyman’s wife, Hürrem. Tell me about her.

Süleyman’s wife entered the Ottoman orbit as a slave woman. Ottoman dynastic reproduction when Süleyman was born relied on sexual intercourse between an Ottoman prince and a concubine. In earlier centuries, Ottoman princes had married princesses from neighboring dynasties, both Muslim and Christian. But as the Empire became larger, and as the power of the sultan kept increasing, it seems that there came a turning point. Concubinage had existed before, but at some point in the early to mid-15th century, the Ottomans decided to reproduce the dynasty only through concubines in order to make sure that the princes become purely Ottoman products.

This is very similar to the devşirme system, which I discuss in the book and through which the architect Sinan was taken into Ottoman service. Ottoman agents would go around the countryside and select good-looking, smart-sounding, early adolescents, and take them into Ottoman service through conversion and education. They would be given a new name. Even though some of them maintained relationships with their family members, they were purely Ottoman products, and they remained the slaves of the sultan. So slavery was used both to create this loyal service class and to create Ottoman princes. According to the sharia, if a Muslim man has a child by a slave, whether Muslim or non-Muslim, that child becomes a Muslim, and is recognized as a free person.

So Süleyman’s wife was taken into the Ottoman realm through slavery. There are discussions about when she met Süleyman—it was probably after he became sultan. She may have been one of the slave women who was given to Süleyman as a gift upon his accession, or she may have been taken into his household during his time as prince shortly before he became sultan.

She came from what is now Ukraine, right?

Yes, she came from that Eurasian steppe which was a major hunting ground for slave merchants at this time. The numbers are horrifying—a couple of million people were enslaved, according to some estimates. And yet, it’s very rarely part of the discussion. For both historiographical reasons and understandable political reasons there is much more focus on Africa and slavery. Also, past Ottoman historians have been quite ‘successful’ in trying to erase the legacy of slavery. That’s why I’m bringing all these different pieces into discussion, as I do in my book. For instance, I point out in the introduction, ‘You think Süleyman was a guy who did interesting things? Well, he was surrounded by slaves. Even his wife was a slave, even though he liberated her at some point.’

Hürrem would probably have been converted to Islam before she entered Süleyman’s household. It’s likely that she received some education in the household. We know through her correspondence that she knew how to read. She may have known how to write. I looked at letters by Süleyman’s mother, who was also a slave. The writing is obviously that of someone who has learned to write late in their lives and Hürrem may have been the same.

Süleyman had relationships with concubines before he met Hürrem. He had children, many of them dying in infancy, but at least one son from another concubine survived into adulthood and was eventually executed.

“Competition was required to survive in this environment”

But after Süleyman met Hürrem, he became increasingly monogamous. We don’t know what the attraction between the two was. There’s no documentation about how they met or what they felt about each other. But we know from the reports of diplomats in Istanbul that Süleyman formed a monogamous family in the midst of the harem, which was a system that was established to make sure that a prince had sex with different concubines and had children with them. When a concubine produced a son, the prince was supposed to move on to the next concubine. I think this was a crude Ottoman understanding of evolution. They had an idea of something like a gene pool, which you could extend by producing princes from different concubines.

Süleyman didn’t want that. He became monogamous in the early years of his sultanate. He had an interesting relationship with women because we also have indications that he had a close relationship with his mother and his sisters. Even before his wife became a visible presence in the life of the Ottoman dynasty, Süleyman supported his mother, and gave her significant resources to create a charitable complex to her own name. Süleyman tried to create personal and intimate relationships that have left behind traces, which tells us that these were significant relationships for him.

I started reading the book and it seemed like a very clear and accessible account, by a serious historian, of Hürrem’s life and what we know about her.

By all accounts, Hürrem was an extremely gifted, intelligent person. We have her letters. She was someone who was capable of great intimacy, who became a refuge for her husband. Süleyman was very conflicted. He lived in the midst of this very violent, masculine dynastic culture. But he also displayed an element of vulnerability—in his poetry, for instance, that’s quite visible. His wife became a companion for him. She also became an informant. When he was on campaign, they corresponded. She told him about the gossip in the palace and around Istanbul; she was his confidant.

Hürrem also started creating her own architectural legacy and I think Leslie Peirce is right that she was the first female member of the Ottoman dynasty to create a visible architectural legacy in the capital city itself. We have examples in the provinces, but it was the first time a woman of the dynasty was building a mosque complex and soup kitchen in Istanbul to her name.

Hürrem was one of Süleyman’s biggest supporters. Süleyman manumitted her and she died as a free person in 1558. Süleyman had multiple children by Hürrem, including four boys. Immediately after she died, her two surviving sons entered into a deadly succession contest that determined the tenor of the last years of Süleyman’s reign.

We’d better get on to the last book, which is by John Julius Norwich and is called Four Princes: Henry VIII, Francis I, Charles V, Suleiman the Magnificent and the Obsessions that Forged Modern Europe. You mentioned at the beginning that people study Europe, and they don’t study Turkey. I studied history in the UK, and I can tell you that we studied Henry VIII two or three times, but even Francis I and Charles V didn’t make the cut.

Yes, this is a very important point. Looking from the Middle East, Eurocentrism looks unified, but there are also these nationalist historiographies. If we were doing this interview in French, you would be telling me that you studied Francis I, Charles V was the enemy, the Turks reluctant allies and Henry was a madman who tried to invade France. There’s also an Islamocentrism we have to push back against. If you study in the Middle East, you rarely get to hear about any of these European characters, or even the Safavids. They are shadowy presences on the margins of the Ottoman Empire. But Charles V was in Süleyman’s thoughts every day—and vice versa—for three decades.

This is a book that does push against those nationalist understandings of the 16th century. For the British reader, Norwich does a great job because he talks about the limitations of a British understanding of history. He wrote the book when he was older, and wanted to revisit and reconsider his own education in the 1950s. Things may be better now, but he says they would rarely hear about Charles, and when they did hear about him it was mostly as him being a Spaniard, which he wasn’t. He was from Burgundy. Charles learned to speak Spanish because he had to, but he communicated in French.

The book is very readable, and Norwich does a wonderful job of identifying, beyond national concerns, the kinds of challenges that these four figures faced in a 16th-century environment. Norwich was not a professional historian and he tells their stories from a personal perspective. There’s a risk to his book because it places the individual person at the center, but it’s a great introduction to a global understanding of 16th-century history. As you’re reading you notice, ‘Oh! this happened to Süleyman. Then the same thing happened to Francis I. How come?’ And you start thinking about the dynamics of the period.

These people lived in the same space and they—or their agents—interacted in a variety of ways. They lived at a time after the Mongol invasions, after the Black Death, after the feudal violence of late medieval Europe, when you saw the consolidation of new kinds of empires and states. They lived at a time when, as a result of the widespread use of gunpowder, warfare became much more costly and more violent. There are a number of threads that unify these rulers.

As I said, Norwich is not a professional historian and the bibliography is very short. There are a couple of mistakes in the Ottoman sections. But it’s entertaining to read and I enjoyed it tremendously. He was a great writer. It shows that with the right mindset, you don’t have to know Ottoman Turkish to have a decent understanding of the Ottomans.

Norwich is a good starting point against Eurocentric as well as nationalist understandings of the period and it pulls in the reader interested in biography and in history into a much wider understanding of the 16th century. It creates curiosity. It’s a really well-done book in that regard.

Can you give some examples of things these rulers were pushed into, where you think, ‘Oh, that’s the same, even though they were presiding over four very different societies’?

They all had money problems. They had issues with dynastic reproduction, they had issues with their children. They had health issues. They burned out as a result of their imperial ventures. When you go beyond the personal and the national, you start seeing, structurally, what it entailed to be a ruler. Also, what it meant to live in that particular period, as a member of a wealthy, military-political elite that was constantly in competition. It was very male, very patriarchal, and very paternalistic and that played an important role in the lives of all of them.

This was a time of state building and bureaucratization and new kinds of warfare. They were competing against each other; competition was required to survive in this environment. They also had to compete with members of their elite and aristocracies because, at a time of state building, the power of the crown and of the dynasty was increasing. They had all sorts of problems with how to incorporate local elites and aristocracies.

Süleyman was luckier than the others because the Ottomans had exterminated local aristocracies and created their own upper elite through conversion, this service class that was mostly made up of slaves. But Süleyman still had to manage that class, to keep them happy. He had to pay them on time because they received stipends. He couldn’t keep them on campaign too long because they would rebel. They were elite soldiers. Charles had the same problems: the Spanish cities rebelled. Henry had the same problems and Francis had the same problems.

As you think about the individuals as well as the time and society they lived in, you develop more of a historical understanding in the scholarly sense.

That’s so interesting. It makes me a bit more charitable towards Henry VIII because I’ve always been very, very angry with him, thinking, ‘Why did he kill his wives? What a bastard!’ Now I can see that maybe, compared to other things going on at the time, he wasn’t quite as bad as he seems from a modern perspective.

That’s a great point. My wife Rita and I have been discussing these things. We were in Upsala for almost a year in the middle of the pandemic, at the Swedish Collegium for Advanced Study, while I was writing this biography of Süleyman. I wrote it, Rita read it, we edited it together a number of times. We had long conversations wondering, ‘What kind of a person are we looking at? Am I going to have some ethical second thoughts after publishing this biography?’ We decided not to over-psychologize these characters, either for good reasons or bad. Otherwise, you think, ‘What a decent man Süleyman was! He spent millions of gold coins in charitable works.’ Or ‘What a bastard Süleyman was! He had two of his sons and many grandchildren executed.’

Henry had two of his wives executed; Süleyman had his own children and grandchildren executed. As rulers they were compelled to do those things, but they also did it to maximize their power. That is the moment where individual will breaks against tradition. Henry could have said, ‘OK, no male heir, that’s fine. The House of York can come back to the throne after I die.’ He didn’t do that. That’s the nasty part. Süleyman didn’t say, ‘You know what, I’m going to designate one of my sons as the next sultan.’ He didn’t do that. They were stuck in these structures that also shaped them. It was partly their own fault, but it partly wasn’t. They were born into this dynastic, male environment. By the time they came to the throne, they had already been molded so much it was impossible for them to change those major structures. It’s one of the tragic aspects of their lives. Süleyman is credited with creating a new bureaucratic system which was revolutionary, but he couldn’t change the succession practice to save his own sons. He didn’t even try.

[1] Note from Kaya Şahin: “ Shortly after this interview, we lost Cornell H. Fleischer. During my training with him and later, in many conversations, the five books discussed above were often mentioned. Cornell’s legacy lives in his book and articles and through the work of his students.”

June 5, 2023

Five Books aims to keep its book recommendations and interviews up to date. If you are the interviewee and would like to update your choice of books (or even just what you say about them) please email us at [email protected]

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Five Books interviews are expensive to produce. If you've enjoyed this interview, please support us by donating a small amount .

Kaya Şahin is Professor of History and the Executive Associate Dean of the Hamilton Lugar School of Global and International Studies at Indiana University.

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Sultans Trail

A european cultural route.

Welcome on the Sultans Trail

The Sultans Trail is a long-distance hiking and cycling trail from Vienna to Istanbul , with a length of 2500 km. It takes an average person 15 weeks to complete the entire Sultans Trail. Cyclists need around 4 weeks to do so.

Nature, History and Culture

The trail runs through amazing nature and idyllic old villages with Ottoman, Habsburg, Byzantine, Roman and Communist heritage, from archaeological sites, old monasteries to brutalist architecture. As many civilizations had their influence you will be surprised with this rich mishmash of cultures.

When you are interested in nature, history and culture you will love this old route to Istanbul. The different trade routes, wars and rules have all left their traces, this route is full of memories of the ancient past that you can find in the most unlikely places.

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Contrary to its past, then a path of conquest, the Sultans Trail nowadays is a path of peace, a meeting place for people of different faiths, cultures and backgrounds. That’s why we choose consciously to let this Sultans Trail, a European Cultural Route, run back from Vienna to Istanbul, from conquest to “collaboration in diversity”.

Together with the help of many ever so kind people, councils, and of course OpenStreetMap, we established a respectable hiking trail through eight countries: Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, Greece, and Turkey.

Volunteers The Sultans Trail project always welcomes people who want to join or volunteer . You can contact us here or by email to [email protected]

You can view pictures we made along the way and the videos of events we organized to get the Trail marked with GR-codes and stickers we have developed to mark the Sultans Trail.
In de spring of 2020 the BBC showed three wonderful episodes on BBC2. For those who missed it here are the trailers. For the full broadcasts, it is only possible to see it with a BBC subscription. We thank all employees of CCTV and BBC for the magnificent” Pilgrimage: Road to Istanbul

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In the meantime, there are many people working on:

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Evolving in the Sultans Trail App (Android),
a downloadable Information Packet (Android, Apple and Garmin) and travel guides

Recently we had three wonderful episodes on BBC2, for those who missed it here are the trailers. For the full broadcasts, it is only possible to see it with a BBC subscription. We thank all employees of CCTV and BBC for the “magnificent” Pilgrimage: Road to Istanbul

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