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The Man in Seat 61

A beginner's guide to

Train travel in india.

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The best way to see India is at ground level on the incredible Indian railway system, not from 35,000 feet.  Experience the bustle of Indian railway stations and a comfortable journey on an Indian express train with the tea seller's cry of Chai, chai, garam chai wafting down the aisle.  Forget media images of crowded local trains with people sitting on the roof.  In an AC Chair Car or AC1 or AC2 sleeper on an express, all seats & berths are reserved and it’s safe, civilised, inexpensive & comfortable.  Even journeys such as Mumbai to Delhi or Delhi to Jaisalmer can be covered time-effectively by overnight sleeper, centre to centre, saving a hotel bill too.  Book Indian train tickets online at 12go.asia

Useful country information

Train routes & maps.

India's passenger rail network is the third biggest in the world after Russia and China, with 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations.  In terms of passenger kilometres, it's the biggest in the world.  Indian Railways are the world's biggest employer, with over 1.5 million staff.

The trains in India go almost everywhere, and it's generally safe to assume that you can travel between any two Indian cities or major towns by train, the length and breadth of the country.

Most of India's rail network is broad gauge with rails 5' 6" apart, wider than standard gauge (4' 8½") used in Europe, allowing Indian trains to be wider than European trains.  Parts of the country such as Rajasthan used to be served by an extensive metre-gauge network, but most metre-gauge routes have now been converted to broad gauge.  A few hill railway such as Kalka-Simla and New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling use narrow gauge, either 2' or 2' 6".

For an Indian railways route map see surveyofindia.gov.in/files/Railway map_Eng_C.jpg (please let me know if this stops working).

Also try www.mapsofindia.com/maps/india/india-railway-map.htm , or indiarailinfo.com/atlas .

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How to check train times & fares

It can be easiest to check train schedules & fares for the main tourist routes at agency website 12go.asia , this can also sell you a ticket, hassle-free.

For train times & fares for any journey in India use www.indianrail.gov.in .

This is one of the various official Indian Railways websites, an amazing site but a little bewildering, not helped by there being another official site, www.indianrailways.gov.in .  It's a good training course for your travels in India.

To check train times, look for Reserved Train Between Stations at the top of their home page.

To check fares, first find a train and note the train number, then click Fare enquiry at the top of their home page.

To check availability over various dates, first find a train and note the train number, then click Seat availability at the top of their home page.

Or download an app for your phone.  There are many apps to choose from, the official IRCTC apps seem unavailable outside India so try these 3rd-party apps for checking Indian train times on the go.  They're ad-heavy, but they work, I find Ixigo the best.

Indian Rail IRCTC for iPhone or Indian Rail IRCTC for Android .

Ixigo for iPhone or Ixigo for Android .

You can also buy the famous Trains at a Glance timetable booklet for 100 rupees at any station bookstall (it makes a great souvenir), or click here to download the pages you need for free .  This shows times in printed form for most major stations on all the main routes.

Tips for checking Indian train times

Which station in which city .

Kashmir originally had no rail connection, but a line to Srinagar and beyond has now been completed with more under construction.  The line heads through tough terrain, and features the highest railway bridge in the world.  Srinagar's station code is SINA (not to be confused with another smaller Srinagar in Rajasthan with station code SNAR).

Khajuraho (a much-visited temple complex) now has a station, station code KURJ.  There's a daily overnight train called the Kurukshetra-Khajuraho Express leaving New Delhi station at 18:20, picking up at Agra Cantonment around 21:35 and arriving in Khajuraho at 08:00 next morning.  It  returns from Khajuraho at 18:35 arriving New Delhi at 08:45.

Example train times

Example fares from delhi.

£1 = 105 Rupees, €1 = 90 Rupees, $1 = 82 Rupees.

Shatabdi Express = Premier daytime train, special fare payable, meals included.

Rajdhani Express = Premier overnight train, special fare payable, meals included.

Child fares on Indian trains since April 2016:   Children aged 0 to 4 inclusive travel free.  Children aged 5 to 11 inclusive travel at half fare if they do not take up a reserved seat or berth, but as from April 2016 they must pay the adult fare if they travel with their own reserved seat or berth.  I do not recommend that any child aged 5 to 11 travels without their own seat or berth in AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair car or Sleeper Class, so this effectively means you must now pay the adult fare for children aged 5 and over.  Children aged 12 and over pay the adult fare in all cases.

Classes explained

Which class to choose.

Above, a typical long-distance express or mail train with older carriages (not a premier Rajdhani or Duronto express).  You can just make out 3 cars in the centre of the train with different windows.  These are the AC cars, perhaps one AC1, one AC2 & one AC3 car.  The rest of the train is Sleeper class.  Courtesy of Albert Höchst.

Types of train

Which train to choose.

Executive Chair (EC) class on a Vande Bharat Express.  These are India's most modern trains, capable of 160 km/h (100 mph) & used at up to 130 km/h (80 mph).  See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vande_Bharat_Express .  Photos courtesy of Nonstop Eurotrip , see video of Varanasi-Delhi Vande Bharat Express .

AVL, CNF, RAC & Waitlist

You need a reservation to travel on Indian long-distance trains, you can't just turn up and hop on.  Reservations are fully computerised using the world's largest computer reservation system.  Trains get fully-booked weeks in advance, so buy tickets as far ahead as possible.

When do bookings open?

Bookings for most Indian long-distance trains currently open 120 days before departure.

It was 60 days until 2008, when it was experimentally extended to 90 days, then it was experimentally extended even further to 120 days in 2012, reduced again to 60 days in 2013 to make ticket 'scalping' by agencies harder, but restored to 120 days as from 1 April 2015. 

Some short-distance inter-city trains may open for bookings less than this, for example Delhi-Kalka & Kalka-Simla may open only 30 days or in some cases just 15 days ahead.

The remarkable Indian Railways system

Indian Railways have a unique system with 4 possible statuses for seats/berths/bookings:

AVL = Available , these are seats or berths that are unsold and available for booking.

CNF = Confirmed .  When you book an available seat or berth, your PNR status (Personal Name Record) becomes CNF, confirmed.  You're safely booked on the train with a specific seat or berth.

RAC = Reservation Against Cancellation .  When all the seats or berths on a train in a given class have been sold, a certain number of tickets in that class are sold as Reservation Against Cancellation, or RAC.

WL = Waitlist .  When all the RAC places have been sold, further prospective passengers can buy Waitlist (WL) tickets.

If you go to www.indianrail.gov.in & click Seat availability you can see how many seats remain available in each class on a given train.

For example, today is 26 January, let's say I want to go from Delhi to Kolkata on the best train, the overnight Howrah Rajdhani in AC 2-tier. Tomorrow's train is fully-booked in AC2 and shown as NOT AVAILABLE.  I can buy Waitlisted tickets for this train on 28 and 29 January.  I can buy RAC tickets on any day between 30 January & 5 February and if I buy those I can definitely board the train and travel with (in practice) maybe a 90% chance of ending up with a berth to myself.  The first day on which AC 2-tier is shown as AVL so I can buy a ticket and instantly get a confirmed berth is 6 February.  The Foreign Tourist quota would help me here, there are 7 or 8 FT quota places shown as AVL every day from 27 January onwards, but I'll explain that in the quotas section .

Reservation Against Cancellation (RAC)

With an RAC ticket, you're allowed to board the train and travel.  Whatever happens, you know you're safely booked on that train.  So if you're offered an RAC ticket you should take it, even though you won't have a specific seat or berth number at this stage.

In the vast majority of cases, one of the confirmed passengers will cancel or unsold tickets will be left in one of the more obscure quotas on departure day and you'll be promoted from RAC to CNF with a confirmed seat or berth on the train.

Your name will then be shown against a specific seat or berth number on the reservation list pinned on the notice board at the boarding station on the day of travel when the train is charted , or you can check your PNR (Personal Name Record) status online .  A waitlisted passenger will be promoted from WL to RAC in your place.

In the unlikely event that nobody cancels, you'll be given a place to sit (but not a berth) in a carriage of the class you've booked.  For example, two RAC passengers might be given seats on a bunk that would normally be for one person.  In most cases, at least one of the confirmed passengers will fail to show up for the train and the on-board staff will allocate their berth to the passenger holding ticket RAC1.  The passenger holding ticket RAC2 will then be left with a berth to themselves, solving two RAC passengers' problems!  In the worst case scenario, if there were no no-shows the RAC passengers would have to sit up all night or take turns using the berth to snooze, but in practice this seldom happens.  Like I said, if an RAC place is available, you should take it.

A downside of buying RAC tickets as a couple, family or small group is that you might be split up, because you get the places freed up when people cancel or which are left when tickets remain unsold in special quotas.  But there's usually only one or two AC2 or AC3 cars on a given train, so in those classes you probably won't be far apart.

Incidentally, RAC tickets exist in AC2, AC3 & SL, but not in AC1, EC, CC or FC.  In AC1, EC, CC & FC, passengers are always CNF or WL.

Waitlist (WL)

With a WL ticket you cannot travel, unless you are promoted to RAC or CNF before departure.

Each WL ticket has two numbers at any given moment in time, for example WL10/WL3.

The first number is the ticket's original Waitlist number.  In this example, WL10 means you bought the Number 10 Waitlist ticket allocated to this train, 10th in the queue when the train opened for booking.  This number won't change, even if you are promoted to a confirmed place (CNF), your ticket will always be WL10 and shown as such on the reservation list.

The second number is your current position in the queue, this number will reduce as people cancel.  On websites & apps that show only one WL number rather than two, this is the number it shows.  In this example WL10/WL3 means that 7 people have already cancelled and you are now 3rd in line for promotion to RAC.  If 3 more people cancel, you'll be promoted to RAC and can travel.

If more people cancel you may even be promoted to CNF with a confirmed seat or berth.  With a low-numbered WL ticket you've a good chance of this happening.  For example, one traveller reports having Waitlisted places between WL1 and WL10 on numerous trips, and always successfully got promoted to CNF with a confirmed place on the train, usually in the 24 hours before departure as that's when all the movement takes place from tickets in unsold quotas being used to reduce the number of WL & RAC passengers.

Keep checking your PNR status online .  Even if you're only promoted to RAC, you can at least travel.  If the train is charted and you're still only Waitlisted, then you can't travel and your fare will automatically be refunded, less a minor clerkage fee.

How likely is a given WL ticket to be confirmed?

There are now several websites that claim to predict how likely it is that a given WL ticket will be confirmed and allow you on the train, based on historical data.  Try entering your PNR into trainman.in , or use it to see what the current availability of a given train is, and how likely it is that if you bought WL tickets they'd be confirmed by departure.

The Vikalp scheme (ATAS)

There's yet another process to help Waitlisted passengers.  When you buy a WL ticket, you may be asked if you want to opt in to the Vikalp scheme, also known as Alternate Train Accommodation Scheme or ATAS.  Vikalp is Hindi for option .

If you tick the Vikalp box, you're offered a selection of possible alternative trains and you can choose which of these you'd be willing to take if you can't get a berth on the train you've booked.  Then, if you are still Waitlisted (WL) when your original train is charted (so you can't travel on it), and if space is available in the same class on one of your chosen alternative trains, you'll be given a confirmed (CNF) berth on that instead.

An alternative train is one between the same or similar origin & destination leaving between 30 minutes & 72 hours after your original choice of train.  For example, a train leaving from Old Delhi or Delhi H.Nizamudin might be considered alternatives to a train from New Delhi.

If there are several of you on one PNR, either all of you will be given places on an alternative train or none of you will, so don't worry, you won't be split up.  However, once you opt in to Vikalp, you can't opt out again.  And if you are transferred to a CNF place on an alternative train and decide you don't want it, you can cancel but only in line with the terms & conditions of a CNF place, which means a partial refund less the CNF cancellation fees (as an unsuccessful Waitlisted passenger on your original train you'd normally have been refunded almost all of your money).

Charting is the process of drawing up the final passenger list for each carriage of a given train, allocating names to berths.  The list is posted on the reservations notice board at stations or you can check your PNR status online .

During this process, any unsold tickets in quotas such as handicapped, military or parliamentary are released, freeing up places so RAC passengers can be moved up to Confirmed (CNF) and WL passengers to RAC or CNF.  So if you have a WL ticket and haven't already been promoted to RAC or CNF as passengers cancel, this is when you discover whether or not you're on the train.

It's also at this point that specific berth numbers are allocated to AC1 sleeper passengers, which is why you can't choose between an AC1 2-berth coupé and an AC1 4-berth compartment when you book.

Charting for trains leaving their origin station between 12:00 & 23:00 takes place around 4 hours before departure from that station.

Charting for trains leaving their origin between 23:00 & 12:00 takes place 19:00-21:00 Monday-Saturday or 13:00-15:00 Sundays & holidays.

How to check your current status

You can confirm your current PNR (Personal Name Record) status as WL, RAC or CNF at www.indianrail.gov.in/pnr_Enq.html or using one of the apps suggested above , by entering the PNR number shown on your ticket.

Remember that things can change even on the day of departure, most movement happens shortly before departure, when the train is charted.

When you buy a ticket, it comes from a specific quota.  A quota is simply an allocation of tickets for a particular type of traveller such as  senior, handicapped, military or government, on each train in each class.  By default, tickets come from the General quota.

General (GN) quota

Remote location (rl) & pooled (pq) quotas, handicapped, senior & ladies quotas.

The Senior quota is only for Indian seniors so don't use this if you're not Indian.

The Ladies quota only exists in Sleeper class & AC3, it gets you berths in one small bay reserved for women, it's hardly worth bothering with.

The Lower Berth quota is for anyone with mobility issues who can't use the ladder to the upper berths, so absolutely needs a lower. 

When a train is charted and the final reservation list is compiled, any unsold seats or berths in these quotas will be freed up used to reduce the RAC/Waitlist, promoting RAC passengers to CNF and WL passengers to RAC and (once all RAC passengers are confirmed) CNF.

Foreign Tourist (FT) quota

Many important trains have a small Foreign Tourist (FT) quota of seats or berths available only to foreign tourists.  The purpose of the FT quota is to allow foreign tourists to book trains at short notice notice when the General quota is fully-booked.

It's not a foolproof way to travel around India without pre-booking:  There's an FT quota on only 200 trains a day out of some 9,000 trains, and the quota might be just 2 places, seldom more than 12, in one or two specific classes, typically AC1 & AC2 or CC.  So even using the FT quota, you may have to wait a day or so before there is a berth available to your chosen destination in your chosen class.

For example, today is 25 January, the earliest date for which AC2 tickets available from the General quota on the Delhi-Varanasi Swatantrtwa Express is 11 February. But if I look at the Foreign Tourist quota, although there are no tickets today, there are two tickets available in AC2 tomorrow, and on each of the following few days.

If you buy an FT quota ticket at a ticket office or tourist reservation centre, you must pay in US Dollars, pounds sterling, or rupees backed by an exchange certificate proving they've come from a bank or bureau de change in exchange for foreign currency.  Rupees backed by an ATM receipt and foreign bank card are usually sufficient.  You can now book tickets from the Foreign Tourist quota when booking online .

Let's be clear, as a foreign tourist, you don't have to book from the FT quota.  Anyone of any nationality can book from the General quota whenever it's available.  And FT tickets are a little more expensive than tickets from the General quota, too.

Indeed, if there are still seats available in the General quota when you book, you shouldn't use the FT quota .  Because later on when the train is fully-booked, some other overseas visitors may urgently need those precious few FT places, desperate to get a train back to Delhi for their flight home.  If you used up all the FT places weeks ahead when you didn't need to, those travellers may be stranded!

Tatkal (TQ & PT) quotas

To allow travel at short notice on trains that are often fully-booked weeks before departure, Indian Railways introduced a system called Tatkal (Hindi for immediate ).  A number of tickets on key trains are held back and released at 10:00 one day before departure (originally 72 hours before departure, reduced to 2 days back in 2009 and just 1 day in 2011).  They are sold with a Tatkal fee of 10% of the fare in 2nd class or 30% in all other classes.  There are in fact two Tatkal quotas, regular Tatkal (TQ quota) with fixed fares, and Premium Tatkal (PT quota) with variable fares that increase with demand.  Tatkal places can also be booked online .  If there are seats available in the Foreign Tourist quota then the Tatkal quota may be irrelevant for you, if not, the Tatkal system can be useful.

How to buy tickets online

Indian trains often get fully-booked weeks in advance as demand usually exceeds supply.  So if you have a fixed itinerary and limited time you should buy tickets in advance before you get to India.

I recommend ticketing agency 12go.asia as option 1 for good reason:  It's hassle-free, even though it only does the principle trains on the routes usually requested by visitors.  It only sells confirmed tickets, it doesn't sell RAC or WL places.  It happily accepts overseas credit cards.

However, for complete access to all routes, trains, ticket types & quotas including Waitlisted & RAC , you must face the challenge of registering with the official Indian Railways booking website irctc.co.in, which is option 2.  I provide detailed instructions below.  Be warned, the process may drive you nuts.  Some people give up, others manage it in the end, but once registered you can book anything.

Option 1, buy at 12go.asia

I recommend ticketing agency 12go.asia as the quickest & easiest way to buy tickets for the principal trains and routes used by tourists, it makes booking trains as easy as booking flights.

You can check prices & availability online, pay with an international credit card and get the same e-ticket you'd get if you booked directly with irctc.co.in, but without the frustration of having to create an account and register with irctc.co.in.

Booking opens 120 days ahead , although some short-distance inter-city trains have a shorter booking horizon.  You can't buy tickets before reservations open.  Indian trains get fully booked weeks ahead, so book as far ahead as you can to be sure of a place.

How it works

12go.asia 's system shows fares & availability in real time, taken from IRCTC's system.  You select your train & class and click to buy.  Tickets are then manually secured by 12go staff using IRCTC's business-to-business booking system.

You can choose to see prices & pay in Indian Rupees, USD, GBP, Euros & several other currencies.

Limitations

12go.asia sells tickets for all the major routes of interest to visitors, but not between every possible station.  For that you need irctc.co.in.

Option 2, buy at www.irctc.co.in

You can buy train tickets direct from Indian Railways at the IRCTC website www.irctc.co.in .

Registering to use www.irctc.co.in is a time-consuming and frustrating process, but once registered you'll have access to all routes, trains, classes & ticket types.

Irctc.co.in has accepted overseas (non-Indian) credit cards since 2016, although it occasionally goes through periods when international cards don't seem to be accepted, just to keep everyone on their toes.  You must select the payment option which mentions International cards powered by PayU at the payment stage.

How to register for an IRCTC account

Go to www.irctc.co.in and click REGISTER top right.

Now enter the details to create an account.

Choose a username , some trial and error may be needed.

Enter your mobile phone number - your home country's international dialling code goes in the box marked ISD (this box says '91' until you have changed India to your own country in the box above).  The ISD for the UK is '44'.  Then enter your mobile phone number without any leading '0'.

Pin code means postcode .  Use 123456 as it won't accept UK-style postcodes.  Under Post Office , just enter your city & phone number again.

Payment problems paying the SMS verification fee

Just after I test-registered they imposed a fee for sending the OTP to a non-Indian mobile.  A few people have had credit card acceptance problems in paying this fee, but others find paying the fee works fine.  Again, I don't know why, but it could be problems with your own bank detecting and blocking a 'suspicious'  foreign transaction.  Give them a call!

How to buy tickets at www.irctc.co.in

When you click to see availability on a particular train, you will see places shown as AVL , RAC or WL , see the explanation of Reservation Against Cancellation & Waitlisting here .

AVL = Available , this means there are tickets available for confirmed seats or berths on that train. 

RAC = Reservation Against Cancellation , this means that the train is theoretically full, but Reservation Against Cancellation tickets are available for that train which allow you to board and be allocated a berth by the conductor.  So if you only see RAC tickets available, my advice is to go ahead and book, you'll still be able to travel on that train.

Tip:  Download the IRCTC app for your phone.   Download the IRCTC Rail Connect app for iPhone (if it's available in your region, it may not be) or IRCTC Rail Connect app for Android onto your phone.  You'll probably find you can't buy tickets with overseas credit cards using the app, but tickets bought online at the IRCTC website will show up in the app and can be shown to the conductor.  You can check train times, and see the current status of your booking if you are waitlisted or RAC.  Feedback appreciated .  I recommend some other apps that are available outside India in the travel tips section .

Option 3, Cleartrip.com, Makemytrip.com , Ixigo.com

How to buy tickets at the station.

The main stations in big cities and tourist centres such as New Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi have an International Tourist Bureau where foreign travellers can book trains away from the crowds and queues at the normal booking office.  There is also a 24-hour rail booking office at Delhi International Airport.

For a list of stations with an International Tourist Bureau & opening times, see www.indianrail.gov.in , select Information then International Tourist .

New Delhi International Tourist Bureau ( temporarily closed )

U pdate 2024:   The New Delhi International Tourist Bureau remains temporarily closed due to the pandemic and low numbers of tourists.  A notice directs tourists to the international tourist counter at the Rail Reservation Centre 300m down the road, see the section below .

When open, the International Tourist Bureau at New Delhi railway station makes it easy for foreign visitors to buy tickets.  They could often sell you places out of the tourist quota, even when a train is fully-booked for Indian passengers.  Before the pandemic, it was normally open 06:00-23:00 every day, it's now temporarily closed.

How to find it

Enter New Delhi main station entrance on the Paharganj side (shown in the photo below left), veer slightly to the left and go up one flight of stairs to find yourself outside the International Tourist Bureau, as shown in the photo below right.  It's above platform 1.  If it doesn't look like the photo below, it isn't the real International tourist office.

New Delhi international tourist counter

Mumbai csmt, formerly bombay victoria terminus.

A station to rival London's St Pancras, Mumbai CSMT is an attraction in its own right.  Completed in 1887, its full title is Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus or (officially) Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, station code CSMT .  Known as Bombay Victoria Terminus until 1996 and still known as 'VT' by many, see en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chhatrapati_Shivaji_Terminus .

Foreign Tourist Counter:   At Mumbai CSMT you can easily buy tickets from the foreign tourist quota at the Foreign Tourist counter, counter 4 downstairs in the Reservation Centre at CSMT.  It moved from counter 20 upstairs in 2018, please let me know if it changes again.

Tips for train travel in India

Checking your reservation.

The reservation system is very efficient and the days of finding your reserved berth already occupied by several passengers are long gone.  Your train, coach & berth number will be printed on your ticket - unless you're travelling in AC1 in which case the reservation list with your allocated berth numbers is only compiled a 2-4 hours before departure.

Reservation lists for each class in each long-distance train are posted on the notice board at each station about two hours before departure, showing the name, age and sex of each passenger reserved in each berth in each coach.  The age and sex help the ticket inspector identify that the right passenger is in the right berth.  A reservation list for each coach used to be pasted next to the entrance door on the train itself, but this is no longer done.

If you need to check your reservation, you can do so on your phone or laptop by entering your PNR (= booking reference) a PNR status-checking website such as www.railyatri.in/pnr-status or etrain.info/in , or using one of the Indian railways apps.

Download an app

I recommend downloading an app for your phone.  There are a bewildering number to choose from, some official, some 3rd party.  The official IRCTC apps seem unavailable outside India, so try these:

Indian Rail IRCTC for iPhone or Ixigo for iPhone .

Indian Rail IRCTC for Android or Ixigo for Android .

With these you can:

Check train schedules between any two stations.

Check a train's schedule at each of its calling points.  It also shows the train formation and carriage numbering to help you find your seat or berth.

Check your PNR status to see whether a Waitlisted ticket has become RAC or Confirmed.

Check real-time train running to see if your train is on time.

Check the platform for your train using the Live Station Info button, so you won't have to rely on the station departure displays to find your train.

Set a destination alarm to warn you a certain number of kilometres before your destination.

Luggage on Indian trains

Luggage is not a problem on Indian trains, you take your bags with you onto the train and place them on the overhead racks or underneath the lower berths.

The free luggage allowance is generous:  You can take to 70 Kg in AC1, 50 Kg in AC2, 40 Kg in AC3, AC Chair class or Sleeper class, 35 Kg in 2nd class seats.  Most western travellers are unlikely to exceed that, but if you really need to, you can pay an excess luggage fee and take up to 150 Kg in AC1 or 100 Kg in AC2.  However, the maximum is 40 Kg in AC3 or AC Chair class.

Theft of luggage is rare, but for peace of mind take along a bicycle lock or medium-sized padlock to secure your bags.  In the sleeping-cars, there are wire hoops hanging down underneath the seats to which you can padlock your luggage while you sleep.

Carriage numbers

The carriage numbers shown on tickets, on reservation lists and on the side of each coach consist of a letter and a number, for example H1, A1, A2, B1, B2, S1, S2, S3 and so on.  The letter shows the class of accommodation in that car.

A = air-con 2-tier (2A).

B = air-con 3-tier (3A).

AB = composite coach, half air-con 2-tier, half air-con 3-tier.

C = air-con chair car (CC).

D = non-air-con 2nd class reserved (@S).

E = executive chair class (EC).

G & J are used for AC 3-tier & Air-conditioned Chair class on Garib Rath trains.

H = air-conditioned 1st class (1A).

HA = composite coach, half AC1, half AC2.

S = sleeper class (SL).

There's typically just one air-con 1st class sleeper on a given train, so that's usually numbered H1.  If there were two air-con 2-tier cars on a train, those cars would be numbers A1 & A2.  So if you booked an AC2 ticket you'd expect to be given a car number 'A1' or 'A2', if you booked AC1 you'd expect to be in car H1 or HA1.

Food and drink on Indian trains

There are no restaurant or buffet cars on Indian Railways, but on long distance trains an attendant will appear in your coach and ask you if you would like to order food.  He will note down your order (usually a choice of 'veg' or 'non-veg') on a bit of paper.  An hour or so later he will reappear with some rice and curry in small foil containers from the kitchen car.  It is not expensive - you can reckon on £2-£3 per meal.  Attendants also regularly pass down each car selling soft drinks, snacks, or excellent hot sweet Indian tea (garam chai) for a few rupees.  On the premier Rajdhani Express trains (linking Delhi with Mumbai, Kolkata, etc.) and the premier daytime Shatabdi Express trains (linking Delhi with Jaipur and Agra, etc.), food is included in the fare, served at your seat.

Pre-order your food from a restaurant of your choice.   Alternatively, there are now several Indian websites that allow you to pre-book food to be delivered to your seat on the train from various vendors along the way.  If you have a confirmed train booking you can go to railrestro.com , enter your PNR, select a vendor you like the sound of who is located at a station where your train calls at a suitable time, and select specific items from their menu to be delivered to you on board the train at that station - reports so far have been very positive, but feedback is always appreciated !

Cleanliness, toilets & crowding

The efficient reservation system means that you can safely forget any pictures you've seen of overcrowded Indian trains with people on the roof or hanging on the side.  These these photos show suburban or local trains, or unreserved 2nd class on long-distance ones.  On fast long-distance trains in AC1, AC2, AC3, or AC Chair Class, all passengers have an assigned seat or sleeping berth so there's no overcrowding.  Don't expect pristine western standards anywhere in India, but you'll find AC1, AC2, AC3 and AC Chair class clean by Indian standards, with both western-style and squat toilets usually in a reasonably sanitary condition, see the train interior photos below.  On the other hand, Sleeper Class gets much grubbier than the AC classes and unreserved passengers can sometimes enter the coaches making it crowded.  2nd class unreserved can be incredibly crowded.  Toilets in sleeper class or basic non-AC 2nd class seats can leave a lot to be desired.

Safety & security

Indian trains are safe to travel on, even for families or women travelling alone, and you are unlikely to have any problems.  As in any busy place anywhere, pickpockets operate at the major stations (for example Delhi and New Delhi), so take care.  Oh, and be prepared:  If anyone tells you that your train is cancelled, that the ticket office has closed or has moved to a travel agency across the road, or your pre-booked hotel has burnt down or been abducted by aliens, please politely ignore them, even if they look 'official', to avoid ending up in a travel agency paying for a car and driver at vast expense, or booking their 'alternative' hotel which of course will luckily have a room available.  These are all well-known scams (yawn...) to get travel agency business, usually obvious to any regular India hand, but first-timers have been known to fall for them.

Do Indian trains run on time?

Indian Railways are generally remarkably efficient, but Indian trains do run late, sometimes hours rather than minutes.  To get a feel for it, why not go to either www.trainenquiry.com or www.erail.in and see how late yesterday's Delhi-Jaisalmer Express arrived, or last Thursday's Mumbai-Delhi Rajdhani Express?  At www.erail.in , select the origin and destination that interests you, and bring up the train list.  Now find the train that you want and click on it.  Now select a date and click the 'train running status' button.  It will show you a table of scheduled times and actual times at each station.  Data is only held for the last few days, not weeks or months ago.  At www.trainenquiry.com , you simply enter the train number or name, then select from a list of possible trains.

Alternatively, these examples from my own travels may give you a feel for the likely delay:  Delhi-Varanasi overnight express spot on time, Bombay-Howrah Mail 1½ hours late, Chennai-Mumbai Chennai Express 40 minutes late, Kolkata-Delhi Rajdhani Express spot on time (Rajdhani Expresses get priority and are pretty punctual), Delhi-Agra Shatabdi Express spot on time (Shatabdi Expresses also get priority and are pretty punctual), Jaisalmer-Delhi Express 2 hours late starting and 3 hours late arriving, Delhi-Kalka-Simla Himalayan Queen spot on time, Varanasi-Agra-Jaipur Marudhar Express 50 minutes late, Chennai-Delhi Grand Trunk Express 1½ hours late.

Recharging mobiles & cameras

There are shaver sockets in most AC1/2/3 sleeper cars and many Indian trains now have power outlets for mobiles and laptops.  However, I never travel without an Anker powerbank which can recharge your phone several times over if you're on the move and can't get to a power outlet.

Other Indian train tips

Bring your own toilet paper.  You'll normally find one western toilet and one squat toilet at one or both ends of the car.  In AC1, AC2, AC Chair Class and even AC3 the toilets are normally reasonably clean by Indian standards, and in full working order.  Sleeper Class and 2nd class toilets may be a different matter!

Make sure you research when to visit India carefully - in summer it can be unbearably hot, and you also want to avoid the monsoon rains.  And in January & February in Northern India that there can be major disruption to road, rail & air due to thick fog, so bear that in mind.

Finally, forewarned is forearmed

In India, if someone asks which hotel you're going to, then announces that this hotel has been flooded, burnt down, or abducted by aliens, they are of course trying to get commission from sending you to another hotel - that's often painfully obvious and it's almost funny!  Smile, ignore them, and persist in walking to your own hotel, which will of course be open as usual.  But similarly, especially at big stations such as New Delhi, if an official-looking person (they may even show you a badge) says your train has been cancelled, or says you can't board without a boarding pass (with an e-ticket you can get on the train, there's no such thing as a boarding pass), smile, ignore them, walk past, and persist until you see the actual departure indicators and get your train.  If necessary, go and see the station master!  Although this has never happened to me, there are occasional reports of travellers being conned into buying new tickets from a nearby travel agency, being sent to a nearby travel agency when they wanted the genuine New Delhi foreigners booking office, or being conned into hiring a private car and driver for hundreds of dollars when they already had trains booked, which of course weren't really cancelled.  So smile, ignore, persist, go and see the departure boards with your own eyes, find and get on your train, and have a giggle about it later!  If you encounter any of this, feedback (and a good laugh) is always appreciated!

The 11 classes on Indian trains

There are 11 classes of accommodation on Indian trains or at least, 11 different class codes in the system.  You can argue that 3E is a variation of 3A, EA a variation of EC and that 2S & GN are the same (both are 2nd class seats, one reserved, the other unreserved).  But that's still 8 classes!

Only a small selection of classes is available on any given train, a typical long-distance train might have one AC1 car, one or two AC2 cars, perhaps an AC3 car, then a long line of 6, 7 or 8 Sleeper class cars and maybe one GN or 2S car at the end.  But it varies, of course.

Here are the classes, in roughly descending order of cost, together with the usual 2 & 3-letter abbreviations.  A request:  If you get any clear interior photos of AC2, AC3 or Sleeper class which would better illustrate these classes, please get in touch !

Air-conditioned first class (AC1 or 1A)

Air-conditioned 2-tier (ac2 or 2a).

AC2 is relatively clean & comfortable, with room to spread out.  It's the class typically used by middle class Indian families and a good choice for most western visitors.   AC2 is found on almost all decent long-distance trains including the premier Rajdhani & Duronto expresses.

AC2 offers padded leatherette seats by day which convert to flat padded bunks at night.  AC2 coaches are open-plan with berths arranged in bays of four on one side of the aisle (two upper, two lower, transverse across the car width), and in bays of two on the other side of the aisle, arranged longitudinally along the coach side above and below the windows.  If you're tall, you should book a transverse berth.

Each bay is curtained off for privacy, and an attendant distributes pillows, clean sheets and blankets in the evening.  Update:  Curtains were removed  as a Covid-19 precaution and may still be absent.

Click for car plans & berth numbering in AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair, Sleeper Class .

Air-conditioned 3-tier (AC3 or 3A)

AC3 has a similar layout to AC2, but instead of upper & lower berths it has 3 tiers of bunks - upper, middle and lower - arranged in bays of six on one side of the aisle, and longitudinal bays of two - upper and lower - along the wall on the other side of the aisle.  As in AC2, an attendant distributes pillows, sheets and blankets in the evening.  Berths convert to seats for daytime use.

With 3 people sitting on each bench seat during the day rather than just 2, it feels a lot more crowded than AC 2-tier, and at night there is less height-space between each bunk - the top bunks are significantly higher up near the ceiling.  AC3 may lack the privacy curtains and individual berth lights usually found in AC2.  As in AC2, you should avoid the longitudinal berths if you are tall.  Still, if you find AC2 fully-booked, most western travellers will find AC3 an acceptable fall-back.  See car plans & berth numbering in AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair, Sleeper Class .  Photos courtesy of Rachel Poschi.

Air-conditioned 3-tier economy (3E)

Executive anubhuti chair car (ea), ac executive chair class (ec).

AC Executive Chair Class is only found on the high-quality Shatabdi Express , Vande Bharat Express & Tejas Express trains.  Seats are arranged 2+2 across the car width, basic pre-packaged food & drink is included in the fare, served at your seat.  It's also known as First AC Chair class.  Seat numbering plan for AC Chair cars .

AC Chair class (CC)

AC Chair class is a good choice for daytime journeys.  Comfortable & air-conditioned, they have seats arranged 2+3 across the car width.  AC Chair Class is found on the Shatabdi Expresses, Vande Bharat Express, the several Tejas Express trains and a number of other inter-city daytime trains, for example Delhi-Jaipur, Delhi-Agra, Delhi-Kalka for Simla.   Seat numbering plan, AC Chair cars .

Sleeper Class (SL)

This is the way the bulk of the Indian population travels on long-distance trains, but it's also used by many more adventurous backpackers who are prepared to take the rough with the smooth.  The majority of cars on a typical long-distance mail or express train will be sleeper class.

Sleeper class consists of open-plan berths, arranged in bays of 6 bunks (upper, middle and lower) on one side of the aisle, and bays of 2 bunks (upper & lower) along the coach wall on the other side of the aisle.  Bunks fold away to form seating for daytime use.  It's the same basic layout as AC3, but without the air-con and without any privacy curtains.  Bedding is not provided, so bring a sleeping-bag.

Sleeper class is found on almost all long-distance trains except for the premier Rajdhani & Duronto services.  Sleeper class can be crowded (although in theory all berths must be reserved, so it can't get overcrowded), and it's fairly grubby and basic.  On the other hand, you get a better view of the countryside then in AC coaches, where the windows are sealed, tinted and sometimes dirty.  In summer, there are fans on the ceiling and a breeze from the windows.  In winter, wrap up warm at night and take a sleeping bag and fleece, as it can get cold.    Berth numbering system, AC1, AC2, AC3, AC Chair, Sleeper Class cars .

1st class (FC)

Traditional non-air-con 1st class has now almost disappeared, as Indian Railways have progressively phased it out in favour of AC 2-tier.  But for the record, ordinary first class consists of non-air-conditioned sleeper coaches with lockable 4-berth and 2-berth compartments, a similar layout to AC1 but without the AC.  Bedding is not provided, and it's much grubbier than AC1, AC2 or AC3 as it's not sealed against the dirt .

2nd class seats (2S = reserved or GN = unreserved)

Open plan cars with wooden or padded plastic seats, sometimes reserved and shown online as 2S, sometimes unreserved and shown online as either GN or II.  Not recommended for long distance overnight journeys (you'll see the huge scrum of Indians all trying to bag a seat in unreserved 2nd class), but quite acceptable for daytime journeys of up to a few hours if you're on a budget.

IndRail pass es:  Discontinued in 2017

Where to go in india.

First-time visitors often wonder where to start in such a vast country and they're sometimes told to tour only a small area, for example stick to Rajasthan or perhaps the beaches of Goa.  But I suggest a bolder approach.  Use the remarkable Indian train network to see a varied cross-section of India's highlights, picking one example from each type of place:  A big city, a colonial hill station, a princely city or two in Rajasthan, then Agra of course for the Taj Mahal, and also Varanasi, the classic Hindu holy city on the Ganges.  This way, you'll see some incredible highlights and complete contrasts, with overnight trains minimising both daytime travelling time and hotel bills.

A suggested itinerary

Here's what I personally consider the best itinerary around Northern India, taking in an amazing variety of classic Indian cities in as little as 2 weeks.  Highlight after highlight in a 2-week itinerary.  If you have longer to spare, add an extra day or two here and there and/or add one more Rajasthani city, Udaipur.

Delhi 1-3 days.  Contrast the bustling old city with Lutyens' gracious New Delhi.

Take the Swatantrta S Express leaving New Delhi at 21:15 arriving Varanasi Junction at 08:05 next morning. AC1, AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.

Varanasi 2-3 days.  Formerly called Benares, Varanasi is the must-see Hindu holy city on the Ganges.  Make sure you stay in a local Indian riverside hotel such as the Hotel Alka , with its terrace overlooking the Ganges.  Western chain hotels are usually located in the new town, well away from all the amazing riverside action.  The Hotel Alka is one of the better hotels in this top riverside location, and eating a Thai on the terrace as the Diwali fireworks went off overhead and Lilly pads with candles drifted down the Ganges was an unforgettable experience.

Take the Marudhar Express from Varanasi Junction around 18:25 arriving Agra Fort at 06:40 next morning. AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.  No AC1.

Agra 2 days, remembering to visit the fantastic deserted royal city of Fatephur Sikhri 30km away by bus or car.  Agra may be the most touristy place in India, but the Taj is utterly beautiful and well worth the tourist tout hassle.  Agra fort and the ‘baby Taj’ are also worth a visit.

Take the Marudhar Express from Agra Fort around 06:45 arriving Jaipur at 11:50 the same day. AC2, AC3, Sleeper class (No AC1).

Jaipur 2-3 days.  The 'Pink City' is one of the most wonderful princely cities in Rajasthan, and indeed in India.

Take the daily Raniket Express leaving Jaipur at 10:10 arriving Jaisalmer at 22:30 the same day, with AC1, AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.

Or the Shalimar Express on Tue, Wed, Fri & Sun leaving Jaipur 17:45 arriving Jaisalmer 05:30 next morning, with AC1, AC2, AC3 & sleeper class.

Jaisalmer 2-3 days.  This is Rajasthan’s ultimate fairytale city and one of the most beautiful cities in the whole of India, in the desert close to the Pakistan border.  For many years it had no airport so only those who made the effort got to experience it, although sadly it may now have flights using the military airbase nearby.

Take the Shalimar Express leaving Jaisalmer at 23:25 on Mon, Wed, Thus, Sat and arriving at Old Delhi at 16:50 next day. AC1, AC2, AC3, sleeper class.  Spend the night in Delhi.

Take the Kalka Shatabdi leaving New Delhi at 07:40 arriving Kalka at 11:40. AC Executive chair class and AC Chair class, meal included served at your seat. Change onto the waiting narrow-gauge Simla toy train leaving Kalka at 12:10 arriving Simla at 17:20 with (non-AC) 1st class, AC Chair class, 2nd class. The journey to Simla by narrow gauge Toy Train is an absolute delight.

Simla 2-3 days.  Cool relaxation and colonial mock-Tudor charm in this lovely Himalayan hill station from the days of the Raj.  The ideal final destination for your trip!  The upmarket colonial-style Clarkes Hotel is wonderful.

Take the toy train leaving Simla at 18:05 arriving Kalka at 22:40. Change onto the mainline Netaji Express leaving Kalka at 23:55 and arriving Old Delhi at 06:00. AC1, AC2, AC3, Sleeper class.

How to book this itinerary

Option 1 is to arrange it all yourself .  First sketch out your itinerary, perhaps using the technique explained here .  Then book each train journey at 12go.asia (hassle-free, although naturally they charge a reasonable agency mark-up) or get yourself registered with IRCTC and book as explained here .  Then book each of your hotels separately using Booking.com .  This is the budget option, if you don't mind the legwork and managing it yourself.

Option 2 is to have it all booked for you, hassle-free .  I've arranged for train specialists Railbookers to offer this exact itinerary as a package, with trains, hotels, transfers (and if you like, your flight to India) all sorted for you.  This costs more than sorting it all out yourself, but it saves a lot of effort (and possible frustration) and as it's then a package, if anything affects one part of the tour Railbookers will sort things out for you.  Their suggested tour can be customised to your own requirements, to spend more or less time in each place.  Railbookers is an ABTA member and holidays including flights are ATOL protected.

  UK call 0207 864 4600, www.railbookers.co.uk . 

  us call free 1-888-829-4775, see website .,   canada call free 1-855-882-2910, see website .,   australia call toll-free 1300 971 526, see website . ,   new zealand call toll-free 0800 000 554 or see website ., alternative versions.

Alternatively, just pick on big city, one hill station, a couple of cities in Rajasthan, and a couple of places from the 'other' list below and create your own itinerary.  How about:  Kolkata - (overnight sleeper train to New Jalpaiguri then the famous Darjeeling Toy Train) - Darjeeling - Varanasi - (overnight sleeper train) - Agra - (daytime train) - Jaipur - (overnight sleeper train) - Kolkata?

The big cities

The royal cities of rajasthan, old colonial hill stations, other places to see, two personal favourites:  a ride to darjeeling.

A personal favourite is the ride to Darjeeling on the narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalaya Railway (DHR), and a night or two at the wonderful Windamere Hotel .  The DHR is now a UN World Heritage Site.

Travel from Kolkata's Sealdah station to New Jalpaiguri (NJP) on the broad gauge Darjeeling Mail, leaving Sealdah at 22:05 and arriving NJP at 08:15 next morning.  The Darjeeling Mail has AC1, AC2, AC3, sleeper class and 2nd class accommodation.  Then take the connecting DHR 'toy train' up to Darjeeling, leaving NJP at 10:00 daily, arriving Darjeeling at 17:30.  It's a long ride on a narrow gauge train, sometimes next to the hill road, sometimes through jungle, and sometimes through the streets.

You can check the current status of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway at www.dhrs.org/page4.html - it has it's ups and downs, if you'll pardon the expression.

Once in Darjeeling, the place to stay is the Windamere Hotel .  Originally a boarding house for bachelor tea planters, it became a hotel in 1939.  Meals are served by white-gloved, turbanned waiters and eaten by candlelight to the sound of Cole Porter tunes on the piano.  Even if you can't afford it, make sure you come along for afternoon tea - probably the best cup of tea you will ever drink.

...and a ride to Simla.

A little bit more robust than the line to Darjeeling, the similar toy train up to Simla in the Himalayan foothills is the way to reach Simla, once India's summer capital.  Take a fast broad-gauge train from New Delhi to Kalka and change there onto the Toy Train up into the hills.  The train ride to Simla is one of Simla's highlights on its own.  If you get the chance, use the Shivalik Deluxe Express on the way back down from Simla (it connects with the overnight express to New Delhi going forward next day to Kolkata).  The Shivalik Deluxe has plush fabric-covered first class armchairs, and a meal is served at your seat, included in the price.  Although it gets dark as you descend, at stations without electricity the signalmen hand the single-line token to the driver whilst holding burning torches, the shimmering flames lighting up the side of the train.  It's wonderfully atmospheric.

Tours of India by train

The cheapest option is to arrange everything yourself, independently, but this takes time and effort.  If you want a customisable itinerary with all your train tickets, up-market hotels and transfers arranged for you, you can do this through train specialists Railbookers.  Their website has various example itineraries including a one-week Golden Triangle one visiting Delhi, Agra and Jaipur, but have a look at the suggested itinerary above covering Delhi, Agra, Varanasi, Jaipur, Jaisalmer & Simla as I think it's the best 2-week itinerary around northern India that you'll find, and I've arranged for Railbookers to offer it.  Railbookers takes good care of their clients and gets very good reviews.

Escorted tours in India by train

If you'd prefer to travel with a group of fellow travellers escorted by a professional tour guide, check are Great Rail Journeys ( www.greatrail.com , in the UK call 01904 527 120) and Rail Discoveries , www.raildiscoveries.com , 01904 730 727.  Both offer popular escorted tours covering India's 'Golden Triangle' of Delhi, Agra for the Taj Mahal and Jaipur in Rajasthan.  At the time of writing, Great rail Journeys also do an escorted tour covering Delhi, Amritsar for the Golden Temple, Agra for the Taj Mahal, Lucknow, Varanasi on the Ganges and Kathmandu in Nepal, with departures on various dates through the year.

Tourist cruise trains

There are now several luxury cruise trains catering for tourists and offering sightseeing itineraries around Indian cities.  All of these trains are in effect 5 star international hotels on wheels, allowing you to see India in great comfort.

The Palace on Wheels

See www.palacesonwheels.com and see the Palace on Wheels video .  This is India's first and most celebrated cruise train, voted as the world's 4th best luxury train by Condé Nast Traveller magazine.  All suites feature private shower & spotlessly clean toilet, TV & CD player, and the train's two elegant restaurant cars offer both Indian and international cuisine.

Prices range from $2,750 for a 7-night 8-day tour around key cities in Rajasthan such as Jaisalmer, Jaipur, Udaipur & Jodhpur with all meals, off-train tours and on-board accommodation included. 

You can book the Palace on Wheels through recommended train holiday specialist Railbookers who can also arrange flights, hotels and other Indian trains for you.

If you'd prefer to use the Palace on Wheels on an escorted tour with friendly group of travellers and a professional tour guide are available from Great Rail Journeys ( www.greatrail.com , in the UK call 01904 527 120).

Other luxury cruise trains

The Palace on Wheels is no longer the only cruise train in India, and it's not even the best.  Others have sprung up, though prices are sky-high.  Be warned that most of these companies quote a rate per night, not for the whole tour!

Maharaja's Express , see www.the-maharajas.com - See the Maharaja's Express video .  Runs various 3 or 7 night tours from Delhi back to Delhi or between Delhi & Mumbai, via places such as Agra, Jaipur, Varanasi, Lucknow, Khajuraho.  From $3,580 per person.  This train is run by Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC), originally as a joint venture with Cox & KIngs.  Gets very positive feedback, 'ten out of ten' from one correspondent.  You can now book the Maharaja's Express through train holiday specialist www.railbookers.co.uk .

Royal Rajasthan on Wheels , www.royalsrajasthanonwheels.com - See the Royal Rajasthan on Wheels video .  Offers 8-day (7-night) itineraries with weekly departures from Delhi back to Delhi, stopping at Jodhpur, Udaipur, Ranthambore National Park, Jaipur, Khajuraho & Varanasi.  From around $4,130 per person for two people sharing, $5,775 single occupancy for the least expensive suites.  Has also had great feedback, and can also be booked through www.railbookers.co.uk .

Golden Chariot , www.goldenchariot.org - see the Golden Chariot video .  A luxury train offering weekly departures from Bangalore for a week-long tour to Goa & southern India.

Deccan Odyssey , www.deccan-odyssey-india.com - see the Deccan Odyssey video .  A luxury train offering weekly departures from Mumbai for a week-long tour to Goa, Pune, and the caves at Ajanta & Ellora.

Indian Maharaja , www.theindianmaharaja.co.in .  Offers 8-day 7-night 'land cruises' between Delhi & Mumbai in either direction on various dates between October & April, with stopovers & tours at Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur, Ellora & Ajanta Caves, starting at around $4,095 per person for two people sharing or from $5,229 single occupancy.

These trains can also be arranged through Railbookers.  On their website, select 'Private trains'.

Inclusive luxury train escorted tours

If you'd like a deluxe train-based holiday to India, but would like to do this as part of an organised tour, Great Rail Journeys ( www.greatrail.com ) is a well-known company offering inclusive upmarket escorted tours to India, including the Palace on Wheels or a number of other special Indian 'cruise trains', five star hotels plus flights to/from the UK.  There are a number of different tours available, departing on a range of dates throughout the year.  Check the holiday details online, then call 01904 527120 to book or use their online booking form .  Seat61 gets some commission to help support the site if you book your holiday through this link and phone number.

International trains, buses & ferries

There are international trains to Pakistan & Bangladesh, and buses to Nepal.  Here's a quick summary:

Delhi - Amritsar - Lahore, Pakistan

Take a train from Delhi to Amritsar, there are lots to choose from.  See www.indianrail.gov.in for times & fares. 

Take a bus or taxi the 26km from Amritsar to the India/Pakistan frontier at Atari.  Walk through the border posts to Wagah on the Pakistani side.  You may want to hang around Wagah to see the spectacular ceremony at sunset when the border closes.  Indian and Pakistani guards try to outdo each other with their performances, watched by Indians and Pakistani crowds!

Take another bus or taxi the remaining 20km to Lahore.  Allow plenty of time for this deceptively short journey. 

There used to be a cross-border train, but tension in Kashmir means all India-Pakistan trains are suspended at the moment.

Delhi - Jodhpur - Karachi, Pakistan

A weekly international train called the Thar Express started in February 2006 from Jodhpur to Karachi via the border at Munabao.  But it's currently suspended.

Eastbound:   The Thar Express leaves Karachi every Friday at 23:00, arriving at 'Zero Point' on the Pakistan/India frontier at around 08:00 next morning.  After customs checks, the train goes forward to Munabao on the Indian side, arriving around 11:00.The Indian train departs Munabao at 19:00 after customs formalities, arriving Jodhpur (Bhagat Ki Kothi station) at 23:50 Saturday.

Westbound:   The Thar Express leaves Jodhpur (Bhagat Ki Kothi station, about 4km from the main station) every Saturday morning at 01:00 arriving Munabao at 07:00, leaving Munabao at around 14:30 on Saturdays, reaching Karachi at 02:15 on Sunday morning. 

The sleeper fare from Jodhpur to Munabao/zero point is about Rs170, and from Munabao/zero point to Karachi is about Rs230.  No more information is yet available, but feedback would be appreciated!  The train has one sleeping-car and several economy cars.

Update :  Tension in Kashmir means all India-Pakistan trains are suspended at the moment.

Delhi to Kathmandu, Nepal

It's quite easy, cheap, and an adventure to do this journey overland.  You take an overnight train from New Delhi to Gorakpur, then a bus.  For details, see the Nepal page .

Kolkata to Dhaka, Bangladesh

A new direct train from Kolkata (Calcutta) to Dhaka started in April 2008, see the Bangladesh page .

India to Sri Lanka by ferry

After many years of being cut off from each other (with at least one short-lived attempt to start a ferry service in 2011), a new ferry service started in late 2023, linking Nagapattinam (mainland India) with Kankesanthurai (on Sri Lanka, near Jaffna).

The fast ferry Cheriyapani sails from Nagapattinam (India)  at 07:00 arriving Kankesanthurai (Sri Lanka) at 11:00.

She sails from Kankesanthurai (Sri Lanka) at 13:30 arriving Kankesanthurai (India) at 17:00.

Crossing time 3 hours for the 60 nautical miles.  Service will be suspended during the monsoon season in November-December.

Fare around 8,000 Indian rupees, luggage allowance 40 Kg.

Online booking will be available starting in January 2024, website not yet known.  Until then, call +91 978 987 9971 at least 24 hours in advance. You will be required to send a copy of your passport and visa details via WhatsApp to confirm the booking.

Be careful with e-visas when using this ferry, they will not initially be accepted at these entry points, but may be in future.

India to Burma (Myanmar)

The India/Burma border is closed to foreigners.  It is not possible to travel to Burma overland from India.  For train and river steamer service within Burma, see the Burma page .

India to China

The direct route from India into China is difficult and mountainous, there are no trains, you need some serious permits to be in that part of India, and most if not all border crossings are closed to foreigners.  If you wish to travel this way, do your research before attempting it! 

For most practical purposes, you are better off going from India to Kathmandu in Nepal ( see the Nepal page ), then taking an organised tour from Kathmandu to Lhasa in Tibet ( see the Nepal page ), then a train to Beijing.  For train service within China, including Lhasa to Beijing, see the China page .

Europe to India overland

Europe to india via istanbul, iran, pakistan.

It's possible to travel from Europe to India overland by train and bus via Turkey, Iran & Pakistan, along what in the 1960s & 70s was the hippy train.  However, these days there are serious security problems affecting this route in Turkey, SE Iran & Pakistan.  If you are foolhardy enough to brave these, it takes a minimum of 2-3 weeks and you should consider it as an adventure or expedition rather than a routine way to travel there. 

Administratively, the main issue is getting an tourist visa for Iran - see the London to Iran page for agencies to contact to get one.  Finally, there are major security issues in southeast Iran to be aware of - see the official travel advice for Iran and Pakistan at the British Foreign Office website, www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice .  If you are still interested, see the Europe to India overland page .  I'd suggest planning the trip out carefully before you start to book anything - this may help:  How to plan an itinerary & budget .

Europe to India via Moscow, the Trans-Siberian Railway, Beijing & Lhasa

A safer though somewhat round-about way is London to Moscow by Eurostar and onward trains to Moscow (2 nights, £300, daily departures), Moscow to Beijing via the Trans-Siberian Railway (6 or 7 nights, £500, two per week), Beijing to Lhasa by train (2 nights, £100, daily), then an organised tour by bus from Lhasa to Nepal (7 nights, maybe $400), then bus and train to Delhi .  Again, you may find this helpful:  How to plan an itinerary & budget .  Trains to Russia are suspended due to Covid-19 and now sanctions .

Hotels in India

Personal hotel recommendations, tripadvisor hotel reviews.

www.tripadvisor.com is a good place to find independent travellers' reviews of the main hotels.  It also has the low-down on all the sights & attractions too.

Flights to India

Overland travel by train around India is an essential part of the experience, so once there, don't cheat and fly, stay on the ground!  But if you need a long-haul flight to reach India in the first place.

1)  Check flight prices at Opodo, www.opodo.com

2)  use skyscanner to compare flight prices & routes worldwide across 600 airlines.

3)  Lounge passes

Make the airport experience a little more bearable with a VIP lounge pass, it's not as expensive as you think!  See www.loungepass.com

For independent travel, the best guidebook to take is either the Lonely Planet or Rough Guide .  I gave Sarah the Lonely Planet and Karen the Rough Guide and we road-tested both of them head-to-head across India.  The result was a tie, with similarly excellent levels of both practical travel information and historical and cultural background.  I personally prefer the Lonely Planet, but Karen preferred the Rough Guide.  Just make sure you take one of these two guides with you..!  If you buy anything at Amazon through these links, Seat61.com gets a small commission to help support the site.

Buy Lonely Planet India at Amazon.co.uk    Buy Rough Guide India at Amazon.co.uk

Alternatively, you can download just the chapters you need in .PDF format from the Lonely Planet Website , from around £2.99 or US$4.95 a chapter.

Also for your reading list

Travel insurance & other tips, always take out travel insurance.

Never travel overseas without travel insurance from a reliable insurer, with at least £1m or preferably £5m medical cover.  It should also cover cancellation and loss of cash and belongings, up to a sensible limit.  An annual multi-trip policy is usually cheaper than several single-trip policies even for just 2 or 3 trips a year, I have an annual policy with Staysure.co.uk myself.  Here are some suggested insurers.  Seat61 gets a small commission if you buy through these links.

Get an eSIM with mobile data package

Don't rely on WiFi, download an eSIM with a mobile data package for the country you're visiting and stay connected.  Most newer mobile phones can download a virtual SIM card so you don't need to buy a physical SIM, including iPhone 11 & later, see device compatibility list .  Maya.net is a reliable eSIM data retailer with a 4.5 out of 5 Trustpilot rating and a range of packages including unlimited data .

Get a Curve card for foreign travel

Most banks give you a poor exchange rate, then add a foreign transaction fee on top.  A Curve MasterCard means no foreign transaction fees and gives you the mid-market exchange rate, at least up to a certain limit, £500 per month at time of writing.  The money you spend on your Curve card goes straight onto one of your existing debit or credit cards.

How it works:   1. Download the Curve app for iPhone or Android .  2. Enter your details & they'll send you a Curve MasterCard - they send to the UK and most European addresses.  3. Link your existing credit & debit cards to the app, you can link up to two cards with the free version of Curve, I link my normal debit card and my normal credit card.  4. Now use the Curve MasterCard to buy things online or in person or take cash from ATMs, exactly like a normal MasterCard. Curve does the currency conversion and puts the balance in your own currency onto whichever debit or credit card is currently selected in the Curve app.  You can even change your mind about which card it goes onto, within 14 days of the transaction.

I have a Curve Blue card myself, it means I can buy a coffee on a foreign station on a card without being stung by fees and lousy exchange rates, just by tapping the Curve card on their card reader.  The money goes through Curve to my normal debit card and is taken directly from my account (in fact I have the Curve card set up as payment card on Apple Pay on my iPhone, so can double-click my phone, let it do Face ID then tap the reader with the phone - even easier than digging a card out).  I get a little commission if you sign up to Curve, but I recommend it here because I think it's great.  See details, download the app and get a Curve card , they'll give you £5 cashback through that link.

Get a VPN for safe browsing.  W hy you need a VPN

When you're travelling you often use free WiFi in public places which may not be secure.  A VPN encrypts your connection so it's always secure, even on unsecured WiFi.  It also means you can select the geographic location of the IP address you browse with, to get around geoblocking which a surprising number of websites apply.  See VPNs & why you need one explained .  ExpressVPN is a best buy with a 4.7 out of 5 Trustpilot ranking which I use myself - I've signed up as an ExpressVPN affiliate, and if you go with expressvpn.com using the links on this page, you should see a special deal, 3 months free with an annual subscription.  I get a small commission to help support this site.

Carry an Anker powerbank

Tickets, reservations, vaccination records and Interrail or Eurail passes are often held digitally on your mobile phone, so it's vital to keep it charged.  I always carry an Anker powerbank which can recharge my phone several times over if I can't get to a power outlet.  Buy from Amazon.co.uk or from Buy from Amazon.com .

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What's more, we offer free cancellation of train tickets and accept payment via a range of options, including PhonePe, UPI, and our RY wallet option. With over 50 million users, RailYatri is one of the most popular apps for Indian railway ticket booking, and we make it easy to book your train ticket online or through our mobile app. So why wait? Book your train ticket with RailYatri today and enjoy a stress-free journey

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A) You can easily book your train tickets with RailYatri by visiting our website/app and selecting your boarding and arrival destinations. Choose a train that best suits your needs, fill in your details, proceed to our easy payment gateway, enter your original IRCTC password, and get your PNR. Your train ticket booking confirmation will be sent via Email, SMS, or WhatsApp.

A) You can book up to 6 passengers on a single train booking. For Tatkal train ticket booking, the maximum number is 4 persons per booking. Two children below 5 years are allowed per booking but not ticketed.

A) If you cancel a confirmed train ticket more than 48 hours prior to the scheduled departure of the train, the cancellation charges will be Rs.240/- for AC First Class/Executive Class, Rs.200/- for AC 2 Tier/First Class, Rs. 180 for AC 3 Tier/AC Chair car/ AC 3 Economy, Rs.120/- for Sleeper Class and Rs.60/- for Second Class. These charges are applicable per ticket per passenger and will be deducted before processing the refunds.

A) RAC means Reservation against Cancellation. GNWL means General Waiting List, PQWL means Pooled Quota Waiting List, RLWL means Remote Location Waiting List, and TQWL means Tatkal Quota Waiting List. They are different waitlist statuses you might face after your train ticket booking (except RAC).

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A) Yes, RailYatri provides an instant refund. The refund amount shall be automatically credited to the user's account used at the time of booking.

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How to Book a Train Ticket in India (For Foreigners)

• Post author By Karl Rock
• Post date April 6, 2023
• 3 Comments on How to Book a Train Ticket in India (For Foreigners)

Travelling by train in India can be an exciting and affordable way to explore the country’s diverse landscapes and culture. However, as a foreigner, it can be overwhelming to navigate the Indian Railway system.

In this blog post, we’ll cover how foreigners can book train tickets in India, including how to book under the foreigner quota and the Tatkal system. We’ll also detail ten issues to be aware of when travelling by train in India.

How long in advance do train ticket bookings open?

Indian railway ticket bookings open 120 days before the date of travel. This means you can book your train tickets up to four months before your planned travel date.

Additionally, some long-distance trains have a quota for foreign tourists, which allows them to book tickets up to 365 days in advance, subject to availability.

How to book a ticket under the General Quota

A train ticket in India can be booked online or at the railway station ticket counter.

To book a ticket you must create an account on the Indian Railways booking website and enter your travel details, such as the departure and destination stations, date of travel, and class of travel.

Payment can be made via various online options, including debit/credit card or net banking.

Alternatively, you can visit the railway station ticket counter and purchase your ticket in person. Be sure to bring a valid ID, as it may be required to book your ticket.

It’s advisable to book your tickets well in advance, especially during peak travel times, as trains in India can get very busy, and seats can fill up quickly.

Booking under the Foreign Tourist Quota

Foreign tourists visiting India can use the foreigner quota to book train tickets up to 365 days in advance.

To book under the foreigner quota, visit the Indian Railways website and select the “Foreign Tourist Quota” option.

You must provide your passport details and personal information to create an account.

Search for the train and the travel date you wish to book, select your preferred class of travel and the number of passengers and proceed to payment.

After completing the payment, you will receive a confirmation message with your booking details.

The IRCTC has also released their own PDF explaining the process of booking under the Foreign Tourist Quota .

How to find the foreign tourist quota on the Indian Railways website

The foreign tourist quota is a little hidden on the Indian Railways website; here’s how to find it.

Booking under the Tatkal Quota

The Tatkal system allows passengers to book train tickets on a last-minute basis, usually one day before the travel date.

To book under the Tatkal system, visit the Indian Railways website or the railway station ticket counter.

Tatkal tickets are subject to availability and can sell out quickly, especially during peak travel times.

The fare for Tatkal tickets is usually higher than regular tickets.

What are the bathrooms like on Indian trains?

Bathrooms on Indian trains can vary in condition and cleanliness depending on the train and class of travel. In general, Indian trains have two types of toilets: a squat and a western seat.

However, it’s worth noting that the conditions of the bathrooms on Indian trains can be challenging, especially on long journeys.

The bathrooms can become dirty, and the water supply may be limited.

It’s essential to bring your own toilet paper and hand sanitiser and to use the bathrooms with caution.

What are the different train classes?

Indian Railways offers a variety of classes for passengers to choose from, each with its own set of amenities and price points.

Here’s a brief overview of the different classes in Indian Railways:

• AC First Class (1A): The most expensive and luxurious class on Indian Railways, AC First Class provides private cabins with lockable doors, comfortable beds, and exclusive access to a personal attendant. It is available only on a few select trains.
• AC 2 Tier (2A): AC 2 Tier provides private berths with curtains for privacy and air-conditioning. It has two tiers of sleeping arrangements, with a lower and an upper berth.
• AC 3 Tier (3A): AC 3 Tier provides sleeping arrangements with three tiers of berths, with a lower, middle, and upper berth. Each compartment is air-conditioned and has curtains for privacy.
• Sleeper Class (SL): Sleeper Class is a non-air-conditioned class that provides sleeping arrangements with three tiers of berths, similar to AC 3 Tier. It is the most popular and affordable class in Indian Railways.
• General Class (GN): General Class is the most basic and cheapest class on Indian Railways. It is a non-reserved class, where passengers sit on wooden or cushioned benches.
• Executive Class Chair Car (EC): Executive Class Chair Car is a premium class with reclining chairs and air-conditioning. It is available only on select trains, usually for short-distance journeys.
• Chair Car (CC): Chair Car is a class that provides comfortable chairs and air-conditioning, usually for short-distance journeys.

It’s important to note that the availability of different classes varies by train and route. Passengers can choose their preferred class based on their budget, comfort preferences, and the length of their journey.

10 Issues to be aware of when travelling by train in India

• Be prepared for long journeys: Train journeys in India can be long and may require overnight travel, so be sure to pack accordingly.
• Book your tickets in advance: Popular train routes and travel dates can sell out quickly, so booking your tickets well in advance is advisable.
• Beware of scams: There are many scams associated with train travel in India, including touts selling fake tickets and people stealing luggage on crowded trains.
• Carry a valid ID: A valid ID, such as a passport or Aadhaar card, is required to book train tickets in India.
• Be prepared for delays: Train delays are common in India, so plan accordingly and bring snacks and water.
• Check your train schedule: Trains can arrive at odd hours, so double-check the train schedule before travelling.
• Be mindful of your belongings: Keep an eye on your belongings and be wary of pickpockets and theft on crowded trains.
• Be respectful of local customs: Indian trains can be crowded and noisy, so be respectful of local customs and etiquette.
• Be prepared for different types of trains: There are different types of trains in India, ranging from local commuter trains to long-distance express trains, so be prepared for different kinds of journeys.
• Carry cash: Many train stations and vendors on the train only accept cash, so be sure to carry enough cash for your journey.

What are the luggage limits on trains?

There are no baggage limits on Indian trains, but it’s advisable to keep your luggage secure and within reach. You can also store your luggage in the storage compartments above the seats.

How to keep your valuables safe on train trips

You can use a lock and chain to chain your bags underneath the seats while sleeping. For my valuables, I have them in a backpack and sleep with that next to my pillow.

What are the different types of train tickets?

In Indian Railways, waitlist and confirmed tickets are two types of tickets passengers can book for a train journey.

Here’s a brief explanation of each:

• Waitlist tickets: A waitlist ticket is a type of ticket that is issued when all the available seats or berths on a train have been booked. Passengers who book a waitlist ticket are placed on a waiting list, and their ticket is not confirmed until there are cancellations or additional coaches are added to the train. Waitlisted tickets are designated with a WL followed by a number, indicating the passenger’s position on the waiting list.
• Confirmed tickets: A confirmed ticket is issued when a seat or berth is available on the train at the time of booking. Passengers who book a confirmed ticket have a guaranteed seat or berth on the train. Confirmed tickets are designated with a CNF status on the reservation chart.

Passengers with waitlist tickets can check their PNR status online to see if their ticket has been confirmed or if they are still on the waiting list.

If the ticket is not confirmed, the passenger is not allowed to board the train. However, if the ticket is confirmed, the passenger can board the train and occupy the designated seat or berth.

What are reservation charts, and when are they released?

Indian Railway reservation charts are physical or electronic documents that contain important information about the passengers who have reserved seats or berths on a train.

The charts contain details such as the passenger’s name, age, gender, seat or berth number, coach number, and other relevant information.

Passengers can check the charts to know if their reservation has been confirmed and to find their seat, berth number, and coach number.

These days important information like your coach and seat numbers are sent in an SMS a few hours before the train departs. So you probably won’t even need to check the reservation charts online.

These charts are prepared by the railway authorities a few hours before the scheduled departure of the train and are posted at the railway station.

In the case of electronic charts, passengers can check the information online through the Indian Railways website or mobile application. Electronic charts are usually available a few hours before the scheduled departure of the train.

In conclusion, travelling by train in India can be an unforgettable experience for foreign tourists. Following these tips, foreigners can easily book train tickets in India, navigate the Indian Railways system, and enjoy a comfortable and safe journey across the country.

Enjoy your trip, and drop any questions in the comments.

• Tags Best of India , India , Trains , Travel Safety

By Karl Rock

Karl Rock, is a Hindi speaking Kiwi ex-pat who take viewers behind the scenes of incredible India and its neighbours. He has visited every state and union territory in India, and its culturally similar neighbours – Pakistan and Bangladesh, and aims to make others fall in love with India and the subcontinent.

3 replies on “How to Book a Train Ticket in India (For Foreigners)”

Hi Karl, I’m trying to book a train ticket in India from NZ and am hitting a brick wall. When registering on the IR website, I could only give a NZ number as I don’t have an Indian mobile. Then while trying to book a ticket, the system won’t proceed until I give a +91 mobile number! Any idea how one gets around this?

Try Foreign tourist quota account, and also check out Make my trip website, else put in a Indian mobile number of any of your friends in India.

Hi Karl, I just love your India blog. I’m a British Indian used to travelling in India. Your blogs confirm everything I’ve experienced and it’s comforting to know that I’m having equally good experience of India. Off course this includes having relations there too. This is the first time I’m travelling around India on the train and want to experience the new semi-bullet trains like the Vande Bharat. This blog has focused my mind and now I have secured three confirmed journeys, around Maharastra and Gujarat. Only one tiny issue you might be able to help with. I tried to book seats for my wife and myself, one window and an Isle seat on the Vande Bharat train using the IRCTC website. On completing the booking I find that both of us have been allocated isle seats in different places. Any suggestion how this can be amended.

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How to book train tickets as foreigner in India?

Updated 14-02-2024

Booking train tickets as a foreigner can be a challenging task. When I tell my family, friends and other travellers this article is one of my most popular articles they look at me weirdly and ask me: seriously?! It’s difficult to explain when someone never visited India , but yes, booking train tickets as foreigner in India is not easy. But not impossible. With this article I help you to create an (infamous) IRCTC account and how to book train tickets as foreigner in India.

The Indian Railways is one of the world’s largest railway networks. Before the Covid-19 pandemic the estimated number of people travelling by train was 23 million per day. It takes some time to plan your trip, find the right trains with your preferred class, route and timetables but travelling by train in India is an unique experience by itself.

This post contains affiliate links. Rest assured, it won’t cost you anything extra. By clicking the link, I may earn a small commission, which helps to keep this website running and provide you with valuable travel information and inspiration.

Table of Contents

Why do you need to reserve a seat?

You might have seen videos or photos from people sitting on top of the trains, hanging out windows and open doors or people jumping out of moving trains? I hate to disappoint you but the only thing you can witness today is people hanging out of open doors. Passengers do not jump out of moving trains anymore and today it is forbidden to sit on top of the train. Taking the train can be quite overwhelming when it comes to the large number of people boarding a train.

Going to the train station and board a train without booking is only possible for the 2 nd sitting class. The 2 nd sitting class is the cheapest class and extremely overcrowded. The 2 nd sitting is the only class for which you don’t have to book tickets. For alll other classes you need to book a ticket in advance. You can go to the station at random that day and try to book a ticket for the 3AC trier but most seats sell out weeks (or months) before. Especially during Indian holidays & festivals and on popular tourist routes.

Unreserved 2 nd sitting

The 2 nd sitting is the cheapest class and overcrowded. Tickets literally never sell out. I have travelled in the this class twice during shorter day journeys in Rajasthan . Both times I was lucky to run into a family (mostly women) that invited me to sit with them. Which meant I spend 6 hours with half buttock on the bench and the other half hanging around. But nonetheless grateful I had half a seat.

Don’t expect to get a seat in the 2 nd sitting because all seats are taken by passengers boarding at earlier stations. Some passengers board the train for 24 hours journeys or longer. It’s not uncommon that families travel for 40 hours and sit in the same spot on the floor. When it’s very busy there is no space to sit and you will be forced to stand the entire trip. Keep this in mind. I do not recommend travelling in this class overnight.

Sleeper Class

The Sleeper Class have day seats during the day and the seats are converted into three-tier bunks at night. This class does not have AC and windows are often open. During the day you will appreciate the open windows for the fresh air and the views. In some regions it can be cold at night so keep in mind to bring a sweater or jacket. Sheets and pillows are not provided, so bring your own to be a bit more comfortable. If you are lucky Sleeper class tickets can be available a few days in advance.

AC Executive Chair

The AC Executive Chair is the same as the European second class. The seats are comfortable, the coaches are clean, there is AC and some trains have a digital display showing the next train station. Depending on duration of your journey a meal is provided. This class is rare in India. The only time I have travelled in this class is from New Delhi to Agra to visit the Taj Mahal.

Three-tier berths in groups of six. During the day the bunks are converted to seats. Looks the same as sleeper class but with AC.

Two-tier berths in groups of four. There are curtains for some privacy. Depending on train, duration and route snacks and or meals are provided. This class is more comfortable compared to the 3AC-Tier and has AC. Sheets and pillows are provided.

There are two and four berth compartments. The doors in these compartments can be locked and meals are included. This class is the most expensive and the most comfortable class of all.

Sheets and pillows are provided in the 3AC, 2AC and 1AC- tier. Or you can bring your own.

Availability of classes

Not all classes are available on each train. Second sitting, Sleeper Class and 3AC Tier are the most common. The AC Executive Chair is often used for popular shorter journeys during the day. 2AC- tier and 1AC- tier are only available on long distance journeys. Tickets for the 3AC, 2AC and 1AC- tier often sell out weeks before the date of departure, especially on popular tourist routes: New Delhi-Agra, Jaipur , Jodhpur , Jaisalmer, Udaipur and Mumbai to Goa (to name a few).

Booking train tickets online

Tickets are available 180 days before the date of departure. The reason why tickets sell out fast is because families book there tickets months in advance. Sometimes they book several dates at once. For Indian citizens it’s very easy to cancel their tickets. When they cancel their tickets they go to the train station for a refund, even on the day of departure. That is why tickets sell out fast and the IRCTC has waiting lists.

To book train tickets online you have a few options:

• IRCTC : Official website of the Indian Railways.
• Make my trip ; An easy to use website and app. Better oversight of the available trains. The website charges a small fee and you need an IRCTC account to book train tickets. At the time of updating this article Makemytrip & Cleartrip have blocked access to European customers since the strong data protection GDPR rules were introduced. A way around this is to change your VPN connection!
• Cleartrip : Similar as Make my trip. Also not available for European customers at the moment.
• Easiest option out there is 12Go : You don’t need an IRCTC account which is a huge plus but the site does not show the ticket availability. A way around this is to check the availability via IRCTC, Make my trip or Cleartrip and later on book the ticket via 12Go. Another plus when using 12Go is to book buses and domestic flights in India. They compare bus and flight fares and making bookings is very easy.

Note: To book train tickets via IRCTC, Makemytrip and Cleartrip you need an IRCTC account. See the following paragraph on how to create an IRCTC account.

Create an account at IRCTC

Go to irctc.co.in and register as an individual. To register as a foreigner you need to have an active foreign phone number. You can’t use your Indian number. After filling in the registration form you have to pay 100 rupees with your international credit card to verify your details are correct.

After a successful payment they send a confirmation e-mail and a text message. This can take a few hours. You need to verify your e-mail AND your phone number. They send two different OTP codes and you need to verify both.

Tip to register your ISD phone number

A note to register your phone number at IRCTC. The ISD number is the country code plus the first digit of your mobile number. I struggled with this at first because I used  00 or + before the country code. I have a Belgium number and the country code is +32 or 0032. Mobile numbers in Belgium start with 4, so my ISD number is 324. You don’t use the +32 or 0032 variation just 324. For the Netherlands for example the ISD is 316, 31 is the country code and 6 is the first digit of mobile numbers in the Netherlands.

What is the Foreign Tourist Quota?

The Indian Railways have divided the large amount of bookable tickets in various allotments. They have done this to make it easier to book online tickets. One of them is the Foreign Tourist Quota. The tourist quota is not available on every train and after the Covid-19 pandemic these tickets are even harder to come by.

When you have created an IRCTC account and have logged in you click the menu logo in the right top corner of the screen (on laptop). Click on trains and then foreign tourist booking . (Or select the foreign tourist instead of the general quota when searching for trains.) Now you can search for the trains and tickets that are available with the Foreign Tourist Quota. You pay more compared to the general quota. But when the general quota is sold out and you can try to find a ticket via the Foreign Tourist Quota. You can only use this quota when you created an account with a foreign phone number and pay with a foreign credit card. The tourist quota is not accessible when you used an Indian phone number. See picture below to see an example of available tickets with a tourist quota.

Why can’t I book a general ticket?

If you try to book a general train ticket (so no tourist quota) a few days in advance it is possible the tickets are sold out. There is a difference between available tickets and tickets in a waiting list. See pictures below to see the difference. The red coloured text is the waiting list. You can choose to be on the waiting list and you have to pay in advance. On the day of departure you go to the train station and check at the ticket counter if there are seats available. If not, you can request a refund at the counter.

A few years ago it was (almost) impossible to book a general ticket with a foreign credit card. I managed to pay one time with a foreign credit card. Nowadays it is a bit easier but still tricky. I don’t know the reason for this. A few years ago I even tried to pay with an Indian credit card and the website refused the payment. Nobody knows why. It’s just a matter of the right timing I guess. So just keep your fingers crossed when submitting the payment.

Other ways to book train tickets in India?

At the railway station.

You can go to the train station directly. But come prepared. Write down the departure and arrival stations, dates, hours, train name and number. You have to fill in a reservation form at the ticket office and you need to know all the ins and outs of the train you would like to be on. Be prepared to have one or two alternatives just in case. And bring a book. Waiting lines can be long in larger cities and people do skip the line. Don’t trust any agents or touts hanging around the railway stations, especially in Delhi. It’s safer to ask your hotel, homestay or hostel for specific information.

Booking train tickets via a travel agent or hotel

It is of course possible to book a train ticket via a travel agent, hotel or hostel. They charge a commission, which is fine, but the truth is: they often use the same legendary IRCTC- website. They are registered as agent at IRCTC and have a quota of 5 bookings per month. Travel agents and hotels face the same issues when booking train tickets as us. Some hotels and hostels don’t even bother trying to book train tickets because it takes too much time. There are travel agents who can do magic and manage to get you a ticket. Always ask to see the ticket first and check the details of the booking: date, stations, train number and name etc. before paying. Best way to find a reliable travel agent is to ask the reception of your hotel or ask other travellers.

I hope I helped you a bit on how to book train tickets as foreigner in India. Enjoy your trip in India.

Monumental highlights to visit in India

Explore the rich tapestry of India with our  comprehensive travel guide ! Discover valuable tips, top destinations, and useful links to other India-related articles. Immerse yourself in the  Indian culture and Hinduism with our beginner’s guide , which covers customs, etiquette, and key Hindu gods. Or learn more about the lesser-known religion,  Jainism .

Seeking travel inspiration? Consider a visit to the enchanting City of Lakes,  Udaipur , or indulge in a shopping spree in  Jaipur . Or discover the  majestic palaces of Rajasthan . Marvel at the colonial architecture of  Kochi  in Kerala or explore historical temples, palaces, and ruins in  Hampi . Goa is popular for its beaches but did you know the state has many  historical and natural wonders  waiting to be explored? Let India’s wonders captivate you!

One of my latest articles is about  The most fascinating festivals and celebrations in India . Or read more about sustainable travel India:  How to get around in India as an eco-conscious tourist

Ayurveda in India

Discover  Ayurveda , the ancient Indian healing system gaining global popularity. Explore its natural and holistic approach to health and wellness, prioritizing balance and harmony for optimal well-being. Learn about Ayurveda’s origins, its growing popularity, and how it can enhance your life. Join me on this journey of Ayurvedic wisdom and unlock the secrets of a balanced and vibrant existence.

Book tours and activities in India with Viator

Hola, I'm Adriana. I'm Dutch and living in Antwerp, Belgium. After graduating from university I went to Nepal for one month. Somehow this short trip became a 18-month journey in Asia and I spend most of that time in the incredible and hectic subcontinent of India...😁

I work as freelance chef in Belgium. And sometimes as TripLeader for JoinMyTrip. Would you like to join me on one of my trips? Go to the page JoinMyTrip and check out upcoming trips.💚

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Explore ITWJ collection of sterling silver jewelry at our Etsy shop . Each piece is meticulously handcrafted in Jaipur , India , showcasing the artistry of skilled artisans.  ♡🌿

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This post has 20 comments.

Hi, i used the option you said of 12go. Yet i see all my tickets are under General Quota. Will this give me issues on the train?

Hola, It’s good to hear the article is useful for you. The general quota ticket is open for everyone, also for foreigners so it will not be an issue on the train. Just remember to sit in the class you booked the tickets for and you are good to go. Enjoy your trip in India.

Just want to shout out a big THANKS for all the research and detail provided on how to book a ticket in India. I really thought I was going nuts!!! Could not get past drop down for entering my foreign cell number until I found and read your blog instructions, so thank you. Happy to say, we just printed out our tickets purchased on line after 2 days of hunting and pecking trying to figure out which ticket site to use, how to register and completing the information. Again, our thanks. Susan and Aaron

Hola Susan,

I’m happy to read the tips are useful and that you managed to book your tickets. Enjoy your trip in India.

Hello adriana, i cant get the mobilephone trick working. im from denmark, and the code is 45 and numbers start with 2, does that mean i need to write 452 in the isd and then start with or without the 2 in the next one, thanks.

Hola Lasse,

Thank you for your comment. Yes, your ISD is 452 and the next field you start without the 2 and fill in the rest of your phone number. I hope it works so you can register at IRCTC. Enjoy your trip in India.

Hello Adriana, Thanks for your very helpful insight; I am currently desperate to get train tickets for a trip in a month time! The international code for Luxembourg there I lived is 352 and the first digit fo the mobile phone is 6. Seems to work out fine by inserting 352 in the ISD space but i cannot seem to manage receiving the code via text message! Best, Amanda

Thank you for your message. It’s possible you have tried to register too many times in a short time. Did you get a new code via e-mail everytime you have tried to register or just one time? If you received a code once it means the other times the registration has failed. Their system is not always working as it should due to the large amount of daily users. The IRCTC website updates every night and my advice is to wait a few days and try again. Failed new registrations are deleted from the system and it’s possible it will work in a few days. I know it sounds silly but I have once managed to talk a help centre employee and he told me the same thing. And it worked so try again later. If it does not work, you can try to book tickets via 12GoAsia.

Enjoy your trip to India.

Hey Adriana! Many thanks for your lovely message. I have received an OTP code to verify my email ID only once and it worked out just fine but to verify my phone, that’s another story! Indeed I will try again after 24 hours without asking any OTP code. To book via 12goAsia, I shall not need an IRCTC identification? I will try that as well! Thanks and bye for now. Amanda

To book tickets via 12GoAsia you do not need an IRCTC account. That is the beauty of it. Good luck with the bookings.

Hai Andrian, Booking via 12GoAsia is safe? I from Malaysia and will landing at Chennai international airport. The next day will bring my family from Chennai to Visag on May. 6 person include 1 kid. Please advise me.

How are you? Thank you for your message. I only use links or recommendations of people and businesses I trust. So yes, 12Go ASia is safe and reliable to book tickets. Many other visitors of my travel blog have used the website or app to make bookings. Enjoy your stay in India.

Hi Adriana,

Great post, would have been really challenging to navigate the registration process without the detail provided.

Currently on the IRCTC site and looking to book for 3 people in 1AC class. Do you know if we will be allocated the same cabin by default or if there is a way of requesting this?

Thanks, Dirk

Thank you for your message. If you like to be sure you are in the same cabin it’s best to call the IRCTC or go to the train station. There is no garantuee you are in the same cabin when you book online.

Hi Adriana, We are a group of 14 Malaysians, planning a train journey from Kolkata to Jammu with a two-day stop over in Varanasi. We want to book 1AC- Tier ( two and four berth compartments). How many such 1AC-tier are available per coach? How do I go about making online booking of seats? Thank you. Dana

The amount of berth compartments in the 1AC trier is different per train and route. But usually it’s four berths. For group bookings I advise you to call or send the IRCTC an email or make a booking via a travel agent.

Namaste Adriana, good article, it set me on the right direction, although it took a lot of time. I was able to buy Kolkata to Varanasi tix through general as there were none on tourist or 12Go for the convenient timed departure. I had problems finding the payment portal for my Australian credit card but after many page crashes had success through Razorpay on the wallet dropdown- It was quicker queuing at the station back in the early 80s..Michael

Hi Michael,

I encountered a similar issue while attempting an online payment in the past. Hopefully, your next experience will be more successful. Have a fantastic trip in India!

Hi Adriana, I am travelling to India in Feb 24 and wanted to book train tickets. I have hit the brick wall with my UK mobile number authentication. I and sent so mail email to care @ irctc : and I don’t know understand how these people work – anyway I have authenticated my email id. Can you kindly help me to enter the correct format on IRCTC authentication section, they have taken Rs 100 + tax to register my account and details. My uk phone no is the problem. This is my UK number : 07985195277 So according to you is this how you enter : 440 795195277 ?

It can take a few hours/ days before the payment went through their system. And to regarding your number: you don’t use the first zero, so in your case it’s 44 79… If it’s not working for you can try to call the IRCTC or book a ticket via 12Go Asia. The last option is most convenient and reliable. Good luck and I hope it works out.

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Frequently asked questions, how to book train tickets online.

Online train ticket booking can be made quickly and easily in a few easy steps.

• Sign into Adani One website or app.
• Along with the date of travel, enter the locations of the source and destination. Following completion, a list of trains running along your route will be shown.
• Choose your preferred train and class, boarding and destination stations.
• Enter the passenger's information and complete the payment & reservation process.
• Once your money has been received and processed, a confirmation will be sent to your registered email address and mobile phone.
• You can download the ticket and the invoice.

Do I have to create an account in order to book an IRCTC train ticket online?

What is irctc's tatkal booking and how does it work, how many passengers can i reserve on a single rail ticket, are children charged for irctc train ticket booking, can i modify my irctc login credentials, what services does irctc provide for its passengers, what are the fees for railway train ticket cancellations, what documents are needed to book the railway train tickets, what do the abbreviations rac, gnwl, pqwl, rlwl, and tqwl in indian railway reservations mean, what is the current status and booking status of the irctc, how do i place a food order in the train, how can i find out my train ticket's pnr status, can i use the mobile to show the online railway ticket, when is a train's chart prepared, can i view my irctc train's real-time status, what does tdr indicate in irctc train ticket, are there any additional charges for booking train tickets online, can i choose my seat or berth while booking a train ticket, what are the payment options available for train ticket booking, is it possible to get a refund for a cancelled train ticket, how far in advance can i book train tickets, what are the different ticket types available for train journeys, how can i check the status of my train ticket booking, how can i contact customer support for train ticket booking assistance, how can i check train availability and seat availability, how can i find the train schedule and timetable, how can i check pnr status and ticket confirmation, can i change the boarding point or train after booking the ticket, what is tdr in your irctc train ticket , how can i file tdr if i booked my train tickets using adani one .

To raise a TDR, follow these steps:  

• Go to "Bookings" and open the PNR  
• Click on "File TDR" and select the reason  
• TDR approval/rejection is solely dependent upon IRCTC. 

Is there any limit to the number of train ticket bookings per month? 

How many days in advance can the rail tickets be booked , does adani one provide the train’s running status , how can i cancel my train ticket booking after confirmation at adani one .

Free Cancellation service on Adani One allows you to cancel your train ticket without any additional cancellation charges. So you can book your ticket without any hiccups in your plans. This service is applicable on all train tickets booked via Adani One platform.  

Please follow these simple steps to avail the free cancellation service :

• Step1 : Log in to your Adani One account 
• Step 2 : Go to train booking page on the platform 
• Step 3 : While selecting your journey stations, tick on "free cancellation" 
• Step 4 : While reviewing your ticket details, find the estimated refund on your journey 
• Step 5 : Next, make your payment including the FCS fee 
• Step 6 : Opt for a full refund by cancelling your ticket before chart preparation.  

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Booking train tickets from Adani One offers several advantages:

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• IRCTC Authorised Partner : Adani One is an authorised partner of the Indian Railways Catering and Tourism Corporation (IRCTC), which is the official website for online train ticket bookings in India.
• Wide range of Train Services : Adani One offers a wide range of train services to cater to the diverse needs of our users. Whether you are looking for online train ticket booking, PNR enquiry, confirmation probability, or train schedule information, we have got you covered.
• So, what are you waiting for? Book your train tickets with Adani One today and enjoy a hassle-free travel experience.

Steps to Book Train Ticket Online

• Sign into Adani One website or app. Select ‘Trains’ from the menu.
• Choose your Indian Railway stations of origin and destination from the list.
• Select your departure date & click on “Book Ticket”.
• Depending on the arrival time and travel time (in hours), select your Indian Railway train and travel class.
• Fill in the passenger information, including preferred berths, children, and senior citizen names.
• You will be directed to the payment page, and you need to complete the payment and reservation processes.
• A confirmation will be sent to your registered email address and mobile phone.

Various Types of Train Ticket Booking

• Ladies Quota: This quota was established in 2011 to create a system that would allow women to securely travel on their own in trains for both short and long distances. The ladies’ quota discount is available to women who are either travelling alone or who are travelling with children under the age of three. You can choose the ladies quota option when selecting IRCTC online train booking on Adani One app, but keep in mind there are only six berths available under this quota.
• Full Tariff Booking: Sometimes customers need to reserve their entire coach or train for events like parties and trips. The IRCTC’s FTR (Full Tariff Rate) service enables travelers to make such reservations. You can use Adani One app to make hassle-free reservations and get to know the live train running status to ensure that your journey is convenient.
• General Booking: On Adani One App, you can make general online train reservation. It applies to tickets whose dates are flexible either forward or backward. You can thus book a new ticket by paying an additional fee. However, whether you will receive a confirmed booking is typically not guaranteed. Tickets might be put into RAC or waiting list. In addition, the train platform locator feature on Adani One app enables passengers to know the location of their coach.
• Tatkal Booking: Tatkal is the term for last-minute reservations in the Indian railway system. Sometimes, choosing tickets in advance is just not an option because of an unforeseen travel schedule or an urgent need to travel somewhere. For certain events, IRCTC offers a special tatkal ticket booking option. Tatkal tickets often costs more than ordinary tickets. FIFO (First IN First Out) is the sole pattern in which these tickets are offered. Also, you can do a tatkal booking on Adani One app to ensure train seat availability not only this but, with Adani One app, you can also easily check your IRCTC PNR status if your ticket id waitlisting or RAC.

IRCTC Train Ticket Booking Fare Information

Below is the table that shows the Indian railway ticket booking fare as per different class and travel:

Important Documents to Carry During Your Journey

• Aadhar Card
• Driving License
• Voter Id Card
• Bank Passbook with your photograph
• Student Id card which is issued by recognized college or University carrying your photograph

Timings to Book Train Tickets

Our booking timings are flexible, and we are available to assist you with any queries or issues you may have while booking your tickets. We also offer a range of payment options to make your booking experience smooth and convenient. With our IRCTC-authorized partner status and secure payment options, you can rest assured that your bookings are safe and secure. Our platform is a superior train booking site that makes it easy for you to book your train tickets with just a few clicks.  Adani One is optimized for IRCTC Next Generation and offers a convenient train ticket booking app you can use from anywhere. We offer flexible booking timings and assistance to ensure your booking experience is smooth and convenient. We offer you the convenience of booking train tickets online. You can now book your tickets from the comfort of your home or office without having to stand in long queues at railway stations. Our website is user-friendly, and our booking process is simple and quick. 

Global Gallivanting

The ultimate guide to train travel in india: including how to book train tickets from abroad..

My Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in India

The best way to travel India is by the vast, and great value, Indian Railways network and traveling on Indian railways is an essential Indian bucket list experience in itself.

However, this massive system can be confusing to navigate at first and tickets can get booked up way in advance and can be difficult to book from abroad.

But never fear, read on and I’ll explain everything you need to know in this ultimate guide to train travel in India including how to book train tickets in India (even from abroad) and all the tips you need for traveling by train in India

I’ve been traveling around India independently, on a budget, and mostly as a solo female traveler since 2013. In my ultimate guide to train travel in India I’ll introduce you to Indian Railways and guide you through how to book train tickets in India.

As Indian trains get fully booked weeks and months in advance, I will also show you how to book train tickets in India in advance even from abroad to ensure a smooth trip.

I will explain all the different ticket types and 8 classes found on Indian Railways. Do you need to know what a Taktal ticket is? What is the different between AC2 and AC3? Should you join a Wait List? Is sleeper class really that bad? All the answers are here…

I’ve also written down all my tips for traveling by rail in India and answered your questions and queries about how to find your seat, food, safety, scams and of course the state of the toilets on Indian trains!

It’s a long post (Indian Railways is one of the largest and busiest rail networks in the world after all!) so grab a chai and settle down and I’ll explain all you need to know about train travel in India!

Indian Rail Travel Explained

India is a huge country with an amazing diversity of sights but vast distances mean that when planning a trip to India you need to give some thought about how you are going to get around.

India offers multiple ways to get around (albeit often slowly) this massive sub continent, you can get transport to pretty much every corner of India for a very affordable price, but you need patience because getting anywhere in India always takes  longer than you think.

My main advice is always to take it slow – Everything seems to take a lot longer than you think and trying to cram too much in often leads to a stressful and frustrating trip that is hard to enjoy.

Read More: 5 Common mistakes travellers often make when visiting India for the 1st time

Why take the train instead of the bus?

Train travel is very popular because the roads in India are often poor, traffic can be chaotic and buses rickety so the best way to get around the huge and diverse country of India is by train.

Of course, you could take the bus – buses in India range from bone shakers that you can’t believe are still in one piece and running to ‘delux AC’ buses that are just about reasonably comfortable.

Still, taking the train is so much more comfortable in India and the scenery is usually better. After a  nightmare sleeper bus ride ( it was like being in a coffin on a roller coaster) from Mumbai to Goa on my first trip to India I always prefer train travel in India now, especially on longer journeys.

The Indian railways network is one of the largest in the world and stretches to almost every corner of this amazing and diverse country and ticket fares are incredibly good value. With over 63,000 km of rail routes and 6,800 stations you can get to pretty much every town or city in India by rail.

Indian Railways is the third biggest passenger rail network in the world (after Russia and China) and the busiest in terms of passengers. About 23 million people travel regularly by train in India and Indian Railways employs over 1.5 million staff making it one of the world’s biggest employers.

There are over 10,000 locomotives with over 67,ooo passenger coaches covering over 66,0o0 Kms across the country. If you laid out all the railway tracks in India in one straight line they would circle the earth about 1.5 times!

Indian train journeys don’t get boring, you’ll see all sorts going on both inside and outside the train and its a unique and culturally immersive experience that you won’t want to miss.

But in the world’s most densely populated country seats on Indian trains sell out fast , especially for popular routes in the peak tourist season you can find trains booked up weeks or even months ahead which could put a real delay on your travel plans! Which means arranging your train tickets should be on your ‘to do’ list as you prepare for your trip to India. 

Read More India travel blogs:

• My Complete Guide to Planning your First Trip to India
• My complete guide to getting a tourist visa for India

How to book train tickets for Indian railways in advance?

As train travel in India is so popular I always advise people to book their train tickets in advance , there are many ways that you can book a train ticket in India but if you are expecting to be able to arrive and hop on and hop off then you will be disappointed.

You will need a reservation for all Indian Railways long distance trains , except if traveling in unreserved second class which I wouldn’t recommend (although it’s often not as bad as you this! …)

There are several ways that you can buy an Indian train ticket  – online, at a travel agency or Indian Railways booking counter.

Update! You can now also book some (but not all routes are available)  Indian Railway tickets online at Bookaway

Due to the high demand for train travel in India tickets for Indian trains can be booked up to 120 days in advance.

To make your trip to India more enjoyable and less stressful I recommend you book your tickets in advance, especially if you have a limited amount of time to spend traveling India and a packed itinerary of places you want to see.

If you want to find out the earliest date that a train is available you can look on www.indianrail.gov.in and click ‘Availability at major stations’ then ‘Earliest date of available berths’ you can see the next date on which berths are available on key trains leaving each of the most important stations.

So now you can see why you need to book train tickets in advance! But booking trains from outside India is not so easy….

Where to book tickets for Indian trains:

Use a travel agent like india someday.

The easiest way by far to book train tickets from abroad is by using the services of a travel agent. India Someday are expert trip planners, and I’ve had great experiences travelling with them before so now I always use  India Someday to book my train tickets. They charge a small service fee but it takes away all the hassle and stress of booking train tickets and ensure you get the right trains to make your trip run smoothly.

India Someday can also help with all aspect of planning a trip around India, advising on the best routes to take, accommodation and all transport options. Global Gallivanting readers can also get 5% off the trip planning fee by using the code GLOBALGALLIVANTING5 when enquiring. Contact them through their website.

IRCTC Website

Online reservations can be made on the official government IRCTC Online Passenger Reservation website . I don’t find the IRCTC website very user friendly. It is slow and temperamental – often the service is unavailable although sometimes if you keep trying it will work eventually.

It’s also not so simple to use – first you need to know the number of the train you want to book instead of being able to search and book by destination (and importantly checking availability) and it also does not accept most foreign cards and can be hassle to set up an account without an Indian mobile number.( see here how to get an Indian sim card )

A much easier way to arrange your train travel in India and book trains, even from abroad, is to use a website like Cleartrip.com to search and book trains.

Their website is much more user friendly and easier to use. There is even an app you can get on your phone and, once your account is set up, this is probably the simplest way to book trains – it’s actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it!

Most importantly you can pay with an international card . However they do charge a small service fee and not all trains are displayed, you can now book Taktal tickets online but you can’t book the Foreign Tourist Quota through these websites.

How to set up a Clear Trip Account

To set up a Clear Trip account IRCTC has insisted that you must also sign up for an IRCTC account. When you register with Clear Trip it will set both accounts up for you, but IRCTC requires an Indian mobile phone number.

This makes it a little difficult to set up the account before you arrive in India but it is possible – you  can set up a Clear Trip account before you arrive without an Indian mobile number but, as with most things in India, patience and persistence are required.

Read More: How to get a local sim card in India

Read More: My Mumbai Travel Guide: The best places to visit, stay and eat.

To set up a Clear Trip account go through the normal process to set up an account, where it asks you to enter an Indian mobile number and zip code you will need to just make these up.

To make up an Indian mobile number it’s 10 digits and usually starts with 9, but you can’t use a mobile number that has already been used before so you might have to try a few combinations.

Then make up a numerical zip code (doesn’t work if you put in a UK style postcode) but make sure you change your country from India to UK or US or wherever and then finish the registration.

Then you should get an confirmation email with an Email OTP (Email One Time Password).  Now send an email back to IRCTC customer care, attach a scan of your passport, quote your IRCTC user name and ask them to send you the SMS OTP by email.

It could take a few days or you may have to chase them for a while. Once you get the password then you can verify and activate your account on Clear Trip and enter the Email or SMS OTP and then you are ready to book train tickets and enjoy train travel in India!

There is more detailed information of this process on the really useful website – the Man in Seat 61 

It’s a bit annoying but train travel in India really is the best way to travel here and so it’s worth it to book in advance and avoid the hassles of trying to get train tickets once you arrive.

Once you’ve got your Clear Trip account set up and the app on your phone it’s actually pretty easy to book train tickets! Just search the trains on the route you want to go, check the availability of the trains and book. Your ticket details will also be saved on the app and you can show it to the conductor – this is how I book most of my train travel in India.

Use a travel agency or ask a friend

If you have a friend in India you could ask them to book the train tickets for you and forward you the ticket by email. If not, if you want to avoid hassle and don’t mind paying a bit more you could ask a reputable travel agency or a train travel specialist to sort out your train bookings.

I recently traveled through North India for 12 days and used a great company called India Someday  to help plan my itinerary and book trains and homestays along the way ( read about it here )

India Someday are a young, energetic and resourceful travel company based in Mumbai (Bombay) who are experts on India and can assist you in booking trains and other transport as part of planning a complete well thought out, personalized trip to India.

They even offer Global Gallivanting readers 5% off just use the code GLOBALGALLIVANTING5.  Contact them through the India Someday website. 

Read More: My review of traveling with India Someday

Read More: Tips for women traveling in India

If you prefer your train travel in India to be more luxurious then there are even some ultra luxury tourist train routes in India , escorted group trips by train and rail passes.

There is an IndRail Pass option where you can buy the pass and ask them to make all the reservations you want to go with it, free of charge.

However, I’ve never tried this as I prefer to stay flexible and travel slow. Using a rail pass would most likely be more expensive than booking point to point tickets and to get your money’s worth you would have to have quite rushed and busy itinerary that was all pre booked. I

f you only had a short time to explore India and wanted to have everything pre arranged then this might be an option.

Read More: The perfect route and itinerary for backpacking India

Tips for booking train tickets in India

Train travel in India, like everything else in India, always throws up some surprises, here are a few more tips and things you should be aware of when traveling by train in India.

Whether you use IRCTC or an app like Clear Trip the Indian railways online booking service closes for maintenance each day between 23:30-00:30 Indian time ( 18:00-19:00 GMT)

Sometimes the system is overloaded with visitors or just randomly won’t work, shows an error or no trains available – as with everything in India be patient and persistent, refresh the screen and keep trying and it should work in the end!

The system only shows direct train routes. If your search does not come with any train then maybe it is because there is not a direct train to your destination the system cannot calculate a journey where you have to change trains, you have to find a station where you can change and make the booking separately as 2 tickets.

Most places in India have 2 names – the old colonial names and the newer more ‘Indianised’ names. If you are having trouble with the destination try the other spelling! Usually it uses the Indian name but sometimes, for example Trivandrum is still used instead of Thiruvananthapuram, Bengaluru uses the old name Bangalore.

Also, sometimes the name of the railway station is not necessarily the same name of the city. For example, the main railway station (and one of the busiest) in Kolkata/Calcutta is called Howrah so you would need to type this in.

Also, many major cities have more than one train station – a search for trains from Mumbai will bring up stations like Lokmanya Tilak, Navi Mumbai or Thane which are actually pretty far away from the main re where travelers stay.

The main station in Mumbai is CST, in Delhi the main station is New Delhi, but there are also many others. For Goa, the main train station is Madgaon/ Margao.

For stress free train travel in India and to book trains you will need to first have a little geographical knowledge of India, to help you you can can check the Indian Railways Trains at a Glance timetable. 

Read More: 8 useful apps to make traveling by train in India easier 

How to get a train ticket at the station in India

The main stations in big cities and tourist centres, such as New Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi (and 24hrs at Delhi International Airport)  have a separate booking office for foreign travellers called an International Tourist Bureau that you will need to visit if you want to get a last minute ticket from the foreign tourist quota.

Make sure you bring your passport, visa and cash and make sure you go to the right one! Don’t believe anyone that comes up to you claiming that it has closed, moved, burnt down, all trains are cancelled or whatever else! This is a scam to get you to go to their travel agency which may or may not even be able to provide the services but will certainly over charge you!

There is a list of stations with an International Tourist Bureau at www.indianrail.gov.in under the Information and International Tourist tabs. You could try your luck at a smaller station that has an international tourist reservation bureau as it may be less hassle and less waiting.

Either way, to apply for a tourist quota ticket you cannot get these online, you will need to go in, fill out a form showing where you want to go, show your passport and visa, wait and hope that there is a ticket available in the next couple of days for where you want to travel to.

You can only pay in cash with US dollars, UK pounds, Euros, or Indian rupees and you may need to show an encashment certificate, ATM receipt or something that shows that you obtained this cash in a proper, legal way.

Read More: My Mysore Travel Guide: The best places to visit, stay and eat

So now you know how to book your ticket, read on to know which class to book…

Indian Railway Classes Explained

When you are booking train tickets in India, first you will need to understand what class you want to travel and what type of ticket you have.

The array of  8 classes on Indian trains  can seem bewildering at first, although only a selection of these classes will be available on any given train, but let me break it down for you:

(AC1 or 1A) – Air conditioned first class

These can be sleepers or executive chair class and are a comfortable way to travel with lockable compartments in 2 or 4 berths available. However, there are not many carriages of these class and they are not found on every train. Also, the price is double the cost of AC2 and often comparable to a domestic flight.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 2,640  ( £26 / US$40 )

(AC2 or 2A) – Air conditioned 2-tier

AC2 is a comfortable and relatively clean way to travel and favoured by most middle class families. AC carriages (and the non air conditioned sleeper carriages) with upper, middle and lower bunks arranged in bays of six on one side of the aisle, and along the coach wall in bays of two (upper and lower) on the other side of the aisle. The bench style padded seats convert into bunks at night.

In the AC carriages, pillows, sheets and blankets are provided for overnight journeys and you also get plug sockets. On AC trains the windows are sealed and tinted this means not so much dust gets in so they are cleaner than sleeper class but the windows are often quite dirty so not good for gazing out at the countryside or taking photos. It’s also a good idea to take a fleece or jumper for the AC carriages too as sometimes I find these too cold.

The main difference between AC2 and AC3 is that there are only 2 levels of bunks instead of 3, so it feels a bit less crowded, and that AC2 has individual berth lights curtains allowing for a bit of privacy.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 1,580 ( £15 / US$ 25 )

(AC3 or 3A)- Air conditioned 3-tier

AC3 is very similar to AC2 with an open plan and air conditioned carriage with three tiers of bunks instead of 2 and is slightly cheaper. Bedding and plug sockets are provided and the windows are sealed but there are no privacy curtains. Normally the AC carriages are a bit cleaner and the berths are better padded than in sleeper class.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 1,120 ( £11 / US$ 17 )

(SL) Sleeper Class

Sleeper class coaches make up the majority of carriages on most long distance Indian trains and this is how most Indians travel.

The bunks are similar to those mentioned before in the AC carriages expect that, instead of air conditioning, there are fans and the windows are open providing a cool breeze and a good view of the countryside that’s better for taking photos!

The windows are fitted with bars to keep out intruders and have shutters you can bring down if it rains. There is also no bedding provided and it’s pretty grubby so you will probably want to bring your own sheet or sleeping bag.

When traveling in the winter (the best time to travel in India)  I find that I don’t need air conditioning – actually the AC is often too cold for me and the temperature in sleeper class once the train is moving is not too hot (actually sometimes in the North it can be a bit chilly)

I usually use sleeper class in the winter although I do prefer to take an AC carriage in the hotter months or if I’m traveling alone on a long journey over night.

Riding the rails is an essential experience for anyone visiting India and the atmosphere in sleeper class is always more vibrant.   You will often find that families want to talk to you and share their food with you. There are also hawkers coming along the train all the time selling food, drinks and a whole array of other items to the background soundtrack of tinny Bollywood tunes played from mobile phones, the rhythmic clack clack of the rails and the cries of “chai, chai, chai , coffee, coffee, coffee.” You can also buy food from the stations as sellers can pass it through the windows to you.

As all berths have to have a reservation the carriage should not be too crowded but sometimes people do still try their luck and the open windows do mean more noise and dust comes into the carriage but traveling in sleeper class gives you a better insight into Indian life both on and off the train.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 420 ( £ 4 / US$ 6 )

Read More: 30 Incredible experiences you can only have in India!

You might also find:

(EC) – AC Executive chair class and (CC) AC Chair class

These classes are a comfortable and air conditioned good choice for day time journeys.  There are also newer, modern fast trains like the Rajdhani Express (long distance)  and Shatabi Express (day time) on important routes for example Delhi to Mumbai that are very comfortable and faster than the older, normal trains. Food and drinks are sometimes included in the fare and served at your seat.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 950 ( £ 9 / US$ 14 )

First class (FC)

The traditional non-air-con 1st class coaches with lockable compartments but these are quite rare now.

(2S) Second Class Sitting

Open plan and non air conditioned cars with wooden or padded plastic seats. Fine for shorter day time journeys and most seats can be reserved but there are usually a couple of carriages like this that don’t need a reservation although I wouldn’t recommend joining the scrum in the unreserved carriages.

Example price from Mumbai to Goa – Rs 250 ( £2.50 / US$ 3.80)

Luxury, Shatabdi and Rajdhani Express Trains

If you are traveling shorter distances between major metro cities, popular tourist destinations or important pilgrimage sites you could book a seat on one of the newer and faster air conditioned Shatabdi or Rajdhani express trains.

There are only 2 classes and only seats not sleepers and the trains do not stop at so many places and the price is higher but these trains will get you where you need to go quicker and more comfortably. Refreshments are also often served on the train and are included in the price.

There is a new high speed train that connects New Delhi to Agra for the Taj Mahal in only 99 mins. Read more here  The Delhi-Bhopal Shatabdi Express takes 126 minutes to reach Agra from Delhi.

There are also new ultra luxury train tours you can take in India like The Deccan Express – the most luxurious train in India

There is also a new modern double decker train called the Tejas Express that has just started traveling the Mumbai – Goa route. Read more here…

Indian Train tickets explained

So once you’ve decided which class of carriage is most suitable for you, you can book your ticket. Like the classes, there is also a bewildering array ticket types for Indian trains.

Here is an explanation to the ticket types and acronyms that you will find when booking train tickets in India:

As train seats often get booked up far in advance if you see availability then book it while you can! Don’t wait and come back to it in a few days it may be gone and you can always cancel if you change your mind!

If your ticket says CNF then congratulations! You have a confirmed seat on a train!

RAC (Reservation Against Cancellation) and Waitlist (WL) tickets

Once a train is fully booked with confirmed reservations (CNF) next tickets are sold as ‘Reservation Against Cancellation’ (RAC) and then after that passengers are put on the Waitlist.

If you have an RAC ticket, you  are  allowed to travel on that train you just don’t have a specific seat booked until someone cancels and then you are promoted from RAC to CNF (confirmed). If no one cancels you can still get on the train and you should be given somewhere to sit but maybe not a sleeping berth.

If you are on the waiting list you still have to pay for your ticket but unless you are promoted to RAC or CNF before departure you are not allowed to travel. If you are not promoted to a confirmed seat then your fare will be refunded.

Read More: The Ultimate Guide to Goa 

Sounds risky but I’ve done this many time with a waiting list of 15 – 20 or below and always got on the train. You will find that 24 hours before the train is due to depart many people cancel and you should get a text/ email saying that your ticket is confirmed and showing your seat number.

I’ve seen waitlists of over 300 but I wouldn’t bother to join them but  I take an RAC or WL ticket under 20 and have a good track record of getting a confirmed ticket.

You can check the status of your booking on  www.indianrail.gov.in/pnr_Enq.html  or if you booked with Clear Trip enter the PNR number on your booking. If you have the Clear Trip app you can also check PNR status on there and any movement should be sent to you in a text. Don’t give up hope too soon if you are on the waitlist – most of the movement happens the day before departure.

With both of these options there is no guarantee that you will get seats together with your travel companions although it is likely that a family will all cancel together therefore giving you their seats together.

Tatkal (CK) Quotas

Tatkal is Hindi for  immediate . There some tickets on key trains that are held back for emergencies and available to book one day before departure and sold with an extra charge. For trains where there is no tourist quota you could try booking at Tatkal ticket. You can book these online from 10am one day before the departure but as the website is temperamental it’s best to go in and try to make the booking.

With Cleartrip you can book tickets from the General quota and the Tatkal quota for travel the following day but you  cannot  book Foreign Tourist quota tickets. You can also cannot buy more than 10 tickets per month. You cannot amend or change a booking but you can cancel it online and you get the majority of the ticket price refunded.

Tourist Quota Tickets

On many popular trains there’s a special (but small) Foreign Tourist quota which gives foreigners a chance to get on a train!  The tourist quota is not available on every train and there are only a couple of tickets available. So hoping for tourist quota tickets can be risky, if you know your itinerary then it’s much better to book your trains in advance.

With tourist quota tickets you will probably still have to wait a couple of days, it does not guarantee a seat on a train and cannot be booked online meaning you have to go and wait around at the ticket booking office (possibly for a few hours) and hope you can get on a train. Tourist quota tickets can be paid for in US Dollars, pounds sterling, or rupees but you may need to show an exchange certificate or ATM receipt.

Read More: 7 Reasons why traveling in India isn’t as difficult as you might think

More Tips for traveling India by train

Arrive with good time at the station to find your platform and seat.

Indian train stations can be huge, chaotic places and departure platforms can sometimes change at the last minute so arrive at the train station with plenty of time to find your train.

Your train, coach and berth number will be printed on your ticket and you can check the train number on a board to find out the platform.

Announcements are made in Hindi, English and the local language and reservation lists are posted on the notice board at each station and on the train door too and you can check your name is listed.

Indian trains are also really long, on the platform are markers to show where each train carriage should arrive and each carriage is also labelled.

Your carriage number and seat number is on your ticket for example S6 means the 6 th  carriage in sleeper class. B1 is the 1 st  AC3 carriage, A1 is the first AC2 and H1 would be first class AC. Usually the higher classes are at the front of the train don’t leave yourself sprinting down the platform trying to find your carriage with your backpack on.

Once on the train you won’t be able to cross between carriages of different classes so you would have to wait until  the next station if you got on in the wrong class.

Showing your ticket

When traveling by train in India all passengers are required to show their ticket and passport to the train conductor. Tickets cannot be sent overseas or picked up at the station but Cleartrip issues e-tickets, emailed to you to download and you can also see your tickets in the ‘Trips’ section of the app.

Until recently it was necessary to physically print out the tickets (annoying!) but since Feb 2015 I’ve had no problems simply showing the conductor the booking made on my phone in the app or downloaded email ticket along with my passport.

Toilets on Indian Trains

One of the biggest concerns about train travel in India is the toilets! Going to the toilet on any train is never the most pleasant experience and on Indian railways it is not different. There are toilets and wash basins at the end of every carriage with both squat and western options. Neither of which are that clean but not totally unbearable.

There is usually no toilet paper, soap or water but most travellers in India take tissues and hand sanitizer everywhere with them. Be careful you don’t drop anything out of your pocket onto the track too!  I haven’t travelled in 1 st  class but found that the conditions or the toilets in the AC classes are not that much better than sleeper class.

Food and Drink on Indian Trains

Indian Railways do not always have buffet or restaurant cars on the trains but some sort of food is always available. Hawkers regularly pass through the cars selling all kinds of food and drinks among other things for a few rupees (keep lots of 10 rupee notes handy for train journeys as they often don’t have change and most things are 10 or 20 rupees)

You can also order food from the attendant (veg or non veg) and it will be served to your seat. It’s cheap but I often find the train food is not great and the hygiene can be suspect so I often prefer to take snacks on with me.

There are also often many hawkers at the stations selling food, some stations even have local specialties, sometimes you can even call a restaurant and ask them to deliver to the train – Dominos is even staring to deliver pizzas to trains!

Expect to be late

I joke that Indian Railways must have an unbroken record of never having a train arrive on time but seriously I’ve never been on one that arrives on time so I allow plenty of time for delays. Time is a more flexible concept in India! Allow extra time for your train to be delayed by a couple of hours and chill out – India will teach you to be more patient and you will get there eventually!

The further the train is from the source (the start) the more likely it is to be late. These trains travel over many days all across the country so it’s no surprise that they often get held back. You can check the train running status online if your train will be late at   www.trainenquiry.com  or look on  www.erail.in  enter the train number to see how late yesterday’s train arrived to get an idea.

Also be aware that train travel in India can take a long time, India is a huge country and most of the trains travel pretty slowly and stop a lot – the journey from Kerala (Trivandrum)  to Delhi could take over 50 hours –  that’s over 2 full days (and maybe more if it is delayed) Domestic flights are not cheap but could be an option if you don’t want to spend 2 days on a train! I use  Skyscanner  to check for the cheapest deals if I need to save time.

How safe are Indian trains?

Train travel in India is one of the safer ways to travel however there are accidents on Indian Railways, the network is huge, aging and derailments do happen, although there has been a big drop in serious incidents since in the early 1990s and traveling by train is still safer than traveling by road!

Apart from accidents, train travel in India is usually pretty safe even for women travelling alone. In the lower classes you may encounter many stares of attention from other passengers but most of the time they are just curious. Foreigners traveling in the higher classes attract less attention and may feel safer because the other passengers are generally more educated but overall you are unlikely to have any problems at all.

On overnight train journeys women should book the upper bunk to avoid any potential wandering hands and also you can go and sleep without having to wait for other passengers to want to sleep.  Women should take advantage of the special ladies carriages wherever available (usually on local commuter trains) and take advantage of ladies queues and of course, dress conservatively.  If I travel on my own overnight I prefer to go for a higher class and book an AC carriage rather than a sleeper one but generally trains are pretty safe.  See more tips for women traveling in India here. 

Take care of your luggage though, theft is not common but it can happen if the opportunity is there although I’ve never had any problems. It’s  good to sleep with your valuables on you, perhaps in a money belt. You can also chain your bags underneath the seats so they are not easy to grab and run off with when the train reaches a station although this has never happened to me or anyone I know.

Scams and Hassles on Indian trains to be aware of

Unfortunately India has more than it’s fair share of scams and hassle for a traveller to contend and train travel in India is not without its share of scams but you should soon get to realise who is genuine and just ignore touts, hawkers and other scammers. When you disembark after a long train journey in a new destination you are at your most vulnerable and will most likely to accosted with many offers of taxis, tours and hotels.

I always try to get a train that arrives in daylight wherever possible because I feel safer when dealing with these touts and of course it’s easier to find accommodation.  Most of these offers will be over priced or a commission racket. The best way to deal with these is to just ignore all the touts and anyone that comes up to you, don’t engage at all and keep on walking confidently to find the official  pre paid taxi or rickshaw stand  (most big stations have them)

Failing that get out of the vicinity of the train station and just hail down a regular rickshaw who is just going about his normal business instead of preying on tourists and you are more likely to get a decent price and get taken straight to your hotel. It’s a good idea to know a landmark near your accommodation as more often than not the rickshaw driver will not know where it is although he may stop and ask people on the street as he goes along to help him find the place.

Read More: How to avoid the scams and survive your first time in Delhi.

Also be wary of anyone around places like train and bus stations, airport and major tourist attractions who tell you that where you want to go is closed, moved, burnt down, your train is cancelled or the hotel you want to go to is disgusting, closed, unsafe and that they will help you find an alternative or take you to the tourist information centre or ticket office.

Even if they look ‘official’ and are in uniform (this happened to me and  I got scammed in Delhi ) or you will lend up being taken to an alternative hotel from which they will earn a commission or at some fictitious travel agency or tourist information centre paying a lot of money for a service that may not even exist. I’ve heard of people booking and paying for a whole 2 week tour that turns out to not exist or paying over the odds for a taxi all the way to Varanasi when it was just that the train was delayed. Read more about common scams in India. 

Suburban Trains and Metros

Everyone’s seen those images of famously overcrowded Indian trains with people sitting on the roof and hanging on the side but I’ve never seen anything like that. Riding on the roof is illegal and I’ve never seen anyone doing it, the suburban trains or basic unreserved 2nd class carriages can get busy especially at peak periods, in Mumbai it’s called super dense crush load!

I avoid traveling in those peak hours on local trains but as long as your quick and prepared to barge on a bit taking the local commuter trains in Mumbai can be fun and a cheap and efficient way of getting around the crowded, congested and buzzing city.

Train travel in India is constantly changing and improving. India is rapidly building and introducing metro and rapid transit rail systems in many cities. Delhi’s metro is impressive, Calcutta has had one since 1984 and more metros are also started to operate in Bangalore, Mumbai, Chennai, Kochi and Jaipur.

What if you like to be flexible and spontaneous?

I hear you! I do as well – I don’t like to have all my travels planed out as you never know what’s going to happen, who you will met, which places you will love and wish to linger longer in and which you will hate and want to leave asap.

You cannot change or amend your booking online though so what I do, as sleeper trains are so cheap,  I often book a couple of options and then cancel the ones I don’t want only losing a tiny bit of money but it allows me to be more flexible.

It’s easy to cancel trains on the Clear Trip app and get a refund up to 4 hours before departure (not a full refund but you get most of it back).

Read More: The perfect route and itinerary for traveling India

Do you have any more questions or tips for train travel in India? Leave a comment below

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Yes please..would be very helpful..as I would like to book train tickets from South Africa.

That would be very helpful please

PDF would be fab 🙂

Super helpful!

I like how thorough many of your articles are. This is helpful not just to foreigners but also Indians.

Thanks so much – glad to hear that! 🙂

Cool, glad its helpful – I will work on making it into a downloadable PDF 🙂

Can we get India train tickets from you?

From me? No, I’m not a travel agent so I can’t use my account to book for other people sorry.

The easiest way is to ask http://www.indiasomeday.com they can book train tickets for you for a small commission. I’ve travelled with them before see more here – http://www.global-gallivanting.com/my-review-of-traveling-with-india-someday/

hope this helps you 🙂

Good to see your love for India and Indian Railways. The blog is surely informative. However, you should be aware of the current updates of Indian Railways. To get updated info, keep a check on http://www.getpnrstatus.co.in

Thanks, glad its been useful

Hi Anna, what do you do about safety when needing to use the toilet if you are travelling solo? Do you have to take your day pack with you and have on your back? Could imagine it would be quite tricky sqatting on a moving train with a day pack on your back. I wouldn’t imagine it’s safe to leave it at your seat? Thanks

Hi Shani, normally I have my valuables in a smaller pack and take it with me to the toilet. I also keep my smaller bag on valuables under my head normally when I’m sleeping. They do have handles to hold on too while squatting on a moving train and they also have some western toilets. You can also bring a chain to chain your bag to the seat but I haven’t had a problem with theft on the train. Hope this helps 🙂 Happy Travels

Just had my 1 year visa approved, flights are now booked but I was dreading the IRCTC registration……… but using your detailed instructions and reading seat61.com I completedthe whole process and received verification codes in less than an hour. Thanks for a fab website Anna. Woohoo, India here I come 🙂

Awesome! So glad my blog helped! Hope you have a great trip!

Nice one you put ample information in your blog, also add this to solve the confusion about waiting list problem In Indian Railway.Thanks http://blog.railyatri.in/decoding-the-myths-about-remote-location-wait-list/

Great blog and awesome pictures indeed. Your tips and suggestions will be certainly useful for many foreign travellers who come to India and want to travel safely.

Thanks, glad its helpful

Great blog Anna,You know more than any other citizens of India.These information are very useful for people using railways.If possible kindly include info regarding dustbins in Indian railways.Many people don’t know that there is a dust bin present in every compartment,It is located below the wash basin. Thanks,

Thanks Laxmikant 🙂

Hi Anna Love your website! We are planning to visit India for the first time this October November and found your fantastic website. You give such amazing all-round advice – superb! We would like to travel mostly by train, so your train piece is just what we need. However, most of the photos don’t come up, especially the ones inside the different compartments. I have tried in several countries and with many different providers, so it might be an instruction problem on your side. Would love to see them, so could you please check this out. Thank you so much for an exceptional website. Kindest regards Crystal and Joerg

Nice Article!!! Thanks for sharing such a amazing article with us, keep it up more.

Ive been travelling in indian trains since i was 1 year old (because i’m from india ) . I dont know why i still half your article .

Nice Blog !! It is a complete guide to the travelers especially foreigners. Food is also a major issue in India while traveling on a train. Call 07827998877 or visit traveler food website to order your food on your seat.

[…] by train in India is the best experience! I will not talk about the many kinds of tickets because other bloggers already covered this topic. But I advise you to book your train tickets in […]

Train travel in India can be an overwhelming experience. It takes meticulous planning ahead of time. We were uniquely blessed to be easily able to travel the complex and far flung vast expanses of perhaps the third largest railroad system in the world. Arguably the most used railway system as well. Without going into detail I can tell you confidently, that it was absolutely splendid! In contrast to that luxury, we also traveled on all four gauges (narrow, meter, broad and standard gauges) of the vast Indian Railways on every known classification. On some stretches the four gauges ran within and concurrently. I don’t know of any other place on the planet where that is so common over long stretches, lol!

The sound of the tracks and bewitching alpine horns as well as the archaic whistle on some old hobbies is etched in my mind. Some of the best quality REM deep sleep I’ve ever experienced was in those wonderful trips. The scenery was exquisite. Whether it was rumbling through megalopolis urban centers or the tranquil expanses of the country side (a veritable diaspora of green farmland, to the dense and foreboding jungles to the serene expanses of the many ocean beaches, the landscape was haunting. Aside from all these we also enjoyed being unhooked from the train next to a private cove with a pond or lake to camp out at. Stuff of dreams that would easily be the envy of many. Uncommon and common experiences to cherish forever.

I have to say I’m compelled to agree, it’s an !incredible !India!

[…] think nothing of jumping on a train and backpacking India alone but that’s because I’ve been here for a while, I’ve heard […]

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How to book trains in India

Nov 30, 2011 • 3 min read

Travelling on an Indian train is a reason to travel all by itself. India ’s rail network is one of the world’s most extensive and the prices are very reasonable. Bookings open 90 days before departure and seats fill up quickly – an estimated 17 to 20 million people travel by train in India every day. So if you have a route mapped out and dates locked in, you can book your train tickets before you even arrive in the country. Here’s the lowdown on how to do it.

Booking tickets

Booking online is the easiest way to buy train tickets. The railway reservation system is open from 1.30am to 11.30pm every day (IST) so keep this in mind when trying to book online, particularly if you are abroad. The following websites all issue e-tickets, which are valid for train travel. You may have to show your passport as ID along with the printout of your booking reference when you are on the train. The following websites all accept international credit cards.

• Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Limited : Set up by the Ministry of Railways, you can book regular trains as well as tourist trains such as the Deccan Odyssey.
• Cleartrip : An excellent, easy to use and reliable website that charges a small fee (₹20) on top of the regular ticket price.
• Make My Trip : Similar to Cleartrip with very good reports from travellers.

Image of Shimla Railway Station by Miran Rijavic

Reserving a seat

You must make a reservation for all chaircar, sleeper, and 1AC, 2AC and 3AC carriages (check out the glossary below for more details). No reservations are required for general (2nd-class) compartments. Bookings are strongly recommended for all overnight journeys and if you plan on travelling during Indian holidays or festivals.

Some pointers about trains and classes

• Trains and seats come in a variety of classes and not all classes are available on every train.
• Express and mail trains usually have general (2nd class) compartments with unreserved seating and more comfortable compartments that you can reserve.
• Shatabdi express trains are same-day services with seating only, in AC Chair and Executive Chair cars.
• Rajdhani express trains are long-distance overnight services between Delhi and state capitals with a choice of 1AC, 2AC, 3AC and 2nd class.
• New to the rails are eight women-only trains, which service New Delhi , Mumbai , Chennai and Kolkata .
• Some cities also have suburban train networks, but these are very crowded during peak hours.
• In the higher sleeper categories bedding is provided but it doesn’t hurt to bring your own.
• In all classes, a padlock and a length of chain are useful for securing your luggage to the baggage racks.

Image of station in Chennai by   seeveeaar

When to use a rail pass

The IndRail Pass permits unlimited rail travel for the period of its validity, but it offers limited savings and you must still make reservations. Passes are available for one to 90 days of travel. The easiest way to book these is through the IndRail pass agency in your home country. They can also book any necessary train reservations for you. Overseas travel agencies and station ticket offices in major Indian cities also sell the pass – click here for further details, including prices. Note: there’s no refund for either lost or partially used tickets.

Image of a sleeper carriage by stevehicks

Air-Conditioned First Class (1AC) : The most expensive class of train travel; two-or four-berth compartments with locking doors and meals included.

Air-Conditioned 2-Tier (2AC) : Two-tier berths arranged in groups of four and two in an open-plan carriage. The bunks convert to seats by day and there are curtains for some semblance of privacy.

Air-Conditioned 3-Tier (3AC) : Three-tier berths arranged in groups of six in an open-plan carriage; no curtains.

AC Executive Chair : Comfortable, reclining chairs and plenty of space; usually found on Shatabdi express trains.

Sleeper Class : Open plan carriages with three-tier bunks and no AC; but the open windows afford great views.

Unreserved 2nd Class : Wooden or plastic seats and a lot of people – but cheap!

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• Indian Railways 🚆

Indian Railways

• Popular Routes
• Schedule and Timetable

About Indian Railways

Company information.

Indian Railway is the government-owned national railway system. Together with its subsidiary, Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation, or IRCTC, which handles the catering, tourism and online ticketing operations, the Indian Ministry of Railways operates the world's fourth largest railway network.

Experiencing the bustle of Indian railway stations is a quintessentially Indian experience and your trip across the country will not be complete without taking an Indian train.

Currently there are no high-speed trains in the country but by 2022 about 100 Indian Railway new trains will be added to the rolling stock to increase the speed of services.

Indian Railway Network

18 zones and 73 divisions of Indian Railways cover every corner of the country except its northernmost tip with about 6,800 stations served. The total length of the rail routes reaches almost 70,000 km.

Some of the most popular railway routes include… From Delhi to:

To Delhi from:

• from Mysore to Chennai
• from Jaipur to Agra
• from Chennai to Thiruvananthapuram

Indian Railway luxury trains

Besides usual passenger transportation, special tourist trains of the Indian Railway service popular tourist circuits across the country. Offered by IRCTC, there are combo packages for such routes that include rail travel and local transportation plus accommodation, food and guided tours.

These luxury tourist trains offer a 5-star hotel comfort with a variety of top-notch facilities available on-board.

India’s most celebrated luxury train is The Palace on Wheels that makes an 8 day-7 night circular trip around Rajasthan starting and terminating it in New Delhi.

Other luxury trains of India include:

• Royal Rajasthan on Wheels covers destinations in Rajasthan.
• Maharajas Express is a seasonal train, which runs on 5 different routes.
• Deccan Odyssey brings visitors to Maharashtra and Goa.
• Golden Chariot offers two routes in Indian South.
• Fairy Queen hauled by the world’s oldest operating steam engine, connects Delhi to Alwar.
• Buddhist Circuit Train, or Mahaparinirvan Express caters for Buddhist pilgrims.

Indian Railway Schedule

The complete Indian Railway timetable can be found on the official IR website. For destination-specific information and availability of rail service please do revert to our website. There is also a very handy tool for checking IR train cancellations and rescheduling. Called ‘National Train Enquiry System’ (NTES), it features a train tracker and allows to check seat availability, too.

IR trains – what to expect

There are three classes of AC sleeper carriages, or Indian Railway berth carriages.

The first class (AC1 or A1) is obviously the best choice with its two- or four-berth compartments.

Second class AC sleeper carriages are also ok with an open planning and four berths in each bay.

Third class AC features 6 berths per bay and is also open-plan.

SL, or Sleeper Class does not have AC and often becomes overcrowded. It is also open-plan with 6 bunks per bay. It is cheap and provides better opportunities for photos as windows can be opened here. Bedding is not provided even on longer routes.

There are 3 Chair Classes with Executive Chair Class (EC) with soft reclining seats and AC being the top choice though you will not find this class on every train.

CC, or standard AC Chair Class is a good choice for daytime journeys.

2S, or Second Class Seats are not recommended for long or overnight routes.

Indian Railway Fares and Tickets

Rail travel in India is wonderfully affordable and often more time-effective on longer routes than taking a plane.

Indian Railway reservation opens 120 days prior to the departure date for longer routes and 15–30 days in advance – for shorter routes.

Similarly, these are the time limits for Indian Railways online ticket booking.

Indian trains often do become fully booked weeks before departure date so it is highly recommended to reserve your berth or seat as early as possible.

Tatkal tickets

If you fail to book your ticket in advance there is still a chance to get a last-moment deal.

The system that allows passengers to grab tickets on trains which are fully booked long before the departure date is called ‘tatkal’.

Meaning ‘immediate’ in Hindu, Tatkal booking system opens at 10 am the day before travel. It basically means that Tatkal ticket booking time and period vary depending on the departure time of your train and can be from 14 hours to almost 38 hours before the actual departure.

There is a small amount of seats and berths reserved for Tatkal tickets on many popular trains. Tatkal ticket price is slightly higher than a standard fare.

Train tickets booking in India

Indian railway tickets can be booked online or if you are already in India bought at the stations.

For online ticket booking, your options include both the official Indian Railways booking website, or IRCTC, and private agencies.

The first option gives you full access to all the trains, Tourist Quotas, Reservations Against Cancellations, Wait lists and Tatkal booking. On the negative side is the necessity to go through a rather complicated registration process.

The second option costs slightly more but considering that Indian train tickets do not cost much, it is a minor issue. Also, such ticketing agencies, including us, neither sell RAC tickets nor put you on waitlists – all tickets booked are booked and confirmed. With this option, Indian Railway online booking is an easy and fast process.

Indian Railways connect all major and many of the minor destinations across the country. Basically, you can travel between almost any two destinations in India by train.

Indian railway tickets are very affordable.

Indian train booking system is unique and may seem too complex with its Tourist quota, Reservations Against Cancellations, Wait lists and Tatkal but nevertheless efficient.

Travelling by train in India is the best way to get glimpses of the real local life and mingle with the locals.

In many cases, if you want to travel in an AC sleeper carriage, you need to reserve much in advance.

Carriages of cheaper classes even with reserved berths or seats (SL and second class seats) may become overcrowded.

Cleanliness of toilets is often an issue in cheaper classes.

Indian Railways Popular Routes

Indian railways schedule & timetable, indian railways stations, indian railways company reviews.

TRAIN TRAVEL IN INDIA – EVERYTHING TRAVELLERS NEED TO KNOW.

Train travel in India has got to be one of the best experiences of journeying the subcontinent. Nothing quite beats sitting by a window, fresh chai in hand, enjoying the scenes of life that pass by. But, the Indian railways system is renowned for being overly complex and sometimes  complicated – so we’re here to help set you up with everything you need to know to enjoy travelling by train in India to the full! 

This post contains compensated  affiliate links, please find out more in our disclosure . Thank you for supporting Soul Travel!

How to Master Indian Train Travel for Foreign Visitors

I tend to subscribe to the belief that you haven’t been to India (let alone experienced India), until you’ve taken a long ride on Indian Railways. The view of this beautiful country is best from a bunk in an overnight train sleeper coach, watching the landscapes roll by and chatting to new-found friends.

There are few better feelings on a journey around India than sitting at a window seat, masala chai in hand, simply watching the varied landscapes of India change, merge and blend before your eyes, or standing near a train doorway early in the morning after an overnight journey feeling the cool fresh breeze on your face.

Travelling by train in India is safe, efficient, comfortable (depending on which class you pick – read below!) and our number one way to get around India. Head over here for some of our must-not-miss favourite train journeys in India !

The third largest employer in the world, mover of 25 million passengers ever day, and owner of the longest railway platform in the word (amongst other trivia), travelling by Indian Railways is an experience not to be missed during your trip to India. 

Train travel in India is many things: But being ‘turn-up-and-go’ is definitely not one of them, and especially not for foreigners travelling in India (although fortunately this is changing – more below). 

Good things come to those who persevere, however and I truly believe that you won’t regret the time and effort put into planning your Indian train journeys. Many Indians depend on train travel to get around the country and the railways are still referred to as India’s lifeline. Given that a population of 1.2 billion people depend on them to get around, you can begin understand why the ticketing system is a little complex. 

Over my trips to India and living here over the last seven years I’ve learnt a lot about how to travel by Indian railways – by trial as much as by error – so much so that locals seem to come up to me on station platforms and ask me for directions! I’m happy to share all my tips with you in this post, along with how train travel in India has changed post Covid-19 .

Planning Train Travel in India 

The first step towards planning your trip to India is working out an approximate itinerary .

This doesn’t mean you have to book all your hotels etc, but do have an idea of which places you want to go to and how long you will have in each place. This will help you pin down which dates you need your Indian Railways tickets for so that you can start to look into specific trains.

You may then need to re-orgnise your itinerary based on availability of trains, or which places are well connected to each other by rail (for example – Jaipur and Udaipur are well connected by train, but there’s no train from Udaipur to Jodhpur (or vice versa). 

The most important point is that you want to book your trains as early as possible – they open up for sale 120 days in advance and ideally you want to be booking your train tickets for your Indian rail journeys 3-4 months out if you can,  especially  if there are holidays such as Christmas, New Year, Diwali etc occurring around that time. 

Not all trains run every day. Some express trains run only certain days of the week. When researching trains you might find information like the below: 

Here you can see some of the many trains that run from Varanasi to Delhi, which days of the week they run on (letters are for days of the week), how long they take and which classes they have. If you want to research train options between cities, a google search will bring up plenty of sites with this info such as indiarailinfo.com. 

Types of Train in India

There are many different types of train in India – even for long distances and know upfront that  not all trains are equal.  Some trains move at twice the speed of others, calling at 20% of the stations. Depending on which train you choose, a journey between two places can take five hours or ten hours – so be careful with which train you book! 

Here are some of the main types of trains that you may come across during your travels in India: 

Overnight Trains:

• Rajdhani Express – The RollsRoyce of Indian express trains (ok, well maybe more like a Volkswagen). These are the fastest and most reliable intercity express trains that run between Delhi and state capitals. They’re a great way to get from Delhi – Mumbai or Delhi – Kolkata (or vice versa) quickly and comfortably. The Rajdhani’s always have priority on the tracks and meals are included on these trains. Rajdhanis are fully air conditioned, but don’t expect red carpets or chandeliers; the interiors are similar to any other air conditioned Indian Railways train. These are also the most expensive trains.  Recommended.
• Garib Rath  – Distinguishable by its olive green and mustard yellow outside livery, the Garib Rath is an all economy Air Conditioned express train, designed to be an affordable option for those who could not afford air conditioned train travel. Runs 1-2 times per week and there are several routes including south from Mumbai to Kerala (which we travelled on and found very comfortable).  Recommended.
• Duronto Express – Duronto means non-stop in Bengali, and these trains were introduced in 2009 as India’s first step towards high speed rail services. They were introduced to be point-to point services with no stops in between (although now some do stop it seems). Generally a great option for long distance travel.  Recommended.
• SuperFast Express  – Possibly the type of train you’ll find yourself on most for inter-city / town travel, sometimes all AC ( referred to as AC SuperFast), or sometimes a mix of Sleeper + AC Classes (SuperFast). These trains are relatively fast and a good way to travel. Recommended.
• Express – A step down from SuperFast Expresses (and indeed the Express name may be aspirational only) these trains tend to stop at more stations and take longer. Generally these are fine too, and may be your only option for less common routes, but are prone to more delays than the above categories of trains.
• Mail Trains / Passenger – the slowest trains, stopping at yet more stations, taking more time, and prone to more delays. Only recommended if this type of train is your only option. 

Daytime Trains:

• Tejas Express – A (relatively) new addition to train travel on selected routes in India, the Tejas Express trains are India’s latest high-speed train travel offering. These trains are new, modern, and are fully air conditioned with automatic closing doors and tv’s in the back of seats in Executive AC class. A novelty for travelling by train in India, but not recommended for those who relish the chance to sit by an open window or door. Given the high ticket price, these trains often have seats left when others are fully booked.
• Shatabdi Express  – These are daytime express trains with seating only (all the above trains have sleeper berths) and cover popular shorter routes like Delhi to Agra, Amritsar and Jaipur. These are good trains which usually run on time and we highly recommend them. All AC.  Recommended.
• Jan Shatabdi –  Like the Shatabdi trains above but with the addition of non-AC chair car class. Slightly slower and cheaper than Shatabdis.  Recommended.
• Local Trains –  These come in a range of forms to the local suburban trains of Mumbai and Kolkata, to state local trains which run between towns and usually offer “General” unreserved seating only. They are usually very busy in cities. Avoid these unless you really want to take the “scenic” route! 

If you want to travel as quickly as possible, research the fastest train for your route. In general the SuperFast trains sell out quickest, I’ve never had any problems getting a Rajdhani ticket, but the cost is about 30% higher than a SuperFast for the same route. 

Some trains are also famous for being late. I used not to believe this, until someone warned me about a particular train and it was 11 hours (yes you read that right) late. So I am now a member of the official India train geek society and check the average punctuality score for trains before booking them – Railyatri.in (another useful site for checking train routes and status) has an “on time score”!

How to Book Indian Railways Train Tickets

There are many ways to book your Indian train tickets. Here are some of the best options: 

Booking Indian Train Tickets From Overseas

This has always been much harder (and at times impossible) than booking Indian train tickets inside India. The issues include not having an Indian phone number, foreign credit cards not being accepted, and no access to the foreign tourist quota. Fortunately – times are a changing, and it’s now easier than it’s every been to nab your Indian train tickets before you even set foot in the motherland! 

Option #1 – The stress-free way with Raj from Train Ticket Please

I used to enjoy booking my own train tickets with my IRCTC account, but on my return to India in October 2021 after Covid, I found that I could no longer use my UK bank cards to pay for my tickets. Most other foreign travellers have reported the same issue, with foreign (non-Indian) bank cards from most countries being rejected.

Enter my saviour and agent, Raj, from Train Ticket Please, who now books all of my tickets, along with arranging ground transportation, domestic flights, drivers and guides. Raj books trains all over India for a small service cost, meaning you don’t have to spend out hours – or days – trying to work out how to register, create an account and book your own tickets on the Indian Railways website, and it’s just done for you!

If you’re short on time and want the least hassle, I recommend booking via him. Contact via Whatsapp: +91 89621 29008 or Email: [email protected] mentioning ‘SOUL TRAVEL’.

Option #2 – Do it yourself with 12Go.Asia

12Go.Asia is one of the leading platforms for booking transport in Asia, and is one of the only international websites to offer Indian train bookings  without having to register for an IRCTC account first.  Which makes it the easiest and quickest option for booking trains in India, and ideal for if you only want to take a couple of journeys / are only in India for a couple of weeks. They don’t have every single journey online yet, but they do have most of the ones you’d want to take as a visitor to India, between the main towns and cities. 

Search and Book Indian trains on 12go here!

How I suggest using 12Go.Asia for booking trains:  

• Conduct a general search on railyatri.in or indiarailinfo.com to check the trains running between your destinations
• Note the train number, station that they leave from and station they arrive at. Most cities have multiple stations and you need to enter the specific departure and arrival station to get the right train results. 
• While booking you can request your preference of upper or lower berth and normally there will be different classes available – see our notes below for recommendations on what to book. 
• Enter your details and pay by international credit card. Bookings are on a request basis so they are not confirmed until you receive the confirmation from 12go.Asia. There’s an option to let them know if you are flexible to travel a day before / after.  Search train journeys in India now ! 

Search & Book Popular Train Journeys in India on 12go

Jaisalmer –> Jodhpur

Jaipur –> Ajmer (Pushkar)

Delhi –> Jodhpur

Agra –> Jaipur

Delhi –> Agra

Mumbai –> Goa (Madgaon)

Goa –> Cochin (Ernakulam)

Delhi –> Varanasi

Delhi –> Haridwar (for Rishikesh)

Option #3 – Sign up for an IRCTC Account & (try to) Book Directly

This option is high risk if you don’t have access to an Indian bank card/credit card – you may go through all the steps to book tickets only to find that your payment cannot be accepted. If in doubt, use one of the previous 2 options.

As of 2022, sadly Cleartrip is no longer offering train bookings via your IRCTC account (which used to be my workaround).

This is the traditional way of booking train tickets and used to be possible, but is now unlikely to work with foreign cards, unless you get lucky. It’s a high investment of time with limited chance of success, so I urge you to use other options especially if it’s just for a couple of journeys. But, if you’re really determined and have Indian friends who are happy to let you use their payment cards, proceed as follows:

Step 1: Sign up for an IRCTC Account. 

The first step is to sign up for an IRCTC account . IRCTC stands for Indian Railways Catering & Tourism Cooperation and is the Government body that oversees all railways in India. As of November 2017 you can now get an IRCTC account with a foreign mobile number (include your country code when signing up). Unfortunately, the “OTP” (One Time Passcode) which is sent via SMS/Text and which you need to validate your account doesn’t always arrive to international numbers. If that happens, your best bet is to try to book with 12go.asia or email Raj at [email protected] as above quoting “Soul Travel”.

With your foreigner account you will also be able to book tickets from the  Foreigner Tourist Quota (more on what that is below) but note that that the quota is only available for 1AC and 2AC classes. Make a note of your ID and password somewhere safe as you’ll need it for whenever you make a booking! 

As a non-Indian national (using a foreign phone number to register) you will need to pay an activation fee of 100 Rupees after activation, on your first login to your account  before you’ll be able to make any bookings. 

There is now a maximum number of train bookings (single journeys) you can make per month per IRCTC id which is six . For additional bookings over six per month per person/ID you’ll need to use an agent or buy at the station. 

Step 2. Booking Tickets with an IRCTC Account on IRCTC website 

Once you have a validated IRCTC Account, you can log in, choose your train, class of travel and preferred bunk (upper / middle / lower – note that you’re not guaranteed to get it), etc.

Login, search for trains between your chosen destinations and preferred class of travel (we recommend searching for train options as above first so you can enter the exact start and end station).

Availability on trains opens up 120 days prior to departure. Many trains get booked up weeks if not months in advance, so this is where having an account well in advance helps. If your train is still available, simply book a confirmed ticket, note your booking number (called a PNR) and away you go! If not, read on…

Step 3. Things to know when booking tickets yourself on IRCTC

When searching for trains you might see statuses like “RAC” “Waitlist” and “Available”. Here’s what they mean: 

Available –  Pretty self explanatory –  you can book a ticket with a confirmed seat. Lucky you! 

RAC  – Reserved against Cancellation. Indian Railways know that not everyone will show up for their train, so they do what they can to make sure the train runs full and “overbook” using RAC tickets (similar to what airlines do really).

With an RAC ticket you CAN board the train  but you are not guaranteed a seat/berth number at the time of booking and may have to share a berth if everyone shows up for the train. Usually, as ticket quotas are released one day prior / up to four hours before the departure of the train, you will be allocated a berth. I have seen some cases where trains were full and some RAC passengers had to sit for long journeys sharing berths, but this is unusual and RAC passengers normally get berths fine.

You should board the class of travel that you paid for – ie if you booked an RAC ticket at the AC3 fare, you should board an AC3 coach. We advise booking RAC for the most popular class such as AC3 tier as there is normally much more of this on a train than say first class. You can see how many people are on RAC tickets already by the number given – eg RAC 23 means there are 23 people on RAC tickets already in front of you. Obviously, the lower the number the better your chances.

WL or Waitlist – That means your train is officially closed to guaranteed bookings. Once the general quota sells out for a train and all RAC tickets have been booked, the train moves on to Waitlist status. You can book a Waitlist ticket but that means you are not confirmed a place on the train and you cannot (officially…) board a train with a Waitlist ticket. 

See more on what we suggest you do if you are issued a Waitlist ticket below! 

Pin this for Later! 

Option #3 – Use a Local Travel Agent

I recommend Raj at Train Ticket Please ([email protected], quote “Soul Travel”), however you can also use other agents you find along your travels – such as through your accommodation, guide or through travel agents in tourist destinations. They will charge a small fee for booking tickets.

TIP: If going with travel agent shops in tourist destinations, check the price and availability of trains yourself on IRCTC first to know availability and pricing. It’s normal to pay a small fee (around 100rs) for booking, but be aware of agents trying to increase ticket prices, or trying to tell you to book first class tickets when there are lower classes available, if you don’t want them.

Travel agents have been known to claim that certain trains are full, or only have First Class tickets left in order to increase their revenue – which is why I recommend using Raj at Train Ticket Please (email above), 12go.asia, or another agent you know/trust.

Option #4 – Buy Your Ticket at a Railway Station in India

Once you are in India, you can turn up at any Railway Station in India and book trains in person (payment is by cash only).

Most Railway stations have someone who speaks English (at a smaller station, ask for the station manager) – and larger Railway stations have ticket windows that are dedicated to train bookings for foreigners. There is also a foreigner quota that is available only in person (or now on IRCTC too but only for certain classes and if you have registered with a foreign mobile number). Try and go to the station to book your tickets at the earliest chance possible, as the trains sell out. Beware anyone trying to point you away from the ticket office and towards their own travel agency (New Delhi is infamous for this!).

Logistics of Train Travel in India

You’ve booked your tickets, congrats! You’re half way there 😉

Now here’s how you go about making sure you get on your train.

To get to the right place on the right train you are going to need: Your train number, compartment number and berth number.

Example: 13015 (Train), B3 (Coach / “Bogie”), 23 (Berth).

How to Find your Platform 

Indian Railways stations vary hugely across the country – some have really great, clear signage and others hardly any. If you’re getting on your train at the start of the route, you should have some time, but if you’re getting on at an intermediate station, you need to make sure you are in the right place as trains are very long and at worst only stop for 2 minutes . 

Make a note of your Train Number (5 digits eg 13015)  as some stations will show trains by numbers rather than destinations. If there is no board with train departures (normally to be found in the main station entrance, waiting room, or on the Footbridge), you can ask the station manager or other railway official. Porters (who wear red shirts) are often a great source of information too – it can be worth paying them to carry your bags and get you to the right place. 

How to Find your Coach on the Train

Once you’ve found your platform, you need to find where to stand on your platform. THIS IS REALLY IMPORTANT as Indian trains are very long and you need to be in the right place. Normally you will see numbers along the platform on signs such as “10”, “11” etc. These do not correspond to the coach number but are indicators of where the different coaches will stop. Eg B2 may stop at 10, B3 may stop at 11 etc. In northern India I found that there are often electronic indicators along the platform (with red lights) indicating which coach will stop where. However in Southern India I didn’t see these, and there were only signs with (1, 2, 3 etc on). So you then need to work out which number your coach will stop by:

• There are usually announcements in the local language, Hindi, and in ENGLISH so listen out for those. 
• Ask a station official
• Use an app/the internet to check the train composition – google your train number + train composition (or use indiarailinfo.com – where the below screenshot is from) you should get something like the below which shows which number your coach stops by. Most of India’s railway stations now have free, super fast wifi courtesy of Google… 
• As a last resort, stand in the middle of the platform (not either end) and get ready to run as the train comes in! Each coach has a sign in the middle near the top with the coach number on it (eg A1, B2), plus you can easily see which coach are AC vs non AC by the sealed vs unsealed windows. 

How to Find out your Seat + Coach

If you booked a confirmed ticket, you will find your seat plus coach on the ticket. It will give you your coach (called “bogie” in Indian English) number (eg A1, B2, S1) and your seat / berth number (eg 56). 

Note that reservations charts are not finalised until 4 hours before the train departs from its starting point. 

If you are issued a waitlist ticket that then confirms, you can check your seat and coach number in two ways. The easiest way is to use an App (I use one called “Confirmtkt”) where you enter your “PNR” (your ticket number) and it will return you your ticket status, coach and seat/berth number.

You can also send a text message from your mobile phone to 139 with just your PNR (ticket number) on it, and you’ll get an auto reply which looks something like this. Again, this can change up to 4 hours prior to departure, when charting is done, so the best time to do this is within 4 hours of departure of your train. You should get a reply that looks something like this, telling you your coach and berth/seat number.

Classes of Travel on Indian Trains

Train travel in India is famous for having a total of 9 different classes of travel. Worry not though, you won’t have a choice of all 9 on any given train. The choices are essentially First Class / 1AC, 2AC (Two-Tier AC), 3AC (Three-Tier AC), and Sleeper (Non AC). Classes like 2nd (non AC chair cars) or General Class are not recommended for long journeys and are very basic. On Shatabdi express trains there are also Chair Cars (CC – Air Conditioned) and Executive Chair Cars (EC – First Class Air Conditioned).

The main difference between the Air Conditioned Sleeper Classes (from what I’ve experienced – trains can be different) are as follows:

First (1AC) gets you a locking compartment with 2 or 4 of you. It’s not possible to choose the 2 or 4, it’s down to pot luck on the day. Slightly thicker pillows are included but apart from the locking compartment door the rest is the same as 2 or 3AC – in that toilets and washbasins are at the end of of each coach. First is not particularly fancy and costs double the price of 2AC. I was not a fan of my one and only experience in first, mainly as I ended up in a compartment of snorers ( you can read about that one here ).  

On some special Radjhani Express trains, meals are included. It can however be a good option if waiting lists on all other classes are very long and you need to get somewhere. It’s also the class that Indian Ministers and important persons tend to travel. So if you fancy some networking…

2AC  / Two Tier AC (Recommended).  The layout is open plan within the coach and comes with bays of 2 bunks opposite 2 bunks, and a further 2 sideways against the side of the coach. The main advantage of 2AC is that the upper bunk is less high (as the bunks are only 2 high vs the 3 high in 3AC) and there are curtains around each bay of bunks (not individual bunks unless you get the side bunks) to provide some privacy. Bedding (sheet, blanket and pillow) is provided. Toilets are at the end of each coach.

Tip – In 2AC my favourite bunk is side upper. You have a curtain giving you perfect privacy! 

3AC  / Three Tier AC (Recommended).  Same open plan layout as 2AC but with 3 bunks facing 3 (so the top one is a bit of a climb), and there are no curtains. This is the class I travelled in for 90% of my train journeys and I found it to be comfortable. (Solo) women should try and get the top bunk . Bedding is included and it’s pretty clean. In all Air Conditioned classes the windows are of course sealed against the dirt which keeps them warmer in winter / cooler in summer and cleaner.

Tip – In 3AC I always go for the top bunk as for women that is the best option. However it can get pretty chilly as you’re right next to the fan! I recommend bringing an extra scarf or hoodie to help keep you cosy. It’s also quite high up so not recommended if you don’t feel comfortable doing a few acrobatics to get up/down. Unlike in 2AC I don’t recommend the side bunks for single women as everyone gets to have a good look at you as they walk up/down the train.

3 Tier Economy AC / 3E (NOT Recommended). As of 2022, a new sub-type of 3 tier AC has started being introduced, known as 3-Tier AC Economy, 3 Economy, or 3E. This is intended to allow more people to travel in AC classes at a lower price point, however is very cramped and not recommended as it’s more cramped than 3 tier AC (already a lot of people) and more cramped than non AC sleeper (see below. 3E class basically fits in an extra set of berths in each coach compared to   the other classes.

Sleeper (Non AC Sleeper) is basically the same layout of 3AC, but a third of the price, and a lot dirtier. Windows are open so the coaches get hot in summer and cold in winter. Bedding is not provided so bring your own. Everyone warned me about not going in Sleeper class as a foreigner (especially as a solo female). I don’t take sleeper for overnight journeys, however I have taken it for daytime journeys, for which it can be fine and is certainly much better for photography as the windows can be opened. Sleeper can be very hot/cold depending on season. If it’s your first time in India then I recommend starting off in the AC Classes and not sleeper.

Another reason to stay out of (non-AC) sleeper class is that it is subsidised by the Indian government to keep costs low for those who struggle to pay for sleeper class and long-distance railway travel. Sleeper class is hugely in demand and oversubscribed, so for these reasons too I suggest visitors should purchase higher classes of travel, leaving more room in sleeper for those who need it.

2nd Class & General Class  – AVOID these unless you are going for a short hop without your luggage and really want to travel backpacker style. These are coaches with wooden benches for sitting which can be fine in winter for a short journey – I’ve travelled in Goa & Kerala in 2nd Class (which is divided between reserved and un-reserved) for 1-2 hour journeys but definitely wouldn’t attempt it in summer or for longer.

General class is unreserved and can be truly appalling, especially in poorer states of India such as Uttar Pradesh. Anyone who does not have a confirmed reservation has to get in here – do NOT attempt this . (I’ve been in General class once for a 1 hour trip and those travelling in General class do not need tourists joining them, it’s crowded enough!)

What to do When your Train is Full (and all the others)

Worry not. Not just yet anyway. There are some options that do not involve flying or taking the bus to help you get a train ticket when your train (and all others) appear to be full.

Buy A Tatkal Ticket

Tatkal is the name of the service which is a quota of emergency travel tickets that is released at 10am the day before departure of the train for AC Classes (11am for non AC Classes). Make sure you get there ahead of time as there will be a queue! You (or your travel agent or other trusted envoy) need to be at the station before that time to get a spot in the line and fill out a form. You can then likely get a ticket for your desired train, albeit at an extra 30% of the normal price as a “Tatkal Premium”.

It used to be the case that Tatkal tickets could only be booked in person at the station but I have now done this several times via Cleartrip. It’s been really helpful and I’ve managed to get a number of train tickets this way, even though they ended up being a bit more expensive. 

Book a Waitlist Ticket

During my travels in India I’ve had several waitlist tickets, with most of them getting confirmed a few hours before the train left. Once a train is ‘full’ – i.e. standard non Tatkal tickets sold out – then the waitlist will open up and you can book a Waitlist ticket (see above). Then you have Waitlist spots 1 up to a few hundred depending on the popularity of the train. I’ve been on Waitlist 6 and had my spot confirmed, and even up to Waitlist 20. Last year I noticed that waitlists are getting longer and longer as it seems more tickets are being held back to Tatkal to help improve IRCTC’s revenue management…

Often, spots aren’t released until the day of travel (as how many waitlist spots will be confirmed is dependent not only on cancellations but how many tickets are sold in Tatkal (see above). So this can add some uncertainty to your journey.  If you need to travel on that day, it’s better to pay the extra for a confirmed Tatkal ticket.

At the latest, you will find out 4 hours before departure if your seats have been confirmed as this is when the reservation charts are finalised. 

Getting on a Train with a Waitlist Ticket

If you have an RAC ticket you can board the train. If you have a Waitlist Ticket that isn’t confirmed, you’re not allowed to…. But last year we were in that situation and needed to get to Goa on time!

When our tickets from Kerala to Goa were not confirmed we pondered what to do. Tatkal for the next day had already closed, so we decided our best chance was to try and get on the train anyway and negotiate once on board (we bought a “General” ticket from the ticket office before boarding)

We had booked 2AC tickets so we boarded the train at the 2AC compartment. Seeing as it was nighttime and we didn’t know which berths were unoccupied, we stood in the vestibule for a good hour before the TC (Ticket Checker – the one wearing a suit with a big pile of papers on a clipboard) appeared. Ravi then showed him our general tickets and told him of our plight (drawing on me as a clueless foreigner) and eventually we were given two nice berths in 2AC for the remainder of the journey. Seeing as our ticket had been refunded, we paid the TC in cash. Our TC was extremely kind and honest and took less than what we had spent on the original ticket, but normally you can expect to pay a little extra for this kind of “service” (we suggest you negotiate). 

So would I recommend this approach? Not necessarily. If I would have been travelling alone and without an Indian I would have felt pretty uncomfortable standing in the corridor with my luggage for so long, attracting a few looks. You may also encounter unscrupulous Ticket Checkers who will demand a big payment as technically speaking, you are boarding the train without a valid ticket for that class. However, if you really need to be somewhere and don’t mind chancing it, this could be your best bet! Also, you’re not depriving anyone of their seat this way, you’ll only be given a berth if one is empty (so there is a small chance you might have to stand!). 

Get Creative with your “From” Station!

On queueing up to buy a Tatkal ticket from Bikaner to Haridwar, a friendly local stepped in to enquire where I wanted to go. Suspecting “come to my travel agency” stories, I told him anyway and he suggested that I didn’t need to pay extra for a Tatkal ticket, but I could instead buy a ticket from a place called Luni in Rajasthan but “getting on at Bikaner”.

Luni was a small station in the middle of nowhere that not many people travelled from, before Bikaner on the line. But because there are quotas from each station that a train calls at, there were still standard price tickets for sale to my destination as opposed to paying several hundred rupees extra for Tatkal. The ticket office sold this to me without questioning and the ticket inspector on the train seemed quite happy. You can only buy tickets with a different “getting on point” in person.

Safety Tips for Travel on Indian Railways

One of the questions we are asked most often by travellers visiting India is if travelling by train is safe. The straightforward answer: YES! 

The longer answer: Yes train travel in India is generally very safe and most travellers have good experiences. Indian Railways generally has a good safety record and there are always police / guards on each train should you ever need help. The Railways Minister is also incredibly reactive on twitter! They can be reached at @RailMinIndia

There are a couple of things to be aware of to help make your journey even safer: 

• The main scams around rail travel are around ticketing. Famously, several travel agents pretend to be the “official foreign tourist ticket office” at New Delhi Railway station (ignore them), and touts have been known to single out tourists on platforms, ask for their train # or ticket and then tell them that their train has been cancelled, their ticket is not valid. Sometimes the scams are elaborate but they all revolve around trying to get you to buy a new ticket through them. Just ignore people who approach you at stations – the official ticket checkers will be walking through the trains once you are on and you’ll see all passengers showing their ticket. 
• Train travel in India is safe for solo women, but we recommend you get the top bunk whenever you can for some additional privacy and make sure you are well covered while sleeping – no shorts, vest tops and you can forget the idea of changing into your silk pyjamas… 
• Doors are often open during train journeys – this makes for great photo opportunities but please be careful. Trains go fast and often pass next to poles on the track so do not lean out far or while the train is travelling at speed – hold on at all times if you do stand in the doorway. 
• I’ve read a lot of advice saying to bring a padlock and chain for your luggage, but have personally never used this. I always make sure to keep my small day pack on my top bunk with me (i use it as a pillow, but have also had to leave it unattended on my top bunk when needing the washroom) and keep my main bag with clothes etc down under the seat. I use a cross body purse which never leaves my person with passport, phone and money in. If your bag is full of valuables or you are feeling especially worried about your belongings then by all means bring a padlock and chain. If travelling non-ac sleeper, I’d probably use a chain as sleeper gets more crowded. 

Dispelling Myths about India Train Travel 

Travelling by train in India gets a lot of attention and interest, unsurprisingly! But there are a few myths out there that we’d like to dispel 🙂 

• Not all Indian Trains are late. It’s true that trains can and do run late, but for us that has been the exception rather than the rule. In general if you book the better trains and follow our advice, you’d be unlucky to experience several late trains. 
• People don’t sit on the roof of trains in India. This used to be the case, but back in the 80s and 90s. Indian trains actually travel pretty fast – you’ll see that it would be pretty much impossible to stay on top! 
• Not everybody is out to get you on Indian trains. Many articles warn against leaving your luggage unlocked, keeping your eyes out, not moving without your hand sanitiser, not touching the food, etc etc. Fine, there have been cases where people have had things stolen or got sick, but the overwhelming majority of experiences on Indian trains are good! 

Got an additional myth we should add to this list? Let us know your India train stories in the comments below!

What to Pack for Train Travel in India

I recommend a few essentials that will help make your train trips in India more comfortable! 

• Headphones. Sometimes you just want to retreat to yourself – you don’t need fancy headphones, your regular ones will do fine! 
• An Eyemask – People are often switching lights on and off, so one of these will help you sleep, although personally when I travel alone in the train I don’t use one as I want to be able to see what’s going on if I need to quickly. 
• Hand Sanitiser – Toilets don’t always have soap so this is a must
• A Sleeping Sheet /  Sleeping Bag Liner – If you’re in AC Classes on Sleeper Trains, sheets, a pillow and a blanket are provided. The sheets are usually very clean (they are boil washed after each trip), but if you like to have something of your own that feels familiar to sleep in, we recommend bringing one along. 
• A Power Pack – power points are few and far between on the overnight trains, with most passengers vying to charge their phones! Bring a power pack and make sure it’s charged before your journey (so your phone doesn’t die before your alarm for your stop! 😉 )
• A secure cross-body bag  (purse) to keep your valuables (passport, phone, money) on you at all times.
• A good book! Phone and internet coverage can be spotty, and after a while you may run out of things to talk about. Train journeys are a great time to catch up on reading. 

More India Train Travel Tips! 

Food on Indian Trains – You can eat some amazing food on Indian trains! Food vendors generally get on and off trains with local specialities according to the region you are travelling through, but are remarkably unpredictable as to when they’ll appear, so it’s best to bring some of your own snacks, too. Multiple chai wallahs can walk down the coach in quick succession, only to vanish again for another few hours. Some trains also have pantry cars and food is sold by catering staff walking up and down the train.

The best chai and food is usually sold by vendors getting on the train at stations. Expect samosas in northern India, vada pav in Maharashtra, idli in south India, and wherever you go, there’s always plenty of staple ‘train biryani’.

Many foreigners are reluctant to eat train-food – with different advice being given out about whether it’s a sensible decision to eat or not. Personally I’ve eaten it many many times and had no stomach issues, but if you’ve just arrived in India or have a sensitive tum, you can give it a miss. I recommend you take provisions with you in case there’s not food around when you’re hungry 🙂 

You can even order food to your seat now, too using various services – pick a restaurant you like at an upcoming station and tuck in! 

Make sure you Wake Up for your Stop! 

Don’t expect anyone to come and wake you up for your stop – set an alarm and keep it where you can hear it – as the railway staff don’t wake people up, and you need to be at the door waiting for your stop if it’s a station where the train only stops for a couple of minutes.

The Indian (Squat) Toilets are Usually Cleaner…

In most coaches there’s a choice between “western” and Indian toilets. I usually always go for the Indian squat variety as they tend to be cleaner! The Western style ones tend to have dirty footprints on the seat (go figure). Toilet paper is not provided so if you’re not happy with water, bring tissues (these go straight on to the track unfortunately so use water if you can). I recommend bringing hand sanitiser or liquid soap too as the soap often seems to run out or was never there to begin with…

Stay up to date with the status of your ticket (and train). 

Train punctuality is getting better – the days of trains being 10 hours late (such as I’ve experienced a few years back) are mostly gone. More common is for trains to get an hour or two late, often in winter due to fog in north India, or during monsoon when there’s heavy rains. You can check the ‘running status’ of your train on this website. If a train says it’s about an hour late, it’s best still to go to the station on time, as trains often make up late time in the middle of their route.

Plan the rest of your Journey

Due to the long distances, trains often arrive or leave in the middle of the night or the early hours of the morning. Whenever this happens I recommend having pre-arranged transportation / a pickup waiting for you to/from your hotel – we definitely don’t recommend taking a rickshaw in the middle of the night to solo travellers. You can give your train number to anyone picking you up to keep on track if your train is delayed 🙂 . 

Chat with your  neighbours!

My favourite place for making new friends in India… is on long train journeys! There’s not much to do and locals are often curious about foreigners travelling – many love to speak English with foreigners and you’ll learn so much about travel habits and culture in English through engaging in friendly conversation.

Remember it’s about the Journey, not the Destination. 

One thing’s for sure if you travel by train in India – you’ll go back home with stories to tell. Train travel can be hot, crowded, delayed, but it can also be the most wonderful way to experience this beautiful country, meet its people and experience all of India’s perfect contradictions. So relax, go with the flow and watch scenes of India unfold!

India Train Travel FAQ’s

Can i book train tickets as a foreigner outside of india how.

Yes! There are a couple of options. You can either register for an IRCTC account with a foreign mobile number and buy tickets directly there, or the much easier option is to book tickets directly here online . 12go offer the most popular routes in India and accept foreign credit cards with no need to create an Indian Railways account. See our “How to book tickets” section above in the guide for full details.

What’s the Best Class to Travel on Indian Trains?

Should i eat the food on indian trains.

Many travellers (including us) eat food on Indian trains and have absolutely no problems, while others have got sick or upset stomachs. If you’ve just arrived in India and haven’t got used to the food yet, we recommend taking it easy and bringing food from your hotel / a restaurant for the journey. Otherwise, tuck in!

Is it true that Indian Railways are Always Late?

On my first trip to India, someone told me that the lateness of trains is measured not in hours but quarter, half or full day late! There’s no denying that some trains do get (very) delayed in India, but i’ve found this to be the exception not the rule. Many trains run on time, especially the higher-tier express trains. Fog can cause delays in northern India during winter months, whereas monsoon rains in southern India can cause delays and cancellations too. Just ensure you have some extra food for your journey and leave plenty of buffer time in your planning.

Is Train Travel in India safe for (solo) Women?

Have you travelled in India by train? Got extra tips to share from your experiences? Let us know in the comments below!

Planning (solo) female travel by train in India? Read my safe train travel tips for women here!

Read More about Travel in India on Soul Travel: 

First Time India: How to Prepare and What to Expect

Agra Travel Guide – Experiencing Agra Beyond the Taj

What to Wear in India  

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The Ultimate Guide to Train Travel in India.

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Train travel in India – feared, fabled, the holy grail, and a rite of passage. You cannot travel to India and not take a train. Well, you can, in fact, I have done it more than once but I actually still believe it is part of the experience and makes for a well-rounded India journey. 

My experience with train travel in India was limited to one very luxurious trip with the Maharajas Express until recently. Unfortunately, this experience did not fall in the ‘very affordable’ category and is definitely not part of the everyday traveler’s journey or budget. 

During my most recent trip, I wanted to conquer the art of train travel in India. Apparently, even the ticketing process would be arduous and to be honest, Lion was still fresh on my mind and those trains did not look comfortable. But there was something in me craving an adventure and also telling myself that it surely couldn’t be that hard. Turns out it really wasn’t and I spent 2 weeks zigzagging my way through Rajasthan by train. 

What did I learn and how does train travel in India work? All the answers in this post. 

The ins & outs of train travel in India

Table of contents:

• Why travel by train in India?  

How to book a ticket for a train in India?

Seat reservations & how do i find my seat, how long to book your indian train ticket in advance , classes of the indian railway.

• General safety & Tips for women traveling by train

Can I buy food on the train? 

Why travel by train in india .

First of all, it is hard to avoid traveling by train in India. Trains are the transport mode no. 1 and the Indian Railway network is the third biggest in the world. Train travel in India ranges from dirt cheap to very affordable. That said, with a tourist budget you can probably also afford a personal driver for a few days but still, it won’t be as cheap as taking the train. 

I also think trains are more comfortable especially when you are covering a long distance overnight. And unlike German trains, Indian trains run a lot more on time than you would think. 

Ultimately I think train travel in India is part of the culture and thus should be part of your experience when coming to India. If only to master the art of peeing on a moving train or sharing a meal with a local family you just met. 

First things first: you will need a train ticket in India before you board. If you don’t mind winging it you can get it at the station but – and I cannot stress this enough – Indian train tickets sell out fast and far in advance. So chances are you won’t get one at the station on short notice. There are also plenty of little travel agencies all around where you can get your ticket from. 

Personally, I prefer buying it online because I like to plan and suss out all the options and best trains, and compare prices… you get my drift. Even if you are not as much of a planner as I am, getting your tickets online is ideal because you can already sort out your travel arrangements when you are not even in India yet. 

As a foreigner you currently have 2 options to buy your train ticket online: via 12go or on the website of the IRCTC (Indian Railway Catering and Tourism Corporation Ltd.). I tried both and they each have their advantages and disadvantages, I will walk you through the process.

Booking a train ticket with IRCTC

The website of the IRCTC is a little bit infamous as it can be a bit confusing for first-timers. But honestly, once you have your account and know how things run, it is not so bad. 

To book tickets you will need to create an account and verify your phone number and your email address. In order to do that as a foreigner you will need to use your credit card to pay a small amount (I think it was 110 ₹ so less than $1,50 ) for the verification. Once this is done you can start booking your tickets. I had to attempt this a couple of times so don’t be dismayed if it doesn’t immediately work.

Afterward, the system is pretty straightforward – put in your departure station and where you want to go, date, how many people traveling, and if you want to use a specific quota (quotas are explained below). Once you have hit ‘search’ you will get your results and you can still narrow it down from here. You can for example enter a maximum travel time, and specific train types as well as narrow down your stations. This can be useful if you are traveling to or from big cities like Delhi that will have more than one station far apart.

Once you have found the train you want you select the class and afterward you can book your ticket if the class you want is still available for your travel date. These tickets will show AVL for available . During the next step, you will put in your details including your passport number, and choose the seat/bunk you would like. Then you are ready to pay for your ticket and yes, you can just use your international credit card. 

What happens if no tickets are available for your preferred train? Then you have the option to go for a RAC ticket or get on the waitlist. RAC stands for Reservation Against Cancellation . With this ticket, you can definitely get on the train but won’t have an assigned seat yet. These tickets basically rely on the fact that there will always be last-minute cancellations or no-shows. 

In the worst-case scenario, you can opt for a waitlisted ticket. This will show a number like WL10/WL5 . The first number tells you the original length of the waitlist, and the second number your current spot so this one will change. Note that you can only travel if your waitlisted ticket either changes to RAC or CNF for confirmed . 

Booking a train ticket via 12go

12go is my favorite platform to book transport tickets in Asia. They are currently the only third-party platform that offers Indian train tickets. 

There are a few things to keep in mind when you book your Indian train ticket with 12go. First up: they only show you a select number of trains and only tickets that are still available. This is great if you don’t want to worry about RAC , WL or quotas. On the other hand it also limits your choices quite a bit, which can make things tricky especially if you are late with your booking. 

A definite plus are the payment options on 12go – you can easily pay with your credit card without a lenghty verification process but also use Pay Pal or Google Pay. But of course, you will have to pay a fee for the service. 

And, a little downside in my books – when you book with 12go you can’t choose your preferred seat/bunk yourself. 

As you can see both websites have their pros and cons, just try them both and see which one you prefer. 

After you’ve made a booking with either platform you will get your e-ticket. On the IRCTC site, you will get it instantly while it can take up to 24 hours with 12go. This ticket has all your information incl. the all-important PNR . This is the passenger name record and includes your name and details, train number, wagon, and seat. 

One of the most common questions: do I have a seat reservation when I get a ticket for a train in India? This question usually comes from a German as we are used to paying almost 5 Euro extra if we want a seat reservation. 

The good news is – yes, you will get a reserved seat with your train ticket in India unless you book 2GN class. If you have seen people hanging off trains in India and that scared you, fear not – this is not the norm and in most coaches, you will need a seat reservation and people adhere to them. 

If you book your ticket with 12go you will get your seat assigned. If you book your ticket through IRCTC you can choose where you want to sit. I like this option better because especially for the sleeper train I had specific ideas about where I wanted to sleep for safety and privacy reasons. 

Once you have your ticket you will see it mentioning your PNR as well as the train name and number, the status of your ticket (it should say CNF ), and something like A1/88 – this means your coach number is A1 and your seat number is 88. 

Download the Ixigo App and put in your PNR to check the status of your train (great to confirm whether it is on time or not) and to see the order of the coaches. Click on your coach in the app and you can see the seat figuration and find your seat. 

This chart is useful as you will already get an idea of where approximately your coach will be once the train arrives at the platform. On the platform you will see displays switching from the train number to the coach number all along. This way you will know where your coach will be when the train arrives and you can wait there. 

Note: If you have booked a first-class ticket you will not know your coach or your seat number until a few hours prior. I was told they put up charts at the station however I didn’t even need to check there as the Ixigo app showed my seat a few hours before departure. Alternatively you can send a message with your PNR to 139 on your phone and it will tell you the seat when the chart is ready. 

Indian trains are very popular and they sell out quickly. For most trains, ticket bookings open 120 days in advance. Chances are you may not be able to book your ticket quite as early but you also shouldn’t wait too long especially during holidays or in high season. 

If you are cutting it tight you can always use the Indian train quota. What’s that you ask? Well, basically Indian train tickets are sorted by categories, so-called quotas. Not everyone can buy from every quota. 

The main one is the GN – general quota . Those are the regular tickets that everyone can buy. As a tourist, you can also use the tourist quota . This is a small number of tickets for certain trains which can only be bought by tourists. You will need to have a valid international passport for buying those tickets. This can be a lifesaver if you are too late with buying a regular ticket but also comes with a caveat: tourist quota tickets are 1,5 x as much as normal tickets. 

By the way: as a tourist you can but don’t have to use the tourist quota. I bought all my tickets from the general quota. While I did get an error message once saying I needed to buy a tourist ticket after entering my passport information that was indeed an error – I simply tried again in a different browser and it worked. 

There is also a quota for women compartments, people with disabilities, and the infamous taktal . This can be helpful if you are super late with booking your tickets as this quota is only released a day before the departure of the train. However, these tickets also cost more, and sometimes the price is even increased based on demand. 

I traveled with a few different classes so I could report back to you. I did not, however, travel in the general class or sleeper class. I was told that these are fine for a shorter trip but since all my journeys were 5+ hours and I was traveling in Rajasthan during summer I didn’t want to be without aircon. 

You will see the price differences in the various classes with first class being the most expensive one, often costing double. But generally train travel in India is super cheap, especially when compared to trains in Germany (thanks, Deutsche Bahn). 

AC3 / 3A / 3E

This one is third-tier with aircon and at least for a day trip quite comfortable. When you travel overnight this turns into 3 bunks on top of each other – too little space for my liking. But during the day will share a bench between 3 travelers with 2 benches across and another one on the other side of the aisle. Chances are that some travelers will hop on the top bunk which means even more space for you. 

Just be aware that you won’t have an individual seat. I didn’t mind but I realized that Indians (or at least the ones I traveled with) have no problem extending their limbs beyond their allocated space (well, allocated in my German mind) and you may end up playing footsie with some. If you can’t fight them, join them… 

You will also get a sheet and a pillow even for your day trip if you like. I was told that sheets on Indian trains all get boiled and are thus quite clean and they are being handed out in a fresh paper package. 

CC stands for chair class the one that probably reminded me most of German regional trains. You will usually have 3+2 chairs per row and the seat in front of you has a little tray table. There are some rows where chairs face each other and you have a bigger table in the middle. And the seats will even recline a bit!

I thought this was by far the most comfortable class for the money I paid but I also got lucky (or tourist privilege, I am not sure) and got allocated a seat at a big table. 

EC stands for executive chair class and is the slightly fancier version of CC. You will get a 2+2 seat combo here and sometimes a meal and a drink are included in the price. 

I would definitely recommend CC or EC for a longer trip during the daytime. As far as I know, you won’t find both, CC and EC, on one train so you won’t have a choice but both are reasonably comfortable. They are nicer for a day trip than AC3 or AC2 as you will get a proper seat and won’t have to share a bench. 

I chose this second tier for my overnight trip from Jodphur to Delhi and I honestly thought it was the perfect choice. Unlike in first class, you are not alone in a compartment with a stranger but you are also not as cramped as in AC3. In AC2 there are only 2 bunks on top of each other in an open compartment. So you have 4 people facing each other on one side and 2 across the aisle.

I chose the aisle top bunk for safety and it was the perfect choice. I put my backpack underneath the bottom bunk and my hand luggage in my little nest, and while it was snug it was actually pretty comfortable too. You also get fresh sheets, a blanket, and a pillow and unlike AC3 you even have a curtain for more privacy. My top bunk also had a reading light and each bed/seat has its own outlet. 

I splurged on one first-class ticket to experience it and also to be as comfortable as possible on a long trip in the middle of the day. I expected it to be hot as hell and the least amount of people around me as possible for this sounded like a good idea at the time of booking. 

A day before my trip monsoon had started early so it was not hot but very wet instead. The train was running over an hour late, which I had luckily caught on the app so my wait at the train station in Ajmer wasn’t too long. 

The first class has individual compartments with either 2 or 4 berths. To put it nicely – it ain’t the Maharaja’s Express. And to be very real – I wanted to turn around and find a different seat back in cozy third class once I saw my compartment. 

Well, I moved all of the sheets on the top bunk, sanitized my hands vigorously, and settled in the window seat. Once we were on the way, someone came to take the used sheets and brought me new ones. And the conductor even knew my name. 

All in all, I don’t think ‘splurging’ on first class is worth it. It doesn’t seem cleaner or more comfortable than the rest, and personally, for an overnight trip, I prefer being in a shared compartment for safety reasons. I guess it is a nice option if you are traveling with your partner or friend and get a coupe for 2 people as you will have complete privacy.

If you are booking any AC compartment make sure to pack some warmer clothes – I was freezing twice, especially during my overnight trip, so bring layers.

This sleeper class is similar to AC3 minus a lot of amenities. If you want a local, authentic experience, go for it but you will have to make do without aircon, pillows, and sheets.

2S & GN

This is the official second class on Indian trains. 2S looked perfectly fine to me but again you will have to manage without aircon and open windows – that can be a hit or a miss but is usually fine for a shorter trip during the day. In 2S you will have a reserved seat unlike in GN – this general compartment is probably what you know from the movies. Since there are no reserved seats these are often crowded and not something I would recommend. 

General safety & Tips for women traveling by train in India

The first time I came to India to see the Golden Triangle I was too scared to take the train. Instead, I asked my friend to organize a private driver for me, something that was still super affordable. Then came my trip with the Maharajas Express, obviously a very different kind of train experience than your average journey. But to be honest, it got me excited about train travel in India. 

Luckily, I had no issues whatsoever and everyone was really kind. From the driver who walked me to the platform to the young boy and his grandmother who wanted to share their food with me, people were nothing but helpful and lovely when traveling by train in India. 

Still, I understand that shit can happen and it is not always rainbows and roses. Here are some tips for everyone but women in particular when taking a train in India. 

Travel light

My number 1 tip for anyone traveling by train in India: travel light. I left my big suitcase at my friend’s house in Delhi so I had one big backpack and one smaller backpack I wore in front of me. Light enough to get on and off the train. My big backpack was squishy enough to fit under the seats. 

I also took a small shoulder purse with all my valuables to take to the loo. I would advise you to get a good lock for your luggage. I did not only not have one but my backpack also had a giant hole so a lock would’ve been useless. I got lucky even on my overnight trip but wouldn’t risk it again. My small backpack slept almost literally in my arms. 

Women’s seat

While some trains do have women’s only coaches I never bothered to look for those. I simply booked my seat in an aircon class and called it a day. You do specify gender when booking and apparently, the IRCTC will try to seat you next to other women if you are traveling alone. I was always seated amongst a mix of people. But if you are really nervous try to find a women’s compartment though I guess this will severly limit your options when searching for a train. 

Overnight travel

My biggest concern was my overnight trip from Jodphur to Delhi. I made sure to depart and arrive at a decent time and discussed with my Indian friend what class would be best to book. I decided on AC2 and chose a top bunk. While I could have gone for AC1 the idea of being stuck in a separate compartment with one or more strangers at night did not sit right with me. I prefered sleeping in an open compartment – safety in numbers.

And while I would have preferred the bottom bunk after my overnight train in Thailand because they are easier to get into and you have a window, I decided on the top bunk as it feels a bit safer. 

Toilets 

The less we say about the toilets on the train the better. Then again it was only just as bad as I imagined. There is usually a sqat and a western style toilet in each coach. While the squat toilets are definitely the more hygenic, I understand the creature comfort of a toilet you can sit on – espically on a moving train squatting is an art form. Whichever one you choose bring your own toilet paper and copious amounts of handsanatizer. You may need to hold your breath too – I am sorry!

Wear something not too flowy or pants that are too wide-legged as you will need to put all this fabric somewhere and you probably not want it on the floor. Do not under any circumstances wear a onsie. Yes, they are cute and you look awesome but now you will have to deal with so much extra fabric around your legs and you are also topless. 

Are you on your period? To be honest, I would avoid a trip long enough that you will need to empty your cup or change your tampon. While most train toilets have a small sink, it is really not the place you want to deal with this. 

Is there wifi on trains in India? 

No, they are not quite as fancy and there is no wifi on trains in India. However, I found that making a hotspot with my phone and using my 4G/5G data worked surprising well most of the time.

Are there charging points in the trains? 

Yes, there are charging points, at least in the AC3, AC2, CC, and AC1 class that I was traveling with. However, there is not a charging point for each seat available so you may have to take turns with your fellow travelers. 

If you have a very long trip ahead of you I recommend you pack a power bank for your phone. 

Are Indian trains on time? 

Honestly, I was impressed with how punctual the majority of my trains were. One was delayed by a total of 2 hours after the area was hit by heavy rains and flooding so that seemed like a good enough reason. 

To make sure you know if your train is either departing or arriving late you can check the Ixigo App which is not 100% reliable but pretty good. In general, it seems similar to flights: the earlier you depart the better your chances are for no delays building up over the course of the day. 

At the train station

To be honest, the only moments when I didn’t like traveling alone was at the train stations. There was no problem whatsoever but unfortunately, many people sleep on the platforms and beg, and I felt quite uncomfortable at times. I know first-world problems but still. 

I had two early morning trains departing at 6 am. I chose them because it wasn’t too hot yet early in the morning and I would have some more time to explore once I arrived. That said, I recommend you only take an early train from a station you have already been to. This way you will at least know your way around a little and not stand at the station like a deer in headlights. I left early from Jaipur and from Udaipur however, I had already seen both stations upon arrival and knew where to go. 

Also, don’t come too early so you don’t end up waiting too long. If your station is the first one chances are your train will arrive early too and you can already get on. When in doubt ask the station master for help!

In some cities auto and taxi drivers can get quite annoying once you exit the train station. In fact, in Jaipur, a driver started hassling me while I was still on the platform and approached me five times until I almost put my hand in his face to tell him off. If your accommodation provides this service ask them to organize a driver for you. Otherwise, check with them beforehand how much you should pay for an auto from the train station. Ultimately you will have to say yes to one of them and this way you will at least know a reasonable price. 

Beware of the moving train!

I was very surprised to see that open doors are quite normal for Indian trains when moving. For reasons unknown, because unlike Sri Lanka, no people are hanging out the doors (at least not in the coaches with reserved seats). And if a door isn’t open yet chances are a traveler will open it long before the train comes to a stop in the station. 

I stood back and was in awe the first few times I saw this happen. During my last journey, it was I who opened the door long before the station, feeling very daring and adventurous. Then my friend Joe brought me back to earth and told me to be careful – apparently, there are quite a few pickpockets who will approach slowly driving trains and unsuspecting travelers standing in the door to snatch their bags. 

Yes, you can buy food on a train in India! However, there is no designated dining car as such. Some fancy tickets will include a meal service though. In most trains, vendors will walk through who sell chai, bottled water, chocolate bars, chips, or prepackaged meals like biryani and even mini Domino’s pizza. You won’t really know your options before but you definitely won’t go hungry either. Prices are totally okay – a small cup of chai is 10 rupees and a pizza is 150 rupees. 

During longer stops in a specific station, vendors from this station will also get on to sell you food and snacks. During my trip to Pushkar, I couldn’t resist and got some samoosas. I think his probably not-so-clean fingers on my food should have been a giveaway but this samoosa did not sit well with me for the rest of the day. However, the dishes you buy on the train are usually neatly packed and looked very hygienic. 

The greatest invention and option to eat on a train in India is to pre-order your meal. There are a few apps and websites for this but I recommend the IRCTC Catering App . All you need to do is put in your PNR and the app will show you the route you are traveling and stops along the way where you can order food. Each stop usually has a few restaurant options. Pick a restaurant and order the food you would like. Depending on the restaurant you will either pay cash on delivery or can pre-pay with your credit card. Then you just need to get on your train, sit back, and wait for the magic to unfold. 

And honestly, it is pure magic to me how it all works out. Get a local SIM card so the delivery guy can contact you if needed. The restaurant has your seat number through your PNR so they bring the food straight to your place. Once you arrive at the station you ordered from someone will hop on the train and bring you your meal. If you still have to pay make sure to have small change. 

I ordered twice and the food was yummy and hot – I can highly recommend this service especially if you are a somewhat picky eater or don’t want to gamble with train samoosas. 

In the mood for a train trip through India now? Give it a go and let me know if you have any questions! 

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India Trains

Guide to train travel in india, buy india train tickets.

There are three options for foreign visitors buying train tickets in India:

• Buy a ticket at the train station.
• Buy a ticket online.
• Buy a ticket from a travel agent.

Buying train tickets in India is a difficult and at times frustrating endeavour and often paying a bit more money to get some assistance with the process is worth while.

Buy Tickets at the Station

There are International Tourist Bureaus at 11 major railway stations in India, along with a railway booking office at Delhi International Airport. International Tourists Bureaus are the best place for foreign visitors to buy tickets, they also sell Indiarail Passes which allow unlimited travel during a set period of time, although you still need to reserve your seat on a train before travelling. The 11 railway stations with International Tours Bureau are:

• Agra Cantonment Railway Station
• Ahmedabad Junction Railway Station
• Bangalore City Railway Station
• Chennai Central Railway Station
• Kolkata Railway Station
• Mumbai Central Station
• New Delhi Railway Station
• Jaipur Railway Station
• Jodhpur Junction railway station
• Secunderabad Junction Railway Station
• Varanasi Cantonment Railway Station

Buy Tickets Online

You can buy your India train tickets using the Search Box below:

Buy Tickets from an Agent

You will find travel agents all over India who will sell you train tickets for a marked up price, although the problem with waiting until you come to India to buy your train ticket is that it makes it difficult to secure seats on the best trains which often need booking a long time in advance. To overcome this problem you could consider using one of the Official Agents for Indian Railways based outside of India:

• Bahrain: Indian Airlines Ltd. M/s Dadabhai Travels, P.O Bo.387, Bahrain. Phone No: 00973223181. Fax No: 00973210191. E-mail: [email protected]
• Germany: M/s Asra Orient, Kaisertrasse 50, D-60329, Frankfurt/ AM, Main Germany. Phone No: 069253098. Fax No: 004969232045. E-mail: [email protected]
• Kuwait: Indian Airlines. AL. Hilaliah Bldg. Alsoor street.P.O.Box.594. Safat 13006. State of Kuwait. Phone No: 009652456700. Fax No: 009652434700.
• Malaysia: M/s city East West Travels, 23 Jalan Yapah Shak 50300, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Phone No: 0060326910903. Fax No: 0060326919829. E-mail: [email protected]
• Nepal: Orient Paradise Tours & Travels Pvt. Ltd. GSA of Indian Railway in Nepal,Chalkhal,Dillibazar, Kathmandu, Nepal. Phone No: 00977-1-4428462. Fax No: 00977-1-4437990. E-mail: [email protected]
• Oman: M/s National Travel and Tourism, P.O. Box 962, PC 113, Muttrah, Muscat, Sultanate-of-Oman. Phone No: 009685666046. Fax No: 00968566125. E-mail: [email protected]
• Sri Lanka: Indian Airlines Ltd. No. 4,Briston Complex, Bton Street,Columbo. Phone No: 00941323136. Fax No: 00941445534.
• U.A.E: M/s.Sharjah National Travels & Tourist Agency Pvt. Ltd. P.O. Box. 17 Sharjah U.A.E. Phone No: 0097165517468. Fax No: 0097165683535. E-mail: [email protected]
• UK: M/s S.D. Enterprises Ltd, 103, Wembley Park Drive, Wembley HA 98 HG, Midllx. U.K. Phone No: 001819033411. Fax No: 00442089030392. E-mail [email protected]

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Labour promises rail nationalisation within five years of coming to power

Party pledges to bring all passenger rail – but not rolling stock – into public ownership as contracts with train operators expire

• Analysis: Labour’s plans all but set up by Tory government

Labour will fully nationalise the train network within five years of coming to power, with a pledge to guarantee the cheapest fares as part of “the biggest reform of our railways for a generation”.

One of Labour’s first major acts in government will bring all passenger rail into national ownership under Great British Railways as contracts with private operators expire, a plan endorsed by the architect of the Conservatives’ own rail plan.

Labour will announce it plans to cut waste and claw back shareholder dividends, saving £2.2bn. It will establish a watchdog, the Passenger Standards Authority, to scrutinise the new system. Passengers will be offered best-price ticket guarantees, automatic delay repay and digital season tickets across the network.

In a speech on Thursday, the shadow transport secretary, Louise Haigh, will say renationalisation “is not going to be easy and it will take hard graft, but it will be my mission to get us to the right destination and to deliver for the Great British passenger”.

Labour insiders hailed the announcement as the moment the party would begin to champion its more radical proposals in the run-up to an election campaign, after a number of U-turns including over green investment.

They said Haigh’s plan was a key plank to counter the narrative that Labour had only meagre plans for reform, alongside policies on workers’ rights and planning.

“We will show we will make bold policy changes where the current settlement is failing,” a Labour source said. “But this is not just ideology, this is a detailed plan for reform.”

Haigh will bill rail reform as crucial to productivity and cost savings and to achieve Keir Starmer’s “five missions”, while criticising Conservative inaction.

“It is passengers who pay the price, through being stranded because of cancellations, through being unable to work as they travel because there’s no internet, through overcrowded and unpleasant trains,” she will say.

“And they also pay through the nose to prop up this failing system, with huge amounts wasted every year through today’s inefficient and fragmented rail network, and even more money leaking out to pay shareholder dividends.”

However, the plans do not include nationalisation of privately owned freight or rolling stock companies, which trade unions have called for but which would cost billions.

The party will argue that the public ownership plans will cost nothing in compensation to operators, who would transfer ownership once contracts expire, and save significant sums on bureaucracy and dividends to private operators.

Haigh, one of the most left-leaning remaining members of the shadow cabinet with close links to the unions, has been able to protect her renationalisation policy despite intense lobbying efforts to water it down.

The party’s new costings, shared with the Guardian, suggest full public ownership would save £2.2bn every year after five years, including the £1.5bn identified in the government’s own review from 2021 that said the simpler structure of Great British Railways would make operations cheaper.

Labour estimates that consolidating the 14 separate train operating companies (Tocs) could reduce additional waste worth up to £680m a year, including saving dividends to Tocs’ shareholders and eliminating bidding costs.

A range of rail industry figures welcomed Labour’s announcement, although private train firms were dismayed at confirmation that train operating contracts would be taken back into public hands as contracts expired.

That pledge was strongly backed by the leader of the train drivers’ union Aslef, which on Tuesday announced a fresh set of strikes. Mick Whelan, its general secretary, said: “The commitment delivers for the economy, for the taxpayer, for passengers and for staff,” adding that privatisation had “allowed a few companies to make enormous profits, which have taken much-needed money out of the sector”.

Keith Williams, who co-wrote the Conservative government’s Williams-Shapps plan for rail after the 2018 timetabling fiasco, said Labour’s plan would follow through on the “substance” of his recommendations to the government.

“Running a better railway and driving revenue and reducing costs will deliver economic growth, jobs and housing by delivering better connectivity,” Williams said.

Labour underlined that it would not extend renationalisation to the ownership of the actual trains, as urged by unions including the RMT, by publicising an endorsement by Mary Grant, the highly paid chief executive of the rolling stock leasing firm Porterbrook. She said it welcomed “the party’s commitment to leverage private capital to help deliver its long-term strategy for rolling stock”.

The pledge to make railways reform an early priority was welcomed by Darren Caplan, the chief executive of the Railway Industry Association, which represents suppliers. He said: “[It] would give certainty to our members about the future structure of the railway industry.”

Private train operators, however, argued that nationalisation was “a political rather than a practical solution which will increase costs over time”. Andy Bagnall, the chief executive of Rail Partners, which represents Tocs, said the kind of contract model used by Transport for London’s rail network or Manchester’s buses was the “best of both worlds”, adding: “Ejecting private train companies from the railway will create a prolonged and messy transition at a time when we need all parts of the railway to pull together.”

A Labour source dismissed that proposal, saying: “We are making the case for a simplified railway. It saves a huge amount of money, waste and duplication. We don’t have to replicate the worst elements of the franchise model with none of the benefits.”

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