a trip to chinatown

Musical of the Month: A Trip To Chinatown

Cover of souvenir program, November 9, 1892 (MWEZ + nc 25,015)

A quiz for musical theater fans: Name a musical, set at the close of the 19th century, in which two young men deceive a crotchety old man in order to escape his oversight and seek love and adventure in the big city. The young men, together with their female romantic partners and a romantically available widow, go to a fancy restaurant where, through a somewhat improbable chain of events, the old man is also present and expecting to meet a potential romantic partner himself. A scuffle breaks out at the restaurant, and at the conclusion of the scene the old man is left with a bill for the whole party — which he cannot pay because he has lost his wallet. The musical was extremely popular and played a record-breaking number of performances in New York.

Hello Dolly! would be an obvious answer. However, the description above applies equally accurately to June's musical of the month: the 1891 hit A Trip to Chinatown. Of course, Hello Dolly! was explicitly based on the 1955 Thornton Wilder play "The Matchmaker," which was in turn based on the 1842 Austrian musical, "Einen Jux will er sich machen" (which was, itself, based on a 1835 play, "A Day Well Spent" by British opera librettist John Oxenford) As happens more often than we champions of the musical theater genre might like to admit, originality sometimes seems to have been inversely proportional to popularity.

Charles Hale Hoyt, Digital ID 99807

To be fair, Charles Hoyt, bookwriter of A Trip to Chinatown, made no great artistic claims for his play. As was his custom, Hoyt included a self-deprecating note on the Broadway program that read: "In extenuation: The author begs to say that whatever this play may be, it is all that is claimed for it." Hoyt could well afford to be so dismissive of his work; he knew it would make no difference to his audience. Although his later personal life was plagued with tragedy (including the death of two wives and a child in the course of five years), Hoyt enjoyed an extremely successful career as a playwright. A Trip to Chinatown, for instance, ran for a record-breaking 657 performances; Hoyt knew what entertained, and seems to have very rarely allowed artistic high-mindedness get in the way of his providing it to his audiences.

Regular readers of this blog may note that after the relative integration of music and plot in last month's Naughty Marietta and April's The Pink Lady , A Trip To Chinatown, hearkens back to the early musicals covered in this series for which the songs were more or less interchangable parts — able to be dropped, added, or replaced as popular tastes changed. Indeed, the text at the Museum of the City of New York that is transcribed below does not contain any lyrics at all but rather stage directions that suggest the placement of a number. Although the songs listed in the program during the original New York seem to have remained relatively constant, and the 3rd act number, "On the Bowery" (with lyrics by Hoyt and music by Percy Gaunt) became closely identified with the show, later productions freely interpolated new music. The immensely popular waltz song, "After the Ball," perhaps best known to musical theater fans for it's later inclusion in Show Boat , was interpolated into A Trip To Chinatown soon after it was written.

In 1912, Florenz Ziegfeld produced a new, somewhat less commercially successful version of A Trip to Chinatown , retitled "The Winsome Widow."[ 1 ] True to Ziegfeld's form, the production seems to have been a spectacular extravanganza with many specialty numbers (one review mentioned an ice-skating number), but, perhaps counter-intuitively, the songs appear to have been more tightly integrated into the plot than in Hoyt's original play. A Winsome Widow opened the Moulin Rouge, New York and ran for 172 performances during the summer season—quite a bit fewer than A Trip To Chinatown but also not a strikingly short run for the period. Ethan Mordden called the show a "hit"; Kurt Ganzl described it as "a singular flop." I have been unable to locate any financial information about the run, but the contemporaneous reviews suggest it was critically received as something in between. Regardless, it is clear it enjoyed nothing like the success of A Trip to Chinatown .

Sheet music for The Winsome Widow, Digital ID g00c110_001

The history of musical theater is a complicated one. The popular narrative in the mid-to-late 20th century told a story of a steady evolution from spectacles with musical speciality numbers (like The Black Crook ) to popular operetta (like Naughty Marietta ) to shows like The Winsome Widow , Show Boat, and Oklahoma in which the songs (it has been argued) flow naturally out of the spoken dialogue (a form some have called the "integrated" musical). Recent historians have challenged this idea--arguing musicals as "integrated" as Oklahoma existed long before 1943, and some (most prominently the late Bruce Kirle) have questioned the often assumed superiority (or even reality) of a fixed score . This debate can be fascinating, but it is often relatively limited as many of musical theater texts written before Show Boat are not generally available. It is my hope that by providing access to the texts of the period of supposed transition between the "embryonic" Black Crook and the more "integrated" Show Boat ,this series allows the public to better understand what the "pre-Hammerstein" musical actually was, and to decide for themselves whether Hello Dolly! or A Trip to Chinatown is a better work of art, or if, as Hoyt vaguely requests in his program note, both should be taken for what they are and enjoyed according to the conventions of their own, different, forms.

A note on the text:

The following text was transcribed by Ann Fraistat from the a text held by the Museum of the City of New York which lacks lyrics. Given the frequency with which the music changed and the lack of clarity as to the exact placement of the songs, I have decided to preserve the integrity of the source text and not supply lyrics from other sources. However, I have transcribed the song list from the opening night program below with links to where period sheet music with lyrics may be found.

The Pretty Widow (Hoyt and Gaunt)

Out for a Racket (Gaunt)

Dorothy (Gavotte) (Gaunt)

["Dorothy" seems to have been quickly replaced by African Cantata— "Push Dem Clouds" (Gaunt) ]

Crisp Young Chaperone (Barton)

Burlesque of Italian Opera (Gaunt)

Medley (Arranged by Gaunt)

Whistling extraordinary: "The Waiting Maid" (Gaunt)

On the Bowery (Hoyt and Gaunt)

File type What it's for ePub eBook readers (except Kindle) Mobi Kindle PDF Adobe Acrobat HTML Web browsers Plain Text Just about anything TEI Digital Humanities Geeks

[ 1 ] There appears to be an annotated typescript copy of this libretto at the Museum of the City of New York. Although it is titled "A Trip to Chinatown," the songs in the libretto match those in a program for "The Winsome Widow" held by NYPL.

A Trip to Chinatown (film)

A Trip to Chinatown is a 1926 American silent comedy film produced and distributed by the Fox Film Corporation and starring Margaret Livingston and Earle Foxe . The supporting cast includes Anna May Wong and Charles Farrell . The movie was scripted by Beatrice Van from Charles Hale Hoyt 's hit 1891 Broadway musical of the same name and directed by Robert P. Kerr . [1] [2]

Preservation

External links.

Livingston played the "Woman from the City" the following year in F. W. Murnau 's Sunrise: A Song of Two Humans , the rival to Farrell's future screen partner Janet Gaynor .

As described in a film magazine review, [3] Welland Strong is a young man who is told by his doctor that he has but a short time to live, so he gives away all his effects and goes to San Francisco to visit his rich and lively uncle Benjamin Strong. There he has many adventures which culminate in his agreeing to marry the widow Alicia Cuyer and in his learning that the period of his life is to be greatly extended.

• Margaret Livingston as Alicia Cuyer
• Earle Foxe as Welland Strong
• J. Farrell MacDonald as Benjamin Strong
• Anna May Wong as Ohati
• Harry Woods as Norman Blood
• Marie Astaire as Rose Blood
• Gladys McConnell as Marion Haste
• Charles Farrell as Gayne Wilder
• Hazel Howell as Henrietta Lott
• Wilson Benge as Slavin
• George Kuwa as Tulung

With no prints of A Trip to Chinatown located in any film archives, [4] it is a lost film . [5]

• 1937 Fox vault fire

Related Research Articles

Margaret Livingston , sometimes credited as Marguerite Livingstone or Margaret Livingstone , was an American film actress and businesswoman during the silent film era. She is remembered today as "the Woman from the City" in F. W. Murnau's 1927 film Sunrise: A Song of Two Humans .

Enemies of Women is a 1923 American silent romantic drama film directed by Alan Crosland and starring Lionel Barrymore, Alma Rubens, Gladys Hulette, Pedro de Cordoba, and Paul Panzer. The film was produced by William Randolph Hearst through his Cosmopolitan Productions. Pre-fame actresses Clara Bow and Margaret Dumont have uncredited bit roles.

Earle Foxe was an American actor.

A Trip to Chinatown is a musical comedy in three acts by Charles H. Hoyt with music by Percy Gaunt and lyrics by Hoyt. In addition to the Gaunt and Hoyt score, many songs were interpolated into the score at one time or another during the run, as was fashionable for musicals of the era. The story concerns a widow who accidentally maneuvers several young suburban couples into a big city restaurant and brings romance to them and herself, as in Hello, Dolly!

The Dream Girl was a 1916 American silent drama film directed by Cecil B. DeMille. Based on an original story by DeMille writer Jeanie MacPherson, the film starred Mae Murray and Theodore Roberts. The film is now considered lost.

Upstream is a 1927 American comedy film directed by John Ford. A "backstage drama", the film is about a Shakespearean actor and a woman from a knife-throwing act. The film was considered to be a lost film, but in 2009 a print was discovered in the New Zealand Film Archive.

Bits of Life is a 1921 American film produced and directed by Marshall Neilan. The cast included Lon Chaney and Noah Beery, Sr. For her performance in this film, Anna May Wong received her first screen credit. It is notable as an early anthology film, comprising four short stories: “The Bad Samaritan” by Thomas McMorrow, “The Man Who Heard Everything” by Walter Trumbull, “Hop” by Hugh Wiley, and “The Intrigue” by Marshall Neilan. The four stories were unrelated, shot with different casts, by different directors, and at different times. The poster called the format "The Magazine Idea brought to the screen". The film's tagline was "The Social World! The Underworld! and San Francisco's Chinatown!".

The Rose of Blood is a 1917 American silent drama film directed by J. Gordon Edwards and starring Theda Bara. Based on the story "The Red Rose" by Ryszard Ordynski, the film was written by Bernard McConville. The Rose of Blood is now considered to be a lost film.

Disraeli (1921) is an American silent historical drama film directed by Henry Kolker and starring George Arliss. This film features Arliss's portrayal of Benjamin Disraeli. He had played the same role in the play Disraeli in 1911. Arliss also reprised this role in the 1929 sound film Disraeli .

Dinty is a 1920 American silent comedy drama film written by Marshall Neilan and John McDermott specifically for Wesley Barry, a young actor known for his freckled complexion. Prominent among the supporting players were Colleen Moore, Marjorie Daw, Pat O'Malley, and Noah Beery.

Slaves of Beauty is a 1927 American silent comedy drama film directed by John G. Blystone and starring Olive Tell, Holmes Herbert, Earle Foxe, Margaret Livingston, and future talent agent Sue Carol. The film was written by William M. Conselman from a story by Nina Wilcox Putnam entitled "The Grandflapper," edited by Margaret Clancey and photographed by L. William O'Connell, with intertitles by James Kevin McGuinness. The movie, released by the Fox Film Corporation, is a comedic send-up of the beauty salon industry with a running time of 60 minutes.

Peck's Bad Girl is a 1918 comedy film directed by Charles Giblyn, written by Tex Charwate, produced by Samuel Goldwyn, and starring Mabel Normand and Earle Foxe. The black and white silent film, in the style of the Peck's Bad Boy stories, was released by the Goldwyn Pictures Corporation in 35mm on September 2, 1918. The picture's running time is 50 minutes.

The Woman in Room 13 is a lost 1920 American silent mystery drama film directed by Frank Lloyd and starring Pauline Frederick. It was produced and distributed by Goldwyn Pictures and is based on a Broadway play of the same name, The Woman in Room 13 . The film was remade at Fox in 1932 as a talkie.

Jules of the Strong Heart is a lost 1918 American silent drama film directed by Donald Crisp and written by William Merriam Rouse, Frank X. Finnegan' and Harvey F. Thew. The film stars George Beban, Helen Jerome Eddy, Charles Ogle, Raymond Hatton, Guy Oliver, and Ernest Joy. The film was released on January 14, 1918, by Paramount Pictures.

The Cradle is a 1922 American silent drama film directed by Paul Powell and written by Olga Printzlau. The film stars Ethel Clayton, Charles Meredith, Mary Jane Irving, Anna Lehr, Walter McGrail, and Adele Farrington. The film was released on March 4, 1922, by Paramount Pictures.

The Bachelor Daddy is a lost 1922 American silent comedy film directed by Alfred E. Green and written by Edward Peple and Olga Printzlau. The film stars Thomas Meighan, Leatrice Joy, Maude Wayne, Adele Farrington, J. Farrell MacDonald, Larry Wheat, and Peaches Jackson. The film was released on April 29, 1922, by Paramount Pictures.

Innocence is a 1923 American silent drama film directed by Edward J. Le Saint and starring Anna Q. Nilsson. The film was produced and distributed by Columbia Pictures.

Wages for Wives is a 1925 American silent comedy film directed by Frank Borzage and starring Jacqueline Logan, Creighton Hale, Earle Foxe, ZaSu Pitts, Claude Gillingwater, and David Butler. The film was released by Fox Film Corporation on December 15, 1925.

Fifth Avenue is a lost 1926 American silent drama film directed by Robert G. Vignola and starring Marguerite De La Motte, Allan Forrest, and Louise Dresser.

The Wheel is a 1925 American silent drama film directed by Victor Schertzinger and starring Margaret Livingston, Harrison Ford, and Claire Adams.

• ↑ The American Film Institute Catalog of Feature Films: A Trip to Chinatown
• ↑ Progressive Silent Film List: A Trip to Chinatown (1926) at silentera.com
• ↑ The Library of Congress / FIAF American Silent Feature Film Survival Database: A Trip to Chinatown
• ↑ A Trip to Chinatown at Lost Film Files: Lost Fox Film films - 1926 Archived December 8, 2015, at the Wayback Machine
• A Trip to Chinatown at IMDb
• Synopsis at AllMovie

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A Trip to Chinatown: The 1891 Musical Comedy: Complete Libretto Paperback – February 9, 2015

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• Print length 46 pages
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• Publication date February 9, 2015
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• Publisher ‏ : ‎ CreateSpace Independent Publishing Platform (February 9, 2015)
• Language ‏ : ‎ English
• Paperback ‏ : ‎ 46 pages
• ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1508419884
• ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1508419884
• Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 2.72 ounces
• Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.98 x 0.1 x 9.02 inches
• #34,949 in Dramas & Plays

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A Trip to Chinatown

Film details, cast & crew, robert p. kerr, margaret livingston, j. farrell macdonald, anna may wong, harry woods, technical specs.

Millionaire and hypochondriac Welland Strong is given only six months to live and decides to take a trip. Aboard a Pullman, he runs afoul of a jealous bridegroom who mistakenly believes that Strong has been making love to his wife. John then arrives in San Francisco's Chinatown. There he meets a charming widow, and the excitement of pursuing her cures him. In the end, he wins the widow.

Marie Astaire

Gladys mcconnell.

Charles Farrell

Hazel howell, wilson benge, george kuwa, william fox, horace hough, george e. marshall, barney mcgill, beatrice van.

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A Trip to Chinatown

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A trip to chinatown.

1926 Directed by Robert P. Kerr

A young hypochondriac who believes that he has only a week to live. His name, by the way, is Welland Strong. He decides to visit his uncle in the short amount of time he has left in the world. Eventually Strong winds up in Chinatown.

Earle Foxe Margaret Livingston J. Farrell MacDonald Anna May Wong Harry Woods Marie Astaire Gladys McConnell Charles Farrell Hazel Howell Wilson Benge George Kuwa

Director Director

Robert P. Kerr

Writer Writer

Beatrice Van

Original Writer Original Writer

Charles Hale Hoyt

Fox Film Corporation

Releases by Date

06 jun 1926, 30 jun 1926, releases by country.

• Theatrical NR

60 mins   More at IMDb TMDb Report this page

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• Travel Tips

The 8 Best Places to Eat, Drink, and Shop in Manhattan's Chinatown, According to Local Experts

Explore Chinatown through these expert picks.

Maremagnum/Getty Images

Manhattan’s Chinatown has become one of the most essential stops for travelers visiting New York City , usually in pursuit of delicious cheap eats and deals on clothes and souvenirs. But with one of the densest Asian immigrant populations in the country, the lower Manhattan neighborhood is, at its heart, so much more than a tourist destination.  “At the forefront, Chinatown is home,” Victoria Lee , co-founder of Welcome to Chinatown , a nonprofit focused on amplifying and supporting the neighborhood’s businesses for future generations, told Travel + Leisure . “It is the lifeline for hundreds of thousands of New Yorkers that live and work in the area. It has survived historical disasters including 9/11 and Hurricane Sandy. And while remnants of it are still visible, you will discover how the community has tackled adversity head-on. And in doing so, Chinatown has infused character that underscores why it significantly contributes to the cultural fabric of NYC.”

The community ties have grown even stronger facing recent challenges. “The COVID-19 pandemic , the subsequent rise of anti-Asian hate crimes , and the closure of longtime mom-and-pop shops have fueled Asian American youth to return to Manhattan’s Chinatown to start community initiatives, nonprofit organizations, and small businesses,” said Chloe Chan , who grew up spending her weekends in Chinatown and is now co-founder of Mott Street Girls , which runs food and history walking tours with a social perspective. After all, this is a community that has grown out of resistance , fueling its most meaningful sites. “It’s been truly amazing to see the proliferation of murals, community organizations such as Welcome to Chinatown and Send Chinatown Love , and Asian-owned small businesses like Yu and Me Books , Lanterne Candle Lab , and Pinklady Cheese Tart in the wake of the pandemic,” Chan told T+L. While the crowds may descend on popular eateries — think Nom Wah Tea Parlor , Golden Unicorn , Jing Fong , Vanessa’s Dumplings , Joe’s Shanghai , Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory , and Fay Da Bakery — we reached out to insiders for their picks on where to best experience the neighborhood beyond the trending destinations.

FUTURE LIGHT/Getty Images

Here, we highlight their top 8 must-visit spots when visiting Manhattan's Chinatown.

May Wah Fast Food

“This is a true hole-in-the-wall serving up comfort food that makes all of my worries melt away when I bite into the juicy chicken with bits of seasoned cabbage and white rice,” Lee said. “My mouth starts watering as soon as I place my order. I'm hypnotized by the staff methodically frying the chicken and pork chops until mine is finally assembled.” Also on the menu are pan-fried noodles, rice cakes, and noodle soup entrees.

Insider Tip: Order the chicken leg over rice with soy sauce egg.

Chang Lai Cheong Fun Cart

This Chinatown staple is easy to spot since the food cart always has a line of locals standing eagerly awaiting the food, “even when it’s raining or snowing,” said Priscilla Cheng, the executive director of Meals for Unity , a nonprofit dedicated to fighting food insecurity in Chinatown. And it’s easy to see why: specializing in the Cantonese snack cheong fun (rice noodle rolls), the stand serves up more than 20 combinations — like curry fish balls, tripe, and Asian seafood and veggies — that can be topped off with scallions, soy sauce, or peanut sauce.  Insider Tip: “Order A6 with rice noodle rolls, curry balls, beef tripe, spleen, and radish fish balls,” Cheng told T+L.

Taiwan Bear House

“This place serves authentic and essential Taiwanese cuisine from crispy chicken to lu rou fan ,” Cheng said of the establishment, which opened in 2015. While they offer Taiwan’s most influential specialty, boba tea, Taiwan Bear House is best known for its meal sets. Called bian dang , or a Taiwanese bento box, each comes with a featured entree and an assortment of side dishes, including a bed of rice, cabbage, and hard-boiled egg. “While Manhattan's Chinatown has a wide variety of Cantonese cuisine, it's nice to see more Taiwanese shops pop up,” she said.

Insider Tip:  Get the Taiwanese sausage or braised pork belly bian dang .

“Wok Wok is a hidden gem on Mott Street with a lot of Thai and Malaysian dishes,” said Mott Street Girls’ co-founder Anna Huang, whose connection to Chinatown was sparked by volunteering at a local history museum. The eatery serves up everything from popcorn basil chicken and grilled satay beef to rendang curry stews, stone rice bowls, and wok noodles, as well as items inspired by hawker street food. 

Insider Tip:  According to Huang, the roti and laksa are a must-try.

Sugarcane Daddy

Courtesy of Sugarcane Daddy

While bubble tea stores line the streets of Chinatown, this shop located in Nha Trang One restaurant offers an alternative refreshing cold drink. “Sugarcane Daddy is the only place to get freshly pressed sugarcane juice in Chinatown,” Chan told T+L. But the best part, she said, is that the owner Winsley Tsang sources his fresh fruit from street vendors in Chinatown, supporting the community all around. Insider Tip:  Don't skip the sugarcane juice with kumquat.

Ting’s Gift Shop

Opened in 1958, the lucky red storefront at the corner of Doyers and Pell is home to the oldest gift shop in Manhattan’s Chinatown. “It’s filled from floor to ceiling with unique souvenirs, including travel-sized mah-jongg sets, vintage jewelry, and embroidered silk qipaos ,” Chan said.  Insider Tip:  “Chopstick stands in the shape of cats and Chinese veggies are the perfect souvenir,” Chan told T+L.

Wing on Wo & Co.

Mischelle Moy/Courtesy of Wing on Wo & Co.

Wing on Wo & Co., founded in the 1890s is the neighborhood’s oldest continually operating shop, now run by its fifth generation. “It began as a general store, initially selling dried fish, canned goods, and other tastes of home for a growing community of Chinese immigrants,” Huang said. Now it’s best known for its porcelain since “it is one of the only stores in Manhattan that specializes in Chinese porcelain,” she added. Insider Tip: Consider the porcelain bowls, spoons, teacups, and jewelry.

Canal Body Work

Lee gave her partner a gift card to the massage therapy spot after a stressful day of work, and now he gets weekly massages there as part of his routine. “For anyone who will be exploring New York City this is a must-do after spending a lot of time on your feet,” she said.  Insider Tip:  Get a full-body massage.

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Related overviews.

Charles Hale Hoyt (1860—1900)

Julian Mitchell (1852—1926)

Hello, Dolly!

Madison Square Theatre

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A Trip to Chinatown

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(Madison Square Theatre 1891). A merry, madcap show that was one of the earliest and best musical comedies, the production ran 657 performances, a Broadway record for twenty-eight years. The ...

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Chinatown Neighborhood Guide

The Largest Chinese Settlement in the United States

TripSavvy / Brakethrough Media

If you're planning on visiting New York City this year, chances are you'll want to check out the bustling area of lower Manhattan known as Chinatown, a cultural cross-section of New York City and Chinese immigrant lifestyles that features a ton of great restaurants, cheap shops, and fine goods stores.

Since the late 1870s, Chinese immigrants have been settling in the New York City area, and despite the Exclusion Act of 1882, which prohibited Chinese immigration, the community and geography of Manhattan's Chinatown have grown steadily throughout the city's history. Since 1965, when the immigration quotas were repealed, the immigrant community of Chinatown has grown and the census of 1980 indicated that New York Chinatown is the largest Chinese American settlement in the United States.

The streets of Chinatown are great for wandering—there are fabulous stores for buying Asian groceries and goods (which make great souvenirs) and even the sometimes stinky seafood markets are worth a look. When you get hungry, there are many options for delicious, affordable food representing a wide variety of Chinese cuisines, including restaurants specializing in Dim Sum , Cantonese cuisine, congee, and seafood.

There is a very helpful Explore Chinatown Info Kiosk located on Canal at Walker & Baxter that's open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekdays and until 7 p.m. on weekends with bilingual staff available to answer your questions and provide free Chinatown maps, guides, and brochures.

Getting to Chinatown: Subways, Bus, or Walking

Chinatown in Manhattan extends east to west from Essex Street to Broadway Avenue and north to south from Grand Street to Henry Street and East Broadway, meaning there are a number of public transit options for accessing this Chinese-heavy settlement.

In terms of MTA trains, you can hop the 6, N, R, Q, or W trains to the Canal Street Station, the B or D trains to Grand Street Station, or the J, M, or Z trains to Canal & Centre Street or Chambers Street Stations and walk right out in the center of Chinatown's bustling streets.

Alternatively, you can take the M15 bus down 2nd Avenue to Chatham Square, the M102 and M101 south on Lexington Avenue to Bowery Street and Chatham Square, or the M6 bus that runs south on Broadway to Canal Street.

Driving or grabbing a cab or Uber/Lyft service is also an option, but keep in mind that cab fare can quickly add up when traveling to this busy section of Manhattan, so don't be surprised if you get stuck in slow-moving traffic—it might even be faster to walk at some points in time in the day, so don't fret if you have to tell the driver you'd rather be let out early and walk if you get stuck in slow-moving traffic.

Architecture, Tours, Restaurants, and Shops

Just south of Little Italy , the Chinatown area of Manhattan is full of amazing attractions, shops, restaurants, and even a few specialty tours to familiarize tourists with this unique neighborhood. Many buildings in Chinatown have Asian-inspired facades featuring pagodas and tiled roofs or are narrow tenement houses that create a bustling, slightly congested environment, and the Church of the Transfiguration and the Mahayana Buddhist Temple are among Chinatown's architectural gems.

A number of tours will help guide you through this neighborhood including "Explore Chinatown with Foods of New York," " Discover Chinatown with Enthusiastic Gourmet," " Immigrant New York with Big Onion Tours," and  walking tours with the Museum of Chinese in the Americas, many of which will take guests to some of the area's  best restaurants  and places to get ​Dim Sum, a Chinese staple.

Other attractions in the area include Chatham Square, Columbus Park, Five Points, ​the  Museum of the Chinese in the Americas , the First Shearith Israel Cemetery, and the Edward Mooney House, and you can find great food shopping at ​Kam Man Food Products,​ Chinatown Fish Markets, or one of the many other stores available on the ​ Chinatown Shopping Directory .

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20 Best Things to Do in Chinatown NYC (Written by a Local NYer!)

If you’re planning things to do in Chinatown NYC, you’re in the right place!

Chinatown Manhattan is part of the city that overflows with history, cultural character, and of course, enough good eats to make you want to return again and again.

To put together this guide, I’ve used my 20+ years of living in New York City. During that time, I’ve shopped, eaten, and strolled through Chinatown more times than I can count. It’s such a fascinating area that I’ve even done a few staycations there just so I could take more time to experience the neighborhood.

I hope you’ll use this guide not just as your what to do in Chinatown NYC checklist, but also as a window into discovering and savoring everything the neighborhood is about.

Ready to explore New York City’s Chinatown? Let’s go!

Where is Chinatown in NYC?

First, let’s take a moment to get positioned in the right part of New York City. If you visualize the island of Manhattan as a long oval-ish shape, Chinatown would be towards the bottom-right of that oval. More properly, Chinatown is on the lower east portion of the island. This would be diagonally opposite to a neighborhood like the Upper West Side .

Chinatown shares boundaries with other popular neighborhoods like Little Italy, Soho, Tribeca, and the Lower East Side. It’s also not far from areas like Nolita (North of Little Italy) and the Financial District.

Something really unique about this part of New York City is that you can actually see the dividing line between neighborhoods. Like on Mulberry Street, you can look in one direction and see Little Italy and turn the other way to see Chinatown!

Map of Chinatown NYC

On the NYC Chinatown map above, you’ll find all the places mentioned in this guide of the best things to do in Chinatown New York City.

As you can see, many of them are clustered around the small area that is the heart of Chinatown. Given how close many of these places are, the neighborhood can be explored in as little as a few hours depending on how many times you stop to eat!

Directions to Chinatown NYC

It’s really easy to take the subway to Chinatown NYC. Many trains run through the area.

Canal Street is a main street that runs from east to west across Manhattan. It slices directly through Chinatown, which is on Manhattan’s lower east section.

The best option is to take the N, Q, R, W, J, Z, or 6 train to the Canal Street stop. This brings you directly into Chinatown.

If you look at a map of the NYC subway, the N, Q, R, and W trains are the yellow lines. These trains make several stops through midtown, the theater district, Herald Square, Greenwich Village , and Soho. In fact, if you’ve taken the R or W train to Prince Street in Soho already, it’s easy to walk into Chinatown from there, as well.

The 6 train is indicated in green on the subway map. It runs along Manhattan’s east side. So for example, if you were near Grand Central Terminal visiting The Summit at One Vanderbilt , the 6 train would be a great option to hop down to Chinatown.

The J and Z trains might be helpful if you’re coming from Brooklyn, sightseeing in the financial district , or finishing a visit to the Statue of Liberty . This is the line shown in brown on the NYC subway map.

Another option is to take the B or D line to Grand Street. On the map, this is the line in orange. The Grand Street stop leaves you just 1 block from the Bowery and 2 blocks from where Canal Street meets the entrance to the Manhattan Bridge.

If you’re already in Lower Manhattan , it might be just a short walk to Chinatown. Particularly, if you were visiting the Brooklyn Bridge or shopping in Soho, you can get to Chinatown on foot in no time.

20 Best Things to Do in Chinatown NYC

On the list below, you’ll find everything from the best places to eat in Chinatown NYC, museums, historic streets, and iconic spots not to miss as you spend time in Chinatown on your very own self-guided tour!

1. Mott Street

Mott Street is the heart of Chinatown. It’s lined with Chinese restaurants and shops and adorned with lantern lighting overhead (like several other streets in Chinatown) that comes to life once the sky is dark.

During the day, Mott Street is a hive of activity during the day with residents shopping at the local markets for fish, fruits, and veggies. If you haven’t tried the fruit “rambutan,” I highly recommend it! It’s small-ish and round with a red/pink spiky exterior. (It’s not dragon fruit.) Just break the shell open with your fingers and eat the white fruit inside, watching out for a small pit.

Also, as you walk along Mott Street, stop to admire the Church of Transfiguration. It’s a historic stone church that dates back to 1801. This New York City Landmark has come through fire, near abandonment, neighborhood gang violence in the late 1800s and early 1900s, and waves of newcomers from Irish to Italian to Chinese immigrants living in the surrounding tenement buildings.

2. Nom Wah Tea Parlor

Serving up classic dim sum dishes for over 100 years, Nom Wah Tea Parlor is a historic icon in New York City’s Chinatown. It’s located on Doyer’s Street where you’ll often see a line of people waiting to get seated in one of the classic red booths. They do take some reservations for parties of 3-5 people so it’s worth a try to avoid the line. As you’d imagine, between 12 p.m.-2 p.m. and 6 p.m.-8 p.m. are the busiest times.

While it may not be the best dim sum in Chinatown NYC, the Nom Wah’s dim sum dishes are certainly delicious! Go for the scallion pancakes, shrimp rolls, pork buns, and their classic egg rolls. You can’t say you’ve experienced Chinatown in NYC until you’ve visited Nom Wah!

ProTip: While Nom Wah Tea Parlor has earned its place in Chinatown history, for Michelin-Star-rated Dim Sum, head to Dim Sum Go Go on East Broadway near the Kimlau Memorial Arch. The Cantonese-style dumplings, soups, rice rolls, and siu mai are the dishes to try!

3. Fried Dumpling

Located on tiny Mosco Street, Fried Dumpling’s unassuming storefront is easy to miss. But that would be a shame because it’s known for having some of the best dumplings in Chinatown NYC! It’s also one of the most delicious and cheapest bites you’ll find anywhere in New York City.

For just over $1 (cash only), you’ll get a made-to-order paper dish with 5 crispy dumplings. Dip them in the special soy sauce for a perfect snack at any point when you’re in the mood to nosh! (NYC slang meaning to snack on something.)

Take your dumplings and, if you can resist for just 1 moment, head to Columbus Park.

4. Columbus Park

When you visit a park in New York City, you get the opportunity to glimpse the daily life of the New Yorkers who live in that neighborhood. With few private outdoor spaces, public parks quickly become hives of activity.

Columbus Park is no different. Part outdoor activity space and part community gathering spot, it’s a window into Chinatown. On any given day, you’ll find kids playing basketball, tai chi classes in session, groups of people gathering to play mahjong, and musicians playing their jinghu (a bowed stringed instrument) on the park’s benches.

The rectangular-ish shaped park is located between Baxter and Mulberry Streets and Worth and Bayard Streets just steps from Fried Dumpling on Mosco Street. Grab some fried pork dumplings and savor them while people watching from a bench in Columbus Park!

5. The Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory

You might be wondering, ice cream ? I can get ice cream anywhere! Except here the local flavors are ones that are unique to Chinatown and the exotic flavors are chocolate and vanilla!

My recommendation is to stay away from the exotic flavors and go with Manhattan’s Chinatown favorites. My favorite flavor is don tot with its creamy egg custard taste, but people line up outside this Bayard Street storefront to get cones or cups of lychee, almond cookie, red bean, and black sesame ice cream!

And if you’re not sure which one to get, ask for a taste. They’ll happily give you a small spoonful to sample.

6. Mei Lei Wah Bakery

Just across the street from the Chinatown Ice Cream Factory on Bayard Street, don’t be surprised if you see a line of people waiting to order at Mei Lei Wah Bakery. Of all the bakeries in Chinatown NYC, it’s the most popular spot for pork buns and pineapple pork buns. Even better, it’s one of the cheapest treats you’ll find in all of NYC!

Don’t be put off by the line. It moves quickly. There’s a counter to order where it’s cash only, but also kiosks where you can order and pay with a credit card. The bakery is only open until 7:30 p.m. but it’s better to go earlier in the day anyway for fear the famed pork buns sell out!

7. Crown Rooftop Bar

Located on top of the Hotel 50 Bowery Hotel, the Crown Rooftop Bar has one of the best rooftop views of Manhattan. From its position on the 21st floor, you can see the Empire State Building and midtown skyscrapers to the north and One World Trade Center in the southwestern panorama.

What makes the views extra special here, though? You can see east to west from the Hudson River to a stunning view of the Manhattan Bridge arch and Colonnade. If you’re there for dusk, you’ll get the added effect of the red brake lights from the traffic pulsing across Canal Street.

The Crown opens at 5 p.m. during the week, and earlier in the afternoon on weekends. If you’re in NYC on a family trip, kids can get up to the indoor or outdoor terrace with a 21+ adult before 9 p.m. The Crown does serve small bites in addition to drinks.

8. Manhattan Bridge Arch & Colonnade

Built in 1915 on the Manhattan entryway of the bridge at the intersection of Canal Street and the Bowery, you might be a bit taken aback to find such a grand piece of architecture in this spot.

The Beaux-Arts arch and the columns on either side form a curving oval-like shape and include ornamental elements that include stone carvings, animals, and classical sculptures. While the Brooklyn Bridge may be New York’s most famous bridge (and my personal fave), the Manhattan Bridge and its entryway shouldn’t be missed on a trip to Chinatown!

If you have some time to spare, walk up onto the pedestrian walkway on the right side of the bridge. There are various points for taking photos of the NYC skyline including the “hole-in-the-fence” shot which looks back over Chinatown and has One World Trade Center in the distance.

If you decide to make the complete walk, you’ll end up walking just over a mile and getting to the trendy DUMBO neighborhood of Brooklyn, not far from the Brooklyn side of the Brooklyn Bridge.

9. Mahayana Buddhist Temple

This is the biggest Buddhist Temple in New York City with the biggest golden Buddha statue in the city, as well. It’s located just across from the Manhattan Bridge arched entryway and the Crown Rooftop so it’s easy to check a few things off your Chinatown list all within a single block.

Remember, this is a house of worship. The Temple asks that visitors be dressed modestly to enter.

In New York City’s Chinatown, finding delicious food isn’t an issue. There’s plenty to go around. It’s more about having enough space to taste everything you want to taste! And Wo Hop deserves some of that prized real estate. And in my humble opinion, Wo Hop has the best Chinese food in NYC’s Chinatown!

I’ll be totally honest and say that I have not eaten at every place in Chinatown. (However, I’ve certainly done a lot of homework!) Wo Hop is the best I’ve tasted, especially when it comes to classics like lo mein, dumplings, and main dishes in garlic or black bean sauce!

Wo Hop is a no-frills restaurant on Mott Street just past Mosco Street. The restaurant is actually on the basement level so you have to walk down a flight of stairs. Expect it to be busy! But trust me, waiting for a table is worth it.

Also, Wo Hop is cash only so be sure to have some on hand.

11. The Museum of Chinese in America

This museum houses a vast archive of Chinese history in America. Unfortunately, in January 2020, a fire destroyed the building where the museum was. Although the 85,000+ artifacts telling the stories of Chinese Americans were not burned, the majority of the collection was damaged by the water to put the fire out.

Restoration work continues even today to save precious pieces of history. The museum is in a temporary space on Centre Street between Howard and Grand Streets and has limited hours. However, if you’re in Chinatown on a Saturday, plan a little time to visit the museum. You can even opt to “sponsor an object” if you’d like to help with the restorations.

12. Doyers Street (Bloody Angle)

This uncharacteristically curved street in New York City has a notorious place in history. At the start of the 20th century, Doyers Street was the scene of many fights between rival Chinese gangs vying for territory. This is how it was nicknamed Bloody Angle.

Today, though, the street is painted and outdoor tables are clustered outside the street’s restaurants which include Nom Wah Tea Parlor and Tasty Hand Pulled Noodles.

13. Pell Street

When you turn onto Pell Street from Mott, your senses will tell you that you’ve left NYC. The signs are written in Chinese characters. Your nose can’t miss the smell of ginger, soy sauce, and garlic. Standing on Mott Street and looking down Pell, don’t miss the chance to snap a photo of this iconic street.

With New York’s Chinatown being spread out over many streets and other nearby neighborhoods bumping up against its borders, Pell Street feels as if you’re thoroughly entrenched in the Chinatown experience.

ProTip: If you walk to where Pell Street meets the Bowery, you’ll get the Edward Mooney House. The house, built in the late 1780s, is now a New York City landmark. Heads up, though! It’s recently been covered with scaffolding as work to repair and restore the house is ongoing.

14. Kimberly Spa

If your feet and body are sore from too much walking and sightseeing, a massage in Chinatown NYC is just the thing to soothe sore muscles.

Kimberly Spa is located just off Canal Street on Elizabeth Street. The word “spa” is a bit of a misnomer as the interior is basic with foot bath chairs and massage rooms divided by curtains. But, it’s the perfect respite from the busy city offering foot and body massages by fantastic masseurs at even better prices.

15. Canal Street Market

Located at 265 Canal St. near Lafayette Street, Canal Street Market is a food hall and retail space that fuses Lower Manhattan and Chinese culture with its carefully chosen vendors. The space isn’t very big so it won’t take long to walk and browse through the market.

Along the way, be sure to taste some wontons at Joe’s Noodles & Rice!

16. Joe’s Shanghai

Joe’s Shanghai is a popular spot in Chinatown famous for its soup dumplings, a dim sum essential. It’s what you’ll see the majority of people eating, so if you go, be sure to get yourself an order, too! These are different than regular dumplings or buns even if they look similar from the outside. Inside, they’re filled with hot soup and usually pork.

The Chinatown location is on the Bowery, just next to Hotel 50 Bowery and across from the Manhattan Bridge entrance. The restaurant is open until 10 p.m. which is late compared to other places in Chinatown and it’s not uncommon to find a line outside even well past a typical dinner hour. Bring cash because cards aren’t welcome.

17. Kimlau Memorial Arch

This monument is located in Chatham Square, just steps from where Mott and Doyers Streets end at the Bowery.

The arch is in honor of Chinese-American military veterans who died fighting in World War II. The monument gets its name from Second Lieutenant Benjamin Ralph Kimlau, an American fighter pilot who died during an attack against the Japanese close to New Guinea.

While a monument like this often isn’t the top reason you’d visit Chinatown, it’s good to understand its significance as you walk through the neighborhood.

18. Tasty Hand-Pulled Noodles

On Doyer’s Street a few storefronts down from Nom Wah Tea Parlor, you’re likely to find a hive of activity around Tasty Hand-Pulled Noodles. There are tables set up outside and an unassuming (cash-only) restaurant and kitchen inside serving up delicious pan-fried noodles.

Pulled noodles are made from wheat-based dough. As the name implies, the dough is pulled and stretched to make long noodles. They are cooked right after for a super fresh taste!

Go for the knife-cut/knife-peeled noodles pan-fried with your choice of vegetables and protein. The portions are generous but if you’re particularly peckish, order some dumplings, too. They’re also so tasty!

19. Ting’s Gift Shop

I couldn’t in good faith write a guide for Chinatown NYC and not include Ting’s Gift Shop! It’s a place I always stop by when I’m in the neighborhood. Perhaps it’s the teacher in me, but the store always reminds me of the trinket shop in Chinatown featured in the children’s book The Cricket in Times Square by George Selden.

The tiny shop is on the corner of Pell and Doyers Streets, just steps from Nom Wah Tea Parlor and Tasty Hand Pulled Noodles. It’s the perfect spot to pick up a souvenir or two, from painted chopsticks to card games to a handy back scratcher.

20. Mmuseumm on Cortlandt Street

On the fringes of Chinatown, in a wedge of New York dedicated to courthouses and government offices, you’ll come across NYC’s smallest museum, Mmuseumm. What you’ll find are curated, unusual objects from modern history meant to get you thinking. The entire museum is housed in something similar to a walk-in closet (also a rarity in NYC).

Mmuseumm is located at 4 Cortlandt Alley and is open only during warmer months, usually Spring to Fall. The visit doesn’t take long given its size but it’ll likely end up being one of the quirkiest and most interesting places you’ll visit near Chinatown.

Best Hotel in Chinatown NYC

Hotel 50 Bowery is a Hyatt property located just off Canal Street and across from the entrance to the Manhattan Bridge. The views, especially from the upper floor rooms, are spectacular. The hotel has a boutique flair that encompasses the culture of the neighborhood.

Compared to some hotel rooms you might find in Manhattan, Hotel 50 Bowery’s rooms are roomy and have an upscale feel. Hotel guests can also access the Crown Rooftop Bar by using the hotel’s elevators to have a drink or just enjoy the gorgeous city skyline views.

Wondering about staying directly in Chinatown? It wouldn’t be my first choice as a first-timer in New York City . Neighborhoods like midtown and Chelsea are the typical areas to stay.

However, not only is Chinatown and its subway stops accessible to move around the city, but you can also easily walk to other neighborhoods like Little Italy, Nolita, and Soho. If you’ve been to NYC previously and feel comfortable navigating the subway, Chinatown can be a good way to experience a different neighborhood while still being well-connected to other areas throughout the city.

Chinatown NYC FAQs

Is Chinatown safe?

Chinatown NYC is safe to walk around. During the day, the area is busy with residents, tourists, and traffic moving throughout the neighborhood. At night, Chinatown’s main streets, like Mott, Elizabeth, Pell, and Doyers have many restaurants open until 9 p.m. and some until 10 p.m. Keep in mind, in general, Chinatown is quieter at night. Markets and shops are mostly closed with a few exceptions.

Is Chinatown New York worth visiting?

Absolutely, yes! Chinatown in Manhattan is a vibrant cultural neighborhood with interesting history and fantastic food!

How long should I spend in Chinatown NYC?

You could easily walk through the neighborhood in just a couple of hours. However, if you plan to incorporate your own DIY foodie tour, stopping frequently to taste as you go, you’ll need more time. The same goes if you plan to get a massage or visit the Museum of Chinese in America.

Is Chinatown NYC cash only?

While there are places that accept credit cards, many shops, markets, and restaurants are cash only. If there’s 1 NYC neighborhood where it’s good to have cash on hand, it’s Chinatown.

What street should I shop on in Chinatown NYC?

Canal Street is the main street where most people look for shops and street vendors. In reality, you can find places throughout Chinatown to shop. Keep in mind, as tempting as buying a knockoff might be, it can be associated with more nefarious elements. Better to support local shops like Ting’s, Wing on Wo & Co., Grand Tea & Imports, and KK Discount.

New York City Chinatown

From the food in Chinatown to its cultural character and history, you’ll want to include Chinatown as you put together your New York City itinerary !

The essence of NYC flows from its distinct neighborhoods that are influenced by the people who live there. When you take the time to get to know a neighborhood like Chinatown, you begin to grasp what the real NYC is all about.

So, what would you like to see and do in Chinatown NYC?

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Our Guide to New York City’s Chinatown

By Betsy Blumenthal

Emerging from the Canal Street station in Chinatown is an experience. There's not only the sensory overload—the aroma of roast duck, the striking visual of the neon green “hair” on hot pink rambutan in a fruit vendor's cart, and the cacophony of hawkers, passersby, and traffic—but also the uncanny warping of time. More than most of New York 's other neighborhoods, Chinatown is a time capsule lined with generations-old family-run businesses. But it is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic neighborhoods in all of New York City; its long history is still being written as its streets evolve, with new ventures emerging between the storefronts of the old guard. It's this juxtaposition that makes Chinatown so intriguing.

But the coronavirus pandemic has been particularly harsh on the neighborhood. Beyond the ubiquitous business closures that erased decades of history, the racist stigma associated with the virus led to attacks on the city's Asian American Pacific Islander communities. But Chinatown—and its residents—are resilient. The next generation of business owners is already reshaping the bright future of the neighborhood, reviving some classics and introducing their own spins on cuisine, commerce, and culture. Before the pandemic, Nancy Yao Maasbach, president of the neighborhood's Museum of Chinese in America, told Condé Nast Traveler she believed "there’s never been a more exciting time for this neighborhood in New York City." And while she might not have predicted the challenges faced by Chinatown over the last 18 months, her sentiment is perhaps even more true today.

To help get you started on your own journey through the neighborhood, we've collected our favorite things to do in Chinatown below.

This article appeared in the September/October 2021 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here .

The greatest hits

On the corner of Mott and Mosco, down a dark flight of stairs, unassuming neighborhood stalwart Hop Kee has been serving up no-frills Cantonese fare since 1968—but the lack of fuss is exactly why you go (and why Anthony Bourdain loved it). Slide into a booth and order the crabs Cantonese style, served in a rich brown sauce, and the salted squid with spicy green pepper. Over on East Broadway, Hwa Yuan Szechuan ’s white tablecloths are great for a dressed-up family dinner or a Friday night on the town; for something more low-key, Noodle Village on Mott is the perfect casual spot to roll into around 4 p.m. on a Saturday for steaming bowls of pork wonton noodle soup. On Doyers, Nom Wah Tea Parlor has been open since 1920, making it the oldest continuously running restaurant in Chinatown—and it’s still buzzing today, with locals and visitors who pack in each weekend for dim sum staples like shrimp shumai and Shanghainese soup dumplings. By contrast, Mee Sum Cafe on Pell Street feels like a place that time forgot, with hulking dun-colored cash register and metal barstools crowned with burnt-orange leather. Order one of the banana-leaf-encased sticky rice bundles, which sit by the dozens in trays on the counter, and a whole fish, marinated in soy sauce and scallions, if it’s available.

New kids on the block

Though Koreatown is technically three miles north, some of the best KFC—Korean fried chicken, that is—is on Pell Street, where Boka Korean Fried Chicken opened in 2019. Do a 10-piece order, along with a gut-busting helping of bulgogi French fries and a watermelon soju cocktail—served straight from a mini melon. Tonii’s Fresh Rice Noodle on Bayard opened in October of 2019, though with its scuffed white floors, random stoner art, and half-empty boxes of supplies, it looks more like it’s moving out than in. But the young crew behind the counter makes you forget all that—as do the pillowy rice noodles, with fresh shrimp and roasted duck. Tucked beneath the Manhattan Bridge, Hak Box is a sliver of a store at all of 200 square feet, but its namesake Hak Rolls, rice noodles stuffed with scallions and coated in bits of Spam and dried shrimp, are worth the squeeze. Fong On , the next-gen incarnation of the shuttered neighborhood staple Fong Inn Too, sits on a quiet stretch of Division, with red floors and white tiles that feel unimposing but cool.

Indulge your sweet tooth

Traditionally, Chinese meals end with something light, like a platter of seasonal fruit; full-fledged dessert items are typically reserved for snack time, and in Chinatown there is no shortage of snacks to be had. Start at Keki Modern Cakes on Mott Street, where the sweet scent of baked sugar hits you the second you step inside. The shop is known for its “bouncy cheesecake,” but the fluffy cream puffs, loaded with fillings like bright purple ube and delicate matcha, are every bit as memorable. Continue down Mott to Pinklady Cheese Tart , a tiny four-stool joint that sells exquisite tartlets (be sure to sample the nutty black sesame), delicately packaged in individual boxes, before backtracking to Alimama Tea , a hip café on Bayard with polished concrete floors, exposed brick walls, and a jumble of fairy lights hanging in the window that will delight Instagram influencers. Both the cartoonishly pink lychee rose tea and Onyx mochi doughnut, dredged in a shiny chocolate lacquer with flecks of gold and silver, taste as good as they’ll look in your feed. But on a hot summer’s day, there’s nothing better than heading a block west on Bayard for red-bean scoops (ideally in an M&M- studded sugar cone) from the Original Chinatown Ice Cream Factory .

Do try this at home

To re-create the flavors of Chinatown in your own kitchen, hit Po Wing Hong , whose ruby-red awning—and the shopping attendant who diligently parks customers’ rolling carts outside—makes visits feel like a trip to the theater. Inside, the space opens up to reveal long aisles stocked with everything from bottled sauces and bagged noodles to purplish dried sausages and slick jellyfish slices. (You can also pick up dried goods like plums and sea cucumbers, sold by weight.) Aqua Best , on Grand, sells glistening fluke, branzino, and sea bass, all propped up on ice. If your day starts early, swing by the fruit stands flanking both sides of Mulberry Street near the intersection of Grand: Vendors hawk fresh oranges and just- ripe cherries, prickly dragon fruit, and unwieldy durian beneath multicolored beach umbrellas.

Harrison Pierce

María Casbas

CNT Editors

Shop till you drop

CT Seafood Mart, on the corner of Grand and Chrystie, is a clearinghouse for everything from fresh produce and seafood to pastel-colored bedspreads and bamboo-tile car-seat covers. On Mott, K.K. Discount Store is packed with silverware, rolling pins, and mocha pots of every size; there’s also plenty to covet at the tiny Ting Yu Hong Co., including wooden sandals, delicately wrapped soap bars, and (in a nod to its 1950s origins) the occasional cigarette holder. Now five generations in, Wing on Wo & Co. is Chinatown’s oldest store; make an appointment to browse its exquisite porcelain goods, suitable for everyday use (a turquoise soy bottle) and special occasions (a jade-handle mirror). Beauty haven oo35mm stocks slather-worthy tinctures like Beauty of Joseon Radiance Cleansing Balm. Other noteworthies include Chen’s Watch Inc. , a spot that deals in shiny vintage pocket watches and grandfather clocks from the likes of Le Coultre, and Bok Lei Po Trading Inc. , a martial-arts supply store with a trove of Feiyue shoes and Jing Wu three-button shirts.

Walk it off

Head to Columbus Park’s Dr. Sun Yat-sen Plaza to watch elders play card games for a crowd, or stop at the Chinatown Fair Family Fun Center , a pitch-dark arcade on Mott, for a few rounds of ice ball. Don’t miss the Maya Lin–designed Museum of Chinese in America on Centre, which traces the history of the diaspora. Recently reopened after a devastating fire in January 2020, it’s free for all through September 19.

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• Cast & crew

A Trip to Chinatown

I. Noah Heap, after giving a number of the race track patrons some poor tips, is chased by the copper, Welland Strong, who is ever on his trail. Noah's attempts to panhandle the crowd are al... Read all I. Noah Heap, after giving a number of the race track patrons some poor tips, is chased by the copper, Welland Strong, who is ever on his trail. Noah's attempts to panhandle the crowd are also thwarted by the ever watchful Strong, who seizes and throws him bodily into the street.... Read all I. Noah Heap, after giving a number of the race track patrons some poor tips, is chased by the copper, Welland Strong, who is ever on his trail. Noah's attempts to panhandle the crowd are also thwarted by the ever watchful Strong, who seizes and throws him bodily into the street. Noah wanders into a Chinese laundry and induces the owners to give him a smoke. He plants... Read all

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Where To Get Chinese Food in Chinatown

Y ou walk into Chinatown, towards the enormous red and gold arches, and the world around you changes. The Potbelly across the street is now written in Chinese calligraphy and the Walgreens next door cosplays as a friendly neighborhood shop. And while commercial chains puppeteer as cultural landmarks, it's the people in Chinatown that make it so special. Once home to thousands of Chinese immigrants, less than 300 remain—and yet, the strip's culinary scene stands in defiance. There’s something here for everyone and to help you out, we’ve compiled a list of all the Chinese food you can still find in Chinatown.

China Boy is a cash-only takeout restaurant that serves the kind of food you skip home to eat. Walk up to the cloistered storefront and you’ll find a window decorated in twinkling lights and a cartoonized version of the menu drawn in bright pastel colors. You’ll be tempted to order everything on site, but start with the garlic spicy wings, which pack a punch. They’re savory and fiery, the skin is crispy, and the meat is tender. And for those of you that don’t carry cash, you can make a pick-up order online where you can pay by card.

For solo diners, Reren is a quiet lunchtime pick with impeccable service, affordable options, and really great food. When you walk into the restaurant, there's a mural of mummified noodles boiling in a pot of soup that you kind of just have to see it to believe. Stare at it mindlessly as you eat your order of beef and broccoli with headphones on—or read a book as is customary for most of the diners inside. Service is quick and the staff is willing to walk you through the menu. That said, if you’re open to trying something new (we’re looking at you General Tso soldiers over there), we recommend the Crazy Fish. The lightly battered flounder tossed in a bed of garlic and freshly chopped onions. It’s aromatic, spicy and an all around great meal.

TKK Fried Chicken

Most of the Chinese restaurants in Chinatown have been around for a long time, but TKK Fried Chicken is a very welcome recent addition. The fast-casual Taiwanese spot, located in Luna Hall, serves individual combo meals like the spicy chicken sandwich (get it deluxe if you want lettuce and tomato) for when you need a cheap on-the-go meal, and affordable family-sized chicken platters for when you really can’t cook dinner. Everything on the menu is worth trying—we particularly love the juicy, crunchy chicken tenders. Pair them with the seasoned curly fries or the buttery charred corn and a milk tea.

Wok And Roll

Wok and Roll is a lunchtime dream, because while the price may be budget (lunch specials are under $10), the food isn’t. You’ll likely find high school kids spending their weekly savings here, and tourists who’ve wandered in after seeing the karaoke options through the window. And though we haven’t tried the karaoke yet (we need a few more drinks for that), their food is A-1.  There were no misses on the menu which includes classic Chinese dishes, so lo-mein, beef and broccoli, etc., AND sushi, hence the name. Thankfully, they do both really well.

Joy Luck House

If you’re looking for something sweet, Joy Luck House is a great stop on your Chinatown crawl. And while the small shop serves breakfast, the desserts here really shine. There’s a silver counter out back where a small but mighty selection of pastries are encased in glass display. Depending on the time of day, they serve egg tarts and moon cakes that are warm, fluffy, and just the right balance of light and sweet. The shop also serves a selection of teas including a homemade ice tea and taro boba, which you can sit down and enjoy or slurp on your way back to the train.

Tony Cheng's Seafood Restaurant

Time stands still at Tony Cheng’s, which continues to serve tourists looking for a memorable dining experience. There’s an old-school, albeit caricatured, Chinatown feel to the place with golden arches, red calligraphy, and Buddha head statues. The felt seats that surround each circular table are so sunken in that you’ll plunge down on contact just like the lobsters in the tank sitting squarely in the center of the room. On the wall are photos of Tony’s friends, political dignitaries and big shots from Carter to Clinton who have dined here. That said, the food here is great—if you know what to order. Skip the crab rangoon, for example, and dig in to the black garlic scallop and shrimp instead.

Full Kee Restaurant

During the pandemic, Full Kee became one of those if you-know-you-know spots and that’s because their dumpling soup kept people sane. Back then, people took their order to go, but now it’s best to dine in and eat your meal right away. That way, you can enjoy the plump shrimp dumplings when they’re warm and slurp noodles that have been tenderized by the broth. The restaurant itself is bigger than it looks, with downstairs seating that’ll accommodate large groups of people around geometric wooden tables. The floors here are sticky and so are the menus, both signs that the food is worthwhile.

Chinatown Garden

Chinatown Garden is the go-to spot for groups trying to ditch the crowds (tourists) and sit down for a quick, quality meal. The restaurant offers a wide selection of communal-style tables, mostly booths that are great for families. Their retro menus take us way back. There are photos of each entree alongside bold black lettering. And luckily for us, the food tastes as good as it looks. The crab rangoon, right out the fryer, is crispy and is served with a sweet and sour sauce that pairs beautifully. Their spicy Szechuan beef is tender and will make your tongue tingle in all the right places.

Dumpling District

Some days, the dim sum at Dumpling District is worth traveling across town for. Other days, the Luna Hall stall is only good enough to cure your fatigue after going too long without eating. Stick with the soup dumplings and get the rainbow so you can try them all. You’ll sometimes see them being freshly pressed out and filled next to the cash register. Most folks take their dumplings to go, but food hall’s lounge area is a fun place to lean back, watch the news or a game, and spend a few extra minutes in the comfy chairs.