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The Ultimate Baja, Mexico, Travel Guide

Mexico’s 775-mile-long Baja Peninsula is a magnet for travelers in search of their own arid slice of adventure paradise. From surfing to mountain biking to beach lounging, here’s how to get off the beaten path and do it right.

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More than 75 percent of Baja’s 3.3 million residents live in the northern cities of Tijuana and Ensenada . Much of the rest of the 55,366-square-mile peninsula—surrounded by the Pacific Ocean on the west coast and the Gulf of California on the east coast—is wide-open space, an increasing amount of which is becoming preserved as federal lands, private reserves, and community projects. In total there are more than 14 million acres of protected land and water, including seven national parks, like Sierra de San Pedro Mártir in northern Baja, where Picacho del Diablo, the peninsula’s highest peak, rises to 10,154 feet. The rocky hike to the top is rewarded with views of the Pacific and the Sea of Cortez. Mountain bikers can get in on ocean views, too, with an exponentially growing network of trails in the mountains surrounding La Paz, Todos Santos, and Los Cabos.

But Baja’s most celebrated feature is its 2,038 miles of jagged coastline , which courts surfers, stand-up paddleboarders, sailors, scuba divers, snorkelers, paddlers, and anglers. Jacques Cousteau famously coined the Sea of Cortez, home to 800 varieties of fish, “the world’s aquarium.” Many of those species are protected in reserves like 27-square-mile Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park on the southern tip of Baja. On the Pacific side, the new, nearly three-million-acre Baja California Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve   is a protective sanctuary for gray whales and sea turtles.

My first experience in Baja started in Tijuana with a fish-bowl sized margarita. It was 1988, and the city was festive and gritty. Its complexity intrigued me. A decade later, I hopped a flight to the pastel-hued 17th-century mission village of Loreto to find it full of Hawaiian-shirt-clad fishermen en route to compete in a tournament for dorado, marlin, and sailfish in the Sea of Cortez. I headed south to the solitude of a nine-room eco-resort (which has since closed) on a searing white-sand beach looking out on the mysterious, cacti-studded Isla Danzante.

Three years ago, my boyfriend and I rented a car to explore the southern tip of the peninsula, mountain-biking the foothills above Los Barriles, snorkeling with sea lions off Isla Espí‪ritu Santo, and eating whole grilled red snapper while sipping jalapeño margaritas at an under-the-radar restaurant on the edge of La Paz’s marina. Along the way, we found a wind-carved canyon pierced by sunlight above the Sea of Cortez and long stretches of empty Pacific white sand.

A few months ago we returned, going deeper into the peninsula, exploring a network of new mountain-bike trails, paddling the newly protected waters of the Pacific Islands Biosphere Reserve, and meeting with a young entrepreneur, Adolfo de la Peña, in the old mining community of San Antonio, where he is trying to resurrect his historic community. As quickly as things are changing in Baja, some of the best things remain the same, like that La Paz restaurant, where we returned to eat grilled red snapper. The fish was as exquisitely fresh as we remembered it.

What You Need to Know Before Visiting Baja

Prepare for warm days and cold water: The Baja sun is hot, but the Sea of Cortez and Pacific Ocean can be cold, so pack protective Buffs, hats, UPF 50, and quick-drying cover-ups. Also bring a solid pair of shoes beyond flip-flops—cactus spines are omnipresent, from the beaches to the mountain-bike trails.

Get supplemental car insurance: If you plan to drive your car into Baja, make sure it’s in prime working order. Pending how remote you plan to get, you may not be able to find replacements parts if needed. For an idea of spare parts to bring along, visit All About Baja’s  Vehicle Preparation Checklist . And be sure to buy a Mexican car-insurance policy as U.S. plans don’t work south of the border. Get a quote from  Lewis and Lewis , a company that has been selling Mexican auto insurance since 1983, from one-day to one-year policies.

Or rent a car: If you aren’t driving down yourself, unless you plan to never leave a resort, you’ll want a car to explore. Note that the minimum age for car rental is 25 years old, but some companies accept drivers 21 and older with a valid driver’s license from another country and add a surcharge to the rental fee. American car-rental agencies like Hertz and Thrifty are ubiquitous at the Los Cabos airport—and be sure to buy the Mexican rental insurance. According to Mexican law, uninsured drivers can be arrested and held for liable damages.

Drive only during the day: For three key reasons: there are wandering cows, the roads are narrow with no shoulders, and in the evening, there are a lot more big-rig cargo trucks.

Find a less expensive flight across the border: Fly to San Diego, then take a 30-minute shuttle, Uber, or taxi to the  Cross Border Xpress  (CBX) facilities, a 390-foot-long pedestrian skybridge that crosses from California into Mexico and goes directly to Tijuana International Airport. If you use the CBX service (from $16 one way, and an additional $12 one way if you use the CBX shuttle), there’s no need to enter Tijuana airport’s main departure lounge. You’ll pass through the CBX’s security and go directly to your gate. On a good day, it’s possible to reach your gate in about twenty minutes (though you should always allow for extra time pending high volume travel days and other factors). Domestic Mexican airline  Volaris offers direct flights to Loreto, La Paz, and Los Cabos, and Calafia Airlines has direct flights to Loreto and La Paz.

Check travel advisories for the region: The Baja Peninsula is safer than most of mainland Mexico, but the situation is fluid, so keep an eye on U.S. State Department travel advisories.

Do your camping homework: Unlike the U.S., camping is not strictly regulated in Baja, which has its pros and cons. You can find yourself alone on a stretch of golden sand savoring the sunset of a lifetime, but there are also fewer amenities, like toilets and trash receptacles. The best places to camp are near small coastal towns and away from mega resort corridors, like Los Cabos. Read online forums and feel out the vibe of the place before staking the tent.

What’s the Best Time of Year to Visit Baja?

January to March is prime whale-watching season and the height of tourist visits. Summer is the best time to surf and brings temperatures that can soar into the nineties. Spring (May and June) and fall (October and November) have more moderate temperatures—the seventies to eighties—and fewer crowds, but beware that the Pacific Ocean hurricane season runs mid-May through November. In the fall of 2019, the area around La Ventana was deluged with rain, which made the desert lush and green but also left roads impassable in some places. The calmest water for sea kayakers can be had from October through early December, the best time for kiteboarders and windsurfers is mid-October to early April, and anglers can try their luck year-round, depending on what they want to catch.

Where to Go in Baja

We’ve separated the peninsula into four general regions and chosen the best adventures and activities to do in each, from drinking world-class wine in Baja Norte, the official designation of the northern half of the state, to surfing off Los Cabos, at the southernmost tip. Driving the entire 775-mile-long peninsula, as many Americans do annually with their dogs, tents, mountain bikes , surfboards , and SUPs , takes a solid week.

Baja Norte 

For a great starter Baja road trip, complete with surfing, hiking, canyoneering, kayaking, and an opportunity to redefine your notion of what constitutes Mexican food, try this 346-mile loop, which starts and ends in Tijuana, going through Valle de Guadalupe and its vineyards, the coastal city of Ensenada, and the little-known Constitution of 1857 National Park along the way. Add stuffing yourself with the world’s most authentic fish tacos, and you’ve got way more fun than you can fit into a five-day outing, the ideal amount of time for an introduction to this area. Or simply choose a couple of the destinations or adventures below.

Day 1: Cross the border from San Diego into Tijuana

Tijuana is experiencing a cultural renaissance, with cutting-edge architecture, colorful murals, and a spicy food scene. Enter into Mexico at Mercado Hidalgo, a plaza flapping with Mexican flags and brimming with piñatas, sombreros, and sweet dulces . Stop for lunch at  Telefónica Gastro Park , a former vacant lot turned food-truck haven where creative eats like octopus-and-corn-fungus tacos go well with smoky cucumber margaritas. In the afternoon, meander the mural-and-graffiti-filled pasajes , or artistic corridors, of El Centro. Head to Border Psycho Brewery for a smooth cream ale, then on to 52 Kool for an explosion of traditional central-Mexico flavors and classic Baja ingredients, like seafood, quail, and organic chicken.

Day 2: Head east to Tecate and then on to Valle de Guadalupe

From Tijuana, head east on Highway 2D for 36 miles to Tecate. Stop at Restaurante Amores  in Tecate, where the husband-wife owner-chefs have impressive culinary pedigrees. Order the chile- and garlic-infused tortilla soup, garnished with octopus. From Tecate, turn south on Mexico 3, and drive 46 miles to Valle de Guadalupe. The award-winning wines in this region are the handiwork of a little-known sect of Russian Christians who planted grapes when they immigrated here in 1905. In the past decade, the valley has become Mexico’s answer to Napa, with chic tasting rooms and sleek hotels with infinity pools. At Fauna , a relaxed restaurant within the exquisite hotel Bruma , local David Castro Hussong has created an organic oasis on 200 acres of vineyards, where the stark elegance enhances the surrounding arid landscape.

Day 3: Surf in Ensenada

A tranquilo fishing port 30 miles south of Valle de Guadalupe, the surf here stretches north and south of the city, with serious waves at beaches like La Fonda, El Pico, and Stacks. Gentler breaks are farther south, at Playa Hermosa. Stop in at  Playa Hermosa Surf and Skate Shop for rentals, lessons, or to watch owner Alfredo Jaro and his crew shape boards. About 45 minutes south of the city, you’ll find La Bufadora , the second-largest marine geyser in the world. It’s a well-touristed spot, but it’s awe-inspiring to watch the salt water blow and is also a good way to scout the incredible coasteering options available alongside the rugged Pacific. Ensenada-based X Tour  offers canyoning, rappelling, hiking, kayaking, or a combination of all four in one day.

Day 4: Hike and seek wildlife in Constitution 1857 National Park

The Sierra de Juarez is 60 miles east of Ensenada on Mexico 3. An oasis for mule deer, bighorn sheep, cougars, coyotes, bobcats, and soaring falcons, the 12,380-acre forested park sits at about 5,000 feet and boasts high-alpine Hanson Lake. Hike Jeffrey Route, a two-mile loop from the visitor center. Along the path sits a representation of a Kumeyaay camp, the indigenous people who settled in what is now the southwestern U.S. and Mexico more than 12,000 years ago. Or hike to the top of Hanson Hill, the summit of which is almost 6,000 feet.

Day 5: Head back to Ensenada

Take advantage of the incredible array of fish and shrimp tacos sold at stands on nearly every Ensenada corner. They go well with the locally brewed Aguamala Astillero Imperial IPA. Tijuana is a 70-mile drive north on coast-hugging Mexico 1D.

Where to Stay in Baja Norte 

Tijuana:  One Bunk Tijuana , a 14-room boutique hotel in the center of everything, with clean, modern lines, exposed brick walls, and beds so comfortable you can sleep off an all-nighter. Doubles from $55

Valle de Guadalupe: At  Bruma , eight glass-and-wood suites surround a main living room, pool, and deck and are so organically designed that you feel immersed in the surrounding landscape. Doubles from $438

Ensenada: There’s a good array of Airbnbs here, or book an ocean-view room at Torre Lucerna , an updated old-school resort hotel with clean and peaceful rooms. From $131

Camping: There are a few gated campgrounds, like Playa Saldamando, eight miles north of Ensenada. For a more private option, drive south of Ensenada, boot up Google Earth, zoom in, and find dirt tracks that lead to any empty remote coastline, where you can camp as long as you leave no trace.

Los Cabos and Todos Santos

On the southern tip of Baja, you’ll find Los Cabos, a collective term for the town of Cabo San Lucas, to the west; the 18th-century mission village of San José del Cabo, to the east; and the 20-mile corridor of sand and rock escarpments in between. Los Cabos deserves its rap as the hub for tequila-slamming, scantily-clad spring breakers, largely because it’s easily accessed by Los Cabos International Airport. But the region still has gorgeous bones, like Cabo El Arco, the craggy rock arch that delineates where the Pacific ends and the Sea of Cortez begins, and, on the far east end of San José del Cabo, Estuary Beach, which is backed by a freshwater lagoon that harbors more than 350 species of vegetation and wildlife. In between are resorts for every budget, 11 major surf breaks, ample opportunities to watch whales or deep-sea fish for wahoo, marlin, and tuna, and culinary oases, like  Flora Farms , a 25-acre organic working farm and an open-air restaurant in the foothills of Sierra de la Laguna. For those who prefer more solitude with their sand and waves, the laid-back village of Todos Santos is about an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Mexico 19. Beware: many beaches in Los Cabos are often closed to swimming due to deep drop-offs near the shoreline that create dangerous riptides and currents, so heed the signs. The most swimmable spots are Medano Beach, in the heart of Cabo San Lucas; Chileno Beach, in the luxury hotel zone northeast of Cabo San Lucas (and it has lifeguards on duty); and Playa Acapulquito, or Old Man’s Beach, near San José del Cabo.

What to Do in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Find surf action for everyone in Los Cabos: From the hard-charging surfer to the adventurous family of five that wants the ultimate multisport ocean vacation, there’s something for everyone in Los Cabos. The string of breaks around Playa Costa Azul is the center of Los Cabos surf culture. Zippers, the rocky right-point break close to the beach, is home to the Los Cabos Open of Surf in June and has been part of the women’s and junior World Surf League pro tours for the past few years, while Old Man’s Beach and Pescadito are favorites for longboarders and beginners.  Costa Azul Surf School  offers rentals, lessons, and expert guides who lead excursions to lesser known breaks.

See a humpback whale breach: It’s one of the most awe-inspiring phenomena in the animal kingdom. Whales begin migrating south to the Los Cabos region in the middle of November, birth their calves in late December and January, nurse them through March and April, then begin their migration north. During this generous six-month window, take a two-and-a-half-hour Zodiac tour with  Whale Watch Cabo (from $89). It’s led by a marine biologist and is the most exciting way to see the whales as safely for them—and for you—as possible.

Go deep-sea fishing: Los Cabos has been hit hard with the illegal harvesting of billfish, so it’s imperative that you do your research on the most ethical charter company before signing up for a day of deep-sea fishing. One of the most long-standing is  Pisces Sportfishing , which started operating in La Paz in 1978 and eventually migrated south to Los Cabos. In 1995, it was honored with a Lifetime Achievement Award for Conservation by the International Game Fish Association. Since then several of its captains have been recognized with the Billfish Foundation Award for most striped marlin released worldwide. The company charters everything from 22-foot skiffs to mega yachts (from $112).

Lose the crowds in Todos Santos: This beautifully preserved 18th-century mission village an hour north of Los Cabos isn’t exactly a secret, but it’s still a nice big resort antidote, with artisan shops, boutique hotels, and Hotel California , mistakenly believed to be the inspiration for the famous 1976 Eagles song. Mountain bikers will want to stop in at Over the Edge , a full-service bike shop that rents current models and full-suspension mountain bikes and can guide riders or point them in the direction of the area’s 30 miles of hand-built trails that roll over dunes and into the foothills and show off panoramic Pacific views.

While Todos Santos is near the Pacific, it’s not actually on the Pacific. Drive west of town, and almost any road will dead-end at a dune from which you can walk the seemingly endless stretch of golden sand known as La Cachora beach. Its water is so rough that surfers gravitate five miles north of town to La Pastora, a sandy beach with fun right breaks. You’ll need four-wheel drive to get there, but it’s worth it, especially since it’s also home to the  Green Room restaurant, named for the ephemeral feel and color on the inside of a wave. The restaurant’s mezcal margaritas and smoked tuna pâté, served right on the beach, are the perfect way to wind down a busy day.

South of Todos Santos is Pescadero, a reef break close to shore, and Cerritos, a sandy-bottom beach break with the most consistent surf in Baja Sur. Los Cerritos Surf Shop rents boards at the beach from sunrise to sunset.  Mario Surf School and  Pescadero Surf Shop , in the small hamlet of El Pescadero, also offer surfboard rentals, in addition to lessons and excursions (including kayaking and stand-up paddleboarding). Fuel up for the morning with a cup or two of organic, honey-processed java and a veggie frittata with spicy Mexican salsa from  Baja Beans , an outdoor café nestled among mango trees.

Three species of endangered sea turtles nest on the beaches of Todos Santos from October through March: the olive ridley, black, and critically endangered leatherback. Help them out by volunteering with  La Sirena Eco Adventures , a nonprofit that needs people to care for hatchlings, relocate nests, clean up the beach, and guard the turtle sanctuary.

Where to Stay in Los Cabos and Todos Santos

Airbnb and VRBOs are a ubiquitous option Los Cabos—Todos Santos alone offers more than 200 VRBO listings and endless Airbnb rentals, from canvas tents to palatial beachfront haciendas.

Todos Santos:  At the end of a dirt road on isolated Punta Lobos beach, 3.5 miles south of town, the newly opened, 32-room Hotel San Cristóbal  is a throwback to simpler times, where guests gather around a bonfire at night to sip cervezas. The on-site restaurant serves locally harvested bounty, from fish caught earlier in the day to herbs and greens pulled from nearby fields. From $270

Or check out  La Sirena Eco Adventures , which offers basic, clean eco-casitas, some with fully equipped kitchens, for their volunteers. From $60

Los Cabos:  Los Milagros , a 12-room boutique hotel, is a surprisingly inexpensive and peaceful oasis in the heart of Cabo. It was founded by a cyclist who rode his bike the length of the Baja Peninsula and loved Los Cabos so much that he founded the property in 1996. The walled courtyard and trellised bougainvillea are welcome respites from the action outside. From $70

Another great option is the  Montage Los Cabos , the first Montage property to open outside the U.S. This luxurious and intimate new resort fronts a sandy crescent beach on Santa Maria Bay, which protects swimmers and snorkelers from the riptides and waves. There’s a 40,000-square-foot spa, but lounging by the exquisite infinity pool is a meditation unto itself. From $825

The East Cape and La Paz

Long the haunt of sea-loving luminaries like John Steinbeck and Jacques Cousteau, Baja’s Sea of Cortez on the east coast is a marine biologist’s dream. It’s also a wind machine from mid-November to early March for kiteboarders and windsurfers. The less traveled East Cape stretches from the marina of San José del Cabo some 90 miles north through Cabo Pulmo National Park to the gentrifying coastal villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana. Fifty miles farther north is La Paz; this city of 240,000 residents, with its hopping malecón, or seaside promenade, is the jumping-off point for the 244 protected World Heritage site islands, the largest of which is Isla Espíritu Santo. Drive 221 miles farther north and you’ll find the 17th-century mission village of Loreto, the original point from which Jesuit priests set out to evangelize the peninsula, and San Ignacio Lagoon, the winter sanctuary of the eastern Pacific gray whale. The best way to access this part of the peninsula is to fly to San Diego, cross the border to the Tijuana airport, and book a flight directly to La Paz on a regional airline. The other option is to fly into Los Cabos International Airport and rent a car. Reliable shuttles like Ecobajatours make multiple trips between the Los Cabos airport and La Paz daily.

What to Do in the East Cape and La Paz

Snorkeling and scuba diving at Cabo Pulmo National Marine Reserve: In the 1990s, local fishermen stopped commercial fishing to let the waters and reefs regenerate. Since then, the reefs have rebounded, biodiversity has increased more than fourfold, and every formerly endangered major species has rebounded. Experience the comeback by snorkeling with Cabo Pulmo Sport Center , owned by the descendents of Jesus Castro Fiol, a pearl diver who was born here in 1897 and was instrumental in creating the national marine reserve. The center’s two-and-a-half-hour tour (from $55) explores coral gardens and the sea life that lives in them. Go deeper with  Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort , whose expert instructors offer diving at 14 sites, like the 45-foot deep  El Vencedor  wreck, and possible encounters with tiger and bull sharks at the coral reef La Esperanza (from $139).

Kiteboarding and windsurfing at Los Barriles and La Ventana: November through March, it’s not uncommon for “ El Norte ” to howl down the coastline at almost 30 miles per hour, which is why the fishing villages of Los Barriles and La Ventana, 50 miles farther north, come alive with wind fanatics in the winter months. Based in the beachside  Hotel Playa del Sol (from $140),  Vela Baja is a one-stop shop for kiteboarding, windsurfing, stand-up paddling, freediving, mountain biking, and, now, foiling. The laid-back little enclave offers special foiling clinics from world-champion pros like Daniela Moroz, updated equipment rental, and a community of like-minded souls. La Ventana has a long beach with a natural arc that, thanks to the wind direction, ensures even beginners will eventually wash ashore. The hotel, restaurant, and surf school  Baja Joe’s is situated in the heart of the beach, which means instantaneous action when the wind blows. It  offers International Kiteboarding Association –certified instruction for all levels, three-day camps, equipment rentals, or storage for surfers who bring their own gear.

Mountain biking at Rancho Cacachilas: Mountain bikers head to the hills at  Rancho Cacachilas , a solar-powered adventure resort that sprawls across 35,000 acres in the Sierra Cacachilas between La Ventana and La Paz. With 24 miles of existing and 43 miles of planned International Mountain Biking Association–sanctioned singletrack on the ranch, the riding is designed for all skill levels and and offers great ocean views. There’s also 37 miles of trails for running and hiking, and the ranch offers sustainability-oriented classes like beekeeping, artisan cheesemaking, seed storage, and water collection.

Sea kayaking and snorkeling: La Paz has a three-mile-long seaside promenade that makes for fun people watching during a sunset stroll after dinner at  La Costa , a low-key seafood restaurant tucked into the marina with tables in the sand. Spend a night in the city, then launch into the Sea of Cortez to kayak, snorkel among sea lions and whale sharks, and stretch out on the sand at one of many empty beaches.  Sea Kayak Adventures offers one-to-ten-day journeys from La Paz up to Loreto and over to the Pacific Ocean’s Magdalena Bay. Trips include everything from kayaking to whale-watching to hiking. To take a deep dive into outdoor leadership and personal communication skills, sign on to one of  NOLS ’s three Baja adult expeditions, an eight-day coed or women-only coastal sailing expedition, or a seven-day women’s sea-kayaking expedition.

Surfing: The waves on   the Sea of Cortez are less consistent than the Pacific. Most breaks require a big south swell or a strong storm. If you hit the timing right, you’ll find a nice, lonely right break at Nine Palms Beach in Santa Elena Bay, about an hour east of San José del Cabo. BYO boards.

Hiking: This region of Baja has a rich human history that dates back at least 10,000 years. The aforementioned Sea Kayak Adventures offers a five-day Cowboys and Cave Paintings journey from Loreto to the Sierra de San Francisco, where guests hike to visit many of the thousands of Unesco World Heritage cave paintings of people, deer, snakes, birds, and even whales. Another great day hike between La Paz and La Ventana that offers an opportunity to interact with locals is the old, partially cobblestoned Camino Real de Santa Ana, the route miners used for 300 years to transport precious metals north to San Diego. Start at the Museo Ruta de Plata  in El Triunfo, then hike roughly five miles along the Camino to the town of San Antonio, where local Adolfo de la Peña, whose father was a miner, has started the the cooperative Las Realeños de San Antonio . You can book an appointment with Adolfo, who will guide you through the town’s mining history, complete with a hike to two nearby mines—one of which is underground—and the best local sites, including the home of Bertholita, who cooks visitors spicy empanadas and queso fresco, and a local art cooperative.

Where to Stay in the East Cape and La Paz

Cabo Pulmo:  Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort has various-size villas and bungalows, all of them clean and colorful, some with full kitchens, and most within a few steps of the beach. From $89

La Ventana:  Camping La Ventana has ten campsites and three RV sites for rent just 200 feet away from the beach, hot showers, and a washing machine. From $20

Rancho Cacachilas: Chivato Base Camp , the rustic main lodging area at the ranch, has ten cabin tents in addition to six bunk rooms that sleep two people each, plus outdoor showers, composting toilets, and a central outdoor kitchen and gathering space. Or try Los Pisos, a ranch camp higher in the mountains that offers platform safari-style tents surrounding an outdoor kitchen. From $175 all-inclusive, minimum stay two nights; open October 1 to April 30

La Paz:  Posada Luna Sol , within a few blocks of the promenade, is a delightful jumping-off point for Sea of Cortez adventures, with breakfast by the pool, a third-floor terrace with views to La Paz Bay, clean rooms, and cruiser bike rentals for $10 per day. From $55  

On the other end of the promenade, Seven Crown La Paz Centro Historico is located in the heart of La Paz’s historic district and within steps of chic new restaurants, like Marinera Poke and Seafood (try the gyozas del puerto and the pin-up margarita), and offers free breakfasts at a street-side café next door. From $73

How to Be Conscious in Baja

Go local: A common practice in Baja is for gringos to buy up rental properties, fishing charters, and yachts, then use them to provide under-the-table tourist services to other out-of-town “friends” without paying local taxes or using local guides. This depletes residents’ resources. Be sure any U.S-owned entities—from fishing guides to hacienda owners—are doing fair and honest business that benefits the locals by providing training and income and puts money back into the communities. Better yet, look for locally owned businesses and guides, like Adolfo de la Peña in San Antonio.

Speak the language: It’s always respectful to speak the language of the country you’re visiting, so study up on your rusty high school Spanish.

If camping, pack out what you pack in: Garbage collection isn’t always consistent, so keep it with you until you can find a place to properly dispose of it.

Be frugal with your water use: Baja Californians have the country’s   lowest availability of fresh water per inhabitant—785 cubic meters per year—when the Mexican  national average is 4,200, according to data from the National Institute of Statistics, Geography and Information Technology. The lack of water will become a serious issue soon, especially if resort development remains unchecked. Be conscientious of your usage, and choose lodging and outfitters who are as well.

See marine life and other wildlife in an ethical way: Baja is one of the only places in the world guests can get within close proximity to gray whales after they’ve birthed calves in the Sea of Cortez lagoons or humpback whales as they start to migrate north to cooler Pacific waters. The most ethical way to see these giants is with boat operators who give them wide berths and heed local rules, like obeying limits on the numbers of vessels allowed on the water at any given time.

Looped video (seen on the desktop version) by ianmcdonnell/Getty

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Editor’s Letter

Travel is a gift we give ourselves…

To see the what is happening beyond our doorstep, to understand different cultures, to see how society and the planet is changing. Travel opens our eyes and gives us greater insight into the world, as well as into other cultures. I know it has made me a wiser, more understanding human being and, yes, even more appreciative of what I have.

“BajaTraveler would not be where it is today without your top notch talent!”

Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo Editor-in-Chief

Sip & Savor

Sip & Savor Tacos & Tequila at Grand Velas Los Cabos – 2017 to benefit  Los Cabos Children’s Foundation

Sammy Hagar & Adam Levine

Sammy Hagar & Adam Levine Co-create World’s First “Mezquila.” The crafted drink they shared was created with a combination of tequila and mezcal. Surprisingly, both found the drink to be quite satisfying in structure, flavor, and taste. It proved to be an “aha” moment for both, one that embraced their shared passion and eventually would tap the entrepreneurial blood they both shared alternative to tequila. A unique quality blend of blue and espadin agave, the drink presented with a smoky-sweetness that had firm structure and body. It was the best of both worlds.

Adam Levine and His Family Soak in the Sun

Adam Levine and his family soak in the sun. At the start of the year, he was seen on the beaches of Cabo with his beautiful bride Behati Prinsloo and their new daughter Dusty Rose Levine, born in September of 2016.

Stacie Gottsegen

Stacie Gottsegen is a Senior Travel Editor and the Celebrity Correspondent for Traveler Publications. As a contributor, she enjoys learning more about the culture of the cities and personal passions of the subjects she writes about.

Gastro Bar at Paradisus

Gastro Bar at Paradisus, a luxury resort in Los Cabos, one of the many attractions is the variety of culinary delights that are sure to thrill every visitor.

Grand Velas

Expectations ran high when Velas Resorts opened their third Grand Velas property (fifth overall) in December 2016, this time in the Los Cabos Corridor.

Yoga Retreats

Yoga retreats continue to gain popularity worldwide as more and more people realize the benefits of the practice for themselves.

Cabo Wabo Cantina

When I first went to Cabo, it was just a little fishing village with dirt streets and you could walk on the beach and see only your own footprints for miles.

Guadalupe Valley Wines

Wine has been made in Guadalupe Valley since 1836, but the current rage for Mexican wines originated some 25 years ago.

Imposters of the Heart at Home or Abroad

Used to be that the number one crime in America was identity theft. No more. According to the Federal Bureau of Investigation (F.B.I.), more than $200 million dollars was swindled by victims of online romance scams in 2016.

Beyond the Border

Our shared border to the south with Mexico has become both a source of controversy and intense dogma, one with an uncontrolled complexity that defies simple solutions.

17th Annual Latin Grammy Awards

The 17th Annual Latin Grammy Awards spanned a number of categories, from classical to urban. Big winners included Marc Anthony, the 2016 Person of the Year, and Carlos Vives and Shakira, who won Record of the Year and Song of the Year for La Bicicleta.

Fred Duckett Challenge

The Fred Duckett Challenge is about Raising Funds to Help Thousands of BCS Children. The 11th annual Fred Duckett Challenge was a truly inspiring event, bringing hundreds of guests together to support the children of Baja California Sur.

NFL Stars Blitz Baja

NFL Stars Blitz Baja with an inaugural Baja Athletic Conference (BAC) brought together current and former National Football League players for a weekend of golfing, fishing, networking, and schmoozing with football fans.

Los Cabos Developers’ Association Annual Golf Tournament

Los Cabos Developers’ Association Annual Golf Tournament raises funds for local charities and it is committed to providing economic resources that local charities need to carry out their work.

Ensenada Wine Festivals

Ensenada Wine Festivals Celebrate Rich Culture. The first activity is in Spring, the moment when the wineries release their new products and present them at the Festival de las Conchas y el Vino Nuevo (Festival of Shellfish and New Wines).

Within less than a year in the United States, Andrea Tankovitz has already established herself as a successful fashion designer. Her vision and mission with Tankovitz Couture is to “Bring Class and Elegance Back” by setting a positive example for those in and out of the fashion industry.

Marco Monroy

As a co-owner of Cabo Wabo Cantina, Marco Monroy knew from the very first time he visited Cabo in the late seventies that, someday, it would become a “hot vacation destination!”

Radomir Bojanic

Radomir Bojanic started working in the tourism industry by pure accident, but after spending the last 23 years working at the Palacio Azteca Hotel, he says it was the best thing that could have happened to him.

Chef Tadd Chapman

Sit down to a good meal with Chef Tadd Chapman and not only will you notice an immediate appreciation for the ingredients that were used to create it, but of the region where the ingredients were cultivated and the hands that worked to grow them.

Investing in Mexico

Investing in Mexico: Buying a second home in Mexico, whether as a vacation home or possibly a future retirement home, is a good way to experience a new culture and can offer a good value for the investment.

Kathy Bowling

“My journey began in England in the county of Kent – in what is called the Garden of Eden,” says Kathy Bowling, an International Interior Decorator.

Marisa Comella

Since February 2015, Marisa Comella has been the Executive Director for Los Cabos Children’s Foundation, which has been around Southern Baja for the past 14 years.

Letty Coppel

At the Letty Coppel Foundation her primary responsibility is to ensure that those who collaborate with her have the tools to perform the tasks necessary to meet their goals.

Daly Negron Allen

As one of the owners of Vinicola El Cielo in the Valle de Guadalupe, Daly Negron Allen has realized the dreams she has long shared with her husband, Gustavo.

Jane Waterous

“Everything that matters happens when people come together,” according to internationally renowned artist Jane Waterous. While most of the creative spark takes place in her studio on Paradise Island in the Bahamas, her vibrant pieces can be found all over the world, gracing galleries, foundations, corporations and the homes of Hollywood A-listers, Fortune 500 executives, athletes, politicians, royals and avid art collectors.

The Present and Future of Real Estate in Baja California

The Present and Future of Real Estate in Baja California: The growth of investments in the region continues to increase and many buyers have found that investing in our property is among the safest and cost-effective way to gain a return on investment.

Real Estate Market Perspective in Baja California Sur

Real Estate Market Perspective in Baja California Sur: Visitors are responding positively to the new Los Cabos. The destination ended 2016 with a 70% occupancy rate.

Norman Estates

The Norman Estates are the first Mexican property for Golf-Legend Greg Norman. In addition to Norman Estates, the resort will include a village with shopping, dining and entertainment; an expansive community park with a lake, biking and hiking trails and family picnic areas; as well as a luxury resort, tennis center and much more.

Quivira Los Cabos

The location of Quivira Los Cabos is outstanding. In a destination well-known for its mountain-desert-ocean environment, Quivira sits at the southernmost point, the tip, of the Baja peninsula, where the Sea of Cortes meets the Pacific Ocean.

Solaz, a Luxury Collection Resort, is conveniently located between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo, on Cabo’s most celebrated stretch of beach by the azure waters of the Sea of Cortez, the richest body of water on our planet.

El Encanto is a community of individually-owned luxury homes, is being developed just outside of town, on the pristine coastline adjacent to the development of Puerto Los Cabos. El Encanto is evidence of how policy changes are making real estate in Cabo a great investment.

Culinary Trends in Baja

Culinary trends in Baja continue to garnish accolades from chefs, food aficionados, gourmands, and travelers alike for its boldness, freshness, and above all, its ability to explore and mine the full range of flavors from the sea and land.

One&Only Palmilla

Long known as one of the world’s most exclusive ultra-luxury resorts, the iconic One&Only Palmilla resort re-opened on 20 April 2015 and introduced the most comprehensive integrated spa, beauty, men’s grooming and fitness centre in the Baja region.

Underwater photographer, filmmaker and PADI Course Director Luke Inman opens up about his passion for diving, his connection with the Sea of Cortez, and his relationship with the sea lion.

Come Spot A Dolphin

Come Spot A Dolphin! For a vacation that would please those who are in search of peace and privacy, Baja Vacation Oceanfront Villas in the San Antonio del Mar complex offer a perfect alternative to staying at a hotel.

The Resort at Pedregal

luxurious resort stay in Baja may not be enough for discerning jetsetters with bold bucket lists and an adventurous spirit. For them, the AAA five-diamond The Resort at Pedregal might be the answer.

Todos Los Santos

Todos Los Santos, a thriving colonial town located near the Pacific coast and nestled at the base of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains in Baja California Sur, lies less than an hour’s drive north of Cabo San Lucas on Highway 19 and about an hour south of the capital city of La Paz.

Baja Books features 3 great recommended reads that will give you an insightful perspective of Baja California too good to pass up!

Golf in Mexico

Golf in Mexico Takes Centerstage By Greg Norman The PGA TOUR finally put the “world”…

Sylvia Mendoza

Sylvia has served as Senior Editor for Traveler Publications for the past five years. An award winning writer, growing up a Navy brat, Sylvia lived in different versions of paradise like Hawaii, Guam, San Diego and – later in life – Puerto Rico.

Imagine watching Cabo’s breathtaking sunset with margaritas and Mexican canapés after a session in the private spa treatment room while a dedicated culinary team prepares dinner to your exact specifications.

The Health Quest

Who doesn’t long for optimal health? From New Year’s resolutions with specific weight loss goals, to promises of engaging in more physical fitness activities weekly to making healthier food choices daily, most all of us are on a continual quest to be healthier.

Todos Santos

Plan to make Todos Santos more than a day trip from Los Cabos this year, because there is plenty to do to keep the whole family busy, and the Guaycura Boutique Hotel & Spa is the perfect place for a family stay.

The Cabo Wabo Cantina

Who better to tell the story of Cabo Wabo Cantina than Mr. Cabo Wabo himself, Sammy Hagar…

The Magic of Golf in Mexico

Golf was introduced in Mexico just over a hundred years ago, which is shocking considering today it is the type of golf destination that will make you wonder if it is the best you have ever visited.

Known as the “Cinderella of the Pacific,” Ensenada is located 70 miles south of the international border.

Los Cabos Restaurants

The corridor connecting Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo is a culinary minefield exploding with a plethora of fine dining options.

Noche de Cofradía

The art of wine making in the food industry extends to pairing the right wine with the foods placed in front of them for the best culinary experience.

Every summer for the last two decades, the Association of Developers in Los Cabos has gathered at a local golf course for the group’s annual golf tournament.

Genaro Ruíz

In a state where 74 percent of the gross domestic product is generated by tourism, Genaro Ruíz feels honored to have been named Secretary of Tourism of Baja California Sur by Governor Carlos Mendoza.

Ron Hatfield

One of Cabo’s original visionaries, Ron Hatfield has spent more than 20 years creating a lifestyle that has not only set a precedent in Mexico but has been recognized worldwide as an exemplar of the luxury residential resort lifestyle.

Raul Petraglia

In addition to the traditional responsibilities of a General Manager, Raul Petraglia, Managing Director of ME Cabo, must be involved in every aspect of the customer’s experience.

Fernando Favela-Vara

As co-founder and CEO of Winery Chateau Camou, Fernando Favela-Vara continues to fulfill the wishes and dreams of his father.

Gustavo Ortega

As Chief Executive Officer of Vinicola El Cielo in the Valle de Guadalupe, Gustavo Ortega has created a destination that offers a unique wine-tourism experience that is comparable to that found anywhere else in the world.

Tanya Talamante

As a resident of Los Cabos for over 20 years, Talamante has seen first-hand how dirt roads became two-lane highways and how property values soared.

Tavo Vildósola

Born into a family where off-road racing was the driving force in life, Gustavo Vildósola Jr., aka Tavo, is blessed with a talent he inherited from his father.

The Intersection of Cross-Border Divorce and International Property

Getting divorced can be complicated enough, but if you live in the United States and own property in Mexico, it can be even tougher.

Real Estate Market Perspective in Baja California

The past year has brought some interesting developments to Northern Baja’s real estate market. A market once dominated by the golden coast of the tourism corridor between Playas de Tijuana and Ensenada has given way to a wave of vertical urban developments in Tijuana and vineyard estates in the foothills and valleys of Tecate and Ensenada.

Baja California Sur is glistening anew, and not just its pristine shores, blue-water bays and colorful sunsets. Nearly all of its world-renowned hotels have completed major renovation projects while several new resorts and real estate offerings have arrived on the scene.

Cristina Romero-Peri

It would not be easy to find anyone more delighted with her profession than Executive Director Cristina Romero-Peri, who oversees the strategic direction of Sales and Marketing for One&Only Palmilla

Janet Jensen

It’s easy to fall in love with Cabo, just ask Janet Jensen. A transplanted Canadian who’s lived in the region for the last two decades, Janet felt the immediate draw of this placid paradise when first stepping off the plane.

Cristina Artigas

As owner of a catering company known as Cristina’s Feasts, Cristina Artigas feels blessed to be doing what she loves – which is running a Catering, Event Planning and Culinary Consulting Business on both sides of the Border.

Araceli Ramirez

The intensity in the way she expresses her feelings is evidence of how Araceli Ramírez, owner of Viajes Turibaja – Tours and Travel, approaches her job. She knows that, for many people, this is going to be the trip of a lifetime.

Experience the delights of Tijuana, the most visited border town in the world, where centuries of tradition and modern technology come together.

Rosarito is located about 15 miles south of Tijuana. This port is known for its beautiful wide beaches, lively night clubs, international cuisine and the famous Puerto Nuevo style lobster.

The Concierges of Baja Provide Service Through Friendship

It’s no secret to travelers the world over that when you visit Los Cabos, the customer service meter goes up a notch, if not more. Great customer service at the tip of the Baja Peninsula doesn’t just happen on its own.

The city of Loreto was founded on an extraordinary bay of islands by Jesuit priest, Juan María de Salvatierra, on October 25, 1697.

La Paz was founded by Hernán Cortés in 1535. It has been the capital of the State Baja California Sur since 1829, and is lately becoming a favorite spot for tourists.

La Paz Love

La Paz is the best kept secret. The thing about cliches though, is that they are generally true, and in this case, completely true.

Located at the tip of the Baja California Peninsula, Los Cabos (the capes) has been one of Mexico’s fastest growing resort areas for the past 10 years, attracting tourists from all over the world!

Reborn and reinvigorated, the iconic and ultra-luxurious One&Only Palmilla resort re-opened its doors on April 20, 2015.

There is Los Cabos luxury, and then there is The Cape. One of the newest properties in Los Cabos, The Cape, a Thompson Hotel…

ME Cabo is one of the most dynamic resorts in Los Cabos. Located in the fashionable – El Medano Beach – ME Cabo is a luxury…

Todos Santos is one of the most flourishing oases in southern Baja California. With its red brick buildings and wide streets, Todos Santos is still a quiet, charming and picturesque town.

Lewis Hamilton

British Formula One racing driver Lewis Carl Davidson Hamilton, recently spent some quality time in Baja. With an upcoming birthday on January 7, he flew to Cabo for the weekend and spent time at the super luxurious One&Only Palmilla Resort for some workouts, recreation, rest, and a general celebration of his birthday.

Esai Morales

Award-winning Esai Morales, has won the hearts and minds of audiences everywhere. A self-described “actorvist,” Morales has combined his passion of the human condition to build bridges across and beyond ethnic lines.

Rick Stedman

An award-winning writer, Rick has been a travel writer for 15 years, Rick has written extensively about Mexico over the last decade to include business profiles and golf course reviews.

Beth Purcell Cordasco

Beth has served as a Senior Editor for Traveler Publications for 13 years. An award- winning writer, Beth has grown up right along with Traveler Publications, from its infancy to its current standing as the most widely distributed English language travel magazine focused on Mexico in the world.

As Executive Editor, Pat has written for Traveler Publications since the beginning, in 1998. Her long-term involvement has entailed traveling to many wondrous spots in Mexico to interview people, attend events and gather data.

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HOW IT ALL STARTED

EVA’S TESTIMONIAL

EDITOR’S PICKS

A Border Kid from Reynosa, Mexico by Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo Photos courtesy of the Latin Grammy Academy   Edward Barrera was a triple winner at the LatinGRAMMY® held in Seville, Spain.  He…

By Mayté Rodríguez Cedillo Photos courtesy of the Latin Grammy Academy   For the first time in its 23-year history, the LatinGRAMMY® held its 24th edition of the show across the Atlantic……

Golf in Mexico Takes Centerstage By Greg Norman The PGA TOUR finally put the “world” into the World Golf Championships by bringing its first international WGC event to the world’s fourth most…

Booze Alert! Stock Your Bar!

Restaurants regulations are changing, foreign investment in tourism decreased, music, dance and art this friday, this tuesday, another american holiday takes place, jellyfish alert, food bank collection about to end, adopt a tree and create some shade, southern baja leads the country, mexico’s direct foreign investment breaks record, latest news.

Music, Dance and Art This

This Tuesday, Another American Holiday

Food Bank Collection About to

Adopt a Tree and Create

Mexico’s Direct Foreign Investment Breaks

From our front page:, half a million stray animals roam los cabos, may 20, 2024 edition, the cabo marina is open again, how much does it cost to live in mexico compared, new luxury resort planned for san jose del cabo, fish report.

• May 21, 2024

Cooking Like a Mexican

Que pasa in cabo, ask a mexican.

• May 7, 2024
• April 22, 2024

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE:

Cabo San Lucas in March 1987 Revisited

La Paz Gems, Part 1

10 Reasons to Try Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy

What is the Youth Integration Center?

Ready for a Baja Adventure? Here’s a few options

Mexico takes home gold and silver, a stroll through town with chef, coral bonilla shines at national surfing, mexico elections in brief, chasing dreams on a bike from, el espíritu de ahorita, mo·du·va·ted: creating a better meaning of, rare sea slugs sighting in the, the legacy of casa madero, the, digital edition.

Real Estate

New consumer protection regulations for, navigating hurricane season, attending open houses: a strategic, how to maximize profits in, photo gallery:.

Epic Adventure Starts Here

Adventure starts here….

Fishing in the Shadow of Volcanoes

2024 san quintin summer camping series, to mexico and the rest of us who love this country…, 3 surfers found dead – suspects in custody, is travel insurance really necessary, latest news from baja mexico.

Search Talk Baja

The Peninsula of Baja California takes its name from a Spanish romance novel from the 16th century, telling of an exotic, mythical island said to be “very close to the Earthly Paradise” and “ruled over by Black Amazonian Warrior Queen Calafia of the mythical island of California…”

These views never get old! 😍#baja #bajacaliforniasur #mexico #beachvibes 🎥 by @that_guy_outdoors

These views never get old! 😍#baja #bajacaliforniasur #mexico #beachvibes 🎥 by @that_guy_outdoors ...

Baja IS happiness! 😌 #baja #beachlife #peace #happiness

Baja IS happiness! 😌 #baja #beachlife #peace #happiness ...

Love this view! 😍 #baja #mexico #openroadlife

Love this view! 😍 #baja #mexico #openroadlife ...

Sunrise in Baja 🇲🇽 🎥 by @that_guy_outdoors

Sunrise in Baja 🇲🇽 🎥 by @that_guy_outdoors ...

A touch of the beauty of Baja as captured through the lens of @arora.the.explorer 📸

A touch of the beauty of Baja as captured through the lens of @arora.the.explorer 📸 ...

Smiling Faces Of Baja! Today featuring @puravidaseeker! 🚎 😃 Here’s a few memories from traveling Baja! #baja #happylife #mexico #smile

Smiling Faces Of Baja! Today featuring @puravidaseeker! 🚎 😃 Here’s a few memories from traveling Baja! #baja #happylife #mexico #smile ...

Happy Monday!🌵How did you enjoy your weekend? #baja #overland #mexico #friends #campfire

Happy Monday!🌵How did you enjoy your weekend? #baja #overland #mexico #friends #campfire ...

What is your favorite beach 🏝️ in Baja? 🇲🇽 #baja #mexico #beachlife 🎥 by @that_guy_outdoors

What is your favorite beach 🏝️ in Baja? 🇲🇽 #baja #mexico #beachlife 🎥 by @that_guy_outdoors ...

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The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico

With its endless stretch of pristine coastline, infinite camping possibilities, and hidden gems tucked far away from tourist hotspots, Baja may just be the ultimate roadtrip destination for those seeking adventure south of the border. 

Even more than the beaches and the prices, you’ll fall in love with the ‘no bad days’ attitude and easy living that come along with being in Baja, the simple pleasures of eating freshly caught clams right on the sandy beach or paddling out for sunrises that seem to burn only for you. As you’ll soon discover, the peninsula hides incomprehensible magic, best discovered with a loose agenda and your own set of wheels.

This guide contains everything you need to know about road tripping in Baja, including required paperwork for driving across the border, advice for hiring a car, Mexican auto insurance , driving conditions, military checkpoints, road rules, petrol stations & so much more! 

What's in this travel guide

A little intro to Baja, Mexico

The Baja Peninsula, often referred to simply as  Baja , is a 1200km-long, slender promontory of land bordered to the north by California (and a bit of Arizona), to the east by the Gulf of California/Sea of Cortez, and to the west by the Pacific Ocean. 

Although many people talk about Baja as a single entity (and indeed it was once united as  The Californias , including what is now American California), it’s actually  comprised of 2 different Mexican states: 

• Baja California (also called Baja Norte)
• Baja California Sur (abbreviated BCS)

Both Baja states are culturally and ecologically distinct from mainland Mexico in a multitude of ways, and the landscape here is an incredible blend of Arizona mountains (think: the Superstitions ), California deserts (think: Joshua Tree ), and wild, untamed Mexican coastline (unlike anything else). The image of cacti leading right up to the ocean is something you’re unlikely to experience anywhere else in the world.

Prepare to enjoy:

• the freshest seafood you’ve ever had, caught by locals on remote stretches of the Baja coast and sold in small roadside taco stands
• beachfront camping where you can walk from your van or tent right into the ocean in a few strides
• colourful historical towns with cobbled lanes
• unique wildlife encounters with everything from whale sharks and friendly grey whales to hatching sea turtles and curious stingrays
• real magic away from the tourists who don’t leave their resorts in Cabo
• unlimited snorkelling, diving, kayaking, and swimming opportunities… the list goes on!!

Baja roadtrip overview

Outside of only a few tourist hotspots and busy metropolitan centres, the Baja Peninsula is largely undeveloped— a complete lack of public transport means that the best (and often only) way to explore Baja’s wide open beaches, hidden hot springs, and remote coves is on a road trip!

For those who’ve yet to do it, however, the idea of driving in Mexico can be pretty intimidating. I’ll cover heaps more details about all of these topics in the sections below, but let me assure you of a few things up front:

• Is Baja, Mexico safe? Travelling in Baja is really no more dangerous than travelling anywhere else in North America, and as long as you use common sense and don’t go looking for trouble, you’re unlikely to find it. The crime rate in Baja is incredibly low and, outside of the border cities, suffers from almost none of the political turmoil or drug violence that you’re probably worried about (but truly needn’t be). I’ve spent over a year travelling all around Mexico, almost exclusively in a vehicle, and I often refer to Baja as “Mexico Lite” : there is a long history of American and Canadian retirees coming down here in their RVs and they’ve beautifully paved the way for a prominent “camper culture”, with plenty of English, accessible services, and a general sense of familiarity between locals and gringos.
• Sure, but is it safe to DRIVE in Baja? Generally speaking, Baja is an incredibly safe place to road-trip, with well-maintained highways, friendly locals, and plentiful campsites. The one challenge with Baja is that you’ll often find yourself out of service, so you need to be comfortable navigating offline and also being out of communication on occasion . See my connectivity section below for some tips on staying safe without reception.
• What are the road conditions like? A majority of your time in Baja will be spent driving on beautifully paved, brand-new highways, but to access some of the best camping, you’ll inevitably travel off Highway 1 and onto sandy roads that lead out to the beach. This is more challenging and there are a lot of areas I wouldn’t have felt comfortable driving my van by myself because I’m simply too inexperienced with rough terrain. Based on your own comfort/experience, you can stick to developed areas or venture out to wild camping sites; you’ll always have options!

Getting to Baja

You have 3 options for getting to Mexico’s Baja Peninsula for an epic road trip:

• Fly in to one of several international airports (& pick up a hire car)
• Drive across the US-Mexico border in your own vehicle
• Catch the ferry from mainland Mexico (with or without a vehicle)

Option 1 : Flying to Baja

If your Baja roadtrip will span the entire length of the peninsula (recommended!), you can fly into either the north or south end to start:

• Tijuana (TIJ) or Mexicali (MXL) International Airports, both at the far northern border of Baja California *note that my suggested Baja itinerary begins in Mexicali
• Los Cabos (SJD) or Cabo San Lucas (CSL) International Airports, both at the southern tip of Baja California Sur

For those looking to do only a portion of Baja California Sur on their roadtrip, I’d recommend flying into either:

• La Paz (LAP) International Airport, the capital city of Baja California Sur

Search the best flight deals for your trip to Baja ↯

Option 2: Driving across the US-Mexico border to Baja

If you’re coming from the US and have a car, van or camper already, driving across the border is incredibly easy and a fantastic way to explore Baja!

There are 6 ports of entry between California, USA and Baja California, Mexico accessible to public vehicles, with the busiest being  San Ysidro (the busiest land border in the entire world!)  and the least trafficked being Andrade (about 15min from Yuma, Arizona, although the actual crossing is in California).

If you’re following my Baja itinerary , I highly recommend crossing in Calexico East /Mexicali II , which is usually very quiet, quick, and without hassle!

Required documents for crossing the US-Mexico border

• Proof of Mexican Auto Insurance (read this post for details)
• Vehicle Registration (original & copy)
• Vehicle Title (copy) or Lien Agreement
• FMM Tourist Card

For more information about all of this paperwork and step-by-step instructions for the border crossing, check out this post ↯

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

Option 3: Ferry from mainland Mexico to Baja

There are  2 ferry companies operating between Baja and mainland Mexico  ( TMC  and  Baja Ferries ), departing from both Mazatlán and Topolobampo, Sinaloa on the mainland and arriving into La Paz, BCS on the southern end of the peninsula. These ferries transport passengers as well as cars (I took my van from Baja to mainland Mexico on TMC in 2022), so it’s a great way to continue your road trip or just skip a potentially pricey domestic flight if you’re already in Mexico.

If you’re thinking about taking the ferry between mainland Mexico and Baja, be sure to read this super detailed post that will walk you through the process in great detail — it’s written from Baja to mainland, but applies in the other direction, too ↯

Vanlife Mexico: everything you need to know about the ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico (La Paz to Mazatlán)

Getting around Baja

Option 1: driving your own vehicle to baja.

If you opted to drive your own car, camper, or van across the US-Mexico border into Baja, the most important requirement that you need to be aware of is Mexican auto insurance.

As a condition of entry to Mexico (the Baja Peninsula and/or mainland), you are required to obtain a Mexican auto insurance policy with a minimum of third-party liability coverage—  this just means that your insurance company would pay out (up to the stated maximum) in the event that another vehicle is damaged or another driver is injured and you are deemed to be at fault. Unless you’re driving an incredibly inexpensive car and have no fear of theft/damage/vandalism, then you’ll likely want to invest in a more comprehensive policy. I wrote an insanely detailed comparison of Mexican auto insurance options that will help you understand what kind of coverage is best for you ↯

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: How to get the best Mexican auto insurance for a converted van or camper

My recommendation: Baja Bound Insurance

During my first 6-month Mexico roadtrip, we actually had an accident in our van and our agent at Baja Bound handled the entire process for us , from speaking to the police, getting insurance information from the other driver, and we didn’t pay a single PESO out of pocket— it was an unbelievably easy and stress-free process, so I truly can’t recommend this company highly enough!

Option 2: Hiring a car in Baja

I’ve rented a car in Mexico on several occasions and you can expect the rates to be very reasonable— but you’ll pay about 2x the actual rental rate for required insurance, a detail that car hire companies like to hide in fine print until you arrive to pick up the keys.

• Including the most basic insurance option, it costs about $45USD/day to rent a compact car in Mexico (even with different pick-up and drop-off locations)
• You may want to consider something with high clearance and maybe even 4WD if you intend to camp on the beach, which is such a magical part of exploring the peninsula. In this case, you can expect to pay more like $120USD/day for an SUV (inclusive of insurance).

If you’re following my recommended Baja itinerary, set the pick-up location to Mexicali International Airport (MXL) and the drop-off to Los Cabos International Airport (SJD). Search for the best rates using DiscoverCars , which compares dozens of companies to find you the best deal ↯

All about driving in Baja

Highway driving.

A good deal of Baja driving is on the highway, and although there used to be dicey stretches (particularly in Baja Norte), I’m pleased to report that all major highways are in excellent shape as of 2022 and driving on the highway in Baja is now fairly straightforward! The only thing worth noting is just how narrow the roads are, often with no shoulder, so be cautious as large trucks come flying by.

There are a few interesting idiosyncrasies when it comes to driving in Mexico, so here are a couple important road rules/customs to be aware of:

• When driving on the highway, you’ll notice slower vehicles pull partly onto the shoulder and sometimes even put on their left blinker— this is a signal for you to pass , driving partly in your lane and partly in the opposing lane in what can quickly became a dangerous game of chicken with oncoming traffic. Most of the time, this works incredibly smoothly and you’ll come to appreciate the easy flow of cars around you! I’ve also had enormous trucks come barreling down the highway directly at me and move back into their lane only seconds away from a collision, so just be aware that this is not only customary here, but extremely common. I’m not encouraging you to pass at dangerous times, of course, but if you notice cars banking up behind you, it IS expected that you’ll move partly into the shoulder to let them by.
• This can become very confusing if you are actually trying to turn left off the highway, as people behind you might think you’re signalling them to pass and accelerate right into your path— to avoid this, the law in Mexico states that you should pull onto the right shoulder and wait for a break in traffic before turning left across both lanes. 

Free vs toll highways While mainland Mexico is littered with a confusing network of free roads ( libre ) and paid toll roads ( cuota ), you can easily manage my entire north to south Baja itinerary on free highways in excellent condition. Unless you decide to cross the border in Tijuana (in which case you may indeed want to hop on a toll road), then you can just stick to the libre .

Military checkpoints

There are half a dozen military checkpoints located along the length of the Baja Peninsula and you’ll hit most if not all of them on my recommended Baja road-trip itinerary.

For the most part, this is no big deal— you’ll be asked where you’re from and where you’re going, and then the officers will have a look inside your vehicle. However, there is always the potential that the officers will swing to the other extreme and spend an hour tearing your car/van apart, possibly with drug dogs.

In VERY FEW instances, this can be an opportunity for corruption to appear. The police in Baja are rarely brazen enough to demand a bribe outright, but the military guards may bait you with questions like “can I have these headphones” or otherwise try to suggest that you’ve violated some rule to see if you’ll offer money. It’s almost always enough to simply say NO and, when in doubt, pretend not to speak any Spanish while acting politely confused and the officer will quickly relent. You don’t need to be concerned about things becoming violent or scary, as you’re right in front of the checkpoint; in all likelihood, you’ll pass through without any incident!

The location of military checkpoints are noted within the driving directions on my Baja itinerary post so you can plan ahead : BAJA VANLIFE ROAD TRIP ITINERARY FOR 1-3 MONTHS (+ DRIVING DIRECTIONS & CAMPING IN 2022)

Street/town driving

One of the bigger challenge of driving through Baja is on small town streets, like in Mulegé or Loreto. These street are often cobbled and only wide enough for one car at a time (despite technically being two-way), so proceed with caution and, if you’re in a larger vehicle or a van, consider parking outside of town and walking in to avoid hitting your mirrors on the side of buildings, as I did multiple times.

Google Maps Baja towns are extremely poorly mapped on Google, so if you’re following navigation with Google Maps, you’ll regularly be taken the wrong way down one-way streets and routed in circles through the city centre. When you’re in town, keep your eyes open for signs; on the highway, Google Maps is very reliable.

Beware: topes!

This is certainly the most boggling feature of Mexican roads and you’ll come to loathe them with a fierce passion. A tope is essentially a speed bump , but in Mexico, the height and shape of these bumps have absolutely no standards and are placed with WILD abandon throughout town streets, highways, dirt tracks , and basically anywhere you would never expect to find a speed bump.

You’ll only have to hit a few surprise topes to realise how damaging these can be to your vehicle, and for some inexplicable reason, a majority are not painted or signed in any fashion. Constant vigilance!

Driving on the beach

Some of Baja’s best free camping spots are located directly on the beach— it’s a big part of what makes a road-trip through Baja so spectacular, but can also be concerning for those who have a heavy 2WD van and little experience driving on sand. Here are some recommendations:

• Invest in all-terrain tires : before travelling to Baja, I swapped my tires for what many consider to be the BEST all-terrain tires on the market ( BF Goodrich KO2 ). Costco and Discount Tire routinely run specials, but even at full price, they are absolutely worth the money and were invaluable in safely navigating sandy or rocky terrain in Baja!
• Travel with an air inflator and pressure gauge : deflating your tires is probably the single best thing you can do to avoid getting stuck on the beach and often lowering the pressure further does more than traction boards OR hours of digging if you do get spun in. I ran 65/80psi (front/rear) for standard road driving, but aired-down to 30/40psi for sand and found it made a huge difference. 
• Walk the route: whenever I arrived at a new beach, I parked the van and walked through the sand to check for loose/deep areas that I needed to avoid and suss out the best route forward. I know this saved me from getting stuck several times, since the sand can get deep quickly in areas where it’s not possible to turn around, but often there are alternate routes if you take the time to look.
• Chat to other travellers : I always tried to introduce ourselves to at least one other camper on the beach, knowing that people will be far more inclined to help (if I did get stuck) after a friendly conversation. And as a rule, never push your limits on a super sandy beach when there are no other cars around!
• Know your limits: the best tires aired down to 20psi still won’t get a 2WD van onto every sandy beach, so knowing when to turn around and find another camp is very important. Typically, there will be easier-access sites a few dozen metres from the beach, and a 30sec walk to the water is much better than spending 2hrs getting your van un-stuck. When that fails, just head to the next beach— there’s no shortage in Baja!

Safety tips for driving in Baja

• Out of an abundance of caution, NEVER drive at night in Baja
• Once beyond the urban centres of Tijuana and Mexicali, Baja Norte has long stretches of very empty highway, so it’s really important to fill up whenever you pass a petrol station around the middle of the peninsula (and in particular, be sure to leave San Felipe with a full tank of fuel)
• In anticipation of the very limited mobile reception that I mentioned above and will discuss in more detail below, I’d recommend downloading offline Google Maps so that you always know where you’re going, even without service

Services in Baja

In the not so distant past, all petrol stations in Mexico were government-operated— you’ll still see heaps of Pemex around , particularly in small towns, but you’ll also find American petrol stations like Chevron, Arco, and even Costco in larger cities.

I consistently found Costco Fuel to be ~3 pesos cheaper than all other petrol stations , which may not sound like much, but adds up to around $15USD if you’re filling the tank!

• A 24-gallon (90L) fuel tank like the one in my Promaster 2500 van costs about 1700-2100 pesos ($95-120) to fill , which works out to be very similar to fuel prices I was paying in Washington or Oregon, and even a little cheaper than California. *based on 2023 fuel prices
• As of 2023, you can expect to pay around 22-24 pesos per litre.

In Baja, gas station attendants always fill your tank for you , so it’s helpful to familiarise yourself with a few phrases:

• magna for standard unleaded petrol
• lleno, por favor for a full tank
• es posible pagar con tarjeta if you wish to pay by credit card (which I’d recommend, since this will blow through your cash quickly and you’ll definitely need it when paying for food and camping)

These attendants work entirely on tips, so it’s a good idea to carry around some 10 pesos coins and 20 peso notes for tipping — I gave a larger tip if they washed my windscreen, which most do!

Wifi & mobile reception

As mentioned previously, one of the largest challenging of travelling in Baja is the lack of consistent mobile reception for long stretches of the highway and certainly at many campsites— I’d say that I had zero bars at camp more often than I had usable data.

Modern technology offers a few excellent work-arounds in the form of StarLink (satellite wifi that works EVERYWHERE) or the cheaper option of PLB/sat-phones like the Garmin In-Reach Mini , which is how I personally checked in with family while out of service and was prepared to call for help in the event that my van broke down. This is excellent peace of mind on long drives and at remote campsites!

For mobile service in Mexico, I use  Airalo , an amazing app that offers data eSIM packages for nearly every country in the world — you can activate the eSIM entirely from your phone, so you’ll have service as soon as you drive across the border or land in Baja without needing to track down a local mobile shop! Use code BROOKE2994 for $3 off your first eSIM with  Airalo !

Purified water

One of my biggest concerns before travelling to Baja was refilling the fresh water tank in the van, but it truly couldn’t be easier to find purified water ( agua purificada ) on the road in Mexico!

Locals rely on “water stores” for their own drinking water, so every single town will have a designated shop where you can purchase clean water, and almost all of these will allow you to fill your tank directly with a hose ( manguera ).

• Over 6 weeks in Baja, I spent just $14USD on water— expect to pay about 1 peso per litre (~$0.05USD)!
• Use iOverlander to find water refill spots around Baja or simply ask locals for the nearest ‘ agua purificada ‘

Where to stay in Baja

Camping in baja.

For those with a van or camper (or the willingness to pitch a tent), Baja has some of the most spectacular campsites of all time. All your dreams of camping on the sand with the ocean a few steps out your door are totally possible— no 4WD required! Here are some of your options:

• Facilities:  electrical hook-ups, dump station, toilets, hot water showers, laundry, WIFI, sometimes even a pool
• Typical cost:  250-800 pesos ($12-40USD)

Established campgrounds

• Facilities:  toilets, palapas, occasionally a restaurant (which might offer WIFI for customers)
• Typical cost:  100-300 pesos ($5-15USD)

Boondocking

• Facilities:  none
• Typical cost:  FREE!

Following my recommended Baja itinerary for 6 weeks, I spent just $24USD on camping. Check out this post to find out how , plus for a downloadable Google Map with GPS coordinates of every single campsite!

Hotels & Airbnbs in Baja

Although camping is the best way to experience Baja, it’s also possible to road trip the peninsula staying in a mix of hotels and Airbnbs . This will limit you to more populated areas and greatly extend your budget, but of course it’s an option for those not travelling in a van/camper or with a tent!

Accommodation prices vary wildly, but you won’t struggle to find something for every budget in places like La Paz, San José del Cabo, Loreto, and Todos Santos. Smaller towns, such as Mulegé and Guerrero Negro, have far fewer options, but generally speaking, you can find a comfortable hotel room in just about every main town for an affordable price. Check Booking.com for the best deals ↯

The perfect Baja road trip itinerary

After my experience driving from Mexicali to the tip of Los Cabos in my van, I put together a super-detailed 1-3 month road trip itinerary through Baja that you can use as a blueprint for your own epic adventure!

Here’s a quick summary (north to south) of all my recommended stops , but be sure to check out my full itinerary for heaps of information on what to do, where to eat, and where to camp in each destination, plus practical information like the drive time/conditions between each stop and the location of military checkpoints.

Baja California (Norte)

• Guadalupe Canyon
• Bahía de los Ángeles

Baja California Sur

• Guerrero Negro
• San Ignacio
• Bahía Concepción
• La Ventana & Ensenada de Muertos
• Cabo Pulmo National Park
• Los Cabos : San Jose del Cabo & Cabo San Lucas
• Todos Santos

Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

Read more about Baja, Mexico

start here -> The ultimate road-tripper’s guide to Baja, Mexico

How to get the best Mexican auto insurance for a converted van or camper

Vanlife Baja & Mexico: A guide to crossing the border + all required permits (FMM & TIP)

The ultimate Baja camping guide (+ 35 of the best vanlife & RV campsites!)

Baja vanlife road trip itinerary for 1-3 months (+ driving directions & camping in 2023)

Ferry from Baja to mainland Mexico (La Paz to Mazatlán)

brooke brisbine

I've spent the last decade exploring the world— everything from solo trekking in the Andes to overlanding in Zambia, all while completing a PhD in Biomechanics, teaching at a university & securing permanent residency in Australia. In 2020, I finally fulfilled my dream of becoming a full-time nomad! Whether it’s vanlife in Mexico, scuba diving in the Galápagos, ticking off incredible US National Parks, or climbing in the Dolomites, I hope this blog will inspire your future adventures & help you find wonder in every corner of the globe. xx bb

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The 5 Best Baja Trips for Backpackers

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Loreto to La Paz

The best way to see more of Baja? Pack in more mileage. This route covers a lot of ground (and water), but crafty paddlers will think it’s worth it for the mix of geology, sea life, and swimming. Starting in Loreto, paddle down the coast of Baja (the 20-mile detour around Isla San Jose is worth it) to reach La Paz, where you can camp on a white-sand beach beneath the Sierra de la Giganta mountains. Here, embrace your indecisiveness and throw some hiking into the mix.

Trip type: Paddling and hiking | Distance: 155 miles | Length: 10 days

Sierra de la Laguna

Baja may be known for its beaches, but its rugged interior deserves some recognition. This 35-mile point-to-point trip packs in two peaks and a handful of ecosystems. Start in Santiago on the Sea of Cortez side (reachable by bus or car from La Paz) to avoid day-trippers in the west. Along the way, tiptoe along 3,000-foot bluffs that yield huge ocean views. Spend nights at Rancho San Dionisio and La Laguna before reaching Todos Santos on the Pacific.

Trip type: Hiking |  Distance: 35 miles |  Length: 4 days

Isla Espiritu Santo Circumnavigation

Use the coastline as your map on this trip around Isla Espiritu Santo , a 978,000-acre island in the Sea of Cortez. Espiritu Santo—20 miles from the La Paz launch—features unique uplifts and land formations created by the faults below, which you can explore on foot. Keep your eyes peeled for sea lions, whales, and manta rays in the Sea of Cortez’s clear, warm water, and camp on beaches as you go. Tip: Bring a snorkel and fins.

Trip type: Paddling | Distance: 35 miles | Length: 7 days

Long Trail, Sierra Cacachilas Mountains

This reconstructed dirt path is part of a private trail network that provides more of a groomed experience—great for mountain bikers and rookie backpackers. Mix and match trails to create an itinerary to your liking, or go for the 13-mile Long Trail , a point-to-point along the route that was previously used to transport goods during weather too treacherous for sea travel. If your goal isn’t speed, camp like cattle ranchers once did at Paraje del Culantrillo.

Trip type: Hiking or biking | Distance: 13 miles | Length: 2 days

Mulegé to Loreto

Conception Bay forms a natural barrier between civilization and this paddling route . Starting in Mulegé, kayak 7 miles across the bay and continue around the peninsula to the Cortez side of Baja. Follow the coast and hop over to remote islands for seaside camping and exploration as you continue south toward Loreto.

Trip type: Paddling |   Distance: 90 miles |  Length: 10 days

Take your pick of hikes and paddles (and hike-and-paddles) in this adventurer’s paradise south of the border. No matter where you end up, white-sand beaches, water warmer than the air, and quiet waterfront campsites are all but guaranteed.

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Dipping into nature in Mexico’s Baja California Sur

A kayaker paddles into the sunset at Isla Espiritu Santo, in Baja California Sur. Pam LeBlanc photo

Above me, a beagle-sized sea lion pup pinwheels through the blue water of the Sea of Cortez. A second darts past with a seagull feather in its mouth, and two more nibble on the tips of the fins I’m wearing.

Scuba diving with a colony of sea lions at Isla Ilotes, a rocky outcropping at the north end of a string of islands near La Paz, Mexico, feels a little like joining recess at the local elementary school. Although my school days are long gone, I’m still having a blast.

My visit is part of a nature-focused, five-day trip to Baja California Sur, in Mexico. I’m traveling solo, and my itinerary includes a night in the artists’ enclave of Todos Santos, two nights of camping on Isla Espiritu Santo, and a night at the posh Baja Club in La Paz before I head home. But this moment, with dozens of sea lions swirling around me, tops the highlights reel.

Related: Eat, Sleep, Dive: A live-aboard dive trip to the Turks and Caicos

My guide has warned me not to grab or chase the creatures, but to let them come to me. And they do.

As I swim slowly into an underwater cave where a dozen animals have gathered, a sleek brown pup with blue marbles for eyes nips lightly on the sleeve of my wetsuit. I spin around, and another tugs on the scarf wrapped over my head. I laugh underwater, and they swim into the stream of diamond-like bubbles I exhale.

The sea lions seem thrilled to have visitors.

A night in Todos Santos in Baja California Sur

Los Colibris Casitas is perched on a hillside on the outskirts of Todos Santos, in Baja California Sur. Photo by Pam LeBlanc

To get here, I caught a direct flight from Austin to the main airport in Cabo San Lucas. Then I made the hour-and-15-minute drive to the artists’ enclave of Todos Santos, where I stayed the night at Los Colibris Casitas.

From the patio in front of my room at the boutique hotel, perched high on a bluff on the outskirts of town, I can see waves crashing onto the beach far below. Birds circle a fresh water estuary, and a forest of palm trees sways in the breeze.

I want to get a better sense of my surroundings, so Sergio Jauregui, the owner of Los Colibris and Todos Santos Eco Adventures, volunteers to give me a tour.

Todos Santos is an artists enclave in Baja California Sur, Mexico. Pam LeBlanc photo

We drive to the town’s center, where he gives me a history lesson as we walk the streets. A mission was built here in 1723, and the last battle of the Mexican-American War was fought nearby in 1848. For the next century, farmers grew sugarcane in the area, but when the town’s main spring dried up in 1950, people moved away.

Things changed again in 1981, when that spring revived. The government paved a road into town, bringing tourists. American surfers sought it out as an alternative to California’s crowded beaches. Then artists moved in, drawn by the golden light.

Today Todos Santos supports 27 galleries, several gourmet restaurants, and a smattering of hotels. The famous song by The Eagles comes to mind when we walk past a pale orange building called Hotel California. We admire murals in the cultural center, duck into an art gallery where tiny images of dancers twirl across colorful canvases, walk across the plaza, and poke our heads into a historic mission.

Onward to Isla Espiritu Santo, part of Baja California Sur

Todos Santos Eco Adventures leads guided camping trips to Espiritu Santo. Pam LeBlanc photo

The next day, I catch a ride to La Paz. The hour-long trip takes me past mountains and thickets of tall cactus, where birds somehow manage to perch without stabbing their toes.

It’s start day for the Baja 1000 car race, a 1,000-mile off-road scramble through the desert that draws souped-up dune buggies, tricked-out pickup trucks and beat up Volkswagen Bugs. I watch a few roll down the starting ramp and speed down the oceanfront boulevard, but I’m more interested in what lies beyond.

From La Paz, it takes about 45 minutes by boat to reach Isla Espiritu Santo, a popular destination for eco tourists. Along the way, we pass a noisy colony of blue-footed boobies. The birds, which show off their teal-colored feet to impress the opposite sex, look almost cartoonish. Frigate birds, with long forked tails and hooked bills, wheel overhead. Rust-colored hills bristle with cardon cacti, their long prickly arms extended skyward, and layer-cake cliffs jut into the sea.

RELATED: Slowing down to soak in the beauty of Big Bend

The boat pulls ashore in a cove, and we hoist our duffel bags onto the beach, where a crew has already set up tents. A bucket of water and a rug the size of a picnic table are arranged in front of each one, so we can rinse our feet before stepping inside. This is glamping, after all, and instead of a sleeping bag on the ground, we’ll be snoozing on real mattresses with sheets and pillows.

Guests dip their toes in the surf at Camp Cecil on Isla Espiritu Santo. Photo by Pam LeBlanc

Our guide, Andrea Hinojos, gives us a tour of Camp Cecil, another arm of Todos Santos Eco Adventures. At the far end of the cove stands a portable bathroom. There’s a solar shower, too, and, at the other end of the beach, a seating area complete with a cushy sofa. While the kitchen staff works on lunch, Hinojos briefs us on camp life.

We can use the kayaks or swim when we want, but hiking isn’t allowed past the dunes. But the ocean is the focus, anyway.

The sun rises over Camp Cecil on Espiritu Santo. Pam LeBlanc photo

That first night, just three other guests shared  the camp with me ––- Joe Oliver and Christine McEnery of Carmel Valley, California, and their friend Rob Goldman of Philadelphia. We hit it off immediately, sitting on beach chairs with our toes dangling in the surf and admiring our surroundings.

McEnery tells me she was looking for a natural experience when she decided to come to the camp.

“I wanted unspoiled nature and it’s not so easy to find that,” McEnery says. She loves outdoor adventure, just like me. “It’s the visuals – looking at the desert in one direction and thinking you’re in the (American) Southwest, and in the other direction it looks like the Caribbean.”

Her husband agrees. “It’s such a departure from work-a-day life of staring at a computer screen,” Oliver says. “It’s such a treat to see great views and have them untouched by developers.”

Diving into the Sea of Cortez

Kayakers glide along a cove on Espiritu Santo, near La Paz, Mexico. Pam LeBlanc photo

The ocean around the island is part of a marine park, and we spend a lot of time exploring it. We snorkel among pufferfish and angelfish. Sea turtles the size of car tires glide beneath us. I dive down to get a closer look at a starfish.

One evening, we push off in kayaks, and paddle past mangroves flush with chirping birds. I can’t take my eyes off a pair of pelicans sitting on a rocky island as the sun sets behind them.

“It’s very beautiful,” Hinojos says, then references ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau, who spent time in the area. “It’s secluded. There are no people living here so it’s like a virgin island in the ‘Aquarium of the World.’”

And the food is far from what I’d eat on a regular camping trip. Instead of freeze-dried meals or hotdogs, chefs bring out trays of grilled fish, nachos, ceviche, and flank steak. For breakfast we have huevos rancheros and fresh fruit, and every evening we sample a new cocktail and snacks.

A night in La Paz

I love ocean swimming so much that the guides arrange one last outing before I head back to the mainland.

I leave my snorkel in the boat and dive down deep, touching the white sand on the bottom. It’s here, with the turtles and angelfish, that I feel most at home.

But finally, my water taxi arrives. I towel off and let the wind dry my hair as we speed back to civilization. In La Paz, I check into the Baja Club, then take some time to stroll along the beachfront. That night, I climb the stairs to the rooftop bar, where I sip a margarita and stare at the islands in the distance.

I’m officially spoiled.

Getting there:

American Airlines offers a non-stop flight from Austin to San Jose del Cabo, the nearest major airport to La Paz.

In Todos Santos, stay at Los Colibris Casitas . Book a multi-day trip to Camp Cecil on Isla Espiritu Santo through Todos Santos Eco Adventures. In La Paz, pamper yourself at Baja Club Hotel .

Scuba dive with sea lions at Isla Illotes. I went with The Cortez Club . Camp, hike, birdwatch, kayak and snorkel at Camp Cecil.

Eat & Drink:

I loved the atmosphere at the bar at Baja Club in La Paz, and the on-site restaurant serves excellent flank steak and fresh fish.

If you’re traveling with others, divide your camera gear among each other for the inbound flight. Just two cameras (or lenses) per person are allowed free of charge, and you might be charged taxes on any gear beyond that. I carried in a camera, a GoPro and two extra lenses and had to pay $154 in taxes – a surprise I hadn’t expected.

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RV Touring: Baja Adventure

Story by Dan and Lisa Goy

Photos from Maggie Dumbarton

B aja has always been Mexico’s frontier, not unlike the north in Canada. Even the Conquistador, Hernan Cortez, who first arrived on the Yucatan Peninsula and eventually conquered the Aztecs, never stepped on the Baja Peninsula until 1536. The two Baja States were the last to become proclaimed in the United Mexican States – Baja California in the north (1953), and Baja California Sur in the south (1974).  

The Baja Peninsula states have twice as much coastline as their northern US sister known in Mexico as Alta California (State of California) with the Pacific Ocean on the west and Sea of Cortez on the east. The Mexican Federal Highway No. 1 (Hwy 1) was completed in 1973 and runs 1711 km (1061 miles) from the US Mexican Border to Cabo San Lucas. RV’ers have made this magnificent peninsula a snowbird destination since the highway opened, staying on beaches, RV parks, campgrounds and on the desert.

Is Baja Mexico Safe?   What about the Banditos?  

Sadly, we never seem to be able to talk about RV’ing in Baja without someone asking these questions. Not surprising given the significant negative media campaign about violence in Mexico over the past few years. The reality is that bad things happen everywhere in the world including Canada and the United States and these facts should not make us afraid to travel or leave our homes. We travel through the region on a regular basis, and we have never felt threatened or afraid.  

Steeped in History  

Mexico has a very colourful and interesting history, which makes it fascinating to explore. This country hosted many Pre-Columbian Mesoamerica cultures and advanced civilizations including Olmecs, Toltec, Teotihaucans, Maya, and Aztec. After 4,000 years, these civilizations were destroyed with the arrival of Hernan Cortez and Spain in 1519.

Several groups of indigenous people populated the Baja prior to the Spanish arriving and sadly the vast majority of the Baja Indians have disappeared. Those that have survived in the north are represented by as few as a dozen individuals or as many as a few hundred.  

Preparing for your Visit

The most important preparation for a trip to Mexico begins in Canada. You must have a valid passport. Be sure to check the expiration date, you should not be travelling with a passport that will expire within 6 months. You must also have Mexican Vehicle Insurance, which can be purchased on-line through many companies. We buy ours at a discount through the Discover Baja Travel Club. https://www.discoverbaja.com/ This insurance must also be purchased for your towed vehicle if you have one.

What Should you Purchase Before you Go?  

As with any RV trip outside of Canada, always buy extra health insurance.  

Mexico has good medical facilities at very reasonable rates, but you should consider your travel through the States. We purchase our medical insurance through BCAA at good rates. MEDIPAC is also a great optional provider.  

A good Baja camping book is also a must! We recommend “Baja Camping” by Mike & Teri Church. It is always good to have American dollars and Mexican pesos prior to entering Baja. We suggest purchasing some of each before you leave home. ATM’s for pesos are readily available throughout Baja and credit cards are usually accepted in larger centres.  

Where Should you Cross   the Border into Baja?  

There are four main crossings into Baja, which include San Ysidro, Otay Mesa at Tijuana, Tecate and Mexicali. We usually cross just east of San Diego at Tecate and avoid the big city scene of TJ and Mexicali.  

When you cross into Mexico this is a good time to get your Tourist Permit or Visa ( FMM ) which are obtained at the Immigration office. A small fee is then payable at the bank. You are then required to return to the immigration office to complete the process. You will need two pieces of I.D. including your passport. We always get our pre-paid FMMs from the Discover Baja Travel Club, which eliminates the bank visit and makes this experience one stop shopping. When you return with your RV to start your Baja adventure you will be required to stop and your RV will likely be inspected for items that may be taxed, if you have nothing to declare you can just drive on through and watch for signs to the Mex 2 or Highway 3 and signs to Ensenada. We always take our RV Caravans south on Mex 2 Toll and return on Highway 3.

Military Checkpoints are something you will encounter several times as you travel the Baja.  These can be a little intimidating with young men standing around in camouflage uniforms carrying guns, but they are here for our protection. Going south they usually wave us through (this is why we like to have the Canadian Flag stickers on the back of the side mirrors), they are looking for guns and drugs, as Canadians we pose no threat.  On our return north we will be asked to stop and inspected.  Sometimes they want to see your passports and will ask where you came from and where you are going (today).  Usually they will ask you all to get out so they can do a quick inspection.  They are looking for drugs.  We have always found the soldiers to be very pleasant, courteous and trustworthy.  When it is your turn at the checkpoint, remove your sunglasses before speaking to the soldier.  If you have a pet it should be somewhere they can see it as you approach the checkpoint.  If they request you to get out of the vehicle, take the time to leash your pet and bring it out with you.  We advise you do not pick up hitchhikers because you do not know who they are or what they are carrying.

What is Important to Know About In-town Driving?  

Often when you get off the main highway in a city, town or village you can experience narrow roads which can be a challenge driving a large RV. Add parked vehicles on either side, jaywalking pedestrians, barking dogs and running children and it really gets exciting! In addition you may find very unique road signage, including stop signs.  

Highway driving can also be a challenge in Mexico. Much of Mex 1 can be narrow and without a shoulder, however for the most part this highway is very good and always undergoing improvement, with wider lanes and paved shoulders. Take your time, its part of the adventure.  

The do’s and don’ts about passing and turning are vital to know. On the highway, when it is OK for passing, the vehicle in front of you will put on their left turn signal – this is giving you the all clear to pass. When a vehicle actually wants to make a left turn, 4-way flashers are used.  

No Night Driving!  

This is a rule that should be strictly followed on Baja. This is an extremely dangerous practice and it is not because of Banditos! Animals come to the roads at night for the warmth and greenery on the edge. Outside of town there are no street lights, it is really dark. Remember these are roads you are not familiar with.  

Have you Heard of the   Green Angels?  

This is Mexico’s Roadside Assistance who patrol Mex 1 on a regular basis. We know breakdowns do happen! The Government operated Green Angels travel the entire length of Baja twice a day, once in the morning then again in the afternoon.  

The Mexican government maintains a large fleet of these green vehicles across Mexico’s major highways on the lookout for travelers and tourists alike that have broken down. In many ways this is very similar to the service offered by BCAA or AAA. They normally travel in pairs and on the Baja speak some English. They are in radio communication with their base and can call for a tow. The service is free except any supplies you might use. In the event you use their service please provide a tip!  

What About Fuel?  

PEMEX is the gas station of choice for both gas and diesel as they are the only company (government owned) selling these products. This is a cash transaction (pesos or US dollars); however receipts are available on request. Normally this is a full serve experience and we recommend you do not leave your vehicle when the attendant is filling. Paying in US $ means you are paying more.  

Where Should we Camp?  

There are many full service and partial hook-up RV parks which include hot showers, flush toilets and laundry. Most have WIFI; some parks have pools and small restaurants. Often they are somewhat rustic compared to the RV Parks available in the US or Canada, but remember they are half to a third the price.  

Rule number 2; NEVER, NEVER, NEVER CAMP ALONE! Any incidents we have ever heard of (count on one hand) always involve people camping alone, on a beach, in the middle of nowhere. Travelling in pairs always eliminates this or simply camp with others.

El Requeson is the 10th of 12 camping beaches on Bahia Concepcion and a favourite for many RVers. This is a short sand spit which connects a small island to the mainland at low tide, very picturesque indeed. Only pit toilets, nothing else. Vagabundos del Mar Trailer Park in Cabo San Lucas is very popular and one of our favourites.  

This is a full service RV park that includes laundry, 2 washrooms and Hot Showers, a heated swimming pool, an excellent Restaurant, walking distance to Cabo San Lucas, close to everything.

What About the water?  

This is the second most commonly asked question about RV’ing in Mexico. Although Baja has aquifers across the entire peninsula, purified water is available everywhere from Mini-Supers to Purified Water Outlets designed specifically to refill your water bottles.  

What About our Pets?  

You must ensure you have all pet shots up to date with papers. Although it is doubtful anyone will check on the way into Mexico, the American Border Services may check as you re-enter the US. Pet food availability is good; however not all brands! You should know that only “made in USA” dry food is permitted across the US Border when you return north.  

What to do on Baja?  

Where do we start? You can touch Grey Whales in Scammon’s Lagoon in Guerrero Negro , Malarrimo provides an excellent Eco-Tour. Visit the stunning 2nd oldest Mission in all of the Californias’ 35 km from Loreto in San Javier. Tour the historic “Hotel California” made famous by the Rock Band “Eagles” in Todos Santos. The list is truly endless!

We believe no matter what method you choose for your Baja adventure it is well worth it! We promise this magnificent peninsula is far more than just a spectacular RV destination, for many it is a life changing journey that you are likely to repeat for years to come.

For more information, please   contact Dan and Lisa Goy at   Baja Amigos RV Caravan Tours,   1-866-999-BAJA (2252),   e-mail [email protected] or   visit http://bajaamigos.net/

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Choral Pepper: A Baja Explorer and Author By David Kier

Choral pepper: a baja california explorer and author.

By David Kier

One of Baja California’s biggest promoters from the 1960s until her passing in 2002 was author Choral Pepper. Choral Pepper’s books and magazine articles kept her readers motivated and inspired to go outdoors to make their own discoveries. Those that could not travel were kept fully entertained by her writings.

My awareness of Choral Pepper came about from reading about her and seeing her in many photos in mystery novelist Erle Stanley Gardner’s 1967 adventure book, Off the Beaten Track in Baja . Choral and husband Jack Pepper wrote for and published Desert Magazine during the 1960s. One day, Mr. Gardner dropped in on the Desert Magazine office in Palm Desert, California, and invited the Pepper’s to join him and his crew on an upcoming Baja expedition. Erle Stanley Gardner explored the desert southwest and Baja California when he was on break from writing and reviewing scripts for the Perry Mason television show (Gardner created the character Perry Mason).

Gardner took care of all expenses for these expeditions and that included using helicopters to reach places and see things nobody has seen since the primitive Indians lived in the remote Baja California mountains. Giant cave paintings that few knew of outside of the mountain ranchos were publicized. They continue to be a major income source for the local economy nearly fifty years later.

While riding in a helicopter, Choral spotted a large painting at the top of a 100-foot cliff. It could not be seen from the canyon floor. On board the copter was Mexico’s national archeologist, Dr. Carlos Margain who insisted the site be known as “Pepper Cave.” Choral vowed to have such an honor would require her to actually go to the cave, which she and J.W. Black did by climbing up the cliff face. The helicopter pilot and Dr. Margain watched and took photos from across the canyon.

Desert Magazine had many great Baja California travel articles from Choral and others. Choral continued to write for the magazine after she and Jack split-up and after he sold the magazine. Her 1973 book, Baja California: Vanished Missions, Lost Treasures, Strange Stories Tall and True was a fantastic motivator for me (then in high school) to research and write more about the missions. Choral inspired me to search for the mysteries of Baja’s past, and to someday meet this interesting lady. Choral had reminding me of my own mother who also could mix class and camping with ease.

The next 25 years found Choral Pepper traveling the world and writing many books, and painting art too. However, Baja California retained a special connection with Choral (she liked to be called “Corke”, with a silent e). Choral’s last home was a condo in Coronado, California with a view south to the coast of Baja California. This is where I met her after an exchange of emails because her popular Desert Lore of Southern California book publisher asked her to revise the 1973 Baja missions and mysteries book and she knew of my passion in this subject. The Baja mission book revision was postponed as Choral’s health deteriorated. Some of Choral’s writing will find a home in a new book I am currently working on about the Baja California missions.

In May 2001, Choral asked me to read the following to my guests at the Viva Baja celebration:

Dear Baja Buffs,

Behind his back, I call David " the new Erle Stanley Gardner." His love for Baja shares the same dedicated clarity and eagerness to share it as did Uncle Erle's. I am fortunate enough to have been one of those recipients in both cases. Erle shared it with his books. David shares it with his Viva Baja adventures.

I have reached a stage in life in which there is more to look back upon than forward to. It is not depressing. What I have to look back upon was so filled with adventure, learning and beauty that nothing in my limited future could surpass it. There are very few places in the world that I did not explore during my exciting years as a nationally syndicated travel columnist after selling Desert Magazine, but of all the places in the world, Baja stands alone. Not just because it was more isolated in those days (places like Yap and Zamboanga were isolated, too), but because there is a spiritual quality about Baja that seeps into the very soul of those who respond to it. Everyone doesn't., but you who are here at David's Viva Baja event tonight know exactly what I mean. We Baja buffs share a space foreign to superficial types unaware of the peninsula’s unique nature, mysterious history, and tantalizing lore.

During my early days of exploring the desert, I found that the public can be induced to respect such back country areas as Baja -- not by rules and regimentation, but by education. And the education begins by making its history exciting and adventurous. When someone goes looking for a lost treasure, for instance, they are forced to thoroughly research the area. They aren't just spinning wheels over meaningless, empty land. With knowledge, comes respect.

You all who participate in David's Viva Baja are doing your part to insure a secure future for Baja. I salute you and would love to be sharing this evening with you. Sometimes when you are out there trampling through dry, rock-studded arroyos or watching the moon rise above a cardón forest, send a thought to me. I'll be sharing it with you in spirit.

Choral Pepper

Choral requested that her manuscript, along with the collection of photos and letters from her Desert Magazine Baja trips, be passed on to me. It was in this collection that the letter from Walter Henderson was found, providing directions to a “rock-pile” he found in the 1930s while exploring northwest of San Felipe. Research performed by Henderson seemed to indicate the rock-pile was the lost 1541 grave of Spanish explorer Melchior Diaz, the first European to walk into California. Baja is indeed a land of adventure and historic wonders!

To see many of the photographs from the collection, visit the Choral Pepper website.

About David

David Kier is a veteran Baja traveler and the co-author of 'The Old Missions of Baja and Alta California 1697-1834. Visit The Old Missions website.

Excellent online and by direct phone. Spanish and English with proven response to questions. ... te is very informative about driving in Mexico and places to see. My highest recommendation. Prof Rochin

I ALWAYS forget to get insurance on our Mexico trips but Baja Bound makes it so easy- I can do it ... from my phone in the car on the way and it’s easy and quick every time! What a relief!

Anytime we cross the border, I go to BAJA BOUND and purchased insurance online. It’s easy and the ... e website is thorough in explaining what you’re buying. I won’t drive in Baja with out it!

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Hook & Barrel A Lifestyle Magazine for Modern Outdoorsmen

A baja adventure.

• By Hook & Barrel Contributor
• December 30, 2022

Peace Vans  is hitting the road this winter for a Baja Adventure, bringing their vintage VW Vanagons to sunny Mexico for an  exclusive pop-up vacation experience . For the first time, adventurers will have the opportunity to experience a Peace Vans curated camping trip in Baja, exploring new culture, exciting excursions, and scrumptious local cuisine while road-tripping and camping in expertly renovated 1980s vintage campers.

Peace Vans has partnered with local Baja-based businesses to offer just twenty-four vacation packages from January through April 2023, with custom-tailored itineraries that guide campers on a pre-planned loop for six nights and seven days around the peninsula.

Travelers drive on safe, main roads to pre-vetted and reserved private campsites in La Paz, Cerritos, La Ventana, and Los Barriles. At each destination, a wide range of epic adventures are offered, from swimming with whale sharks to surfing, kite surfing, paddle boarding, snorkeling, fishing. The experts at Peace Vans will help travelers custom-build their itinerary to suit their style of travel, from more relaxing excursions to downright high-energy adventures.

It has been a dream of Peace Vans Owner Harley Sitner to offer a “trip of a lifetime” vacation opportunity like this in Baja, as he reflects on special memories of the incredible experience he had traveling there with his 12-year-old child, Eden.

“Traveling in Baja is just a whole different world where you can relax, take your time, get away from work and technology, and just live in the moment enjoying nature and culture,” says Sitner. “Ever since my first trip down the peninsula in 1993, I’ve dreamed of deepening a connection to this special place, and after a recent road trip with Eden in a vintage VW Vanagon, I knew bringing Peace Vans there was the way to do it.”

One of the most important connections Sitner has secured to make these trips possible is his partnership with long-time friend and fellow vintage van expert Shane Jordan of Live the Van Life Restorations in La Paz. Shane and his wife, Karen, live full time in La Paz, where they are raising their young family and are thrilled to share the unique culture of Baja with the Peace Vans family.

All vans for Baja travel are restored by the experts at Peace Vans, headquartered in Seattle. With over $25,000 of work, each van has upgrades to make the camping and driving experience truly delightful. While traveling, customers have access to 24/7 support through Jordan and the Peace Vans team in La Paz. All questions and needs will be met on this amazing adventure—with the incredible service customers expect from Peace Vans.

Vacation packages are $2750 (taxes and fees included) for six nights/seven days and include a pop-up camper that sleeps up to four people, campground reservations (duration at each of the four locations are customizable based on excursion preferences and where travelers want to spend time), transportation to/from the airport, and concierge service to plan the best possible adventure itinerary. Additional nights can be added.

For more information on Peace Vans and the Baja pop-up location, please visit  peacevans.com/baja .

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Where to Go in Todos Santos, Mexico for a Tranquil Beach Getaway

By Christina Pérez and Ella Riley-Adams

We may earn a commission if you buy something from any affiliate links on our site.

There are a lot of unmarked roads in Mexico’s Baja California Sur. You see them from the smooth highway that connects the sleepy town of Todos Santos to the glossy resorts of Los Cabos an hour south, their dusty trails carving mysterious paths through fields dotted with giant cardón cacti. They look a little intimidating, but as one local told me during a recent visit, “when you see a dirt road in Baja, you should take it. There’s always something interesting at the other end.”

And, as the saying goes, fortune favors the bold—and those who’ve rented a car with four-wheel drive. The slow exploration of these roads yields a trove of discoveries: An oasis where the mouth of an underground spring feeds a grove of palm trees with fronds as green as a desert mirage. Or, a secluded beach where cerulean waves crash between a craggy, mermaid cove.

This wild sense of possibility has drawn a small stream of travelers to Todos Santos for decades. Some come to surf the nearby breaks, widely regarded as among the country’s best. Others, to wander the cobblestone streets lined with tiny artisan shops and refurbished haciendas in the old part of town. The area is so enchanting that in 2006, the Mexican government designated Todos Santos a Pueblo Mágico—one of just 100 or so small towns honored for its natural beauty, cultural riches, or historical relevance.

Now, with a couple of new dreamy, design-forward hotels and a set of chefs who are taking full advantage of the area’s fresh produce, Todos Santos is more appealing than ever. Here’s where to go and what to do when you visit.

The lobby at Paradero with rooms in view.

The property’s infinity pool.

By Margaux Anbouba

By Marie Bladt

By Alexandra Macon

A bedroom at Paradero.

Paradero co-founders Pablo Carmona and Joshua Kremer designed their Todos Santos property with the intention of connecting visitors to the environment. Tucked away amid farmland—the dirt-road drive to the property is lined with poblano peppers, and a field of sunflowers can’t help but become an Instagram attraction at sunset—and framed by the Sierra de la Laguna mountains, the property lets its surroundings set the tone. Minimalist rooms decorated in soothing sandy shades look out on endless green orchards, as does the infinity pool. Ground floor guests get sizable circular bathtubs or hammocks, while those on the upper floor have “star nets” to lounge in for constellation-spotting. Plant enthusiasts will appreciate the “Learn to Garden” experience which gives an overview of the area’s botany and provides an opportunity to pick vegetables that will then be prepared by the Paradero chef for that evening’s dinner. (The kitchen, which is worth a visit even if you’re not staying on property, is generally focused on highlighting local ingredients—many of them grown just steps away—at every meal.) It’s easy to spend an entire day poolside, consuming a steady stream of spicy margaritas while intermittently marveling over a cactus-perched iguana or curious roadrunner. And if you overdo it? The spa offers a special anti-inflammatory sun recovery treatment of aloe and tepezcohuite.

Hotel San Cristóbal

A suite with beach views at Hotel San Cristóbal.

Colorful tiles abound.

Perched on a fishing beach called Punta Lobos about 15 minutes south of town is the 32-room Hotel San Cristóbal from the Texas-based Bunkhouse Group, where every single element—from swirly tiled floors to brightly woven blankets and terra-cotta-potted cacti—has been painstakingly executed for maximum sensory enjoyment. There’s a specifically modern delight that comes from noticing all the small details that make up the sum: The candlesticks in the library with their artfully dripped wax, the three large fireplaces tucked into different nooks, the curtains in the guest rooms with their pretty bamboo pulls, and the woodsy smoke of copal incense that trails you wherever you go. Even the setting of the sun—which is marked each evening with the ringing of a giant gong—feels perfectly orchestrated; it dips below the horizon in exact alignment with the pool, allowing for unobstructed views of the glowing Pacific from wherever you choose to lounge.

The staff is made up almost entirely of locals who are quick to point out the region’s many treasures and the activities on offer to guests include several volunteer opportunities, like shepherding baby sea turtles back to the sea or fostering a local pup or helping out on one of the region’s farms. The hotel’s restaurant, Benno, is helmed by chef Alberto Collarte, who focuses his Baja-Mediterranean menu on the day’s fresh catch from the fishermen who share the beach with the hotel (and, if you so desire, will teach you how to make your own ceviche).

A stone’s throw from Cerritos Beach in Pescadero is El Perdido , a hotel made up of seven jacales, or huts, connected by cacti-framed pathways and common areas that include a fire pit and a pool lined with sumptuous sun beds. Activities abound with an outdoor pool table, ping pong, and foosball, though this is no basement game room. Thatched roofs let slivers of sun stream in, while rammed-earth walls on two sides keep the space calm and cool. Guests also get access to surfboards and an ATV to drive to the beach. Coyote, the on-site restaurant that’s open to everyone, serves up seasonal dishes focused on local fish from a classic Airstream trailer.

Casa Notturno

Casa Del Arte

Todos Santos has a wide array of Airbnbs on offer, among them Casa Notturno , a modernist home built into the hills just outside of town. With three bedrooms and four bathrooms—as well as a sunken living room—it’s perfect for a group stay. Stylish furnishings, a spacious kitchen, and a heated pool make it an ideal refuge after a long day at the beach. If Notturno is booked, try Casa Del Arte , a palm tree-dotted estate with arch-filled interiors, an outdoor kitchen, and a curving private pool. Stop by nearby Las Tunas Coffeeshop for an iced latte and farm-to-table breakfast in an airy setting.

La Bohemia is a collection of six whitewashed adobe rooms tucked into an oasis of palm trees and cacti just a few blocks from the historic town center. Owned by a pair of Cali transplants who decided to put down roots in Baja after taking a road trip to the area several years ago, the sweet hotelito incorporates many traditional elements in its design: Otomi embroidered headboards, hand-painted Talavera tiles, and hand-woven textiles. 

The best pastries in town are made by Julyanna Ortega and her team at Taller 17 . Every morning brings a fresh array of sweets, from cinnamon buns to lemon meringue pie and a blondie that will stick in your mind for months after. This is the place to get cold brew, too.

You can’t go wrong with the farm-to-table fare at Jazamango , where chef Javier Plascencia serves up a menu of locally sourced fish—oysters, ceviche—as well as crowd-pleasers like burrata with heirloom tomatoes and wood-fired pizzas. Diners eat al fresco beneath vine-covered canopies at tables that are strategically placed so each party feels like they have their own private corner.

Hierbabuena

Outside of town, take advantage of the area’s stellar agriculture by dining on wood-fired pizza and super fresh salads at Hierbabuena , a sweet alfresco restaurant located within an organic farm.

The Green Room

A drink at The Green Room is worth having anytime, but especially so at sunset, when surfers are getting their last waves of the day and you can watch them from the restaurant with your feet in the sand and a mezcal in hand.

Barracuda Cantina

Barracuda Cantina is now serving up tacos and cocktails at Plaza Amigos, a downtown community space with shops, various food purveyors, and plenty of space to eat outside. Their original location is at Cerritos Beach, and both spots serve fresh ceviche and fish tacos (along with a fried avocado taco that will please vegetarians).

Surfing has a long history in Baja culture, and Playa Cerritos, located about 20 minutes south of town, is no doubt the most popular beach for newbies and experts alike; it’s relatively easy to get to (down another dirt road) and offers both a gentle beach break and a more adventurous rocky point break. Boards, wetsuits, and lessons are available from Mario Surf School , which is located in a tent on the north end of the beach near the Hacienda.

For those who prefer dry land adventures, the surrounding Sierra de la Laguna mountain range is ideal for hiking and mountain biking. One popular hike is to the top of Punta Lobos, which affords breathtaking views of an abandoned fishing port where a sea lion colony has made its home.

Horseback Riding

Suez Taylor grew up riding horses competitively—as in, Team USA. She moved to Todos Santos in 2017. During the pandemic, she began rescuing local horses in need of rehabilitation and built up a stable at her home, eventually starting a pony club for girls in her neighborhood as a way to get them outdoors when school was online. Also a journalist and filmmaker, she’s a lively and deeply knowledgeable guide who leads outbacking trips in the mountains, as well as mounted meditation sessions and sunset beach rides to the Green Room through her company Equus Sur .

Wandering the streets of Todos Santos and popping into the local artisan shops is a joy, with everything ranging from Baja hoodie sweatshirts (remarkably appropriate given the cool desert temps in the mornings and evenings) to intricately patterned handwoven textiles. Hilo Rojo , just down the street from Taller 17, offers clothes and curios, all made by Mexican artisans, such as whimsical beaded brooches and silk shirts with Lotería-inspired patterns. If you’re lucky, shop owner Paola de la Rosa will be there with her pug, Horchata. Then make your way to artist Fernanda Cov’s bookshop and ceramics studio-slash-gallery , marked by its teal exterior with blue lettering that announces: I Am a Bookshop.

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"Rocky, wild and unpredictable" — why Baja California is ideal offroading country

Unfurling for more than 750 miles down a stick-thin peninsula, Baja California has long been known for water adventures — but new off-roading tours help travellers see it from a different perspective.

Gripping the roof handle and staring silently over the dashboard, I avert my gaze from the 160ft drop to my left. There’s just six inches of dirt road standing between us and the cliff edge: one wrong move from our driver, and the pickup truck we’re in is going straight into the Sea of Cortez.

The first time I visited Mexico’s Baja California, the world’s second-longest peninsula, it was on a backpacking trip through Central America. I hitchhiked and bussed over 650 miles from Tijuana, on the border with the US, to Todos Santos, just short of Baja’s most southerly point, Cabo San Lucas. Travelling along the Carretera Transpeninsular, I stopped at every major town along Baja’s main highway, wine-tasting in Ensenada, whale-watching in Guerrero Negro and swimming with sea lions on Espiritu Santo Island.

During those long drives, I’d stare out at the stark desert landscape for hours: salt-encrusted greasewood shrubs and giant cardón cacti sprouted from swathes of sand and clay-red mountains, which often turned candyfloss pink at sunset. But what caught my eye were the narrow dirt tracks, hundreds of them crisscrossing the desert like a map drawn in the sand, veering off the highway towards sun-baked sierras and hidden turquoise coves. One day, I thought to myself, I’d return to Baja California to see where those roads led.

Five years on, I’ve come to La Paz, in the south of the Baja California peninsula, to join Baja Expeditions’ first-ever overlanding trip. The company has specialised in whale-watching, kayaking and wild camping in the state since the 1970s, but has recently branched out with off-roading tours to encourage visitors to explore the peninsula’s less-visited interior.

“People think Baja is just beaches and whales,” says our driver Mike Thorneycroft, a Canadian who moved to Baja California in 2020. “But it’s more than that. These trips are about getting people out of the resorts and into Baja’s least-visited communities, and learning some of their history and culture.”

Mike gets us past the cliff edge safely, manoeuvring around asteroid-sized potholes and boulders with ease as we climb up and over Sierra de la Laguna, part of a mountain range that connects Baja California Sur, the southern state of Baja California, with southern California in the US.  

On slightly wider roads, I start to relax and take in the views: unlike the parched desert I’d seen from the highway years ago, these mountains are lush from recent hurricane rains, flourishing with lime-green mesquite trees and pink and yellow wildflowers. We cross arroyos — dry riverbeds that fill up after heavy rainfall — flowing with crystalline water, where orange butterflies and free-roaming piglets from a nearby ranch are taking a drink. A vulture and a flaming red cardinal bird join soon after.

“Baja California is perfect for off-roading,” says Mike, who organises and competes in long-distance off-road rallies across the state. “The roads are rocky, wild and unpredictable, changing quickly in the rainy season. But that’s what makes it exciting.”

Near the former silver-mining town of   El Triunfo, we stop at the Santuario de los Cactus, a community-run garden with some   of the oldest and rarest cacti on earth, including the cardón, the world’s largest cactus. The garden’s grey-moustached volunteer caretaker, Guadalupe ‘Lupe’ Gonzalez, shows us around, pointing out which cacti fruits are edible and how to extract water from their flesh. He also shows us cacti species used to treat kidney stones, stomach aches and open wounds.

“I learnt about the medicinal properties of cacti from the rancheros (ranchers),” says Lupe, caressing the spines of a 400-year-old cactus as if they were whiskers. He’s been caring for the plants here for more than 30 years and offers guided tours of the garden for a small donation. “But this knowledge comes from the Indians. There are none left here now, but we know how to survive in the desert because of them.”

Before the Spanish arrived, Baja California was inhabited by three major Indigenous groups: the Cochimí, the Guaycura and the Pericú. Ancient rock paintings in Sierra de San Francisco, around 465 miles north of where I am and described by UNESCO as some of the most impressive collections of rock paintings in the world, suggest that these tribes had lived on the peninsula for at least 10,000 years.  

Although the Spanish colonised Baja California much later than Mexico’s mainland, around the late 17th century, the culture and history of these local Indigenous groups was erased more quickly than in the rest of Mexico. Some experts believe this is because the region’s Indigenous groups were nomadic hunter-gatherers, who lacked the big cities and societal structures that helped preserve the legacies of the Mayans and Aztecs in other Mexican states. Today, very few Indigenous groups remain, with most living in the north of Baja California.

After a few hours of driving along the spectacular Barriles Santa Teresa coastal road, we make the steep descent to Palo Blanquito beach, where we’ll be spending the night. It’s a wild strip of sand, where milky-red cliffs crumble into a dazzling turquoise sea studded with volcanic rock. Come sunset, it’s just our truck on the beach and a flock of pelicans floating on the dead-still water, like rubber ducks in a jade-coloured bath. We eat refried beans and chicken burritos under the stars, watching a brilliant-white crescent moon rise over the water. That night, I sleep to the sound of the waves lapping gently at the shoreline.

The next morning, I watch the beach come to life from my tent. As the sun rises above the horizon, the sea turns from liquid silver to light pink, illuminating the inside of the tent with a warm glow. A family of pelicans — each one resembling a light aircraft — skim across the water with mouths agape, hoping to catch one of the flying fish backflipping through the air. Eager to join the action, I roll out of the tent and into the sea, plunging head first into the crystal-clear water with my mask and snorkel. Below the surface is an underwater city made of coral and volcanic rock, and colourful fish: I see a long, translucent cornetfish; a tiny cortez rainbow wrasse; and an enormous shoal of California yellowtail, the soft morning light bouncing off their tinfoil-like skin. It’s tempting to stay longer on this wild, empty beach, lounging on the rocks and floating in the warm turquoise waters as the resident pelicans do. But Mike has packed up camp and started the engine — it’s time to continue our journey through the desert roads of Baja California. “That’s the thing with overlanding,” says Mike, opening the passenger door for me to get in. “There’s always one more road to explore.”

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Escape Cancun crowds: 8 quieter Mexico beach towns for your next vacation

• Cancun is one of the world’s top tourist destinations, but there are a plethora of other, less popular Mexican beach towns just waiting to enchant travelers.
• From charming surf towns to snorkeling along sea turtles, travelers should explore the diverse beauty of the rest of Mexico’s expansive coastline.
• With no shortage of warm weather, sun and surf throughout Mexico, these destinations offer a quieter, less crowded experience.

Cancun reigns as one of the world’s top tourist destinations, and there’s no mystery why. The Caribbean Sea-adjacent locale has a myriad of sprawling beach resorts, clear turquoise waters and a vibrant nightlife. In 2023, Cancun welcomed over 21 million tourists .

While Cancun is beautiful and lively, there are a plethora of other, less popular Mexican beach towns just waiting to enchant travelers. From charming surf towns to snorkeling along sea turtles, travelers should explore the diverse beauty of the rest of Mexico’s expansive coastline.

With no shortage of warm weather, sun and surf throughout Mexico, these destinations offer a quieter, less crowded experience than enjoying Cancun alongside 30 million other tourists. 

Far Homes spotted hidden gems across Mexico’s coast, looking at the destinations’ natural beauty, recreational activity offerings, safety and accessibility to learn and experience the local culture. To assess each town’s safety ratings, Far Homes released a report looking at crime statistics from data by the Executive Secretary of the National Security System. While some of these spots are known to attract tourists, they’re nowhere near as saturated as Cancun or Cabo. 

Here are eight under-the-radar beach towns in Mexico to consider adding to your travel list.

Learn more: Best travel insurance

Cancun without the crowds: Meet Isla Mujeres, a quieter Mexican getaway

Located about an hour from Puerto Vallarta, Sayulita perfectly balances bustling and mellow energy. “Sayulita is a fun little town full of eclectic restaurants and shops,” said Gene Alvarez, a local real estate agent from Net Real Estate who works with Far Homes. “With several great surf breaks and a laid-back atmosphere, it attracts surfers, backpackers, and bohemians.” It’s easy to get around for travelers not well-versed in Spanish, and many people rent mopeds or golf carts to cruise around the town. While the main beach in town, Playa Sayulita, can be crowded for both surfers and beachgoers, travelers can head north to the neighboring village of Playa San Pancho for quieter, more serene beaches.

Fly into Cancun Airport and head about three hours south to Akumal for a quieter escape from Cancun and Tulum. Scoring high with Far Homes for its natural beauty, Akumal has become more known among travelers for its pristine beaches and lush jungles. Must-dos in Akumal include snorkeling with sea turtles in the clear waters of the marine protected area of Half Moon Bay and swimming in the enclosed cenote Yal-Ku Lagoon, said local real estate agent Rob Kinnon from BuyPlaya. Just 15 minutes south is the famous Tulum Archaeological Site, where Mayan ruins made of limestone sit perched upon a cliff.

Puerto Escondido

Located in the Pacific Ocean-facing state of Oaxaca, Puerto Escondido is a rising destination for its world-class surfing breaks and easy-going lifestyle. Travelers can fly directly to Puerto Escondido International Airport, less than two miles from town. “From the trendy bars of Zicatela to the laid back vibes of La Punta, the town has something for everyone,” said local real estate agent Jon Ferioli from Bayside Real Estate. “And with nods from international magazines, Puerto Escondido is quickly becoming the go-to spot for digital nomads seeking inspiration and connection.” The town scored high for its activities offerings. Even if you don’t want to brave the often powerful waves, travelers can go on crocodile boat tours through the mangroves, witness the glowing bioluminescent plankton in two of the nearby lagoons at night, or visit Casa Wabi, a contemporary art and architecture museum. 

Isla Holbox

If you’re really itching to escape the crowds, head to Isla Holbox, a 26-mile-long car-free island located right off the coast of the Yucatan Peninsula. While the island has grown in popularity and therefore development, it still offers travelers a secluded beachside retreat. Travelers can wander the streets, which are paved in sand, barefoot or in golf carts – the main mode of transportation on the skinny island. To get there, travelers fly to Cancun International Airport then travel by car for two hours to Chiquila to board a 15-minute ferry ride to the island. While it may take more effort to visit Isla Holbox over Cancun or Cabo, it’s well worth it. The resort town ranks high for natural beauty, including bioluminescent lagoons and whale shark tours, and safety. 

Those seeking out the sun and sand will find Huatulco to be paradise with its 36 beaches and nine bays, and endlessly sunny weather. Less developed than Puerto Vallarta and Cancun, the small resort town offers activities like kayaking, hiking waterfalls or scuba diving, and is bordered by the Huatulco National Park. Of course, travelers can just relax on the beach as well. To get there, travelers can fly into Bahias de Huatulco International Airport, a short hour-and-a-half flight from Mexico City. “The international airport is only 10 minutes away, and the area attracts tourists looking for a more authentic Mexican experience and small-town feeling,” said Brent May, founder and CEO of Bayside Real Estate. 

Located on the Pacific coast in Oaxaca, Zipolite’s former hippie culture is still retained with its laidback, rustic charm and a focus on eco-tourism. The community evolved around a hippie beach culture and has now become known for its excellent restaurants, bars, trendy boutique hotels, and low-key party culture,” said May. Over an hour’s drive from Puerto Escondido International Airport, the town scored high for activities and safety, and there are not as many tourist traps as in the more developed parts of Mexico. The massive Zipolite beach remains Mexico’s only legal nude beach, but there’s also a western end known for surfing and a small eastern bay called Playa del Amor that's known among the LGTBTQ+ community. “

This sleepy fishing village of Mahahual has grown in popularity among travelers, thanks partly to cruise ships. However, it still has much to offer travelers, ranking high for culture and safety by Far Homes. “This charming coastal town is best explored by bicycle,” said Gaby Ortiz, sales manager at Maya Ocean, a local real estate broker. “As you pedal through its scenic streets, you can lose track of time, immersed in the natural beauty and tranquility of your surroundings.” To get to Mahahual, travelers can fly into Chetumal International Airport and drive for about two hours. Travelers eager to experience vibrant marine life will find Mahahual to be the perfect destination. Spanning nearly 72 miles, the largest barrier reef system in Mexico and the Caribbean, Banco Chinchorro, is just an hour-long boat ride away. The UNESCO biosphere reserve is home to coral, American crocodiles, rays, turtles, nurse sharks and even sunken ships. On land, travelers can visit the Museum of Costa Maya and the Chacchoben Mayan ruins to learn more about local history and culture. 

Todos Santos 

About an hour’s drive from Los Cabos International Airport on Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula, Todos Santos is known as a haven for artists and creatives as well as its colonial architecture. Nestled between the coast and the desert, the town ranked highly for natural beauty, safety and culture with Far Homes. If travelers venture away from the bustling town center – home to boutique galleries, shops and restaurants – they can go surfing at the nearby Playa Los Cerritos or hike the coast of Punta Lobos. “At one time a small fishing village, Todos Santos now boasts several chic hotels and world-class dining, but it hasn’t lost its indie soul. Make sure to stop at Jazamango for a true Todos Santos dining experience,” said Nancy Costa, a local real estate agent with Costa Cabo Realty. 

Kathleen Wong is a travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Hawaii. You can reach her at [email protected] .

The Key Points at the top of this article were created with the assistance of Artificial Intelligence (AI) and reviewed by a journalist before publication. No other parts of the article were generated using AI. Learn more .

Welcome to Discover Baja Travel Club!

Hola and thanks for joining or renewing your membership with discover baja travel club we are pleased to have you as a member and look forward to helping you make the most of your baja travel. below you’ll find some information and helpful links to some of the resources that we provide., discover baja discount list.

Discover Baja members receive discounts at hotels, campsites, restaurants, bars, and activities throughout the peninsula. All you have to do is show your membership card. Check out the Discount List to see where you get a discount.

Mexican Auto Insurance

As a member of Discover Baja, you will save up to 80% on your annual Mexican vehicle insurance . Give us a call when you’re ready to make plans for a trip to Baja. We can now email your policy to you for even quicker service. Come into our office so we can visit with you and put a face to a voice or you can also get and print your own policy online . If you prefer to fill out a paper application to send to us, you can download our  Mexican Auto Insurance Application.

Fishing and Boating

If you’re a boat owner or fisherman, we’ve got you covered. DBTC members can get their Mexican Fishing Licenses through DBTC for the day, week, month or year. Download the  Mexican Fishing License Application to start the process. For those entering Baja by sea, Discover Baja can also process Nautical FMMs . Boat owners can get boat liability insurance as well as boat temporary importation permits through Discover Baja.

Discover Baja Newsletter

We’ll email you the Discover Baja newsletter each month. Through the newsletter we hope to keep you informed about issues on the peninsula. We welcome your contributions—send us any new information, road conditions, or pictures that you would like to share with all DBTC members. In the meantime, we invite you to check out past issues of the newsletter .

Other Helpful Links

-Discover Baja members receive a discount on Baja books, maps, DVDs, clothing and more! Check out the Discover Baja Gift Guide for more.

-Before heading down the peninsula, chech out our Road Conditions page so that you know what to expect

-We partnered with Baja Tourism to put together a handy  letter for you to print and have in your glove compartment in the case that you’re pulled over by the police. For more information on what to do if you’re pulled over by a cop in Baja read our helpful article .

Don’t forget to follow us on Facebook  for even more Baja stories and information!

We look forward to serving all of your baja needs as a member of our baja family., saludos, carol, jen, maythé, monica, and michelle.

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This Region of Mexico Was Named the Most Peaceful in the Country — and It Has a Stunning Coastline

The Gulf beaches and Mayan ruins of the Yucatán are as safe as they are beautiful.

Evie Carrick is a writer and editor who’s lived in five countries and visited well over 50. She now splits her time between Colorado and Paris, ensuring she doesn't have to live without skiing or L'As du Fallafel.

Marco Bottigelli/Getty Images

Travelers based in the U.S. love visiting Mexico — and for good reason. Flights tend to be short and affordable, the weather is almost always balmy, and the culture and coastline provide the perfect setting for relaxation .

However, the country has had several ups and downs over the years, with the U.S. Department of State issuing various travel warnings for parts of Mexico. But just as certain parts of the U.S. are safer than others, certain Mexico states provide a safe haven for travelers — offering that enticing blend of good food, good weather, and charm along with measures that keep visitors safe and at ease. 

To help travelers determine where in Mexico they should and shouldn’t go, the Institute for Economics and Peace released its annual Mexico Peace Index , which reviews trends in violence and crime to determine how peaceful each Mexican state actually is. The results provide the curious traveler with a guide to Mexico’s various states, which are ranked by how peaceful, or safe, they are. (The interactive map from Vision of Humanity shows how each state fared according to the indicators of peace.)

The safest state in Mexico, according to the peace index, is the Yucatán , which received a score of 1.314 on a scale of 1 to 5, where 1 is the most peaceful and 5 is the least peaceful. The rates of homicide, violent crime, weapons crime, and organized crime were extremely low in the Yucatán, while the “fear of violence” was rated slightly higher.

The Yucatán state sits on the Gulf of Mexico and is home to Mayan ruins, including the famed Chichén Itzá, which has a massive pyramid and stone temples. 

The following three states deemed the most peaceful — all with a score under 2 — are the tiny, inland state of Tlaxcala; Chiapas, which borders Guatemala and includes the colonial city of Cristóbal de las Casas; and the central and sparsely populated state of Durango, which is known for its desert and mountain terrain. All four states, with the exception of Durango, had the lowest possible rates of homicide, violent crime, weapons crime, and organized crime.

Here is the full list, in order from most to least peaceful. 1. Yucatán  Score: 1.314

2. Tlaxcala  Score: 1.609

3. Chiapas  Score: 1.738

4. Durango  Score: 1.961

5. Coahuila  Score: 2.074  6. Nayarit  Score: 2.080 

7. Tabasco  Score: 2.278 

8. Tamaulipas  Score: 2.328 

9. Aguascalientes  Score: 2.329

10. Hidalgo  Score: 2.336

11. Veracruz  Score: 2.370

12. Puebla  Score: 2.375

13. Campeche  Score: 2.381

14. Oaxaca  Score: 2.578 

15. Baja California Sur  Score: 2.609 

16. Querétaro  Score: 2.634 

17. Mexico City  Score: 2.726 

18. Jalisco  Score: 2.729

  19. Sinaloa  Score: 2.794 

20. San Luis Potosí  Score: 2.868 

21. Michoacán  Score: 3.000 

22. Sonora  Score: 2.254

23. Guerrero  Score: 2.271 

24. Mexico State  Score: 2.446 

25. Chihuahua  Score: 3.570 

26. Nuevo León  Score: 3.621 

27. Quintana Roo  Score: 3.678 

28. Zacatecas  Score: 3.791 

29. Guanajuato  Score: 4.055

30. Morelos   Score: 4.123 

31. Baja California  Score: 4.422 

32. Colima  Score: 4.742

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The call of Baja California surf is the stuff of legend. Has violence ended that dream?

SAN DIEGO — For the better part of the past half-century, Baja California has beckoned to surfers from across the globe, offering peeling point breaks without crowded lineups to those willing to travel and camp in remote and barren areas.

For many Southern California surfers, such excursions are the stuff of legend, a cherished ritual that groms read and hear stories about until they’re old enough for their own south-of-the-border adventures.

“It’s a surfer’s rite of passage,” said Ocean Beach resident Marty Albert. “It’s about the openness of Baja, where you feel like you’re not going to be bothered. It’s about the waves — point after point after point break, some of them 400 yards. It’s about being a cowboy, not taking showers, living out of your truck like the surfers of the ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s. We want those same experiences we read about our whole lives.”

That romantic vision was tainted recently by the shooting deaths of San Diegan Carter Rhoad, 30; his friend Callum Robinson, 33, an Australian living in San Diego; and Callum’s brother, Jake Robinson, 30, who was visiting from Australia.

The trio were on a surf trip late last month south of Ensenada when they went missing. Their bodies were discovered May 3 at the bottom of a well in Punta San José near Santo Tomás. Mexican officials said they were killed as the result of a botched robbery . A suspect who was arrested and charged with forced disappearance is expected to also face murder charges in the case.

“It makes me sick to my stomach,” Albert said. “They were just down there trying to do the same journey all of us have done.”

Now, some surfers and other Baja California adventurers are second-guessing what the future might hold for such trips. Some said the recent killings completely changed their future plans, others said they changed their routines years ago in the face of escalating risks and others said they won’t change their habits at all.

“It’s definitely unfortunate and was a really awful situation,” said Cameron Gregg, a freediver and spearfisherman who has made about 30 trips to the region over the past decade. “But it’s not going to affect how I travel down there. There are always going to be bad people everywhere in the world … But there are some of the nicest people down there. People there are very welcoming, very giving.”

The killings also brought into sharp focus the differences in experiences between visitors to the region and its residents. Baja California has one of the highest homicide rates in Mexico, with 2,417 homicides in the state last year and another 595 through the first three months of 2024, according to the Secretary of Citizen Security. Mexican officials estimate that 85% to 90% of the state’s homicides are related to drug violence and organized crime.

But violence against tourists is rare. That’s important for an industry that Baja California’s Secretary of Tourism estimated spurred about $7.1 billion in economic revenue for the state in 2023.

“We Baja Californians are honest, hardworking people,” Gov. Marina del Pilar Ávila said Thursday. She said the killings of the surfers did not represent the people of her state while acknowledging her state faces significant security challenges. “We will continue to work to build a state with peace, well-being, and tranquillity for all Baja Californians and for those who visit our state.”

Serge Dedina, the former Imperial Beach mayor who is executive director of the environmental group Wildcoast, is a lifelong surfer who has been traveling to areas south of Ensenada for 40 years.

“Let’s make this clear, Baja California is one of the most beautiful and best surfing destinations in the world. Period,” Dedina said. “The Baja California government needs to really focus on improving security and demonstrating that it is concerned about security. Not only for visiting tourists, but also obviously for local residents.”

Dedina acknowledged that the recent slayings could make travelers think twice but said he was encouraged by the quick response authorities showed in this case. “Hopefully people will be reassured that they can travel safely in Baja California,” he said. “They just need to be safe like they would traveling anywhere else.”

Gregg, the spearfisherman, said he has always taken certain precautions and will continue to do so. He usually crosses the border in Mexicali to avoid Tijuana. He typically does not drive at night, though that has as much to do with avoiding livestock and wild animals as it does with steering clear of potentially dangerous people. And of the people he encounters, he is most wary of the police who might try to extort him.

“Even before this, I had friends and family who were a bit taken aback by my Baja trips, but most of that stems from stuff that happens at the border,” Gregg said. “The vast majority of that has nothing to do with travelers and vacationers … I’ve never had any sort of issues. The cartels are not interested in this sort of activity — it’s not their business. This sort of thing is still very rare.”

Brent Jesse, 61, is originally from San Clemente and said he’s been taking surf trips to Ensenada since he was 12 years old. He now lives near Cabo San Lucas, at the far southern tip of Baja California Sur, but also owns a property near Ensenada.

“I’ve been traveling down here for a long time and have owned property down here for 15-plus years,” Jesse said. “We feel very safe, but we’re super careful. We’re careful where we go and how we act. We don’t wear fancy jewelry out. We’re respectful.”

Jesse said he’s very familiar with the area where the trio was killed. “That’s an area that for years, you can go and surf there, but don’t camp there,” he said. Still, he said that kind of violence was rare and seemed to be a case of being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Surfers generally consider some coastal areas of Baja California to be safer than others. The more developed and populous region from Playas de Tijuana to Ensenada is generally viewed as safer, while the more remote coastline south of Ensenada is considered more of a risk.

That’s the case for Ocean Beach’s Albert, who still occasionally surfs in areas closer to Rosarito and also crosses the border regularly to attend home matches for Tijuana’s soccer club, the Xolos — he’s the leader of a group of non-Latino U.S. citizens known as the “GringoXolos.”

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But he stopped venturing south of Ensenada for waves around 2006.

“We used to go down twice a month to camp and surf and have the time of our lives,” Albert said. “Everyone down there was so friendly.”

But on one trip to Ejido Eréndira, an area about 35 miles south of where the surfers were recently killed, Albert and his group of about 10 or 12 people had their belongings stolen overnight while camping. The only one of the campers who awoke during the heist saw one of the thieves carrying what he believed to be a weapon. The thieves took everything that wasn’t inside tents or vehicles, which Albert remembered being about seven surfboards, 10 wet suits, a bicycle and other items.

“After that happened to us, none of those guys go down there anymore,” Albert said.

Dr. Warren Patch, a chiropractor who runs the Patch Family Spine Center in Ocean Beach, said he’s been surfing in Baja California since 1969. Patch said a lot has changed over the years, especially since the turn of the century, when a real estate boom altered the coastline and an increase in methamphetamine trafficking brought with it the scourges that accompany drug addiction.

Patch spends most weekends at his beach house near Rosarito. He said the recent slayings won’t change his routine, though he’s rarely camped or surfed the more remote spots south of Ensenada since he purchased his vacation home in 2000.

“The Mexican citizenry is very friendly and warm,” Patch said, but he predicted the recent slayings will affect how potential visitors will view Baja California. “The coverage is international … this stains their country.”

Patch said the recent killings “won’t put any damper” on those who surf crowded spots near Rosarito, but he fears that tourism will suffer.

“Those of us who are already seasoned travelers, we’ll be a little more wary,” Patch said. “But for the general population who has never crossed the border … those people are not going to go down there now.”

Similar conversations and calculations have been happening online in recent days. On the Facebook page Talk Baja, a discussion board for English-speaking expats and Baja travelers, a Northern California man posted that he’d been planning a solo surf trip for June and wondered if it was still safe for him to go.

Among the more than 200 responses he received was a Canadian surfer who said that he was still taking his planned trip, but would be “avoiding any remote wild camping spots” and opting instead for more secure spots at paid camp sites. The Northern California man later followed up that he was still moving forward with his planned trip, as well.

Even for Baja California locals, there was a sense of disbelief that came with news of the slayings.

“We are super shaken up in Baja California,” said Gino Passalacqua, vice president of the Baja Surf Club, composed of surfers from both sides of the border. “We are in shock that something so tragic and violent has happened, and at the same time we are concerned for our own safety.”

Passalacqua said that the area where the trio was killed is frequented by surfers who camp there. “Part of the appeal of surfing in Baja California is going to these remote places where there are few or no people, where there are beautiful natural settings, where the surfer is looking for that solitude.”

Baja California Attorney General María Elena Andrade insisted Thursday that the slayings were part of a violent robbery that got out of control.

“This heartbreaking event, which there are no words to describe, was not carried out because of their tourist surfing activities,” she said during the state government’s weekly news conference. “Unfortunately, it was a circumstantial act.”

As a proposal, Andrade said it might be helpful to create some sort of registry of tourists visiting remote areas, so that the police are aware of where they are.

José María Ramos, a researcher at the Colegio de la Frontera Norte, said he does not foresee a decline in tourism. Instead, he believes that surfers will increase security and avoid dangerous areas. However, he said this should be a “wake-up call” for state officials.

For a country with about 100,000 missing persons, the “unusually rapid and robust response” by the authorities in this case was notable, said Tyler Mattiace, researcher at Human Rights Watch, covering Mexico.

During the search authorities even located a fourth body, not related to the investigation, whose identity is still unknown. Mexican authorities said Wednesday they are investigating if the body belongs to someone connected to the lot where the surfers were found.

Mattiace said that given the level of media attention and international pressure, it had become a high-priority case for prosecutors. “So we often see a level of attention, and a level of action, that ordinary Mexicans simply don’t get.”

Mattiace doubted that this case would lead to changes. “This is one of tens of thousands of disappearances that have happened during this current administration,” he said. “It seems unlikely that an individual case, even though it had media repercussions in other countries, would lead to some kind of larger policy change, when the other tens of thousands disappearance cases that remain unsolved have not led to a larger policy change.”

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DIVE Magazine

Scuba Diving Luxury Travel Magazine

Fourth Element announces Shoreline throw-on for divers

30 May 2024 2 minutes

Fourth Element has announced the launch of Shoreline, a versatile new travel throw-on for adventuring scuba divers. Made using 100 per cent recycled materials, the company says that Shoreline ‘combines sustainability with functionality’, offering protection from the elements with a minimal environmental footprint.

Fourth Element says Shoreline has been designed to be lightweight but robust, with an oversized, minimalist design providing quick and easy protection from the wind and the rain but folds into a compact size when not in use.

Shoreline has a 10,000 HH waterproof rating and 20,000g breathability rating which Fourth Element says guarantees reliable protection in all weather, together with the fluorine-free DWR waterproofing, fully taped seams, velcro cuffs, adjustable peaked, hood and water-resistant YKK Aqua Guard zips.

Shoreline is part of Fourth Element’s sustainability-driven OceanPositive range, and made from 100 per cent recycled GRS certified Polyester, and carries the Bluesign sustainable textiles seal of approval.

Shoreline throw-on features

• Made from 100% recycled materials
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• Lightweight at 0.36kg
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Sizes : XXS – XL; Colour : Bright Blue

RRP: GBP £129 / EUR €155 / USD $180 / CAD $226 / AUD $245

Shoreline is available from selected dive shops and Fourth Element’s online store .

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Want to bike L.A.’s coast? Try these six must-see stops

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Few experiences exemplify California living more than a bike ride on the Marvin Braude Bike Trail . Also known as the Strand, the 22-mile oceanfront path between Pacific Palisades and Torrance winds past five piers, two marinas, volleyball games, hang gliders, street performers and skate parks. Much of it is accompanied by views of the Pacific Ocean and Southern California’s famously wide beaches.

I started biking the Strand more than 20 years ago when I lived an easy ride away from it in Marina del Rey. The more I traverse it (now with my husband and kids), the more I realize that it’s not just an extraordinarily scenic exercise path. It boasts historic landmarks, old-growth trees and native plants. It’s also home to many delicious restaurants and food stands that go beyond typical boardwalk fare.

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Now that temperatures are finally rising, it’s a perfect time to take advantage of one of our most prized assets: the beach. Whether you cover the whole bike path in either direction or stick with a section closest to home, here are six easy-to-overlook spots that are worth a stop. Each one celebrates L.A.’s signature coastal scene in its own way.

The Original Muscle Beach It’s easy to confuse this sprawling outdoor gym with the smaller membership-based weightlifting one in Venice. Santa Monica’s Muscle Beach was a top fitness spot from 1938 until 1958, when out-of-control crowds and onlookers led the city to shut it down. It was restored in 1999, and it’s now filled with kids and adults enjoying its swing sets, rings and ropes course and parallel bars. It’s a great place to people-watch and soak up the action of the Santa Monica Pier from a distance.

The Venice Canals Bikes aren’t allowed on the canal paths, but you can lock up your wheels and take a walking tour of the miniature Italy-inspired community built by Abbott Kinney in 1905. It’s a surprisingly peaceful experience right off a busy stretch of the trail that parallels Washington Boulevard. The lively patio at nearby Baja Cantina makes a nice pit stop for weekday happy-hour deals from 3 to 6 p.m., including $10 margaritas and $4.50 birria tacos.

Oxford Basin Nature Loop In 2016, a contaminated flood control basin in Marina del Rey was turned into a park filled with native plants and trees. The Strand winds right through this shady oasis with benches and birdwatching opportunities. Just south of the park is a sleek new shopping center called the Boardwalk, with tiered outdoor seating areas and primo daytime views of the small-craft harbor.

Bruce’s Beach Before enjoying the outstanding views of this Manhattan Beach park, learn about its incredible history as a popular resort catering to Black families in the 1900s. The land below the park, where the Los Angeles County Lifeguard Training Center now sits, was improperly seized from owners Willa and Charles Bruce and demolished by the town in the 1920s; the county-owned portion of the land was eventually returned to the Bruce family’s descendants, who sold it back to the county in 2023.

Its grassy hillsides sit just above the Strand, featuring basketball hoops, shade trees and benches perfectly positioned for a reflective moment by the ocean.

Hermosa Beach Pier This is one of the more congested areas of the Strand, and you will be required to walk your bike through it on peak summer days. But if you time it right, you can snag a bench on the pier and watch early morning surfers (with coffee in hand, it makes a soothing start to the day.) Or stroll it as the sun sets and fishermen cast their lines for corbina and mackerel. You may recognize it as the setting in “La La Land” where Ryan Gosling sings and dances to “City of Stars.”

Moonstone Park Head west at King Harbor on Marina Way from the Strand and follow it to the end. There, you’ll find Moonstone Park, which is little more than a patch of grass and a picnic table, but a rarely crowded one with waterfront views. Pick up a burger with griddled onions ($10) at Proudly Serving in southern Hermosa Beach or a swordfish sandwich ($15) from Captain Kidd’s and enjoy it while watching sea lions and stand-up paddle boarders. If you happen to be here on a Thursday morning, the farmers market at nearby Veterans Park is also a worthy stop for its ocean views and wide selection of prepared foods and produce.

Before setting off on the bike trail, make sure you’re aware of state and local biking laws. All riders under age 18 are required to wear helmets. In Hermosa Beach, e-bikes must be pedaled manually, and there’s a speed limit of eight miles per hour. In Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach, cyclists are required to walk their bikes in busy areas near the piers.

Need to rent a bike? Perry’s has nine Strand locations between Santa Monica and Venice ($14 an hour; $45 a day). In Hermosa Beach, Hermosa Cyclery near Pier Plaza rents cruisers for $12 an hour or $35 a day and has three free air stations.

3 things to do

1. See Shakespeare under the stars in Topanga Canyon Theatricum Botanicum, the open-air theater founded by Will Geer in the 1970s, is kicking off its repertory season with “The Winter’s Tale” on Saturday and “A Midsummer Night’s Dream” on Sunday. Other shows of the season, which runs through October 20, include “Wendy’s Peter Pan,” “Tartuffe: Born Again” and “The Hispanic/Latino/Latina/Latinx/Latine Vote.” Guests are welcome to come early and enjoy a picnic in the garden, which features specimens of plants and flowers referenced in the Bard’s works. Tickets can be purchased at www.theatricum.com .

2. Explore wetlands in Long Beach Long Beach Utilities is partnering with Friends of the L.A. River and other community and environmental groups to host an outdoor educational event Saturday in one of the city’s newest parks. Activities include making seed balls, painting terra cotta pots, live music, free milkweed giveaways and tours of the park’s freshwater wetlands and wildlife habitats. It’s free and runs from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. More information is available at www.folar.org .

3. Take a hike along the Arroyo Seco in Pasadena Join the Sierra Club on an easy evening hike along the southern section of the Arroyo Seco trail and learn about its important place in the natural and Indigenous history of Pasadena. The three-mile hike begins at 6:30 p.m. Tuesday by San Pasqual Stables in South Pasadena and ends around 9 p.m. Dogs are not allowed on this hike. For more details and to sign up, visit angeles.sierraclub.org .

The must-read

The Sutter Buttes are a central core of volcanic domes sheltering an oasis of verdant hills and wildlife about 60 miles north of Sacramento. I had never heard of them until reading The Times article by Jessica Garrison about the bitter, decades-long debate over public access to them. California bought about 1,800 acres on the northern side of the buttes and declared them a state park in 2005. But because all the roads leading to the park are privately owned, Garrison reports, there’s no way for the public to access the state-owned land. The impasse is going on its 20th year. Whatever happens, everyone seems to agree that the Sutter Buttes encompass “some of the most magical and otherworldly terrain in California.”

Happy adventuring,

Abalone Cove in Palos Verdes is home to the black sea hare, a slug that grows from microscopic at birth to the size of a basketball. I learned this and other fascinating facts about the California coast while listening to KCRW’s Madeleine Brand interview marine biologist and Cal State L.A. professor Patrick Krug. His new book, “Between the Tides in California: Exploring Beaches and Tidepools,” explains why creatures such as the black sea hare live where they do and offers tips on how to spot them.

For more insider tips on Southern California’s beaches, trails and parks, check out past editions of The Wild . And to view this newsletter in your browser, click here .

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We’ll help you find the best places to hike, bike and run, as well as the perfect silent spots for meditation and yoga.

Laura Randall is a Los Angeles-based writer and author of several Southern California hiking guides. She has written about hiking and travel for a variety of newspapers and magazines and is the author of “60 Hikes 60 Miles: Los Angeles” and the Wilderness Press guide to the Pacific Crest Trail in Southern California. When she’s not hiking, she can usually be found reading L.A. noir novels at the beach or being walked by a headstrong golden retriever named Boris.

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¿Cuáles son las penas que Trump podría enfrentar si es condenado?

Cada uno de los 34 cargos conlleva la posibilidad de hasta cuatro años de prisión, pero el encarcelamiento no es seguro: el juez podría imponer una pena de libertad condicional.

Por Kate Christobek

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Si Donald Trump es declarado culpable , le corresponderá al juez Juan Merchan decidir si su pena incluye el ingreso a prisión.

Trump está acusado de 34 cargos de falsificación de registros comerciales relacionados con el encubrimiento de un pago de 130.000 dólares a la actriz porno Stormy Daniels en los días previos a las elecciones de 2016.

Todos los cargos son delitos graves de clase E, que es la categoría más baja de delito grave en el estado de Nueva York.

Cada cargo conlleva la posibilidad de hasta cuatro años de prisión. Pero si Trump es condenado por más de un cargo, Merchan probablemente impondría una sanción de manera concurrente, lo que significa que el expresidente tendría que cumplir penas de prisión por cada uno de los cargos simultáneamente.

El encarcelamiento no es un hecho : Merchan podría optar por imponer una pena de libertad condicional, sin tiempo de prisión. Trump tendría que presentarse periódicamente ante el Departamento de Libertad Condicional de Nueva York. También podría ser encarcelado si cometiera delitos adicionales.

Es muy probable que el juez Merchan dicte la sentencia de Trump varias semanas después del veredicto de culpabilidad. Pero existe la posibilidad de que cualquier sanción se retrase.

Trump, quien es el virtual candidato presidencial republicano, apelará sin duda cualquier condena, un largo proceso que podría llevar meses o más y que probablemente no se resolvería antes del día de las elecciones. En ese caso, probablemente seguiría en libertad hasta que se resolviera la apelación.

Aún no ha habido ningún indicio de lo que Merchan decidiría, aunque ha hecho saber que se toma en serio los delitos de cuello blanco. Trump lo ha atacado continuamente calificándolo como “parcial” y “corrupto”.

Kate Christobek cubre los casos civiles y penales contra el expresidente Donald Trump para el Times. Más de Kate Christobek