half cruise ship half freighter

Half-cruise, half-cargo ships provide authenticity in place of cocktails and casinos

The pros and cons of taking one way to Alaska’s Inside Passage or Bora Bora

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No one would call the Aranui 5 a thing of beauty. Half cruise ship and half freighter, it has a cockeyed profile that only its maker could love.

It may not look like much, but it manages to sail to some of the most beautiful islands in the world.

The Aranui navigates the waters of French Polynesia, delivering cargo and passengers to places such as Bora Bora, the Tuamotu Atolls and the Marquesas Islands. Its itinerary offers a daydreamer’s voyage to the dazzling shores of paradise.

It’s not the kind of cruise that would appeal to most people who hop on a ship for a week’s vacation. No midnight buffets. No casino. No stage shows.

But if you’re a Walter Mitty type who fantasizes about jumping on a freighter to see the world, this type of ship might make your dream come true.

Call it Freighter Lite. These ships are more workhorse than thoroughbred, capable of doing an honest day’s work as well as carrying passengers. Surprisingly, some also offer a high level of comfort, given their hard-working nature.

They can be found, among other places, in Alaska, where the Marine Highway System ferries cars, supplies and tourists through the dramatic scenery of the Inside Passage or along the stunning coast of Norway, where Hurtigruten ferries carry freight and passengers year-round.

A crewman pulls a line on Hiva Oa, one of the Marquesas Islands. The Aranui 5 is a half cargo, half cruise ship.

The Aranui 5 unloads passengers and cargo via tender boats on the island of Hiva Oa as it tours the Marquesas Islands.

A morning exercise class aboard the Aranui 5 ship during the cruise in the Marquesas.

A suite on the Aranui 5 ship.

As the tender that brings ship passengers to shore pulls in, local girls sing a traditional song of greeting to the passengers in the Marquesas Islands.

On Rangiroa, one of the largest atolls in the world, an Aranui 5 passenger uses binoculars to look at the birds and the Aranui 5 ship, background, before the translucent lagoon.

On Ua Pou, a local girl, left, runs into the ocean as she and her friend play in the gentle waves as the Aranui 5 unloads its cargo, background.

On the island of Fatu Hiva, in the the village of Omoa, handmade dyed cloth is for sale to tourists visiting the Marquesas Islands aboard the Aranui 5 ship.

Aboard the Aranui 5.

People on the Aranui 5 participate in a dance lesson at sunset during a tour of the Marquesas Islands.

A festive dinner on the pool deck of the Aranui 5 during the cruise.

Hurtigruten passes Trondheim, Norway.

In French Polynesia, the Aranui 5 visits South Pacific isles carrying a couple of hundred passengers who delight in watching the ship off-load cars, fuel, pallets of toilet paper and other supplies and onload bananas, coconuts, citrus and fish.

“These ships offer an incredibly authentic experience,” said Carolyn Spencer Brown, editor of CruiseCritic.com . “You won’t find bingo or any of the other trappings.

“I’m not denigrating these activities, but there are travelers who want more than that. They want to travel with locals and get to know the people, not just see the scenery.”

Those are the big pluses on these ships. You not only travel with vacationers like yourself, but you also are getting to know the single mother who has boarded the ship or ferry for a weekend visit with family members in a nearby village. You’re rubbing shoulders on the tender with a tattooed seaman who’s going ashore to visit his wife and kids.

When you go ashore, you’ll meet villagers who turn out to greet the ship, not because they want to sell you something but because they’re friendly.

“These ports are nothing like the ones you visit on cruise ships,” said Calabasas resident Mathy Simon, who sailed the Norwegian coast on a Hurtigruten ferry. “You’re not going to get off the ship and see a row of jewelry stores that open whenever a ship is in the harbor.”

For the most part, her ship visited tiny communities where the residents’ only access to the outside world was the ship.

“They use it like a bus or a train: They get on and get off at the next village. It’s their only mode of transportation,” said Simon, who traveled with Kyle, her college-age son.

The bottom line: “The trip was amazing. I’d do it again in a heartbeat.”

Aboard the Aranui 5

Hiva Oa, Ua Pou, Nuku Hiva, Fatu Hiva.

The words don’t exactly roll off the tongue. But that’s not surprising. They’re the names of some of the most remote islands in the world; all are part of the Marquesas Archipelago, 852 miles northeast of Tahiti and about 3,000 miles from the west coast of Mexico, the nearest continental land mass.

I visited them in the fall aboard the freighter-cum-cruise ship Aranui 5 (the word means “the great highway”), which carries cargo and passengers on 14-day, 2,200-mile round trips from Papeete, Tahiti, the capital of French Polynesia.

The ship came online in winter 2015, when it replaced earlier versions. Although it lacks some of the perks of large cruise ships, it makes up for it in the access it provides to a beautiful place that’s off the radar for most people.

We visited six Marquesas islands, plus Bora Bora and two islands in the Tuamotu Archipelago. At each stop, I thought I had discovered Eden. But then on the next stop, I’d feel that way again.

All of the ports were tiny; at some, virtually every resident turned out to greet us, dancing, singing and playing instruments.

They were our entertainment, and we were theirs.

Excursions were limited; for the most part, we took strenuous hikes each day.

Then we dined in whatever village we were visiting, with our international group of travelers broken into language groups: Australians, New Zealanders, Brits and Americans made up one group, French speakers (the largest group) were another and Germans made up a third group.

My fellow passengers seemed a hardy lot; they loved the daily hikes that took us to the top of volcanic mountainsides for inspiring views.

One day, our tender dropped us off at an isolated beach where we played in the water. Another day, some of the passengers chose an excursion by horseback. Snorkeling was available on some islands.

Cabins ranged from tiny, four- to eight-bed dorms — most of which were used by locals traveling from one island to another — to luxe penthouse suites.

Most cabins featured balconies and 55-inch flat-screen TVs. Unless you speak French, however, you’ll have only one oldies-movies station and CNN.

But the inconveniences are minor compared with the pluses, most travelers said.

“This trip introduced us to an incredibly beautiful area of the world,” said Catherine Cheshire, of Palm Springs.

“It was money well spent.”

Info: Aranui 5 , (800) 972-7268, www.aranui.com . Fourteen-day round-trip cruises from Papeete to the Marquesas Islands, including Bora Bora and Rangiroa: dorm rates, per person, from $2,920 (sharing room and bath); deluxe balcony rooms, per person, from $5,642. Rates include accommodations, meals and excursions.

Sailing the Inside Passage

Many people see Alaska’s Inside Passage from the deck of a plush, comfy cruise ship while holding a cocktail in one hand and binoculars in the other.

I saw it from the deck of a ferry. Not plush. Not comfy. No cocktails.

But I had binoculars, and that was all I needed to appreciate a combination of land and sea that stretches from Vancouver, British Columbia, to Skagway, Alaska.

The inland waterway snakes past magnificent fiords, mountains and islands, where bears roam and bald eagles soar.

The ferry system is called the Alaska Marine Highway because it’s the closest thing the state has to a freeway in the coastal regions.

When the ferry network launched more than 50 years ago, it opened the state’s isolated coastal towns to tourism and gave residents easier access to the outside world.

Today, it also gives tourists an alternative to exploring the state by cruise ship.

You can hop on a ferry — with or without a vehicle — in Bellingham, Wash., about 90 miles north of Seattle, and get off 1,437 miles later in Whittier, Alaska, near Anchorage.

Eleven ferries sail various sections of the 3,500-mile route. Most have food service, but there’s little else in the way of amenities.

Unlike a cruise ship, the ferry allows passengers to hop on and hop off. You can stay a few days in a pretty port such as Ketchikan or Juneau in Alaska, meet the locals, go exploring at an unhurried pace, and get on a later vessel.

You can choose your level of comfort. You can rent a simple cabin furnished with bunks and a shower, sack out on a chair in the lounge, or set up a pup tent on the deck. (But don’t forget the duct tape to fasten down the tent. It’s a ferry, not a luxury liner.)

Info: Alaska Marine Highway , (800) 642-0066.

Sample fares:

Valdez to Whittier, Alaska: (six hours): $215 for one adult fare, including a 19-foot vehicle.

Prince Rupert, British Columbia, to Skagway, Alaska (1 1/2 days): $890 for one adult fare, including a two-berth cabin and a 19-foot vehicle.

Bellingham, Wash., to Skagway, Alaska (three days): $2,096 for one adult fare, including a two-berth cabin and a 19-foot vehicle.

Norwegian thrills without frills

Fiords, mountains and beautiful scenery aren’t limited to Alaska. Many people rank Norway as the most beautiful country in the world, primarily because of those attributes and its magical coastline.

Enter Hurtigruten (literally “swift route”), which has provided a lifeline for isolated Norwegian communities for more than 120 years.

From a traveler’s standpoint, the line’s 12-ship coastal fleet also provides a healthy dose of Mother Nature’s finest along more than 1,000 miles of Norway’s pristine coastal waterway.

More than 10,000 Americans sail the route annually, many taking a six-day sailing from Bergen to Tromso that will take them above the Arctic Circle.

Calabasas resident Mathy Simon and her son made the trip in February.

“We wanted to explore the Arctic in winter, see the Northern Lights and stay at a snow hotel.”

They met those goals while also learning about the communities they visited.

“It’s amazing how these ships deliver not just people but goods along the route,” she said. “The ship delivers an authenticity you don’t get when you’re just stopping in a port.”

Simon, who sails frequently, said that the Hurtigruten rooms are simpler than those on cruise ships but that the food far exceeded that on a big ship.

“The food was over the top,” she said. She described dining on cheeses and other products collected from farmers along the coast, and on giant fresh crab delivered to the ship early in the day.

She’ll go back, she said: “Next time, I’ll see the verdant hills of Norway in the summer.”

Info: Hurtigruten , (888) 412-3059, www.hurtigruten.com . Daily departures for trips of six, seven and 12 days.

Seven-Day Classic Voyage North summer cruise: Rates begin at $2,036 per person, double occupancy, including accommodations and meals.

Should you go?

These vessels are cruise ships for people who don’t like cruise ships. Should you set sail on one? Here’s the nitty-gritty:

Don’t go if you enjoy:

► Large-scale entertainment such as stage shows

► All-you-can-eat buffets

► Dressing up for dinner

► Exploring large cities on port stops

► Hitting the casino

► Spending a day in the ship’s spa

Go if you enjoy:

► Low-key activities on board

► Cultural and historical activities (lecturers often add perspective about upcoming stops)

► Visiting people in their environment

► Hiking ashore

► Learning about local lifestyles

► Seeing magnificent scenery

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Twitter: @latimestravel

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Wander Woman Travel Magazine

Aranui 5: the world’s most unusual cruise ship sailing the world’s most exotic itineraries

Debbie Olsen

I stood on the deck of Aranui 5 just after sunrise with a small group of fellow travelers who had risen early to watch our French captain, Christophe Dupuy, perform something he called “la grande manoeuvre.” He was sailing the ship into an extremely narrow channel and then doing a 180-degree turn before mooring. The seas were rough and the walls of the channel were steep and rocky. One false move and there would be trouble.

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Table of Contents

Aranui 5 Captains are Well Trained

A few years ago, an Italian captain tried a grand manoeuvre off the island of Giglio and sank his ship. He was showing off and his little stunt made headlines. Our captain was doing the maneuver because he had to. Aranui 5 captains perform the grand turn every two weeks. It’s the only way for ships to access Ua Huka, one of the most remote islands in the South Pacific.

More Adventures Well Off the Beaten Path: Read our article Ilulissat, Greenland – Birthplace of Icebergs

A Day Trip to Ua Huka

After the captain and crew had safely moored the vessel, I stayed on deck a little while longer watching the crew unload freight onto barges. At about 83 square kilometres, Ua Huka is the smallest of the northern Marquesas Islands and its approximately 600 inhabitants rely on barges to deliver goods to the island.

Polynesian legend has it that the gods created the Marquesas Islands to be the roof of French Polynesia and Ua Huka is known for its rocky cliffs, windswept hills, wild horses and goats, fruit trees and rare birds. It’s also known as the land of master wood carvers.

Once we got on shore, 4X4 vehicles with local drivers were waiting to transport us around the island. Our first stop was a visit to an arboretum and botanical garden. While the other passengers closely followed the guide, my husband and I slipped away to the orchard hoping to snap a photo of some of the rare and endangered birds that Ua Huka is famous for.

Next, we headed to Te Tumu Cultural Centre to view exquisite wood carvings and replicas of Marquesan art. Situated on a hilltop with an amazing view, the site also has what locals say is the world’s largest breadfruit pounder. The idea of large items attracting tourists clearly spans cultures –like Sudbury’s giant nickel or Drumheller’s giant dinosaur.

After visits to several artisan shops and lunch at a local restaurant, we went on a short hike through the rainforest to a small archeological site with some ancient stone tikis on a ceremonial plateau. The view from the plateau was stunning and part of me wanted to linger longer. The other part of me was hungry for the gourmet dinner that would be ready soon back on board the ship. Common sense and the promise of good food won out and I headed back to the ship on schedule.

Exploring the Marquesas Islands

Each stop on the 4,000-km journey was exciting and revealed the special culture of the Marquesas Islands and French Polynesia. The 14-day voyage included visits to Fakarava and Rangiroa in the Tuamotu Archipelago, Bora Bora in the Society Islands, as well as Nuku Hiva, Ua Pou, Hiva Oa, Fatu Hiva, Tahuata and Ua Huka in the Marquesas Islands.

Along the way, we saw dramatic landscapes with waterfalls as tall as sky scrapers, hiked through extinct volcanoes and lush rain forests, explored ancient archeological sites, visited a pearl farm, watched artisans at work, relaxed on beaches, snorkelled and enjoyed unique cultural experiences and performances.

The last two days of our voyage featured the roughest seas Aranui 5 had ever seen. “I hope you’re feeling well after the special night we had,” Captain Dupuy coyly announced as we arrived a little later than planned into Bora Bora. Even though we had four-metre swells from Tahiti’s mara’amu wind and six-metre swells from another system, I felt safe the entire time. It was comforting to know our captain had a few grand manoeuvres to fall back on.

A Unique Vessel with an Exotic Itinerary

Aranui 5 could easily be one of the most unique vessels in the world sailing one of the planet’s most exotic itineraries. The ship was custom-built to be both a freighter and a passenger ship and, at first glance, it’s a little ugly on the outside. It’s literally half cruise ship, half freighter and it operates as such – delivering freight and passengers to some of the most untouched islands in French Polynesia. At each stop, islanders come out to greet the ship and watch the freight being unloaded. Locals can use the ship as a kind of public transportation to travel between these remote islands. Cruise passengers board the ship in Tahiti and sign on for 14 days exploring some of the most remote islands on the planet.

What’s included on Aranui 5?

Aranui 5 is more of an expedition cruise than a luxury cruise, but it is definitely comfortable. There are double cabins, inside cabins and even balcony cabins. There are also cabins that accommodate single travelers in dorm-style rooms at lower rates. Land tours are included – though you can pay extra in some ports to explore a little further. Meals are included and very well done. Wine is included with lunch and dinner – something you’d expect from a ship that sails under the French flag. There is a spa, a swimming pool, a sauna, a library, a small gym and a presentation room where guests can listen to presentations from experts about the culture, geology and history of French Polynesia. There’s a lounge and bar to enjoy in the evening and some evenings there were karaoke nights or live music from crew members.

Useful Aids for Sea Sickness

If you have issues with sea sickness, you should talk to your doctor before you leave home. There is a doctor on Aranui 5, but it will cost extra to pay him a visit. You cannot purchase over-the-counter medications on board without paying the doctor a visit. Make sure to bring some Gravol , cold medications and headache remedies with you. There are also some good herbal remedies for sea sickness that you can purchase in advance.

Polynesian Night on Aranui 5

There was one special themed evening called Polynesian Night during the cruise. The evening featured a spectacular buffet including local food specialties, live music and a live Polynesian dance show. Tables were set up outdoors on the main deck and we dined under the stars.

Aranui 5 – The Details

Aranui 5 sails year-round from Papeet, Tahiti, and has 103 cabins that range from deluxe staterooms with balconies to dorm-style rooms that are ideal for single travellers. Visit  www.aranui.com  or call 1-800-972-7268 for more information.  

Related: If you crave unique luxury travel experiences, check out our post Belle Mont Farm – The Uncommon Caribbean.

JoJo Skelcher

We sailed twice to the Marquesas & other islands you visit in our 37′ yacht in the 80′ s. We have lived in Australia for 35 years. Your trips sound great but think we might be too crumbly now!

wanderwoman

It’s a special place in the world for sure. I loved the Aranui 5. You might not be too crumbly (only you’d know for certain though). I will say there were a lot of older guests on the trip and they seemed to fare well. Thanks for visiting our site and for commenting. It must have been an amazing trip on a private yacht. -Debbie

Marilyn Marsh

Interesting read and brought back memories of the trip we did on Aranui V in 2018. With regard to the comment above “too crumbly” – we spent a lot of time on the ship with an American couple who had done the first ever passenger trip on the original Aranui many years before. They were both in their 90s and quite frail but the crew looked after them so well, including carrying them when necessary on and off the shore transfer boat. I’m hoping to go again – and I’ll soon be over 80!

Thanks for your comment Marilyn! Like you, my husband and I loved our experience on the Aranui V. It’s unique in the world. Thanks for reading our blog and for taking the time to comment. -Debbie

Thank you for the narrative on the Aranui 5. We are considering their 12-14 day cruise to the Marquesas and Tahiti. We like that they include the guided tours and activities on the islands. Are there also snorkeling opportunities at some of the ports?

Hi Ellen, Thanks for reading our post about Aranui 5. That was one of the best cruises I’ve ever done. There were several snorkeling opportunities on the itinerary. The most memorable was in Bora Bora. It was so beautiful. We snorkeled twice on that itinerary, but I think if I had brought my own mask and snorkel, I might have been able to snorkel at some of the ports. If you decide to go, I hope you’ll enjoy it as much as my husband and I did. Happy travels, Debbie

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I Hitched a Ride On a Cargo Ship to Scuba Dive in Remote South Pacific Islands

Aranui 5 was one of the few cruise ships that kept sailing during COVID-19

Suzie Dundas

As most dedicated scuba divers know, what's exciting about scuba diving isn’t just what you see underwater—it’s where you get in the water. As an avid diver, I was thrilled when I learned that scuba diving is possible near Hiva Oa, on the Marquesas Islands. The Marquesas are one of French Polynesia ’s five island chains and the most remote; it’s a three-hour flight from Tahiti to Nuka Hiva, the administrative capital of the Marquesas. 

You can’t fly within 24 hours after diving , though, so I decided to plan my Tahitian dive trip another way—on the Aranui 5 , a half-tourist, half-cargo ship that makes regular runs to the Marquesas Islands. 

The Aranui 5 sets sail from the island of Tahiti, making nine stops over the course of its 13-day voyage: Bora Bora, two islands in the Tuamotu chain (Fakarava and Rangiroa), and six of the inhabited islands of the Marquesas. While the front of the ship carries cargo like frozen foods, vehicles, electronics, and even horses to the islands, the stern is akin to a small cruise ship. My room had a private balcony, the staff are multilingual and very friendly, and all meals are served with red and white wine and finished with gourmet pastries from the French-trained pastry chef.

Because the islands are so remote, anything that can’t fit on a small plane has to be delivered via the Aranui 5. That means the Aranui 5 was one of the few cruise ships in the world that never stopped sailing during the recent pandemic. Another supply ship is available, but it only sails when it has enough cargo to justify the trip, which can leave Marquesans waiting months for vital supplies like building materials.

While the Aranui is unloading at the port each day, cruise guests are treated to excursions, all of which are included with the price of the ticket. I was able to tour the studio of French renegade artist Paul Gauguin and take a 10-mile hike through the purple-flower-covered mountains of rugged Fatu Hiva, among other activities.

But the best part of the Aranui is that it’s an adventure cruise, and that means guests can personalize their adventures. Not surprisingly, I focused on spending my time underwater. While other cruisers opted for beach days or ATV tours of the mountains, I strapped on my dive gear and dived with sea turtles in Tahiti, saw the famous “Wall of Sharks” on the island of Fakarava, had a dolphin swim alongside me for most of my dive in Rangiroa’s Tiputi Pass, and went below the surface in Tahuata, swimming along the rocky, stingray-filled walls. I also added dives ahead of time in Moorea, a small island connected to Tahiti by the 30-minute long Aremiti Ferry .

The Aranui staff arranged my dives in each location with local dive operator Top Dive . That meant I was never late for my dives, never late returning to the Aranui, and I only needed to pay and show my dive certifications once. Since Top Dive was my primary operator, they knew my gear sizes and had my rental set-ups ready the moment I walked into the dive shops.

Some other guests on the Aranui also scuba dived, which helped me meet other people even though I was traveling alone. Never once did I feel limited by the other divers; in fact, Top Dive often split the group to allow those of us interested in more challenging dives to visit a different spot than those who wanted a more mellow experience. I can definitely say that my dives in French Polynesia were some of the best I’ve ever done, with shark sightings on every dive. And since the Aranui's last stop is Bora Bora, guests have the option of departing a day early to spend extra time diving in Bora Bora's world-famous lagoon. I didn't opt for that, but after spending a day there, I would definitely choose that option were I to do the trip again.

Luxurious rooms on the Aranui 5 aren’t cheap at $5,300 per person in a double stateroom, though it does include all food, wine with meals, lodging, and daily excursions (diving has an additional cost.) However, if you’re traveling with a group of diving friends, the bunk room is surprisingly cheaper than you’d expect, costing about $3,400 a person for all 13 days. If you're planning a similar trip, you can book a multi-dive package from Top Dive, which you can use between Top Dive's shops (except on Tahuata; that's with Marquesas Diving .)

Tahiti is about seven hours flying from both Los Angeles and San Francisco on Air Tahiti and United Airlines, respectively.

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The 9 Best Scuba Diving Sites in French Polynesia

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10 Best French Polynesian Islands

5 Overwater Bungalows You Can Book With Points

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A Complete Guide to the Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

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GoNOMAD Travel

Inspiration and links to plan your trip.

Aranui V Cruise Tahiti to the Pitcairn

An unusual Tahitian cruise ship takes us to unusual destinations

By Tab Hauser GoNOMAD Senior Writer

When you think of Tahiti , most people conjure up exotic images of Bora Bora and the gorgeous peaks and atolls of the Society Islands. The islands of Tahiti are a lot more both geographical and cultural than the popular islands 95% of tourists visit.

In square miles over the ocean, Tahiti is as large as Western Europe. It has 121 islands and atolls with 75 islands inhabited. Many of these little islands can have villages of just a few hundred people. The capital and the largest island is called Tahiti.

Visiting the outer island is not easy. It can mean catching a weekly small airplane, taking a ferry service that does not run often, or boarding an uncomfortable freighter for a couple of days.

Then when arriving, finding a hotel or guest house to your standards could be a problem. Boating through this area on your own requires good seamanship. This is because of large sections of open water followed by hidden reefs near the atolls.

Aranui V is a Different Looking Cruise Ship

In 1984 the  Aranui Cruise Company  converted its freighter to accommodate passengers who wished to cruise to the remote Marquesas Islands.

The idea was that tourists can see these unspoiled places while freight was being loaded and unloaded.

The Aranui V was built in 2015. It can carry 230 passengers and 2700 tons of freight. Her profile is different from any vessel.

From mid-ship to stern she looks like a typical small cruise ship. There are nine decks of cabins, a bar, a spa, small gym entertainment areas, a dining room, sun decks, and a small pool.

When looking at the Aranui V mid-ship forward, it is all commercial. There are two large cranes, storage in the hull, and areas to stack shipping containers and vehicles. The two “passenger barges” that act as the ship’s tenders are stored here.

The Aranui V does 25 cruises a year. Most of them are to the Marquesas Islands for their freight and passenger runs. Visiting these islands can be a unique experience few visit. They do two “special cruises” to Pitcairn Island.

The Polynesian Experience

The Aranui V is a four-star ship with three-star food that cruises to a special part of the world. What it does well,  is give a five-star Polynesian experience with its all-Tahitian crew. Guest’s immersion into Polynesian culture can include lessons on the ukulele, singing, and Ori Tahiti dance.

What we did not know was that while we were taking lessons, the crew was prepping us for an all-guest review. (I sang in Polynesian, showing that travel opens you up to new experiences!)

Music was a highlight aboard. Happy hour was always lively with Tahitian music sung and played on the ukulele, bongos, and guitar.

Anytime there was music playing, the staff both on and off duty could be heard singing in the background. During our days at sea, a Ph.D. in Polynesian studies gave three lectures.

This covered migration, language, and the shared culture of the people of the Polynesian islands.

These islands ranged geographically south from New Zealand and north to Hawaii with several other island nations to the west.

Culture also continued the islands visited. Hereafter landing, passengers would be met by a warm welcome and a lei, flowered head cover, or a neckless of shells. Afterward, there would be local dancing. Each island also offered its own style of dance and handicraft.

Guest’s cultural immersion also included food. While the ships’ food had limited choices, the islands were different with beachside BBQs and Tahitian buffets.

Meals here were a combination of salads and vegetables from the ship with the locals cooking up fish, bread, pork, clams, and local specialties.

To complete your Polynesian experience, guests can sign on with the ship’s tattoo artist and bring home a permanent personal piece of their art.

Mutiny of the Bounty’s Pitcairn Island

Twice a year the Aranui V runs a special cruise with its furthest destination being  Pitcairn Island . The Pitcairn cruise is considered “special” because the ship cannot carry freight to the islands visited due to licensing restrictions.

Pitcairn Island is infamous for a few reasons. First, it was where the mutineers of the HMAV Bounty and their Tahitian cohorts settled.

The other is that Pitcairn is considered the most remote island in the world. (Some say that Tristan da Cunha in the Atlantic is the more remote, while others say that island is 247 miles from the scientifically staffed island of Gough making Pitcairn number one)

It was on January 15, 1790, that nine mutineers of the Bounty along with eleven Tahitian women and six men landed on this uninhabited island.

Each mutineer took one woman as a wife while the six Tahitian men had to share the three remaining women. This was a bad beginning that got worse in a short time.

Morning in Pitcairn

Our arrival at Pitcairn was met with a beautiful blue sky highlighting the jagged cliffs and green hills. It was made better with a mother whale and her calve breaching out of the water on our port side.

Pitcairn is an impressive 2.8 square miles made up of jungle, cliffs, peaks, and the hamlet of Adamstown. While it is only two miles long by one mile wide, it seems to be much larger when you are ashore.

Boaters coming ashore have to heed the five-foot swells when boarding the tenders.

This is done through timing, patience, and little man-handling by the excellent ships’ mariners. Tenders tie up at the manmade cove at Bounty Bay where the ship was burned.

At Bounty Bay, you arrived at the steep “Hill of Difficulty” as the mutineers named it. People with walking issues were given rides on the back of the residents ’ATVs (quads). The scenic 15-minute steep climb took us to Adamstown, named after the last survivor of the mutiny.

Adamstown is the third smallest populated capital having 47 people during our visit. The village has a church, town hall, post office, museum, small store, and dirt roads with directional signs leading to all points on the Pitcairn.

The Bounty’s Anchor

In the village, you will find the Bounty anchor, and a cannon, and near the museum on the corner of a private house is 75% of the Bounty’s bell.

Tourism is 60% of their economy from the dozen ships that stop here each year. In Adamstown, we found over a dozen residents that set up a market in front of their food store.

This store is closed when a ship calls on the island so visitors don’t reduce their stocks that arrive every few months by freighter.

Pitcairn’s market consisted of tables with wood carvings, handcrafted jewelry, their famous honey as well as HMAV Bounty-themed shirts of all types. The post office and one resident sold postage stamps the island is known for.

Before a group lunch in the plaza, the mayor of Pitcairn welcomed us. Afterward, passengers separated to either hike one of the many dirt roads, shop, or take a tour of the island.

Like many passengers, we elected to take a tour. We chose the seventh-generation islander “Pirate Pawl”. For his tour, we passed on the very bumpy ATV and used his small 4X4 Toyota.

Pawl took us is to scenic overlooks as well as the highest peak on the island. At one point we were able to see over 60 miles of the Pacific Ocean and the occasional whale.

In touring with Pawl we did miss a few key places like Christian’s Cliff, St. Paul’s Pond, and the sole Galapagos tortoise because his 4X4 could not go where the ATVs could.

We found Pitcairn beautiful and fertile with so many edible things growing on trees that you can never go hungry while walking around.

After the tour, it was off to Pirate Pawls “Whale Tooth Tavern” which bills itself as the world’s most remote tavern. While having two beers Pawl displayed some metal pieces taken off the sunk Bounty.

He was also proud to show his self-made prosthetic thumb tip while he played the ukulele. If you ask him how he lost his thumb, the answer will surprise you. Before leaving the Whale Tooth Tavern, he poured us a shot of Tequila using a large whale’s tooth as a shot glass. The man is larger than life.

 Pitcairn Hike

On our second day at Pitcairn, the Aranui V was scheduled to depart at noon. This gave passengers time to catch up on what they missed.

As this is a good island for hiking, we elected to walk to St Paul’s Pond because some of the ruts would have ripped Pawl’s Toyota the day before. (Tip: when in Pitcairn, take a tour via ATV or quad to see more of the island if your back is good)

Paul’s Pond is a 50-minute moderate hike from the top of Hill of Difficulty. The impressive view at the end looks out to the tall cliffs to the right and then down to the “pond”. This place is a work of geological beauty.

The pond is actually a pretty blue tidal pool protected by natural rock outcroppings. Here waves break between two tall rock pillars.

The water is then flushed through cracks in the rock on the far end. During rough seas, water may be tossed back over the rocky wall. Swimmers must use caution and common sense.

Museum and Grave

On the return hike to Adamstown, we visited the  Pitcairn Island Museum . This small building houses both HMAV Bounty and ancient Polynesian artifacts from the island. This was followed by a visit to John Adam’s grave.

When the mayhem and killings stopped, he took charge of the island until his death. He is one of only two mutineers to die of natural causes and the only mutineer that has a known grave.

Our island visit ended at the top of the Hill of Difficulty with $3 New Zealand beers at  Christian’s Café. This place is owned by the decedent of mutineer Fletcher Christian.

Pitcairn’s “Elephant on the Island”

It is not every day that a quarter of a country’s population gives you a sendoff at the dock. Standing there, I brought up the “elephant in the room” no one talked about on the island or at the ship’s lecture by a Pitcairn official.

This involved the sexual abuse of women and minors in its recent history where one-third of the island’s men were arrested.

At the dock, I mentioned to an official that we saw the sole police officer in the village.

The official said for this New Zealand cop it was like being on a one-year vacation. I then asked if the officer on the island improved things regarding “the recent past issues”.

The response was a stare, a pause, and a complete switch in conversation as if I was not sure what I was talking about (when it came to the sexual abuse arrests and convictions.)

At that awkward moment, I realized it was my time to board the tender. For a descriptive book about HMAV Bounty, Pitcairn, and its difficult history both past and recent, consider reading  “The Far Land: 200 Years of Murder, Mania and Mutiny in the South Pacific”. 

Island Stops

While the majority of the Aranui V passengers chose this cruise for the Pitcairn stop, the ship did visit five other little islands. None of these islands was an “OMG, must-go place”. However, they were each worth visiting because it allowed us to catch a glimpse at a slice of life few get to see.

Populations of these islands varied from 150 to about 1400. These islands had few or no cars, no T-shirt shops, or internet coffee cafes. On most islands, people lived without internet and air conditioning.

They also had spotty telephone service and electricity. On one island electricity came from an eight-foot generator.

Tahitians in these remote locations earned a little money producing copra. Copra comes from coconut meat that is dried in the sun and pressed. Its uses include soaps and cosmetics.

At the markets, ladies sold copra-based soap and skin care oil. People on these islands also survived on subsidence fishing and handicraft sales of wood carvings and items made from shells. This included elaborate jewelry, handbags, and even lamps.

On each island, the locals looked forward to the infrequent visiting little ship or yacht that stopped. At the islands we called on, villagers met us warmly with leis, flower hats, or shell necklaces.

They would perform Tahitian dances and play music and the mayor’s speech. All island stops were on atolls with a pretty blue lagoon.

Anaa Island

Anaa is a mile long by 1000 feet wide with 500 villagers living on it. On shore, guests had a 40-minute bus tour. This took us to a micro-sized botanical garden to pot a small tree and to the inlet for the pretty view.

There is a church there with a shell-decorated altar and lighting. Not far from the beach was a market set up with vendors selling all kinds of shell-made handicrafts along with copra skin oil

On Anaa we took a 20-minute small boat ride across the shallow lagoon to a 15-foot wide sinkhole just below the surface in the channel called a Pito Ogoogo. (Tahitian for navel).

This unusual formation goes deep and attaches to a lava tube that has access to the ocean. Snorkelers can look down into the depths and view the fish when conditions are good.

The two activities recommended on Anaa are renting a bicycle for an hour as well as floating off the beach in the warm tropical waters.

The 197-person village of Ikitake takes up half of the 2000-foot island of Amanu. It is the only inhabited place on the atoll and they rarely get visitors. What made this stop special was the warmth of the people.

After our flower and music greeting, passengers walked to the village center for a wonderful dance show put on by the island’s beautiful children.

The entire village was there to enjoy the day. In the center of the village, a feast of freshly caught fish and clams along with bread, fresh coconut juice, and cakes were made by the locals.

Salads and other courses were brought from the ship. This lunch featured the traditional Tahitian dish of raw fish cooked in lime and coconut milk.

The island has a church, meeting hall, some ruins as well as a rocky beach where water shoes were needed to cool off.

Gambier Islands

The Aranui V made a call on two different Gambier Islands on way to and from Pitcairn. Rikitea on the island of Mangareva was our largest port of call having about 1400 residents.

It is a regional shipping hub. It is also the closest port for Pitcairn residents to go home via freighter taking 32 hours.

On Rikitea, we were met at the commercial dock by a dozen women dressed up in flowers and palm leaves. This was followed by a welcome speech, dancing, and the opening of a market with several tables selling mostly black pearl jewelry.

The highlight here was the 25-minute hike up the hill to the cemetery to pay respects to the 35th and last king of Mangareva.

The view from there to the nearby islands and village below was worth the effort.

Strolling through Rikitea we viewed fortified ruins and a large church with an ornately decorated altar of shells.

Its main street is a few blocks with small food markets and a lunch café where they were happy to sell us a drink for the internet code that did not work.

Aukena was the other Gambier Island the ship stopped on our return to Tahiti. It is 1.5 miles by .3 miles in size and barely populated. For our six-hour stop, the highlights included a 20-minute hike to the top.

Here we viewed the blue lagoon, reefs, several atoll islands, and Mangareva across the way. After a beachside BBQ, it was a 10-minute walk to the back side of the island to float off a sandy beach with snorkeling a few hundred yards out. This path should be used for people sure-footed.

Hikueru was our stop. This island is less than half a mile long by 300 feet wide with about 150 people on it.

Our Polynesian experience here involved delicious food at a banquet called ma’a Tahiti. Here the villagers started at 5 AM digging a 3 by 10-foot pit.

Afterward, a fire was started to superheat rocks and coal. When the rocks got hot, steel pots of pork along with banana leave-wrapped fish, bread, and breadfruit were placed in the pit.

The pit was then covered with steel, and burlap, and topped off with a foot of sand to insulate.

The heat trapped in the pit slow-cooked everything for six hours. This was an incredible feast and our best lunch.

For the “I have not seen anything like this before”, an islander let loose what looked like a giant hermit crab weighing nine pounds. From the distance, it did not look real and was a bit scary.

This 2 ½ foot wide creature is called a coconut crab and is the largest arthropod in the world. They can live 60 years and can spread out to three feet. Their claws are the strongest in the world.

To cool off, Hikueru has a rocky beach on the lagoon side with only average snorkeling.

Aboard the Aranui V

The Aranui V is a different type of cruise ship not just in looks but operations.

Life here is casual for guests and crew. Here the captain and officers dress in shorts and a collarless “Aranui” pullover shirt showing their rank on a patch sewed in the middle.

The ship’s bridge is open day and night and the officers are happy to answer any questions.

As a licensed captain, the bridge crew was more than friendly with the questions I had about its navigation. Don’t miss a night’s visit there.

Tahitian heritage can be seen through its people aboard. We had servers that wore boar-toothed necklaces, flower headdresses, colorful airy Polynesian dresses, and of course tattoos.

We saw housekeeping and serving staff dancing and singing at the cruise end passenger show or anytime music was played.

At the main bar on deck six, it was not unusual to see several crew members after work at happy hour enjoying the Aranui V’s Polynesian band with a beer.

They sat off to the sides or next to the band but never mingled with the guests. The bar was a good place to buy a drink for a crew member that may have especially helped you.

Food and Dress

For dinner, cruisers can leave the suit and cocktail dresses at home. Most men wore a collared or “Hawaiian” style shirt.

While women always dressed better than men, they also kept it casual and comfortable. A bonus on the ship is that guests get free laundry every six days (minus underwear) so travel light.

Food was not the ships strongest point based on taste and not having choices. Dinners and lunch when on the ship were always three courses with no choices.

Menus are posted the day before and if there is something you did not like or had an allergy to, the staff would work around it. Meals were always in two sittings 30 minutes apart. with wine included.

There are 103 cabins aboard in eleven categories ranging from quad bunk beds to the Presidential suite.

We found the premium suite with a balcony at 200 square feet comfortable. The seating area was separated partially by a lattice wood wall making it easy to read while your partner was sleeping.

At check-in, upgrades were available at steep discounts so we jumped to the owner’s suite.

This included a bedroom and a small second room with a half bathroom, desk, and TV. It was perfect for my early morning work.

Television stations are in French with a movie and documentary playing each night in English. For the Pitcairn cruise, Mutiny on the Bounty was shown in French and English.

The internet and connectivity were a sore subject aboard. For $45 you get only 300 MB at modem speeds.

If you need to be connected with family or business you may have a problem.

Their Wi-Fi needs to be upgraded to standards you see on other ships that offer it free or at a reasonable daily unlimited rate. I will update this story if the connectivity is upgraded.

Aranui Future

For my next visit to Tahiti, I would go aboard the Aranui V following the footsteps of painter Paul Gauguin and author Herman Melville cruising to the Marquesas Islands. This is because the Aranui V is the most experienced ship for this remote chain of islands.

New for the company will be its first dedicated passenger ship the AraMana. The AraMana will be painted in a Polynesian motif and will carry 280 passengers throughout Tahiti and the Cook Islands. I hope to bring you a review after its launch.

For direct bookings on the Aranui V go to  https://www.aranui.com/

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8 thoughts on “ Aranui V Cruise Tahiti to the Pitcairn ”

What a find this article! Excellent information about the Aranui V and everything it offers to its travelers.

We also did the Aranui V cruise to Pitcairn Island and are impressed by the fact that Tab has provided such a remarkably comprehensive and accurate description of what we experienced. We had read reviews of what to anticipate on this cruise but none were as informative as this article. He captured all of the strengths and weaknesses of the Aranui V and anyone considering doing this trip should read this article.

Great article Tab! I really enjoyed it.

Excellent article on the most recent Aranui V voyage. Tab really covered all the bases on this unique sea going adventure. I say this because my wife Shelley and I were on the Aranui on the same voyage Tab writes about. We missed “The Whales Tooth Tavern,” while exploring Pitcairn, certainly a reason to return! I agree the food was “marginal” at best, desserts were excellent, crew fantastic. We enjoyed reliving our Aranui V voyage thru Tabs well written article and beautiful photographs.

Great article! So interesting to travel to these remote places.

The story of Pitcairn Island is definitely an intriguing one. Thank you, Tab, for your detailed account of your visit. Due to its remoteness, few of us are fortunate enough to visit this island. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing it vicariously through your lens.

Tab, thanks for bringing us along on your Tahiti adventure with descriptive text and your photography. Almost feels like we were tagging along! Great to learn all about places we don’t have on the radar yet, and without a clear & present opportunity to sojourn to the Tuamotos and Gambier Islands. You were so close to the atoll where Thor Heyerdahl on Kon Tiki made landfall; i would have enjoyed the presentation by Dr. Nesmith about the origins of the peoples of Polynesia and asked about the challenging theories offered by Heyerdahl (with some genetic corroboration no less!). Aranui Vi certainly is a curious hybrid vessel, but eminently functional. looking forward to seeing more pictures at another time. Your story brings to mind the musical South Pacific – “Most people live on a lonely island, Lost in the middle of a foggy sea. Most people long for another island, One where they know they will like to be. Bali Hai may call you, Any night, any day, In your heart, you’ll hear it call you: “Come away…Come away.”

Great article. I have always been curios about Pitcairn Island.

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Aranui 5: Passenger Freighter Back in Time

The Aranui 5 is a half-freighter and half-passenger ship plying the waters from Papeete, Tahiti through the Tuamotus Islands and onto the Marquesas Islands, known as the “Land of Men.” Once in the Marquesas Islands, you will visit seven of the Marquesas Islands, many of which are only accessible by boat.

Other than where the ship goes, what makes it so unique is that the crew is all Tahitian (mostly on the passenger side) and Marquesan (mostly on the freighter side.)

The trip is 2-weeks departing and returning from Papeete, Tahiti. In addition to stopping in the Tuamotus Islands group and the Marquesan group, you also visit Bora Bora and Moorea. This is a trip of total immersion into the culture, dancing, tattooing, history with modern updates, and being with the local people of the islands. It is a trip unique in the world now that freighters, for the most part, no longer carry passengers.

With only two days at sea, all the remaining days you are exploring islands, meeting the locals (lots of children, too), watching traditional crafts being made, and walking or hiking to amazing vistas and cultural locations. 

A few years ago, Sara Tucker, interviewed me about French Polynesia, the Marquesas Islands, and the Aranui 5 for WendyPerrin.com . Here is the link to this wonderful writer’s story of her interview with me and why! It is fun to read: 

If you have two weeks, and you love experiencing great cultures in an immersion way, you will love the Aranui 5!

When you want to know more about the Aranui 5, French Polynesia, the South Pacific, Australia or New Zealand, then give me a call!

Cheers! Have a great week!

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When I first started writing this column six years ago, one of the first cruise lines I wrote about was – and still is – one of the most unique experiences at sea.

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Aranui Cruises specializes in supercool passenger-freighter cruises around the beautiful islands of French Polynesia. The company has been doing so since 1984 with a variety of vessels, most recently the Aranui 3, which sailed for the line from 2003 until late 2015.

Aranui sails the great highway to paradise Back to video

Now, Aranui Cruises has a swanky new ship, the Aranui 5: a stunning vessel that is half cruise ship, half working freighter. At 126 metres in length, she can carry 254 guests in 103 cabins, most of which have private balconies. Her swept-back lines and arched superstructure certainly make her one of the most attractive cargo ships on the high seas, and her onboard amenities rival those of an expedition cruise ship. She’s even got a swimming pool.

The Aranui 5 sails a 14-day itinerary year-round to the Marquesas Islands, operating roundtrip from Papeete, Tahiti, which can be reached by air direct from Los Angeles and Honolulu. Aranui calls its two-week run the “great highway to paradise”, and its easy to see why: the ship offers a total of 10 different ports of call, ranging from Bora Bora’s spectacular Society Islands to Nuku Hiva, Tahuata, and Rangiroa, the latter of which features some of the best scuba diving in the world.

But this journey is unique in that part of the fun is watching Aranui 5’s cargo operations. Not merely just a pleasure cruise, this ship serves as a vital link between cities and islands, delivering goods like Copra, citrus fruit, fish and barrels of Noni that are loaded throughout the journey, destined for Papeete.

Onboard Aranui 5, guest lecturers join select departures to impart local history and culture on guests. Most lecturers for 2017 join sailings between July and October, but lecturers can be found onboard throughout much of the year.

Staterooms rival those found on more traditional cruise ships, with all cabins featuring outside views. There are four suite categories (from the spacious Presidential Suites to the cozy Junior Suites), and four standard stateroom categories, two of which have private balconies.

If you’re looking for a big-ship cruise with distractions and Broadway-style shows, this one may not be for you. But if you’re a fan of small-ship cruisers where authentic experiences and education reign supreme, check Aranui out; it’s one of the most interesting ways to visit the South Pacific.

Visit fromthedeckchair.com for the latest cruise news and voyage reports.

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bayourenaissanceman.com

The idle musings of a former military man, former computer geek, medically retired pastor and now full-time writer. Contents guaranteed to offend the politically correct and anal-retentive from time to time. My approach to life is that it should be taken with a large helping of laughter, and sufficient firepower to keep it tamed!

Half cruise liner, half cargo ship

While on the subject of shipping news (see my first post this morning), I came across a travel blog report on a unique ship:  the Aranui 5 , a vessel that’s half luxury cruise liner and half cargo carrier.

She plies the waters of French Polynesia  in the Pacific Ocean.  She’s almost literally the lifeline for much inter-island trade:  in many cases, if she doesn’t carry it, it doesn’t get there.

A travel blogger, Barbara Weibel, took a trip aboard Aranui 5 last year.  Instead of just focusing on the touristy stuff, she also studied the ship’s cargo operations , and found out more about what it was like in the old days, before powered cranes and modern vessels.  Here’s her video report.

Cruise ship passengers often pass through their destinations without thinking much about how ordinary people live there.  This cruise ship makes it impossible to ignore that, without her, the islands’ populations would be left almost destitute.  It’s an interesting combination of luxury and bare-bones necessity.

I’ve always said I’ll never take a cruise – particularly not on the monster cruise ships that tend to frequent US harbors.  Why would I pay for the “privilege” of being crammed cheek-by-jowl into an artificial steel island, surrounded by noisy people and exposed to nasty infections?  However, something like the Aranui 5 might be a very different proposition, with far fewer people and a very interesting practical itinerary, not just a tourist trap.  Have any of my readers sailed aboard her?  If so, please let us know what you thought of her in Comments.

Many freighters offer passenger accommodations, some are quite nice,

https://wikitravel.org/en/Freighter_travel

Unfortunately, passenger/cargo boats in the third world are flagged in the third world. There's a risk factor there. It's not the Staten Island Ferry that rolls over every year or two while under way. The third world is where old First world school buses and boats go to die. A purpose-built boat like this one, I'd hope would be more reputable. No work on the crew, though.

I haven't seen my Honduran Master Unlimited on Oceans license in a few years. It's in a junk drawer, I think. I bought it in the 90's when I was an Ordinary Seaman. $80. The Panamanians stopped selling them right around that time. You have to take a test now.

Looks like an update to the old idea of the tramp steamer, with cargo and passenger service in odd corners of the world. Agree with the other commenters, that YMMV and check them out first.

In response to George above, yes, and they can be quite nice. Few other passengers if any. Little crew interaction. Great for those who like to be left alone and have books or a stockpile of videos or other self-entertainment items.

Get the tourists to pay for keeping the cargo cult islands viable? Genius!

In French Polynesia? Guaranteed revenue stream, both ways.

Same sort of thing would work in the Caribbean, and the Greek isles.

Surprised the mega-cruise lines haven't glommed onto the idea already.

Agreed it would be hard to do today.

But read Jeff Cooper on the joys of first class travel before WWII or Trampe Royale. In the pre jet days I went New York (actually Jersey side IIRC) to Europe on the Queen Mary – Cunard line and all the offices Royal Navy Reserve (not even wavy navy though history shows some of the wavy navy brought a lot of experience to active duty) and home on the Rotterdam sailing from Holland. A thoroughly pleasant experience each way. And ships that traveled the North Atlantic in the winter had nothing like the wind catching freeboard of today's crowded cruise ships. Even reentering the United States was no hassle at all. Open one bag at random and waved through.

Just two weeks ago I promised my wife that if we ever had the money available we would immediately book that cruise to the Marquesas Islands. Worst nightmare: to travel on a swimming monster-casino/spa/-hotel filled to the brim with adipose all-inc-tourists addicted to shopping sprees….

You might like the Hurtigruten in Norway.

A much smaller version of this travel mode is the mail boat service of the Bahamas – – one can travel between the various islands on the postal delivery boats. It's described as a great way to see the minor, less well-known islands if one doesn't mind the slow travel times and Spartan accommodations.

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Experience Polynesia's colourful Marquesas Festival

Posted by Andrew Castles on July 26, 2017

The biennial festival is an important cultural event in the Marquesas Islands, the northernmost of Tahiti’s five archipelagoes. The 2017 mini festival will be a four-day extravaganza of Polynesian music and dance from December 18 to 21, 2017, at Tahuata, the smallest of the inhabited Marquesas Islands.

To coincide with the festival, Aranui Cruises’ will make an extended visit to Tahuata on December 20 allowing travellers to participate in a community feast and enjoy the cultural festivities well into the night.

The festival was created to keep the Marquesan culture alive and showcases the vibrant traditions of the remote island group with visitors treated to rhythmical dances, powerful drum performances, games and contests of strength and skill, as well as chanting, sculpting and tattoo demonstrations.

As a regular visitor to the far-flung Marquesas Islands, Aranui Cruises are a unique position to showcase these extraordinary islands to the world and there is no better time to visit than during one of their spectacular festivals. As with any major event, accommodation and flights are at a premium during the festival so the easiest and smoothest way to experience the Marquesas Festival is with Aranui Cruises.

During its 14-day roundtrip cruises from Papeete , the 126-metre long mixed cargo and passenger vessel dispenses cargo while guests disembark and explore nine islands across three striking and distinct Tahitian archipelagoes. Travellers can enjoy Bora Bora and its famed blue lagoon; the chance to walk in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson, Herman Melville and Paul Gauguin on Nuka Hiva, Ua Pou, Ua Huka, Tahuata, Fatu Hiva and Hiva Oa in the far-flung Marquesas; and the picturesque Tuamotu ports of Fakarava and Rangiroa.

Departing on December 14, 2017, the Marquesas Festival cruise is priced from $8,670* twin share for a premium suite and $7,970* per person twin share for a superior deluxe room, both featuring a balcony.

Aranui 5 also features a restaurant, two conference rooms, lounges, a library, a boutique, a swimming pool, a fitness room, a spa and four bars including the popular Sky bar. 

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French Polynesia, of all places, is about to be at the vanguard of cruising's return

Update: Some offers mentioned below are no longer available. View the current offers  here .

French Polynesia isn't the biggest cruise destination in the world. But it's about to be at the forefront of the cruise industry's move to get ships sailing again.

In the wake of the South Pacific destination's announcement that it would reopen to tourists on July 15 , one of the region's best-known cruise operators, Paul Gauguin Cruises, on Tuesday announced plans to restart operations on July 11 -- just 24 days from now.

Owned by international line Ponant, Paul Gauguin Cruises said its one ship, the 332-passenger Paul Gauguin, initially would offer sailings for the local French Polynesian market only. Trips for international travelers will start on July 29.

The announcement comes as another one of French Polynesia's main cruise sellers, Aranui Cruises, prepares to resume voyages for tourists on July 18. Aranui Cruises sells trips to little-visited French Polynesian islands year-round on an unusual vessel that is half-freighter, half- cruise-ship .

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Like Paul Gauguin Cruises, Aranui is marketing its first tourist sailing on its single vessel, Aranui 5, as a "local's cruise," but the company says the trip will be open to any international traveler who is permitted to travel to Tahiti at the time. Like Paul Gauguin, Aranui 5 is based is Papeete, Tahiti.

Aranui 5's main function is to deliver cargo to French Polynesia's remote Marquesas Islands, which it visits on a 13-day loop. But it also is designed to carry tourists as well as local travelers. It has 103 cabins that can hold up to 254 passengers.

Aranui Cruises says the sailing starting July 18 will include stops at rarely visited Makatea and Apataki (Tuamotu archipelago) instead of the ship's normal port calls in Fakarava, Rangiroa and Bora Bora . The itinerary still will include calls at the six inhabited Marquesas Islands where Aranui 5 will deliver cargo.

Aranui 5 never stopped delivering cargo to the Marquesas Islands during the coronavirus pandemic . It just stopped taking tourists along. Tourists haven't been allowed on the ship since early March.

Known as one of the most bizarre-looking vessels designed for accommodating paying passengers in the world, the four-year-old ship has quickly become a bucket list attraction for many hard-core cruise fans.

Paul Gauguin's first sailing for international travelers on July 29 will be a 10-night trip out of Papeete, Tahiti, to the nearby islands of Huahine, Bora Bora, Motu Mahana, and Moorea as well as the atolls of Rangiroa and Fakarava in the Tuamotu Archipelago.

There is one other vessel that offers cruises year-round in French Polynesia: Windstar Cruises ' 148-passenger Wind Spirit. It also sails out of Papeete.

Related: The best ways to get to French Polynesia on points and miles

Windstar has said Wind Spirit will resume sailing on Sept. 3. The ship typically sails seven-night loops from Tahiti to nearby Moorea, Raiatea, Motu Mahaea, Bora Bora and Huahine.

Like Aranui 5, Wind Spirit is a bit unusual as ships for cruising go. It's a hybrid vessel that can sail under both wind power and motors. The sails on its four large masts are operated automatically.

New restrictions for entry into Tahiti

Would-be cruisers will need to meet some new requirements to enter Tahiti for one of the above sailings. For starters, the French Polynesian government says visitors will need to show proof of a negative COVID-19 PCR test taken no earlier than 72 hours before departure.

Visitors also will have to show proof of international travel insurance. Luckily, credit card travel insurance satisfies this requirement. Use a card like the Chase Sapphire Preferred® Card to pay for your airfare to Tahiti, then provide a copy of the card's Guide to Benefits as proof of coverage.

Related: Everything you need to know about French Polynesia's reopening

Other cruise lines restarting operations

The mid-July resumption of cruising in French Polynesia comes as several river lines and small-ship operators in Europe begin restarting operations with trips aimed at a local market. A small American Cruise Lines vessel that sails on the Columbia River in the Pacific Northwest also is planning to restart operations in the coming days.

But most major cruise lines aren't expected to resume sailings for many months.

Every major cruise line in the world suspended departures in mid-March as the coronavirus outbreak grew, and it's likely many lines will remain completely shut down through the end of summer and even well into the fall.

Additional resources for cruisers during the coronavirus outbreak:

• Why you shouldn't expect bargain-basement cruise deals anytime soon
• How to cancel or postpone a cruise due to coronavirus
• Expecting a refund for a canceled cruise? Here's how long it will take
• Good news for cruisers worried about strict new boarding rules
• Some of the year's hottest new ships could be delayed
• Stream these 13 movies, television shows to get your cruise ship fix

POLYNESIA CRUISE: THE ARANUI EXPERIENCE

Polynesia cruise aboard Aranui

The Aranui 5 is a dual-purpose passenger/freighter ship that sails from Tahiti to the Marquesas, Tuamotu and Society Islands in French Polynesia on a 12 day all-inclusive cruise . Designed to offer all of the comforts of a cruise liner , while operating as a supply ship, Aranui 5 is classified as a small vessel , accommodating approximately 230 passengers in 103 cabins.

ITINERARIES OF OUR POLYNESIA CRUISES

For the past 40 years , the Aranui, with its Polynesian staff and crew, has been introducing the mystical islands of the Marquesas to the outside world. We are always received with a warm welcome by the inhabitants of these  remote islands  , as the ship represents a vital link to the outside world. At the  six inhabited islands of the Marquesas , the Aranui unloads goods destined for the Marquesans and returns to Papeete laden with a cargo of copra, lemons, fish and barrels of “Noni”. Meanwhile passengers disembark to explore the islands and experience the richness of the Marquesas from the people and the history to the culture and breathtaking scenery.

In addition to its traditional itinerary to the Marquesas Islands, Aranui Cruises offers exceptional cruises to every island group in French Polynesia including the Austral , Gambier , Society and Tuamotu Islands , as well as neighbouring Pitcairn and Cook Islands . These unique itineraries  feature some of the most remote and rarely visited places in the world.  Step out of the ordinary and head off-the-beaten path  and be prepared to be amazed by the wonders of French Polynesia.

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Cruise News: Culinary Sailings, French Polynesia by Ship

By Elaine Glusac

• Nov. 16, 2015

WINDSTAR LAUNCHES JAMES BEARD CRUISES

Cruises have long been known for the quantity, rather than the quality, of the food. But Windstar Cruises aims to challenge conventional dining with three culinary-themed cruises in 2016 in partnership with the James Beard Foundation. Each sailing will feature a chef who has won or been nominated for a James Beard award; the list of chefs will be announced in January. The trips include an eight-day cruise around southern Spain and Morocco departing April 24, 2016, aboard the 310-passenger Wind Surf with stops in Lisbon, Granada, Ibiza, Tangier and Barcelona. Two 10-day trips to Spain, Portugal and France , departing June 10 and Aug. 9 on the 212-passenger Star Legend, stop in St.-Malo and Oporto and overnight in Bordeaux. On both itineraries, host chefs will offer two cooking demonstrations, a nightly dish and a culinary-focused excursion. Trips include wine tastings and many wine-paired meals. Fares start at $2,499 a person.

SHIPPING OFF TO POLYNESIA

Half cruise ship, half freighter, the Aranui 5 will launch Dec. 12 in French Polynesia. The 254-passenger ship will replace the 200-passenger Aranui 3 and run the same route from Tahiti to the Marquesas Islands, where it delivers supplies 17 times a year, and back again. Fourteen-day itineraries include a new stopover in Bora Bora before returning to Papeete. The new ship also offers more suites with balconies and additional public areas, which include a restaurant, four bars, swimming pool and fitness room, for more comfortable cruises through paradise. Fares start at $2,781 a person, including some shore excursions.

FAR FROM FRIENDS AND FAMILY? MEET IN THE MIDDLE

For those hoping to meet a geographically distant friend or family member, but want to share the travel equally, Airbnb and PayPal propose a compromise: Meet Halfway . The new service, introduced today, calculates the midway point between two travelers, refers them to Airbnb for bookings and offers a $50-off discount if paying with PayPal on a reservation over $200 (use the promo code MEETHALFWAY). The special is good through Dec. 31 for travel today through 2016. Travelers with three starting points can add their addresses for group reunions and ask the service to find the most equitable midpoint. If that halfway location falls in the middle of nowhere, the site will redirect you to the nearest somewhere, or city.

A NEW HOTEL AT THE DENVER AIRPORT

On Friday, in time for the busy Thanksgiving travel season, the Westin Denver International Airport hotel will open. Although there are many hotels near the airport, the Westin is the first at the airport, less than 200 feet from central Jeppesen Terminal. The 519-room glass structure includes a restaurant with an outdoor patio, an indoor pool and hot tub, and rental workout gear in case you forgot yours (or the airline lost it). It will reside atop a transit center that will offer direct train service to downtown Denver, beginning in April. Opening weekend rates start at $218.

AMERICAN TAKES OFF FOR NEW ZEALAND

American Airlines has announced new service between Los Angeles and Auckland, New Zealand, set to start in June 2016, pending regulatory approval. American plans to operate the new Auckland service daily with a Boeing 787-8 Dreamliner, including international Wi-Fi, more humidity in the cabins and power outlets at every seat. The move is part of American’s joint business agreement with Australia-based Qantas, still pending regulatory approval, to work together to coordinate connections. The airline has already announced new service to Sydney next month from LAX and says it has added six trans-Pacific routes in the past three years.

Come Sail Away

Love them or hate them, cruises can provide a unique perspective on travel..

 Cruise Ship Surprises: Here are five unexpected features on ships , some of which you hopefully won’t discover on your own.

 Icon of the Seas: Our reporter joined thousands of passengers on the inaugural sailing of Royal Caribbean’s Icon of the Seas . The most surprising thing she found? Some actual peace and quiet .

Th ree-Year Cruise, Unraveled:  The Life at Sea cruise was supposed to be the ultimate bucket-list experience : 382 port calls over 1,095 days. Here’s why  those who signed up are seeking fraud charges  instead.

TikTok’s Favorite New ‘Reality Show’:  People on social media have turned the unwitting passengers of a nine-month world cruise  into  “cast members”  overnight.

Dipping Their Toes: Younger generations of travelers are venturing onto ships for the first time . Many are saving money.

Cult Cruisers: These devoted cruise fanatics, most of them retirees, have one main goal: to almost never touch dry land .

What it's like to sail aboard a container ship, where travelers trade the amenities of a cruise ship for solitude

• Leisure cruising aboard a freighter vessel is a beloved but niche form of travel.
• Unlike a cruise ship, there are no nightclubs, water slides, and crowds of people aboard a freighter.
• See what it's like sailing aboard a cargo vessel and how it compares to a traditional cruise.

Imagine two weeks out at sea aboard a behemoth ship.

No, not on a cruise ship with bars, pools, water slides, and hospitality — we're talking about a freighter vessel used to transport cargo between ports.

Sailing on a freighter doesn't have the same frills of taking a cruise with Royal Caribbean or Carnival: There's no WiFi, no nightclubs, and no plush bars.

And for the most part, you could be stuck on these ships for two to three weeks at a time.

To some leisure travelers, this form of travel may seem hellish. After all, aren't you vacationing for a relaxing, pampering getaway?

But to a niche set of travelers, sailing aboard a cargo cruise — just you, a handful of other travelers, and the crew — is a dreamy way to unplug from the excess luxuries of the world.

And travelers are willing to pay $100 to $150 a day to cruise on a cargo ship.

Source: Insider

"It's got a unique smell of pitch, sea salt, food, and stale bodies. It gets in your blood," Hamish Jamieson, founder of New Zealand-based Freighter Travel, told Insider. "It's a wee bit like going to your favorite cabin in the middle of autumn."

You won't find the typical cruise sights of sunburning tourists, nighttime shows, and children swimming in pools on a freighter ship.

Instead, imagine a quieter, more meditative form of travel.

"The limited activities you can do onboard helps you calm down," Arne Gudde, founder of Berlin-based Slowtravel, told Insider.

Travelers still get their own hotel room-like cabin filled with furnishings like a bathroom, bed, closet, couch, desk, and power outlets.

And there are some onboard amenities reminiscent of that of a cruise ship, like a communal library, and gym.

Like a typical cruise, passengers still get three meals a day, including occasionally luxurious feasts like steak, coq au vin, and salmon.

But unlike a Royal Caribbean cruise where tours of "behind the scenes" sections of the ship come at an extra cost, travelers on a freighter ship are free to explore the engine room and visit the bridge, the vessel's command center.

And the crew aren't there to provide travelers with on-call hospitality, comfort, and service, although they're often eager to chat about the ins and outs of a freighter and life at sea.

Gudde suggests bringing a book, watching a movie, or exploring the nooks and crannies of the ship.

Just make sure you pack efficiently — Freighter Travel allows about 221 pounds worth of luggage per person, and about 55-pounds per bag, Jamieson said.

But most importantly, bring your patience. You’ll need lots of it while managing the superfluity of time to yourself at sea and dealing with the logistics of cargo transport.

Travelers looking to cruise on a freighter are still subject to the unpredictability of the ship’s schedule: It’s not there for the purpose of bringing you from one destination to another.

"Flexibility is the key," Jamieson said. "But it's also half the fun."

If this has piqued your interest in freighter travel, unfortunately, you'll have to be patient.

Cargo cruises are still stalled amid COVID-19, creating wait lists as long as hundreds, maybe thousands of people, Gudde said.

Fans of this much-beloved form of "slow travel" are patiently hoping for a return later this year or in 2023.

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Due to Covid, The CMA CGM have decided to permanently cease passenger services on their cargo ships. Without the French Line, the only large pre-Covid provider, our activity will remain based on Specialty Cruises only, such as the ARANUI and Bella Desgagnés

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Cargo ship cruise to every destination

Cargoholidays the best freight cruise arround.

Cargo ship cruise to every destination. A freighter is probably exactly what you think it is: a cargo ship that travels the world delivering goods and products. Most of the major global freighter lines, CMA-CGM, Canada Maritime on Cargo ship cruise, and Freighter World Cruise offer any person seeking adventure the chance to come aboard for a fare on Cargo ship. As a paying passenger, you are accommodated in guest cabins and have access to most areas of the ship. While freighter travel is not as unaccommodating as one may think, it is generally for people who would prefer a laid-back setting on ship cruise, with a more rugged edge to it than your standard Carnival cruise. Some amenities you’ll see on a large cruise ship won’t be available on a smaller freighter ship for Cargo ship cruise.

Where can you go? Anywhere goods are delivered! The global shipping industry is huge; think of how many ports welcome cargo ships every day. For example, Freighter World Travel offers a 55-day trip from Long Beach, California via two ports in New Zealand, three ports in Australia and other stops in Tahiti, Mexico, Washington, and British Columbia in cargo cruise to travel by Cargo ship cruise to every destination for Cargo ship cruise. This, however on Cargo ship, is just one of Freighter World Travel’s routes. All shipping companies have certain freighters covering routes specific to their company. So shop around for a freighter that goes to the right places for you. The length of the trip will depend on you. Many tickets can be bought round trip or from your starting port to only one other port; it all depends on where you want to go, which is the beauty of freighter travel! Some trips can be as short as 15 days or as long as 120 days for Cargo ship cruise. The shortest passages are transatlantic and these vary between 8 and 12 days each way, while a freighter voyage can make it around the world in between 80 and 120 days on ship cruise. Many people do not like to go all the way around the world due to time and money. Segmented trips are possible with a stopover in port for as long as you want. You can resume your voyage or fly home by plane if you have had enough. Segmented trips are perfect for people who do not have a lot of time to spend.

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Passenger carrying cargo ships

I often wondered if there is a vast untapped market for such vessels? There used to be hundreds of these ships around the world.

[B]Half Cruise Ship, Half Freighter Debuts 2015[/B]

By Kathryn Stone 2015-05-26 14:46:57

At first glance, it is hard to know what to make of the Aranui 5. It is clearly some kind of passenger vessel, but it is also appears to be a freight vessel. The ship is in fact both and is set to begin voyages in French Polynesia in late November. The Aranui 5 is replacing its predecessor, the Aranui 3 on a dual mission to bring travelers and commodities to the Marquesas Islands, the remotest archipelago in the world.

The Aranui 5 will complete a circuit of 2,200 miles leaving from Papeete, the capital of French Polynesia, and traveling to all six inhabited islands in the Marquesas chain. Making it into the archipelago alone takes over three day’s sea journey. Also, vessel has the largest number of passenger berths of any cargo ship allowing for passenger capacity of around 260 up over 50 passengers from its predecessor that has been in operation since 2003.

The 125 meter (410 foot) ship can carry over 2,000 tons of freight. The vessel both allows visitors access to the remote Polynesian Islands made famous by Paul Gauguin, but it also carries supplies, fuel and other staples to the remote island ports otherwise cut off from commerce. However, the ship does not just make deliveries, it also receives imports form the islands in the form of dried coconut, citrus and fish.

Although the Aranui 5 is unique in design, it represents a concept that has been around in the shipping industry for many years: the fusion of cargo and cruising. Currently, there are about 300 passenger carrying cargo ships in the shipping industry, which can carry up to a maximum of 12 passengers (over this number the ship must maintain a doctor aboard). The sea travel company Cruise People Ltd. even state that all freighter voyages they showcase are aboard vessels with outside staterooms and swimming pools available.

CMA CGM, the third largest container shipping company notes on its website that 874 passengers traveled onboard its vessels in 2013. As a selling point, the company advertises passage aboard its largest vessels the 16,020TEU containerships CMA CGM Marco Polo and CMA CGM Alexander von Humbolt. The various itineraries the ships offer include passage from the U.S. to Asia and Asia to the Mediterranean.

Similarly, Rickmers Line offers various itineraries including a 124 around the world voyage. However, the company now prohibits passenger transportation between Genoa and Singapore as some passengers failed to heed the crew’s warning about being on deck in known pirate zones. Typical pricing for such a trip is around $135 per person per day.

There are even online guides for freighter travel that give stories from previous passengers and teach laymen maritime terminology that they will need for their voyage.

You can carry 16passengers on a US flag cargo vessel as long as you aren’t sailing foreign. Think of the possibilities of offering cruises in Alaska to garden spots like Dutch Harbor or St. Paul in January?

If you build it they will come. Don’t know if Eco-tourism is trending up or down at the moment but I’m sure there would be a market for that sort of travel based on the sheer numbers traveling on the main line cruise ships up there in the summer. Once they get bored with the typical first time Alaska cruise and are ready to try something new. Incorporate a lecture series on the region’s history, geology, etc Maybe add a few small labs and see if you can get money from UNOLS to carry a few scientists too. Bet there are people who would love to travel and “work” alongside scientists, take in a lecture on local history at night and watch cargo ops in port.

I wish there were US vessels like that. I’d love to work on something like that. I don’t think, in today’s age, it’s feasible though. At least not for Americans.

Couple this with yesterday’s article saying that plumb bows are more efficient than big flared bows with bulbous protrusions and we could see a renaissance of some pretty classy looking vessels! Now if we could just convince someone to power one of these things with a couple of triple expansion steam engines and we’d be all set!

Some neighbors used to take a cruise on the same freighter down through Central and South America with a canal transit every year. I think the trips were 4 to 6 weeks. They were upset when the ship was sold about 12 years ago. Said most passengers were repeat customers that would rebook at least a year ahead of time.

[I]12 passengers (over this number the ship must maintain a doctor aboard).[/I] does anyone know the source of this? i cannot find any regulations on line stating that ships carrying more than 12 passengers must have a doctor on board. thanks in advance for the assistance!

[I]" …can carry up to a maximum of 12 passengers (over this number the ship must maintain a doctor aboard)."[/I]

does anyone know the legislative source for the above requirement for maintaining a doctor on board? thanks!

I think the 12 passenger rule comes from SOLAS, and its implementing regulations. Under SOLAS, a ship inspected as a freighter may carry up to 12 passengers, but a ship that carries over 12 passengers must be inspected as a passenger ship. I do not know what triggers a requirement for a doctor on a passenger ship.

thanks for the feedback tugsailor! it is appreciated.

[QUOTE=tugsailor;162988]I think the 12 passenger rule comes from SOLAS, and its implementing regulations. Under SOLAS, a ship inspected as a freighter may carry up to 12 passengers, but a ship that carries over 12 passengers must be inspected as a passenger ship. I do not know what triggers a requirement for a doctor on a passenger ship.[/QUOTE]

There is no trigger, at least not under US law, as far as I can tell. I believe SOLAS does not apply here, either. Cruise ships carry a doctor for practical and competitive reasons. Since passengers are not required to pass a physical, it makes sense.

However, there may be applicable requirements from other flags of registry.

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The current position of CMA CGM MARCO POLO is at East Asia reported 3 days ago by AIS. The vessel is en route to the port of Manzanillo, Mexico , sailing at a speed of 17.5 knots and expected to arrive there on May 26, 03:00 . The vessel CMA CGM MARCO POLO (IMO 9454436, MMSI 311000923) is a Container Ship built in 2012 (12 years old) and currently sailing under the flag of Bahamas .

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Endangered orca habitat sullied by Canadian cruise ship pollution

Cruise ships are jeopardizing endangered southern resident killer whales by dumping billions of litres of polluted wastewater into the ocean, new federal government documents reveal.

There was a 14-fold increase in the total number of ships employing scrubber technology in coastal waters between 2018 and 2022, recent data submitted by Environment and Climate Change Canada (ECCC) to an international environment organization revealed.

In 2022 alone, a total of 466 ships with scrubbers discharged more than 88 million tonnes of acidic wastewater loaded with heavy metals and other pollutants along the West Coast, according to ECCC estimates. Many of those pollutants include toxic contaminants listed as one of the top concerns in recovery plans for the 74 remaining endangered southern resident killer whales, said Anna Barford, shipping campaigner for Stand.earth Canada.

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The new details on scrubber pollution came to light in the ECCC response document after Stand.earth filed a complaint to the Commission for Environmental Cooperation (CEC), an international forum through which Canada, the U.S. and Mexico address shared environmental concerns.

Stand.earth’s complaint alleges Canada is failing to enforce existing laws, especially under the Fisheries Act, to prevent scrubber pollution from cruise ships and other vessels from harming the marine environment, Barford said.

“There’s no longer any plausible deniability from Canada that scrubbers are not harmful, or that scrubbers discharges should be allowed,” she said.

“We know now we need to be doing better for whales and for our communities.”

Scrubbers are exhaust-cleaning technology that draws fresh seawater to “wash” regulated pollutants, such as sulfur dioxide and other carcinogens and toxic metals, from a ship’s exhaust. That water is then flushed into the ocean.

The devices are a loophole for shipping companies to continue burning cheaper dirty heavy fuel oils while still complying with the International Maritime Organization’s (IMO) sulfur emissions standards .

Cruise ships using dirty scrubber systems on Canada's West Coast spewed out nearly half of the 88 million tonnes of acidic wastewater and toxic metals generated and dumped into the ocean in 2022, new data sparked by a Stand.earth complaint shows.

Cruise ships on Canada's West Coast produced nearly half of the 88 billlion tonnes of polluted scrubber wash water dumped into the ocean despite making up only a small percentage of the number of ships using the dirty technology. Photo of a cruise ship in Victoria Harbour by Rochelle Baker / Canada's National Observer

Cruise ships are the top offenders, accounting for nearly 46 per cent of all scrubber pollution despite making up only five per cent of the total number of vessels using the technology, ECCC data shows.

The Stand.earth complaint to the CEC is the first involving Canada and part of a concerted push for more accountability and transparency by the federal government on scrubber pollution, Barford said, particularly on the part of Transport Canada, the agency responsible for regulating pollution from shipping.

“Having that reply from Canada, about the incredible volume of [toxic] criteria contaminants coming out of scrubbers going into critical habitat, that's important information for us,” she added.

An estimated 26,000 kilograms of toxic metals associated with burning of fossil fuels were “scrubbed” and discharged in the form of wash water along the West Coast in 2022, especially large amounts of vanadium, nickel, copper and lead, the ECCC report showed.

The scrubber pollution also contained hundreds of kilograms of PAHphe, carcinogenic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons that are particularly harmful to aquatic life .

Copper, lead, PAHs and cadmium are considered key culprits behind the declining numbers of Chinook salmon, which are the primary food source for southern resident killer whales.

More than 26 million tonnes of scrubber wastewater were dumped into the whales’ critical habitat in the southern Salish Sea in 2022, including more than 8,000 kilograms of toxic metals. Cruise ships were responsible for approximately 44 per cent of the pollution, according to the environment ministry.

The billions of litres of scrubber wastewater also compound ocean acidification — already pronounced on B.C.’s coast — that hinders marine species such as oysters, clams and crabs from forming their protective shells in the early stages of life, Barford added.

It’s extremely frustrating because the problem of scrubber wastewater is entirely preventable, she stressed, citing California, Denmark and other European Union nations as jurisdictions where ships are mandated to burn cleaner fuel or prohibited from using scrubbers or dumping wastewater.

Stand.earth and the Canadian Parks and Wilderness Society’s B.C. chapter (CPAWS BC) released a public report Monday urging Transport Canada to create more stringent regulations to close the loophole for scrubber pollution and other lax cruise ship wastewater rules, especially in marine protected areas (MPA) and highly sensitive ecosystems.

Transport Canada issued a set of temporary regulations last June , however, Barford said the new but inadequate standards around cruise ships' discharge of sewage and greywater failed to address scrubber pollution in any way.

Transport Minister Pablo Rodriguez has the opportunity to plug the gaps permitting the ongoing contamination of some of Canada’s most sensitive coastlines when he extends or renews cruise ship wastewater regulations again next month, she said.

That cruise ships aren’t banned from dumping massive volumes of scrubber water, sewage and greywater — which includes kitchen water, laundry detergent, cleaning products, food waste, cooking oils and grease and microplastics — into marine protected areas is another gaping regulatory hole, she added.

The regulations as they currently stand pose a significant threat to the creation and protection of the pending Great Bear Sea MPA network, said Kate MacMillan, ocean conservation director at CPAWS BC.

Exemptions built into the current cruise ship discharge regulations also mean approximately 35 per cent of the proposed ocean conservation network along the central coast can be “toilets” for untreated sewage and greywater, the Stand.earth report suggests.

The cruise ship industry is booming and if left unaddressed, the wake of pollution on the coast will only increase, Barford said. Vancouver, the busiest port of call for cruises on the coast, is expecting at least 329 cruise ship visits this season, as well as a two per cent jump in passenger visits over 2023’s record of 1.24 million .

The report urges Canada to designate no-discharge zones for sewage and greywater, treated or untreated, in the Great Bear Sea and other conservation areas, ban outright scrubber wastewater discharge in all Canadian waters and pair the measures with a rigorous third-party on-board monitoring program.

Ocean conservation areas don’t only preserve hot spots of biodiversity, they also sustain cultures and communities along the length of the coast, MacMillan said.

“It’s not just orca health we are worried about,” she said. “These contaminants are dumped into waters where people fish and harvest shellfish to feed and support their families.”

Neither Transport Canada nor the office of Pablo Rodriguez responded to an interview request or questions from Canada’s National Observer.

Rochelle Baker / Local Journalism Initiative / Canada's National Observer

• Rochelle Baker

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Remember the ship that crashed into the Baltimore bridge? The crew are still on board

21 people aboard the dali ship, motionless for more than 50 days, are vital to investigations, officials say.

Controlled explosions set off on collapsed Baltimore bridge during cleanup

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The cargo ship Dali experienced electrical blackouts about 10 hours before leaving the Port of Baltimore and yet again shortly before it slammed into the Francis Key Bridge and killed six construction workers, federal investigators said Tuesday, providing the most detailed account yet of the tragedy.

The first power outage occurred after a crew member mistakenly closed an exhaust damper while conducting maintenance, causing one of the ship's diesel engines to stall, investigators with the National Transportation Safety Board (NTSB) said in their preliminary report.

Shortly after leaving Baltimore early on March 26, the ship crashed into one of the bridge's supporting columns because another power outage caused it to lose steering and propulsion at the exact worst moment.

The report provides new details about how the ship's crew addressed the power issues it experienced while still docked in Baltimore.

A full investigation could take a year or more, according to the safety board. Meanwhile, the FBI has opened an investigation to see if any criminal charges are warranted.

A 21-member crew of Indian and Sri Lankan men has spent the last 50 days confined to the hulking and motionless cargo vessel, with their phones seized by investigators.

Darrell Wilson, a spokesperson for Synergy Marine, the Dali's Singapore-based management company, said earlier this week the men will remain on the ship "for the foreseeable future" as the crash investigations continue.

Wilson said crewmembers have stayed busy, focused on the many tasks of running a large cargo vessel. They've also participated in the ongoing federal investigation and assisted with salvage operations of the collapsed bridge.

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While the men have been given new phones, the old ones contained their contacts, family photos and banking apps for transferring money.

Significant power issues, but not at previous ports

According to the preliminary NTSB report, tests of the ship's fuel did not reveal any concerns related to its quality.

The Dali was headed from Baltimore to Sri Lanka, laden with shipping containers and enough supplies for a month-long voyage. It arrived in the U.S. from Singapore on March 19, and investigators said they were not aware of any power outages occurring in previous stops made at ports in Newark, N.J., and Norfolk, Va.

After the initial blackout caused by the closed exhaust damper, investigators say a backup generator automatically came on. It continued to run for a short period — until insufficient fuel pressure caused it to kick off again, resulting in a second blackout. That's when crew members made changes to the ship's electrical configuration, switching from one transformer and breaker system that had been in use for several months to another that was active upon its departure, according to the report.

Up close to the Baltimore bridge collapse wreckage

Investigators stopped short of drawing a direct line between those earlier power issues and the blackout that ultimately caused the bridge collapse.

"The NTSB is still investigating the electrical configuration following the first in-port blackout and potential impacts on the events during the accident voyage," investigators wrote.

They said they're working with Hyundai, the manufacturer of the ship's electrical system, to "identify the cause(s) of the breakers unexpectedly opening while approaching the Key Bridge and the subsequent blackouts."

2 people escape death in chaotic moments: report

The preliminary report details the chaotic moments prior to the bridge collapse while crew members scrambled to address a series of electrical failures that came in quick succession as disaster loomed.

At 1:25 a.m. local time on March 26, when the Dali was a little over half a mile away from the bridge, electrical breakers that fed most of the ship's equipment and lighting unexpectedly tripped, causing a power loss. The main propulsion diesel engine automatically shut down after its cooling pumps lost power, and the ship lost steering.

How protected are Canadian bridges from collisions?

Crew members were able to momentarily restore electricity by manually closing the tripped breakers, the report says.

Around that time, the ship's pilots called for tugboats to come help guide the wayward vessel. The tugboats that guided it out of the port had peeled off earlier per normal practice, according to the report. Crew members also started the process of dropping anchor.

The ship was less than a quarter of a mile from the bridge when it experienced a second power blackout because of more tripped breakers, according to the report. The crew again restored power, but it was too late to avoid striking the bridge.

One of the pilots ordered the rudder turned at the last minute, but since the main engine remained shut down, there was no propulsion to assist with steering, the report says. They also made a mayday call that allowed police to stop traffic to the bridge.

At 1:29 a.m., the 2.6-kilometre steel span came crashing down into the Patapsco River. The construction workers were sitting in their vehicles during a break when disaster struck.

The last of the victims' bodies was recovered last week.

One member of the seven-person roadwork crew survived the collapse by somehow freeing himself from his work truck. He was rescued from the water later that morning. A road maintenance inspector also survived by running to safety in the moments before the bridge fell.

On Monday, crews conducted a controlled demolition to break down the largest remaining span of the collapsed bridge, which landed draped across the Dali's bow. The ship is expected to be guided back to the Port of Baltimore in the coming days.

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Subscriber only, national news | cargo ship that caused baltimore bridge collapse had power blackouts hours before leaving port.

Remnants of the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge and the cargo ship Dali are seen, Sunday, May 12, 2024, in Baltimore. For safety reasons, officials postponed a controlled demolition, which was planned for Sunday, to break down the largest remaining span of the collapsed bridge. The bridge came crashing down under the impact of the massive container ship on March 26. (AP Photo/Steve Ruark)

The collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge rests on the container ship Dali, Sunday, May 12, 2024, in Baltimore, as seen from Riviera Beach, Md. An effort to remove sections of the collapsed bridge resting on the Dali was postponed on Sunday. (AP Photo/Mark Schiefelbein)

A bird flies past the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge resting on the container ship Dali on Sunday, May 12, 2024, in Baltimore, as seen from Riviera Beach, Md. An effort to remove sections of the collapsed bridge resting on the Dali was postponed on Sunday. (AP Photo/Mark Schiefelbein)

BALTIMORE (AP) — The cargo ship Dali experienced electrical blackouts about 10 hours before leaving the Port of Baltimore and yet again shortly before it slammed into the Francis Key Bridge and killed six construction workers , federal investigators said Tuesday, providing the most detailed account yet of the tragedy.

The first power outage occurred after a crew member mistakenly closed an exhaust damper while conducting maintenance, causing one of the ship’s diesel engines to stall, investigators with the National Transportation Safety Board said in their preliminary report. Shortly after leaving Baltimore early on March 26, the ship crashed into one of the bridge’s supporting columns because another power outage caused it to lose steering and propulsion at the exact worst moment.

The report provides new details about how the ship’s crew addressed the power issues it experienced while still docked in Baltimore. A full investigation could take a year or more, according to the safety board.

Testing of the ship’s fuel did not reveal any concerns related to its quality, according to the report.

The Dali was headed from Baltimore to Sri Lanka, laden with shipping containers and enough supplies for a monthlong voyage.

After the initial blackout caused by the closed exhaust damper, investigators say a backup generator automatically came on. It continued to run for a short period — until insufficient fuel pressure caused it to kick off again, resulting in a second blackout. That’s when crew members made changes to the ship’s electrical configuration, switching from one transformer and breaker system that had been in use for several months to another that was active upon its departure, according to the report.

Investigators stopped short of drawing a direct line between those earlier power issues and the blackout that ultimately caused the bridge collapse.

“The NTSB is still investigating the electrical configuration following the first in-port blackout and potential impacts on the events during the accident voyage,” investigators wrote.

The safety board launched its investigation almost immediately after the collapse, which sent six members of a roadwork crew plunging to their deaths. Investigators boarded the ship to document the scene and collect evidence, including the vessel’s data recorder and information from its engine room, according to board chair Jennifer Homendy. Investigators also interviewed the captain and crew members.

“Our mission is to determine why something happened, how it happened and to prevent it from recurring,” Homendy said at a news conference days after the disaster.

The preliminary report details the chaotic moments prior to the bridge collapse while crew members scrambled to address a series of electrical failures that came in quick succession as disaster loomed.

At 1:25 a.m. on March 26, when the Dali was a little over half a mile away from the bridge, electrical breakers that fed most of the ship’s equipment and lighting unexpectedly tripped, causing a power loss. The main propulsion diesel engine automatically shut down after its cooling pumps lost power, and the ship lost steering.

Crew members were able to momentarily restore electricity by manually closing the tripped breakers, the report says.

Around that time, the ship’s pilots called for tugboats to come help guide the wayward vessel. The tugboats that guided it out of the port had peeled off earlier per normal practice, according to the report. Crew members also started the process of dropping anchor, and the pilots’ dispatcher called the Maryland Transportation Authority Police and relayed that the ship had lost power. The pilots’ dispatcher notified the Coast Guard.

The ship was less than a quarter of a mile from the bridge when it experienced a second power blackout because of more tripped breakers, according to the report. The crew again restored power, but it was too late to avoid striking the bridge.

One of the pilots ordered the rudder turned at the last minute, but since the main engine remained shut down, there was no propulsion to assist with steering, the report says. They also made a mayday call that allowed police to stop traffic to the bridge.

At 1:29 a.m., the 1.6-mile steel span came crashing down into the Patapsco River. The construction workers were sitting in their vehicles during a break when disaster struck.

The last of the victims’ bodies was recovered last week.

One member of the seven-person roadwork crew survived the collapse by somehow freeing himself from his work truck. He was rescued from the water later that morning. A road maintenance inspector also survived by running to safety in the moments before the bridge fell.

On Monday, crews conducted a controlled demolition to break down the largest remaining span of the collapsed bridge, which landed draped across the Dali’s bow, pinning the grounded ship amid the wreckage. The ship is expected to be refloated and guided back to the Port of Baltimore in the coming days.

It arrived in the U.S. from Singapore on March 19, a week before the crash, according to the report. It made stops in Newark, New Jersey, and Norfolk, Virginia, before coming to Baltimore. Investigators said they were not aware of any other power outages occurring in those ports.

They said they’re working with Hyundai, the manufacturer of the ship’s electrical system, to “identify the cause(s) of the breakers unexpectedly opening while approaching the Key Bridge and the subsequent blackouts.”

The board’s preliminary report released Tuesday likely includes a fraction of the findings that will be presented in its final report, which is expected to take more than a year.

The FBI has also launched a criminal investigation into the circumstances leading up to the collapse.

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Collapsed Baltimore bridge span comes down with a boom after crews set off chain of explosives

Crews have conducted a controlled demolition to break down the largest remaining span of the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore. The demolition Monday marks a major step in freeing the grounded Dali container ship (AP video: Nathan Ellgren)

The controlled demolition of the largest remaining steel span of the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore is set for Monday, after being postponed because of weather conditions.

Explosive charges are detonated to bring down sections of the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge resting on the container ship Dali on Monday, May 13, 2024, in Baltimore. (AP Photo/Mark Schiefelbein)

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A boat moves past the bow of the container ship Dali prior to the detonation of explosive charges to bring down sections of the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge resting on the Dali on Monday, May 13, 2024, in Baltimore. (AP Photo/Mark Schiefelbein)

BALTIMORE (AP) — Crews set off a chain of carefully placed explosives Monday to break down the largest remaining span of the collapsed Francis Scott Key Bridge in Baltimore, and with a boom and a splash, the mangled steel trusses came crashing down into the river below.

The explosives flashed orange and let off plumes of black smoke upon detonation. The longest trusses toppled away from the grounded Dali container ship and slid off its bow, sending a wall of water splashing back toward the ship.

It marked a major step in freeing the Dali, which has been stuck among the wreckage since it lost power and crashed into one of the bridge’s support columns shortly after leaving Baltimore on March 26.

The collapse killed six construction workers and halted most maritime traffic through Baltimore’s busy port. The controlled demolition will allow the Dali to be refloated and restore traffic through the port, which will provide relief for thousands of longshoremen, truckers and small business owners who have seen their jobs impacted by the closure.

Officials said the detonation went as planned. They said the next step in the dynamic cleanup process is to assess the few remaining trusses on the Dali’s bow and make sure none of the underwater wreckage is preventing the ship from being refloated and moved.

“It’s a lot like peeling back an onion,” said Lt. Gen. Scott Spellmon of the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.

Officials expect to refloat the ship within the next few days. Then three or four tugboats will guide it to a nearby terminal at the port. It will likely remain there for a several weeks and undergo temporary repairs before being moved to a shipyard for more substantial repairs.

“This was a very big milestone for our progression forward,” Col. Estee Pinchasin, Baltimore District Commander for the Army Corps of Engineers, said in the immediate aftermath of the demolition. She said crews don’t anticipate having to use any more explosives.

The Dali’s crew remained on board the ship during the detonation, and no injuries or problems were reported, said Capt. David O’Connell, commander of the Port of Baltimore.

The crew members haven’t been allowed to leave the grounded vessel since the disaster. Officials said they’ve been busy maintaining the ship and assisting investigators. Of the crew members, 20 are from India and one is Sri Lankan.

Engineers spent weeks preparing to use explosives to break down the span, which was an estimated 500 feet (152 meters) long and weighs up to 600 tons (544 metric tons). The demolition was postponed Sunday because of thunderstorms.

“This is a best practice,” Gov. Wes Moore said at a news conference Monday, noting that there have been no injuries during the cleanup to date. “Safety in this operation is our top priority.”

Fire teams were stationed in the area during the explosion in case of any problematic flying sparks, officials said.

In a videographic released this week, authorities said engineers were using precision cuts to control how the trusses break down. They said the method allows for “surgical precision” and is one of the safest and most efficient ways to remove steel under a high level of tension. Hydraulic grabbers will now lift the broken sections of steel onto barges.

The National Transportation Safety Board and the FBI are conducting investigations into the bridge collapse. Officials have said the safety board investigation will focus on the ship’s electrical system .

Danish shipping giant Maersk had chartered the Dali for a planned trip from Baltimore to Sri Lanka, but the ship didn’t get far. Its crew sent a mayday call saying they had lost power and had no control of the steering system. Minutes later, the ship rammed into the bridge.

State and federal officials have commended the salvage crews and other members of the cleanup operation who helped recover the remains of the six construction workers. The last body was recovered from the underwater wreckage last week. All of the victims were Latino immigrants who came to the U.S. for job opportunities. They were filling potholes on an overnight shift when the bridge was destroyed.

Officials said the operation remains on track to reopen the port’s 50-foot (15-meter) deep draft channel by the end of May. Until then, crews have established a temporary channel that’s slightly shallower. Officials said 365 commercial vessels have passed through the port in recent weeks. The port normally processes more cars and farm equipment than any other in the country.

Former House Speaker Nancy Pelosi, a Baltimore native whose father and brother served as mayor decades ago, compared the Key Bridge disaster to the overnight bombardment of Baltimore’s Fort McHenry, which long ago inspired Francis Scott Key to write “The Star-Spangled Banner” during the War of 1812. She said both are a testament to Maryland’s resilience.

Pelosi, a Democrat who represents California’s 11th district, attended Monday’s news conference with two of her relatives. She praised the collective response to the tragedy as various government agencies have come together, working quickly without sacrificing safety.

“Proof through the night that our flag was still there,” she said. “That’s Baltimore strong.”