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Review: Sapphire Princess South America cruise Dec 1-19, 2023. LA to San Antonio/Santiago

By USC-UVIC , December 28, 2023 in Princess Cruises

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We are back home now, after what is probably the worse cruise I have been on in a long time.

Embarkation- This was a gong show. 2 hr wait for our medallions at San Pedro. The first 45min of this was standing out in the sun waiting to clear security/customs. Then another long line snaking inside the tent terminal to collect our medallions. Princess did not give out pre-boarding assignment times, so guess what? Everyone shows up at the same time. The ship was supposed to depart at 3pm. Pretty ambitious as far as I was concerned, considering they had to disembark the previous load of passengers, clean the cabins, replenish and refuel, etc. We ended up leaving at 7pm, 4 hr late, due to refueling time issues. .... allegedly.

Food - We ate at all the free dining restaurants. Savoy, Vivaldi (Deck 5); Pacific Moon, Santa Fe (Deck 6).   There are no main dining rooms on this ship. The food was in general poor. Almost all the dishes were too salty, especially stews and soups. There is no steak on the fixed dinner menu, like on other cruise lines.. Portions were small. The food in the buffet was better. On some nights, we ended up skipping the dinner and going up to the buffet. Princess is supposed to be renowned for their desserts. This was a big disappointment. Fried fish was greasy, fish and chips was mostly just batter. One night, we were served a roast beef from the carvery that was so tough, I could not "stab it with my steely knife". The fruit selection was the same all the time, consisting of unripen pineapple, then water melon. And when water melon ran out, just apples and oranges. You would think visiting some countries with some of the best tropical fruits in the world, we would see items like papaya and mango on a regular basis. No such luck. You know it's bad when the poolside grill's hamburger was the best food item on most days. Lobster night was decent, with the exception of the small size of the lobster.

Service - was very good. Our cabin steward and every wait staff we encountered were polite and when out of their way to take care of us. Towards the end of the cruise, when the staff was rotating off the ship, the service started getting bad in the buffet. You couldn't find anyone to clear your table.

Entertainment - Princess really needs to up their game here. The house band "The Supersonic" was really bad. I have heard better high school bands. The strings duo and pianist were decent. The stage shows were ok. Guest entertainers were good, including the ABBA lady, the comedian, and guitarist. But overall, below par.

Specialty dining - did not waste my money there.

Fellow passengers - we met some nice people on this cruise. And made some new friends. But I have never seen so many obnoxious passengers on a cruise. They range from predators accosting female serving staff in the buffet dining area, and asking them sexual questions about their breasts.  No kidding. In this day and age, we actually have an old white guy, trying to harrass a young Asian female this way. My wife had to rescue her from this sicko. Then you have the guy that we went on a group tour to the Manta jungle with, grabbing a guide's arm and insisting on the guide guessing his age. Whatever happened to personal space and not laying hands on another person without their permission? Not to mention the host of passengers who routinely put their bare feet and shoes on sofas and chairs.  The list goes on.

Miscellaneous -. Usually, when someone has a birthday at sea, the staff sing Happy Birthday to you when you show up for dinner. Or there might be a birthday card waiting in the cabin. Princess doesn't do anything like this. On other cruise lines, we would here the dining room staff singing Happy Borthday at various tables throughout dinner. Princess must hate birthdays as much as I do.

We got in 2 hours late at Puntarenas, Costa Rica. No explanation as to why. As a result our private tour started 2 hours late and went it was done, there was not enough time left to explore the town.

Diseases - Rampant on this ship, in particular Covid. Lots of people coughing everywhere. You can hear them in the theater and dining areas. I tested positive for Covid when I checked into my hotel in Santiago. Obviously contracted it on the ship. The way the tongs and ladles are shared with everyone helping themselves to the food in the bugget, no doubt contributed to this. They really need to have a staff disburse food.

Also had a bout of serious food poisoning 2 days after our Manta stop. Overheard other passengers talking about their GI issues too.

I can safely say this will be my last Princess cruise. I was told by other passengers, even Princess veterans, that the food was bad in their opinion. They had better on other Princess ships. I am not bothering to find out.

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I'm sorry the poster had such a bad time.    I was on the same trip and had a wonderful time.    I love the Sapphire Princess.    My theory about embarkation is that government inspections were keeping the staff from allowing anyone on the ship since she had just completed a 30 day cruise.    I have cruised many times from San Pedro and never encountered a    situation like this before.    I don't think Princess could do anything about it.

Most of the food was good, but I do agree about the fish and chips.    The portions seemed normal to me.    I only ate in the buffet when the dining room was closed.    I did notice that most of the passengers bypassed the wash station even though a crew member was standing in front of it.    I took the added precaution of using the wipe dispenser after getting my food.    There does seem to be less choice of items since the Covid shutdown.    I solved this in my room by bringing Ghardelli chocolate bar squares and having one each morning.    The afternoon tea on sea days with sandwiches, desserts, and scones was wonderful.

I found the service very good.    I had a great room steward.    The staff was very friendly and kind.

I did not participate in any of the entertainment except the Zumba every sea day.    That was wonderful even though I had to hang on to something since I use a walker.    I still got a lot of action with my feet.    I went to the gym once to use the weights.    I also took advantage of a late cruise spa offer of a massage and facial.    It was excellent and my person did not offer me any products afterwards which I have heard is not usual.

I had a share table for breakfast, lunch, tea, and dinner and met a lot of interesting, well travelled people.    It was nice to put names to faces.    There were 180 solo travellers on board so someone from CC arranged with the International dining room to have a solos lunch every sea day.    We were able to just walk in and back to our tables.

As to diseases, I think Covid is going to be with us so all we can do is mask when we need to.    On two occasions I saw someone who continued to cough so I left the area.    

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Experience rhythms, passions and natural splendor

Indulge in a feast for the senses on an epic South America cruise with Princess®. Feel the rhythm of more than a thousand years of history and culture while savoring an incredible variety of regional cuisine. Marvel at captivating views of the legendary Amalia Glacier, make friends with the famous Falkland Island penguins and sail to the very bottom of the world with our all-new Antarctica cruise itineraries. Spectacular monuments, stunning natural beauty and one-of-a-kind experiences from ship to shore will both inspire and surprise you. Enjoy the adventure and excitement of a South America cruise and come back new®.

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Visit the most isolated continent on Earth on an Antarctica cruise. This rugged landscape is some 1,200 miles long, and reaches beyond the Antarctic Circle. Sail along glacial waters and enjoy views of Elephant Island, Antarctic Sound and Gerlache Strait. From your balcony stateroom, marvel at glaciers and icebergs along the peninsula that have been carved into unique shapes by the wind and waves.

Princess Cruises is a proud member of the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (IAATO), a unique association comprised of members who are committed to the practice of safe, environmentally responsible Antarctic travel.

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Cruise the coastlines of South America exploring its exotic ports of call, visiting such spectacular locales as Uruguay’s charming capital, Montevideo, vibrant Buenos Aires, the remote Falkland Islands, and scenic cruising around Cape Horn.

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South America & Antarctica

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What Is A Princess Cruise to Antarctica Really Like?

I am sharing everything you need to know about what a Princess cruise to Antarctica is really like, including my packing list for the 4 days of scenic cruising in Antarctica.

Last Updated on 01/17/24 by Rose Palmer

“This is unlike any other cruise you have experienced before! It’s an adventure and we are all explorers!” – Captain Todd McBain of the Sapphire Princess.

I wasn’t on board the ship for very long before the captain set the tone for the next 16 days – and he was right, it certainly was an unforgettable adventure!

For a short window during the middle of the Antarctic summer, Princess Cruises scheduled sailings around South America that also included 4 days of scenic cruising in Antarctica. I was on the last of those voyages, starting in Valparaiso, Chile on January 20, and ending in Buenos Aires, Argentina on February 5.

Like many, seeing Antarctica was a big travel bucket list destination for me. After doing a lot of research, I chose this Sapphire Princess itinerary because it provided a great value on a cruise line that I knew I liked.

I would not be landing on the Antarctic continent, but instead, I would have the chance to also see other ports in South America. It seemed like a fair trade off. And the fact that the cruise was over my birthday was ice-ing on the Antarctic cake!

Introduction to Antarctica

It’s important to grasp just how large Antarctica is – twice the size of the continent of Australia. Yet despite its size, the majority of the tours to the white continent really only touch a small portion of the Antarctic peninsula, the finger that pokes out from the main land mass, trying to hold hands with Cape Horn. That is actually not that far off an analogy as the mountains in Antarctica are a continuation of the Andes mountain range that form the spine of South America.

Besides being the easiest part of Antarctica to reach, we were told that the Antarctic peninsula also has the prettiest scenery. It is dotted with islands, bays, fjords, and scenic channels, all waiting to be explored. From what I saw, I think I would agree that it was stunningly beautiful.

Today, we take tourism to Antarctica for granted, forgetting that no human knew of its existence until about 200 years ago. For the first 150 years, Antarctica was visited by sealers, whalers and explorers, and its resources were mostly exploited.

In 1959 the Antarctic treaty was put in place to protect this unique environment. Now, countries from all over the globe have set up research stations and work in peaceful union all across the continent, sharing information and data.

Increased tourism didn’t start till the late 1980’s, and since its discovery only about 1 million people have seen Antarctica – that’s about 0.01% of the total world population. Currently about 50,000 people visit each year through a variety of travel programs.

More than 99% of the continent is permanently covered in ice and though it’s counterintuitive, the Antarctic ice sheet is actually a desert because the annual precipitation is so low. This ice that has formed over millions of years is not static – it flows from the center toward the coastline at a “glacial’ pace which can take as long as 100,000 years to reach the water.

When it finally reaches the ocean the ice will eventually break off, often, into large, flat sheets.

I learned all this Antarctica knowledge from the six destination experts that we had on board during the cruise. Two to three lectures were offered every day, covering a range of topics related to Antarctica and the other locations we were visiting. I liked that I could also watch the lectures on the TV in my room if I missed one of them live.

Safety First

From day one, Captain McBain was very transparent on what we should expect: that mother nature dictated our schedule, flexibility was key, and safety was the operative word.

That this cruise and the team that guided her were special became evident when we were introduced to the leadership staff at a question and answer session in the big theater. This cruise did not have just one captain – it had four!

Besides Captain Todd McBain, there was a second Princess ship captain to assist along with two highly experienced ice pilots that each had over 30 years in the field as captains of ice breakers. (And as I later learned, Captain Todd was also Princess’ only licensed ice pilot).

In addition, for this cruise, the staff on the bridge was quadrupled relative to a warm water (and weather) cruise. All these extra bodies were there to provide more eyes to keep a lookout as we sailed.

It bears mentioning, that we also had two IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators) representatives who boarded in Ushuaia and were there to observe the Princess ship as she cruised through the Antarctic waters.

As the captain stressed many times throughout the trip, his priority was the safety of the ship. Unlike expedition ships, the Sapphire Princess could not go through ice because she did not have an ice protected hull, so the goal was to avoid it. (DO NOT mention the name of the fateful ship that starts with the letter T while on board).

By sailing in the middle of the Antarctic summer during the midnight sun season, it also meant that the bridge had daylight visibility 24 hours a day. So while we were cruising at “night” to get to our next scenic stop, floating ice could always be seen from far off and avoided.

Besides ice, the other common obstacle was the weather, highly variable weather. The Drake passage gets all the attention for horrendous waves, but the reality is that storms and winds continuously travel around the perimeter of the Antarctic continent in a clockwise fashion. In the Drake Passage the weather is amplified because of the bottleneck formed by the landmasses of Cape Horn and the Antarctica Peninsula.

Cruising on the Sapphire Princess to Antarctica

My cruise was on the Sapphire Princess, one of Princess’ smaller ships. The ship was designed for 2600 guests, though our cruise was not quit full with 2100 guests on board.

The Sapphire Princess has all the trademark elements that I enjoy on a Princess cruise: the International Café, Movies Under the Stars, their signature bedding and of course, lots of good food choices, drinks, and entertainment.

But most important for the days of scenic cruising in Antarctica, the Sapphire Princess also had a lot of open deck space which meant there was plenty of room for 2100 guests to stand at a railing and get a good view of the incredible scenery.

I describe my complete Sapphire Princess ship experience in a lot of detail in my post Finding My Blue Heaven on a Princess Cruise – A Detailed Sapphire Princess Review With Photos .

So, what is a Princess cruise to Antarctica really like?

“It’s an adventure!”

This was a statement that our captain made many times throughout the voyage. Yes – like Shackleton and other pioneering visitors to this lonely part of the globe, our cruise had an element of uncertainty that required adaptation.

I learned on this trip that an Antarctic itinerary is the hoped for plan but the weather dictates the reality. As Captain Todd said “it’s what we want to do, not necessarily what we can do”. This is true for any size ship, even the smaller expedition ships with the reinforced hulls.

In Antarctica, more than anywhere else, Mother Nature makes the rules!

South America and Antarctica cruise planned itinerary:

Jan. 20 – Day 1, board at Valparaiso, Chile and set sail by 6 PM

Jan 21 – Day 2, at sea

Jan 22 – Day 3, at sea

Jan 23 – Day 4, at sea

Jan 24 – Day 5, Punta Arenas, Chile

Jan 25 – Day 6, Ushuaia, Argentina

Jan 26 – Day 7, Scenic cruising around cape Horn, at sea

Jan 27 – Day 8, Antarctica, arrive 12 noon – see Elephant Island and Admiralty Bay

Jan 28 – Day 9, Antarctica scenic cruising – see Charlotte Bay and Wilhelmina Bay

Jan 29 – Day 10, Antarctica scenic cruising – see Neumayer channel and Paradise Island

Jan 30 – Day 11, Antarctica scenic cruising till 12 noon – see Deception Island

Jan 31 – Day 12, at sea

Feb 1 – Day 13, Port Stanley, Falkland Islands

Feb 2 – Day 14, at sea

Feb 3 – Day 15. at sea

Feb 4 – Day 16, Montevideo, Uruguay

Feb 5 – Day 17, Dock in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Before we reached Antarctica, Captain Todd gave a navigational presentation explaining what his scenic cruising goal was for our 4 days in the Antarctic Peninsula for our specific cruise. We were also given a map that showed where and when we would be each day.

Once again though, the captain was forthright and made it very clear that this was his wished for plan, but that the reality could be different, and it all depended on the weather and the sea conditions.

South America and Antarctica cruise actual itinerary:

Day 0 – jan 19.

I landed in Santiago, Chile in the early morning and took an airport taxi to my hotel in Valparaiso where we were scheduled to board the ship. It was about a 90 minute drive and cost about $140 which I paid for in cash with US dollars once I reached my destination.

Travel tip: Make sure to use one of the Official Airport Taxis that are outside the terminal, waiting at the curb. An attendant that is wearing an Aeropuerto Taxi Oficial jacket, shirt, or tag and who speaks good English will help you. Agree on the cost ahead of time. Note that US dollars in cash were accepted as were credit cards. Do not accept offers for a taxi ride from any one else that approaches you.

In Valparaiso I stayed at AYCA La Flora Boutique Hotel , a very well rated, lovely, little B&B in the heart of the old town. Owners Anne and Alex made me feel very welcome and clearly went out of their way to provide a personalized experience to all of their guests.

The UNESCO listed old town in Valparaiso is a fun mix of colorful houses, lots of unique street art and interesting graffiti. I spent the afternoon wandering this neighborhood on my own (I felt quite safe doing that), followed by an exceptional dinner at the nearby Restaurant La Concepcion . If you are at all into foodie and wine experiences, I highly recommend eating there.

Day 1 – Jan. 20

Temp. 64 F.

Planned: board at Valparaiso, Chile and set sail by 6 PM.

Unusually high winds in the Valparaiso harbor prevented the returning Sapphire Princess from docking until 1 PM. Continued high winds made the disembarkation and the embarkation process, along with loading and unloading the ship, more difficult than usual. As a result, I was not able to board the ship until the evening.

I was scheduled to board at 11 AM, but was rescheduled for 7:30 PM instead. The kind hosts at the hotel let me hang out in their comfortable lounge area until boarding which was much more pleasant than waiting in the terminal. The hotel also set me up with a taxi for the short drive to the terminal.

Note that the cruise terminal in Valparaiso is not located at the pier where the ship is docked (the pier and harbor are primarily designed for cargo ships). After going through the Princess check in process at the cruise terminal building, a shuttle bus took us to the ship’s boarding area.

Also note that Princess held on to my passport once I checked in, and then returned it toward the end of the cruise.

In the middle of the night the ship finally set sail, but only to the nearby port of San Antonio, Chile. I understand that my boarding experience in Valparaiso was quite an exception and that this type of weather event was very unusual.

Day 2 – Jan. 21

Planned: at sea.

Due to the previous day’s delay and challenging weather conditions, the Sapphire Princess needed this day to refuel and stock up the ship. We had a “sea day” while docked in San Antonio and I used it to familiarize myself with the ship’s amenities and to enjoy the warm weather on deck while I still could.

At 6 PM we finally set sail for points south.

Day 3 and 4 – Jan. 22 and Jan. 23

Temp. 59 F.

At sea as planned.

Temperatures were getting noticeably cooler as we cruised further south. Day 4 was also the first formal night.

Day 5 – Jan. 24

Temp. 51 F; got colder as the day progressed and we continued further south.

Planned: day at Punta Arenas from 7 AM to 7 PM.

Because of the delay with embarkation and setting out from Valparaiso, the captain had announced on day 1 that we would be skipping the planned stop in Punta Arenas. We also sped up so that we could reach Ushuaia early in the morning in order to avoid the high winds that were predicted for the afternoon on the day of our arrival in Ushuaia.

Instead, Captain Todd provided a nice surprise as we sailed into the Straits of Magellan to avoid rough weather in the open ocean. As a result, we had a very pleasant day of scenic cruising through Chile’s Patagonia region with views of Tierra Del Fuego.

The scenery was breathtaking, with snow capped peaks surrounding us on both side. Occasionally we had a glimpse of a hanging glacier or one that was marching its way into the ocean. This short introduction to Patagonia convinced me that I need to come back and spend a lot more time exploring this gorgeous scenery.

Day 6 – Jan. 25

Temp. 41 F, cloudy and raining in the afternoon.

Planned: afternoon and evening in Ushuaia, 12 PM to 8 PM.

We arrived in Ushuaia around 7 AM and stayed till 8 PM which gave us a much longer day in port than originally scheduled.

As soon as I boarded, I booked the Princess offered “ Penguin Rookery Navigation” excursion. Since we arrived in Ushuaia early, this worked out well because Princess adjusted the start time of the excursion accordingly.

The tour boat was docked at the same pier as our ship which made it very convenient. We cruised east along the Beagle Channel for about 5 hours, doing photo stops at some of the rock outcroppings that were home to imperial cormorants and sea lions. We also stopped at the popular Beagle Channel light house.

The ultimate goal was Isla Martillo, or Hammer Island, which was home to both Magellanic and Gentoo penguin colonies. Once we reached the island, the boat pulled up very close to shore and we got very good close up views of the many, many penguins that had made this broad beach their home.

We watched the penguins for almost an hour and then headed back to town. Since it was raining and cold, I chose to go back on board early for a hot cup of tea and some scones.

Day 7 – Jan. 26

Temp. 39 F.

Planned: scenic cruising around Cape Horn.

The scenic cruising around Cape Horn was also cancelled due to high winds. Because of the weather, a local pilot could not get on and off the ship safely and the ship was not allowed to do this sailing without the experience of the local pilot on board.

We spent the day at sea crossing the famous (or infamous) Drake Passage. At first the waves were not too bad, about 2-3 feet, but by the end of the day, the waves reached about 10 feet in height.

It’s a good thing I am not bothered by sea sickness because this was the night I was schedule to partake in the Chef’s Table dinner which was fantastic.

If you’ve never tried a Chef’s Table event, I highly recommend it. You need to put your name on the reservation list at guest services as soon as you board the ship. The dinner is served to only 10-12 guests a few times throughout the cruise. They will call you to let you know if you got one of the spots and on which night.

Day 8 – Jan. 27

Temp. 32 F, wind 15 mph, humidity 95%; overcast.

Planned: Antarctica scenic cruising – arrive 12 noon – see Elephant Island and Admiralty Bay.

Since we were not able to cruise around Cape Horn, our ship arrived at Elephant Island at about 7 AM. I was very excited to look out my window and get my first view of Antarctica!

Unfortunately, mother nature didn’t cooperate and only gave us foggy views. The captain kept us in the area for about two hours in case the weather got better, but when it became obvious that there would be no change, we moved on.

The Sapphire Princess continued cruising through Bransfield Strait to King George Island and into Admiralty Bay. King George Island has lots of research stations and penguins. Three species of penguins nest here-Chinstrap, Adelie, and Gentoo which you might be able to see with really strong binoculars. The bay is also home to three fjords and 7 named glaciers.

We reached Admiralty Bay around 5 PM. The weather was somewhat better with high clouds that allowed us to see the glaciers and the ice fields. The bay was quite calm as we cruised about 2 hours, taking in the spectacular views.

From the deck of the ship, it was quite hard to get a sense of how large the peaks and glaciers were. It was only when I saw a boat or a research station that the scale of the scenery became evident.

Day 9 – Jan. 28

Temp. 34 F wind 7.5 mph, humidity 92 %, a little light snow in the morning; overcast all day with high clouds; sun out all day.

Planned – Antarctica scenic cruising – Leave Bransfield Strait and plan to arrive in Charlotte Bay around 7 AM, crossing Gerlach Strait where we will see great scenery for around 1 to 1.5 hours beforehand. Then go to Wilhelmina Bay and try for Plata Passage.

What a wonderful day of scenic cruising this day was! Our actual itinerary was a little different than what the Captain originally wanted to do, but it was a spectacular day nonetheless.

Overnight, the Sapphire Princess had navigated further south along the Bransfield Strait and then into the Gerlach Strait. We did not go into Charlotte Bay, but instead we cruised around the bend into Wilhelmina Bay where we arrived at 8:30 AM.

For the next 4 hours, our ship glided slowly through the calm waters of the bay, This bay is also nick named Whale-helmina Bay and it certainly lived up to its reputation. We saw quite a few whales as we cruised, and even came upon a pair just hanging out near the surface, sleeping.

To say that the views were stunning is an understatement, and while I took a lot of photos, they don’t do it justice. This was the Antarctica I had come to see, and I was not disappointed.

Because the water was so calm, the Captain also took us into the Plata Passage, which was only the second time he was ever able to do this.

At 12:30 we headed to our next destination, Neumayer Channel. We were expecting bad weather in this part of Antarctica the next day, so the Captain was taking advantage of the good conditions and showing us as much of the best scenery as possible.

Day 10 -Jan. 29

Temp. 32 F, winds 35 mph, overcast, some light snow through the day.

Planned: Antarctica scenic cruising – go into Gerlache Strait where we may also see whales; then possibly go to Paradise Harbor. Later go through the Neumayer Channel where we will try to see Port Lockroy. Finally, continue through Bismarck Strait around Anverse Island.

A very bad storm in the Drake Passage was spilling over into our area and produced high winds and high waves. This meant that it was not safe for our ship to do any kind of scenic cruising near floating ice.

Instead, we had a bumpy day at sea as we cruised north along the wide Bransfield Strait. This was the roughest experience I have had on a big ship, and while it did not bother me, the captain did recommend that anyone prone to sea sickness should take their medication or remain in bed in their cabins.

Since it was cold, windy, and raining, the outside spaces were not usable, so all the indoor public spaces were very busy. The crew did a nice job planning other distractions, including three additional enrichment lectures.

On this cold and wet day, I took some time to enjoy the nice, warm  thermal suites in the spa which were actually not busy at all.  The thermal beds and steam rooms are located within the spa space and there is no additional fee to use them.

Day 11 – Jan. 30

Temp.  34 F winds, 23 mph, partly sunny in the morning; got lots windier as we went into the opean ocean; partly sunny most of the day.

Planned: Antarctica scenic cruising – arrive at Deception Island which is reached through a channel named Neptune’s Bellows. This is an active volcano and has the world’s largest colony of chinstrap penguins. In the afternoon start heading toward the Falkland Islands.

The weather did not cooperate for us to go to Deception Island, so we went to Elephant Island instead. The island is best known as the refuge for Ernest Shackleton and his crew after their ship the Endurance was crushed in the pack ice.

We reached Elephant Island around 7 in the morning and slowly cruised around the island until 9:30.  The scenery on the island was spectacular. There was one mountain after another with glaciers in between.

We then started crossing the Drake Passage toward the Falkland Islands. As we progressed through the channel the sea became rougher and we had 15 foot waves which made the boat quite rocky. It also made the second formal night a little harder to navigate while wearing heels.

Day 12 – Jan. 31

Temp. 48 F, winds 20 mph.

Today was a day at sea, as planned.

The Drake Passage was not too bad today – it was more of a Drake Lake than a Drake Shake. The day ended with a beautiful sunset over the Drake Lake, which was in itself an unusual event.

Day 13 – Feb. 1

Temp. 60 F, beautiful sunny day but got windy in the afternoon and a little cloudy.

Planned: Port Stanley, Falkland Islands from 8 AM to to 6 PM.

The Sapphire Princess reached Port Stanley early in the morning as planned. This was a tender port and I picked up my ticket for the tender at 8:15. However, I did not actually get on the tender till almost 10. The wind kicked up and made it slow going for the tenders to get to shore.

The Falkland Islands are known for their penguin population. In fact, during the breeding season I was told there are 300 penguins for each person on the island.

Princess had a number of excursions to see the various penguin colonies. There are also many penguin tour options that you can book on your own. However, I booked my cruise late, and all the organized tours were fully booked.

As it turned out, I did not need a tour. I had a wonderful day seeing three different types of penguins all on my own!

Port Stanley has a bus that transfers you in 20 minutes from the port to Gypsy Cove and then back. At Gypsy cove I saw three different species of penguins: Magellanic, King, and Gentoos.

The Magellanic penguins had made their nests in the ground on the hillside above the sandy cove. While mom and dad were out fishing, the juveniles were hanging out near their nests, just as curious about us as we were about them.

On the other side of the sandy cove I found a small group of juvenile King penguins, regally standing there, being admired by the tourists as they plucked the molting feathers off their bodies.

A few hundred feet away, there was a rookery of juvenile Gentoo penguins. Though most of these little guys and gals were sleeping lazily in the sand while the parents were away fishing, some were interacting with each other, totally oblivious to our presence.

I easily spent three hours here, happily observing all the penguin shenanigans on the warm and sunny beach. The Gentoos and their antics were especially fun to watch. But, once the wind started kicking up, I headed back to the pier (via the bus).

As the afternoon progressed, it got quite windy and a little more overcast. The winds were giving the tender boats a hard time as they slowly motored their way back to the Sapphire Princess. There was a line waiting to get onto the tender boats, but eventually, we all got on board and the ship was able to sail on, though a little later than originally scheduled.

Day 14 – Feb. 2

Temp. 62 F; sunny but windy.

Day at sea as planned.

This day was my birthday and I spent it by getting pampered like a princess. I slept in and then had a delicious room service brunch.

I followed this up with an afternoon at the spa, getting a facial, using the thermal beds and sauna and also the hot tub. I then enjoyed an afternoon tea snack with a view before getting dressed up for formal night.

This was the third formal night and the evening festivities started with the Captain’s Circle cocktail party. I followed this with a delicious dinner at Sabatini’s where the staff brought me a special cake while singing (embarrassingly) happy birthday very loudly and exuberantly.

The night ended with a glorious sunset, a lively show in the theater, and a final cocktail with music in the Piazza.

I don’t think I’ve ever had a better birthday! There is nothing better than living like a princess on a Princess ship!

Day 15 – Feb. 3

Temp. 66 F.

Another relaxing day at sea as planned, taking advantage of the ship’s facilities; especially Movies Under the Stars now that it was warmer again.

Day 16 – Feb. 4

Planned: Montevideo, Uruguay from 8 AM to 5 PM.

We docked as scheduled at the port in Montevideo. From the pier it was an easy 10 minute walk to the pedestrian friendly area near the port with lots of meat serving BBQ restaurants in the Puerto Market.

I am always on the lookout for excursions that I could not easily set up on my own and I think I found it in Montevideo. I signed up for the Princess “Montevideo and Carnival Excursion” which drove us to see the main sights in Montevideo and then ended at the Carnival Museum.

After learning a little about the history of the costumes on display in the museum, we were treated to a unique Murga performance just for our group. Murga is a type of musical theater that is special to Uruguay, especially Montevideo, and is only performed during Carnival season from late January to early March. Our show was on the stage inside the museum which was made to look like one of the local neighborhood stages.

The troop was made up of 13 vocalists, 3 percussionists and a leader. Performances are usually on community stages which are called tablados.  The performers were dressed up in wild, colorful costumes and their faces were also elaborately painted.

For about 30 minutes we were treated to this typically local musical style which was very different from anything I had ever heard before. After the performers finished their show, they invited us all to also get dressed up and take part in the singing and dancing which was a lot of fun.

The nice thing was that the Carnival Museum was very close to the pier where we were docked, so it was easy to walk back to the ship after I explored the area a little more.

Day 17 – Feb. 5

In the early morning I disembarked in Buenos Aires, Argentina.

My cruise was over, but my holiday was not. I was flying on to spend a few days in the Iguazu area to see the famous waterfalls.

Best spots for Antarctica photography on the Sapphire Princess

One of the things I really liked about the Sapphire Princess was how much outdoor deck space there was for all the guests to use during the Antarctica scenic cruising days. The Promenade level and the Sun level had outdoor deck spaces that wrapped around almost the entire ship.

As I wandered about taking photos, I found the following locations to be some of the best for photography:

• Front of Deck 8 which is the upper level of the Promenade Deck.  This area puts you closer to water level and more eye to eye with the icebergs. It is also covered which makes it a good spot if it is raining or snowing. However, since it is at the front of the ship it can also be more windy and more bouncy.

• On the front of Deck 15 there is an observation area on top of the bridge that is accessed by a few stairs. This gives you full, unimpeded views looking forward and at a higher level, so you will be looking down at the ice and any wildlife. Because this space is completely open it is also windier and will feel colder.

• My favorite spot was the back on Deck 16 in the area called The Oasis. This space was more protected, so it wasn’t as windy. It was also usually less crowded and it also provided easy access to both the port and starboard sides so I could easily walk from one side to another for photos.

• The middle of deck 15 also had a lot of open railing space but it tended to be busier.

• For the best indoor views, Skywalkers Lounge on deck 17 aft provided the best option.

To help you get your best Antarctica photos, I have put together a list of 19 Antarctica Photography Tips for All Skill Levels .

Antarctica packing list

I am sharing my list of what I packed specifically for the Antarctica portion of the trip. Packing for this cruise was somewhat more challenging than usual since I needed clothes that spanned a temperature range of 32 F to 90 F.

I needed warm weather clothing for a tropical climate, comfy clothes for sea days on the ship, nicer clothes for dinners, a formal outfit, and all the extra cold weather clothes for Antarctica. And it had to all fit into one 26 inch checked bag (and a small carry on for miscellaneous items).  Yes – I managed it.

My key to packing for the cold weather was merino wool which kept me dry and warm and did not take up a lot of space.

1 pair merino wool long underwear 

1 pair fleece lined hiking pants 

2 long sleeve merino zip up turtlenecks

1 fleece pullover

1 pair merino wool glove liners

1 pair convertible gloves

1 wool hat 

1 wool neck gaiter

4 pair wool hiking socks – Kirkland brand from Costco

1 pair fleece lined Minnetonka shoes

1 pair warm winter boots – Lands End

1 mid length puffy coat with a hood – Lands End

I was fortunate in that I already had all these items from previous cold weather trips to Alaska and Wyoming. I ended up not wearing the boots and only needing the fleece Minnetonka shoes which kept my feet very warm while I was outside on deck all day.

What I loved about this Princess Antarctica cruise

• The scenery in Antarctica was incredibly beautiful.
• I couldn’t get enough of the penguins on the Falkland Islands.
• I really appreciated the captain’s full transparency about what we were doing and why. His daily briefings were more detailed than those on any other ship I have been on.
• The quantity and variety of enrichment programs.
• Plenty of open deck space for everyone that wanted to be outside. It never felt crowded.
• The Chef’s Table dinner was fantastic.
• Compared to expeditions cruises, this one was much easier on the travel budget.

I booked this cruise expecting to cross Antarctica from my bucket list. Instead, it only whetted my appetite and made me want to see more. I think there will be at least one more trip to the white continent for me in the future.

In the meantime, I too am now an Antarctic ambassador.

If you are interested in a Princess Antarctica and South America cruise similar to the one I did on the Sapphire Princess, please visit the Princess cruises website .

Please note that I received a media upgrade from Princess cruises. All Content is my own.

Other Princess cruising stories you may like:

My favorite photos from my Antarctica cruise: Penguins, and Ice, and So Much More – My Favorite Antarctica Cruise Photos

How to see the penguins on the Falkland Islands: An Unforgettable Day With the Falkland Island Penguins

My favorite Norway cruise photos : Beautiful Storybook Norway Photos to Inspire Your Next Trip

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Princess Cruises welcomes its biggest ship ever with help from a star

It took a star to welcome the sun.

The Sun Princess , that is.

Princess Cruises on Tuesday officially hailed the arrival of its newest megavessel — at 177,882 tons, its biggest ever —with the help of "Ted Lasso" star Hannah Waddingham.

The Emmy Award-winning actress and singer presided over a star-studded 19-minute christening ceremony in the ship's Princess Arena theater that included a traditional bottle breaking, with a twist.

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Serving as the ship's godmother, Waddingham placed a triangular "sun ray" representing Sun Princess into a sun sculpture on stage to trigger the smashing of a huge bottle of Veuve Cliquot Champagne — a nebuchadnezzar that holds the equivalent of 20 traditional bottles — against the ship's hull.

"As much as theater ripples through my bloodstream, I have the strongest history of maritime in my family," a clearly proud Waddingham said moments before triggering the bottle smash.

She noted that her still-living, 107-year-old grandfather served on convoy ships crossing the Atlantic during World War II. She also grew up boating.

"It's in my blood and in my bones," she added.

Built at the giant Fincantieri shipyard in Monfalcone, Italy, Sun Princess is the most notable new Princess ship to debut in more than a decade. Capable of holding up to 5,189 passengers (a record for a Princess ship), it's not only significantly bigger than previous Princess ships but packed with more onboard venues.

The naming celebration came two months after Sun Princess began sailing for the first time with paying passengers, a debut that was unexpectedly delayed by 20 days due to construction issues.

"Sun Princess is incredible. It's the largest, most luxurious love boat ever," John Padgett, Princess president, said at the event, harking back to the line's long-standing tie to the hit television show "The Love Boat" that ran in the late 1970s and early 1980s.

Three stars from the show — Ted Lange, Bernie Kopell and Jill Whelan, who played bartender Isaac Washington, ship's doctor Adam Bricker and captain's daughter Vicki Stubing, respectively — were in attendance at the event.

The "Love Boat" stars were seated just a couple rows behind Carnival Corporation chairman Micky Arison and CEO Josh Weinstein.

Carnival Corporation is the parent company of Princess Cruises.

Makoto Okuwa, a James Beard Foundation honoree who designed a sushi eatery for Sun Princess, and Dario Cecchini, a celebrity Italian butcher who created a meat-focused restaurant for the ship, were also in attendance. So was the Brazilian artist Romero Britto, who sat to the right of Arison. Britto's colorful, upbeat art is the theme for the ship's high-end restaurant, Love by Britto.

Other celebrities at the event included model and television personality Tyra Banks, wildlife show host Jeff Corwin, fashion designer and television host Randy Fenoli and mixologist Rob Floyd. British singer-songwriter Natasha Bedingfield performed her smash hit "Pocketful of Sunshine" among other hit songs on the top deck of the ship after the ceremony.

The biggest Princess ship ever

Under development for more than six years, Sun Princess is the first of the new Sphere Class of Princess vessels. The ships have been designed to be significantly bigger than previous Princess vessels and offer several new-for-the-line features.

First look: Inside Sun Princess, the giant new ship from Princess Cruises

Sun Princess is the first Princess ship with suites that come with exclusive access to a private restaurant, lounge and sun deck — part of an effort to draw more upscale customers to the brand.

Additionally, Sun Princess offers an innovative new type of "cabana cabin" on the ship's extra-wide 10th deck that features exclusive access to a private deck area. The top deck of the ship also received some unusual-for-Princess sizzle. Passengers will find a glass-dome-topped pool area that transforms into a nightspot after the sun goes down.

Other differences between Sun Princess and earlier Princess ships include the lack of a buffet restaurant on its main pool deck. But don't worry, buffet lovers: There still is a buffetlike venue on the ship. Called The Eatery, it's eight decks below the pool deck, closer to the ship's central piazza and just off its outside promenade.

The ship's main theater, the Princess Arena, also has a new look. Its new-for-Princess, in-the-round shape can be converted into a more traditional proscenium-type theater or a keyhole-type theater to allow for different types of productions.

Among other standout venues, Sun Princess features a secret hideaway for magical performances designed in partnership with the Magic Castle performance venue in Los Angeles.

Related: My strange night out at Princess's new magic-infused night spot

Princess also has revamped its main dining room program with the debut of Sun Princess. It now offers three distinct options for cruisers in its main dining rooms, ranging from a traditional fixed seating experience to a casual, come-when-you-want option that includes quick-served meals and even breakfast for dinner .

The arrival of Sun Princess marks the first time Princess has launched a new class of ship in nearly 11 years. With its debut, Princess now has 16 vessels in its fleet that collectively have room for about 50,000 passengers. That makes Princess the world's fifth-biggest cruise line, behind Royal Caribbean , Carnival Cruise Line , MSC Cruises and Norwegian Cruise Line .

Related: The 4 types of Princess ships, explained

Sun Princess is initially sailing in Europe through the fall. It'll then reposition to Fort Lauderdale, Florida, for voyages to the Caribbean. Fares start at $577 per person, not including taxes and fees, for a seven-night Caribbean sailing.

A second ship in the new Sphere Class series, to be called Star Princess, is on order from the Fincantieri shipyard for delivery in 2025. Its first voyage is scheduled for Aug. 4, 2025, and will take place in the Mediterranean.

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Bigger ship, better views: 3 takeaways from Princess Cruises' newest vessel

I was rushing to make my dinner reservation on Princess Cruises’ new ship. But when I arrived at the restaurant, the view made me stop.

From the windows at the sushi eatery Makoto Ocean – part of a sphere-shaped structure near the middle of the vessel – I saw the sun sinking below the horizon, a reddish-orange dot on the Mediterranean Sea. The Sun Princess facilitates scenes like that by design.

“We wanted to make sure that within how we designed the (venues) and placed the furniture, we gave maximum opportunity for our guests to be able to celebrate those outward views,” Denise Saviss, Princess’ vice president of entertainment experience, told USA TODAY. “It is really, really unique to have so much glass on the ship.”

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That was one of several striking features during a recent sailing (the ship is now cruising the Mediterranean before it moves to the Caribbean in October). Here are three takeaways from the first in the line’s aptly named Sphere Class.

1. The design showcases views at sea and in port

Makoto isn’t the only venue that offers that kind of view.

Other spaces inside the Sphere – which also houses lobby-slash-entertainment venue The Piazza – feature similarly sweeping vistas across decks 7, 8 and 9. I watched the light sparkle on the water while I sipped coffee one morning at International Café, and patrons dining at Alfredo’s Pizzeria can take in the scenery during their meal from many seats.

That’s also true elsewhere on the ship. At Horizons Dining Room, floor-to-ceiling windows face the ship’s wake. At the other end of the vessel, the Dome, a geodesic structure that Princess has said was inspired by the hills of Santorini, is like a massive solarium.

The space – which will also host shows including acrobatics – has multiple tiers of loungers, an indoor-outdoor pool and the Cascade Bar (which comes in handy for cooling off, as it felt a bit muggy in the Dome at one point on a sunny sea day).

The overall effect helped to bring the outside in.

2. The ship is bigger but still intimate

Sun Princess is the largest ship in the Princess fleet, and the 21-deck vessel can accommodate 4,300 guests. But that doesn’t mean everything is huge.

Given the scale of the offerings, a number of spaces on board feel notably intimate. One night, I walked to Good Spirits at Sea, a cocktail bar crafted in partnership with mixologist Rob Floyd that also hosts classes, and thought I was lost before stumbling upon it tucked around a corner on Deck 7. Inside, the 40-person venue offered a laid-back alternative to other more boisterous nightlife options.

On Deck 9, the ship’s buffet-like venue, The Eatery, gives way to narrower hallways toward the aft with backlit wood paneling and benches. At the end, they open back up to reveal specialty restaurants The Catch by Rudi and The Butcher’s Block by Dario (from Princess’ head of culinary arts, Rudi Sodamin, and in partnership with famed butcher Dario Cecchini, respectively).

Even the multi-configuration Princess Arena felt cozier than its near-1,000-guest capacity would suggest. I sat in the second-to-last row of my section for a performance by the vocal group ODY·C and was still close enough to see clearly.

3. The line leans into family-friendly activities

Part of Sun Princess’ expanded footprint has been used to broaden the line’s family offerings.

Park19, a new space on the ship’s top decks, features a variety of activities in an open-air setting. Saviss said the line worked to balance the interests of core customers and a growing family market “and make sure we're prioritizing spaces that everybody can enjoy.”

“There are some attractions that I think naturally, at first blush, people would say, ‘Oh, it's just for kids,’ but actually, the space is really comprehensive,” she said. “Our attractions are available for many different levels of ability and mobility.”

Those include Coastal Climb, an obstacle course that culminates in 360-degree views from The Lookout observation deck (the highest point accessible to guests on the ship, also reachable via elevator) and The Net ropes course.

On Sea Breeze, billed as the first Rollglider on a cruise ship, passengers will glide along the outer edges of the ship on an electric track (the ride will also be ADA-accessible, though Saviss said some mobility is required for maneuvering into the seat).

It’s as close as the ship gets to an amusement park (Princess’ version). “We're not running the rat race, if you will, of like, who can do it bigger, better,” Saviss said. “If you want to just have a really incredible bird's-eye view of Sun Princess, and in and around where the ship is sailing, you can do that. But there is an option to push a little lever while you're riding it and dial up the speed a bit faster, and then it does become a bit more thrilling.”

The ride was not yet available when I was on board, as the line moved through a testing, certification and training process, but is expected to open on April 27. Sun Princess’ original launch was delayed with the cruise line citing “additional technical work” needed at the shipyard, which pushed back the opening of some onboard amenities.

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There is also a hammock area to chill when guests need a break, a recreational court that can host activities from pingpong to morning meditation, a jogging track and more. Elsewhere on board, guests will find the Firefly Park kids club and hangout spaces Neon Grove and The Underground for tweens and teens, respectively.

The reporter on this story received access to this sailing from Princess Cruises. USA TODAY maintains editorial control of content.  

Nathan Diller is a consumer travel reporter for USA TODAY based in Nashville. You can reach him at [email protected].

This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: Bigger ship, better views: 3 takeaways from Princess Cruises' newest vessel