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2nd Gen , 3rd Gen , Lift Kits , Off-Road , Overland , Suspension

8 best long travel kits for the tacoma.

When it comes to long travel (LT) suspension on the Toyota Tacoma, you have many options to choose from. You don’t have as many compared to mid-travel lift kits and leveling kits , however, there is an LT kit out there for everyone’s needs.

Before we get into the specifics of a long-travel suspension and the offerings on the market, it’s important to understand what long travel is and why you might want to add this type of suspension to your Toyota Tacoma. Long travel isn’t for everyone as it’s rather expensive depending on the parts you’re running and designed for a very specific style of off-roading.

Long travel kits are designed for go-fast and rock crawler builds looking for more articulation (wheel travel) from their suspension. We will touch on the differences later but first, let’s learn the terminology.

Table Of Contents

• LCAs and UCAs: The foundation of what’s considered “long travel” starts with your A-arms; LCAs (lower control arms) and UCAs (upper control arms). Your lower and upper control arms push the wheels farther away from the vehicle’s center frame and are measured in inches; 1″, 2″, 3″, and beyond. Aftermarket A-arms can be boxed or tubular, are made of Chromoly, aluminum, and/or steel depending on the brand. Lower control arms often add internal gussets for increased strength and tube style upper control arms add external gussets for added strength. Long travel a-arms are typically configured with heim joint or bushing pivots at the frame/shock bucket and uniball joints or ball joints at the spindle knuckle pivot however some companies offer uniball joints for both.
• Coilovers: The primary shock used for LT starts around an 8″ stroke and at least a 2″ body, however, most are 2.5″ body shocks. If you’re not running secondary bypass shocks, you want coilovers that offer remote reservoirs and compression/rebound adjusters.
• Secondary Bypass Shocks: Bypass shocks are designed to handle compression and rebound damping. With secondary bypass shocks, you don’t need compression and rebound adjusters on your primary coilover, but you can run them. Secondary shocks usually range from 2.0″ to 3.0″ wide.
• Shock Hoops: Tubular hoops with shock mount tabs welded to the frame are designed to hold the secondary bypass shock to the lower control arm.
• Shock Stroke: The measurement of how far the shock shaft enters the shock body between full extension (droop) and full compression (bump). Long travel shocks usually range in lengths of 12″ – 18″ for the rear and 8″ – 10″ for the front.
• Remote Reservoirs: Remote reservoirs help to dissipate oil heat in the shock body when the suspension is cycling. Remote reservoirs can contain a larger volume of oil which helps prevent the shock from overheating and allowing for more consistent damping.
• Bump Travel: When the shock compresses in an upward motion. Also known as up-travel.
• Droop Travel: When the shock rebounds in a downward motion. Also known as down-travel.
• CV Axles: Extended and typically stronger CV (Constant Velocity) axles push the knuckles farther from the center frame and oftentimes offer more articulation than factory CV axles.
• Brake Lines: Extended soft brake lines help to prevent snapping brake lines when the suspension cycles at full droop.
• Tie Rods: Extended and stronger steering rods connect your steering rack to your knuckles.
• Rod-Ends: High articulation heim joints that connect steering knuckles to the tie rod and the tie rod to the steering rack.
• Steering Clevis Kits: The steering rack clevis/bolt assembly threads into the steering rack which connects to a heim join that’s connected to the inner tie rod.
• Bump Stops: Either extended height rubber bump stops or welded-on brackets for hydraulic bump stops (usually hydraulic).
• Bump Stop Cans: Metal cans welded to the frame that hold hydraulic bump stops in place.
• Fiberglass Fenders: Extended height and width fenders allow tires more up travel clearance.
• Limit straps: Straps that prevent the suspension from overextension at full droop.
• Bed Cage: Bolt-on or welded cage in the bed of a truck designed to be mount points for rear 14″ – 16″ shocks. Bed cages hold spare tires, jacks, and other Prerunner accessories among other benefits.
• Spring Under Axle (SUA): Leaf springs are set on perches underneath the axle. Usually provides more bump travel over SOA.
• Spring Over Axle (SOA): Leaf springs are set on perches on top of the axle. Usually provides more ground clearance over SUA.

Define “Travel”

Define Travel

Travel is determined by the amount (in inches) of the distance between full droop (down-travel) to full bump compression (up-travel). Usable wheel travel is when all your suspension components work together creating a full range of motion. You can measure wheel travel by removing your shocks and cycling the suspension from full droop to full bump. Factory travel differs on many makes and models, however, 8″ is average for the Tacoma. Companies that offer long travel for the Tacoma quote anywhere from 10-14″ of usable wheel travel.

Shock Travel Vs. Shock Stroke?

Oftentimes travel is confused with the shock stroke measurement. Shock stroke is a measurement of how far the shock shaft enters the shock body between full extension and full compression.

Factory Travel Vs. Mid Travel

Pictured: ARB BP-51 Mid Travel Coilovers

Factory or “stock” travel is the amount of wheel travel you have from the factory, usually around 8″ for the Toyota Tacoma.

What Is Mid-Travel?

Mid-travel is a term used to describe a suspension that increases factory travel with extended-height coilovers that feature taller and wider shock bodies that are threaded/ adjustable for ride height. These kits are often paired with aftermarket UCAs (upper control arms) with built-in positive caster to reflect/correct the alignment change after lifting the Tacoma.

Sometimes mid-travel suspension kits are often mistaken with other coilover set-ups as the terms are intertwined. For example, just because a coilover is adjustable doesn’t mean it’s mid-travel. The Bilstein 5100 is a perfect example – it’s adjustable but definitely not considered mid-travel. The Bilstein 5100 kit and similar lift/leveling kits/shocks are simply referred to as such; lifts and leveling kits. I would refer to this style of lift as an “entry-level” lift kit and sometimes these upgrades don’t lift your Tacoma at all, guys just upgrade shocks for factory ride height.

Where entry-level lift kits are physically lifting your truck and mildly increasing performance (0″-1″ added wheel travel), mid-travel suspensions are not only lifting but providing much more control and drastically increasing performance (1″-2″+ in added wheel travel). You can compare these to long travel lift kits that usually result in 3″-5″+ in added wheel travel.

Good examples of entry-level suspension kits would be the OME Nitrochargers , Eibach Pro-Truck Lift kit , and again the Bilstein 5100 kit linked above. Good examples of mid-travel setups would be the OME BP-51s and kits like the Fox DSCs, Kings, Icon extended travel stage 2 kit, Bilstein 8112s, and many others.

With mid-travel, you’re changing the factory suspension greatly but there’s still room for more travel.

If you want to push your Tacoma faster and harder than mid-travel allows, a long-travel suspension is likely the next step.

What is Long-Travel?

What Is Long Travel? 

Long travel suspension is when you increase the length and/or height, and often the strength of your factory suspension components beyond the limits of your factory suspension geometry. Compared to mid-travel, long-travel suspensions provide even more wheel travel.

Where mid-travel kits feature extended-length coilovers and aftermarket UCAs to correct caster, long travel kits contain many more parts. In a typical LT kit, you see extended-length UCAs, extended-length LCAs, larger coilovers (typically an 8″ stroke to start), secondary bypass shocks, extended-length CV axles, extended brake lines, extended tie rods with strengthened rod ends, extended (both height and width) fenders, extended bump stops to prevent bottom out, limit straps to prevent top out, and more.

See how many times I listed “extended”? With long travel, everything is longer/wider, and stronger.

With LT, shocks usually range in shock strokes from 8″-12″ for the front and 12″-18″ for the rear.

How Much Travel Do You Need? 

Where 4″ of up travel and 4″ of down travel is the standard of most Tacomas. 6″ of up and down travel is a good starting point to look at when it comes to LT. For go-fast rigs, the priority should be on up travel whereas rock crawler rigs focus on both but less on up travel.

Go fast rigs want about 60%-70% more up travel whereas rock crawler rigs want about 30%-40% up travel, however, this is not always the case and you should engage the company you’re considering to determine what’s best for your build.

Example – Go fast Tacoma with 12″ of total travel in the front:

A go-fast long-travel Tacoma should aim for 7″ up travel and 5″ down travel.

For the rear, up travel should be 25% more than the front. Take 25% of the 7″ front up travel and add that to the rear up travel.

If 25% of 7″ = 1.75″ we want our rear up travel to be at least 8.75″.

Travel Distance (Wider per side)

+2″ Vs. +3″ Vs. +4″ – which distance should you choose?

Long travel is measured by “per side”. When you see a +2″ kit, that’s 2″ wider per side creating a track width of +4″ overall.

2″ Class

2″ kits are usually the “stage 1” of LT, also referred to as “Prerunner” kits, ranging from +2″ and up then typically scaled in 1/4″ measurements; +2.25″ and/or +2.5″, etc. The +2″ class kits yield anywhere from 11″-13″ of usable wheel travel. In this class, companies make many great options. For example, Total Chaos offers a standard 2″ kit and an expedition 2″ kit. The expedition kit offers 2 more inches of ground clearance over the standard 2″ kit. So even though a kit is marked as a 2″ long kit doesn’t mean they all boast the same specs. Also in this class, Camburg makes a 2″ Trail Series kit that’s designed around tight trail use and to perform well for daily driving all without needing to upgrade fenders. There are many other 2″ kits on the market but one that stands out is the JD Fabrication 2.25″ kit that pushes upwards of 13″ of wheel travel and also features a slew of additional upgrades. With 2″ LT you don’t always need fiberglass fenders but a mild 1″ flare is recommended. If you avoid fiberglass, you will need to trim your factory fenders to see clearance at full compression (bump travel). This class is designed for daily drivers and weekend warriors, especially with something like the 2″ Trail Series from Camburg.

3″ Class

Next, you have 3.5″ kits and these are typically considered race kits commonly featuring uniball joints over ball joints. In the 3″ class, Total Chaos offers two versions of their 3″ class; the standard series and the race series. The race kit offers 2.5″ more ground clearance and is 5 pounds lighter per lower arm than the standard series. TC offers both poly bushing uppers and/or heim joint uppers. Both kits pull about 12.5″ of wheel travel. Also in the 3″ class, you have Dirt King. Dirt King offers their signature kit with bushing uppers and/or heim uppers yielding around 13.5″ of wheel travel. DK also offers kit-specific 4340 Chromoly axle shafts and/or prebuilt axles with factory Tacoma joints. Finally, you have Camburgs 3.5″ Race Series kit which is similar to the TC and DK kits, although it does stand out quite a bit in their overall offering which we’ll get into below. There are so many great options in the 3″ race class. With 3″ LT you will need fiberglass fenders; at least a 3″ flare and 2″ rise. This class is meant for hard-core weekend warriors who go out often and want to push the limits in the desert and/or in the rocks.

4″ Class

Last but not least, you have the 4″ class. This is a bit overkill for most but is very impressive nonetheless. With kits such as the LSK 4.5″ and the JD Fabrication 4″, you can get into the most advanced and race-focused rock and/or crawling-focused IFS long travel kits on the market. Most advanced doesn’t always mean best though. With 4″ class LT, you need large flare + rise fiberglass fenders, and all the suspension components are very custom; axle shafts, steering rods, brake lines, limit straps, shocks, bump stops, and even fabricated spindles that allow even more up/down travel. In this class, most kits come with everything you need because everything is such a custom length. Extending your track width out 4″ per side or even 4.5″ per side is a lot. This class is designed for someone who is looking to hit the ultimate send button on dunes.

UCAs & LCAs

Not all uppers and lowers are created equal and long travel all starts with UCAs and LCAs. Here are a few key elements to look at when shopping for lower and upper control arms.

LCA Ground Clearance

An important item to consider when shopping for lower arms is clearance. Camburg uses a uniball adapter that goes under the uniball joint which positions the arm lower and actually offers less ground clearance than the factory. Dirt King and Total Chaos, for example, use the factory ball joint cradle so the lower arm goes above the joint which offers similar or even better ground clearance than the factory depending on tire size and other variables. For go-fast applications, ground clearance might not be as important for you. However, for rock crawling, ground clearance is very important. Pay attention to where the lower arm mounts to, on, or around the ball joint adapter.

LCA Front Slant

A slanted front surface for sliding over obstacles is very important for all drivers to consider, both go fast and rock crawling. Dirt King, Camburg, and JD Fabrication all offer a slant on the front of their LCAs. Pictured in the image above, you will see the JD Fab lowers with an aggressive slant on the face. Total Chaos, Marlin Crawler RCLT, and LSK on the other hand feature a completely boxed design with a flat front surface – not good for sliding over obstacles.

LCA Frame Pivots

Most companies such as Total Chaos uses polyurethane bushings at the frame pivot points. Dirt King, for example, uses Delrin bushings while JD Fabrication and Camburg both use 1″ uniballs. JD Fabrication takes it a step further and adds seals to their uniballs. Both the Derlin bushings and uniballs are going to offer a stiffer joint than poly bushings. Having stiffer joints is nice when you have 20%+ more leverage pulling/pushing on the frame pivots. With uniball joints, you have a wider range of alignment specs to increase your positive caster. Polyurethane bushings tend to squeak over time and don’t hold up well under extreme weather conditions.

LCA Wheel Placement

Some lower control arms have a positive caster spec and/or forward tire mounting built in. This is where you need to call each company you’re considering to ask whether or not they have a positive caster built into the arms and if not, how much room there is for adjusting the caster or pushing the wheel forward altogether. Dirt King, for example, has a positive caster spec built in, and so does JD Fabrication however JD goes a step further with its design. JD Fabrication builds cam tabs that allow forward positioning of the arm up to 7/8″ and that’s adjustable in increments of 1/4″. No one else offers that.

A major item to consider for UCAs is the uniball or ball joint and the cup. On vertically positioned uniballs, up travel is limited at the uniball cup colliding with the inner wheel well, and down travel is limited at the uniball colliding with the uniball cup. UCAs with an aggressive uniball cup slant will typically achieve more down travel. Pay attention to this slant on the UCA cup when purchasing UCAs.

UCAs from the LSK and Marlin Crawler LT kits, on the other hand, feature high-articulation horizontal uniballs. The down travel is now limited by limit straps and the up travel is limited by your tires depending on size. There is no doubt that high articulation horizontal uniballs on UCAs offer more up/down travel, however, this is highly dependent on tire size and other suspension components.

UCA Caster Correction 

Because the Tacoma upper control arm is mounted from the factory in a different plane than the lower control arm, as you lift or lower the truck the caster changes. The more you lift the truck the more caster you lose. This is why it’s always recommended to add a “caster-corrected” upper arm when you lift a Tacoma. Most of the companies on this list all make caster-corrected UCAs, however, if you move forward with a kit, do your research first.

Uniballs Vs. Ball Joints

Camburg & Moog Ball Joints (left) and Total Chaos Uniballs (right)

The choice between uniballs and ball joints has long been a debate, although both have some noticeable differences over factory joints.

Uniballs are known to have more articulation than traditional ball joints which is nice when you’re looking for the most possible travel from an LT setup. On top of offering an impressive range of motion, the uniballs architecture is stronger than that of a ball joint. Uniballs do require maintenance though and if neglected – over time they can start to squeak, and/or become loose. Because uniballs are typically stronger and offer the most articulation, they are used on most builds for professional race classes like Ultra4.

Ball Joints

Ball joints on the other hand were designed for the daily drivers of today’s world. Unlike uniballs, ball joints are a sealed architecture and therefore require less maintenance. Some will say that ball joints have less articulation than their counterparts, however many companies like JBA offroad claim a full 90 degrees of motion, and other companies that feature an aggressive uniball cup slant can also achieve high articulation with ball joints.

Sealed Uniballs

JD Fab uses its own solution which is the best of both worlds. They have custom EMF joints made with the factory Tacoma taper machined into the pins. An EMF joint is identical to a uniball in design however it’s built in a way to be completely sealed from the elements. The design gives you all the strength and articulation of the uniball while offering the sealed, maintenance-free design of a standard ball joint.  They are also easily rebuildable which is a huge cost savings compared to replacing uniballs.

You have many options when it comes to shocks; King, Fox, Radflo, Icons, ADS, etc. They all make shocks for LT suspension setups although King and Fox tend to lead the race. Fox is actually the largest shock manufacturer in the world. They make shocks for many applications and Tacoma applications are no exception. King also dominates the Tacoma market and is known for producing some of the highest-quality race shocks on the market. Regardless of which you choose, you can’t go wrong with either brand. There is a reason why every major LT manufacturer pairs their kits with either King or Fox; they’re both very dependable race shocks, although Fox is slowly gaining more Tacoma traction. Compared to other shocks, Fox uses higher-quality seals, shock oil, and shafts. Fox is also more expensive than King, but again both are great choices.

There are many types of shocks that can be used for a long travel setup; coilovers, bypass shocks, piggybacks, and smoothie shocks.

Coilovers & Bypass Shocks (Front)

Companies that make an LT kit usually spec very specific shocks for that kit. For example, some companies lean on Fox and some on King. Some companies adjust the valving for those shocks in-house, and some outsource it or they’ll even pair the kit with Toyota OE shocks. That said, most will spec an 8″ stroke with reservoirs along with an 8″ stroke on the secondaries, also with reservoirs. For most LT suspension kits, an 8″ stroke is plenty of shock travel for the front of the Tacoma running a +3″ kit or under. If you can, order the shocks that the company recommends because they are often tuned specifically for that kit.

Reservoirs & Adjusters

Reservoirs along with compression/rebound adjusters are an added bonus on all shocks. If you plan on pushing your limits and going fast, then reservoirs will help to keep your shocks from overheating. Adjusters are going to offer adjustments for stiff or loose piston stroke which means you can adjust them to be stiff while on road and loose while offroad. Adjusters are great for someone who plans on using the truck as a daily and weekend wheeling.

Double Shear

Double shear is defined as twice the shear force breaking strength. So for example, let’s look at double shear steering on the knuckles. In a factory steering setup, the tie rods’ rod end is connected to the knuckle with one bolt on one mounting surface (single shear). With double shear, a single bolt is still used, however, you sandwich that bolt between two surfaces (double shear). Now instead of one surface resisting the load, you have two surfaces. The bolt in double shear will have twice the shear strength of a bolt in single shear.

When it comes to long travel, many components are upgraded to double shear; inner and outer rod ends for steering, UCAs on the coil bucket, secondary shocks, and more.

Steering Rack

Factory Steering Rack (bottom), Tundra Steering Rack (Middle), Land Cruiser Steering Rack (top)

Most long-travel suspension kits on the market offer a solution for increased strength tie rods and rod ends but not a full steering rack replacement solution.

For most LT kits today, the rod ends being used are known as heim joints or “heims”. The outer rod ends thread onto the tie rod and connects to the knuckle. The inner rod ends thread onto the other end of the tie rod and connects to the steering rack. You can use factory inner rod ends or upgraded heim joints.

Depending on what steering rack you’re running will depend on how that inner rod connects up to a steering rack. If you’re running a factory Toyota steering rack and factory inner rods, just thread your tie rod onto the inner rod end.

If however, you upgrade to a Tundra or 200 series Land Cruiser rack, you will need a steering clevis kit with the correct thread pitch and bolt diameter . For the LC200 rack, you will want a 28mm clevis and for the Tundra, you want a 24mm clevis ( RC Fabrication can sell you both of these). You can, however, use the factory inner rod end that comes on the LC200 rack as the rod end is a good length for the Tacoma and plenty strong enough to turn a 37″ tire. But for the Tundra rack, you need to shorten the inner rod and rack down as the width is too long for the Tacoma. That is why Solo Motorsports makes a modified steering rack specifically made for the Tacoma.

Not many guys want to run the factory steering rack, especially after upgrading all of the other steering components. It’s the path of least resistance to the steering rack after double shear steering, and increased strength rods + rod ends – all while running increased size tires.

With that said, very few long travel kits on the market offer a complete solution all the way down to the steering rack. The Marlin Crawler RCLT kit does come with the “MarRack steering rack” which is an LC200 rack but they provide the pieces that can be challenging to source that connect the steering rack to the column.

Steering Rack (Rack & Pinion) Options:

• Solo Motorsports Modified Tundra Rack

200 Series Land Cruiser Rack Options: 

Lowest to the highest price

• Ultra Power 3676N
• A-Premium 369
• AAE AA36N Steering Rack (USA inspected & tested)
• Buy Auto Parts Remanufactured 80-01660R
• Toyota OE Rack & Pinion 80-01660R (this is the steering rack I bought)

Extended-Length CV Axles

You have a handful of options when it comes to running extended-length CV (constant velocity) axles.

For the most affordable option, you can run upgraded extended-length shafts (usually Chromoly or 300M) and reuse your inner and outer CV joints. This is affordable but it’s also very time-intensive as well. In order to rebuild the inner and outer CV joints , you need the right tools and a bit of patience. It’s not hard at all, just time and energy.

The next option is to buy partially pre-assembled axles and rebuild the outer joints of a CV axle only. This is usually when you want something a bit more custom and you’re either looking for a very specific type of inner joint or you want to save a bit of money by rebuilding your outer CV joints.

The most common option is to go with a company like RCV Axles and/or CVJ axles . These companies offer fully built CV axles designed for your specific width and application. Both of these companies offer great axles but RCV is usually the go-to because they pre-package axles specifically for mainstream kits like Total Chaos, Dirt King, Marlin Crawler, and others. If you have a custom long travel kit, or it’s a new and upcoming company that makes suspension components only, you may need to ask them exactly what CV axle they recommend for that kit and from what company they have tested their kit with.

Different companies offer different joints, too. Most companies offer rebuilt axles with factory-style architecture inner tripod joints and outer ball-style joints, although some offer internal components (4340 and/or 300M) that are much stronger. Some joints are strengthened even more with an upgraded cage as opposed to factory-style housing. For example, companies like JD Fabrication offer a 934 plunging CV axle joint. The 934 offers a full 28 degrees of articulation versus the stock joint sitting 21 degrees. The factory-style joints with upgraded internals are a bit more affordable than the 934-style joints but the 934 is even stronger and provides more articulation. The 934 is a clear winner but it comes at a higher price.

Before going all-in on axles, call these companies, explain your driving habits (fast and hard or slow and abusive) and they will tell you which axle is the best fit for you.

JD Fabrication 934 Axles (stock width, 2-2.5” and 3.5-4”)

• Fully or Partially Assembled with Core Exchange (2005-2015)
• Fully or Partially Assembled with Core Exchange (2016-current)

CV Axle (assembled) Options:

• Axle sets from RCV
• CVJ +2″ 9808 LT2 axle
• CVJ +3″ 9808 LT3 axle

Shaft-Only Options: 

• Call RCV and Order Length; +2″, +2.75, +3.5″, etc: (815) 877-7473
• Call CVJ Axles and Order Length: 1-800-292-2953

Inner & Outer Boots

• Inner CV Axle Boot Kit
• Outer CV Axle Boot Kit

Spring Under Vs. Spring Over

The debate between spring under axle (SUA) and spring over axle (SOA), has long been a controversial topic. Both options have their own unique pros and cons. Before you decide which option you’re going to proceed with on your build, first decide how you’re going to use your build. Are you moving fast through the desert over large whoops where lots of up-travel is needed or crawling slowly over large rocks where good, high clearance and good departure angles are needed?

It’s pretty simple at the end of the day; SUA is typically for fast guys and SOA is for guys who want more clearance – but not always. Again, this topic is one that’s debated hard on many different makes and models.

I’ve listed some bullet points below on a general consensus, however other factors can affect some of these bullets ultimately swaying them to the other side or making them a moot point. For example, some guys will claim SUA boasts better ride quality but ride quality is heavily dependent on spring weight and loaded (wet) bed weight. Can SUA provide a “better” ride quality? Yes, given you have all the other factors dialed in for that specific set-up. Other factors to fine-tune for overall ride quality and performance may include the height/drop of the front/rear shackle hangers, Deaver H70 Vs. H70HD springs, location of shocks, shock stroke, shock valving/tuning, location of perch over/under the axle, hydraulic bumps vs. progressive rubber bumps – along with other factors.

Can you achieve more travel with an SUA kit? Yes.

Does every build running LT in the front need an SUA rear? No.

Spring Over Axle (SOA):

• Better for rock crawling and higher clearance applications
• Provides more ground clearance than SUA

Spring Under Axle (SUA):

• Better suited for desert racing, fast, whoop-focused applications
• Usually provides more travel; specifically more up-travel or “Bump Travel” than SOA
• Lowers ride height
• Minimizes axle wrap

Spring Under Kits:

• Total Chaos Pre/4wd mid-travel (9.5″ travel)
• DMZ Pre/4wd (13″ travel)
• Dirt King Pre/4wd (16-18″ travel)
• JD Fabrication Pre/4wd (17-19″ travel)
• Camburg Pre/4wd (19″ travel)

Questions to Ask Before Buying

Before you run out and throw your hard-earned cash down on the first long travel kit that catches your eye we have put together a list of questions that everyone should be asking. As with most things in life people tend to gravitate towards the “bigger is always better” motto.  Long travel is no different and the assumption tends to lean towards the company with the biggest travel numbers being the best.  This couldn’t be further from the truth and the reality is the best product is the sum total of all of its parts/features. With that said here is the list of the top three questions you should be using when evaluating the different long travel kits. 

1. How long has the company been in business?

There are a lot of fly-by-night off-road shops throughout the country and only a handful of companies have been around for 20+ years. Having the piece of mind that you are purchasing a kit from a company with a solid track record is invaluable. After all, if things fail or replacement parts are needed you want to know the company will be there to assist you.

2. How long have they manufactured long-travel IFS kits?   

If the company has been in business for 20+ years but just started making long travel, you should consider that. Building an off-road IFS kit that can withstand whatever abuse you can throw at it is no small feat and refining the most optimum design can take years. The knowledge and experience a company holds are best gained from years and years of experience building long-travel IFS suspension components.

Most important of all is knowing that the company you purchased your kit from stands behind its product and is willing to assist you whenever you have questions. The older more established companies that have been producing long-travel IFS kits for decades are still in business for a reason and that’s not to be taken lightly.

3. What materials are used for the construction?

All too often this one gets glossed over but it’s important to know what materials these kits are made out of. Is the company using low-cost, low-strength mild steel or super strong, high-grade 4130 Chromoly? The strength difference between the two is dramatic and knowing what’s under that fancy powder coating is not to be overlooked!

4. What materials are used for the suspension pivots?

Is the company using poly bushings that become noisy and wear prematurely? Are they using harder Delrin bushings instead of poly? Did they do away with bushings altogether in favor of uniballs? How about sealed uniballs?

While the cost of uniball pivot arms has a greater upfront cost the performance and reduction of maintenance far outweigh the cost. Even better would be a sealed uniball design that will never squeak (like poly bushings) while remaining completely sealed from the elements. After all, the last thing you want is to drop a bunch of cash on a kit that is constantly needing maintenance to keep it from squeaking and rattling.

1. Total Chaos (+2″ and +3.5″)

Total Chaos has long been the leader of the LT segment for decades when it comes to LT Toyota applications. They offer everything from beginner kits to extremely advanced kits and for many makes and models. They are well known for their wide variety of sizes. They offer parts for both the front and rear of your Tacoma and if they don’t have a full plug-and-play option for the rear – they work with just about every company out there so they can recommend a comparable rear setup for whatever front you decide to purchase.

Kit Offerings

Total Chaos leads the race offering 4 total kits; multiple +2″ and +3.5″ kits. The +2″ expedition kit offers 2″ more ground clearance than the +2″ standard series kit. In the +3.5″ class, they offer two kits; the standard series & race series. The race series +3.5″ kit provides 2.5″ more ground clearance and is 5 pounds lighter per lower arm than the standard series +3.5″ kit. You can get any of these kits with bushing or heim pivots at the UCAs.

• +2″ Standard Series
• +2″ Expedition Series
• +3.5″ Standard Series
• +3.5″ Race Series

Find it online: 

• +2″ Standard Series Kit
• +2″ Expedition Series Kit
• +3.5″ Standard Series Kit
• +3.5″ Race Series Kit

2016-Current

Trail Takeaway

Total Chaos starts at around $3100 and goes up from there. If you’re looking at the 2″ class, you might as well opt for their +2″ Expedition Series at $3600 as it gives you another 2″ of ground clearance over their standard kit. The same applies to their +3.5 Race Series kit. It’s only another $500 for less weight and more ground clearance.

The downside of Total Chaos is that they use poly bushings and not sealed uniballs or even open uniballs for the pivots. Also, the TC lowers are boxed and do not feature a slant for sliding over obstacles which you should consider if you like the rocks. Finally, you can buy the axle shafts on Total Chaos but you will need to assemble your inner and outer joints. They do not offer fully built axles at this time.

2. Camburg (+2″ and +3.5″)

Camburg is a race truck company at the core and they have been for over two decades. They build chassis, and axle housings for trophy trucks from the ground up and provide some of the most dependable parts for quite a few Ultra4 class builds. Camburg isn’t just moving the needle when it comes to quality fabrication, they also bring insane ingenuity to the table. They just released their new “slapper arm” kit which is a hydraulic bump stop connected to a lower control arm via a link. Simply put, it’s designed to vastly improve bottom-out control. If you like FOX shocks, you’re right at home with Camburg. They pair just about everything they build with FOX, however, Kings work as well.

Camburg currently offers two kits; a trail series +2″ kit with the slapper arm bump stops and a race series 3.5″ kit which can also be optioned with the slapper arm bumps. Both are available with bushing or heim pivots at the UCAs. You can add extended-length axle shafts, however, they do not come assembled. You will need to reassemble your outer and inner joints once the shafts come. For spindles, Camburg doesn’t offer a spindle gusset kit, however, they offer their fabricated performance spindle kit which works with their LT kit. If you want to option secondary bypass shocks, you need to call or order them separately. Also, if you want double-shear steering and outer/inner rod ends – you need to call.

Find it Online: 

• Race Series Kit
• Rear Spring Under Kit

Camburg sells a bunch of parts for the rear as well; HD Deaver springs, a pre-fabricated bed cage, leaf perches, and a spring under kit. This company is the real deal when it comes to LT as they have been in the game for decades. The only challenge I see with the Camburg lower arms is that they sit lower than other arms due to their lower ball joint adapter kit on the LCAs. If rock crawling is important, this might be a kit you want to avoid as you will lose clearance here.

3. Dirt King (+3.5″)

Dirk King is relatively new to the long travel scene with roots back to 2011. DK got its start with Prerunner style front bumpers and custom fabrication services – with a focus on the Titan market. Then they finally entered the Toyota market with their boxed upper control arms in 2014, and then finally LT kits sometime around 2015-2016. Although Dirk King is relatively new to the scene, they have quickly become an industry leader. Right up there with Camburg and Total Chaos, Dirt King is quickly gaining market share with their high-quality kits and full-service product offering. I really like what Dirt King has to offer for LT.

They offer the +3.5″ race kit at this time boasting an impressive 13.5″ of wheel travel with the option of bushing or heim pivots at the UCAs. Their lower control arm features an aggressive slant on the forward face instead of a boxed design which will help clear obstacles in the rocks. Another notable selling point is that they use Derlin bushings, not poly bushings like TC. Finally, the DK lowers feature built-in forward positioning of about 1/2″ which pushes your wheel forward which is a plus for wheel placement for larger tires.

• +3.5″ Dirt King Kit
• Dirt King Axle Assemblies
• Dirt King Spring Under Kit

DK offers many secondary components that complement the kit both front and rear. To start, they sell fully assembled axles with the inner and outer CV joints assembled on LT shafts – shipped to your door. Not many companies other than JD Fabrication offer fully-built LT CV axles. This is a huge upsell for some who don’t want to pull apart inner and outer CV joints.

Dirt King also offers a spring under kit for the rear, a prefabricated bed cage designed for 16″ shocks, and the H70 HD Deaver springs you need for the rear. They also sell all the compatible coilovers, triple bypasses, and rear shocks for an LT kit. Dirt King carries and sells literally every part you need for a full plug-and-play LT kit for the 2nd and 3rd Gen Tacoma.

4. JD Fabrication (+2.25″ and +4″)

JD Fabrication builds desert race trucks and fabricates some pretty interesting parts that no other company makes. Their team has built long travel suspensions for well over 20+ years. These guys offer every solution the industry wants for LT, but be prepared to pay. Let’s start with their LCA pivot kit. This is the answer for larger tires. This kit removes the factory LCA mounting points and welds in a wider replacement with adjustable cams which push the lower control arm up to 1″ forward. That’s not pushing the caster (measured in degrees) forward, that’s pushing the center point of where your wheel mounts to the LCA.

This will clear a 33″ tire without any modification at all, a 35″ tire with minimal modification, and a 37″ with mild modifications (pictured above). JD Fabrication also offers one of the strongest CV axle joints on the market; the 934 Chromoly caged plunging CV joint with 300m axle shafts.

Additionally, they offer a set of inner fender replacements, a steering rack “slide rack” reinforcement, and all the other bells and whistles that most mainstream companies are producing; LT bypass shock hoops, double shear steering upgrade, Chromoly tie rods, spindle gussets, steering pump upgrades, spring under kits, and more.

They offer +2.25″ and +4″ length kits with just about everything you need to go along with them. We wrote a full overview blog post on their 2.25″ long travel kit and then another step-by-step installation guide as well. If you want to read more about the JD Fabrication offering, check out those posts for more on their kit offerings.

2nd Gen Tacoma (2005-2015)

• 2005-2015 Lower Arm Pivots   $100 Off (Coupon code “trailtaco”)
• 2.25″ Long Travel Kit
• Front Skid Plate
• 934 CV Axle Upgrade Kit

3rd Gen Tacoma (2016-Current)

• 2016-Current Lower Arm Pivots   $100 Off (Coupon code “trailtaco”)

Trail Takeaway 

You can buy everything you need from JD Fabrication. One really important detail about JD Fabrication is that they do not use heims on their UCAs as heims that are exposed to the elements don’t hold up through extreme weather conditions. Instead, they have machined upper and lower uniball inner pivots that accept seals and are 100% weatherproof. At the time of writing, no one else offers sealed uniballs where the uppers and lowers pivot. Additionally, they use very high-quality sealed EMF uniballs for the outer pivots. This is a dependable LT kit for those that live in an area where harsh weather is consistent, or you drive on the beach with salt water, among many other scenarios.

All of their kits are constructed out of 1/8″ and 3/16” Chromoly with extensive internal ribbing. They also incorporate an integrated CV “pocket” built into the LCA so the arms can achieve more ground clearance. Finally, JD Fab kits will work with the OE style king and Fox shocks.

This is the kit we choose to run on our 2G Tacoma for a reason. It stands out from all the other companies on the market for our intended use; heavy rock crawling with trips to the beach and go-fast moments here and there. This kit really does it all – which is why I wrote this post.

5. LSK (+4.5″)

LSK makes a couple of monster long travel kits; a race kit for 2wd Tacomas pushing almost 16″ of travel, a spindle bolt-on kit for 2wd trucks pushing 14″ of travel, and a kit for 4wd rigs also pushing 14″ of wheel travel. All kits are +4.5″ wider on each side and come with the LSK signature heim pivot UCAs. And, instead of uniballs or ball joints connecting at the spindle, they feature heims boasting a full range of articulation where your only limit is how you set your limit straps and build your fender wells.

LSK is very different from every other kit on the market due to its unique a-arms, heim pivots, cam lockout plates, and supplied pre-built spindles. They also provide everything else you need for your kit; rod ends that connect double shear at their spindles, DOT extended brake lines, secondary shock hoops, the necessary shocks, and all the hardware you need to link it all together.

Even though they call their kits “bolt-on” there are still some areas that need to be welded so don’t let the product titles fool you. All in all though, if you’re going with a +4.5″ LT kit, you’re not worried about a little welding.

LSK does provide extended-length RCV axle shafts, however, you’re responsible for rebuilding the outer and inner joints when the shaft arrives. If you want prebuilt axles, just order +4.5″ LT axles direct from RCV – booted and all.

This is the kit you buy if you want to go extremely fast, maybe swap in a 2JZ, LS, or something insane that warrants some serious race travel.

6. Marlin Crawler RCLT (+2.75″ and +3.5″)

The leader in everything offroad is Marlin Crawler. They have led the race in aftermarket part fabrication for decades and their RCLT kit is no exception. It’s by far one of the most advanced long travel systems specifically designed for rock crawling, hence the name “Rock Crawling Long Travel” .

This is Marlin Crawler’s first venture into the IFS world and offers two options for the new LT kit; the +2.75″ and the +3.5″ version both pushing 12.5″ of wheel travel measured at the hub and 14.5″ at the centerline. The kit comes with horizontal ball joint linked at the spindle and bushing pivot UCAs, CAD design pre-fabricated knuckles/spindles with double shear steering points for their MarRack (200 Series Land Cruiser Rack), 1/4″ mild steel boxed lower control arms with horizontal ball joints, and finally, the kit uses FK uniball bearings and tie rod ends. The kit’s knuckles are pushed forward +2″ over the factory increasing both forward wheel positioning and approach angle.

Marlin Crawler has a few configurable options for this kit but it really breaks down into their “ Standard Installation ” which runs you about $9000 and their “ Ultimate Installation ” which sets you back almost $12,000. That’s with everything you need out the door; LT kit, shocks, axles, and steering rack.

The LT kit alone is around $7500.00. Then you have to pay for your shocks (coilovers and optional bypasses), the 200 Series Land Cruiser steering rack, and CV axles. This is a great LT option if you’re solely looking to dominate the rocks.

This kit is designed for the person that really wants this kit. Marlin Crawler has done a great job of selling this kit as the “premier option” and “leader” in rock crawling IFS, however, there are other kits that compete. Just because the slowest Tacoma on IG (owner of Marlin Crawler) is running 40s with this kit doesn’t mean you should or can. That Tacoma is also running dual cases (Marlin Crawler Taco Box) which helps to reduce the stress on many other parts and maintain control when wheeling at low and high torque. Running a reduction box is very important if you’re considering IFS on 40s for many reasons. These RCLT parts are impressive, yes. However, they do oversell some points on tire size and don’t tell the whole story of what really needs to be done to run 40s.

7. Baja Kits (+2″)

Baja Kits offers a +2″ kit pushing 11″ of travel. This kit is about as straightforward as it gets when it comes to long travel; boxed upper and lower A-arms, Delrin bushings pivot the UCAs/LCAs, uniballs, extended brake lines, and all the hardware you need to install. Baja Kits does show a photo of their “heat-treated axle shafts” that comes with the kit, however, they do not quote whether or not it’s Chromoly or 300M. We also don’t know if they use mild steel or Chromoly for the construction of the arms. At this time, no options are configurable for assembled axles, limit straps, cans/brackets for hydro bumps, spindle gussets, and/or UCA double shear gussets (although they do sell these separately), hoops for bypasses, and nothing in the steering department either. They do, however, sell King coilovers and bypasses.

The kit does not come with options for what most would consider “must-haves” when building a long-travel suspension so if you want a fully built-out LT kit with all the bells and whistles, you might want to look elsewhere.

All in all, you know the quality is there with Baja Kits because of their parent company. Brenthel Industries (a race truck build, design, and engineering company), builds and manufactures all their uppers and lowers.

8. All-Pro Off-Road (+2″)

The All-Pro Offroad kit is a +2″ kit boasting 12″ of wheel travel and 2″ of ground clearance. All-Pro Offroad actually offers a pretty robust kit for the money. For a similar price to what most kits sell just uppers and lowers for, All-Pro Offroad includes the majority of parts you need. In this +2″ long travel kit you will find tubular-style Chromoly UCAs and LCAs, limit straps with brackets, DOT brake lines, spindle gussets, rod end extensions, along with the inner and outer CV boot kit. The only items you won’t find included in the kit are shocks, bump stops and axle shafts. And, if you want secondary shocks, you will need to source the hoops and bypasses separately.

For around $3200, it’s actually a pretty good deal for a +2 kit.  The uppers and lower are not boxed, but they are Chromoly so you know they’re plenty strong. The fact that it’s being manufactured and sold by All-Pro Off-Road should give you plenty of peace of mind going into the purchase.

These kits has been around for quite a while now. If you’ve been watching All-Pro recently, they’ve been slowly giving sneak peaks of their completely redesigned system. A system that is supposed to be a superior, direct competitor for the RCLT HD kit. More to come soon!

Find It Online

• 2005-2015 All-Pro Long Travel Kit
• 2016-2023 All-Pro Long Travel Kit

Final Thoughts

There is an LT option out there for everyone, however, the two most robust offerings on the market are from JD Fabrication and Marlin Crawler. Both companies offer the complete package and a quality solution for Toyota IFS.

JD Fabrication

We decided on the JD Fabrication 2.25″ kit for our Gen 2.5 Tacoma previously pictured above. JD Fab offers selling points that no other company offers, mainly found in their LCA pivot kit. The LCA pivots allow for larger tires without extensive cutting and/or tubbing of the firewall, depending on tire size. If you want to maximize tire clearance around the firewall, keep your Tacoma aligned to factory spec with the arms in the center of the adjustment range, and eliminate side load on pivot bushings all without sacrificing on-road driver comfort, then this is a kit to consider. They also paid very specific attention to ensuring that every pivot point on the suspension is fully sealed making the kit ideal for those that live in harsh climates.

This kit offers the best combination of “go fast” strength while still maintaining insane ground clearance in the rocks thanks to the integrated CV pocket. JD Fabrication has been building long travel suspensions for over two decades and on paper, their new LCA pivot kit challenges almost everything we know about Toyota IFS. The cool part about the LCA pivot kit is the pivot opening is the same as the factory which means you can run any lower arms that fit the factory all while pushing the tires forward upwards of 1″. Your options are endless with JD Fab, you can piece your own LT kit together or you can stay within the JD Fab ecosystem of products and also end up with a very custom setup.

Marlin Crawler

The Marlin Crawler 2.75″ RCLT sits at the top as another IFS LT contender and some will argue that it’s the best rock-focused LT kit out there, however, some have debated that point and the quoted travel numbers. That said, it’s made by Marlin Crawler who’s been a staple brand in the off-road community for decades so you know you can trust their quality which is why I think it’s a great option. The kit does feature quality selling points like a fully fabricated spindle and horizontal uniball pivots. These are nice, but a fully fabricated spindle doesn’t guarantee more up-and-down travel based on articulation range alone. Wheel travel is also limited by the inner fender well, fenders, bump stops/mounts, among other limiting factors.

RCLT quotes the kit as compatible with a 40″ tire as that is the tire size warranty limit of RCV axles, and the arms do push the tires forward upwards of 2″, however, a lot of work goes into running 40″ tires on Toyota IFS. You can expect more work than just upgrading your steering rack, CV axles, and connecting double shear points on the spindles. Also, keep in mind that the MarRack is simply a Land Cruiser 200 series rack. We installed one on our 2nd Gen Tacoma almost a year ago so it can be done on your own with any other kit, given you have the know-how. The benefit of buying a kit from Marlin Crawler is that you get their install kit for the rack which includes a jig and all the secondary hardware needed to connect the shaft. On the landing page of bullet points and benefits , Marlin Crawler sells the kit well, however, you need to source many extra parts on top of their kit. At the end of the day, you don’t have that many options with this kit. They offer two options and they’re both very expensive.

Other Options

LSK, like Marlin, also offers a very comprehensive kit with their fabricated spindle, although there is very little information online about their testing and performance.

If you’re looking for a bolt-on kit, Camburg, Dirt King, All-Pro Off-Road, and Total Chaos offer great entry-level to advanced options. These companies all offer straight bolt-on options along with add-ons that require fabrication as well. You can expect fabrication work anytime you add additional parts like secondary shocks, hydro bumps, and limit straps, among other items.

Within each of the company offerings, most differences come down to LCA and UCA design. Reference that section on this post again, and you’ll understand how important every aspect of the LCA and UCA design is when purchasing a kit.

It’s hard to choose one kit on this page as the “best” as there is no best in this industry, only the best for how you intend on using your truck.

Brenan Greene

Brenan is the founder of Trail4R.com, Toyota guy through and through, verified nature lover, lightweight photographer, exploration enthusiast, and certified serial blogger.

People incorrectly assume that tire width affects traction and it is actually the longitudinal section where the tire is in contact with the ground. The way to increase this contact area is with a taller tire and not a wider tire. Wide tires are good for floating over snow and sand but those are special case situations. Wide tires that extend past the sides of the truck are a good way to toss rocks up against your truck and any vehicle or person in your vicinity.

Great article… I’ve got a TC Race 2” on my 5th gen 4runner. I love the functionality but after fighting the poly bushings for years I’m ready to find a new system if I can’t find a lasting solution to their noise. They’re way too noisy! Any suggestions on managing the noise of poly bushings? (Other than lube and maintenance) If not, I’m ready to move on. Thanks!

Very very informative article, I currently have a stage 1 mid travel kit on my 3rd gen mostly used for overlanding and camping, but have been looking to upgrade to a “go-fast” LT set up and couldn’t have found a better article. Thank you lots I will rely heavily on your info as I still consider myself new to the OR community.

Great read !!

Awesome, glad you enjoyed it. Only took me 2-3 months to write. haha

Only question I have is how much of my current set up can I salvage or does it all have to b changed for a LT coming from the Mid Travel

It depends on the setup you’re running but for most kits you replace everything. You can always keep your factory spindles, steering rack along with inner and outer CV joints, but everything else is longer and wider. Those parts include coilovers, tie-rods, CV shafts, LCAs, UCAs, in addition to all the other parts and pieces you need. Things like limit straps, optional cam tab gussets, and optional double shear components if you choose to go that route.

i thought so, well seems my 2.5 kings are going on my dads 2nd gen lol thanks for the response and info

Going down the road of long travel for my 3rd gen Tacoma right now and this is by far the most helpful information online. Thanks for this.

Awesome, let me know if you have any questions.

correct me if I’m wrong, but if this adds some width to the front then what do you do to the back, like would you have to use spacers or offset wheels only in the back?

Yeah, you’re right. On our JD FAB 2.25” LT we’re running 1.25” spacers in the rear to match the front.

no mention of the Solo Motorsports XLT kit which is +4.5″ and offers 19″ of useable travel with 4wd

Yeah Solo makes some killer stuff. I’ll work on getting them integrated into this post when I have some free time. Thanks for the heads up.

Great writeup! I can’t wait to get my Total Chaos kit on my truck!

This is probably one of the most informative articles that truly adds value to the conversation of LT for Toyota.

Talk about a walk through of all of the pros and cons! LT is a very in depth subject for any vehicle, it’s nice to see a thorough dissection of the products available and why one might be better for someone over another. Bravo! I would like to see a little more general information on the maintenance that can be expected with an LT equipped truck, because there is a lot more than a stock setup 🙂

DUDE. Wow. I’ve spent a lot of time over the years doing quite a bit of research to really understand how to build my truck. Resources that go this deep are few and far between. This is definitely one you need to bookmark. This an essential post on all things long travel. I learned quite a bit too! Also, having driven your 2G, the JD Fabrication really is next level. That pivot kit is a game changer.

This was super informative, I didn’t realize that true LT started at 2″ always thought it was 3-4″+). TONS of considerations it seems if you want to do LT the right way and this is an excellent resource to get started ??

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• Mods 1 – Getting Started
• Mods 2 – Tire Size Guide
• Mods 3 – Tire Buying Guide
• Mods 4 – Performance
• Mods 5 – Lift & Level Kits
• Mods 6 – Grille Kits
• Mods 7 – Headlights
• Mods 8 – Fog Lights
• Mods 9 – Rock Sliders
• Mods 10 – Roof Racks
• Mods 11 – Front Bumpers
• Mods 12 – Rear Bumpers
• Mods 13 – Skid Plates
• Mods 14 – Wheels
• Switch Systems
• Rooftop Tents
• Acc Lighting
• Tail Lights
• Rock Sliders
• Skid Plates
• Front Bumpers
• Rear Bumpers
• Accessories
• Recovery Gear
• Refrigerators
• Trail Tested
• Maintenance

5th Gen Mods , Feature Friday , Off-Road , Overland , Suspension , Trail Tested

Feature friday: 10 must-see 5th gen 4runner long travel suspension setups.

Looking for a Wide Stance & Tons of Suspension Travel? Check Out These 10 Unique 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner Long Travel Off-Road & Overland Builds

This Week’s Topic: Long Travel 4Runners

Holy smokes do we have some awesome rigs for you for this Feature Friday! This week we are cranking up the suspension dial WAY past 11 with these 10 killer long traveled 5th Gen 4Runner builds.

So real fast, what is long-travel suspension?

The whole point of long travel is to gain better performance off-road, and more specifically for high-speed off-road applications.

In terms of parts, a typical lift kit allows you to gain more ground clearance by increasing your overall ride height. In simple terms, most common lift kits only require upgraded coilovers, extended rear springs, and maybe some upper control arms if needed/recommended for the lift height. Some of the options might just increase overall performance and some might actually give you more travel. That’s usually where 95% of us would stop and call it a day. Not these dudes…

Long travel kits use that same suspension upgrade concept and then take it to the next level with extended length coilovers, and in some cases, secondary shocks with remote reservoirs for increased damping for compression/rebound.

A long travel kit, due to changes in suspension geometry, will allow for increased wheel travel over factory suspension and assist you with running larger tires. To achieve additional “longer” wheel travel, these kits start with extended lower control arms (LCAs), upper control arms (UCAs) and build from there.

In addition to extended-length upper and lower control arms, most long travel kits will have upgraded wider/stronger axles with stronger joints, extended tie rods, limit straps, extended-length bump stops, and other strength enhancements like gusseted spindles, and gusseted control arm mounts.

For the rear of the 4Runner, a long travel kit will require extended brake lines, upgraded trailing arms, extended height springs, increased travel shocks, and of course, extended length bump stops. When it comes to shocks for long travel kits, they typically feature adjustable remote reservoirs to allow the internal shock body oil to stay within peak operating temperature while the suspension is aggressively cycling, as well as the ability to tune the ride.

Now enough talking, let’s see these rigs in action!!

10 Epic 4Runners with Long Travel

1. adam wolfe ( @builtbysquirrels ) – 2018 trd or.

Long Travel Suspension Details

• LSK 4.5” Prototype Kit
• Boxed LCAs with Recessed Shock Mounts & 1.5” Horizontal Uniball
• Built-in Air Bump Pads & Delrin Bushings
• Boxed UCAs With Heims & Vertical Uniball
• Fully Boxed Spindle Replacement with Dual Shear Steering
• ADS 8” Shocks with Reservoirs & 600lb 18” Springs
• ADS 2.125X2 Air Bumps
• Sway Bar Delete
• 12” Radflo Shocks
• Dobinsons 59-677V Springs
• DuroBumps Bump Stops
• 22” Brake Lines

What Do You Like About Your Setup?

I loved working with LSK Suspension to R&D a 4.5+ LT kit for the 5th Gen 4Runner. From start to finish, they were fantastic with a quick turnaround on sending new parts to swap out ones that weren’t working for this build. This finalized kit is incredible! Everything from the build quality to their customer support, I’m very happy with the choice of going with LSK.

But we’re not here to talk about the company, you’re here to know what it rides like. The answer is simple, it’s like a cloud off-road. The suspension articulates flawlessly while the wheels feel solid and planted. I just point and go, and the 4Runner takes me. Just a friendly reminder though, you’re 9” wider than stock. Having 17×9 wheels with a -12 offset and 35×12.5 tires, puts the outside tire to the outside tire to 89” wide. I believe the kids would call it THICCC . That being said, it’s unlike any other kit on the market and the only one with the upper and lower uniballs on the spindle for the 4runner.

2. Jonathan Armada ( @NC.4Runner ) – 2013 SR5 Premium

• Radflo Shocks/Coilovers
• Radflo Hydraulic Bump Stops
• Total Chaos +2 UCAs
• Total Chaos +2 LCAs
• Dobinsons Rear Arms
• Dobinsons Rear PHB
• Dobinsons Springs

I love how well the 4Runner rides with this suspension set up from Radflo.

The hydro bumps on all 4 corners keep the vehicle handling as if it still had sway bars. The 4Runner crawls really well since I’m able to keep all the tires on the grounds while the rig is articulating. The wider track also gives the 4Runner a better stance and stability off-road as well. And lastly, you can’t forget about that look!

3. AB Castro ( @Dj_ayybeats ) – 2005 SR5 2WD

• Dirt King 3.5+ Long Travel Kit
• Dirt King Upper Arm Sheer Kit
• Dirt King Bypass Shock Hoop Kit
• King Shocks Long Travel Spec 2.5 x 8” Coilovers
• King Shocks Long Travel Spec 2.5 x 8” 3 Tube Bypasses
• Camburg 4” Performance Spindle
• King Shocks 12” Triple Bypasses
• Califabrication Rear Shock Relocation
• Califabrication Adjustable Upper, Lower Links and Panhard Bar
• Dobinsons 3” Dual Rate Coils
• Locked Off-Road 2.0 x 2” Threaded Bump Stops
• Yukon 4:88 Gears

I like that I can daily my vehicle while still being able to take it off-road whenever I want.

This 4Runner is able to withstand the punishment I put it through whenever I take it out on the trail without any hiccups. The setup is simple yet so unique in its own way. This rig is definitely a neck breaker whenever I take it out on the streets or off-road.

Jon’s Note:  Yes I know this is 4th Gen 4R, but it’s SO SICK!!

4. Tim Curley ( @milk.wagon ) – 2018 SR5

• Dobinsons MRR Rear Long Travel Setup
• Dobinsons MRA59-A575 3-Way Adjustable Shocks
• DuroBumps Extended 5.5″ Bump Stops
• Toytec 1″ Body Lift
• Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms
• Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
• MetalTech 4×4 Extended Stainless Steel Brake Lines
• Dobinsons Adjustable Rear Panhard Bar
• Dobinsons C59-701V Variable Rate Rear Springs

Watching the Dobinsons rear long travel go to work on some rock shelves is almost as fun as actually driving up to them yourself. The amount of articulation the 4Runner gets from these bolt-on parts is truly impressive.

Since my 4R is part of the SR5 gang (open diffs), keeping both rear wheels planted goes a long way in terms of crawling. By no means does this modification replace the need for lockers, but it sure does bring the capability of a SR5 4Runner to a whole new level.

5. Richard Yan ( @ryr_t4r ) – 2019 TRD OR

• Total Chaos +3.5 Race Kit with King Coilovers & Triple Bypass Shocks
• Dirt King Double Shear Upper Gussets
• Custom Gussets For Main Hoop & Engine Crossbar
• Boxed In Lower Control Arms
• DRT Body Mount Relocation Kit
• The rear is custom by AZWillis Fabrication. It’s a cantilever rear end achieving 18″ of wheel travel. It’s also a custom 4 Link with no pan hard bar.

This setup rides nice and smooth. Long travel kits are all about the tuning of the shocks and having the proper setup. You can pay however much you want for a suspension setup, but if it’s not properly tuned, then it’s a waste of money.

I had a lot of trial and error trusting the wrong people when it came to getting this setup dialed in. However, after I had to redo a few things, the stars started to align and I was able to finalize this long travel kit for my 4Runner.

6. Johnny Shin ( @ramensavedmylife ) – 2016 SR5

• BTF 4.5+ Coilover LT Kit
• 2.5 / 8” King Shock Coilovers w/ Triple Tube Secondary Shocks
• 2.0 x 2” Hydro Bump Stops
• 2.5 Stock Replacements w/ OME 899s
• Timbren Rubber Bump Stops

The truck definitely still needs a lot of work, but I do still enjoy how it handles thus far. The limited travel and cushion in the rear still bugs me honestly. But that should all get sorted out in a couple of months when some new suspension bits come in.

I’m just glad I went LT before all the mid travel jazz. Might as well just pay once and enjoy than pay twice and regret it. This truck’s platform has so much potential and I’m still putting all the pieces together.

7. Nathan Krig ( @trdlun4r ) – 2021 TRD Pro

• Total Chaos 3.5” Race Long Travel Kit
• King 2.5” Long Travel Coilovers w/ 700lb springs
• Total Chaos Secondary Shock Hoop w/ King 2.5” Triple Tube Bypass Long Travel Shocks
• Total Chaos UCAs
• OME 700lb 3” Lift Springs
• Total Chaos Rear Control Arm Kit
• 3” King Rear 2 Tube Bypass Shocks
• King Shocks 2” Stubby Air Bumps

I chose components that work well together and that would provide a wide range of tuning for different terrains. Adding the secondary triple bypass front shocks allows the rig to run with no front sway bar and still allows the 4Runner to handle great both on and off-road.

Knowing I can drive how I want, take a turn when I want, and cruise at the same speed off-road as I can on-road is what I wanted out of this build, and it delivers on that with ease.

8. Jacob Cutting ( @mag4rnr ) – 2019 SR5

• BTF Fabrication +4.5” LT Kit
• 8” Coilovers w/ 700lb Springs
• 8” Three Tube Bypass
• 2” 2.0 Bump Stops
• 8” Two Tube Bypass
• Dobinsons 701V Springs

This LT setup allows me to get where I need to go fast and as smoothly as possible. The 4Runner floats over everything I put it through both on and off-road.

With all the extra wheel travel I can keep my tires on the ground while articulating through obstacles. This helps out huge for better traction while off-road since the SR5 doesn’t come with a rear locker like the TRD Off-Road models. Overall this setup is has been great and as an added bonus, the 4R also looks awesome!

9. Chris Alexander ( @shepherdrunna ) – 2018 TRD OR

• Total Chaos +2 Standard Kit
• Total Chaos LCAs
• King Coilovers
• CVJ Extended Axles
• Gusseted Spindles & Cam Tabs
• 12″ Stroke King Coilovers w/ Remote Reservoirs
• Metaltech Upper and Lower Links
• Dobinsons 677V Variable Rate Springs
• Icon Track Bar w/ Eimkeith PCK
• Extended Break Lines

What I enjoy most is the performance this setup delivers both on and off-road. The front long travel works excellent off-road on a variety of terrain while still providing a comfortable driving experience on the highway.

The price point is was pretty reasonable and the customer service by Total Chaos was excellent. All of the products I put on my 4Runner are tried and true. You can’t go wrong with Total Chaos combined with King Shocks.

10. Clinton Saephan ( @amg_t4r ) – 2016 Trail

• Total Chaos +2 Long Travel
• Kings Shocks 2.5 w/ Remote Reservoirs & Adjusters
• 600lb Springs
• Califabrication 3 Link Kit
• Fox 2.0 14” Coilovers w/ Reservoir
• 14”- 250 + 16” – 250 Top-Bottom Spring Rate

What I like about this long travel kit is just how comfortable it rides on and off-road compared to stock/mid travel. The Total Chaos LT kit performs extremely well while rock crawling even though it was originally built for racing, which is what I first liked about it. I definitely love the added stance it also gives to the 4Runner. It just makes your rig look tough and aggressive.

The up travel and down travel performs amazingly as well. I’m able to keep my rigs tires planted on the ground most times while traversing over sketchy terrain. With the LT kit being wider than the stock track width, the rig feels a bit safer while going through sketch sections or tipsy areas out on the trail. You will not be disappointed with this kit from Total Chaos.

Final Thoughts

These next-level long travel 4Runners were absolutely amazing! I enjoy how each owner picked a long travel suspension kit for their own reasons as well. The SR5 group chose LT to help compensate for the lack of rear locker in their 4Runners. Several owners mentioned this, and to be honest, that never even crossed my mind as a reason to justify a better suspension system. See, even I learned something with this Feature Friday.

Other builds on this list were built to go fast through any terrain. You can see that in the @builtbysquirrels , @magrnr , and @trdlun4r builds. These rigs are next level and have been built to literally conquer any terrain, and fast. All the builds this week were absolutely KILLER! I can’t wait to see next week’s submissions.

If you would like to be considered for next week’s Feature Friday, we will be showcasing AFTERMARKET HEADLIGHTS.

We want readers to get inspired by a variety of rigs/products. Submit your build for Feature Friday and you might get featured. If you would like to submit your build for next week, include your setup details and an awesome photo that shows it off.

Have a great weekend everyone!

Jon Gangloff

@TRDJON - I love Toyota news, reviews, and how-tos! There are big things on the horizon for Toyota and I can't wait to share them with you all!

 CHRIS ALEXANDER ( @SHEPHERDRUNNA ) – 2018 TRD ORWhy the extended axles and gusseted spindles? For suspension or wider wheel tires

What size tires are on NATHAN KRIG (@TRDLUN4R) – 2021 TRD PRO? I really like the set-up.

It would be interesting if someone highlighted the changes needed for LT in the rear. I’ve purchased the TC kit for the rear of my 5th gen (not installed yet), and was wondering if the sway bar needs extensions, or just run it like it is.

Also, Ben at Filthy Motorsports posted a vid on youtube on 5th gen 4runner rear shocks and considerations thereof, when running LT.

It kinda makes your head spin!

Thanks for the article, Mike

You can buy extended adjustable links, from Dobinson’s for example, I run MT rear LT shocks and your lower trailing arms will bottom out on the axle housing before the swaybar becomes a limiting factor. I run a combination of offset trailing arms and extended sway bar links and get full ~12″ of travel out of the rear shocks.

Honestly, I’d delete the rear swaybar. Try it before the lift goes on to test it out. You won’t even notice it’s gone.

Delete? That is a possibility. When I’m done I want to try it out with and without to see how it goes. I’m adding a bunch of weight in the build so I’m curious to see if the adjustable shocks and stiffer springs are enough by themselves, or do I still need the sway bar.

There was some very sweet builds in this line up as to be expected once someone gets to the point of true LT. Keep up the great articles.

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Welcome to Dirt King!

Long Travel Kit

 Description

The Dirt King long travel kit was developed to drastically improve the vehicles off-road handling without compromising its day to day driving characteristics. This suspension system allows for 13.5” of travel and accepts up to a 35” tire. The kit is compatible with 2WD models and 4WD models along with the purchase of extended axle shafts. Our upper and lower arms are designed with 1” stainless steel uniballs for the outer pivots instead of ball joints for strength and increased articulation. Compared to the competition we’ve gained several inches of ground clearance by mounting the lower arms in the factory location instead of below it. This kit is CAD designed, thoroughly tested, and 100% made in America resulting in a product we’re proud to put our name on!

 Specifications

• Wheel Travel: 13.5”
• Amount of Lift: 0-4”
• Track Width: 3.5” wider per side
• Maximum Tire Size: 35”
• Maximum Backspacing: 4.75”
• Minimum Rim Size: 16”
• Coil over Shock Size: 2.5” x 8” 
• Bypass Shock Size: 2.5” x 8” 
• Bump Stop Size: 2.0” x 2.0”

4WD To achieve the full amount of travel on 4WD models you must install the 1” diff drop kit and machine the inner CV’s for more articulation. We offer several services for machining CV’s and complete axle assembly.

Shocks For the best performance and to achieve the full amount of travel you must purchase our spec built shocks or have them custom built based on our coil over spec sheet. You may also use Tacoma OEM replacement coil overs (King, Fox, Icon) with 600lb springs and 1.5” wide lower eyelet spacers with ½” mounting holes. These shocks will work but limit the amount of wheel travel. The OEM replacement coil overs include reservoir mounts that may not be compatible with our double shear kit option. Our long travel kit is also tabbed to accommodate bypass shocks.  The bypass shocks will allow for superior suspension dampening and tunability. To mount the bypasses we offer a weld on bypass shock hoop kit (DK-811910) that can be purchased separately. The bypass shock hoop kit requires welding and modifications to the frame. For extreme off-roading the kit has the ability to accept bump stops along with the coil overs and bypasses. The use of bump stops will alsorequire welding and modifications to the frame.

Wheel Travel When shopping long travel kits many consumers tend to focus just on travel numbers. This is the reason many companies claim inaccurate numbers or don’t disclose the amount of work involved to achieve these numbers. Our goal is to build a suspension system with the highest amount of wheel travel without requiring major modifications to the vehicle or compromising its overall drivability.

Tire Info When using 35” tires with this kit modifications to the wheel well will need to be made. The firewall pinch weld will need to be folded over and front cab mount needs to be shaved to avoid contact while turning. The upper wheel well will also need to be modified to avoid contact at full bump.   

 What's Included

• Boxed plate upper control arms
• Boxed plate lower control arms
• 8" quad wrapped limit straps
• Weld on adjustable limit strap mounts
• 17-4 stainless steel misalignment spacers
• 17-4 stainless steel tie rod extensions
• DOT approved extended brake lines 
• Grade 8 mounting hardware
• Zinc plated bushing washers 
• Bump stop spacers
• Bolt on application, minimal modifications required
• Utilizes American made FK bearings
• 4130 chromoly uniball cups
• Choice of  ¾” heims or poly bushings for the UCA’s
• Delrin bushings for the LCA’s
• Zinc plated inner bushing sleeves
• Grease fittings for easy servicing             
• 3/16" and 1/8” boxed plate construction
• Internally ribbed with extrusions for weight reduction
• Bump stop plating
• Limit strap tabbing
• Bypass Tabbing

  Compatibility

2005-2023 Toyota Tacoma 2WD / 4WD * Please contact us if you plan on installing this kit with lift spindles or a bracket lift. * Front fiberglass required.

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Please view our shipping policy, exchange policy, and disclaimer information for details. If you would like more information or have any questions regarding our products,  feel free to contact us for assistance by visiting our contact page. 

Shipping & Delivery Dirt King ships their products within the United States and Internationally. Most products ship via UPS or USPS. Orders that exceed $500 require a signature confirmation. On bulk orders contact Dirt King for a freight quote. The customer is responsible for import taxes and fees on international shipments.

Damaged or Missing Parts In an instance where you receive a damaged package a claim must be made with Dirt King. The claim can be submitted by sending an email to [email protected] containing photos of the damaged packages and damaged products. The email must also include your order number as well. Do not discard any of the original packaging or try installing the products.

While every precaution is taken there could be a case where you are missing parts. If this happens please send an email to [email protected] with your order number, list of missing parts, photo of the package or packages, and a photo of the quality control tag located on the back of the box.

If the shipping carrier losses your package please contact Dirt King. A claim will be filled with the shipping carrier. Unfortunately, we do not have much control over this situation and must wait for the carrier to process the claim.

Freight Shipping The customer must contact Dirt King to arrange for freight shipping. Dirt King will palletize the order and the customer can deal directly with the freight carrier if preferred. The shipment can be delivered to a home or business. The customer must be present for the delivery to inspect and sign for the package. Before signing confirm that you received all items listed on the packing slip and nothing is damaged. If you receive damaged parts or are missing parts leave a note on the bill of landing and sign it. Make sure the driver is aware of the situation and signs your copy of the bill of landing with the noted damages or missing parts. Once you have taken possession of the package file a claim with Dirt King by sending an email to [email protected]. Please include your order number, copy of your bill of landing, and photos of the damaged items or list of missing parts. Do not discard any of the original packaging or try installing the products. Dirt King will do everything possible to resolve the issue as quickly as possible.

• Returns are only accepted within 30 days.
• Product must have been purchased from us and not a dealer.
• A 3% processing fee is deducted from all refunds.
• On shipped orders   a 7% restocking fee and a  3% processing fee is deducted from all refunds.
• Products such as bumpers, hitches, and bed cages that have optional powder coat added are subject to a 7% restocking fee and a 3% processing fee. If the order is canceled before the product is powder coated then the 7% restocking fee can be waived.
• On shipped orders we are not responsible for return shipping or refunding the original shipping amount.
• Parts must be returned in the original package and condition as they were sent.
• No returns on items that have been damaged or installed.
• Refund will be issued once the parts have been received and inspected.
• Custom products are non refundable.
• Crypto orders will be refunded the same coin amount that was paid originally.

All products sold or manufactured by Dirt King are intended for off-road use only. Our products are strictly engineered and tested and are not to be modified from their original design in any way. Welding should always be done at a qualified and certified facility only. Customer assumes all liability in assuring that parts are installed correctly, maintained, and not modified or altered in any way. Dirt King is not responsible or liable for any accidents, injuries, or deaths that may occur from the use of any products offered. Suspension modifications may change the dynamics and stability characteristics of the vehicle. Ensuring prompt wheel alignment and ADAS recalibration after suspension modifications is critical and the sole responsibility of the customer.

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Overland Adventures and Off-Road

Metal tech’s rear long travel review.

The first big advancement in long travel for the Toyota FJ Cruiser  and 4-Runner came  in 2008 from Total Chaos taking the front end from eight inches to 12 inches of travel with their front 2″ long travel kit .  This step forward provided a big improvement to the front IFS but left the rear-end unattended.

Realizing the need for balance in off-road suspension performance, Metal Tech 4×4 introduced their rear long travel and has created the next evolution in FJ Cruiser and 4-Runner suspension. Eleven and half inches of rear shock travel translating into 27 inches of wheel travel to help maintain four points of contact with the ground as you motor over all sorts of terrain.

To achieve this impressive range of motion, Metal Tech’s long travel kit includes offset lower links that eliminate binding, bump stop relocaters, longer stainless break-lines and taller two stage progressive springs.  Metal Tech has teamed with Icon to create longer rear shocks specifically designed to take advantage of the new geometry.

• Standard long travel springs have a free standing 19 1/4″ spring height that maintains a 2″ lift in the rear.  The bottom half the coil is rated at 250lbs of spring rate and the upper portion is at 105lbs of spring rate.
• Expedition rated long travel springs have 3″ of rear lift. The bottom half of the coil is rated at 300lbs of spring rate and the upper portion is rated at 140lbs of spring rate to maintain ride height with the heavier loads associated with overland expeditions.

Using a progressive spring combination allows the spring to stay in it’s compressed position at ride height and expand out to it’s full free height on down travel keeping the wheels in contact with the ground.

But how does all this spring rating translate into seat of the pants performance? We tested both Metal Tech spring types and found some very interesting results.

Full disclosure here : we run the Metal Tech 3-link setup with their lower links, springs, bump stops, extended bake line and Sway-A-Way 2 1/2″, remote reserve, 12″ travel, triple by-pass shocks on our setup.  Travel numbers are for a 4-link set up and some of the test were using Metal Tech’s FJC running a 4-link set up and their long travel kit.  Both springs were tested on our rig to provide same/same comparison over a longer duration to see the difference in ride comfort, sag and spring response. We also left the bypass shocks at the same setting for all the spring tests.

The expedition long travel springs are new…  in fact we were the first to grab a pair off the rack and test them.  These springs were designed to support the heavier loads of overland expeditions without sagging and giving up ride height (translate ride height into upward wheel travel).  In order to run the new expedition long travel springs through their paces we piled all the gear needed to be self sufficient for six days on the famed Rubicon Trail … and it was a lot of gear. On the big Rubicon rocks of Little Sluice , Big Sluice and Cadillac Hill the expedition springs carried the weight and still granted the rear axle full travel along the length of its arc allowing the wheels to remain in contact with the granite as we crawled up and over obstacles.  On all the obstacles the springs kept the rig stable, never feeling sloppy or sagging under the weight of all the camping gear, food, tools, spare parts, camera gear and gallons of water and fuel.

When we first upgraded the front end to the Total Chaos long travel we had one complaint…  the rear end just could not keep up as we took our rig through the Baja , Rubicon (the first time back in 09) and the backcountry discovery routes of Utah and Washington .  Now with the Metal Tech long travel and their choice of springs we have the balance we’ve been looking for as we travel the road less traveled.

If your looking for an upgrade that will provide you with gobs of rear travel and you want to be able to carry all the gear you need to be self sufficient on long expedition in a Toyota 4-Runner or FJ Cruiser then give Metal Tech 4×4 a call to talk about their six different rear long travel kit options.

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Rocksport RED Performance Long Travel Shock Absorbers by MetalCloak, For JK Wrangler Rear, With 2.5”-4.5” Lift, Engineered For a Fantastic Ride On and Off-Road, Easy Installation, Made in the USA

Purchase options and add-ons, about this item.

• CUSTOM DESIGNED: JK Wrangler Rocksport RED Long Travel Shocks are custom designed and distributed only by Metacloak. These trail proven, Twin Tube Shocks have proprietary valving tuned specifically to Metalcloak's exacting standards.
• PROVIDE A FANTASTIC RIDE: Rocksport RED Long Travel Shocks have been engineered to work in unison with Metalcloak's True Dual-Rate Coils. Properly valved and tested by the engineers at Metalcloak, Rocksport shocks provide a fantastic ride on and off-raod with a comfortable yet stable compression and rebound cycle with lots of travel.
• FEATURES INCLUDE: Oversized 18mm chrome shafts, double welded bushing eyes, natural rubber mount bushings, nitrogen rubber mount bushings, nitrogen gas charged to resist fading, and protect with shaft length stone guard.
• ROCKSPORT RED SHOCK LENGTH: Extended length is 27.8” and collapsed length is 16.8”.
• REFINED COMPRESSION AND DAMPENING: Metalcloak has refined the Rocksport RED LT Shocks compression and dampening to provide stable, yet compliant manners for daily driving and also in situations where Long Travel articulation is needed to keep the tires planted on the ground.
• LIFETIME CUSTOMER SERVICE: Metacloak provides lifetime customer service and support. If you have any problem whatsoever with your product, simply contact us and we will find a way to make it right.

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Whether it's our Game-Changing approach to Product Design, our Lifetime Customer Care policy, or our Patented Game-Changing Suspension Technology, everything we do is only worth doing if we can not only do it better, but significantly different then what others expect. We simply don't settle.

Certified Made in the USA and FMVSS126 Compliant, Metalcloak is Designed, Engineered and Proven to be the best quality product for your Rig.

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Our history....

Originally founded in 2006, as Rev111, we took the Jeeping community by storm with the first and only Arched Tube Fender for the Jeep TJ, achieving High-Line clearance without cutting your stock fenders or hood. Changing our name to MetalCloak in January 2009, we expanded our body armor product line across multiple platforms from CJ-5 to the JK.

In 2010 we entered the Suspension market with the revolutionary 6Pak Shock System and the Duroflex Joint, the first high-misalignment vibration dampening joint.

Where are Your Products Made?

We are a Certified Made in the USA Company.

Product Description

Designed. Engineered. Proven.

At Metalcloak, we don't just hack together a product or two... our team of engineers tackle every project with a long term vision in mind... we don't try to be first to market... we just want to be the best at developing products that meet your needs and exceed your expectations.

Our Philosophy...

At MetalCloak we are a Systems-Based Company . Our philosophy is to develop systems that work incredibly well together, designing every individual part to function and improve that system.

From Computer Aided Design (CAD) of every part, to CNC manufacturing processes, we set a high standard of quality control to ensure that every product will fit your rig the right way every time!

And, of course, MetalCloak is a Certified Made in the USA company.

Our Greatest Asset... You!

Our greatest asset is you, our customer. If we can't make you happy, we have no reason to be in business.

If there is EVER a problem you experience with our products or service, we are here to correct it right away! And we will ask lots of questions so we can ensure this never happens again.

What's In The Kit?

• RockSport Long Travel Shocks, Pair

RockSport Long Travel Shocks

It’s not just a shock, it is a piece in a tuned system. This is not a typical bolt on shock. RockSport shocks are valved and specifically tuned to work with MetalCloak True Dual-Rate Coils.

MetalCloak has refined the RockSport LT Shocks compression and dampening to provide stable, yet compliant manners for daily driving and also in situations where Long Travel articulation is needed to keep the tires planted on the ground.

RockSport Shock Length:

• Extended Length: 27.8"
• Collapsed Length: 16.8"

Made in USA

Not an imported product, 100% in house Engineered, Designed, and CNC Manufactured right in our Northern California 70,000 Sq Ft plant and warehouse.

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3rd Gen 4Runner Long Travel Suspension

• Regular price $2,849.00

At 4.5” wider per side and 1” forward for extra firewall clearance, this kit allows up to 15” of useable wheel travel. Weak upper balljoints are replaced by 1” FK uniballs, and stock rubber bushings are replaced by durable polyurethane or optional heims for alignment adjustability.

For 4WD kits, we build custom CV axles with heat treated 300m axle shafts and machined / rebuilt / rebooted OEM CV joints for added articulation and strength. Axles come completely assembled and ready to bolt on.

Kit includes: boxed upper and lower control arms with Energy poly bushings, tie rod extensions, extended steel braided brake lines (replaces hard and soft sections of stock lines), spindle to upper uniball adapters, and custom coilover top brackets. Arms come raw or powdercoated gunmetal grey.  Adjustable upper arms equipped with FK heims available as an option.

*Custom coilovers can be added to your order, message or email us for details!*

Rock crawling, trail running or prerunning a race course, this suspension does it all! 

Fits 6 lug trucks only!

8-12 week lead time, depending on options, order volume and availability of materials. Built to order, all sales final.

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Long Travel rear Shocks

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hey guys need opinions I have the Toytec superflex rear springs and wasn't happy with the ride height so went with the 1.5 rubber boot spacers and I'm not thrilled with the handling mainly or ride quality now ...so now highly considering the Metal Tech MT-GSJ-4052 Next Gens rear springs (I am doing a aftermarket rear bumper at some point though) its more for looks via running 35x12.5x18 DuraTracs and like the higher stance...so looking for Long Travel shocks also via the Blistiens 5100 i don't thing will cut it with the Metal Tech springs ? so considering this setup per Metal Tech , any opinions? was looking at the Radflo FJ Cruiser/4Runner Metal Tech Long Travel Rear Shocks also but very pricey at $285.00 each ouch lol Metal Tech FJ Cruiser/4Runner Rear Long Travel Coil Springs Heavy $ 279.95 x 1 $ 279.95 Metal Tech FJ Cruiser/4Runner 3" Rear Bump Stop Drop (Req'd for Long Travel) $ 79.95 x 1 $ 79.95 ICON FJ Cruiser/4Runner Metal Tech 4x4 Rear Long Travel ICON VS 2.0 Shocks $ 159.95 x 2 $ 319.90  

I'd get the Icon 2.0 spec'd to Metaltech long travel. The ride was really good when I had their regular travel version and they're pretty dang cheap! The 5100's supposedly are good for a 2" lift I believe and will certainly work for a while on the MT LT springs especially if you stay on the street. But the Icons are a decent upgrade from the Bilsteins too.  

Yeah rather do it right and do the long travel shocks at the same time Iconic ... I know the Radflo are great shocks but pricey the Icons are still rebuildable and more in my price range plus I’m not a off roader so they should more than fit my needs  

Am I reading this correct ? You had the Toytec springs And they did not give enough lift so you added 1 1/2 spacers on top of those ? And now you want long travel just for appearance . You are planning on 35s or you already have 35s ? What are you running in the front ? I myself just installed a set of the toytec / Radflo. 2.5 And yes pricey but I think they are worth it.  

Firemedic831 said: Am I reading this correct ? You had the Toytec springs And they did not give enough lift so you added 1 1/2 spacers on top of those ? correct And now you want long travel just for appearance . You are planning on 35s or you already have 35s ? What are you running in the front ? I myself just installed a set of the toytec / Radflo. 2.5 And yes pricey but I think they are worth it. Click to expand...

Iconic are the bumper stops totally nessecery? Metal Tech FJ Cruiser/4Runner Rear Long Travel Coil Springs Heavy $ 279.95 x 1 $ 279.95 Metal Tech FJ Cruiser/4Runner 3" Rear Bump Stop Drop (Req'd for Long Travel) $ 79.95 x 1 $ 79.95 ICON FJ Cruiser/4Runner Metal Tech 4x4 Rear Long Travel ICON VS 2.0 Shocks $ 159.95 x 2 $ 319.90 Subtotal Shipping Total $ 679.80 Select Shipping at Checkout $ 679.80  

I've had experience with (2) versions of the Metal Tech Long Travel Rear so here's my take: Version 1: - Metal Tech Medium LT springs - ICON 2.0 LT shocks - Metal Tech Offset Lower Links = Not mandatory if you don't plan on fully flexing the rear... your OEM links will hit the axle before full droop is acheived - Metal Tech Extended Brake Lines = Highly recommend for any FJ just so you can sag the rear more when doing maintenance. Easy swap and good insurance for $60. - Metal Tech Bump Stop Extensions = YES, these are mandatory because the shock will bottom out before the bump stop is reached. Metal Tech LT shock bodies are longer than stock. Plus, you'll need/want the extended bump stops to keep the 35" tire out of the fender well for rubbing. - Remove rear sway bar = Not mandatory but again if you want the performance of LT then it needs to come off. The medium version of the rear springs are fantastic in terms of ride quality and height. The 2.0 shocks leave some performance on the table but they are very affordable and the valving is good. I think you'd be happy with the mediums but if you want more ride height and only a small sacrifice in ride quality then keep reading... Version 2: *read this for a full write up* = MetalTech Spring Supplier (posts #10 and #16 for details) - Metal Tech NextGen (aka Heavy) LT springs - ICON 2.5 w/ CDCV LT shocks - Metal Tech Offset Lower Links = Not mandatory if you don't plan on fully flexing the rear... your OEM links will hit the axle before full droop is acheived - Metal Tech Extended Brake Lines = Highly recommend for any FJ just so you can sag the rear more when doing maintenance. Easy swap and good insurance for $60. - Metal Tech Bump Stop Extensions = YES, these are mandatory because the shock will bottom out before the bump stop is reached. Metal Tech LT shock bodies are longer than stock. Plus, you'll need/want the extended bump stops to keep the 35" tire out of the fender well for rubbing. - Remove rear sway bar = Not mandatory but again if you want the performance of LT then it needs to come off. Now this is what my truck currently runs. The NextGen springs are TALL. See post #10 in the link above. If you want maximum height in the rear this is your spring. The ride quality is still very good but they are a 300lb bottom coil vs a 250lb bottom coil on the mediums. The ICON 2.5 w/ CDCV shocks are fantastic and you can dial in the performance to a tee. Running no rear sway bar with 2.5 shocks is barely noticeable. In summary, my advice is to purchase the MT LT STAGE 2 kit with ICON 2.0s ($679 msrp) at a minimum. You can upgrade the lower links later and make your own decision regarding the sway bar. This kit will ensure that you've started the proper foundation for a LT rear kit and your suspension will perform as expected. If you decide to skip things like the bump stops and extended brake lines to save ~$120 you'll start breaking things and cost yourself more in the long run. Call MT to discuss your options between Medium and Heavy springs and if you can wait until Black Friday 2018, you'll save around 20% and free shipping. In the pics below you can see how well the kit droops in the rear. The front sway bar needs to be removed to make the truck more balanced in flex from front to rear. In the rear though, there's room for 35's to stuff. Again, all the components in the rear are essentially maxed out in terms of performance and there's no binding or rubbing issues because the kit is well thought out by MT.  

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darkhorse i replied to the thread you linked ...thanks didn't see your thread before i started this one but going with the Next Gen GSJ-4052 seem the better option ...brake lines i didn't think about?  

I have 2.5 shocks and no rear sway and it’s fine  

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Follow on facebook:, tractive offering x-treme pro ‘long-travel’ suspension for tenere 700, a top-of-the-line suspension kit for those that want next-level off-road performance..

Since its release in 2019 in Europe and the arrival in the US in 2021, there’s no question the Yamaha Tenere 700 has become one of the most popular and sought out adventure bikes on the market. With its rally-inspired design, it hits a sweet spot in power, performance, simplicity, and price that’s hard to beat. But despite all the high points, a top drawback often reported by owners is its suspension.

While the stock KYB suspension is decently capable out of the box for average trails, it has its limits in technical off-road terrain, especially in the hands of a skilled rider. Soft springs and limited travel of 8.3 inches (210mm) in front and 7.9 inches (200mm) in the rear mean you’re likely to start bottoming out on the larger bumps at faster speeds, which gets worse when loaded up for travel. The stock damping adjusters can take you only so far in tuning out negative characteristics and the limited ground clearance leads to early skid plate scraping in rough terrain.

Compared to other off road-focused adventure bikes in the class like the KTM 890 Adventure R, Tuareg 660 and Tiger 900 Rally Pro, it’s down about an inch on the suspension travel specs. Even a casual off-roader like the V-Strom 800DE offers more.

Few Adventure Bikes seem more deserving of a suspension upgrade than the T7 and we’ve all seen the upper end of the model’s potential on full display in the talented hands of Pol Tarres, who uses TracTive suspension components on his custom-built bikes . 

For those owners who want to unleash their own potential on the trail, TracTive Suspension has the killer T7 mod in the form of the X-Treme Pro (+25mm) Long Travel kit . The kit not only increases suspension travel and ground clearance by roughly an inch front and rear, but also upgrades the quality of the suspension with race-level componentry for improved stability, control and confidence on the trail.

Front Suspension Upgrade

Ever felt your T7 fork clunk on a big rock or deep rut? That’s exactly what the TracTive front suspension upgrade is designed to fix. The X-Treme Pro (+25mm) Long Travel front cartridge kit is a drop-in upgrade to the existing 43mm Tenere 700 fork that doesn’t require any special mods to install. Not only does it increase suspension travel on the fork to 9.3 inches, it also offers rebound damping on one leg and compression on the other with convenient hand-adjustable dials right on top. No more getting down under the bike with a screwdriver to change compression damping settings at the bottom of the fork. The fork kit also adds preload adjustment to the front, which is useful in setting up the optimal attitude of the bike.

The TracTive Tenere 700 fork kit utilizes an advanced closed-cartridge system that separates the oil from the air in a closed chamber pressurized with nitrogen gas. With the oil under pressure, it won’t foam or cavitate when heat builds up during aggressive riding like it can with a standard open-cartridge fork. Air bubbling in your fork oil causes a reduction in damping performance and doesn’t keep the internals well lubricated either. The main benefit is smooth and consistent performance that won’t taper off, along with more-precise damping adjustments.

Damping and bump absorption is further improved with the use of a large 35mm cartridge piston, one of the biggest among aftermarket suspension suppliers. This big piston facilitates high oil flow transfer during compression and rebound for maximum damping control — the more oil you can transfer, the more you can slow down fork movement. And when you’re really getting down to the end of your suspension travel during a big impact, there’s a hydraulic end stop waiting in reserve to help prevent any hard bottoming. (MSRP: $1,695)

Rear Suspension Upgrade

Just getting the stock Tenere 700 airborne a few inches off the ground can sometimes lead to bottoming out the rear suspension, especially if you’re a rider in the 200+ pound range. To combat this, TracTive swaps the stock shock for a much beefier unit that features a CNC-machined 6082 T6 aluminum housing with a hardened 42CRMo4 piston rod attached to a stout 46mm damping piston, along with high-strength bearings and stainless-steel bushings.

Like the fork kit the TracTive X-Treme Pro (+25mm) Long Travel rear shock increases the travel of the suspension, raising it to 8.9 inches in the rear. Damping is provided through high-flow oil channels, low-friction seals, an off-road specific shim stack, and an external reservoir containing significantly more oil and cooling surface than the stock shock. This ensures predictable, stable, fade-free performance in the rough stuff. 

In addition to rebound damping adjustability, the shock features separate high- and low-speed compression damping adjusters to provide more precise tuning of the rear suspension’s behavior for both quick hits and slower undulations on the trail. All damping adjustments are performed using convenient clickers for quick changes on the fly, instead of tools like the stocker. The preload adjuster also has a greater range of adjustment to support higher loads that may occur during travel, especially two-up. In addition, the shock can be purchased with or without a hydraulic ‘hand dial’ preload adjuster (HPA) that enables quick and easy preload adjustments for varying loads without tools.

If the longer travel and more-effective damping aren’t enough to counter a particularly big hit, the TracTive X-Treme Pro shock is equipped with a Position Dependent Damping System (PDSII) as a final defense against hard bottoming. The PDSII is a secondary damping piston mounted on top of the main damping piston. When a big hit occurs, this second damping piston enters a cup at the end of the compression stroke that creates an additional damping force. It’s like a high-tech bump stop that effectively absorbs and dissipates energy in the final phase of compression, when needed. Minimizing the number of big impacts during long off-road rides not only improves comfort and safety but also reduces wear and tear on the bike and body. (MSRP: $1,395)

Custom-Tuned Suspension

While the installation of both the fork kit and replacement shock can be done by anyone with basic mechanical skills, the technical fine-tuning work is performed at the suspension shop. Upon purchase, you’ll fill out a form that details exactly how your suspension gets configured before your products are shipped out. Both the X-Treme Pro fork kit and replacement shock get custom springs and application-specific tuning based on the rider’s weight and intended usage, whether your focus is racing, overlanding, two-up touring, or technical trail exploring. 

If you’re not the long-legged type and want to keep the stock T7 ride height you can also opt for the standard height X-Treme Pro fork and shock upgrade kit, instead of the ‘Long Travel’ option. You still get all the benefits of a premium aftermarket suspension with technology on par with what top-level racers are using, like the improved damping performance and hard bottoming resistance. TracTive also has a low suspension X-Treme fork and shock kit that reduces suspension travel by about 0.8 inches (-20mm) for those that want to drop the seat height even more.

All TracTive products are fully serviceable and include a 2-year warranty. Pricing for the X-Treme Pro Long Travel shock starts at $1,395 and $1,695 for the fork kit. Not a bad investment considering that after upgrading a new Tenere 700 you’d still have a few thousand dollars in your pocket for additional mods when compared to purchasing a KTM 890 Adventure R, as well as a roughly 15-pound lighter machine with higher-spec suspension.

So if you are looking to upgrade your beloved T7 with the suspension Yamaha should have put on it from the factory (even better in fact), TracTive’s X-Treme Pro kits are definitely worth a look.The kit is also a compatible upgrade for the Tenere 700 World Raid and Extreme models for those who live overseas. Check out the TracTive website where you can see the range of options for the Tenere 700 and search local suspension shops that carry their products.

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Author: Rob Dabney

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Versys-X 300 Off Road Capable Conversion

Discussion in ' Some Assembly Required ' started by pjm204 , Dec 29, 2021 .

pjm204 Long timer

This past August my 120,000+ mile Vstrom that had faithfully carried me through over a dozen countries broke down. While that issue has since resolved itself, it sparked the thought that it might not be the worst idea to get something newer. I wanted something lighter, nimbler, but still capable of doing it all. Coming from a vstrom, I also wanted it to be reliable and economical. My dream bike was a P-Twin with 10+ inches of ground clearance, 45+ hp, good suspension, longish service intervals, and under 350 pounds. My dream bike didn't seem to exist so the search began for a bike to start with. In the past I'd done a Ninja 650 dirt bike and my vstrom has long travel suspension, so I decided I'd find something to modify. Ultimately my search landed me on the Versys X 300. I found one for what seemed like a good deal and snapped it up. The plan: 1. Increase ground clearance 2. Improve suspension 3. Add protection 4. Drop weight Here is what I've come up with so far: I accomplished goals 1 & 2 with suspension upgrades. At the front I've slid a complete second gen KLR 650 front end into the Versys triples. At the back I've added a custom YSS shock with 1" of additional length. For protection, I've added Givi crash bars, a T-Rex skid plate, and EE handguards. In this picture I have a temporary shock installed (1997 Ninja 900) to test the proof of concept. This shock is 25mm longer than the stocker. KLR forks, wheel, brake caliper, fork brace, and supermoto fender. The fork brace is 100% necessary to add stiffness and give a fender mounting location. Custom YSS 345mm shock with piggyback reservoir. Just received today. Chain roller added to take up slack (still needs some final touches and painting) The bike now has 11" of ground clearance (stock is 7"), a 21" front wheel, better suspension, and good protection. Things I'd still like to do: 1. Drop some weight. So far I've replaced the stock muffler with a fake Akro and removed the rear fender. 2. Extend the side stand. Now that I have the ride height sorted out this will be the next thing I do. 3. Reroute the exhaust for even more clearance and modify the skid plate to tuck closer to the engine. 4. Possibly relace the rear wheel to an 18" (probably won't end up doing this) 5. More power. Just thought I'd share this build. I'll try and get some better pictures soon.

sruss67 Long timer

Nicely done, looks like you are getting some good testing time on the new setup. I am amazed that there are fewer lightish 400-450cc adv bikes available from manufacturers, sure seems to be a calling for them the world over.

sruss67 said: ↑ Nicely done, looks like you are getting some good testing time on the new setup. I am amazed that there are fewer lightish 400-450cc adv bikes available from manufacturers, sure seems to be a calling for them the world over. Click to expand...

Scrivens Long timer

I've looked at the 300 a few times after owning a Versys 1000 for 3 years and over 100K. The V1 was a great bike, but too top-heavy on bad dirt roads and I've ridden the naked Z300 often enough to appreciate that engine. Interested to see how you go with this one.

Scrivens said: ↑ I've looked at the 300 a few times after owning a Versys 1000 for 3 years and over 100K. The V1 was a great bike, but too top-heavy on bad dirt roads and I've ridden the naked Z300 often enough to appreciate that engine. Interested to see how you go with this one. Click to expand...

Salsa Long timer

Why has no one mentioned teh Ninja 400??? Don

mouthfulloflake Not afraid

Nice. I will assume that the rear X300 stock wheel is a 17"? what options ( other than 3M tape) to make the bike tubeless, some cast wheels that would fit maybe? Your desires for the bike are similar to mine, I would simply add " tubeless" for me to be closer to perfectly satisfied.

Salsa said: ↑ Why has no one mentioned teh Ninja 400??? Don Click to expand...

ridewestKTM Long timer

pjm: Cool stuff. 2 questions; are you watching the chain clearance at the swing arm? Also didn't you lose a bunch of trail using the klr forks (which are a leading axle) in the Versys triple clamps (which is designed for straight legs)? You might be much better off using the KLR triple clamps. Raising the front more than the rear, which you may have done, would of course help.

Oh a 3rd question. Did you forgo a front ABS sensor - or does your bike not have ABS? BTW it looks like the speedo drive hub is the same as my project. If I come up with a better seal setup want me to share? I find the drag a bit much.

ridewestKTM said: ↑ pjm: Cool stuff. 2 questions; are you watching the chain clearance at the swing arm? Also didn't you lose a bunch of trail using the klr forks (which are a leading axle) in the Versys triple clamps (which is designed for straight legs)? You might be much better off using the KLR triple clamps. Raising the front more than the rear, which you may have done, would of course help. Click to expand...

pjm: I'll do some research and see if a spedo hub replacement for both of our bikes is possible. No promises tho. I assume the wheel and hub are the same KLR parts ...what yr? Your hub does look exactly like mine. Other questions: did you use the KLR or the Versys master cylinder? You went with one inch more shock length or travel or both? So what did you get for final travel on rear? On forks; the KLR is what 8" travel? and did you keep all of it? Regarding trail: I did a couple quick calc's the 21" wheel buys you about .25 in more trail and if you raise the front more than the back you'll get about .25 in of trail per inch of difference in height. The problem is the Versys straight legs' triple clamps would have more offset than the KLR pushing the axle forward thusly reducing trail. (so right there you loose about 1.3 in of trail) Also; as I recall the KLR frame has more rake than the Versys so it's triple clamps would have even less offset. (there is a fix but that's for later). BTW; Murphy huh? I'm a Idaho guy too. I lived in Boise, Caldwell, Blackfoot, Pocatello, Idaho Falls, and Moscow.

ridewestKTM said: ↑ pjm: I'll do some research and see if a spedo hub replacement for both of our bikes is possible. No promises tho. I assume the wheel and hub are the same KLR parts ...what yr? Your hub does look exactly like mine. Other questions: did you use the KLR or the Versys master cylinder? You went with one inch more shock length or travel or both? So what did you get for final travel on rear? On forks; the KLR is what 8" travel? and did you keep all of it? Regarding trail: I did a couple quick calc's the 21" wheel buys you about .25 in more trail and if you raise the front more than the back you'll get about .25 in of trail per inch of difference in height. The problem is the Versys straight legs' triple clamps would have more offset than the KLR pushing the axle forward thusly reducing trail. (so right there you loose about 1.3 in of trail) Also; as I recall the KLR frame has more rake than the Versys so it's triple clamps would have even less offset. (there is a fix but that's for later). BTW; Murphy huh? I'm a Idaho guy too. I lived in Boise, Caldwell, Blackfoot, Pocatello, Idaho Falls, and Moscow. Click to expand...

ex250mike Long timer

If you are needing a new front wheel you can probably find something lighter. Those KLR wheels are heavy. Also, I'd throw a DDC or similar in the forks, stock KLR forks aren't great.

ex250mike said: ↑ If you are needing a new front wheel you can probably find something lighter. Those KLR wheels are heavy. Also, I'd throw a DDC or similar in the forks, stock KLR forks aren't great. Click to expand...

pjm: regarding removing the spedo hub. I did some followup and our hubs have different part numbers so its unknown if I can directly help. Here is a picture of my hub. Note the notches for the spedo drive to engage: These make it difficult to create a water tight seal. I proceeded anyway and made an adapter. When I acquire a seal I plan to RTV the zone near the outer race of the bearing to attempt a face seal. For now I made my own seal -it might keep out mice and small children . The versys uses a 24mm x 40mm seal. For my hub 40mm is too small to fit the hub and to big to make a ring. So I will find a 24 x 36 or so, and bore my adapter. So here's my assy. Let me know if you would like some help.

Attached Files:

P1040005.jpg.

ridewestKTM said: ↑ pjm: regarding removing the spedo hub. I did some followup and our hubs have different part numbers so its unknown if I can directly help. Here is a picture of my hub. View attachment 3375028 Note the notches for the spedo drive to engage: These make it difficult to create a water tight seal. I proceeded anyway and made an adapter. When I acquire a seal I plan to RTV the zone near the outer race of the bearing to attempt a face seal. For now I made my own seal -it might keep out mice and small children . The versys uses a 24mm x 40mm seal. For my hub 40mm is too small to fit the hub and to big to make a ring. So I will find a 24 x 36 or so, and bore my adapter. So here's my assy. Let me know if you would like some help. Click to expand...

Extended the kickstand last night. It's a piece of a strut from an old 1981 Rabbit Pickup I had. Each side slides into the tube about half an inch. I didn't take a picture of the finished product yet but it looks decent. I'm still figuring out Tig welding. One side looks really nice. The other looked pretty crappy so I ground it down before painting. My only concern is that the solid bar I used is pretty heavy. Hopefully the kickstand doesn't deploy inadvertantly. If that happens it should be pretty easy to secure it with a tether to the passenger peg.

If you have a drill press and good quality cobalt 10mm drill bits, drill half a dozen equi-distant holes in the sides. That will remove a fair bit of the weight and the solid plug should still be strong enough for the bike.

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Dobinsons Long travel front struts and rear shocks - 5th Gen T4R and FJC

Discussion in ' 4Runners ' started by Crikeymike , Nov 30, 2016 .

#1 Crikeymike [OP] ExitOffroad.com Vendor

Hey Guys, Mike Tomczyk here from Dobinsons. We have been working on a new set of struts and shocks for the 5th Gen 4Runner, that will also work on the FJ Cruiser too. We wanted a longer travel front strut to get the most out of the front with having a diff drop kit and UCA's installed, and be the correct length for a true 3" lift. 575mm is the maximum we can go, and we were able to get that out of our twin tube design. The compressed length is 435mm. Twin tubes have been great long lasting shocks for several decades, and we wanted to make sure people can afford them too. These were made with the same valving as our 2" struts, which are considered a comfort ride, front and rear. We also raised the seat height on the front (it's a fixed seat, not adjustable) from the standard 213mm to 226mm. That extra 13mm will give about 1" extra lift height, so this means that by running a 2" coil on these struts, you will reach 3" of lift. Although we'd love you to, you don't have to use our coils. The rear twin tubes are 432mm compressed and 730mm extended. For these, you will need some longer coils (we're making variable rate progressive 3" coils, due here in late January) so that they don't fall out (2" coils won't work), as well as 3" bump stop extensions (we're running Metal Tech), and a longer rear brake line. Our 4Runner (as shown in my build thread) has been running these longer lengths for 6+ months and the flex has been awesome. Have to point out here that these wouldn't work with a KDSS vehicle, since the rear sway bar would inhibit the flex so much. We're also working on our own UCA's, but R&D is painstakingly slow, so we're still a few months away from getting those complete. Once again, here is the summary and comparison. Dobinsons GS59-574 - for 3" lift - extended length front struts - 435/575mm GS59-575 - for 3" lift - extended length rear shocks - 432/730mm GS59-700 regular 2" lift front struts - 432/541mm GS59-701 regular 2" lift rear shocks - 362/583mm Old Man Emu (OME) 90010 regular 2" lift front struts - 413/543mm 60080 regular 2" lift rear shocks - 368/603mm I've been searching for a while for some good references to other brands and their length specs, but haven't found solid info. If anyone has it, please share and I will add it in.  

#2 Wishbone Runner Because 4R

Wow, that is a great price for RR rear shocks. Your specs are almost identical to the MT spec'd Icons, 17/28.5 if IIRC.  

#3 Crikeymike [OP] ExitOffroad.com Vendor

Yeah, we had a customer use our 6" rear 80 series Land Cruiser shocks because he was trying to max out the flex, and when we checked it out for ourselves, we found that the length was awesome. So that's where we got our length from. MT has been around 80's forever too, so maybe that's how they figured it out too. They were too firm though, so we played around with the valving to soften it up to give a comfort ride.  

#4 jowybyo Well-Known Member

@Crikeymike I need some help with picking the right suspension options for my 4Runner. It’s a 2020 SR5, no kdss. I’m looking for 2.5, but maybe I’ll want more in the future. This is what I have picked out so far: Front springs: C59-302 Front struts: IMS59-50574 Extended Travel Rear Springs: C59-327 Rear Shocks:IMS59-50575 Long Travel I don’t want it to ride like a dump truck. I plan to have rock sliders and maybe a low profile front bumper in the future. Also, I don’t plan on doing the full long travel rear, but plans change so I’d like to leave that option open. Hence why I have the long travel rear shocks, but it’s not clear to me if this set up is possible. Thanks for your help.  

#5 Crikeymike [OP] ExitOffroad.com Vendor

jowybyo said: ↑ @Crikeymike I need some help with picking the right suspension options for my 4Runner. It’s a 2020 SR5, no kdss. I’m looking for 2.5, but maybe I’ll want more in the future. This is what I have picked out so far: Front springs: C59-302 Front struts: IMS59-50574 Extended Travel Rear Springs: C59-327 Rear Shocks:IMS59-50575 Long Travel I don’t want it to ride like a dump truck. I plan to have rock sliders and maybe a low profile front bumper in the future. Also, I don’t plan on doing the full long travel rear, but plans change so I’d like to leave that option open. Hence why I have the long travel rear shocks, but it’s not clear to me if this set up is possible. Thanks for your help. Click to expand...

#6 jowybyo Well-Known Member

Crikeymike [OP] said: ↑ Hey bud The front will work well for you. The rear long travel shocks can only be run with long travel coils. The C59-327 coils would fall out at full droop, so you'd have to run the IMS59-50705 or 50701 shocks with those coils. The shortest height rear long travel coil is the C59-675V at 3" of lift with stock weight. Click to expand...

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NCM Moscow Plus

An e-mountain bike equipped with high-end brake and drive systems, the NCM M5 is for adventurous riders who want to hit the trails comfortable in the knowledge that their ebike can handle whatever they throw at it.

BIKE COMPONENTS

Frame:   Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork:   Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake:   F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel:   LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire:   Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle:   Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank:   Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur:   F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

ELECTRIC COMPONENTS

Battery:   Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Motor: Das-Kit, X15, Rear drive motor, 48V 500W, 32KM/H

Controller:   Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger:   Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display:   Das-Kit, C7

Net Weight (with battery): 26.0kg

Battery Weight: 4.0kg

Max Load (driver+bike): 125.0kg

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Our on-line store is open 24/7 and we ship Monday through Friday, excluding some holidays. Orders received for products without shipping restrictions on its product page will ship the same business day when received before 12:00 p.m. PST. Orders in high demand will have an estimated production time listed on its product page and will ship according to the date listed.

Customer Reviews

I like my mountain plus bike.The only problem i have, the third speed jump when i put some pressure . Its not an adjustement, everything is fine. The problem is with the freewheel .I did 70 kilometer with the bike and it attenuate the problem a little.

Bike assembled easy and ride good.

We purchased the NCM Moscow 29 E bike from Leon Cycles earlier this month. Communication was via 'Whatsapp' which I initially thought a little odd but worked out well. Once communication established the transaction was completed quickly and easily. We were able to arrange for the team to assemble the bike for us and we picked it up from the warehouse without an issue. We love the bike and are continuing to find new places to discover using it. Competitive price and great service.

Been riding the trails both road and mountain for a few months. Great power and no issues with components

Highlighted Features

Das-Kit 500W Motor

Ergonomic handlebar grips

Moscow 48V disc brake

Product specifications.

Frame: Alu. 6061, 26"*17.3 inches / Alu. 6061, 27.5"*18.9 inches / Alu. 6061, 29"*20.5 inches

Suspension Fork: Suntour, XCM-HLO-26/27.5/29, with hydraulic lock system

Brake: F/R: Tektro Hydraulic Disc Brakes,HD-E350

Freewheel: LY, 8 Speed, 11-32T, Silver

Tire: Schwalbe, Black Jack, 26"*2.1/Smart Sam, 27.5"*2.35/29"*2.35, Black

Saddle: Selle Royal, Lookin-A200UR, Black

Crank: Das-Kit, CM48,28/38/48T

Derailleur: F: Shimano, Altus, FD-M310, R: Shimano, Acera, RD-M360

Battery: Das-Kit, i5-4816, 48V 16AH, 768WH

Motor:  Das-Kit, X15, Rear drive motor, 48V 500W, 32KM/H

Controller: Das-Kit, CT-i5, 48V 18A

Charger: Das-Kit, 48V3A

Display: Das-Kit, C7

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Election latest: Farage urged to 'get a grip' of Reform UK amid racism row

John Healey, the shadow defence secretary, has urged Nigel Farage to "get a grip" of Reform UK after a racism row involving the prime minister. It comes as a Reform UK canvasser who used a racial slur against Rishi Sunak called himself a "total fool" and said he has learned his lesson.

Saturday 29 June 2024 11:10, UK

• General Election 2024

Please use Chrome browser for a more accessible video player

• Farage urged to 'get a grip' of Reform UK
• Reform canvasser in PM racism row says he was 'a total fool'
• Faultlines:   Eight-hour school runs and kids too hungry to sleep - the families caught up in housing 'social cleansing'
• Politics at Jack and Sam's : The last weekend
• Live reporting by Faith Ridler

Election essentials

• Manifesto pledges: Conservatives | Greens | Labour | Lib Dems | Plaid | Reform | SNP
• Trackers:  Who's leading polls? | Is PM keeping promises?
• Campaign Heritage:  Memorable moments from elections gone by
• Follow Sky's politics podcasts:  Electoral Dysfunction | Politics At Jack And Sam's
• Read more:  Who is standing down? | Key seats to watch | What counts as voter ID? | Check if your constituency is changing | Guide to election lingo
• How to watch election on Sky News

More from Sir Keir Starmer, who has hit out at "desperate" and "ridiculous" Conservative attempts to portray Labour as a risk to national security.

Speaking on a campaign visit, he told reporters he had been granted access to sensitive intelligence by the government so it was wrong for ministers to now claim he would be a danger.

He said: "I think this is desperate stuff from the Tories. We are the party that were the founder member of NATO. 

"If you go to Brussels and see the treaty there for NATO, it's a Labour secretary of state that signed that and our support for NATO has been unshakeable since then.

"On the nuclear deterrent, we're clear about the triple lock that we've put in place, not only the current deterrent but the future upgrades of that deterrent and the jobs that go with it.

"We have also - and this is why it is really desperate from the Tories - united with this government, the Tory government, on really important issues of national security. As a result of that, they have given me high-level sensitive briefings, so much do they trust us on national security. 

"I'm very glad that they have and I do thank the defence secretary for facilitating that, particularly during Ukraine when they gave us very regular, very sensitive briefings.

"To now turn around and make this ridiculous claim just shows how desperate they have become going into this election. It does them no good."

Labour leader Sir Keir Starmer has urged Nigel Farage to "set the tone" in his party after a racism row involving Prime Minister Rishi Sunak.

Speaking to Sky News at Aldershot Football Club in Hampshire, Sir Keir was asked what he believes attracts people to joining a party like Reform UK.

He said: "Leadership accepts the culture and the tone of an organisation, in this case a political party.

"It's no good Nigel Farage after the event saying that he doesn't agree with certain comments. 

"You set the culture, you set the tone. That's what leadership is about. 

"And that's why I set about changing the Labour Party four and a half years ago. And that took an act of leadership, steely determination, so that we could ensure the Labour Party going into this election is a changed Labour Party."

Sir Keir went on to insist that Mr Farage is "not a spectator" - but is the leader of Reform UK: "Leaders have to set the tone."

He added: "Leaders have to set the tone, set the standards and take the action so that people know in advance what is acceptable and what's not acceptable. 

"I think that's a very important part of leadership."

Pledges and promises are coming thick and fast from every party as the general election approaches. 

Struggling to keep up with who is saying what?

Here is a summary of where the main parties stand on major issues.

For a more in-depth look at what each party has pledged, scour our  manifesto checker ...

By David Blevins , senior Ireland correspondent

Fermanagh and South Tyrone is the UK's most westerly constituency and its most marginal.

Sinn Fein won the seat by just four votes in 2010 and by a mere 57 in 2019.

Witness to one of the worst terrorist atrocities - Enniskillen's Poppy Day bombing in 1987 - it has been scarred by the past.

But at Erne Wrestling Club in Irvinestown, they refuse to submit to those divisions.

Coach Alex Edgar said: "Activities like this bring everybody together and religion doesn't mean anything.

"It's all about having fun and at the end of the day, it gets them out of the house and keeps them fit and active."

One topic many people will be watching closely throughout the general election campaign is how parties are approaching LGBTQ+ issues.

Below, Sky News has wrapped up everything you need to know...

By Dr Hannah Bunting, Sky News elections analyst, and Joely Santa Cruz, data journalist

This week the party leaders made their final pleas to voters.

The Labour and Lib Dem leaders visited some of their most ambitious targets so far, while the prime minister took a scattergun approach, fighting for votes in even some of the safest of Tory seats.

This campaign is being fought on new electoral boundaries, with many constituencies undergoing significant changes since 2019.

For the purposes of this analysis, we use notional results based on  calculations by Colin Rallings and Michael Thrasher , honorary professors at the University of Exeter, which estimate the 2019 election seat results if they had taken place on the new constituency boundaries.

You can read more from our experts in the link below...

By Megan Harwood-Baynes , digital investigations reporter

Reform and Labour have bought up advertising on two major national news sites in a bid to sway voters in the remaining days before the general election.

When looking at MailOnline, Nigel Farage's stern face beams down from both the main banner and the left of the site.

Their manifesto - which have they been calling their "contract" with the public - is pasted down the side of the news website.

Meanwhile, Labour, perhaps in a bid to emulate 1992's "It's the Sun Wot Won It" front page, have pasted their advertising all over The Sun online.

With a countdown to 4 July, they also bemoan "14 years of Tory chaos".

Crucially, neither of these papers have openly endorsed a candidate, although a regular reader may be forgiven for not noticing this nuance.

In 1992, The Sun claimed credit for the victory of the Conservative Party, after openly campaigning to drive voters away from the then-Labour leader Neil Kinnock.

It is regularly cited as demonstrative of the influence the tabloid press could have over politicians and elections.

So far, the Daily Telegraph has come out in support of the Tories, while the Guardian, Daily Mirror, Economist, New Statesman and Daily Record have all backed the Labour Party.

The Times, The Sun and the Daily Mail have not endorsed anyone, and the Daily Star has taken the unusual (but perhaps unsurprising) approach of supporting Count Binface, labelling him the "most sane politician in the UK".

And while the Mirror has already backed Labour, and despite - at first glance - appearing to be plastered with advertising for the party, the red banners promising "change" are actually for coffee brand Nespresso.

Sky News has been looking at the advertising as part of the Online Election project - a Sky News initiative to cover how the campaign is playing out online, led by Tom Cheshire , Online Campaign correspondent .

We also found  one party has been dominating social media  - but it's not the one spending the most.

Reform UK has been dominating, with its page growing by more than 32,000 followers over the course of the campaign. 

Meanwhile, the Tories have only seen 596 new followers.

Sixteen of the top 20 most-loved posts were also from Mr Farage.

And for some Tories, the only brand has been seen as so bad, that  some have ditched it altogether .

John Healey, the shadow defence secretary, has urged Nigel Farage to "get a grip" of Reform UK after a racism row involving the prime minister.

It comes as a Reform UK canvasser who used a racial slur against Rishi Sunak has called himself a "total fool" and said he has learned his lesson.

Footage from an undercover Channel 4 reporter showed Reform campaigner Andrew Parker using a discriminatory term about the prime minister, as well as saying the army should "just shoot" migrants crossing the Channel.

Police are now assessing the comments to establish if an offence has been committed, while Mr Sunak  said the insult directed at him "hurts and it makes me angry".

Asked about this, Mr Healey said: "To some extent, I see him fuelling a row over this Channel 4 film to distract, really, from the fact that there are officials and there are candidates right at the heart of the Reform party, that have been responsible for racist, anti-gay, and other deeply offensive statements.

"And it's for Farage to take action on them. And in the end, the culture and the standards of any political party are set by the leader and Nigel Farage wants to be seen as a leader.

"He needs to get a grip of his own party and he's failing to do that at the moment."

He compared the situation to the "very similar challenge" faced by Sir Keir Starmer in tackling the "antisemitism that had been allowed to fester in parts of the Labour Party".

"He did that and that's the responsibility of any leader of any political party".

More now from security minister Tom Tugendhat, who is on the media round this morning.

He did not rule out a run at the Tory leadership if Rishi Sunak quits following the general election.

Asked if he wanted to be leader, he told Times Radio: "What I want to do is to make sure we've got a Conservative leader in this country and that's why I'm supporting Rishi Sunak.

"Because the alternative with Keir Starmer, I'm afraid, is higher taxes, more regulation, worse growth and more unemployment.

"What we need to do is to make sure that Conservatives across this country win their seats and that's exactly what I've been focused on."

Pressed again on the issue of what happens after the election, he said: "Well, we'll deal with hypotheticals in a different way.

"I mean, the reality is Rishi Sunak is the candidate, there's only two candidates for prime minister, there's Rishi Sunak and there's Sir Keir Starmer.

"One of them is committed to lowering your taxes, protecting your borders and making a difference in everybody's lives.

"The other, I'm afraid, is Sir Keir Starmer who is committed to raising your taxes, to making life a little bit harder for everybody and to lecturing you on how to live your life."

By Adele Robinson, news correspondent

It's an icy cold December morning outside a Travelodge in Enfield, north London, when we first meet Nedret Batir.

She's wearing a T-shirt, but seems oblivious to the temperature - only consumed with her obvious and immediate distress.

Everything she owns, along with her two daughters' possessions, are packed up into suitcases in the corridor of the hotel.

She has just been evicted from her room and is now officially homeless.

There are dark circles under her eyes, and she looks pale, as she calls the council's housing department.

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