travel to erbil kurdistan

Kurdistan Regional Government

Representation in the united states, visa information (kurdistan region of iraq only).

Who Should Apply for a Visa:

Effective March 1, 2023, all travelers traveling to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, will require a visa. Some nationalities may obtain a visa within minutes (online), while others will need to go through a longer process. Please check which country your passport was issued by and apply via that process.

Exempt Travelers : If your place of birth is in Iraq, regardless of your passport, you do not need a visa. If you have accompanying minors or adults (i.e. your children) and their birthplace is not Iraq, but yours is, they do not need a visa either. Please skip to the FAQ section at the bottom of this page. To print a visa clearance letter for persons born in Iraq or children of parents who were born in Iraq, if even such children are born abroad, you may print this EXEMPTION LETTER and present it to the ticketing counter agent in order upon your check-in.

Online Visa For Limited Nationalities : If your passport is issued by the countries on LIST A , including, Albania, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, China, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Holy See (Vatican City State), Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Latvia, Lebanon, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, Russia, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, United Arab Emirates, United Kingdom, and the United States, to apply for your visa online,   CLICK HERE .

Must Apply for Visa Nationalities : If your passport is issued  by the   countries on   LIST B ,   including, Algeria, Andorra, Angola, Antigua and Barbuda, Argentina, Armenia, Azerbaijan, Bahamas, Bahrain, Barbados, Belarus, Belize, Benin, Bhutan, Bolivia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Brunei, Burkina Faso, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Chile, Colombia, Comoros, Congo, Democratic Republic of the, Congo, Republic of (Brazzaville), Costa Rica, Côte d'Ivoire, Cuba, Curacao, Djibouti, Dominica, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Faroe Islands, Fiji, Gabon, Gambia, Georgia, Ghana, Grenada, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Guyana, Haiti, Honduras, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Iran (Islamic Republic of), Jamaica, Jordan, Kazakhstan, Kiribati, Kosovo (Republic of), Korea, Democratic People’s Republic of (North), Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lesotho, Liberia, Libya, Macau, North Macedonia, Madagascar, Malawi, Malaysia, Maldives, Mali, Marshall Islands, Mauritania, Mauritius, Mexico, Federated States of Micronesia, Republic of Moldova, Monaco, Mongolia, Montenegro, Morocco, Mozambique, Myanmar, Burma, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, Nicaragua, Niger, Northern Mariana Islands, Oman, Palau, Palestine, Panama, Papua New Guinea, Paraguay, Peru, Philippines, Rwanda, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Samoa, San Marino, Sao Tome and Principe, Saudi Arabia, Senegal, Serbia, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Singapore, Solomon Islands, South Africa, South Sudan, Sri Lanka, Sudan, Suriname, Swaziland (Eswatini), Syria, Taiwan, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Thailand, Timor-Leste (East Timor), Togo, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tunisia, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Tuvalu, Ukraine, Uruguay, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Venezuela, Vietnam, Virgin Islands (U.S.), Western Sahara, Zambia, Zimbabwe, United Nations specialized agency official,  you will need to apply for a visa through the KRG Representation in the United States, based in Washington. This includes green card and other permanent resident document holders (i.e. travel documents). See the following section for instructions on how to apply.

Do Not Apply Nationalities : If your country is not listed in either of those lists (A or B), including Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Egypt, Ethiopia, Guatemala, India, Kenya, Nigeria, Pakistan, Somalia, Uganda, or Yemen, KRG is unable to issue a visa at this time. We apologize for any inconvenience. However, if you work for one of the international institutions or NGOs and you need to visit the Kurdistan Region for work, please contact us at: [email protected]  and explain your affiliation and purpose of visit along with proof of documentation.

----------------------------------------------------------------

Applying for a Visa [For passport holders on LIST B].

READ BEFORE PROCEEDING : Your passport must be from the countries on LIST B and  be based in the US or Canada to proceed. If you are not, please skip this section and contact one of the authorized visa agencies based in the Kurdistan Region to help you with the application. See the table below.

• Fill out the visa application form,  C LICK HERE...
• Pay for your visa application ($72.26 USD). You can pay with a Visa/Master Card, Google Pay, Cash App, or PayPal. Click below to pay with your preferred option:
• Click here to  Pay with PayPal
• Click here to p ay with Visa Card, Master Card, Google Pay, or Cash App
• Scan the QR code below to pay with your phone

Processing Timeframe Note : Your visa request will be sent to the KRG Ministry of Interior (MOI) for processing. Once processed, we will inform you via the email address provided. Please allow up to 15 business days from the date of your application submission for processing. A visa page that contains your information along with a unique QR barcode will be emailed to you. Upon arrival or point of entry, a Customs officer will have all your information and an entry stamp will be granted on-site. Rejection or denial of a visa is not subject to any refunds.

If your passport is from the countries on LIST B and you are not based in the United States or Canada, you must contact one of the following authorized visa agencies to assist you with the application:

  --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):

Q. I was born in Iraq and my passport says the place of birth is Iraq, do I need a visa? No. If your place of birth is Iraq, regardless of what nationality passport you hold, you do not  need a visa .

Q. I was born in Iraq, but my children were born abroad, do they need visas? No. If you have accompanying minors or adults (i.e. your children) and their birthplace is not Iraq, but yours is, they do not need a visa either. However, at least one parent who was born in Iraq must accompany minors/adult children.

Q. I have a US/Canadian travel document and I was born in Iraq, do I need to apply for a visa? It depends. If you were born in Iraq and your travel document says place of birth in Iraq, you do not need a visa. But there is one more condition you must meet: you must have an original Iraqi ID with you to get on a plane. If you need the visa, you must apply through the KRG Representation in Washington. You must be based in the US or Canada.

Q. I have a US/Canadian travel document, but I was not born in Iraq, do I need to apply for a visa? Yes. You must apply through the KRG Representation in Washington. You must be based in the US or Canada.

No.   If you have accompanying minors or adults (i.e. your children) and their birthplace is not Iraq, but yours is, they do not need a visa either. However, at least one parent who was born in Iraq must accompany minors/adult children.

Q. Do I need to be COVID-19 vaccinated or have a negative PCR test to travel to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq?

As of April 1, 2022, fully vaccinated Iraqi and foreign travelers will no longer need to present a recent negative PCR test ahead of traveling or at arrival. Travelers above the age of 12 who have received one dose of Johnson & Johnson, or two doses of any other vaccine will no longer require evidence of a recent negative PCR test when traveling to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. In cases where an individual has not or cannot receive the COVID-19 vaccine, proof of a negative PCR test done within 72 hours of flight departure will be required. Travelers under the age of 12 are exempt from both, the PCR test and the COVID-19 vaccine.

Q. My country is not listed in the list above. What should I do? Please check both lists (A and B). If your country/nationality is not listed in any of those lists, it is likely one of those countries that are not eligible for the visa, as determined by the KRG authorities. 

Q. What is the v isa jurisdiction (where can I go with this visa)? This visa applies to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq jurisdiction ONLY. A visa for travel to the rest of Iraq may be obtained through the Embassy of Iraq .

Q. How much does the visa cost and how can I pay? The fee for a visa is $72.26 (USD). You can pay it with PayPal using your Visa or Master Card

Q. How long should I have left on my passport expiration date before I can travel?  Your passport must be valid for a minimum of six months from the date of entry into the Kurdistan Region of Iraq. If your passport will expire within six months of entry, do not travel. Instead, renew your passport/travel document first.

Q. For how long can I stay in the Kurdistan Region with my visa?

A default 30-day visa is granted. Should you need to extend your stay beyond 30 days, you can do so for up to 90 days. You may visit any of the three KRG Residency Offices ( click here for location ), in Erbil, Duhok, or Sulaimania. The visit visa is extendable and can be converted to a work visa beyond 90 days. This extension can be applied twice, not more than 90 days in total. KRG Residency Office will be able to give you additional information.

Q. After I receive my visa, how long do I have, to travel before it expires? When you receive your visa, you have 90 days to travel to the Kurdistan Region from the date of your visa issuance. If 90 days lapse and you have not traveled, you'll need to apply for another visa.

Q. Is the KRG tourist visa single or multi-entry? Single entry visa.

Q. Could I use the KRG visa to visit the rest of Iraq, outside of the KRG Administration areas?  No. You should first apply for and obtain an Iraqi visa and then travel to the rest of Iraq. Otherwise, you could find yourself deported back to your home country; or at worse face criminal charges. 

Q. Will I get refunded if my visa request is denied by the Ministry of Interior? No. Once the application is submitted, the approval and denial are strictly at the discretion of the Ministry of Interior. We are unable to issue any refunds.

For questions or assistance, please contact Karwan Zebari at [ [email protected] ] or call (+1) 202-821-1860.

Tweets by ‎@KRG_USA

Travel Guide to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan [with Sample Itinerary]

Read our Erbil travel guide to help you have an idea with your next journey and adventure here in the capital city of Iraqi Kurdistan.

• Travel to the Middle East – One Week Trip Itinerary for Oman
• Best Sailing Destinations in the Middle East
• A Filipino Wanderluster’s Perks of Being in the Middle East
• Middle East Expat’s Guide To Money Management
• Life in the Middle East: Moved to Saudi Arabia for Love

Table of Contents

Erbil Travel Guide: Places to Visit in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

1. erbil-kurdistan.

2. Erbil Citadel

3. Sami Abdulrahman Park

4. Kurdish Textile Museum

5. The Korek Mountain Resort & Spa

Korek Mountain is a must-see natural beauty. The cable car gives great views on the way up. They also have a lot of activities for families for all seasons. Upon going down, you can stop at some of the small towns to eat.

6. Jalil Khayat Mosque

7. Gali Ali Bag

Located near Rawanduz, it is easy to get here by taxi. The sound of the water falling is like music in the ears. You can get very close to the water, but then you’ll get pretty wet. In summer, you can go dinghy, but remember that the current is much weaker.

Erbil Travel Guide: Sample Weekend Itinerary to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

Day 1 – weekend guide to erbil, iraqi kurdistan.

Kurdish Textile Museum –  Discover one of the Kurds’ rich culture and tradition. See how traditional carpets are made.

The Korek Mountain Resort & Spa –  Don’t miss the chance to go to the Korek Mountain. Try the cable car and enjoy a wonderful view on top of it.

Day 2 – Weekend Guide to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

Erbil Citadel –  On your second day, spend it by strolling around the citadel. By going here, you can also visit the Erbil square which is located just below the citadel. Buy anything at the bazaar and eat a lot of delicious food.

Jalil Khayat Mosque –  Ready your camera to capture picturesque shots of the Jalil Khayat Mosque.

Day 3 – Weekend Guide to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

Sami Abdulrahman Park –  To end your trip to Erbil, have a relaxing day at the Sami Abdulrahman Park. With the quiet and peaceful surroundings, you’ll get the chance to contemplate.

Erbil Travel Guide: Where to Stay in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

*All prices are subject to change.

Where to Stay in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan if you’re a Backpacker

Logal Hotel 

All rooms at Logal Hotel are equipped with a flat-screen TV with satellite channels and are fitted with a private bathroom equipped with a bath or shower. There is a 24-hour front desk at the property as well. The nearest airport is Erbil International Airport, 9 km from the property.

Price: Starts at $50 per night for Standard Double or Twin Room, includes taxes and charges, free breakfast , but it’s non-refundable.

Hyksos Hotel

Hyksos Hotel provides accommodation with a restaurant, free private parking, a bar, and a shared lounge. It also provides accommodation with a restaurant, free private parking, a bar, and a shared lounge. At the Hyksos Hotel, each room includes a seating area.

Price: Starts at $77 per night for Twin Room with Balcony, includes taxes and charges, add $8 for breakfast , and free cancellation

Bella Roma Hotel

All rooms at Bella Roma Hotel boast a flat-screen TV with satellite channels and a private bathroom. The hotel provides an indoor pool, sauna, evening entertainment, and a 24-hour front desk. You can also enjoy a continental or a buffet breakfast.

Price: Starts at $85 per night for Standard Double Room, includes taxes and charges, free breakfast, and free cancellation.

Where to Stay in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan if you’re on a Budget

Masaya By Emerald

Masaya Hotel & Residences by Emerald features Cristal’s exclusively designed mattress for a soothing and relaxed stay, an LCD TV, coffee & tea facilities, mini bar, safe box, and complimentary internet access. It is a 10-minute drive from Erbil International Airport and offers free pick up from the airport for guests staying two or more nights.

Price: Starts at $107 per night for Superior Twin Room, includes taxes and charges, free breakfast, and free cancellation.

Darin Plaza Hotel

Darin Plaza Hotel offers a fitness center, an indoor pool, a sauna, and free Wi-Fi in all areas. all rooms and suites at Darin are decorated in soft tones. Each one offers a flat-screen TV, a wardrobe and a minibar. The suite includes a spacious seating area with a sofa. A buffet-style breakfast is served daily, while à-la-carte specialties are served in the evening at Darin Restaurant.

Price: Starts at $111 per night for Suite, includes taxes and charges, add $10 for breakfast , and free cancellation.

Cristal Erbil Hotel

Cristal Erbil Hotel is located in Erbil. Free WiFi access is available in the rooms. Each room here will provide you with a satellite TV, air conditioning, and an electric kettle. Featuring a shower, private bathroom also comes with a bath and a hairdryer. At Cristal Erbil Hotel guests can find a fitness center.

Price: Starts at $130 per night for Amber King Limited View, includes taxes and charges, free breakfast, and free cancellation.

Where to Stay in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan if you want Luxury

Ankawa Royal Hotel & Spa

Ankawa Royal Hotel & Spa offers free WiFi in all areas. Complete with a balcony, the elegant suites are air-conditioned. Each is equipped with a flat-screen TV, a seating area, and a safety deposit box. A bathrobe and free toiletries can be found in the private bathroom. A range of International classical and contemporary dishes can be enjoyed at the hotel’s restaurant.

Price: Starts at $154 per night for Deluxe King Room, includes taxes and charges, free breakfast, and free cancellation.

Divan Erbil Hotel

Divan Erbil Hotel offers luxurious, air-conditioned guestrooms with 24-hour room service. Each room offers a flat-screen TV, a minibar and an iPod docking station. Each suite has a separate living room with a plush sofa. Seasons Restaurant serves pizza, international, and barbecue cuisine, while Qi 21 Sushi Bar serves sushi.

Price: Starts at $227 per night for Deluxe King Room, add $23 for taxes and charges, $25 for breakfast , but offers a free cancellation.

Erbil Rotana

The Erbil Rotana is equipped with 201 spacious rooms and suites, each air-conditioned unit at The Erbil Rotana is elegantly decorated. They all have a bathroom with a walk-in rain shower and a separate bathtub. For lunch and dinner, the 5 on-site restaurants serve mesmerizing food adhering to all tastes and served by friendly, professional, and efficient staff.

Price: Starts at $230 per night for Classic King Room, add $23 for taxes and charges, $27.50 for breakfast , but offers a free cancellation.

Erbil Travel Guide: List of restaurants that you can try while in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

1. DC Steakhouse

DC Steakhouse has raised the standards for premium international dining in Erbil. Their mouthwatering steak has been making the customers go back over and over again.

Operating hours: 12:30 PM – 01:00 AM (Sun-Sat) Address:  Dream City Commercial complex, first floor. Dream City Commercial Complex, first floor., Erbil 44001 Iraq

2. Basilico

Craving, for some Italian cuisine? Basilico is the place to be. You can have a romantic and elegant dining experience here. Don’t forget to try one of their main dishes, the Sea Bass dish.

Address:  Gulan Street Hotel Rotana, Erbil 44001 Iraq

3. Well Done Bowl

For some Asian cuisine, you should head your way to the Well Done Bowl. Serving Chinese and Japanese dishes, it can satisfy your Asian cravings.

Address:  Ainkawa main road, close to US consulate Ankawa, Erbil 44001 Iraq

4. Al Bustan Lebanese Restaurant & Garden

From the name itself, this is a Lebanese Restaurant. Al Bustan’s mouth-watering menu is filled with Lebanese and local cuisine that is sure to please every diner’s palettes.

Operating hours: 7:00 PM – 12:00 AM  (Sun-Sat) Address:  Gulan Street, Erbil 44001 Iraq

To have a taste of a wonderful Middle Eastern cuisine, you should head your way to Dawa 2. Those meat-lovers would enjoy dining here.

Address:  Mosul Road, Erbil 0964 Iraq

And that’s our Erbil travel guide for you! We hope we’re able to give you enough insights about this city. Have you been here? Or are you planning to go here? Share with us your experience!

Are you on Pinterest? Pin these!

About the Writer

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

COPYRIGHT DISCLAIMER: Many of the articles on Two Monkeys Travel Group are guest posts by a number of Approved Contributors and are hosted by Two Monkeys Travel Group. Approved Contributors control their own work and post freely to our site. This includes all text and images that they use within their own work. All contributors are instructed to follow internationally recognised copyright and intellectual property guidelines. Two Monkeys Travel Group takes its own responsibilities very seriously, so if you feel that any part of this work is abusive in any way, please send us an email so that we can investigate - [email protected]

DISCLOSURE: Please note that some of the links above are affiliate links. So when you make a purchase we sometimes make a small commission, at no extra cost to you. The cost to you remains the same, sometimes even cheaper if we have negotiated a special deal for our readers.We use all of the companies we have listed here and that’s why they are in this list, but of course we need to keep Two Monkeys Travel Group running as well as it can, which is exactly what you’re helping with if you do decide to buy or book something through an affiliate link! If you have any more questions about the companies we use or any other companies you’re looking at, just email us and we’ll be happy to help. Please see our full disclaimer page for more information.

Written by Two Monkeys Travel - Contributor

Two Monkeys Travel Group – Community Travel Blog is a travel blog and website. We quickly grew into a valuable source of inspiring travel stories, advice, itineraries and travel guides, with the aim of demonstrating how to live a sustainable life of travel, whilst living your own definition of success. If you'd like to contribute and write a guest post, contact us at [email protected]

Africa Unveiled: Discovering the Continent’s Hidden Gems and Iconic Landmarks

The digital nomad’s tech guide 2024, discover turkey’s lesser-known gems for the adventurer, the lesser-known beaches of the aegean coast: relaxing on pristine stretches of sand away from the crowds of popular resort towns, 48 hours in tokyo – exploring japan’s vibrant capital, related posts, is israel visa free for filipinos requirements and guide to visa extension in israel, sur plaza hotel – where to stay while in the ancient city of sur, oman, list of the best budget hotels in brunei, diy guide to mambukal mountain resort, negros occidental, philippines, previous post, travel anxiety – 6 ways on how to treat it quickly and medicine-free, weekend itinerary in santander, spain: how to spend 3 days in santander, subscribe to our newsletter.

Receive tips on how you can live a sustainable long-term travel lifestyle!

• First Name *
• Email This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged.

Cookies on GOV.UK

We use some essential cookies to make this website work.

We’d like to set additional cookies to understand how you use GOV.UK, remember your settings and improve government services.

We also use cookies set by other sites to help us deliver content from their services.

You have accepted additional cookies. You can change your cookie settings at any time.

You have rejected additional cookies. You can change your cookie settings at any time.

Bring photo ID to vote Check what photo ID you'll need to vote in person in the General Election on 4 July.

• Passports, travel and living abroad
• Travel abroad
• Foreign travel advice

Warnings and insurance

Your travel insurance could be invalidated if you travel against advice from the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office (FCDO).

Areas where FCDO advises against travel  

FCDO advises against all travel to Iraq except to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq ( KRI ).

FCDO advises against all but essential travel to KRI .

Find out more about why FCDO advises against travel .

Travel insurance

If you choose to travel despite FCDO advice, research your destinations and get appropriate travel insurance . Insurance should cover your itinerary, planned activities and expenses in an emergency.

About FCDO travel advice

FCDO provides advice about risks of travel to help British nationals make informed decisions. Find out more about FCDO travel advice .

Related content

Is this page useful.

• Yes this page is useful
• No this page is not useful

Help us improve GOV.UK

Don’t include personal or financial information like your National Insurance number or credit card details.

To help us improve GOV.UK, we’d like to know more about your visit today. Please fill in this survey (opens in a new tab) .

Beyond Wild Places

Your guide to the wilder side of life

A Complete Guide to Travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan

If you’re contemplating travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan and wondering what you need to know about going there as a tourist, then look no further. In this blog post, I have covered all the important practical travel tips anyone would need to know before travelling to Kurdistan based on my experience.

Iraqi Kurdistan is not what many people expect it to be. It’s quite far removed from the dominant narrative of war, terrorism and religious fanaticism that we are fed in the media. Although, if you’re contemplating a trip there, then I’m assuming you already know that. 

The Kurdish people are some of, if not the most, friendliest people I’ve come across on my travels. The difference I found with the Kurds, was that their friendliness was genuine and some of my most memorable experiences were thanks to the locals I met. When tourism ramps up in the area who knows what may happen, however, for now, tourists are a rare sight, welcomed with open arms and treated like a true guest.  

Disclaimer:  This post contains affiliate links which means I get a commission if you buy a product through my link at no extra cost to you. By doing so, I can keep this blog going and continue to create helpful guides for you. Read more:  Privacy Policy

When to travel to Iraqi Kurdistan

Most people agree that the best time to visit Iraqi Kurdistan is in  March  and  April  when the Kurds celebrate Nawroz, or New Year. To witness the celebrations is apparently an incredible experience, particularly in the village of Akre. 

Otherwise,  October  and  November  are also good times to visit in terms of climate. I was there in  September  and the weather was perfect. 

Where to go in Iraqi Kurdistan

For a quick rundown on the main places of interest in Iraqi Kurdistan:

The three largest cities,  Sulaymaniyah, Erbil  and  Duhok , are on most people’s Iraqi Kurdistan itineraries. 

As are  Lalish  (the holiest Yazidi temple),  Alqosh  (Christian village and home of the Rabban Hormizd monastery),  Akre  (Kurdistan’s “prettiest village”) and  Amedi  (an ancient hilltop village). These towns can easily be explored on days trips from the major cities.

If you have more time, Rawanduz  canyon is also often visited for its incredible landscape and  Halabja  is a popular half-day trip from Sulaymaniyah for those interested in recent Kurdish history.

Read next: Best Things to Do in Sulaymaniyah

How to get around Iraqi Kurdistan

Most places can be reached by  shared transport , with the exception of Lalish (which is not really on any main road). This is the cheapest option and is relatively straight forward, with shared parking lots full of comfortable taxis and vans waiting to fill up in most cities, known as a garaj .

Otherwise, you can opt to hire a  private driver or tour  to see Iraqi Kurdistan. This is a good option if you’re short on time and want to see multiple places in one day. It’s not cheap, with daily rates starting at around USD$100 for a driver. 

I used a combination of both, local shared transport as well as private drivers. The shared transport is easiest to move between major cities like Sulaymaniyah and Erbil for example. However, it’s a great idea to combine Lalish, Alqosh and Akre in a day trip with a private car hire/tour either from Erbil or Duhok, simply for the ease and convenience.

Other day trips, such as to Amedi from Duhok and Halabja from Sulaymaniyah can be done by either shared transport or private hire. I did both by shared transport and it was not too difficult. 

You could technically cover all the main places in Iraqi Kurdistan within a week if you hired private transport. Otherwise, you’ll likely need at least 10 days if you plan on seeing things by shared transport. 

If you’re looking at doing a more  organised   tour  or want a contact for hiring private taxis, I would recommend  Haval . He is one of two local  Iraqi Kurdistan tour guides  that are quite well established and highly recommended. He is based in Erbil but organises trips all over the area. If you want to use him as a guide, I suggest contacting him before arriving as he is in high demand. He can be contacted through Facebook  here .

Public transport in Iraqi Kurdistan

As it’s a relatively small region there is no need for a large bus network with regular services. As mentioned above, there are shared  minivans  and  taxis  that make runs between towns which leave whenever they’re full. 

They’re quite comfortable, move quickly and aren’t too expensive. They leave from a parking area usually called a  garaj . In the bigger cities like Erbil and Sulaymaniyah there are more than one of these garaj’s servicing different areas, so it’s best to check with hotel staff which one you need. As soon as you arrive at a garaj you will hear men shouting destinations and people are more than happy to point to the correct vehicle for you.

Is Iraqi Kurdistan safe to visit?

Yes. In fact, someone told me that fewer people have died from terrorist attacks in Iraqi Kurdistan than in Europe in recent years. The cities of Sulaymaniyah, Erbil and Duhok are extremely safe, even at night, and petty crime is almost unheard of. I would just take regular precautions as you would travelling in any country.

But you have to understand that Iraqi Kurdistan is very different from Arab Iraq and just a short distance away, cities are still very fragile and unstable. Even cities like Mosul and Kirkuk which are not too far away are only just beginning to rebuild and recover from the war against ISIS. 

There is also a heavy military and police presence, especially on the major highways and passport checks are common. This shouldn’t be of any concern as a foreign tourist, although you should always listen to local and on the ground advice while you’re there.

Read next: A Travel Guide to Erbil

Kurdish politics

Politics is very pervasive in Kurdish culture and everyday life, and people are generally very open to talking about it. It’s also very important to understand at least the basics of Kurdish politics and the region in general, as that will only better inform you while travelling as to why things are the way they are. So, here’s a brief summary of Kurdish politics in Iraq to date, if you’re interested (can you tell I have a degree in political science?).

Regional politics is an extremely complex affair. For a start, Kurds want their own nation, ideally incorporating western Iran, southeastern Turkey, northern Syria and northern Iraq, which they refer to as  Greater Kurdistan . At this point, it seems unlikely, but many Kurds remain hopeful that one day there will be an official country called Kurdistan. Iraq is the only place where they have achieved some sense of stable independence and they operate on a semi-autonomous system under Iraq’s central government. 

The  Kurdistan Regional Government  is made up of two dominant political parties; Patriotic Union of Kurdistan (PUK) and Kurdistan Democratic Party (KDP). The KDP has been dominated by the Barzani family and tribe since it was founded in 1946, which has led many to criticise it as autocratic. The PUK split off from it in 1975 as a sort-of socialist, left party.

The two fought against each other in the 1990s in what is referred to as the Kurdish civil war and led to a division, whereby the PUK controlled the area around Sulaymaniyah and the KDP controlled Erbil and the surrounding area.

After the US invasion of Iraq in 2003, the KDP and PUK slowly worked on a more unified government. Barzani as the leader of the KDP was elected leader of the Kurdistan Regional Government in 2005 and he only stepped down in 2017 after the failed referendum. There are still many Kurds who have strong opinions about the Barzani family and the divisions between PUK and KDP supporters still exists.

The KRG and Peshmerga forces were one of the US’s greatest allies in the fight against ISIS in both Syria and Iraq and it was largely thanks to the Peshmerga in Iraq that the country has been liberated from them.

In 2017, Barzani called for an independence referendum which upset the Iraqi central government. The result reportedly was that at least 92% of Kurds voted in favour of independence but it was quickly quashed with clashes between Iraqi forces and the Kurdish Peshmerga. It was a devastating blow, as the KRG lost control over Kirkuk, one of their most profitable oil fields and they were forced to sign an agreement whereby they would never seek independence from Iraq again.

Visas for Iraqi Kurdistan

Immigration for Iraqi Kurdistan is controlled by the Kurdistan Regional Government. For European nationals, American, Canadian, Australian, Japanese and Korean passport holders,  visas are not necessary  and you’ll be granted  30 days  free on arrival. 

Note that this is different from the  Iraq visa , in which most foreign nationals require to  apply for in advance . If you want to visit cities like Mosul or Kirkuk, which are now under Iraqi control, then a proper Iraqi visa is required, even to use the roads leading to those cities.

Iraqi Kurdistan borders

The international borders with  Turkey  and  Iran  are open as well as the internal border with  Arab Iraq . Visas for all these borders need to be obtained beforehand. Turkey has an easy to use e-visa system, whereas for land border crossings into Iran you need to have applied and received a visa prior to crossing (visa on arrival is only for airport arrivals) and the same for Iraq (see above). 

Iran  || There are two border crossings between Iran and Iraq. You can cross near Sulaymaniyah which takes you into Iranian Kurdistan and Marivan, or you can also cross through Rawanduz and Soran, north of Erbil, which is closer to Tabriz on the Iranian side. Read more: How to cross the Iran-Iraq Border from Marivan .

Turkey  || The main border crossing with Turkey is northwest of Duhok at the Ibrahim Khalil Border Crossing. This takes you into Kurdish-majority southeastern Turkey. Read more: How to cross the Iraq-Turkey Border .

Syria  || Technically, the border between Iraqi Kurdistan and the Kurdish-autonomous region inside Syria has been open on and off in the last few years. For tourists, it is not permitted to cross, but this may change in years to come though.

Female and solo travellers in Iraqi Kurdistan

As a female, I had no problems travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan and I felt much more free than I had in Iran. It’s conservative on some levels but is also quite progressive. In the cities, you will notice Kurdish girls tend to wear whatever they feel like and a headscarf is not that common. I would still wear relatively conservative clothing. I felt comfortable in a t-shirt, but always kept my legs covered. I always carried a scarf but rarely wore it on my head.

However, rural life is quite different and if you visit any villages or smaller towns, people will naturally be more conservative. Kurdish family life is still very traditional in many respects and women are still confined to indoor duties and looking after the home. 

As a foreigner, however, I didn’t feel that people were overly judgemental and I felt that they were pretty accepting of the fact that I was travelling alone. They were just perhaps very curious about it. Of course the age-old, “are you married?” question will be asked a lot, but it’s not to be mistaken as a sleazy gesture but a genuine inquiry, as it is quite a different concept for them that a single young girl can freely travel on her own.

Otherwise, as a solo female traveller in Iraqi Kurdistan, you shouldn’t face any more difficulties than you might in other countries and in fact, I had far less hassling than other countries in the Middle East.

Money and ATMs in Iraqi Kurdistan

Kurdistan uses the  Iraqi Dinar  as their currency. US dollars are widely accepted and even Euros in some hotels. It is truly a cash economy, and almost nowhere accepts credit cards unless you stay in more expensive hotels, but I wouldn’t rely on it.

ATMs  are notoriously hard to come by. In Sulaymaniyah, there are a few around the central area, but in Erbil, most ATMs are located on the outer parts of the city and in the Ankawa neighbourhood. Not all ATMs accept foreign cards either. 

Byblos Bank  does accept foreign cards and it can also give you USDs as well as Iraqi dinar but they seemed to charge extra fees for foreign cards (or at least my card). I found the best ATM and bank to use was the  Bank of Baghdad  which charged no fees and you could also withdraw both USD and dinars. 

You can find foreign exchange markets in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah, if you’re bringing cash into the country. Although the rates will likely not be very good.

Budget for Iraqi Kurdistan

In terms of  budget , keep in mind that Iraqi Kurdistan is not a cheap place to travel, when you compare it to its neighbours. A 2 star hotel ranges from USD$20-40 per night for a single/double room and a meal at a local restaurant costs around USD$5-9.

Shared minivans and taxis are not too badly priced, a seat in a minivan between Sulaymaniyah and Erbil for example cost USD$9. For a private taxi hire/tour for a day with multiple stops, you’ll be looking at USD$120+.

Language in Kurdistan

Kurdish language has many  dialects  and in Iraq the main two are Sorani and Kurmanji, and along with Arabic, they are the languages you will hear most around Kurdistan.

Not too many people speak  English  but you’ll find the younger generation almost all speak at least some.

Food in Iraqi Kurdistan

You wouldn’t go travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan just for the food necessarily. It’s pretty standard Middle Eastern cuisine; very  meat-heavy  with  rice  and  bread  making up the rest of most meals. If you’re lucky most places will have some sort of basic salad or eggplant or bean stew, but as for any other vegetables, you won’t really get any. A plate of olives is also a common starter.

A standard meal is chicken or red meat with rice, bread, beans and a plate of onion (plus a plate of eggplant if you’re lucky), refer to picture below. There are cheaper street food and take away options such as kebabs, sandwiches and falafel if you’re on a tight budget.

Vegetarians will find it difficult, but beans and eggplant are staple dishes almost all restaurants will have in some form and falafel sandwiches are a good choice.

Drinking in Kurdistan

Alcohol  is available in the major cities at supermarkets and designated alcohol shops. It’s not frowned upon to drink and some of the alcohol is even smuggled across the border into Iran. Although if you’re a solo female traveller I’d restrict alcohol intact to just well-known bars in Erbil or Sulaymaniyah to avoid any sort of problem.

Tea  is basically the national drink and you’ll find teashops and young boys walking around with a thermos practically everywhere. It’s largely a male affair and you’ll rarely, if at all, see a woman sitting at a tea shop. However, as a foreign woman, I didn’t have any issues and many locals often invited me to sit for tea (unfortunately, the different treatment between foreign and local females is quite obvious here).

Accommodation in Iraqi Kurdistan

Accommodation in Iraqi Kurdistan is limited to standard hotels, with guesthouses and hostels not a ‘thing’ yet. Hotels are pretty good quality though, with even 2 star hotels at a pretty good standard. They all generally have private bathrooms, WiFi and tea and coffee available, while some also offering free breakfast.

The only exception to this is  Dolphin Hostel  in Sulaymaniyah owned by Shah, which is the only true hostel offering dormitories in Kurdistan. I highly recommend it and Shah is likely to become a good friend after your stay. He’s well known amongst foreign travellers who pass through Sulaymaniyah and I wouldn’t recommend staying anywhere else.

I booked my accommodation through Booking.com while travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan and found it the easiest way to guarantee a room.

For my other  hotel recommendations  you can see the individual posts for  Sulaymaniyah ,  Erbil and  Duhok .

Internet and SIM cards in Kurdistan

Internet  and  WiFi  is relatively good when you can get it travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan. All hotels have WiFi as do all the more upmarket restaurants and cafes. 

SIM cards  are relatively painless to get. If you’re travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan I would recommend that you get one for convenience and safety.

I was lucky enough to get one from two people who crossed from Iraq into Iran and so I didn’t personally go through the application process. I was given a  Newroz  SIM which had unlimited data for 30 days and it costs USD$20 or 25, 000 ID for the month. It worked pretty much everywhere.

I heard that  Asiacell  was likely better, as it’s one of the biggest companies, but prices are relatively similar no matter who you go with. 

Find all my Iraqi Kurdistan posts

• A Travel Guide to Erbil

Best Things to Do in Sulaymaniyah

• How to Visit Amedi from Duhok
• Why You Should Explore Akre, Lalish and Alqosh

Pin this post

Share this:

Why You Should Explore Akre, Lalish and Alqosh in Iraqi Kurdistan

A Travel Guide to Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan’s Capital

How to Visit Amedi from Duhok in Iraqi Kurdistan

[…] crossing the border from Iraqi Kurdistan, I arrived in Mardin. I really hadn’t known much about the town before arriving there, other than […]

This comprehensive guide to travelling in Iraqi Kurdistan provides valuable insights and practical tips for tourists. The author’s personal experience highlights the friendliness of the Kurdish people and their welcoming nature towards visitors. The guide covers important topics such as when to travel, places to visit, transportation options, safety, visas, and cultural aspects. The inclusion of personal recommendations and useful information on accommodation, food, and language adds to the overall value of the guide. It’s a helpful resource for anyone planning a trip to Iraqi Kurdistan.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Discover more from beyond wild places.

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Type your email…

Continue reading

Best 21 Things to Do In Erbil (Travel Guide) · Iraqi Kurdistan

Moving to a new country every two years

Welcome to beautiful Erbil, the biggest city of Iraqi Kurdistan!

Based on my experience of living for two years in one of the most ancient cities in the world Erbil (also called Hawler in Kurdish), I’ve made this comprehensive Erbil travel guide.

Things to do in Erbil · Explore the Ancient Citadel and bazaar

So what is Erbil famous for? It is of course the famous ancient Citadel! Right in the heart of the city.

Among things to do in Kurdistan and Erbil, visiting the ancient Citadel is number one on the list.

Erbil is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. It’s a city full of history and cultural gems, and the Citadel is undoubtedly the most famous part of the city. 

The Citadel of Erbil dates back more than 6,000 years. It is one of the oldest places in the world where people have always lived, so it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

There is still one family that actually lives inside the old fortress to keep the world record!

Check out my cinematic travel video for an impression of this fascinating area.

This famous site is full of Mesopotamian history. It has seen the rise and fall of many cultures, making it an archaeological treasure. The form of the Citadel is a mix of different building styles, which shows how different cultures have affected the area over time.

The most accessible place to park, if you’re going by car, is the parking area near the back entrance of the Citadel (Costs: 1000 dinar which is 75 cents). After parking, you can walk up to the rear entrance and start your trip.

Once inside the Citadel, you’ll feel like you’ve stepped into an old middle eastern movie.

The Citadel also has several museums that tell more about the area’s history. Inside the Citadel is the Kurdish Textile Museum to see beautifully made fabrics and learn about traditional weaving methods passed down from generation to generation.

The Erbil Civilization Museum is also a must-see. It has items that show how the city has changed over time.

Next to the Erbil Civilization Museum, you will find an old souvenir shop where you can buy money used in the time of Saddam. It’s an incredibly unique area.

On the other side you will have an amazing view over the Erbil main square, the center of Erbil. I absolutely loved walking around there right in the heart of Erbil.

Check out my full post about the area of the Citadel in Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan. (Coming Soon)

Location Parking

Things to do in Erbil · Meet the Kurdish locals

One of the most extraordinary things about traveling is meeting locals. They can give you new perspectives and share information you will not find anywhere. The Kurdish people are among the most friendly, open, and welcoming people I’ve ever met.

In the city of Erbil, you’ll meet friendly people happy to tell you about their lives and customs.

When you walk around the old center, locals will surely come up to you, ask where you’re from, and perhaps take a picture with you. They are always kind and interested.

Talk to the locals at the busy bazaars, the cute tea shops, or while you’re visiting the historical places. If you spend time getting to know the people of Erbil, you’ll learn a lot about their history, habits, and way of life.

The people from Erbil are very proud of how well they make tourists feel at home, going above and beyond to ensure they have a great time. I’ve had several occasions when complete strangers said: “If you need anything, just let me know!” or they would offer me a bottle of water, for example.

The kindness and friendliness of the locals will stay with you forever, from the traditional Kurdish meals they serve to the heartfelt talks they share.

The Citadel in Erbil in Kurdistan is one of the best locations to meet locals, much easier than in many other countries in my experience.

Things to see in Erbil: The Jalil Khayat Mosque

When you’re looking for things to see in Erbil, besides the Citadel, one of the most interesting structures in Erbil is the Jalil Khayat Mosque.

It is the largest mosque in the city.

The mosque is open for visitors and tourists outside of praying hours. It was actually built as a tourist attraction in mind, I’ve been told.

Among things to do in Erbil, Kurdistan, it is worth a visit when you are in Erbil. When I was visiting the mosque, it was closed, but someone was so kind to us to open the mosque and gave us a tour. I was allowed to take pictures and walk around in this vast empty mosque.

It shows again how friendly the Kurdish people are.

The inside was beautiful; there were stunning colors and details on the ceiling and walls.

I’ve also been to the massive mosque in Oman called the Sultan Qaboos Mosque and the blue mosque in istanbul . Those are a lot bigger, but the Jalil Khayat Mosque in Erbil is in an excellent second or third spot, at least.

It is best reached by car and parking is free like almost everywhere in Erbil.

Just incase the mosque is closed you might have to find a local working in the mosque. When I visited the mosque it was closed but they were so kind to open it for us. The Kurds are very friendly so don’t be shy to ask them! (Oh, and don’t forget to take of your shoes 😉 )

Location Mosque

More Posts About Kurdistan

Off The Beaten Path: Hiking in Iraq (Ultimate Travel Guide)

The Beautiful Kurdish Culture: 12 Hidden Customs & Traditions

Renting a Car in Erbil? Complete Guide to Make the Best Choice

Rawanduz Revealed: Iraq’s Best-Kept Secret (Travel Guide)

Newroz: The Most Epic Kurdish Event in Iraq (Travel Guide)

Erbil Citadel and Grand Qaysari Bazaar · Complete Guide 2024

22 Pros and Cons of Iraq: Unveiling the Truth

A Kurdish Wedding: Dance, Eat and Party like at a Festival

what to do in Erbil: Hiking!

In Kurdistan, there are several traditional activities on weekends; one of the most famous is, hiking!

There are numerous options to go hiking or walking in the outdoors in Iraqi Kurdistan. My favorite location is Rawanduz , 1 hour and 45 minutes driving from Erbil.

Seen here below is the closest mountain to Erbil is Safeen (or Safin). It is about 45 minutes driving from Erbil, depending on where you park… 😉

You can drive all the way up the mountain or park your car at the bottom and hike to the top, which is the most fun way!

A photo with a Barzani (Kurdistan President) scarf is mandatory on the top of the mountain!

You’d be surprised about the rich nature of the area. As you climb up the trails of Mountain Safeen, you’ll see fantastic views that will blow your mind.

In the distance, you will see the town of Shaqlawa , and even further, you will see snow-peaked mountain tops. Snow in Iraq!

With its beautiful green grass, rocky rocks, and colorful flowers (during spring), Safeen is a feast for the eyes that will surely make you feel better. It feels more like being in Austria than in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Mountain Safeen is where you can escape the busy world and find peace and quiet. This area is the perfect place to relax and recharge because it is quiet and hasn’t been touched by humans.

If you’re thinking about what to do in Erbil; this is one of the best places to visit in Erbil.

Best location for driving up the mountain.

Best location for parking to hike up the mountain.

When is the best time to visit Mountain Safeen?

Hiking on Mountain Safeen during winter time is actually a great and unique experience. In winter time during the day, it is usually around 8 degrees. When you go hiking to the top, it will be around 0 degrees. Most of the time, days are sunny, which are perfect hiking conditions.

Bring some BBQ equipment and do a winter BBQ!

The mountain’s flora and fauna will be at their peak during the brief spring season (about March to June). You will see an enormous variety of flowers and plants, salamanders, and butterflies.

If you want to spot more wildlife like vultures and mountain goats, you will have to go to mountains a bit further away like mountain Barzan.

This will be the longest period of the year and also the hottest. If you prepare well, bring enough water, and take it easy, it is doable to hike in the mountains. Personally, I find it too hot.

Try to avoid weekends!

Something I learned along the way, avoid the weekends! And that’s not Saturday and Sunday like you will probably be used to, but Friday and Saturday. In most of the middle eastern countries, the weekend is on Friday and Saturday. You can compare Friday to Sunday, like in most Western Countries when everybody is off from work and visits family.

But, one thing many people do on Friday in Kurdistan, and I mean MANY people, is go hiking and picnicking. So, if you want peace of mind and just drive relaxed to the mountains, try going there from Monday to Thursday or Sunday.

The traffic jams on Friday especially are crazy; everybody goes out of the city to picnic with the family. Going on a Friday is an adventure in itself, but if you want to have the most relaxed experience, avoid going on a Friday.

Preparing to hike on Mountain Safeen

• Tell someone about your hike plans and when you think you’ll be back for safety.
• If possible, go with a local who knows the area.
• Plan your trip based on the weather and make sure there aren’t any warnings or limits.
• Bring along essential things like water, snacks, a first-aid kit, and a map of the paths.
• Respect the environment by following the Leave No Trace principles, which say you should only take memories and leave nothing behind.
• Avoid street dogs. Most of them are harmless, but when you’re out in the mountains with nobody around, it’s always good to be extra careful and not approach them.
• BBQing is allowed everywhere.
• Bring some coal, lighter fluid, Turkish coffee, and a Turkish coffee pot to make delicious Turkish coffee on top of the mountain.
• Finally, people are super friendly. If anything might happen, they will help you, provide water or assist you in any way they can.

Read my full post about the Majestic Mountains of Kurdistan .

Erbil’s closest town: Shaqlawa

The closest village near Erbil is Shaqlawa. It’s on the foot of Mountain Safeen. When you’ve been hiking for a day on the mountain, it’s a great opportunity to visit Shaqlawa and the busy market and streets.

What’s special about Shaqlawa? Erbil has a certain international touch to it; Shaqlawa is 100% local, which is nice to experience. It is also nestled between the mountains with mountain Safeen as the highest peak.

You can also find an ancient shrine close to Shaqlawa titled Shrine of Raban Boya.  

Location of Shrine: More info

Hiking: Mountain Korek or Barzan

If you have more time than the mountains, Korek or Barzan are a must-see. But! This area is not safe to visit solo.

You need a local guide that knows the area. You are entering terrain close to Turkey and Iran’s border, which is unsafe, so please be careful. Korek is the safer option of the two but Barzan has the upper hand on wild life.

That said, both areas are incredible. I never expected there to be so much nature, green, and wildlife. It’s just completely different than the image I had in my mind when I moved to Iraq. These areas are one of the most epic things to visit in Iraq.

I stereotypically expected a lot of sand; boy, was I wrong. But that’s the beauty of traveling to get new perspectives and insight into countries and cultures.

Barzan location

Korek location

View the city from rooftop bar Dusk

Back to the city!

If you’re looking for things to do in Erbil, such as going out. This bar has one of the best views in the city. It’s a rooftop bar that can open and close its roof; how awesome is that? They have fancy cocktails, nice snack food, and Hookah. The panoramic view is incredible; you’ll be able to see the city and the mountains.

Try some of the famous Iraqi Shisha, or Hookah as it is also called. Tip for starters: go for the lemon-mint flavour! It’s the mildest one.

Keep in mind that visiting the bar is only allowed for couples or groups including women. Guy groups are most of the time not allowed.

Info: https://iq.arabplaces.com/erbil/dusk-roof-bar-400062

Be amazed by the wedding photoshoots at Empire World

If you want to learn more about Kurdish culture , you must visit Empire World. It is the number one area for wedding photoshoots. You will see at least between 3 and 6 wedding photoshoots at the same time during the entire day.

Why is this interesting to see? Well, everyone is fully dressed in traditional clothes. The wedding dresses are purple, blue, gold, white, and red and are accompanied by golden necklaces.

The brides are wearing typical Kurdish make-up, and the guys have their hair done in a traditional Kurdish way. It’s one of the most authentic things you’ll ever see. If you are looking for things to do in Erbil than this has to be on your list.

You can have a drink at one of the bars and restaurants and watch the Kurdish folks celebrating a beautiful wedding day.

Unlike avoiding Mountain Safeen on Friday, this area in Empire World is perfect for visiting on a Friday. You will see a lot of wedding photoshoots with entire families. Sometimes it gets so crowded that there are wedding photoshoots on the side of the road. It’s a truly fascinating experience!

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/M8u2R6MSWV7qnu3E7

Read my full post about Kurdish weddings.

Shopping: Gulan Mall and Family Mall

If you are looking for things to buy in Erbil and do some shopping, then there are two main malls in Erbil. The most luxurious mall is Gulan Mall. It’s a shopping mall focused on brands and more high-end stuff. On the top floor, you will find an excellent food court with sushi, pizza, salads, and kebab.

Family Mall feels more local and is a more fun experience.

If you want to park in the parking garage below the mall, security guards will check your trunk, so keep that in mind.

Gulan Mall: https://goo.gl/maps/GhGmqcUnWw2by3R46

Family Mall: https://goo.gl/maps/MXf3f89zoQLbZ5uQ9

Walk around at Sami Abdul Rahman Park

Sami Abdul rahman Park is not in my top favorite things to do in Erbil, but it is relatively easy to visit, and it is pretty big. The thing is, there are several power generators running on gas in the park that can pollute the air quite a bit.

But it is an interesting area to visit. You can get some Turkish coffee, picnics, and go horse riding, there is a running track and a cable cart, but I’m not sure if it works.

Across the street, there is this dystopian abandoned building, that was never finished, with a huge Pepsi sign on it. As a photographer, I find this quite the fascinating image.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/sZjtfKPr6EbxAHZQ9

Buy BBQ equipment and go picnicking in the wild

As I said, hiking and BBQing are the one of the most famous activities in Erbil, and perhaps all of Kurdistan.

So, you will find many little shops that sell BBQ equipment along the roads. You can BBQ in the park or take the car outside the city and find a nice quiet place.

Go to Mountain Safeen or drive right behind Shaqlawa, where you will find a vast valley where there is plenty of space to BBQ or to drink some chai.

You don’t even have to bring a BBQ! A roster, some coal, and lighter fluid are enough. You can easily build a BBQ from big rocks lying around, living an adventurous life, BBQ’ing the Kurdish way!

Visit the small town of Akre

Talking about activities near Erbil, about 1,5 hours driving from Erbil is the small Kurdish town, Akre. It is one of the oldest inhabited places in the world. It is famous for its massive event during Kurdish New Year’s Eve.

You can visit the market and walk up to the most famous restaurant in the town, where they serve the best Kurdish food you will find.

I recommend going there with someone who knows the area so that you don’t get lost.

The road from Erbil is surprisingly good! The government made a new highway of very high quality.

Read my full post about visiting Akre .

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/aTSxJ7XV6eJzVKcb9

Nightlife in Erbil: Go to The Spot

Looking for things to do in Erbil at night? Erbil has quite the night life!

If you are in Gulan Mall, then make sure to have a quick stop at The Spot. This bar is an international bar with live music. Many people that visit Erbil are surprised by the modern surroundings, and this bar is part of that.

Attached to the bar is the German Bottle Shop, where they sell German bottles; who would have guessed? You can buy imported German beer but also anything ranging from Corona to more strong beer and many different kinds of wine. The prices are actually really reasonable!

It’s fascinating to find all these international locations in Erbil.

Many of my friends are expecting surroundings like in Baghdad or like they have seen in documentaries in Iraq. Erbil is quite different; you’d be surprised about this modern city.

Location : https://goo.gl/maps/tG2kYfiS5WcsMqe6A

Nightlife in Erbil: Basilis

There are quite a lot of clubs and bars in Erbil. The nightlife in Erbil is very much alive , but many of the clubs are entirely commercial and more focused on Arabic music. In Ankawa, there are a few more underground clubs that have a bit more of a Berlin vibe.

One of them is Basilis. During the week, it’s a bar that also serves very delicious pizza, but on Thursday night, it is a proper club with one of the best vibes in town.

If you want to go out clubbing, I recommend this place.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/BmFAbKvWhYEyZvjZA

Top things to do in Erbil: Take a Taxi!

Now this might not sound like one of the top things to do in Erbil, but in my experience, it is! Traffic is kind of crazy in Erbil, to say the least.

Taking a cab in Erbil is like diving headfirst into the chaos and getting a feel for the city’s rhythms. The city’s traffic is an ever-changing mixture of horns, swerving cars, quick pedestrians, trucks, scooters, people selling stuff on the road, and so on.

As soon as you step into the taxi, you’re part of the cab’s (Poethic mode on: ) “lively symphony of motion” Oh yes.

Taxi drivers know the streets and how and when to brake, avoid holes, or when they get priority on a roundabout, for example. But, for you, it will feel like the taxi driver has lost his mind, and you’re on a rampage…

There are no rules on the road! So, to sit in the front chair of a taxi is something only for adventurous people.

Make sure to always book a taxi with the app Careem.

Read more about what it’s like to drive a car yourself in Iraq.

Go to bars near Dream City

Near the famous area, Dream City is one of the biggest bar areas of Erbil. This area is more of a commercial site and less’ local.’ Nevertheless, it is pretty fascinating to visit it, especially during the evening when the muscle cars come out and Kurdish folks are dressed traditionally.

Although this area is not a Christian area where alcohol is allowed, most bars sell beer. If you are looking for a place to have some food and drinks, this is one of the best.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/HxYf7Do6T3RcK8aKA

Check out the huge MTV Cribs style villas

In Erbil and most of Kurdistan, the gap between the poor and rich is quite big.

You can see incredibly tiny houses where entire families live or gigantic villas with only two people. There are several areas where you can see villas that will blow your mind.

If you are in Empire World, you can easily walk to Dream City, where you will see many huge villas. Other areas are New Azadi and Aram Village. These houses are MTV cribs worthy for sure.

Visit Ainkawa Christian Neighbourhood

What I like about Erbil is the mix of different people and religions. Ainkawa is a Christian suburb where you will see various churches and other Christian symbols.

In many middle eastern countries, alcohol is not allowed, but in Erbil, in the Christian areas, you will find many liquor stores. Muslims and Christians live happily together.

During Christmas times, you will even see many Muslims buying Christmas decorations for their house. I love this beautiful mixture of culture and traditions.

It is also one of the few areas where you can walk around more easily. You will need a car for most of the Erbil areas, but in Ainkawa, you can just wander around. It feels a bit more European.

Best restaurants in Ainkawa are Well Done Bowl (Asian), the Armenian Restaurant, and Manolo (Pizza). Both of them are next to the American Consulate area, which is also quite fascinating to see because of the gigantic walls and intense security.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/rASNL7iupXuNoH5f7

Relax at a rooftop pool

A kind of hidden location is the rooftop bar with a pool at the Erbil International hotel. I only found out about this place after living in Erbil for six months.

The entrance fee is relatively high, around 30 dollars, but it is one of the few locations where there is a pool. So, if you are looking for an excellent location to cool down, this is the place.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/ZdguqbbaxdMSo3v27

Have dinner at the Catholic University

My personal favorite location to have dinner is Erbil! This restaurant is part of the catholic university. It’s behind the university on a wide field of grass. The area has tables with enough space for at least a few hundred people.

The surroundings of the restaurant make you feel like you’re at a big wedding.

The food is incredible, and there is a very relaxed atmosphere.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/gSyUQVi8XV92ZhDu6

Festival on top of a mountain

If you have a car, a special area to visit is the Haibat Sultan Mountain near Koya, where several times a year a festival is held. This is one of those things that you would never be able to find during a holiday. It’s a rather secret location in an area that only a few tourists visit.

I’ve heard this festival is possible because it is being organized by one of the sons of the leader of the area. It’s awesome to see this kind of progressive event in Kurdistan.

It takes place during winter and summer time. It’s possible to camp on the festival site.

You will have to go through a checkpoint because you are leaving the Erbil area and entering an area that is being ruled by a different leader.

On the mountain you will also find this odd looking carnival. It looks like it hasn’t been used for a while. Perfect photo opportunity!

More info: https://www.avalanche.oceanic.krd

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/GGs6K5uNqWyxLvYg7

Final thoughts on the top 21 things to do in Erbil

For two years long, I’ve been living in this diverse, strange, and fascinating city.

Honestly, before I moved here, I had never heard of Erbil. Therefore, I came here open-minded, which is the best way, I think to approach a new city and a new culture.

I’ve learned a lot about this place on a cultural and political level but also as a tourist. Especially the amount of beautiful nature surprised me, and the friendliness of the local people.

While there is much more to do in and around Erbil (like visiting Newroz ) I hope this guide will help you to find out what to do in Kurdistan.

There are still many locations that are on my list that I want to explore; Shanidar Cave, Dukan Lake or the old Erbil Observatory.

Location Observatory: https://goo.gl/maps/AazssgemBepNzELA6

Location Shanidar Cave: https://goo.gl/maps/ysuZkfFJQkbTHJrK9

Location Dukan Lake: https://goo.gl/maps/kmYQJP9JPcSHZWQKA

Erbil is a very diverse city, and unlike other parts of Iraq, like Baghdad, it is very easy to visit. You can get a visa on arrival for around 70 dollars.

Nevertheless, countries like the USA still see Erbil as part of Iraq, which means that if you want to visit the USA after visiting Erbil, you might have to provide more documents about why you have visited Erbil. Please keep this in mind . For the latest info, check out the official page from the USA.

Things to buy in Erbil

Because Erbil is such a historic rich city there are many incredible items to buy in Erbil. 

The president of Iraqi Kurdistan is the Barzani Family. They are known for their red scarfs. On every market you can find these scarfs and buy them which is a typical Kurdish item.

Buy some old money! Around the citadel it is possible to buy old money from back in Saddam times. This is such an incredible unique item. One billet costs 1 dollar.

Another item are these incredible Middle Eastern lanterns. These lanterns are used to hang in front of the door of a house during events like Ramadan or Eid al -Adha. But they can also be used all year around.

Especially around the citadel you wil find many second hand and antique shops. Gold is relatively cheap and there are many hand crafted items to be found like a handcrafted carpet with beautiful colours. Don’t forget to bargain!

When is the best time to visit Erbil?

In my experience, the most pleasant temperatures are in the months of October until April/May . But, during wintertime, it can get quite cold! There were several nights when the temperature dropped below zero, and there was some snow as well.

Most houses don’t have central heating, only ACs that can produce warm air. This works fine, but the floor can get super cold; it will even hurt my feet if I’d walk on bare feet in the house.

During the short period of spring in March and April, the mountains and almost all of Erbil are green, lush, and vibrant. That’s the perfect time for hiking, I would say.

Where to stay in Erbil?

The most well-known hotels are Divan , Arjaan Rotana , and Hyatt . I recommend booking a room at one of the more known hotels for safety. Hyatt is located in one of the more fun areas where you have some international and local restaurants, and it is close to Gulan Mall.

These hotels are more expensive than many other options, but most buildings run on gas power generators and lack safety precautions.

Top 10 places to eat · The best restaurants in Erbil

After living in Erbil for two years, these are my top ten restaurants in Erbil. Making a reservation is unnecessary unless you want to go on Friday night, which is the most busy night.

Also, if you go around 6 or 7 pm, it will not be crowded, but after 7, it will be more challenging to get a table. You can wait in line at most restaurants until a table becomes available.

By the way! Ordering food and having it delivered to your door is also possible. Use the app Lezzo or Talabat and pay cash to the delivery guy. It works perfectly.

• CUE: Catholic University Erbil

My favorite location and number one of the best restaurants in Erbil.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/R7dyV16g5fCWJQCq9

• Kebab Yassin

Probably the most famous restaurant in Erbil.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/9ZiH3uC2Tg6QDetX6

• Dusk (Bar and snacks)

Amazing view!

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/17LvBVEpnWJTEQmM6

Great food and service, hectic, but that’s part of the experience.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/aSLSjNZDVyPnmvsE9

• Fuul w humous

Small restaurant but really tasty food.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/c2nU9s5QvFyaN2q77

• Gourmet Italiano

A surprisingly good Italian restaurant in Erbil!

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/bs6kthcrYLQ147KG7

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/1KcWLGRHkrcFozqr6

A more luxurious and slightly more expensive place, but it is one of the best places for beers and pizzas. Try the Quatro Fromage!

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/LLUyzaopxveXBNt69

• Well Done Bowl

The best Asian restaurant in Erbil, in my opinion.

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/iq9162gzNYPE68hX9

• Armenian Restaurant Nazeli

Located on the right of Well Done Bowl is an Armenian restaurant. They have some special meals.  

Location: https://goo.gl/maps/tbwJXKB6Lq8Tdmij6

Supermarkets in Erbil

Carrefour and the Holland Bazaar are the most well-known supermarkets in Erbil. There are a lot of these stores all around Erbil. You will find most of the Western products here imported from Europe or The States.

There are also many local supermarkets with cheaper prices.

Make sure to bring cash, cash is king!

Useful websites

Erbil Citadel: https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1437

Kurdistan Region: https://gov.krd/

Erbil Governorate: https://erbil.gov.krd/

Kurdish culture: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kurdish_culture

Iraqi Kurdistan tourism: https://bot.gov.krd/

History of Erbil: https://www.britannica.com/place/Erbil

Hopefully this comprehensive travel guide will help you to experience Erbil to its fullest.

If you have any questions about Erbil, please leave a comment!

F.A.Q. Best 21 Things to Do In Erbil (Travel Guide) · Iraqi Kurdistan

What’s special about Erbil?

Erbil is the capital of Kurdistan, a fascinating region with some of the friendliest people on earth. It is known for the old citadel which is one of the oldest inhabited places on earth.

Can I wear shorts in Erbil?

Wearing shorts or flip flops is no problem at all in Erbil. Although most people are dressed rather neat, wearing shorts is perfectly fine.

Do people speak English in Erbil?

Many Kurdish people speak English quite well. Especially at the bigger shops and hotels.

Is it cheap to visit Erbil?

Life in Erbil is rather “cheap”. The average wage per month is around 500 dollars. Flight tickets can be more expensive than other countries because there is a certain geopolitical instability. Airlines have to pay a higher fee for insurance and the supply in airlines is lower.

What is the Erbil Textile Museum?

The Textile Museum in Erbil is a small but fascinating museum that exhibits beautiful Kurdish textiles.

Chris Oberman is the creator of Moving Jack and has been traveling the world for over 20 years to 40+ countries.

He lives in a different country every two years which allows him to gain unique in-depth insights in places abroad.

Read more about the author.

• Iraq , Kurdistan

3 Responses

It is rather valuable piece

Leuk om te lezen Jack, heb de taxi app gedownload. We gaan volgende week, ik ben ontzettend benieuwd!

Hopelijk hebben jullie een mooie tijd gehad! 🙂

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Photography »

Travel tips.

35 Things To Know Before You Travel To Kurdistan Iraq in 2024

As part of my big trip through the Middle East I was excited to set foot in Iraq, well... Kurdistani Iraq of course! After my trip to Syria , Lebanon and Jordan, flying to Erbil, Iraq was a perfect stop on my itinerary, although I had to fly through Istanbul. In this Kurdistan blog I will tell you all about my experiences traveling to Kurdistan, Iraq.

Surely I could understand all the questions when I said I was going to visit Kurdistan Iraq. Most Westerns think Iraq is one of the most unsafe places to travel, but I already knew for quite a while that a trip to Kurdistan was not really risky or dangerous. I guess going off the beaten path is in my nature and traveling to these kind of destinations makes me excited.

In this Kurdistan travel blog I will give you as many travel tips as possible and also show you the best things to do and places to see, some background information and some accommodation tips. Find it all in this complete Kurdistan travel guide.

1. Is it safe to travel to Kurdistan Iraq

From my experiences is a trip to Kurdistan completely safe. Keep in mind that things can change overnight as this still is a conflict area. Although over the last years the Autonomous region of Kurdistan has been doing an amazing job to make Kurdistan safe for travelers.

The Kurdistan Tourism Board claims that in the first 6 months of 2018 over 1.3 million tourists had been traveling to Kurdistan, most of them being Iraqis.

My experiences traveling Kurdistan were very laid-back so when you ask me if it is safe to travel to Kurdistan, I say: YES!  The first couple days I spent in Erbil and felt completely safe. A laid-back city to roam around in. The city center is filled with friendly locals and in the Ankawa district you can go out till late and walk home safely. Erbil is safe to travel in 2024!

When you visit Kurdistan there is no need to worry about anything getting stolen. Kurdistan sees very little crime. You can leave your phone and bag on the table while you order locals say. I would personally never do that, but according to locals it is common to do and nothing ever happens.

I also rented a car and went on a 4-day road trip. Roads are actually pretty ok, but definitely watch out for unexpected speed bumps and so now and then some potholes on less maintained roads. I drove around Northwest Kurdistan but avoided Mosul. I did not come across any problems or unsafe situations whatsoever on my road trip. Language barriers are real though, but people are very friendly and super helpful. When traveling to Kurdistan a road trip if one of the best things to do.

Watch my Instagram Story videos here: Iraq 1 , Iraq 2 and Iraq 3 .

The last 3 days I decided to travel to Sulaymaniyah, the shared taxi was pretty convenient and as I was hosted by a local in Sulaymaniyah I even got to see the city from a locals perspective. Not a single time did I feel unsafe or uncomfortable.

2. Kurdistan Iraq history

It is quite impossible to write in brief about the Kurdistan Iraq history in this travel blog. This region of the world has been fought over since the days of Karel the Great and still is a place of conflict until today. Kurdistan has had an extremely turbulent past and only in the last 30 years already they had to deal with a genocide, war against the Saddam regime, multiple humanitarian crises, fighting for independency and only recently the war against ISIS of course.

In this blog I want to focus on Kurdistan travel tips rather than its turbulent history. Though one of the best things to do in Kurdistan is to visit the Amna Suraka Museum in Sulaymaniyah. Definitely don’t miss this when traveling to Kurdistan Iraq. It is an amazing history lesson!

3. Do I need a visa to travel to Kurdistan

Most Western countries can visit Kurdistan Iraq visa free. Your passport will get stamped on arrival and you are allowed to stay up to 30 days. This only counts for the autonomous region of Kurdistan, you are NOT allowed to travel to Iraq. These are the visa free countries:

Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, UAE, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iran, Ireland, Italy, Japan, Kuwait, Latvia, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Qatar, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Turkey, United Arabic Emirates United Kingdom, United States.

4. Is Kurdistan a real country

Kurdistan is NOT an official country! Kurdish people are considered the biggest ethnic group in the world without their own country. They are spread over 4 countries: Iran, Turkey, Syria and Iraq. Only in Iraq Kurdistan is considered an autonomous region. In Iran, Turkey and Syria Kurds don’t have a special status.

Kurdistan became an autonomous region within Iraq since 1998 and this status was reconfirmed in the Iraqi constitution in 2005.

5. Language in Kurdistan

The official language spoken in Kurdistan is Kurdish. It is related to Turkish and Farsi (Iran) and therefore many Kurds also speak Turkish. Most of them also understand/speak Arabic, but do rather not use the Arabic language.

Kurds and Arabs are not each others best friends, but live in peace together nowadays… let’s put it that way!

When traveling to Kurdistan you may want to download a translate app or use Google Translator as most local people don’t speak English at all. In touristy places, hotels, restaurants there is always someone that speaks good English though. The younger generation speaks pretty ok English.

6. Religion in Kurdistan

The majority of the Kurdish people are Sunni Muslims, like in Saoudi Arabia. That said it felt like Kurdistan was pretty liberal and not that conservative as in other places in the Middle East. There are also some minorities like Christians, Yazidis and Zoroastrians.

Steets will mostly be filled with men and you won't see that many women out on their own. In Sulaymaniyah things are changing slowly though and you see women out and about on the streeets. I know you are wondering... No you don't need to wear a head scarf as a woman!

7. Weather in Kurdistan

Be prepared for extreme temperatures when traveling to Kurdistan in summer. It can get up to 50 degrees celsius in July and August. Winters are short but cold and snowfall in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah occurs from time to time. The mountains see a lot of snow every winter.

8. Best time to travel to Kurdistan Iraq

The best time to visit Kurdistan is in spring and autumn when temperatures are moderate. Best months are March and April when the countryside is green and heavenly with waterfalls all around. October and November sees great weather with clear blue skies guaranteed.

When I was visiting in mid September it was still 35+ degrees (95+), nights were pretty nice with 22 degrees (71). Pretty damn hot during the day though so visiting the more mountainous areas was the best thing to do in Kurdistan at that time.

9. Money in Kurdistan

The local currency is the same as in Iraq: the Iraqi Dinar (IQD). The Iraqi Dinar has been very stable in the last 5 years and the going rate is around $1 USD = 1,200 IQD. It is wisely to bring at least some cash money as there are exchange offices everywhere and they charge only a small fee.

10. ATM’s in Kurdistan

International ATM’s are not common, so bringing some cash when traveling to Kurdistan is advisable. The cash machines at Erbil International Airport weren’t working on my arrival so again bring cash to exchange. Later I found a good working cash machine for Visa and MasterCard at Nobel Hotel in Ankawa.

Most ATM’s don’t accept international bank cards. Those who do sometimes limit the amount to $50,000 ($42). Pretty annoying as in my case I get charged $5 per transaction from my bank! This happened to me at Byblos Bank and therefore I would suggest you to not use that one.

11. Credit cards in Kurdistan

Most of the places I have been didn’t accept international credit cards. The car rental company did. I rented a car from Europecar and they accepted a credit card.

12. Buying a sim card in Kurdistan

Upon arrival at Erbil Airport you will find 4 shops selling sim cards straight away Korek, Asiacell, Zain and Fastlink. It is pretty simple to determine the best prepaid Kurdistan sim card for tourists as only Fastlink can offer you a 4G connections. Unforunately Korek, Asiacell and Zain only offer 3G and I can tell you that is not what you want in a modern age.

Buying a sim card at Erbil Airport is slightly more expensive, but easy, quick and convenient. However Fastlink is not open at night! :(

The downside of Fastlink is that it only works for internet so you can’t call or text. However I never do that anyway, so for me this Kurdistan sim card was the best one anyway. As I needed to buy a sim card in Erbil anyway to find to best deal for Fastlink Kurdistan I shopped around. There are uncountable phone shops but they offer different value.

A Fastnet sim card costs 10,000 IQD ($8.5) and I found a mobile phone shop that gave me 18 GB for 15,000 IQD ($12.5). Amazing deal and it worked absolutely amazing, 4G around the whole country.

13. Prices in Kurdistan

Traveling in Kurdistan is not super cheap. Budget hotels start from $30 per night and getting around is not cheap either. As there is no public transport, taxis are the way to go. Restaurants in Erbil charge around $6 for breakfast and lunch, dinner is around $8-$10 per person. A beer in a restaurant is around $2-$3, a cocktail or mix drink around $5.

When backpacking Kurdistan you will probably like to go to the cheaper local restaurants where you can already find shawarma and kebabs for $1. But you can also find skybars in Erbil where a beer is $7, but these places are rare.

14. Drinking alcohol in Kurdistan, Iraq

Since Kurdistan is predominately Muslim, most places in Kurdistan don’t serve alcohol, but especially in Erbil and Sulaymaniyah it is super easy to find alcohol and to get drunk.

In Erbil you will need to go to Ankawa, the Christian Quarter. Here you will find multiple liquor stores and also restaurants that serve alcohol. Beers in a liquor store cost $1 (Corona, Heineken, Efes, etc.). International hotels often have a license to sell alcohol as well, but are expensive.

In Sulaymaniyah finding drinks is like anywhere in Europe. Pretty much every bar/restaurant serves alcohol and prices are ok.

For some reason Kurdistan Iraq is one of those few countries in the world where Corona is the cheapest beer on the menu! Definitely a reason to travel to Kurdistan, right? ;)

15. Prostitution in Kurdistan

Yes, yes! You would probably not expect it from Kurdistan, Iraq but in Sulaymaniyah I found a red light district. Not that I got a taste of it, but I stumbled upon it and was very surprised to see decriminalised prostitution in Kurdistan. Not throwing it out here because I think it should be mentioned as a Kurdistan travel tip, just willing to take away misconceptions. Apparently Sulaymaniyah in Kurdistan Iraq is not that strict Muslim as we may think it is.

16. Tipping in Kurdistan

It is not super common to leave a tip in Kurdistan. Just paying the bill and leaving small change is normal practice and will already be appreciated. However the more popular places, especially were they serve alcohol they already add 10% tip to the bill.

17. Getting around Kurdistan

There is no organized public transport so when traveling around Kurdistan you will have to make use of taxis. The cheapest way to go from A to B are shared taxis who depart from several places around the city. If you for example want to get from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah then a shared taxi can be found from the Bagdhad Terminal in Erbil. A shared taxi from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah and the other way around cost 15,000 IQD ($13) for a back seat and 20,000 IQD ($17) for the front seat. It takes about 3-4 hours depending on traffic.

Getting around cities

Within cities it is best to grab a taxi and the going rate is somewhere in and between 2,000 ($1.5) and 5,000 ($4). From one side to the other in Erbil was 5,000 and it took about 25 minutes. Taxi drivers were friendly and easy going and never over charging.

From Erbil Airport to the city

Don’t take a taxi straight on arrival. These guys will charge you $30 set fare, although Ankawa for example is only 10 minutes by taxi. There are very limited taxis allowed at the arrival hall exit. But there is a bus you can take at the Arrival terminal. Almost everyone will take this bus, so follow the crowd. Then grab a taxi here that is dropping off passengers. In the middle of the night when taxis were very rare I found a taxi for only 8,000 IQD ($6.5) to my Airbnb in Ankawa.

Renting a car in Kurdistan

The best way to travel around Kurdistan is by renting a car. There are some really cool places to visit in Kurdistan, but it is fairly impossible to get there by shared taxi or public transport. Renting a car in Erbil was $60 per day and that was over the weekend, so I guess you can find it cheaper during the week.

18. Checkpoints Kurdistan

When traveling in Kurdistan you will have to go through to several checkpoints. It weren’t that many as I lately had on my trip to Syria but there are a few. You can mostly just pass by smiling and waving, although some want to see your passport. It is pretty easy and there is no need to worry for them when visiting Kurdistan. It is all about your attitude, just be smiley, be happy, these soldiers are mostly happy to see tourists in Kurdistan.

19. Kurdistan tour guide

There are a bunch of Kurdistan tour guides you can find online, but they are pretty expensive. When you are backpacking Kurdistan Im sure you don’t want to even approach them as they charge up to $150 a day for a guide/driver and when there are more people in the car they charge even more. STUPID!

When I inquired I was straight away put off by this practice as that shows it purely is a money making thing, not serving tourism. Some don't even have English speaking guides, so what is the point. So if you are looking for a Kurdistan tour guide, I am not the one to ask, because I think most of them are rip offs. At least the ones I have been in contact with.

I was lucky I got toured around in Sulaymaniyah by my online friend from Instagram (@baderkhanamerbadran) . I even stayed with his family and was treated like a family member. An amazing local experience!

20. Kurdistan tours

A great alternative is the Facebook Group called Rock Ur Bones . They organize Kurdistan tours and you can just join them. Most trips though are over the weekend, but I am sure that if you drop your request here some people are able to help. This Facebook group is amazing for ideas/inspiration for when you travel to Kurdistan, Iraq. Also great for when backpacking Kurdistan and looking for fellow travel buddies.

21. What to wear in Kurdistan

Kurdistan is predominantly Muslim and therefore for women it is advised to cover shoulders and knees at all times. Erbil is much more conservative than Sulaymaniyah and while going out in Sulaymaniyah I saw girls in skirts and heels, but only in high end bars and restaurants. As a woman you don't need to wear a head scarf like in Iran. In 2014 I travel there, it was amazing, check my Iran travel guide .

For local men it is not common to wear shorts, but for tourists it is totally excepted. I always wore my short jeans, a t-shirt and my flip flops. In Sulaymaniyah even some local young men were wearing shorts. I must say though that walking around the streets of Kurdistan Iraq I always felt underdressed. But since it was 35/105 degrees I couldn’t really be bothered.

22. Where to stay in Kurdistan

Finding accommodation when traveling in Kurdistan can be a pain. It is not that easy to book hotels online, especially outside the bigger cities. A Kurdistan travel tip is to go old school and find accommodation while on the road. During my Kurdistan road trip I found out it was very easy to book hotels/motels on the spot. Just walk in, ask for the price, see the room, negotiate and reserve. I think this is the best way to travel Kurdistan.

Couchsurfing Kurdistan

When backpacking Kurdistan I would suggest you to make use of Couchsurfing. I did not use Couchsurfing for more than 5 years, but because of a friend’s recommendation I tried it again on my trip to Kurdistan. It was a winner!!!! Wow what was I lucky with my couchsurfing host in Erbil. I ended up staying 4 nights with my host and afterwards we rented a car and went on a road trip together with another friend. We ticked off some of the most amazing things to do in Kurdistan, the road trip was epic!

In Sulaymaniyah I was equally over the moon as I got to stay with a local friend. Not directly through couchsurfing this time, but through Instagram. His family treated me like one of them and I got a real local Kurdistan experience. Thanks a million!

Airbnb Kurdistan

There are some great Airbnb places for the grab in Sulaymaniyah and Erbil but outside the cities there are very few options. I used Airbnb for several nights while traveling in Kurdistan.

Booking Kurdistan hotels online

The same counts for Kurdistan hotels on online booking sites. While on our road trip we hardly found hotels in Kurdistan online, but while driving through towns there were always a bunch of hotels or motels for the grab.

Booking.com

23. Things to do in Kurdistan

This Kurdistan travel guide wouldn’t be complete without the best things to do in Kurdistan. Northern Kurdistan is known for its amazing natural beauty with deep canyons, lakes and green mountains. On top of the places to visit in Kurdistan that I will mention in this travel blog there for sure are a bunch more but I want to focus on the main tourist attractions in Kurdistan.

24. Visit Erbil

Let’s start with the capital of Kurdistan: Erbil. As I said before I definitely liked hanging out in this city but I wouldn’t name it on my top 10 places to visit in the Middle East. Erbil is a typical Middle Eastern city where you find modern buildings next to outdated or unfinished buildings. Make sure to walk around the main square before sunset and feel the local vibe. Sit down in one of the cafes and have a tea or stroll through the bazaar.

Also see if you can arrange a visit to the Jalil Khayat Mosque and get a sneak peak inside: fabulous!

Another amazing place to watch the sunset when you travel to Erbil is the Loft skybar located at the International Hotel.

Watch my Instagram Story videos here: Iraq 1 .

The Erbil Citadel is a UNESCO World Heritage site but pretty disappointing to visit to be honest. There is no entrance fee so just walk in and see it for yourself. There is a stones & gems museum, and the Kurdish textile museum, which all ask $1 entrance fee. In the middle you will find an impressively huge flag of Kurdistan.

25. Visit Sulaymaniyah

The second biggest city in Kurdistan, Iraq is not so conservative as Erbil. It definitely is more open and feels much relaxer and more modern. Where in Erbil you will mostly only see men on the streets in Sulaymaniyah also groups of girls go out by themselves. It is still not really common, but slowly slowly it is becoming a much more open society.

When visiting Sulaymaniyah don’t miss the busy city center where you will find many markets with endless food stalls to sample from. Fresh fruits, crepes, nuts, tea and coffee bars, barbecue places and many more. It is best to visit in the evening when the streets are packed and people watching while sipping a traditional Kurdish coffee is one of the best things to do in Sulaymaniyah.

When visiting Sulaymaniyah make sure you don’t miss a sunset! There are numerous viewpoints around. Don’t miss the sunset from the Goizha Mountain where you can get by taking the cable car up. This is also where I am going to paraglide next time I visit Sulaymaniyah. Families gather along the ridge of the mountain and there are places where you can buy food and drinks.

My other favorite place to visit in Sulaymaniyah is the Roman amphitheater in the Hawary Shar Park with amazing mountains views.

All about my videos about visiting Sulaymaniyah can be found in my Iraq 3 Instagram stories .

26. Amna Suraka (Red) Museum Sulaymaniyah

This museum for sure is among the best places to visit in Kurdistan. Housed in the former intelligence office of the Saddam regime this is were you will find all about the recent Kurdistan history: the 1988 Anfall genocide, the days of the Saddam Hoessein regime and even about the war against ISIS. Prepare for an emotional journey as the Red Museum in Sulaymaniyah will give you goosebumps.

These are some of the photos I took from the Amna Suraka Museum in Sulaymaniyah. 

27. Rawanduz

This small mountain village is one of the best places to visit in Kurdistan when you love the outdoors. Surrounded by mountains and deep canyons there are a ton of viewpoints, one already 10 minutes walk on the North side of this sleepy little town. To get here you will need to rent a car, but it is definitely one of my Kurdistan travel tips to write down.

28. Barzan viewpoint

With this name you will most likely find the best thing to do in Kurdistan. I was so extremely excited when I got to see this place with my own eyes. Luckily it is not mentioned in all Kurdistan travel guides yet and it is not easy to find either. The Barzan viewpoint looks like the horseshoe bend in Arizona, but then better because there are NO tourists.

The viewpoint can be found north of Rezan just before a little town called Dore. You can find it on Google Maps (36.8938876, 44.1304754).

Watch my Instagram Story videos (Iraq 2) about Barzan Viewpoint here . You will see for yourself how this is one of the best places to visit in Kurdistan.

29. Deralok Canyon

Another place you should definitely write down on your list of things to do in Kurdistan is the gorgeous canyon of Deralok. You will have to drive on a dirt road until you can’t go any further. Then cross the small river and climb up a little hill till you get to a man-made canal. Walk on the ridge for a s long as you can into the canyon. On your left hand side you will see the river and waterfalls of this oasis.

Watch my Instagram Story videos (Iraq 2) about Deralok here .

A pretty damn amazing photo spot, but not so interesting in itself to be honest. I drove through Amedi, but didn’t see anything interesting. Amedi is a village situated on top of a small hill. There are some waterfalls around, which are super touristy. Find a nice restaurant on the West side of the town and have lunch with an amazing view over Amedi.

This is the most holy place in the Yazidi religion, their Mecca or Jerusalem. There are very few Yazidis in the world who practice this monotheistic religion. This unwritten religion is taught on for generations dating back to the ancient Mesopotamians. It is often described as very mysterious and I kind a can confirm that. In Lalish you can find the clear water source related to where the Noah’s Ark stranded. Everyone is allowed to visit Lalish, but I would recommend you to fix a guide as otherwise you will be walking around not knowing what is going on here. It was an emotional, but also a very spirital experience.

Hard to express in words, may better you watch my Instagram Story videos (Iraq 3) about Lalish and this mysterious religion. In the link you find more details about the (tragic) story of the Yazidis.

32. Shanidar Cave

Coincidentally I stumbled upon the Shanidar Cave while on my road trip and I feel very lucky I did.  When you travel to Kurdistan try to make it out here (36.8337579, 44.2209624). At first I was a little disappointed as there are a lot of fences around the cave because of an ongoing excavation project. There is no guide available but talk to the one of the archeologists and he/her will explain you that this is where they found the biggest group of Neanderthals remains in the world. Another reason to visit Kurdistan!

33. Sadam's Villa Amedi

Not really sure if I should mention Sadam's Villa nearby Amedi as one of the things to do in Kurdistan Iraq, but to me it was very interesting. It definitely is not a tourist attraction as it now is a military base for the Kurdish Army. While on our Kurdistan road trip we drove by to check it out and were friendly greeting by a man with a big gun. We had no clue it was a military base nowadays so we were a bit surprised. They let us in though, gave us a tour around the building and let us shoot some photos from the landscapes from the top of the building.

This is not a Kurdistan tourist attraction, but if you are adventurous then totally go and you might be lucky to be toured around. We were not allowed to take film and take photos in the building. Before we were told not to I filmed a little bit with my GoPro.

34. Shaqlawa

A small village in and between two hills just north of Erbil. It is a popular place to visit in Kurdistan  on a weekend trip. Shaqlawa has some restaurants with good views and some hiking trails to the top of the hills. I wasn’t that impressed to be honest, but some Kurdistan travel guides rave about it. There is a female run bakery that serves delicious sweets too.

35. How to get to Kurdistan

There are two international Airports with direct flights to Europe: Erbil International Airport and Sulaymaniyah International Airport. This is the best way to get to Kurdistan, but you can also travel overland from either Turkey or Iran.

I hope all the above Kurdistan travel tips were useful for your next trip to Northern Iraq. Apart from all the amazing things to do and places to see in Kurdistan I have to thank the people of Kurdistan just as much. These warm hearted people made my trip one to never forget! Thank you for your amazing hospitality and your endless smiles.

I will definitely travel to Kurdistan again and will then continue my trip into Iran crossing the border overland. But that is something for 2024. I will definitely be back traveling in Kurdistan again.

I have traveled to almost all countries in the Middle East now. Syria was definitely one of my favorite trips. Click here for the best things to do in Syria .

Curious about more of my trips? Since December 2012 I am traveling the world continuously and have now been to more than 155 countries as of January 2024.

Interested how travel bloggers afford to travel the world  then click on the link to read my story.

Enjoy your trip to Kurdistan and thank you for reading my Kurdistan travel blog. 

Erbil Travel Guide

For the more adventurous travelers, Iraqi Kurdistan is sure to be on their bucket list. With the gradual return of stability to Iraqi and visa-free schemes for Kurdistan, travel has never been easier. While tourism is growing in Erbil and surrounding areas, Kurdistan is left ultimately untouched. Therefore, traveling to Kurdistan allows the unique opportunity to journey to the unknown and experience true Kurdish culture. On the other hand, due to the lack of amenities and infrastructure, travel can prove to be quite difficult. Here is an overview of what you need to know to start your holiday in Iraqi Kurdistan!

You can find information on Akre , Lalish , and Rawanduz here!

Erbil International Airport

After getting your passport stamped, travelers will then walk out to the arrivals portion of the airport. Here are many stalls providing car services, sim cards, and currency exchange. ATMs often do not work in Kurdistan and if your flight arrives late at night the money exchange at the airport will already be closed. Fortunately, many taxi drivers accept US dollar and Euro. There is no free wi-fi in the airport, the only option would be to approach the coffee stand in arrivals to ask for their password. There is also no public transportation to or from Erbil International Airport. It would be advisable to arrange for your taxi beforehand. In my case, I had to pay the whopping price of 25 USD to be taken a mere 6km.

Departing from Erbil International Airport is a little bit strange as well. Your taxi will drop you off at a separate building from the actual terminal. Here is where the first round of security checks will take place. After being cleared, passengers will then board a shuttle bus which will take them to the departures hall of the airport.

Where to Stay

Hostels are currently nonexistent in Erbil. After talking to some locals, there are dormitories available for less than a dollar. However, this kind of accommodation is not advertised and are located in more decrepit parts of town. Hotels found online usually start at around 15 USD a night. In my case, I stayed at the Madera Hotel , costing 24 dollars a night. The hotel, while rundown, is staffed by incredibly hospitable employees and is located only 1km from the citadel.

Ankawa-The Christian District

Ankawa and the surrounding districts of Vital City and Dream City are the flourishing business/expat neighborhoods of Erbil. Those travelers wanting to stay in a more liberal environment with various restaurants, bars, and clubs, this area is for you. Since the US embassy is located in this district, Ankawa is also incredibly safe. The only drawback is that these areas are located near the airport, leaving them 6km away from the cultural center near the citadel.

What to do in Erbil

The Citadel

The cultural center of Erbil is, without a doubt, The Citadel. The Erbil Citadel and the city’s history is closely linked, with a history dating back before the Assyrian Empire. The current appearance of the walls and buildings are reflective of the Ottoman period, however. The Southern section of the Citadel is largely rebuilt while other parts of the wall are still left partially collapsed. To this day, The Citadel still dominates the Erbil skyline. Its presence is further amplified with the presence of a huge flag pole placed in the heart of the castle.

The interior of the citadel is currently being renovated, with many districts being closed off while restorations are being completed. After entering the citadel there is little to do, only a textile and gem museum to entertain tourists. The only other site of historic relevance is the Qalla mosque, located near the center of the citadel.

The Bazaars

The entirety of the area south of the Erbil Citadel is many sprawling bazaars spilling over into each other. The recently remodeled Qaisary Bazaar, located to the south-west, is the most famous. This market offers anything from souvenirs and golden jewelry to pesticides and gardening equipment. Nearby you will also find the electronics market where you can purchase a sim card for a reduced price.

Sheikh Allah Bazaar is located to the South-East of the Citadel. Here one will find various fruits and vegetables for sale. Compared to the other markets, there is more of an abundance of street kids, selling plastic bags and being paid to carry around customers shopping in wheelbarrows. There is also a large currency exchange market, although it looks quite unreliable. For those wanting the best rate, it is recommended to go to the Family Mall.

Visiting a Gun Shop

The once infamous black market in Erbil has been closed since 2016 . With the fall of the Islamic State, the local government saw the need to control the buying and selling of arms. While the military market is closed, you still have the opportunity to check out one of the last operating gun sellers in Erbil (that I know of). This gun shop is located in a small market just east of the park in front of the citadel, housing various camera and tool repair shops. The owner was indifferent to a tourist gawking at his machine guns and RPGs being promptly displayed in his shop and was even open for taking photos.

Some other sites popular within Erbil are the Minaret Park and Jalil Khayat Mosque. For more info on things to do in and around Erbil click here !

Getting Outside of Erbil

Buses are a bit difficult to come by in Erbil. All intercity transportation departs from the Erbil International Terminal near the Family Mall. From here, you can find shared taxis taking you to all corners of the country, including Mosul. Haggling is a must with the taxi drivers. Fortunately, with multiple passengers they are less inclined to try and cheat you.

For a list of fares and more travel information click here !

Some of the most popular places to do day trips from Erbil is Akre , Lalish , and Rawanduz !

While leaving Erbil may be easy, getting back will end up being a bit more expensive. Unless you are in a major city, hailing a shared taxi with be difficult. Also, when visiting destinations such as Lalish or Saint Matthews Monastery there is no choice but to hire a private taxi. When doing so be sure not to pay the full amount of the fare before the end of your journey. In my case, I paid a driver to take me to Lalish, Saint Matthews Monastery, and Akre for the sum of a hundred dollars. I tried to pay half up front and half at the end of the trip, but the driver refused. Being on the side of the road in Iraq, I took a chance and paid him up front. Later on, he informed me we couldn’t visit the Monastery since the Iraqi Army was currently in the region fighting ISIS. While I had no problem with this, it did take off a destination on the itinerary. Obviously, I would expect some of the money to be returned to me. The man refused. Eventually, I found some lovely Arab men from Baghdad to help me translate with him. Calling him a theft and that he was shaming his people was not enough to sway his mind. I was consoled by the translators, being told that this is a Kurdish trick which they have fallen victim to in the past as well.

Many of these cab drivers will also try and squeeze more money out of you after reaching your destination. They will find excuses such as complaining about traffic or the road being bad. It is best to stay firm and pay the original price which you had agreed on.

Overall, the Kurdish people are some of the most hospitable I have ever met in all my travels. On my first day in Erbil, many shop owners wouldn’t take my money, giving me drinks for free. Roadside workers, seeing me pass by, offered me their hats to shade me from the sun. Many other locals offered me to sit down with them and eat together. Unlike other countries, I did not feel gawked at for being a foreigner. The hospitality of the Kurds was truly genuine. When seeing your camera, many people in the bazaar will ask you to take a picture of them and their shops. Even the street kids, pushing sticks of gum at you, will eventually give it to you for free after talking to them for a while. Despite the scams by the taxi drivers, Kurds truly are some of the most welcoming people on the planet.

Is Iraqi Kurdistan Safe?

Contrary to what many may think, Iraqi Kurdistan is extremely safe. Numbers show that in recent years there have been more terrorist attacks in France than there has been in Kurdistan. Despite this, it is important to note that you are still entering a war zone. I was unable to travel to certain regions due to military operations being taken against ISIS. During my stay, there was even an attack on a government building in Erbil . This attack, however, is considered extremely rare in the capital.

As a foreigner traveling in Kurdistan, your safety is a top priority by the local police, Peshmerga, and the Asaije. The Peshmerga are the Kurdish military which maintains safety in Kurdistan. By law, the Iraqi Army are not allowed to enter the borders of Kurdistan. The various checkpoints on the highways are all operated by the Peshmerga. The Asaije is a kind of army reserve, which act as a police force in cities throughout Kurdistan. Many taxi drivers are also a part of the Asaije. If you are concerned about your safety, you can always ask if the driver is Asaije or not before getting in the vehicle.

Traveling to Kurdistan was an amazing, eye-opening experience. As a traveler, you are truly experiencing and documenting places that are untouched by tourism. Despite my grievances with the taxi drivers, the Kurds were extremely hospitable, making me feel truly welcome in their country. Kurdistan is about as off the beaten path as one can go. For those looking for adventure and an experience that will last a lifetime, Iraqi Kurdistan awaits you!

Related Posts

East Asia , Orphaned Nation , Taiwan , What To Do In Hsinchu

Hsinchu City Dragon Boat Festival 新竹市端午龍舟賽

Historic Hsinchu State Library 新竹州圖書館

East Asia , Hsinchu , Orphaned Nation , Taiwan , What To Do In Hsinchu

Hsinchu Image Museum (新竹市文化局影像博物館)

Visiting Lalish Temple: Holiest Site of the Yazidis - ORPHANED NATION August 9, 2018 @ 6:24 am

[…] Want more travel tips of Kurdistan? Click here! […]

Places to visit in Kurdistan Iraq: 2-week itinerary

By Joan Torres 19 Comments Last updated on May 3, 2024

Wanna travel to Iraqi Kurdistan with Against the Compass?

Join a group of like-minded travelers in our next scheduled tour in Iraqi Kurdistan:

March 17th to 23rd, 2025

What can I say about Kurdistan that I haven’t already said?

Despite being such a tiny, unknown region located in the heart of the Middle East and belonging to an Arab country named Iraq – which has been in the most absolute chaos and war for the last couple of decades – Iraqi Kurdistan is a land with incredible touristic potential and plenty of amazing sites:

From dramatic and mind-blowing mountain scenery to historical villages, archaeological sites and just crazy adventures.

After scrolling down to the end of the article, I am sure that you will be more than surprised, if not excited to make a trip to this remote and off-beat region which has remained extremely safe for the last few years.

This article shows you all the places to visit in Iraqi Kurdistan , which I have split into a 2-week itinerary.

In this Iraqi Kurdistan itinerary you will find:

Table of Contents

Day 1, 2 – Erbil

• Day 3 – Visit a Syrian refugee camp

Day 4, 5 – Sulaymaniyah

• Day 6 – Halabja & Ahmadawa

Day 7, 8 – Aqrah

• Day 9, 10 – Soran & Rawandiz
• Day 11, 12 – Amedi

Day 15 – Lalish

• More information

our recommended travel insurance for Iraq

IATI Insurance is one of the very few that covers travel in Iraq.

Why visit Kurdistan

There is no single week when my email inbox does not get swamped with, at least, a couple of emails from great travelers who wish to go to Kurdistan, yet, aren’t entirely sure about their safety, meaning that they are a little bit afraid.

It’s perfectly understandable.

I was also a little bit afraid the first time I went there, back in 2016 but, during my second visit in 2018, having more knowledge about the region, I was not worried at all and truth is that I was more afraid of getting robbed or assaulted when I went to Mexico in January 2018 than hitchhiking and camping in random places around Kurdistan. True story.

Kurdistan is a volatile region, nobody can deny that but, it has been safe for the last few years. If you want to know more, read: Is it safe to travel to Iraq?

On the other hand, despite being safe, Kurdistan may not be a country for everybody.

You should know that there is very little tourist infrastructure and, whether we like or not, it is a military country, with endless checkpoints and occasional random restrictions on foreigners.

During my trip, I was once arrested by the Peshmergas, I was forced to camp on the outskirts of a town because I couldn’t find a hotel and, on many occasions, I had to hitchhike because there was no public transportation and taxis there were very expensive.

However, if you are not sure about traveling independently, many people travel around with a local guide.

If you want to read my personal experience, check: Tales of backpacking in Iraqi Kurdistan: What it is like

What to visit in Iraq Kurdistan – 2-week itinerary

Interested in Iraq proper? Then, read how to travel to Mosul

Most likely, your Kurdistan itinerary will start in Erbil.

However, from an efficiency point of view, it would be better to start in Sulaymaniyah. The city has an international airport, so if you find any cheaper flight, perhaps you should fly in there.

Nevertheless, it is just a couple of hours from Erbil , so it won’t be a big deal if you fly to the capital instead.

If you are crossing into Iraq from Iran , Sulaymaniyah may also be your first destination. That’s what I did.

Anyways, let’s assume you start your journey from Erbil.

Read: Solo female travel in Kurdistan

Map of the 2-week itinerary in Kurdistan

Erbil is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan and it will be the capital of the whole Kurdistan, including land currently in Turkey, Syria , and Iran , if Kurdistan ever becomes an independent state.

It is one of the oldest cities in the world, experts claim that first remains date back from the 28th century BC; today, however, Erbil is a pro-Western, modern capital.

From Erbil’s Citadel, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site, to the Christian district of Ankawa and plenty of bazaars and epic teahouses, you are going to love Erbil and wish to have more days to spend there.

Top things to do in Erbil

I wrote a full city guide, which you can read here: Things to do in Erbil, a complete guide

Where to stay in Erbil

Budget Hotel –   Fareeq  – This hotel is slightly more expensive than the previous one but it can be booked online and it’s better. It has a good location and comments from everybody are just great.

Nicer –   Erbil View Hotel  – A very-well rated hotel and the perfect mid-range option. Good breakfast and awesome staff.

Day 3 – Visiting a Syrian refugee camp

One of the most rewarding travel experiences I ever had, not to say the best, was visiting a Syrian refugee camp.

Being able to help, even if it was on a very small scale, those people who are directly suffering the worst humanitarian crisis from the 21st century, was seriously amazing, to the extent that I just can’t explain it in words.

I went to the local bazaar to buy a huge load of toys and distributed them among as many children as I could.

I ran out of toys in a matter of minutes and dude, it was beautiful…

As you may imagine, there are many refugee camps across the region but I went to Darashakran, as you don’t need to apply for any special permit.

That was in back in 2016 but, in 2018, I also tried to visit the camp in Aqrah but, unfortunately, you do need a special permission to get there, so I couldn’t get in.

Anyways. Visiting one of those camps is a must thing to do in Kurdistan, so if you want to read my full story, check:  Visiting a Syrian refugee camp in Iraq

How to get to Darashakran from Erbil

As you can see in the above map, Darashakran is around 45km north of Erbil. There is obviously, no public transportation, but you need a car.

You could try but I personally wouldn’t go in a regular taxi, basically, because it is recommended to enter with a local friend, as he will have to talk to the military standing in front of the gates and I doubt a random taxi driver will know what is going on, if that makes sense.

Just try to find an English-speaking guide or a friend. You can ask your hotel or on Couchsurfing.

Read: Independent travel in Iran – 1 to 4-week itinerary

If the open-mindedness of Erbil surprised you, especially after strolling down the streets of Ankawa, only to see liquor shops, churches and quite some expats everywhere, be prepared when you get to Sulaymaniyah, because this is the most westernized city in Iraqi Kurdistan and, of course, in Iraq.

Despite being a predominantly Sunni Muslim city, you won’t see many women wearing hijab but, what surprised me the most is that in all the bars I went into, I always saw mixed groups of both local women and men, something rarely seen in the Middle East.

By the way, you will see that everybody pronounces and writes the city name in a different way: Sulaymaniyah, Slemani, Suli, As Sulaymaniyah, Sulemani, etc. Don’t ask me why.

Top things to do in Sulaymaniyah

Red Security Museum (Amna Suraka) – A must. Basically, this is Saddam Hussein’s House of Horrors. It portrays, in a very sobering way, the genocide against the Kurds when Saddam Hussein’s regime invaded Kurdistan.

The museum is in what used to be the headquarters of Saddam’s regime and you can still see some of its military tanks and weaponry, as well as the cells where they locked up the Kurds. Moreover, there is a brand-new Islamic State horror section.

Main bazaar – Of course, you can’t miss the city’s bazaar.

Mount Goyzha – A very popular spot among locals, this is a viewpoint from where you get the most amazing views of the city.

Where to stay in Sulaymaniyah

Backpacker Hostel – Dolphin – The only hostel in Iraq is in Sulaymaniyah. Basically, all backpackers stay here. The Wi-Fi is great and the owner organizes different tours and activities.

Nicer – Khan Saray – Top mid-range option in town. Great location and facilities and a super value-for-money option.

Luxury –   Ramada by Wyndham  – Apparently, this was the first 5-star hotel in Iraq and, today, the best one in Sulaymaniyah.

How to get to Sulaymaniyah from Erbil

Despite being quite close to each other, all buses and taxis take the longer mountain route, basically because the fastest road passes by Kirkuk, a not very safe city and, in any case, off-limits for tourists.

The longer route takes a couple of hours.

Local shared taxis – They cost 15,000ID (12.50USD)

Mini-vans – They cost 10,000ID (8.40USD). They are much slower though, especially because they take time to get filled.

Day 6 – Halabja and Ahmadawa

Halabja and Ahmadawa are within Sulaymaniyah’s district and can be visited on a day trip, even by public transportation.

In 1988, during the Iran-Iraq war , the Iranians took over a small town named Halabja and, in response, Saddam Hussein organized a massive attack with the use of chemical weapons, which killed thousands of people in a matter of seconds, mainly Kurds.

The attack was condemned by many worldwide tribunals as a crime against humanity and a real genocide.

Today, Halabja is just a normal town where you find a memorial to the victims of the attack and a museum, which is nothing else than Saddam Hussein’s House of Horrors Part 2.

The museum is at the entrance of the city and it opens from 9am to 12pm and from 13pm to 5pm.

How to get to Halabja – From the terminal in Suli, local shared taxis cost 6,000ID (5USD) per person.

Ahmadawa is a mountain village and a major local tourist spot, the top attraction being a waterfall. It’s around 30km from Halabja and I think the best way is to hitchhike.

It took me around 3 rides to get to the village and, from there, the waterfall is just a couple of kilometers away.

The trail that goes up to the waterfall is filled with tourist shops and cafés.

It is nothing outstanding but I find interesting to visit crowded touristic sites in Iraq .

How to go back to Sulaymaniyah

You need to hitchhike back to a larger town named Khurmal, just a few kilometers after Ahmadawa. There is a tiny taxi station but, if it’s late in the afternoon, around 4 or 5pm, there may not be taxis to Suli. Instead, I took a shared taxi to Sadiq Said (2,000ID) and, from there, I paid 3,000ID for a direct one to Suli.

Surrounded by beautiful nature and composed of a good-looking old city and houses, Aqrah (or Akre) is a pretty, photogenic town and one of the most beautiful places to visit in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Its history is a bit uncertain and I never found much information about it, but it’s a pleasant place to walk around and meet some nice locals.

I actually met there a very interesting man named Ramzi, a 50-something-year-old dude who had lived in Austria for many years, yet, he had to come back because Saddam Hussein threatened to kill his family if he didn’t come back. He also told me a recent sad story about the Islamic State killing his brother, in revenge because he was working as a translator for the Americans. If you want to know more about him, read my Tales of Iraqi Kurdistan .

Ramzi is a man with many interesting, yet sobering, stories to tell and it turns out that he also works as a guide in Aqrah. You can contact him at +9647507560154.

I don’t know if he will remember me but you can tell him my name and nationality, no problem. I met him in April 2018 and I am the guy who was, for no reason, kicked out from the Aqrah Refugee Camp director’s house.

If you say this, perhaps he will remember me.

In Aqrah, I just walked around the old city and hung out with Ramzi, who also showed me around. There are plenty of hiking opportunities as well, including a few hours walk to an ancient Christian monastery but I just stayed in the village.

Where to stay in Aqrah

Well, in Aqrah, I actually camped just outside of the city. The locals told me about two hotels, both of them shown on maps.me , but they were closed.

Then they told me that there was a third one named Azadi, which should be open but it was too far and it was already too late, so I just planted my tent in front of a grocery shop and left early in the morning. This Azadi Hotel is right next to the Aqrah refugee camp. Here: 36.73196, 43.869507

How to get to Aqrah

If you are in Suli, you will first need to go to Erbil and, from Erbil, there are local shared taxis that charge 10,000ID (8.40USD) per person. By the way, the road from Erbil to Aqrah passes by Darashakran refugee camp and we actually stopped there to pick up one Peshmerga.

Day 9, 10 – Soran and Rawandiz

Home to the most dramatic mountain scenery, composed of lush green valleys, high mountains, and epic roads that go through them, Soran is a relatively big town, not very interesting to be honest, but the base to go to Rawandiz, a tiny settlement built at the edge of a striking cliff that forms an even more striking canyon.

This place is seriously impressive, mind-blowing and drop-dead gorgeous, like nowhere else you have seen in the region.

Once you are in Soran, you should quickly get to Rawandiz, which is about 7km. You can hitchhike or pay a 5,000ID taxi.

Just hang around, meet friendly locals and go to the edge of the village to see the cliff. Then, get out of town in the opposite direction of Soran, towards Bekhal waterfall, another spot crowded with local tourists. You will have to hitchhike because it is quite far. The location is on maps.me .

The waterfall is all right but if you continue for one more kilometer, you will find a very random beer shop and, in my opinion, the best perspective and view of Rawandiz Canyon. Just buy a beer and enjoy the views. I also continued walking for a few more kilometers and got other beautiful views as well.

Rawandiz is one of the best places to visit in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Where to stay in Soran

In Rawandiz, you only find expensive resorts and hotels but, in Soran, there is a budget hotel named Zagros Hotel , very close to the center in the main roundabout. It was pretty decent and they were asking for 20,000ID but I bargained it down to 15,000ID. This was the location: 36.654925, 44.539426.

How to get to Soran

From Aqrah, there are direct shared taxis which cost 10,000ID.

Day 11, 12 – Amadiya

Amadiya (or Amedi) is my most favorite place in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Basically, it is a 5,000-year old village located on the top of a flat mountain, super gorgeous, and the ancient stone gate to the village is still there, very well-preserved.

Amedi is rather small but there are plenty of things to do around, like hiking to the surrounding peaks to see the village from above because, otherwise, you can’t really appreciate its composition.

The village has been inhabited by several civilizations, including Persians, Christians, Jews and Assyrians and, today, it is a Muslim Sunni village, even though there are a few Christians living there, as there is one liquor store.

For more information, read my guide to visit Amadiya

Where to stay in Amadiya

There are no hotels inside the village but outside, a few kilometers away.

I actually asked a random dude if there was any guesthouse close by and he said that I could stay in the mosque, as many visitors are actually welcome there, so that’s what I did.

I went to the mosque and they told me that I could just lie on the carpet, right next to the entrance, no problem. However, when I had my sleeping bag already set up, some local students came and invited me to their student house, so I was very lucky.

How to get to Amadiya

I came straight from Soran, which is 170km away if you follow the mountain road.

There was, however, no public transportation or shared taxis and, according to a local, you should take a shared taxi to Dohuk and, from there, to Amadiya, which is a very long and expensive route.

Instead, I left the hotel very early in the morning and hitchhiked the 170km mountain road, which took me the whole day, as the road goes through loads of tiny villages, so had to take around 10 different rides, but I made it there just before the sunset.

By the way, on the way to Amadiya from Soran, there is a village called Barzan , which is the hometown of Mustafa Barzani , a national hero and one of the most prominent political Kurds ever.

In Barzan, you can find his tomb (he died in 1979) and memorial, which is also a very popular spot among locals. I was very lucky that one of the families I hitchhiked with wanted to stop there for lunch.

Day 13, 14 – Dohuk

Dohuk is the third city in Kurdistan and a transit spot for people going to and coming from Turkey.

To be honest, I feel that there is not much going on in Dohuk, especially if this is your last destination. I didn’t do much, besides wandering around to the old bazaar, which is very big, but I have already seen hundreds of bazaars around the world .

There is also a river which takes you to a dam and an artificial lake, the top tourist attraction in the city. It was a bit boring.

By the way, on the way from Amadiya to Dohuk, you can stop at one Saddam Hussein’s many summer houses , which is on the top of a mountain from where you get incredible views.

How to get to Saddam Hussein’s summer house

First, you need to go to a village named Sarsang, which is right in between Amadiya and Dohuk. From here, you take a 14-kilometer mountain road that takes you straight to the house. There is no public transportation and a round-trip taxi was charging too much, so I decided to hitchhike.

However, it was raining a lot and, after one hour, no cars passed by so I decided not to go, especially because it was too foggy anyways, so couldn’t have enjoyed the views. If you come on a weekend, you may be luckier.

Where to stay in Dohuk

Budget Hotel – Parleman Hotel – There are some budget hotels around the bazaar but they can’t be booked online. I actually Couchsurfed there but Parleman Hotel is the only one I’ve heard of.

Nicer – Kristal Hotel Dohuk – This is the most frequented hotel by most mid-range travelers.

How to get to Dohuk

I hitchhiked from Amedi, stopped at Sarsang village to see if I could go to Saddam’s House and then took a second ride.

If you don’t want to hitchhike, from Amedi you can take a shared taxi which costs 6,000ID. If you are in Erbil, you can easily find both buses and taxis.

The last day is reserved for the weirdest and most peculiar place in Kurdistan: Lalish.

Have you ever heard of Yazidism?

Yazidis are a religious group who mainly live across the Middle Eas t, the Caucasus, Turkey, and Russia but Iraq has the largest population.

Their religion is monotheist and it is a mix of Zoroastrianism, Islam, Christianism, and Judaism. It is a bit complicated so I don’t want to enter into details and I don’t really know it anyways.

One of their holiest places is Lalish, a tiny village in Iraqi Kurdistan which has a very holy Yazidi temple.

The first thing you need to know about Lalish is that you can’t wear shoes but you need to walk around barefoot. At the entrance of the village, there is a police checkpoint and they tell you to leave your shoes there.

However, Lalish is not like those mosques which have very soft floors.

It is a village and the streets of Lalish are unpaved, full of rocks and very hilly.

Yazidis have many curious things. For example, they have one ancient ritual which consists of hugging a very ancient tree and, if you are able to surround it completely and touch your fingers, it means that you will find your true love. If not, you may die alone.

I was actually not only able to touch my fingers but could grab my own hands and, apparently, this means that I will have 4 or 5 wives at the same time. I don’t know, that’s what they told me.

Where to stay in Lalish

There are no hotels. I came here on a day trip from Dohuk.

How to get to Lalish

There is no public transportation either. You’ll have to hitchhike again. I personally took a taxi till the edge of Dohuk and hitchhiked from the highway. Luckily, people like to stop very quickly.

More information for visiting Iraqi Kurdistan

📢 In my Travel Resources Page you can find the list of all the sites and services I use to book hotels, tours, travel insurance and more.

Don’t forget to check our travel guide to Iraq.

As well as all our Iraq articles:

• A City Guide to Mosul
• Visiting Syrian Refugee Camp
• Is Iraq Safe?
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraq
• Iraq Itinerary
• Erbil Travel Guide
• Tales of Backpacking in Iraqi Kurdistan
• Solo Female Travel Guide to Iraqi Kurdistan
• Travel Guide to Amedi
• Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

19 comments

I love your itinerary. We spent 10 days in Iraqi Kurdistan and it was SO worth it. Like you, we went with a guide, and we agree that Karwan Wahed is fabulous. He really put a lot of thought into our itinerary; we visited places that he customized to our interests.

Anyway, I’d like to mention that although it’s easy to backpack through the region, there are advantages to hiring a private guide. One is that they manage all the transportation. Karwan also negotiated cheaper hotel rates than what they had posted. But the primary reason we like to use local guides is that they know the language and culture. You miss a lot when you can’t interact with the locals.

Thanks for the super useful post, Joan. I’m planning on spending two or so weeks there this fall after travelling in Iran, and your recommendations are great.

Safe travels!

thanks, enjoy Iran and Kurdistan!

This is all very useful info! Planning my Kurdistan trip right now. Little question, are there numerous shared taxis throughout the day to the various destinations?… and do they run into the later afternoon? Or do I need to be careful and time my travel by shared taxi carefully?

Thanks for taking the time and sharing!

Hey Conrad! Yes, they run all day long and they leave when they are full. Sometimes you wait for 5 minutes, whereas others you wait for like half an hour. What is late afternoon for you? They start early morning and I once took one at around 8pm for going to Suli. I guess it depends on the destination you go to. If you go to a village such as Amadiya, the last one may be earlier

I’m planning a bike travel in late April to Kurdistan. The itinerary could be: Erbil-Soran-Rawanduz-Barzan-Amadia-Barzan-Aqra-Erbil, perhaps combining shared taxi with biking. Around 11 days. Could you help me with some issues? 1) Aqra and especially Lalish are near Mossul troublesome area.Are this villages safe for foreigners? 2) It seems traffic is heavy in some roads. Any comment about the issue or the itinerary? 3)I’ve seen only a shop in Erbil to rent bikes, maybe you know some more information about rent a bike (better mtb). Best wishes, Eduard Bernadich i Campreciós Catalunya PD(catalan): molt interessants els teus viatges, l’enhorabona Joan. Moltes gràcies per endavant

Bon dia Eduard, Thanks for your message. My replies: 1 – They are super safe 2 – Not that I can recall of. In fact, the roads were pretty trafficless, except nearby the cities of course 3 – I don’t know of any rental bike shop, sorry! Salut company i gràcies!

Hi, I am currently travelling by bike around Iraqi Kurdistan. The route you mentioned is the most beautiful one, mesmerizing landscape and super welcoming people. Wild camping is not possible… there is always someone who will came invite you to your place so be prepared to feel the kurd hospitality.

It is completely safe, lot of checkpoints but no problem at all. If you want more detailed information about the route i followed (road bike, lot of hills) you can write to me (català cap problema) to [email protected]

P.S (catalan): Molt bon blog, informació molt útil. Gràcie!

Hi Joan! I wish I had seen your website sooner. I am afraid I haven’t enough time to prepare for the March Expedition of Kurdistan. I was in Mosul, Iraq in 2004-2005 (not pleasure, I was in U.S. Army). I lived with, trained, and fought next to several Kurds while there, and I fell in love with them. They are so kind and sincere. I have visited Dohuk and the short trip from desert Mosul to mountain Oasis is something I will never forget. In any case, if I can not arrange to take this excursion, your website is BOOKMARKED! Very interesting. Thank you for your time, Brian Bauer

Hey Brian, thank you for telling us about your experience, I am sure you have amazing tales to tell 🙂 Hope you can join us in one of the expeditions one day!

Hello Brian,

I’m Sirwan, from kurdistan, I would be glad to chance meet you and do hospitality in our beautiful region, things much changed since your last visit, you can’t believe how big and beautiful Duhok city behind the mountains right.

Let me know, if you have any plans for visiting.

Oh Sirwan, it was such a difficult time and place to be, Mosul. The only fond memories I have are the wonderful Kurdish people, and the desert night sky. Both hold a special place in my heart. I pray for you people daily!

Destroying a Prosperous country through your filthy conspiracies, wars, and sinister plans and then having the shameless dare of visiting the same land under the guise of tourism in order to spy and achieve your sinister objectives doesn’t make you a friend or loyal to us Muslims of the World.

All of you useless brainwashed ignorant terrorist westerner spies disguised as tourists whole position and value is absolutely nothing more than that of a ordinary visitor so keep your mouth shut, complete your spying i.e. so called visit and get lost never to come back again. You have no right to unnecessary meddle into the internal matters of our countries plus it’s simply none of your business what happened in the past, what’s currently going on, and what will happen in the future in our Muslim lands.

Keep your BS agenda in your filthy head and go deal with the mess in your own lawless craphole. SMH

Thanks for the tip for that random beer shop near Rawanduz. Wouldn’t have noticed. Drinking now cold beer in the shade with that view – priceless

haha, yes, super priceless, was just there again 1 week ago

Visiting Kurdistan in mid March. Looking for a local to take me outside of Erbil. Traveling solo. Appreciate responses [email protected] Many Thanks

Ați fost? Și pe mine mă interesează și vreau să merg prin locuri mai izolate, chiar pe jos. Cum este, e dificil, riscant? Sunt mine, probleme. Se poate închiria o mașină?

Hi, I am planning to enter iraq kurdistan from Iran ( border Bashmaq – Penjwen). After that I want to Continue my trip to federal Iraq. Can I get an Iraqi visa in Advance and enter iraq kurdistan with that visum ? Or do I need both visa für federal and kurdistan iraq.

It’s complicated to get it in advance. I’d personally enter into Federal Iraq from Iran, especially because very few people have done that, so it could be a pretty cool border to cross

Leave a Comment Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

  Notify me when new comments are added.

Join our Expeditions

From Syria to Iraq in Pakistan, Against the Compass is finally running expeditions to the most epic and off-the-beaten-track countries.

We have scheduled expeditions for every month of the year.

Latest posts

• How to travel to Afghanistan during Taliban rule (2024)
• How to Travel to Libya in 2024
• Backpacking Venezuela Travel Guide (2024)
• How to visit Los Llanos in Venezuela
• How to visit Angel Falls and Canaima National Park

10 Day Iraqi Kuridstan Itinerary

Updated May 2024 ,  10 Day Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary was originally written in July 2019

Truth be told, I turned up in Iraqi Kurdistan with little to no plan. I was essentially winging it as I  crossed the border from Iran to Iraqi Kurdistan .

Did it turn out fine? Yes. Could it have been better plotted out? Of course.

So, after bull-heading my way through my trip, I’ve created the best of Iraqi Kurdistan itinerary to help any of you planning a trip to the region.

Need more help with planning? Read:  The Iraqi Kurdistan Travel Guide

Need Travel Insurance and Evacuation Services for Iraq?

Start shopping for travel insurance plans over at  IATI Insurance . Readers of the Adventures of Nicole get a 5% discount off your plan.

The Adventures of Nicole partners with Global Rescue to offer the world’s leading medical evacuation and security advisory services. To travel with peace of mind, shop evacuation coverage at Global Rescue .

QUICK 10 DAY IRAQI KURDISTAN ITINERARY

Erbil :  2 Days Koya & Sulaymaniyah:  2 Days Halabja & Ahmad Awa:  1 Day Shaqlawa & Akre:  1 Day Alqosh  &  Lalish :  1 Day Dohuk &  Amedi :  1 Day Barzan Area:  1 Day Rawanduz &  Gomi Felaw :  1-2 Days

Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary

Welcome to  Erbil  (Also named Hawler, and you’ll see it spelled Arbil too), the capital of not just Iraqi Kurdistan but the capital of all of Kurdistan (meaning the pieces of Kurdistan that extend out into Iran, Turkey, Syria, and  Armenia ).

Erbil is the most common starting point for most travelers kicking off their Iraqi Kurdistan itinerary as many of you will fly into the region here. It’s also worth noting that there is also an international airport in Sulaymaniyah, and it’s not difficult to cross the border from Turkey or Iran into Iraqi Kurdistan. Despite Erbil’s modern looks, it is one of the oldest cities in the world with experts estimating that its history extends back nearly 30,000 years.

Things To Do In Erbil

• Erbil Citadel
• Erbil Main Square
• Erbil Bazaar
• Jalil Khayat Mosque,
• Ankawa, Erbil’s Christian District
• Arab Quarter
• Kurdish Parlament
• Sami Abdul Rahman Park in Erbil
• Minaret Park & Shanider Park
• Have Tea At A Chaikhana

Plan your stay:  The Erbil Travel Guide

Where To Stay In Erbil

There are a few hotels in Erbil to crash at of varying quality and Couchsurfing is also active in Erbil. Everywhere I visited in Erbil I had offers to stay with locals that I met at different sites, so finding a place to sleep shouldn’t be too big a problem. The  Fareeq Hotel  and the Divin Hotel both came highly recommended as well.

Getting To Sulaymaniyah

Shared taxis depart when full from Erbil to Sulaymaniyah for 15,000 ID.

Koya, Dukan Lake & Sulaymaniyah

Your next move will be onto Sulaymaniyah (also spelled Slemani, Sulemani, Suli, though it seems most pronounce it slay-mani). I’d recommend popping into Koya (also named Koy Sanjaq) en route to Sulaymaniyah, as you’ll find shared taxis that connect both Erbil and Sulaymaniyah with Koya.

If you have your own transport it’s worth stopping off to visit Dukan Lake on your way. Onto Sulaymaniyah, you’ll find it to be as equally modern and liberal as Erbil.

Things To Do In Sulaymaniyah

• Amna Suraka (Red Security Museum)
• Sulaymaniyah Bazaar
• Goyzha Mountain
• Sarchnar Park & Azadi Park
• Chavi Land Amusement Park

Where To Stay In Sulaymaniyah

If you’re looking for something on the cheap end try the  Rawaz Hotel and if looking for something midrange, check out the  Khan Saray .

Halabja & Ahmed Awa

Halabja and Ahmed Awa are both easy to visit as a day trip for Sulaymaniyah. Halabja was the site of a major attack by Saddam Hussein during the Iran-Iraq War in 1988, regarded worldwide as genocide. The small town was taken under Iranian control and in response Saddam ordered the use of chemical weapons on the town, killing mostly Kurds.

There is now a memorial and museum to the victims in Halabja, similar to Amna Suraka in Sulaymaniyah. Shared taxis depart from the terminal in Sulaymaniyah when full to Halabja for 6,000 ID.

Ahmed Awa is a waterfall located about 30 kilometers north of Halabja and is pretty popular with local tourists, especially on weekends and holidays. Meeting and hanging out with Kurdish locals is more of what makes the waterfall an attraction than anything else.

From Halabja, you may need to hitch a ride to the village of Ahmed Awa (or try to find a taxi headed to nearby Khurmal). From the village, it’s about 2 kilometers of walking to reach the waterfall.

Getting Back To Sulaymaniyah Or On To Erbil

To return to Sulaymaniyah you’ll need to walk back to the village and then walk about 3 more additional kilometers to reach Khurmal to get a shared taxi back to Sulaymaniyah (6,000 ID). I’d recommend grabbing a shared taxi from Sulaymaniyah to Erbil later in the afternoon or early evening to cut down a couple of hours from your transit time tomorrow.

Shaqlawa & Akre

Shaqlawa is probably the closest thing to a tourist trap you’ll find in Kurdistan or Iraq, and it’s perfectly okay to skip it if it doesn’t incite enough interest in youth visit (I have a weird thing for kitschy tourist attractions in other countries because I think it’s interesting to see what locals lose their shit over. Case and point: how Alaskans lose their minds over Moose’s Tooth pizza and when an outsider proclaims it was ‘just alright’ our heads nearly explode).

If you don’t stop in at Shaqlawa to join in on the touristic festivities with the local crowd it’s worth at least looking at it from the window of your shared taxi as you blow past it on the highway– it is a pretty city sandwiched between Safeen and Sork Mountains. If you have rented a car or are on a guided trip it may be worth the stop on the way from Erbil to check out Khanzad Citadel

Things To Do In Shaqlawa

• Shrine of Raban Boya
• Swedish Village

Where To Stay In Shaqlawa

If you’re trying to keep costs down, staying in Shaqlawa is best avoided. However if you do you can search options in Shaqlawa  here .

Getting To Shaqlawa From Erbil

From Erbil it’s possible to get a shared taxi to Shaqlawa for 5,000 ID.

Getting To Akre

If wanting to forgo the stop in Shaqlawa you can easily get a shared taxi from Erbil to Akre for 10,000 ID. If coming from Shaqlawa plan to pay about 5,000 ID to get from Shaqlawa to Akre.

Akre is a beautiful little city perched in the Kurdish Mountains. For the best viewpoint over the city you’ll need to go up the hill behind Akre Castle.

Things To Do In Akre

• Walk Up To The Viewpoint
• The Great Mosque of Akre
• Akre Bazaar
• Ottoman Fort
• Old Akre Church
• Kale Mountain Ruins
• Sheikh Abdulaziz Shrine
• Zoroastrian Temple Cave

Where To Stay In Akre

I was told there’s a place called Azadi Motel to stay in Akre. Message them on  facebook , or call them at +964 7502001424.

Alqosh & Lalish

Alqosh  is a testament to the resilience of the Assyrians. Attacked by Amir Timur, the Pasha of Baghdad, Mosa Pasha of  Amedi , Mohammed Pasha of Rawandiz, Resoul Bek, and most recently the Islamic State.

The main site in Alqosh to visit is the Saint Hormizd Monastery built impossibly right into the side of a mountain. The monastery is located about 3 kilometers from the town of Alqosh.

Nearby  Lalish  is the home to the holiest of temples to the Yazidi. Yazidis are an ethnoreligious minority of the Kurdish population that practice a unique religion called Sharfadin (though it’s most commonly called Yazidism outside the Yazidi population). Sharfadin is monotheistic and incorporates aspects of ancient Mesopotamian religions, Zoroastrianism, Islam, Judaism, and Christianity.

The Yazidi have been persecuted throughout time, including a recent genocide campaign by the Islamic State to rid Iraq and Syria of the Yazidi. The main conical-roofed temple in Lalish is the Tomb of Sheikh Adi Ibn Musafir, the head saint of Yazidism. Yazidis are required to make a pilgrimage to Lalish at least once in their lives.

You must ditch your shoes at the entrance of Lalish because you must be barefoot to visit the holy town of Lalish, also all doorways are raised and you must step over the doorway, not on it. Ask around for a man named Luqman to explain a bit about Lalish and Yazidism to you.

Everything you need to know before visiting  Alqosh  &  Lalish

Where To Stay

Continue on to Dohuk for the night.

Getting To & Away From Alqosh To Lalish

I visited by my own transport (hired driver) to Alqosh & Lalish. I do not know that there is shared transport to Alqosh at all, though asking around won’t hurt.

As no one actually lives in Lalish you’ll also need your own transport to get here. There are reports of several travelers that have hitched to these locations with relative ease online, as both sites are popular destinations for locals to visit.

Dohuk & Amedi

To be honest, there isn’t much to see in Dohuk. However, Dohuk can provide a good base for those wanting to visit nearby sites on day trips such as the Zakho area and the site of the Battle of Gaugamela.

As you’ll be spending the night in Dohuk after coming from Alqosh & Lalish I’d recommend packing in the few sites to see in Dohuk in the evening and following morning before taking off for  Amedi . If you have your own transport it’s stopping off to visit Saddam’s Palaces between Duhok and Amedi.

Things To Do In Dohuk

• Dohuk Bazaar
• Great Dohuk Mosque
• Azadi Viewpoint
• Mart Alaha Church
• Church of Ith Llaha
• Dream City Amusement Park
• Dohuk Promenade

Where To Stay In Dohuk

In Dohuk try the  Kristal Hotel .

How To Get From Duhok To Amedi

Shared taxis connect Duhok and Amedi for 8,000 ID.

Home to the three wise men from which they began their journey to Bethlehem from  Amedi  is steeped in history. In fact, it’s believed that Amedi has been continuously inhabited for about 5,000 years, founded around 3,000 BC by the Assyrian Empire.

Amedi is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places you’ll visit in Iraqi Kurdistan. Amedi is a small village built upon a circle of towering cliffs jutting up from the floor of a valley surrounded by the Gara Mountains. Just north and east of the raised citadel of Amedi, you’ll find a great viewpoint, Bere Sili Park which is popular with local tourists, and Sulav Waterfall.

Things To Do In Amedi

• Hike up to the Amedi Viewpoint
• Bahdinian Gate
• Amedi Citadel
• Qubhan School
• Sulav Waterfall
• Bere Sili Park

Before you set out read this post on  Amedi

Where To Stay In Amedi

I did not stay in Amedi personally and am unaware of any accommodations in or around the village. I did hear of a place called Amedi Motel that’s located more up towards Sulav, try calling them at +964 7504842640.

Continuing to Barzan

I am unaware of any shared transport toward Barzan from Amedi (unless you want to go back to Duhok and back from there). Your best options to get from Amedi to Barzan would be to have your own transport or try your thumb at hitchhiking.

The Barzan area is one of the most picturesque in Iraqi Kurdistan as you continue onto the mountainous border area with Iran. For the outdoorsy types, you could spend days hiking around the Barzan area, camping en route. But if you’re short on time you can visit the area’s highlights in one jam-packed adventurous day, including the ancient Shanider Cave.

What To Do In Barzan

• Grave of 8,000 Martyrs (Kurdish Hero Cemetary)
• Barzani Memorial
• Dore Canyon
• Shanider Cave
• Bestoon Cave

How to get to the beautiful  Dore Canyon

How To Get From Barzan To Soran

I didn’t do this route by shared transport, and I am unsure if getting between Barzan and the Soran/Rawanduz area is possible that way. Hitching is a good way to travel between the two areas if you don’t have your own transportation.

Rawanduz, Soran & Gomi Felaw

Saving the best for last, this was my favorite destination on my Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary. This day will take you along a very scenic section of the legendary Hamilton Road (a historic road built by AH Hamilton to connect  Erbil  to Piranshahr, Iran).

Rawanduz & Soran

Rawanduz is home to a beautiful canyon (in which the town of Rawanduz is perched upon). Rawanduz offers some epic trekking potential among its mountainscapes, canyons and waterfalls. Located just a little further up Hamilton Road you’ll find Soran, a small town a few kilometers away.

Things To Do In & Around Rawanduz & Soran

• Geli Ali Beg Waterfall
• Bexal Waterfall
• Kopek Mountains & Resort
• Pank Resort
• Bradost Mountain
• Gullan Park
• Alana Valley
• Mulkan Valley
• Kani Springs
• Barsireen Bridge

Where To Stay In Rawanduz

The  Korek Mountain Resort , though pricey comes highly recommended.

How To Continue On To Choman

I am unsure of the shared transport situation between Soran/Rawanduz and Choman as I didn’t travel with shared transport along this route, however, I had read that there is a shared taxi between Soran and Choman for 5,000 ID (taking about 1 hour one way). Hitching is also a possibility. You’ll need to go back to Soran afterward if wanting to continue back towards  Erbil  and beyond.

Gomi Felaw & Choman

Continuing east on Hamilton Road not far from the  Haji Omaran border crossing with Iran  sits the village of Choman, a good jumping-off point for further exploration into what will become the Halgurd-Sakran Mountains & National Park, and to Gomi Felaw. 

Gomi Felaw  is the most beautiful place I visited on my Iraqi Kurdistan itinerary. Gomi Felaw is a small pond with epic views into the towering peaks all around.

Things To Do Around Choman

• Halgurd-Sakran National Park
• Haji Omaran Meadows
• Walze Waterfall
• Halgurd Mountain
• Sakran Valley
• Most Valley & Citadel
• Barza Cave & Waterfall
• Sheik Balk Shrine
• Bsta Waterfall

Everything you need to know to visit  Gomi Felaw

Getting Back To Erbil

From Choman you’ll need to grab a shared taxi or hitch as mentioned previously back to Soran. Once back in Soran you can grab a shared taxi bound for Erbil for 10,000 ID, an alternative is to use shared transport to go to Shaqlawa for 7,000 ID, and from Shaqlawa get another shared taxi back to Erbil for 5,000 ID.

If you’re planning on going to or coming from Iran, flip this itinerary and stop in at Gomi Felaw first (or last) if you’ll have a guide or transport meeting you at or taking you to the border. Otherwise, you could just go to Erbil to get situated before heading out on this Iraqi Kurdistan itinerary.

Planning on combining Iraqi Kurdistan & Iran? Learn  how to get an Iranian Visa

Read:  Crossing the Iran-Iraqi Kurdistan Border at Haji Omaran

Iraqi Kurdistan Quick Info

• The main language spoken in Iraqi Kurdistan is Kurmanji which is a Kurdish dialect. English is a popular second language to learn in school with younger Kurds, so usually, you can find someone around to help translate if you’re struggling, but I recommend learning some basics before arriving.
• The Iraqi Dinar (ID) is the currency of Iraqi Kurdistan. The current exchange rate is $1 USD to 1461 ID.
• Iraqi Kurdistan is religiously diverse. You’ll find Sunni, Shia, Yazidis, Christians, and more.
• Spring and fall are the best times to visit (April-May & September-October) with the most comfortable temperatures.
• Iraqi Kurdistan is an autonomous region of Iraq under the control of the KRG (Kurdish Regional Government).
• Many western countries do not need a visa to enter Iraqi Kurdistan,  click here  to see the list of visa-free nationalities.
• You cannot enter Southern (Arab) Iraq without a visa.
• I recommend grabbing a copy of Bradt’s Iraq , some info is a bit old, but it can still be helpful in the planning stages.

Is Iraqi Kurdistan Safe?

It is and it isn’t. Given the current situation of the region, you could say that Iraqi Kurdistan is relatively safe. Has Iraqi Kurdistan been under attack? Definitely.

Prior to your arrival, keep an eye on Iraqi Kurdistan news and try to stay informed. Just because I had a safe trip there doesn’t mean it can’t change.

Visiting Iraqi Kurdistan isn’t for everyone either, there’s very limited tourist infrastructure and there are countless Peshmerga (military) checkpoints. Getting around independently can be a challenge at times and the public transport options are limited to non-existent in some parts of the country.

Many who visit will choose to visit on a guided trip and there’s nothing wrong with that. I actually joined  Haval Qaraman  (a well-known local guide) and his family on a day trip to Barzan, Dore Canyon, and Gomi Felaw for a day during my trip.

I hired a local driver (because I just really hate driving and don’t mind spending a little more to not have to drive myself) to reach a couple of places that weren’t so cut and dry to get to, and other times I traveled independently.

I’ve gotten a lot of messages and emails from women wanting to visit Iraqi Kurdistan independently since I’ve started writing about my trips on here, regarding safety. Well, I’ve written an entire post dedicated to solo female travel in Iraqi Kurdistan that you can read  here .

Read:  Solo Female Travel In Iraqi Kurdistan

Have Any Questions About This Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary?

Ask your Iraqi Kurdistan itinerary questions in the comments section below.

More Posts from Iraqi Kurdistan:

Visiting The Yazidi Holy Site Of Lalish, Iraqi Kurdistan

The Best Road Trips In The World

10 Day Iraqi Kurdistan Itinerary

Erbil Travel Guide + 7 Things To Do In Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan

Iraq Travel Guide: Everything You Need to Know to Visit in 2024

Iran-Iraq Border Crossing Report At Tamarchin/Haji Omaran

Rabban Hormizd Monastery in Alqosh

Visiting Dore Canyon Near Barzan, Iraqi Kurdistan

Solo Female Travel In Iraqi Kurdistan

A Quick Guide To Iraqi Kurdistan Travel

Soaring Mountains & Alpine Lakes In Gomi Felaw, Iraqi Kurdistan

1 thought on “10 day iraqi kurdistan itinerary”.

Iraqi Kurdistan is one of the best travel destinations for adventure travelers. It was one of the most culturally enriching and transformational trips of my life. You have created a list of the best places for a 10-day holiday in Iraqi Kurdistan. And yes, I can also confirm, that Iraqi Kurdistan is an extremely safe travel destinations.

Leave a Comment Cancel Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. You can also subscribe without commenting.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

• Central African Republic
• São Tomé and Principe
• South Sudan
• Afghanistan
• North Korea
• Turkmenistan
• Saudi Arabia
• Yemen – Socotra
• Yemen – Mainland
• DRC & Congo
• Somalia (Somaliland)
• Yemen (Socotra & Hadhramaut)
• Yemen Hadramaut
• World Nomad Games
• Uganda Tour
• São Tomé and Principe Tour
• Partnerships & Agents
• Women Empowerment & Travel
• Sustainability

UPDATE: We explain everything here about visas for Iraq and Kurdistan

How to get a visa for Iraq

Do you have the cradle of civilization high on your travel list? Always wanted to set foot in legendary Babylon? Or are you curious on how the country is doing after IS has been ousted? Then we have good news, you can just go there and see it all for yourself! It has recently become a lot easier to travel to Iraq. We tell you all about the new visa process in this article.

Iraq is divided into two parts for travellers

Present day Iraq is roughly divided into two main areas. You have the Kurdish part (Northeast Iraq) and Central-South Iraq (from Mosul to Baghdad to Basra). Both regions are part of the country of Iraq but actually function independently of each other. Kurdistan has an advanced state of independence.

Kurdistan: autonomous region of Iraq

The Kurdish part of Iraq is an autonomous province in Iraq. The Kurdish authority as such has many powers of its own. In Kurdistan you’ll find large cities such as Erbil and Sulaymaniyah. The region has a turbulent history: the pursuit of independence is noticeable everywhere. During Saddam Hussein’s regime, the Kurds were severely oppressed. The region was suffering from genocide. The war against IS has not penetrated the major cities of Kurdistan, but they have been close. The Yazidis, who have suffered under the error of IS, mainly live in Western Kurdistan.

Travel & visa in Kurdistan

Traveling in and to Iraqi Kurdistan is actually very easy. Due to the autonomous status of the region, the area has its own visa policy. Many nationalities (including most Western countries) are therefore not dependent on a visa.

To get to Kurdistan you can fly directly to Erbil from several European cities. You can also choose to enter Kurdistan by land via Turkey or Iran. Most nationalities will receive a (free) stamp at customs: a so-called ‘Kurdish visa on arrival ‘. The validity of the stamp can vary, but usually it is between 10 and 30 days.

In Kurdistan, traveling around is safe for both men and women. However, keep in mind that you can not venture outside the autonomous Kurdish region, as you need a different visa for the rest of Iraq.

Iraq: Finally open for tourism

As mentioned before, the rest of Iraq has recently adopted a new visa policy. A long list of nationalities can now get a visa at the airport upon arrival in Baghdad. Very convenient and efficient. We explain further below how it works.

The old situation

First let’s look at the old situation. Until recently, Iraq had a strict visa policy. Tourists were only welcome in groups (minimum 5 people). In addition, there were many restrictions in the freedom of movement, and you had to have a local guide.

The guide had to personally visit the Ministry of Tourism to ask permission for issuing the special group visa. After the ministry accepted his request, the letter of invitation (LOI) would be  sent to the embassy of your native country. With the invitation letter you could then go to your local Iraqi embassy, where a cross-check followed. When finally everything was approved, the embassy would issue your visa for Iraq for € 50. The whole process was time consuming and usually the final visa would  only be issued days before the trip. Fortunately, this procedure is now a thing of the past!

The new situation (update: March 2021)

In March 2021, there was suddenly a news report from the Iraqi government about tourist visas for Iraq. The message stated that the old (complex) system for tourist visa applications was no more relevant. Instead a new policy comes into place. With immediate effect, people from the following countries /regions can get  visa-on-arrival upon landing in Iraq.

– European Union (Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Denmark, Germany, Estonia, Finland, France, Greece, Hungary, Ireland, Italy, Croatia, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Austria, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovenia, Slovakia, Spain, Czech Republic & Sweden) – United States – Canada – United Kingdom – Russia – China – South Korea – Japan – Australia

For this, once you arrive in Baghdad, you will receive your visa at the visa desk, after a payment of $77. After they issued the visa, you are free to enter the country.

Visiting Kurdistan and Southern Iraq

Do you want to travel all over Iraq? That’s no problem. Your visa-on-arrival for Iraq is also valid in Kurdistan. Conversely, your Kurdistan stamp is not valid in the rest of Iraq. So make sure you travel to Baghdad via the airport and not by land from Kurdistan.

Tours in Soutern Iraq

Traveling around southern Iraq means a lot of checkpoints. Especially north of Baghdad (towards Mosul) and around the holy cities of Najaf and Karbala, where you’ll find soldiers or local militias every few kilometers who want to check your passport and documents. Generally, this is not a problem as long as you have the right papers. But even if you have a visa, you are not allowed to go wherever you want as a tourist in Iraq. The local guide ensures that all the necessary permissions are obtained for each area tourists are allowed. 

Would you like to visit Iraq ? Take a look at our group tours or individual tours

Frugal Travellers

Join us as we wander the globe, erbil iraqi kurdistan – travel guide.

Erbil , the capital of the Kurdistan region of Iraq is a fascinating city to visit. Why?

It has history – The citadel which sits on a mound in the centre of the city has been continuously inhabited for almost 7,000 years and is said to be one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities.

It has character – The most beautiful part of visiting this region is the interaction you will have with the Kurdish people. These kind, hospitable folk are the warmest and most generous people we have met anywhere in the world. The experience of being among them will blow you away!

It has variety – From the abandoned Arab quarter to the more modern Christian suburb of Ankawa in the north of the city, Erbil has a huge variety of religion, culture, architecture and things to see and do.

We initially came for a few days and eventually spent 9 days in Erbil because we fell in love with the city and it’s people. This guide to Erbil will show you why we loved it so much and give you tips on what to see and do in Erbil Iraqi Kurdistan.

Where is Erbil?

Erbil is the capital city of the Autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan which is located in the N/E of Iraq and borders Iran, Turkey and Syria. We travelled overland from Turkey to get there, crossing the border at Ibrahim Khalil near Silopi.

Is it safe to visit Erbil?

We spent 11 days in Kurdistan in August 2019 and had absolutely no trouble at all. In fact the Kurdish people are the nicest, friendliest, most welcoming people we have ever came across in all our years of travel.

b that, Kurdistan is in a troubled part of the world. There is no denying that. Its borders with Iraq and Syria are plagued with the threat of ISIS and there are areas where you should not visit. Kurdistan is well protected by its Peshmerga military forces who are working constantly on keeping the country secure. Currently the cities of Mosul and Kirkuk are out of bounds.

You should always seek advice on the current situation before travelling to this region. The official government website for travel advice to UK citizens is The FCO advice site.

Another good news source that gives regular fresh news is the Kurdistan News 24 site .

For more detailed information on travelling in Kurdistan see our other post

Travel costs and information for Iraqi Kurdistan

What to see and do in erbil.

There is plenty in Erbil to keep you occupied for at least a couple of days and if you are like us then you will take great pleasure in the main activity – hanging out with the locals and enjoying the vibe. We were very fortunate to make good friends with some locals who kindly showed us around the city extensively so we got a really good feel for the place. These were our highlights.

The Erbil Citadel

Dating back to the 5th century BC Erbil citadel is a unique place steeped in history. In fact the mound it sits on is the built up remnants of all the previous mud brick dwellings over thousands of years of habitation. It has now been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The buildings on its edge have been renovated in parts, which gives it a new look from some angles (but not from the east side as you can see below).

It is still under re-construction so a lot of the interior is in a bad state of disrepair and not accessible. A main street that cuts through the middle takes you past a textile museum to the mosque and a huge Kurdistan flag. Further along is another museum, which was closed when we were there.

We recommend visiting in the early evening when the weather is cooler. At sunset locals gather at the entrance to enjoy the views across to the square below.

Opening hours for the citadel are 9 am to 7 pm . It is free to enter.

The main square

The main square below Erbil citadel is a focal point for the city’s inhabitants to visit. With the citadel as a backdrop and the bazaar next door it is in a fantastic location.

This place really comes to life at night when the weather is cooler. Families gather, young couples stroll and people hang out. We spent many an evening there, sitting by the fountains and people-watching as it had a great atmosphere.

There are chai shops all around the square. Take a seat, drink some tea and meet the locals. Without a doubt you will end up chatting to somebody.

Take a look around Erbil on our postcard challenge

Travelling on to Iran? Read One Month In Iran

Qaysari Bazaar

Below the citadel and to the west of the main square is the Qaysari bazaar. We loved wandering around here, getting lost in the labyrinth of alleyways and absorbing the sights and smells of this vibrant place.

There are hundreds of traditional stalls selling all kinds of merchandise from clothes and jewelry to carpets and handicrafts.

The food sections are fascinating to visit, especially the many sweet stalls selling all kinds of colourful delicacies. The owners are friendly and will hand out samples and explain what is on offer. They are happy for you to take photographs as well.

The great thing is that it does not seem like a tourist market at all as it is full of locals doing their daily shopping. There is absolutely no hassle to buy which makes it a relaxed place to aimlessly wander.

If you want to change money this is a good spot. You will find money changers sitting around the edge of the bazaar with stacks of cash bundled up on top of glass cases. Not only do they change money to regular Iraqi Dinar but they sell old Dinar notes with Saddam Hussein’s face on as souvenirs!!

See the latest currency exchange rates on XE.COM

Ankawa Christian district

Our good Kurdish friend, Hana took us on a drive one day up to the Christian suburb of Ankawa in the north of Erbil city. It is not too far from the centre, so a taxi should only cost 4000-5000 dinar.

Ankawa is quite a unique place compared to rest of Erbil, or anywhere else in Iraq or Kurdistan for that matter. As it is a Christian suburb, different rules apply. Therefore it seems much more casual than the rest of the country and you will notice people are dressed less conservatively.

The 2 things that you will find in a Christian suburb are churches and alcohol!! There are many interesting churches to visit and a buzzing nightlife that caters to the large ex-pat community in Ankawa.

Ankawa is a bustling suburb which is full of great places to eat as well. We had an incredible meat feast there.

Iskan street – Erbil’s cheap food street

Only one kilometre south of Erbil citadel is Iskan Street . It is a long street packed with cheap eating places side to side and is really popular with locals. The food is cheap and good and the place is thriving in the evening when the local lads come out to eat and smoke shisha.

It seems to be only full of men so may be a little intimidating for single female travellers. We met a cafe owner there that was proud of the fact that he was the first business in the street to employ a woman as it was a real rarity.

The cafes and stalls sell mostly the ubiquitous kebabs but different meats can be found. Vegetarians might struggle here.

Read this great GoNomad article on Iskan Street

Travelling on to Iran? Read the frugal travel guide to Iran

Shanadar Park

Shanadar Park lies just to the south east of Minare Park and is another lovely green open space where locals gather. When we visited there was a huge circus-like tent near the entrance which was displaying an aqua show with live sharks on display. We weren’t going to visit that even if it was operating.

Two imposing neanderthals stand guard of the entrance as the park is named after the nearby Shanidar caves where remnants of the 65,000 year old hominids were discovered.

Inside the park there are cafes, play areas for kids, a large lake and of course the cable cars.

There is also the Shanadar gallery which is designed like a huge cave which has a great viewpoint on the roof and an extensive display of artwork by local artists. This one of the few places where you can buy postcards in Erbil if you wish to send some.

The park is open from 7 am to 11 pm and is free to enter

Just south of Shanadar Park is the Aqua park which is an ideal place to go and cool down on a hot Erbil day. There is a big pool and water slides. When we checked it was 5000 Dinar to enter. Family days are Wednesday and Saturday which means females can enter. Other days are men-only and unfortunately we walked past on a Thursday so we were not able to go in as a couple. Opening hours are 12 pm to 7 pm.

Minare Park

Shanadar Park runs through to Minare Park to the north west. This is a pleasant area with shaded park benches and fountains, which is another great place to relax and meet the locals. There is a small scale model of the Erbil citadel which gives a good overall view of it. Also there is a tethered hot air balloon which may or may not rise, and also the terminal for the cable car which you can ride across to Shandar Park if it is in operation.

Take a look on the Visit Erbil Site

Minare Park is named after the 13th century Choli minaret which stands at its northern end. This was once attached to a much bigger mosque on the same grounds.

It was yet another brutally hot 47 C day when we visited the park. We foolishly were walking around in the heat of the afternoon when all the sensible locals are safely hiding away in the air-con. The highlight for us was showering in the water sprinklers of the rose garden, which was the perfect place to cool off.

Drinking tea and chatting with the locals

Our most memorable experiences of our time in Erbil were the hours we spent sitting and drinking tea with the many wonderful Kurds we met. This can be done absolutely anywhere as there is always tea to be found. Often we were invited into shops or just offerred tea and water as we walked down the street. The kindness and hospitality of the people here is overwhelming.

It you stop and sit in a cafe or at one the many street side tea stalls you will inevitably end up in a conversation with a friendly local. This is a fantastic opportunity to connect, laugh and learn something of the language and culture of Kurdistan.

We really struggled to be allowed to pay for our tea as we were constantly invited by the people we met. Once we tried to insist on paying but could tell our new friend felt insulted by this so we let it go. It is truly heartwarming to meet such kind and open people.

Exploring the abandoned Arab Quarter

The district to the west of Qaysari bazaar is the former Arab quarter of Erbil. The houses have been mostly abandoned now and lie empty and derelict although a few families still live among them.

It feels quite strange to step just a block or two away from the lively bazaar into this spooky, rundown ghost town. When we asked Kurdish friends we were told that the local council had plans to renovate the entire area into another urban park area and they were waiting for the last people to leave before work could take place.

Having selfie sessions with the locals

Like everywhere around the world the phenomenon of the selfie has firmly taken hold here. Coupled with the friendliness of the people, this meant we were constantly receiving requests from complete strangers in the street to join them in a selfie together.

We have a policy that if somebody asks for a selfie with us we will always agree and we will take one ourselves to connect to the new people we meet. The selfie is a great ice-breaker to begin a conversation and make new friends.

We were in Erbil during Eid-Al-Adha , the festival of the sacrifice. This is the second biggest holiday in the Muslim calendar and for almost a week the streets were heaving with celebrating local holidaymakers. The parks and streets were full and places like the citadel walls at sunset were teeming with people, all intent on getting that selfie.

It was so much fun!

Within half an hour of walking though the citadel grounds during Eid we had received invitations to visit Baghdad, Tikrit, Mosul and Basra from holidaymakers. If only!

We’ve made some incredible friendships with the wonderful Kurdish people and we still can’t stop smiling when thinking about it.

Jalil Khayat Mosque

One of the most imposing landmarks we noticed from the view from the top of the citadel was the Jalil Khayat Mosque. Its tall minarets stood high above the rooftops looking north east from the citadel.

We decided to take a hike out to the mosque to have a closer look. It’s a 2 km walk and we incorporated it into a longer hike out to the Erbil International Bus Terminal to buy onward tickets. We like to explore the backstreets of the outlying neighbourhoods to get an insight into everyday local life in the cities we visit.

The mosque is quite new but it has an incredibly impressive facade and a wonderfully decorated exterior. Unfortunately we were not able to enter as it was all closed up during the Eid festival. I’m sure it would be well worth a look inside if you can.

Who are the Frugal travellers?

Other interesting sights

The affluent west side of the city.

Our kind Kurdish friends took us out for a drive around Erbil to show us the different sides of the city that most tourists do not usually see. To the west side of the city are the more upmarket suburbs where the wealthier section of Erbil society live. The main suburbs are –

• Empire Royal City
• English Village
• Italian Village

Here the streets are cleaner, the electricity is 24 hours and the infrastructure is well established. There are gated communities with high security and there is a buzzing nightlife with many high end, late night restaurants, cafes and bars. Dream City is the epicentre of the district. This is where the aspiring Erbil folks come to socialise and the nighttime vibe is electric!

Shopping Malls of Erbil

While many people do go to the open markets in Erbil, most of the locals are drawn to the modern, sterile, air conditioned environment of the shopping mall. It is a fact of life around the world that our habits are changing and the traditional methods of shopping are giving way to modern culture.

I don’t like it much as the world is slowly becoming homogenised, however there is no denying that it is an interesting place to go and see how the new generation go about their lives. Besides air conditioning is a magnificent luxury when it’s 47 degrees outside and the power is failing elsewhere!

The popular malls of Erbil are –

• Downtown Mall – A short walk south of the main park
• Family Mall – 5 km east of the citadel near to the international bus terminal
• Majidi Mall – 6 km east of the citadel on route 18

Frugal travel guide to Erbil

Where to stay on a budget.

We are budget travellers and we only give budget travel advice. This means we can’t really promote hotels on booking.com here as none of the real budget hotels in Erbil are listed there, so we won’t be making much from affiliate links on this post! Hahaha!!

The budget hotels are all to be found to the west of the Qayseri bazaar, below the citadel on and around Bata Street . Don’t worry too much about booking in advance, we even found a room at the height of Eid-al-adha which is one of the busiest times of the year.

Download the Maps.Me app to find your way around Erbil

It is a great location in the heart of everything but all the cheap hotels are old and run down and pretty grubby. Kurdistan isn’t great value for money as far as accommodation is concerned.

We stayed in the Hotel Bekhal which suited our needs. The owners were friendly, the wifi worked well and we had power most of the time. We negotiated a double room down to 33,000 IQD during the busy Eid festival when all the other hotels were charging more and the price dropped to 25,000 IQD after Eid.

It was adequate for us but if you do not like the sight of the odd scurrying cockroach then I suggest you go a bit more upmarket.

Exchange rates in August 2019 were US $1 = 1,200 IQD

Where to eat on a budget

If you want to eat cheap in Erbil you will be eating shawarma, kebabs or gas as they are known in Kurdish. They come in lovely boat shaped bread. It is normally chicken or beef meat and you add veggies on top from a communal buffet. Price – 1,000 – 1,500 IQD

These places often do falafel also which is really tasty. Price – 750 IQD

There are a selection of eating places on Bata street and also inside and around the bazaar.

For great sit down eating options walk south a little to Iskan Street which is full of restaurants, cafes and street stalls with plenty more options.

Don’t forget to try the incredible ice-cream places you will see dotted all around Erbil with delicious, good value ice-cream on offer. The good ones are full of locals.

If you want to go up-market then take a taxi out to the Dream City restaurants where you can wine and dine western style for western prices.

Getting around

There are some minibuses driving around Erbil but we never managed to work them out. We were fortunate enough to be driven around by our Kurdish friends and we walked a lot too.

Most locals don’t bother with buses and take taxis everywhere. We took taxis out to Garage Baghdad and to the International bus terminal from the centre for 3000 IQD

Getting there and away by bus

The new International Bus Terminal is 5 km east of Erbil centre. There are plenty of bus companies leaving from there to different Turkish destinations throughout the day.

We arrived on a bus from Silopi for 100 TL = US $17

We left on a bus to Sanliurfa for US $35

Bus Travel to Sulaymaniyah

From Erbil we travelled to Sulaymaniyah , Kurdistan’s second city. Shared taxis and minibuses leave regularly, when full from Garage Baghdad which is 5 kms south of Erbil centre, just off the Kirkuk road. Price 10,000 IQD by minibus. 15,000 IQD by shared taxi. The ‘garage’ is marked on Maps.Me as Garage Suli Hawler

We left at 9.30 am and arrived in Sulaymaniyah at 2.30 pm . Returning, the bus only took 4 hours as the driver was much faster! You stop mid-way for a food break. They take the back road directly to Sulaymaniyah rather than drive south through Kirkuk as this is a more secure route!

Leave a comment

Are you planning on going to Iraqi Kurdistan? Do you have any further questions?

We hope you enjoyed this post on Erbil, Iraqi Kurdistan. Please leave a comment below if you have any more questions. We’d love to hear from you!

Happy travels!!

Like this post? Pin It

Share and Enjoy !

You might also like:.

10 thoughts on “ Erbil Iraqi Kurdistan – Travel Guide ”

So, so tempting!!! What language were you using to communicate with the locals?

We’re so pleased we went, and have made lifelong friends with some of the incredible people we met there! We had downloaded Arabic and Turkish on Google Translate, as they can be used offline. Almost everyone we met spoke either of the two and/or Persian… and many spoke English as well! Within 3 minutes of struggling with Google Translate, someone would always appear who would speak excellent English.

I loving following along on your travels as you always go to such interesting places. I’ve been eyeing Erbil for awhile, not sure my husband is as keen.

This is such an amazingly detailed and helpful guide. So when I finally get there, I’ll be sure to save it for reference. The abandoned Arab Quarter looks like it would be up my alley. Always up for exploring a ghost town! The Qaysari Bazaar also looks great. I always buy so many nuts and seeds and dried fruits when I’m in places like that. So looks like I’d be in heaven there.

Thank you for the kind words! We feel the same way about your blog – have bookmarked some of your articles for cities we’ll soon be visiting!

Iraqi Kurdistan was amazing – I’m so pleased we went. Erbil was a great city to visit – I’d recommend not going in summer or during a major holiday period!

Something to keep in mind is that you’ll be issued with a free 30-day visa for the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan only – however the stamp is for the Republic of Iraq.

This will cause issues with visiting the States as is in the “Naughty 8” category, along with Iran, Syria and Yemen.

A trip after that to the US would require an interview at a US embassy and $150 for a 10-year visa… something we’ll be going through in a couple of years so will try to visit all the countries on that list before then.

You would love the Qaysari Bazaar – so bustling and totally not touristy!

Hello guys! Thanks for this detailed guide. It will for sure help us a lot as we’re heading today to Erbil from Diyarbakir. We marked all the interested spots on maps.me which has been our absolutely favorite app for the last 4 years. We tried our luck with couchsurfing and we hope it will be rewarding experience, as always. Though we decided to splurge a bit on the first night and booked a decent hotel – not something we do normally, hahahaha… We are very excited!

One question. Did you do any side trips? Like to Rawanduz from Erbil, Halabja from Suli or Lalish from Duhok? We plan to do some of them, just have to figure out if the best way is hitchhiking or trying to bargain a good price for taxi.

Apologies for only just seeing this! We hope you’re enjoying Erbil and that the Turkish attacks on Syria aren’t having too great an impact on Iraqi Kurdistan as yet.

We only spent time in Erbil and Suli as couldn’t handle doing too much in 47C! Our friend was there recently and is way more adventurous – I’ll ask her now for information on where she went and how she got there.

Part 4: To Rawandiz they should start kinda early bc it’s mountain slopes and it took us quite a while even with a proper car.

I hope this helps. Let me know if they need more input 🙂

Our friend has kindly written back:

Regarding trips in Kurdistan.

To Lalish it’s easy to hitchhike from Dohuk. get a taxi until Dohuk City Limits in the east. From their they can easily get a car ride to the check point before Lalish. It’s called lBadrah”. Behind the checkpoint starts the road to Lalish. They just walk there and flag down a car, because most of the cars taking this small road are going to Lalish anyway. The way back is easier. Just ask any person with a car at Lalish. The majority heads back all the way to Dohuk anyway. It took us appr. 40minutes to get back to town with the truck who took us. I don’t recommend taxi for Lalish, because they request too much money and then they wait for you and you cannot take as much time there as you want. Hitchhiking is definitely easy there and will be for free. Yezidi people are amazing.

Part 2: Halabja from Suli is easy as well. Shared taxis are running down there and cost 6000 IQD. I can only recommend staying in Dolphin Hostel and to ask Shah, the owner, which minivan Stopp is close to his hostel. Alternatively he can negotiate a “private” taxi price and then they can decide how they want to get there. In Halabja you only have the museum which is worth visiting.

Part 3: Rawanduz is a little more of a hassle. You have to go to Soran first and from there to Rawandiz. Since I did it with friends from Erbil, we had a private car which made it easier. But I know there are vans running to Soran and from there you take shared taxi for 5000 IQD or they hitchhike (which will be easy again bc ppl are traveling a lot between those two villages).

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed .

Copy short link

Follow the trip in live

Visit Iraqi Kurdistan: Travel guide

• December 11, 2023
• Leave a comment

• Updated on December 11, 2023

▶ Destinations ▶ Iraq  

How to travel to Iraqi Kurdistan

Everything you need to know to visit Iraqi Kurdistan in this travel guide. Whether you are a solo backpacker or accompanied by a tour guide or any tour operator, find out the essential points to know before traveling to Iraq: what to do, when to visit, where to stay, transportion, visas and safety.

Insure your trip to Iraq Start here

Discover Iraqi Kurdistan

Kurdistan is a region shared between northern Iraq, northern Syria, eastern Turkey and northwestern Iran. What you will find in this travel guide does not apply for the whole of Iraq since it is divided into 2 parts:

● Federal Iraq [Travel guide] ● Iraqi Kurdistan , which is an autonomous region recognized by Iraq.  

Language and culture of Iraqi Kurdistan

The inhabitants of Kurdistan are Kurdish and speak Kurdish, which is very different from Arab culture. There are many different Kurdish dialects such as Kurmanji for example, which has a large number of speakers in Duhok province.

Religion in Iraqi Kurdistan

Sunni Islam is the majority religion in Iraqi Kurdistan, followed by Shiite Islam. Islamization and persecution were strong in this region of Iraq, which had other important religious communities. These religions include Yazidism, Yarsanism, Zoroastrianism, Christianity and Judaism: all are a minority at the present day.

Climate and geography

Unlike arid and desert federal Iraq, Iraqi Kurdistan is a fertile and mountainous region. The climate is also different, presenting dry and very hot seasons, rainy or very cold and snowy.

Travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan

Far be it from us to think of a green and relatively safe Iraq. The work of the Western media has focused so much on the acts of violence that the country has suffered that one would almost forget that behind it there is a culture, a people and even places to travel there.  

A destination off the beaten track

This place is Kurdistan and my trip to the region offered me a great experience. More than the sites to discover, it is the Kurds themselves who have left me beautiful memories. I have rarely seen a country where locals take such good care of their visitors.  

A very hospitable Iraqi region

In fact, it will almost be beyond comprehension. Sometimes it was even too much, so to speak. I found myself in a few snaps of my fingers at one, transferred to the other, sent left, right… The meetings followed one another in number. I never asked for anything and was served everything on a platter. I had heard that the Kurds were friendly but I didn’t realize how much before I set foot in Iraq.

Things to do and places to see in Iraqi Kurdistan

There are many cultural visits to discover in Iraqi Kurdistan. Discover things to see and activities to do in the different provinces of the region for a varied itinerary :

🔎 What to do in Iraqi Kurdistan?

Informations about Erbil

Visit erbil.

Erbil, or Hewlêr in Kurdish, is the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. It is in this city that one lands in general (or Sulaymānīyah) if one does not cross land borders. Being one of the oldest cities in the world, Erbil has a very interesting historical heritage to discover. It is also a nice place to stay. Discover the activities available and other information for your trip to the Iraqi Kurdish capital.

🔎 Visit Erbil: things to do

When to go to Iraqi Kurdistan?

Iraqi Kurdistan is a destination to which you can travel almost all year round. At least, depending on the temperatures you are looking for because this region can be as cold as it is very hot. Be aware that if you come outside winter, the landscapes will be much greener than the arid look they have during the cold season.  

Weather in Iraqi Kurdistan

● The months of April, May and November are very good for travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan. Temperatures climb up to 30 ° C and drop to around 20 ° C at night (on average , and except for November which is cooler).

● The months of September and October are hot but bearable: 20 ° C at night and between 34 and 38 ° C during the day.

● The months of December to March are cold. Temperatures remain mild in the plains but they drop at night, even in the negative. You should know that the closer you get to the mountains, the colder it will be. It snows in winter in Kurdistan. Also note that March is the rainiest month, about 15 days of precipitation.

● The months of June to August are the most unfavorable for travel. Temperatures exceed 40°C during the day and do not fall below 25°C at night (on average).

The best time to visit Iraqi Kurdistan

April is the best month from a cultural point of view, especially since the weather is very mild at this time.  

Iraqi Kurdistan National Day

Kurds celebrate Kurdistan’s National Day on April 21, Newroz . A good place to see the celebration can be Akre.

🔎 Visit Akre: Travel Guide  

Yazidi New Year

Also in April, you can attend the Yazidi New Year, Çarşema Sor , in the holy place of Lalish. It is held on the first Wednesday following April 13.

🔎 Visit Lalish: Travel Guide

Is it easy to travel to Iraqi Kurdistan?

Iraqi Kurdistan is not a tourist region. It is therefore not designed for travelers, especially in terms of amenities. Clearly, it is not Egypt. You will have to fend for yourself and there are not many places to sleep. Other than that, nothing is really complicated.  

Experienced travelers

If you are already used to solo travel in Middle Eastern countries, this destination should be easy for you. Nevertheless, there are a few things to know before traveling to Iraqi Kurdistan. You will find this information in this travel guide.

Inexperienced travelers

If you’ve never traveled to the Middle East, I can’t recommend this destination enough to start with. Especially since it is necessary to remain regularly informed about the situation in the region. Iraqi Kurdistan may be a destination where you can travel serenely, but the situation is not stable.

Safety in Iraqi Kurdistan

Is iraqi kurdistan safe to travel.

For my part, I have not, never felt the slightest sense of insecurity in Iraqi Kurdistan . I felt good all the time and at all hours, both in the middle of the night in big cities and in very remote areas.

Volatile situation

This security is relative because Iraq remains a country of conflict and the situation can always deteriorate rapidly. That’s why it’s important to keep yourself regularly informed about what’s happening in the places you visit. One thing is certain, security is more reinforced than on the federal side, but that did not prevent two attacks from happening there when I was there.

Areas to avoid

Some areas can be dangerous in Iraqi Kurdistan such as the borders for example. This applies as much on the side of Syria, as on the side of federal Iraq and Turkey ( Sister in the mountains because of the conflicts with the PKK and the many landmines). The province of Kirkuk is also to be avoided. Despite its tourist attraction, the situation is particularly volatile and conflicts are not uncommon. It is disputed between Kurdistan and Baghdad, which are fighting to control the oil-rich province. Perhaps it is safer to visit it with a guide.

Travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan as a woman

I was able to exchange with some solo travelers who went safely to Iraqi Kurdistan. No major incidents were reported. In fact, it is mostly very positive. It has also been reported that the Kurds may have more restraint than some of their Middle Eastern neighbors vis-à-vis foreign tourists. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to respect social-cultural codes so as not to be bored and at least cover your arms and legs. The hijab is not mandatory to wear.

Insurance for travelling to Iraq

There are a thousand and one reasons to be confronted with a problem abroad. Medical or hospitalization costs, which can be very high, are also one of the motivations for taking out insurance. The reputation of Chapka in the travel industry is second to none. Get insured then travel hassle-free.  

You will not pay any additional commission fee by using this affiliate link. On the other hand, you help me to get paid from my work and to keep Spirit-travelers.com alive. Also note that you can get 5% discount on the trips less than 3 months.

Money & budget

Iraqi Kurdistan is not the cheapest destination that can be found in the Middle East, but it is still very cheap. However, if you plan to make an itinerary with a fairly limited backpacker budget, it is possible to travel at a lower cost by sleeping in a homestay, wild camping and hitchhiking for example.   

Withdrawing money

Bring enough fluids during your trip. Only very large cities have distributors. I was fooled in Akre , which is a big city. There was no distributor and the nearest was 100 km away.

Most establishments do not take CB in Iraqi Kurdistan. The only places you can use it are usually luxury hotels or shopping malls but everything else is paid in cash. I went to a modern clinic during my stay and even here they didn’t take the card. Yet it was in Duhok, one of the largest cities in Iraqi Kurdistan.

Exchange currency

You can exchange euros and dollars easily throughout the region. Because ATMs are scarce outside major cities, Iraqis use the dollar a lot as currency. It saves them from bothering with large wads of dinars. Bureaux de change are easy to find.

Daily expenses

  ● I spent about $850 in 20 days ● Average of $40 per day  

Knowing the main daily expenses can be useful before coming to Iraqi Kurdistan to estimate the total budget of your trip. As mentioned earlier, you cannot withdraw money easily and you will need to have your money with you.

$1 = 1460 IQD

Transportation

They are quite cheap. A 5 km private taxi ride in a medium-sized city costs around IQD 1,000. A ride in the capital costs an average of IQD 3,000. A 100 km ride by shared taxi costs between IQD 5,000 and IQD 10,000.

Food is very cheap in Iraqi Kurdistan if you eat in local restaurants or on the street. Count about 3,000 to 4,000 IQD for a complete local meal. Food in Iraqi Kurdistan is not so varied. You will often find the same type of food. There are (really) many shawarma and kebab restaurants for example. Count 1,000 IQD for one or the other. A pure fresh fruit juice costs 500 IQD. A coffee or tea (chai) costs 250 IQD.

Cigarettes cost IQD 1,000. These are packs of 20 but are twice as thin as normal. That’s all the Kurds smoke! A normal package costs 2,000 IQD

There is no need to bargain in comparison with other countries in the Middle East (be aware that this may be different in federal Iraq). Even taxis often offer the real prices. It may be that some inflate them a little for long journeys but always reasonably.

One of the only things you will have to negotiate will be your nights at the hotel. Prices are not often displayed on the net. I used to ask the locals for the prices of those I was interested in before going there. The prices I was told at the counter were often doubled, so knowing them beforehand is useful since you will know how far you can negotiate.

Where to stay?

Hotels are not very developed in Iraqi Kurdistan, especially if you leave the big cities.  

● Budget hotels cost an average of IQD 40,000. They are always very clean and often spacious. You can negotiate them (see previous section). You’ll find them as motels rather than hotels. ● Backpacker hotels don’t exist in Iraqi Kurdistan. Tourism is so underdeveloped that these options are not available. You can find a few cheap hotels in Erbil but they are hard to find, and it’s not for lack of searching. ● Confortable and luxurious hotels are more common but I don’t know how much they cost.

Staying at the inhabitant

It is very simple to sleep in a homestay. People will often and very easily offer you to be hosted by them if you frequent the premises. It is even sometimes disconcerting because they have this facility to welcome you and give you everything without you asking for anything. The hospitality in this country is amazing.

Wild camping

I was only able to camp once in Iraqi Kurdistan for the simple reason that I was quite often with the locals and I had quite few moments alone but I know that travelers do. If you had to keep one thing in mind it would be without any other to pay attention to landmines. There are many left so it is advisable to stay in the areas where there is passage. During mountain hikes, I always stayed where I saw cattle droppings (herds of goats and sheep).

Travel tips and advices

Language barrier.

Finding someone who speaks English is a bit complicated. You will probably have better luck with young people in big cities. In this region of Iraq, Kurdish is spoken. But contrary to what I saw coming from travelers on the internet before leaving, Arabic is widely used in the region. In a street, it is almost impossible not to find at least one person who Arabic so if you have some knowledge with this language, know that it can be useful to you. By the way, I have talked a lot through translation applications in Kurdistan, and the Kurds never translate your language into Kurdish but into Arabic because the translation is more accurate with it.

SIM card and Internet

The network is very good throughout the region. In town as in the countryside, even if it becomes rare when approaching the mountains or in some remote corners.

Best operators

Asiacell is surely the best operator, it has the best coverage in the whole country. My network has always been excellent with this one. I bought a 40GB SIM card at the airport for the equivalent of twenty dollars. The other 2 main operators are Zain and Korek.

Can you take photos in Iraqi Kurdistan?

This is a question I have been asked several times and I myself had a little doubt. Cameras are not viewed with a negative eye and it is not uncommon for someone to ask you to be photographed. However, avoid photographing women without their consent if you are a man.   Also avoid taking government buildings. You can get yourself into trouble if someone surprises you.

Local customs

● Most people dress modestly and there is no particular dress code to adopt. Many dress in Western style. I have always seen women covered completely but still flirtatious, not much difference with the West. Hijab (veil) is not compulsory.

● Iraqis eat on the ground and it’s very friendly. Be careful not to put your left hand in dishes if it is not to reduce your bread into pieces. ● Taarof : I’ve noticed sometimes that people apply this Iranian courtesy of offering you something like a service for free, for example, and you have to refuse. If the person insists more than twice, it means that the proposal is real. I can’t tell you if it’s taarof like in Iran, but it looks more or less like it in a subtle way.

Hitchhiking in Iraqi Kurdistan

Hitchhiking works wonderfully. The few roads make it much easier, especially since the region is small so it is very easy to get to your destination. However, you will need to tell your driver that you are not paying for the ride. Indeed, most people will take you without asking you for money but in Iraqi Kurdistan, there are many collective taxis who will think you want to board with them. You will see a lot of people waiting along the roads without making any signs. They often wait for a shared taxi to stop so you are likely to fall on it too. Personally I got caught up in a game: if I come across a taxi and well I pay the fare and if I come across someone who is not a taxi I follow the hitchhiking rule, unless I am asked for a contribution obviously.

🔎 Discover my hitchhiking guide

Visa and entry requirements for Iraqi Kurdistan

Iraqi kurdistan visa.

Visa procedures are different from those in federal Iraq. Most of the European Union countries can obtain a travel authorization from 30 days for $60 on arrival. This visa does not allow you to leave Kurdistan. If you wish to stay, know that it is renewable at the embassy in Erbil.

If you plan to visit Federal Iraq AND Iraqi Kurdistan, you can settle for the Iraqi visa. This is valid throughout the country and gives you the opportunity to enter and exit both regions as you see fit.

Can you travel to Iraqi Kurdistan with an Israeli stamp?

Your entry into Iraq may be refused if your passport has an Israeli stamp, as well as any other evidence or suspicion found in your personal belongings.

COVID-19 restrictions

No quarantine imposed. You must present a negative PCR test less than 72 hours before arrival OR provide a vaccination certificate. This information concerns both Iraqi and federal Iraq. You don’t need to do anything to switch from one game to another. – Source : Official data provided by IATA

1. At Erbil International Airport

You can take your PCR test at Erbil Airport . Just know that the result of the RT-PCR tests they do are obtained in less than 2 minutes. Understand that they are simply cashing in your money and your test is not being analyzed. The test costs $30, either. But you will not really know if you are positive or negative and this can be a problem depending on your destination country if you have to take a test on arrival.

2. In Erbil

If not, you can do it at Zanko Health Center . It is the only approved laboratory in Erbil for international flights. It is open from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day and from 8:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. on Fridays.

💵 Price : IQD 40,000 ($25)

Update 2023 : there are no more restrictions.

More details

Feel free to use the comment space if you want to know something that is not in this guide. I will certainly answer it during the day and it will allow me to complete the article in addition to helping you. You may also follow me on Instagram and check all my highlight stories about my travel in Iraqi Kurdistan. Have a good trip in Iraq!

Share this article

About the author

Content you might like

Things to do and places to visit in Iraqi Kurdistan

Find the best things to do and unusual places to visit in this Iraqi Kurdistan travel guide.

Visit Baghdad | Things to do | Travel Guide

What to do in Baghdad? A guide to the city: things to do – places to see – must-see places – safety – where to sleep – how to get out of the city – how to get around (…)

How to visit Karbala: Travel guide

A travel guide to the holy city of Karbala: Imam Hussein’s mausoleum, Ashura, Al Tar caves, Al-Ukhaidir Fortress, etc.

How to visit Samarra: Travel guide

A travel guide to visit the city of Samarra and the Malwiya minaret: how to get there, safety, checkpoints, places to see, where to stay…

Iraq Travel Guide

How to travel to Federal Iraq: a complete guide to visiting the country on your own. Everything you need to know before leaving, including security, formalities, visas, budget, places to visit, transport…

10-day itinerary in Iraq (Federal + Kurdistan)

Visit Iraq in a 10-day travel itinerary and the must-see places: Baghdad, Kurdistan, Samarra, Mosul, Najaf, the Ziggurat of Ur, the Mesopotamian marshes…

Visit Lalish in Iraqi Kurdistan

Lalesh, or Lalish, is the holiest place of the Yazid religion. For believers, this is where the world would have formed, but sources indicate that Lalish has existed for nearly 6,000 years.

Iraq in the past: 35 old photos

Discover Iraq in ancient times through 35 old photographs: Baghdad, Mosul, Karbala, Babylon, Kurdistan, Sinjar, Erbil, Najaf, (…)

How to visit Mosul: Travel guide

A complete travel guide to Mosul: how to get there, safety, where to stay, what to see (Hatra, Bakhdida, Mar Mattai, Museum, Old City…) and how to travel to other destinations in Iraq and Kurdistan

How to visit Babylon: Travel guide

A guide to the archaeological site of Babylon, near Hillah in southern Iraq. Discover this mythical place that was once home to the Hanging Gardens and the Tower of Babel.

Change destination

Insure your trip

Spirit Travelers readers can get a 5% discount for trips less than 3 months

Travel bank

Book an activity

Find the best flight

Want to write an article or a guide? You can do it on Spirit Travelers.com!

Never see this message again

Eligibility Checker

If you are traveling to the Kurdistan Region of Iraq, you might need a visa for your trip. Use our visa search tool below to enter your citizenship country and travel document type to determine if you are required to obtain a visa or not.

Born in Iraq

If your passport or travel document states that your place of birth is Iraq, you do not require a visa to enter the Kurdistan Region of Iraq and do not need to proceed with the application. No delay penalty will be imposed if your residence period exceeds 30 days. If your passport or travel document does not state your place of birth, please provide additional documentation when you arrive at any of the Kurdistan Region of Iraq entry points to prove this.

Rows Per Page

The Blog of Dimi

Traveling to Erbil: The Capital City of Iraqi Kurdistan

Dimitrios Fanourios Pischinas Filed Under: My Travel Stories Published: June 14, 2022 - Updated: June 10, 2024 Leave a Comment

The sun had set over Diyarbakir: Turkey’s most populous Kurdish city. The heat had subsided. And after the Turkish fighter jets’ intimidating flights over the rooftops came to a pause, the quiet was reinstated. It was time to go.

We were soon sitting on the curb of a dark street, backpacks lying on the side, waiting for the bus. As minutes elapsed and no such appeared, I suspected we were in the wrong place. The driver of the bus that did finally come confirmed my suspicion. But since my Turkish wasn’t much better than his nonexistent English, the only hint I received as to the correct location was his backward-pointing finger.

We had plenty of time, so I didn’t panic yet. I began panicking only after the same course was repeated at the second bus stop we tried. At last, however, we got it right on the third try… Or so I hoped.

Anxiously, I attended the transit bus’s wayward course on the GPS. It seemed to take turns at random, meandering around the city’s chaotic complex of still-busy thoroughfares. The public transport company could save a lot on fuel by planning shorter routes; especially since our being the only passengers suggested these weren’t in great demand.

I was clueless as to when or if the driver would decide to steer towards our destination. Despite him nodding, I still doubted whether he’d understood where that was. I relaxed when he ultimately pulled over and pointed us to the central bus terminal in the distance, whither we had to walk across eight unlit motorway lanes, over a tall traffic barrier that bordered them, and through some hundred meters of sandy wasteland.

Thanks to my general prudence in keeping good buffer time, we still had an hour to kill before departure and avoided starvation. Our meal at the station’s sole restaurant was simple but tasty. We complemented it with a hurried chai from the peddler who sauntered along the platform. And then we boarded the bus, ready for a long overnight journey.

This story is an excerpt from my book "Backpacking Iraq", wherein I recount my journey through this misunderstood and fascinating country. The entire book is available to read online for free . But if you'd like to get it on your e-reader or as physical copy (and, doing so, support my creative activity), you may check it out on Amazon .

As usual in Turkey, the bus was plush. The seats were soft and spacious and reclined like the dentist’s. Drinks and snacks were offered lavishly. The chubby driver was a pleasure to interact with; one of those intrinsically jolly men with whom you can share a good laugh without comprehending a single one of each other’s words.

After the city lights faded out in the rear distance, there was only darkness to be seen as we traveled southeast through the arid plains of southeastern Turkey. Past the city of Mardin, we turned east and followed a tediously straight road parallel to the Syrian border.

Opposite was a still-uninvaded by Turkey Kurdish-controlled part of northern Syria. I imagine we would see signs of militarization if anything but the horizon was discernible. Before midnight, we reached the Ibrahim Khalil Turkish-Iraqi border. We now had but 220 km left to our final destination. I wondered how come we weren’t scheduled to arrive before sunup, until I realized the border closes at night. We parked, and the lights went off.

It was still dark when I was woken by the revving engine. A peek at the clock revealed that this wouldn’t remain so for long. We swiftly got stamped out of Turkey and entered the Kurdish immigration office. The queue was long and the clerks slow, but our turn came eventually.

Communication shouldn’t be an issue if, as expected, all we had to do was hand our passports and grab them back. But this didn’t prove to be the case… Several of our fellow border-crossers engaged in the ensuing obfuscation, attempting in creative ways to explain us what the officer wanted. It turned out he wanted money.

Up to the very previous day, we had checked numerous websites, including the official government one, to read that no fee applies to be permitted into the autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan. We tried to argue, but there was no use—not least because no-one understood our arguments.

We had to compromise and pay $80 each, which increased to $100 after adding the exchange rate. For days to follow, I believed they’d ripped us off big time. Only after meeting other travelers, I verified that the rules had indeed changed recently; they just hadn’t yet bothered with updating their site.

The rise of a warm-orange sun found us drinking a cup of tea at a service station a few miles into Iraq. Cragged mountains and barren fields then appeared under a lovely blue sky. Our first day in this fascinating country had just begun. Still early morning, we got off at Erbil’s international bus terminal.

We’d later find out that in Erbil it’s better to move around in taxis; not only because they’re cheap but chiefly because public transport is all but absent. But adhering to habit for now, we zoomed by the touting cab drivers and exited the station in search of a bus to the city center.

Across the noisy main street, a young English-speaking man approached us. He was a Syrian-Kurdish refugee trying to make a living in his new home as an interpreter. I assumed he stationed himself there on purpose, waiting for potential incoming foreign clients. We made clear he wouldn’t find them in us, but he nonetheless volunteered to help us to the bus… or the closest equivalent, anyway.

It was a crumbling minivan. No seats were free, but we somehow squeezed into the rest of the hunched, standing passengers together with our bags. The heat outside felt comforting compared to the suffocation inside when we hopped off downtown.

Now we were on a bustling street. People and cars competed over the scarce space between the lined-up stalls on either side. So did shouts and horns over the frequencies in the air. It took some shoving and near run-overs until we broke free to occupy a piece of uncontested ground to stand in peace and make a plan.

Before anything else, we needed cash and a sim card. It’d be useful to have the latter for finding a place to get the former, but for obvious reasons, this wasn’t a workable sequence. Instead of looking around at random, we located a nearby exchange office on my offline map and made for it.

I had heard that Erbil is a very safe city, but only upon reaching the spot I realized to what an extent. The exchange office, which turned out to be one of many in an array, basically was a stall on the pavement stacked with thick note bundles of various currencies. Not a single security guard was in sight.

The rate was favorable, particularly in comparison with the border. We pocketed our fresh Iraqi dinars and soon employed them at a mobile phone shop. Having secured the essentials, we were ready to… wait.

While still contemplating this journey, research revealed that we’d never make it come true were we to pay every night for accommodation. We needed an alternative. Of course, we had our tent. But we could also do with a little extra comfort if offered. For this first stage of the trip, we’d get sorted by a Couchsurfer; only that we had a good few hours to kill until he finished work in the afternoon.

We wound up at the city’s central square, which was duly dubbed the C ity Park . Surrounded by a citadel, a mosque, and a bazaar… strolled by veiled women and thawbed men… frequented by vendors hawking a thousand wares and one… it felt pretty oriental over there.

At one corner, there was a comely traditional cafe on a balcony overlooking the square. That’s where we settled for as long as it took to feel embarrassed for occupying one of their few coveted tables over two long-empty cups of coffee.

It was past midday by then. We could start walking towards our host’s place if we knew in advance where about that was. But since we didn’t, we picked a direction by hunch and hoped it’d bring us closer. Sure enough, when he finally called, we found out it was the exact opposite one. We about-faced and began eating into the 6 km to his flat.

Outside of the historic old town, the city was typical of a petroleum-driven Middle-Eastern urban center: mostly unutilized broad streets and large structures scattered throughout the bleak land; the sort of place where you see people only behind car windows. We followed one of those streets until we took a turn into a more populated district known as  Naz City .

The main road was relatively lively. A few pedestrians used the narrow pavements, and small shops operated on the ground floors of the low apartment buildings. In one of them, above one of the barbers who occupied every third shop, lived our host.

Ahmed was a young, gentle, and intelligent Syrian man from the country’s prosperous, government-controlled coastal regions. He had recently moved to Erbil to evade mandatory conscription back home. He worked there as a freelancing Arabic teacher for English speakers while endeavoring to fix the capital and paperwork required to fulfill his dream of moving to the US. Besides a generous host, he proved an excellent company during our stay.

His place, frankly speaking, was quite a shithole: a tiny bedroom adjacent to an equally tiny living room with an open-concept kitchen and a ceiling window to a narrow lightwell as its sole source of natural light. For our needs, however, it was little short of a palace. The two couches were long enough to lie straight with feet only dangling off the edge. The dimness allowed for unobstructed snoozing. And there was sufficient space to cram all our stuff in a corner.

After a brief rest, we left our new friend alone to give a scheduled online lesson, agreed to meet later for dinner, and took a taxi back to the center.

The area around the City Park was busy at night. Folks almost jostled through the square and the contiguous streets. Drivers endured the congestion apparently for no reason other than to show off their new, big pickups. Waiter boys rushed all over the place, carrying hookahs and trays with teacups.

We settled on two of the few available, typical-of-Middle-Eastern-teashops dwarf stools on the roadside and engaged in keen people-watching. Our activity’s subjects were at least as interested in us as we were in them. Some greeted us with nods; some with whoops and horns. Others only stared at us snoopily, walking past us with necks swiveled backward and almost crashing on others coming against them.

Time killed, we returned home, cooked dinner, and had some drinks with Ahmed. We went to bed late at night.

We devoted the next day’s first part to a bit of sightseeing…

Once again, we made for the historic center and took the pathway up to the city’s imposing citadel. Built atop one of those artificial mounds that are known throughout the region as  tells , this ancient stronghold is believed to have been inhabited for at least 6,000 years. It ceased being so in 2007, when the municipality evicted all residents to proceed with the site’s intended renovation.

Unfortunately, fifteen years later, it seemed they’d made minimal progress. Out of a maze of paths, only the central street was accessible to the public. Although a few structures were patently refurbished, most of the complex was in shambles. Makeshift scaffolds stood here and there, but not a single worker was on site.

Anyhow, it was a moving experience to walk over those antediluvian grounds and imagine human life during the nascence of civilization. And being on top of the sole elevated position in all of Erbil, we got to marvel at some splendid views of this vast, sparsely built city amid the surrounding desolation.

Then we went for a saunter around the city’s historical market, situated right below the citadel’s southern side. Qayseri Bazaar was established in the 13th century and consists of a mesh of narrow, claustrophobics-unfriendly roofed alleys. Clustered together by kind, shops in there offer a mindboggling variety of merchandise ranging from cheeses to gold jewelry.

The only products I showed interest in were of the imaginative diversity of confection that kept me satiated until dinner time. Sophie also bought a pair of baggy pants that would later prove of value in not scandalizing the conservative portion of Iraq’s Arabic population with her tight leggings.

That was enough sightseeing and shopping for one day. We lounged at a traditional teahouse with a local Couchsurfer and a Dutch couple we met. The consecutive teacups contained more sugar than water and, in combination with the sweets from before, abetted my dental health deterioration.

At around noon, it was time to proceed with the day’s pressing mission: withdraw money…

We were warned beforehand that it’s tough to find ATMs accepting foreign cards in Iraq. I have in the past lived through those long, frustrating days wasted on touring a big city’s cash machines.

We had ensured to procure an ample amount of cash in advance from Turkey. But since I have an unflagging tendency to overestimate my scrimping ability, and especially for the unforeseen border fee, it already on day one became obvious that this amount was, in fact, far short of ample.

Helpfully, Ahmed directed us to a particular ATM that had worked for some of his previous guests. That’s whither we now headed, hoping.

The way was long and grew longer in view of a lengthy detour bypassing the blocked streets around the Kurdish parliament building. We aspired to offset this additional distance via a shortcut across the immense Sami Abdulrahman Park, which used to be a military base during Saddam Hussein’s reign, but this, too, turned out to be restricted. Only a small segment was open to the public. We strolled through it, thus becoming the sole two members of the public making use of its openness.

At last, we reached the bloody ATM. Our agony ended upon hearing the machine’s euphonious telling sound. Although it charged a hefty fee, we were glad to get hold of a fresh bundle of Uncle Sam’s prized paper. We put it to use straight off, buying overpriced coffee and muffins at a Costa’s beside the bank.

Late afternoon, we took a cab to Ankawa. This is an important Assyrian center that hosts the Assyrian Church’s Patriarchal See. It has a long history as a distinct town dating back to the early Christian era. But nowadays, it’s been absorbed into Erbil to make a suburb. Its population grew fourfold with the influx of Assyrian refugees fleeing genocide by the Islamic State.

Besides being a holy place for Christians, it also is an entertainment hub for Muslims. Owing to its laxer religious ethics, the area brims with places to booze carefree and sleazy hotels whose standard clientele does not consist of weary travelers.

We had an interesting evening stroll around this peculiar neighborhood’s streets. Aside from casual Assyrian residents, these bustled with scarfless girls in uncommonly short skirts and surreptitiously straggling Kurdish men.

At some point, we entered a church to check out an ongoing mass. The guard at the entrance requested to see our passports before letting us in, presumably because they don’t allow people from non-Christian countries. Upon seeing my Greek document, he spoke in Greek and invited us in cordially. I assumed he was an evacuee of some formerly IS-controlled territory who first fled to Greece before ending up in Ankawa.

We then met up with a local Kurdish Couchsurfer for a cup of tea. Like most natives of many petrostates, he had a government job that was a job only in the sense that he was getting paid for it, but not in the one that he additionally had to work. He had plenty of free time to build a business of his own while being a regular in Ankawa. He also claimed he had joined the PKK for a spell, but he grew disillusioned with their culture (as well as the uncertainty of long-term survival).

After our chat, he gave us a ride to some place along his way, whence we continued on foot towards a restaurant where we’d meet Ahmed for dinner. We followed the city’s second-outermost ring road, which was bordered by extensive wasteland. That was kept undeveloped to function as a security buffer zone before the airport that lay on the opposite side. I figured that out when I stepped into the bush for a pee and was met by armed guards before I even had time to drain my bladder.

It took some two hours to reach the restaurant. A true Americanophile, Ahmed was fond of the modern and the posh. The place was extravagant in style, and its dressed-like-grooms waiters served us some exquisite Levantine delicacies.

To top those off, we went to a nearby district called  Dream City . It was opulent and exclusive, encircled by tall walls and guarded by armed personnel. At a sumptuous local cafe, we ate the most delicious, generous, and expensive dessert I must have had in my life.

It was past midnight when we made it back home and crashed.

Early next morning, we bid Ahmed a temporary farewell and made our way to the country’s northeastern extremity, where we spent some days trekking in the Zagros Mountains . We passed by Erbil again briefly, transiting between two of its bus stations on our way to Sulaymaniyah . And then we returned and settled at Ahmed’s for a couple more days while preparing for the Arab part of Iraq.

These preparations involved withdrawing money once more, booking tickets and sorting out accommodation, and most frustratingly of all, taking a blasted Covid test…

We took a taxi to a clinic we found online. But the receptionist sent us to another one without explanation. We walked for an hour through the midday heat to see the last departing staff locking the door behind them. We were late to take the test there, but right on time for a doctor to drive us to where we could. It wasn’t quite what you’d call a  clinic —rather a container in a backyard—but we got tested and paid much less than what we expected.

Apart from such things, our second sojourn in Erbil featured a night out in the  Lebanese Village . This tiny burb in the city’s far north end resembled Ankawa in the secular respect. We dined in a fancy garden restaurant whose denizens fell into either of two categories: 1) tacky dudes with pricey-looking watches and gelled hairstyles that could be described as architectural feats, and 2) plump girls with inexpensive (as far as judging from the amount of fabric used) clothes and hairdos inspired by Japanese anime. According to the former, the latter were mostly Iranians on quick business trips.

After these days passed, we left most of our stuff at Ahmed’s place to fly to Baghdad  rid of costly check-in luggage. About a week later, we came back overland from Mosul , collected our possessions, and made straight for the international terminal to catch a bus back to Turkey.

Photo Gallery

View (and if you want use) all my photographs from Erbil .

Hi! I'm Dimi and this blog is my creativity's outlet. I post a wide variety of content such as my books , stories and photographs from my trips around the world, my thoughts , my music , and more. Take a minute to read about the site or start exploring it .

Subscribe for periodical (1 per month at most) newsletters with my latest stories. Or get specific RSS feeds for the site's categories you are interested in.

If you've found this website informative, entertaining, or valuable in any way, please consider supporting my efforts to maintain and enhance it while keeping it ad-free. You can help in any of the following ways...

•Share its content.

•When relevant, use affiliate links displayed throughout the site or in the Partners page .

• Buy my books.

• Buy me a coffee.

Thank you! 😊

Tourism Contact

• Official Site of General Board of Tourism of Kurdistan - Iraq

site sections

• Do Business

kurdistan map

Plan your trip, you are here.

• How to get there

By air The Kurdistan Region is served by two main airports, Erbil and Sulaimaniya international airports. These two main airports are located within the Kurdistan’s two main cities. Various Airlines fly to both airports.

By bus You can take buses from Istanbul to Silopi, the closest town on the Turkish border with Kurdistan, and then take a shared or private taxi across the border to Zakho, the closest town to the border on the Iraqi side. The taxi driver should charge around $50 - $60 to take you across the border.  

Recently more companies are running buses linking Erbil with Diarbakir (about 9-15 hours depending on border traffic) and even Istanbul. The easiest option is to fly (or take a bus) to Diyarbakir - every morning at least 3 busses leave from the Otogar to Duhok (50-60TL, 7hrs), Erbil (70-80TL, 12hrs) and Sulaimaniya.

The border formalities may take as little as 45 minutes. No papers or photocopies are needed with excellent crossing inbound, you will also get a cup of tea in a lounge room with TV while they finish processing your passport.

Buses from in Iraq-bound direction are cheaper than the Turkey-bound buses, prepare 30 USD (towards Erbil) or 40 USD (towards Diyarbakir and to Istanbul and Ankara). Negotiate to get a good price.

From Iran, regular buses connect Tehran to Sulaimaniya. Buses cost approximately 70,000 toman (700,000R Iranian Rials) and are VIP. Most leave at night and will arrive at the border around midday. Be prepared to wait in the bus for some time before disembarking. The border crossing (especially on the Iranian side) can be quite a hassle for non-locals. You will need to buy some kind of exit permit for a fee (about the equivalent of 10$): try to find someone able to translate for you since all signs are in Farsi and it's hard to find any clue of what is being expected from you. 

Tourism Companies

Iraqi kurdistan guide, kurdistan iraq tours, turkish airlines, transporter co. travel and tourism, georgia airways, alvaro for traveling and tourism, laro company, baban company, kurdistan in general.

• General information
• Geography & Geology
• Energy & Economy
• Land & Environment

Good To Know

• The Kurdistan Region in Brief
• General Facts
• Master Plan

Arts & Culture

• Traditions and Heritage
• Music and Traditional Clothing
• Kurdish Architecture
• Kurdish Art and Crafts
• Number of tourists in the Kurdistan Region - Iraq
• Airlines & airports
• Consulates & Foreign Representations
• Explore Region and Cities

Erbil Province

Sulaimaniya province.

• Darbandikhan
• Sulaimaniya

Duhok Province

Halabja province, garmian administration.

• All Things To Do
• Find on Map

Well-being & Spa

Parks & attractions, arts and cultures, food and drink, history and heritage, active and outdoors.

• All Accommodations
• Find On Map

Apartments & Motels

• How to get around
• Practical travel info

Iran-backed fighters ready to join Hezbollah in potential Israel conflict

Iraq's Asaib Ahl Al-Haq leader threatens US interests over support for Israeli actions in Lebanon

Dollar prices edge higher in Baghdad and Erbil

Return to old Mosul: concerns amid war remnants

Tourists flock to Erbil, express satisfaction with hospitality and entry procedures

Shafaq News/ With a significant influx of tourists to Erbil, the capital of the Kurdistan Region, many have expressed their happiness with their visit and the entry procedures implemented by authorities.

Shafaq News Agency surveyed several tourists about their experiences in the Kurdistan Region and the main areas they visited.

Amina Saeed, a Baghdad resident, told Shafaq News Agency, "The atmosphere throughout the Kurdistan Region is very beautiful, especially in Erbil. Despite the high temperatures, the weather in tourist areas like Bekhal, Jondian, and Choman is very moderate. The stunning natural scenery makes the region a favorite tourist destination for Iraqis, especially during holidays and vacations."

Rashid Abdullah, a resident of Saladin, commented on the entry procedures, stating, "The entry process into Erbil from the Sherara checkpoint was smooth. The only delay was due to the large number of tourists arriving simultaneously, but overall, the governorate is very well-organized."

Regarding prices in local markets, Ibrahim, a tourist from Baghdad, noted, "Prices vary between the governorates of the Kurdistan Region and other Iraqi governorates, especially in tourist areas. However, not all goods are expensive, and prices are more reasonable in local markets compared to large commercial centers."

Katya, a tourist from Syria, shared her positive experience, saying, "The hospitality in the Kurdistan Region, especially in Erbil, is wonderful. There is no discrimination, particularly against Syrians. Kurdistan has become an excellent choice for those looking to enjoy their holidays, with affordable prices, easy government procedures, friendly locals, and beautiful tourist areas and resorts with breathtaking natural scenery."

Notably, during the four days of Eid al-Adha, Erbil welcomed over 117,000 tourists, according to local government sources. The majority were from central and southern Iraqi governorates, along with a significant number of non-Iraqi tourists, primarily from neighboring countries like Syria, Iran, and Turkiye.

Last April, Kurdistan's tourism industry experienced remarkable growth in 2024, welcoming over 1.7 million visitors in the first quarter,

Ibrahim Abdul Majeed, the media officer at the Kurdistan Tourism Board, said the Eid al-Fitr holiday period, spanning from April 8 to 13, witnessed a particularly significant influx of tourists, with over 200,000 individuals seeking respite in the region's ambiance.

Domestic tourists within the Kurdistan Region, estimated at 150,000 individuals, also contributed to the tourism boom, with many enjoying the region's beaches, historical sites, and recreational activities.

"The region boasts over 3,100 tourist facilities and 1,075 accommodation options, catering to a wide variety of traveler preferences," he said.

Related News

Syria Kurds return 25 Yazidis freed from IS to Iraq

An alliance reveals political deals and attempts to change Al-Halbusi

Earthquake hits south Iraq

Iraqi Meteorological Organization and Seismology issues a report about an earthquake south of Iraq

An American giant adds 125 megawatts to the Iraqi electricity network

Two people killed and others injured in double bombings in an Iraqi province

Shafaq news english

It Looked Like a Reliable News Site. It Was an A.I. Chop Shop.

BNN Breaking had millions of readers, an international team of journalists and a publishing deal with Microsoft. But it was full of error-ridden content.

Credit... Valentin Tkach

Supported by

• Share full article

By Kashmir Hill and Tiffany Hsu

• Published June 6, 2024 Updated June 10, 2024

The news was featured on MSN.com: “Prominent Irish broadcaster faces trial over alleged sexual misconduct.” At the top of the story was a photo of Dave Fanning.

But Mr. Fanning, an Irish D.J. and talk-show host famed for his discovery of the rock band U2, was not the broadcaster in question.

“You wouldn’t believe the amount of people who got in touch,” said Mr. Fanning, who called the error “outrageous.”

The falsehood, visible for hours on the default homepage for anyone in Ireland who used Microsoft Edge as a browser, was the result of an artificial intelligence snafu.

A fly-by-night journalism outlet called BNN Breaking had used an A.I. chatbot to paraphrase an article from another news site, according to a BNN employee. BNN added Mr. Fanning to the mix by including a photo of a “prominent Irish broadcaster.” The story was then promoted by MSN, a web portal owned by Microsoft.

The story was deleted from the internet a day later, but the damage to Mr. Fanning’s reputation was not so easily undone, he said in a defamation lawsuit filed in Ireland against Microsoft and BNN Breaking. His is just one of many complaints against BNN, a site based in Hong Kong that published numerous falsehoods during its short time online as a result of what appeared to be generative A.I. errors.

BNN went dormant in April, while The New York Times was reporting this article. The company and its founder did not respond to multiple requests for comment. Microsoft had no comment on MSN’s featuring the misleading story with Mr. Fanning’s photo or his defamation case, but the company said it had terminated its licensing agreement with BNN.

During the two years that BNN was active, it had the veneer of a legitimate news service, claiming a worldwide roster of “seasoned” journalists and 10 million monthly visitors, surpassing the The Chicago Tribune’s self-reported audience . Prominent news organizations like The Washington Post , Politico and The Guardian linked to BNN’s stories. Google News often surfaced them, too.

A closer look, however, would have revealed that individual journalists at BNN published lengthy stories as often as multiple times a minute, writing in generic prose familiar to anyone who has tinkered with the A.I. chatbot ChatGPT. BNN’s “About Us” page featured an image of four children looking at a computer, some bearing the gnarled fingers that are a telltale sign of an A.I.-generated image.

How easily the site and its mistakes entered the ecosystem for legitimate news highlights a growing concern: A.I.-generated content is upending, and often poisoning , the online information supply.

Many traditional news organizations are already fighting for traffic and advertising dollars. For years, they competed for clicks against pink slime journalism — so-called because of its similarity to liquefied beef, an unappetizing, low-cost food additive.

Low-paid freelancers and algorithms have churned out much of the faux-news content, prizing speed and volume over accuracy. Now, experts say, A.I. could turbocharge the threat, easily ripping off the work of journalists and enabling error-ridden counterfeits to circulate even more widely — as has already happened with travel guidebooks , celebrity biographies and obituaries .

The result is a machine-powered ouroboros that could squeeze out sustainable, trustworthy journalism. Even though A.I.-generated stories are often poorly constructed, they can still outrank their source material on search engines and social platforms, which often use A.I. to help position content. The artificially elevated stories can then divert advertising spending, which is increasingly assigned by automated auctions without human oversight.

NewsGuard, a company that monitors online misinformation, identified more than 800 websites that use A.I. to produce unreliable news content. The websites, which seem to operate with little to no human supervision, often have generic names — such as iBusiness Day and Ireland Top News — that are modeled after actual news outlets. They crank out material in more than a dozen languages, much of which is not clearly disclosed as being artificially generated, but could easily be mistaken as being created by human writers.

The quality of the stories examined by NewsGuard is often poor, the company said, and they frequently include false claims about political leaders, celebrity death hoaxes and other fabricated events.

Real Identities, Used by A.I.

“You should be utterly ashamed of yourself,” one person wrote in an email to Kasturi Chakraborty, a journalist based in India whose byline was on BNN’s story with Mr. Fanning’s photo.

Ms. Chakraborty worked for BNN Breaking for six months, with dozens of other journalists, mainly freelancers with limited experience, based in countries like Pakistan, Egypt and Nigeria, where the salary of around $1,000 per month was attractive. They worked remotely, communicating via WhatsApp and on weekly Google Hangouts.

Former employees said they thought they were joining a legitimate news operation; one had mistaken it for BNN Bloomberg, a Canadian business news channel. BNN’s website insisted that “accuracy is nonnegotiable” and that “every piece of information underwent rigorous checks, ensuring our news remains an undeniable source of truth.”

But this was not a traditional journalism outlet. While the journalists could occasionally report and write original articles, they were asked to primarily use a generative A.I. tool to compose stories, said Ms. Chakraborty and Hemin Bakir, a journalist based in Iraq who worked for BNN for almost a year. They said they had uploaded articles from other news outlets to the generative A.I. tool to create paraphrased versions for BNN to publish.

Mr. Bakir, who now works at a broadcast network called Rudaw, said that he had been skeptical of this approach but that BNN’s founder, a serial entrepreneur named Gurbaksh Chahal, had described it as “a revolution in the journalism industry .”

Mr. Chahal’s evangelism carried weight with his employees because of his wealth and seemingly impressive track record, they said. Born in India and raised in Northern California, Mr. Chahal made millions in the online advertising business in the early 2000s and wrote a how-to book about his rags-to-riches story that landed him an interview with Oprah Winfrey. A business trend chaser, he created a cryptocurrency (briefly promoted by Paris Hilton ) and manufactured Covid tests during the pandemic.

But he also had a criminal past. In 2013, he attacked his girlfriend at the time, and was accused of hitting and kicking her more than 100 times, generating significant media attention because it was recorded by a video camera he had installed in the bedroom of his San Francisco penthouse. The 30-minute recording was deemed inadmissible by a judge, however, because the police had seized it without a warrant. Mr. Chahal pleaded guilty to battery, was sentenced to community service and lost his role as chief executive at RadiumOne, an online marketing company.

After an arrest involving another domestic violence incident with a different partner in 2016, he served six months in jail.

Mr. Chahal, now 41, eventually relocated to Hong Kong, where he started BNN Breaking in 2022. On LinkedIn, he described himself as the founder of ePiphany AI, a large language learning model that he said was superior to ChatGPT; this was the tool that BNN used to generate its stories, according to former employees.

Mr. Chahal claimed he had created ePiphany, but it was so similar to ChatGPT and other A.I. chatbots that employees assumed he had licensed another company’s software.

Mr. Chahal did not respond to multiple requests for comment for this article. One person who did talk to The Times for this article received a threat from Mr. Chahal for doing so.

At first, employees were asked to put articles from other news sites into the tool so that it could paraphrase them, and then to manually “validate” the results by checking them for errors, Mr. Bakir said. A.I.-generated stories that weren’t checked by a person were given a generic byline of BNN Newsroom or BNN Reporter. But eventually, the tool was churning out hundreds, even thousands, of stories a day — far more than the team could “validate.”

Mr. Chahal told Mr. Bakir to focus on checking stories that had a significant number of readers, such as those republished by MSN.com.

Employees did not want their bylines on stories generated purely by A.I., but Mr. Chahal insisted on this. Soon, the tool randomly assigned their names to stories.

This crossed a line for some BNN employees, according to screenshots of WhatsApp conversations reviewed by The Times, in which they told Mr. Chahal that they were receiving complaints about stories they didn’t realize had been published under their names.

“It tarnished our reputations,” Ms. Chakraborty said.

Mr. Chahal did not seem sympathetic. According to three journalists who worked at BNN and screenshots of WhatsApp conversations reviewed by The Times, Mr. Chahal regularly directed profanities at employees and called them idiots and morons. When employees said purely A.I.-generated news, such as the Fanning story, should be published under the generic “BNN Newsroom” byline, Mr. Chahal was dismissive.

“When I do this, I won’t have a need for any of you,” he wrote on WhatsApp.

Mr. Bakir replied to Mr. Chahal that assigning journalists’ bylines to A.I.-generated stories was putting their integrity and careers in “jeopardy.”

“You are fired,” Mr. Chahal responded, and removed him from the WhatsApp group.

Countless Mistakes

Over the past year, BNN racked up numerous complaints about getting facts wrong, fabricating quotes from experts and stealing content and photos from other news sites without credit or compensation.

One disinformation researcher reviewed more than 1,000 BNN stories and concluded that a quarter of them had been lifted from five sites, including Reuters, The Associated Press and the BBC. Another researcher found evidence that BNN had placed its logo on images that it did not own or license.

The Times identified multiple inaccuracies and context-free statements in BNN stories that seemed to extend beyond simple human error. There were sources who were misattributed or absent, descriptions of specific events without references to where or when they occurred and a collage of gun imagery illustrating a story about microwaves. One story, about journalists tackling disinformation at a literature festival, invented a panelist and incorrectly included another.

After BNN suggested that Dungeness crabs, which are from the West Coast, were native to Maryland, an official with the state’s Department of Natural Resources chastised BNN on X , calling on Google to “delist these stupid AI outfits that aggregate news and get things wildly incorrect.”

After a lawyer complained on LinkedIn that a story on BNN had invented quotes from him, BNN removed him from the story. BNN also changed the date on the story to one before the publication date on an opinion column that the lawyer believed was the source of the quote.

The story with the photo of Mr. Fanning, which Ms. Chakraborty said had been generated by A.I. with her name randomly assigned to it, was published because news about the trial of an Irish broadcaster accused of sexual misconduct was trending. The broadcaster wasn’t named in the original article because he had a super injunction — a gag order that forbids news media to name a person in its coverage — so the A.I. presumably paired the text with a generic photo of a “prominent Irish broadcaster.”

Mr. Fanning’s lawyers at Meagher Solicitors, an Irish firm that specializes in defamation cases, reached out to BNN and never received a response, though the story was deleted from BNN’s and MSN’s sites. In January, he filed a defamation case against BNN and Microsoft in the High Court of Ireland. BNN responded by publishing a story that month about Mr. Fanning that accused him of “desperate tactics in money hustling lawsuit.”

This was a strategy that Mr. Chahal favored, according to former BNN employees. He used his news service to exercise grudges, publishing slanted stories about a politician from San Francisco he disliked, Wikipedia after it published a negative entry about BNN Breaking and Elon Musk after accounts belonging to Mr. Chahal, his wife and his companies were suspended on X.

A Strong Motivator

The appeal of using A.I. for news is clear: money.

The increasing popularity of programmatic advertising — which uses algorithms to automatically place ads across the internet — allows A.I.-powered news sites to generate revenue by mass-producing low-quality clickbait content, said Sander van der Linden, a social psychology professor and fake-news expert at the University of Cambridge.

Experts are nervous about how A.I.-fueled news could overwhelm accurate reporting with a deluge of junk content distorted by machine-powered repetition. A particular worry is that A.I. aggregators could chip away even further at the viability of local journalism , siphoning away its revenue and damaging its credibility by contaminating the information ecosystem.

Many audiences already struggle to discern machine-generated material from reports produced by human journalists, Mr. van der Linden said.

“It’s going to have a negative impact on trusted news,” he said.

Local news outlets say A.I. operations like BNN are leeches: stealing intellectual property by disgorging journalists’ work, then monetizing the theft by gaming search algorithms to raise their profile among advertisers.

“We’re no longer getting any slice of the advertising cake, which used to support our journalism, but are left with a few crumbs,” said Anton van Zyl, the owner of the Limpopo Mirror in South Africa, whose articles, it seemed, had been rewritten by BNN .

In March, Google rolled out an update to “reduce unoriginal content in search results,” targeting sites with “spammy” content, whether produced by “automation, humans or a combination,” according to a corporate blog post . BNN’s stories stopped showing up in search results soon after.

Before ending its agreement with BNN Breaking, Microsoft had licensed content from the site for MSN.com, as it does with reputable news organizations such as Bloomberg and The Wall Street Journal, republishing their articles and splitting the advertising revenue .

CNN recently reported that Microsoft-hired editors who once curated the articles featured on MSN.com have increasingly been replaced by A.I. Microsoft confirmed that it used a combination of automated systems and human review to curate content on MSN.

BNN stopped publishing stories in early April and deleted its content. Visitors to the site now find BNNGPT, an A.I. chatbot that, when asked, says it was built using open-source models.

But Mr. Chahal wasn’t abandoning the news business. Within a week or so of BNN Breaking’s shutting down, the same operation moved to a new website called TrimFeed.

TrimFeed’s About Us page had the same set of values that BNN Breaking’s had, promising “a media landscape free of distortions.” On Tuesday, after a reporter informed Mr. Chahal that this article would soon be published, TrimFeed shut down as well.

Kashmir Hill writes about technology and how it is changing people’s everyday lives with a particular focus on privacy. She has been covering technology for more than a decade. More about Kashmir Hill

Tiffany Hsu reports on misinformation and disinformation and its origins, movement and consequences. She has been a journalist for more than two decades. More about Tiffany Hsu

Explore Our Coverage of Artificial Intelligence

News  and Analysis

Target is the latest retailer to put a generative A.I. chatbot in the hands of its workers, with the goal of improving the in-store experience  for employees and shoppers.

Ilya Sutskever, the OpenAI co-founder and chief scientist, has helped found a new A.I. company, Safe Superintelligence, which aims to build A.I. technologies  that are smarter than a human but not dangerous.

Nvidia has leapfrogged Microsoft and Apple to become the world’s most valuable public company , an ascent that has been powered by demand for the company’s chips, which have made it possible to create A.I. systems.

The Age of A.I.

While some big companies are finding uses for A.I., many smaller businesses are just starting to dabble in the technology , if they use it at all.

First came “spam.” Now, a new term has emerged to describe dubious A.I.-generated material: “slop.”

BNN Breaking had millions of readers, an international team of journalists and a publishing deal with Microsoft. But it was full of what appeared to be generative A.I. errors .

Advertisement