trek bike frame cracked

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TREK Domane SLR7 2021 frame crack

• Thread starter The_Kruiser
• Start date 22 Aug 2021

The_Kruiser

• 22 Aug 2021

I bought the TREK domane SLR7 less than 2 months back. Since few weeks I have been hearing a unusual click noise when I ride. Took it few times to the trek repair shop and they said it's all OK. Today I asked them to remove the crank set to check and behind then crank there is a huge Crack in the bike frame. I haven't had a single fall or accident .The crank set has no scratches on it and no damage at all. Has anyone experienced something like this? I have asked the dealer to claim warranty but they said trek will investigate and might take 3 to 4 months. I can't seem to understand how has a new frame cracked in less than 2 months.  

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Legendary Member

Did you buy it new ? Are you the first owner ?  

By any chance has your chain come off and got jammed down there?  

Puzzle game procrastinator!

Chislenko said: By any chance has your chain come off and got jammed down there? Click to expand...

In which case all bets are off but it's in the chain stay which wouldn't be an obvious place for chain off damage.  

Can't spell, Can't Punctuate....Sue Me

Dont need to take the crankset off to see that crack….but there does seem an aweful amount of damage around the BB for a 2mth old bike…..  

Looking at it more closely it does appear to have had an impact of some sort so maybe I was wrong about the chain. The rear part of the crack has lifted suggesting that whatever hit it was pulled away opening up the crack. A manufacturing fault wouldn't be open and uneven like that.  

You have to keep pushing for a warranty claim and see what their inspection throws up. I honestly wish you luck with that because that bike's unrideable. That said, there's an awful lot of marks around the bottom bracket area and my guess is they'll query that, certainly for the short period of time you say you've had the bike. At some time or other we've all dropped a chain - it happens even with the pros, take today's Vuelta stage for example - but a dropped chain shouldn't do that sort of damage to a bike. If it did no one would buy carbon bikes. I've had a carbon bike for 14 years and dropped the chain a few times with no visible damage.  

bikingdad90

When you put the clipless pedals on did you have any bother removing the OEM ones that the bike came with? I’m not an expert by wondering if the force applied to remove the pedals was enough to crack the carbon and over time it has worsened?  

Ride It Like You Stole It!

I'm seeing alot of damage there like keeping pedalling if the chain came off.  

Über Member

I too was going to say Trek warranty job no problem usually all sorted within a few weeks. Then I look at all that damage and I think you’re going to need a lot of luck and goodwill. What on earth have you done to that bike in only two months? I've a 10 yo Domane with nothing at all like that.  

No help but .... I’ll stick with Steel ...  

CF can be repaired fairly easily though.  

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How To Tell If Bike Frame Is Cracked – Complete Guide

Are you a passionate cyclist who loves hitting the road or trail on two wheels? Then you know how important it is to keep your bike in top condition for maximum performance and safety. One of the most critical parts of your bike that needs regular checking is the frame. A cracked bike frame can spell disaster, leading to accidents, injuries, and costly repairs.

In this blog post, we’ll show you how to tell if bike frame is cracked and what steps you can take to prevent or deal with such an issue. So buckle up (or helmet up) as we dive into this essential topic for all cycling enthusiasts out there!

Table of Contents

What Are The Signs Of A Cracked Bike Frame?

A cracked bike frame can be a serious safety hazard, so it’s important to know the signs of a potential problem. One of the most obvious indicators is damage to the paint or visible cracks in the frame itself. However, not all cracks are immediately apparent and more subtle changes may indicate an issue. If you notice unusual vibrations or noises while riding your bike, this could also be a sign that something is wrong with your frame. Cracks can cause parts to shift or become loose, leading to these types of symptoms. Another telltale sign is if you notice any flexing or bending in your bike when you apply pressure while pedaling. This could mean that there’s an underlying structural issue causing weakness in certain areas of the frame.

How To Inspect Your Bike Frame For Cracks

Inspecting your bike frame for cracks is an essential part of maintaining the safety and longevity of your bicycle. Thankfully, with a few simple steps, you can easily check if your bike has any cracks or damages. Firstly, inspect the surface of your bike frame closely. Look for any visible signs of damage on both sides, including scratches or dents. Any obvious deformations are surefire indications that something’s wrong. Next, focus on joints and other areas where metal parts meet. Using a flashlight might help in illuminating these hidden corners to look for cracks more carefully. Don’t forget to examine every nook and cranny since some fractures may be quite small! Then give it a physical test by pulling apart areas with excess pressure or trying to move them sideways slightly while gripping both ends firmly with both hands. If there’s too much flex, then it could mean there is internal damage that isn’t immediately visible.

How to Tell If Bike Frame Is Cracked: Signs to Look Out For

To ensure your safety while cycling, it’s essential to inspect and maintain your bike frame regularly. Here are some signs that suggest your bike frame may be cracked:

• Firstly, check for cracks in the paint on the frame. The presence of hairline or deep scratches could signify an underlying crack.
• Secondly, look out for visible damage such as dents, bends or deformities on the tubes and joints of the frame.
• Thirdly, take a closer look at any separation at joints where two parts of the frame meet. If there is movement between these sections when handling your bike then this indicates that they’ve come apart from each other due to a crack.
• During rides watch out for unusual vibrations felt through handlebars or seat indicating possible structural issues with your bike’s integrity.
• Unusual noises can also indicate problems with bearings/bushings within frames which could lead towards eventual failure if not addressed promptly enough by regular maintenance checks done throughout riding seasons!
• Lastly flexing or bending under normal riding conditions is another sign meaning that something might have gone wrong inside – so take heed if you notice any warping happening around important areas like bottom bracket shells near cranks etcetera!

Importance of Checking Your Bike Frame Regularly

The importance of checking your bike frame regularly cannot be overstated. A cracked bike frame can cause serious accidents, putting your safety at risk. Therefore, it is essential to inspect your bike frame for cracks on a regular basis. Not only does regular inspection help prevent accidents, but it also extends the lifespan of your bike. By catching any issues early, you can address them before they become more severe and costly to repair. It’s important to remember that even if you don’t ride frequently or take good care of your bike, wear and tear can still occur over time. Checking for cracks should be part of every cyclist’s routine maintenance schedule.

Visual Inspection

Visual Inspection is one of the easiest ways to check if your bike frame is cracked. It involves a thorough inspection using your eyes to look for any visible signs of damage or cracks on the frame. One of the first things you should do during a visual inspection is to check for cracks in the paint. Even small hairline fractures can be an indication that there might be something wrong with the bike’s frame. Scratches and dents in parts near joints could also mean that there has been stress put on those areas and may have caused damage to the structure of your bike. Another thing to pay attention to during visual inspections are visible damages like bends, warps, bulges or creases in various parts such as tubes and welds. These are tell-tale signs that something more serious might be going on inside your bike’s structure. It’s essential always looking out for separation at joints since this indicates movement between two pieces which shouldn’t happen because they’re supposed to work together cohesively without moving independently from each other.

1. Cracks in the Paint

One of the most common signs that your bike frame might be cracked is when you see cracks in the paint. These cracks usually occur around areas where there’s a lot of stress or impact, such as around welds or joints. It’s important to note that not all cracks in your bike’s paint indicate frame damage. Some scratches and chips are purely cosmetic and can easily be fixed with touch-up paint. However, if you notice any long, continuous lines in the paint that appear to follow the shape of the tubing, it could indicate something more serious. To inspect for this type of damage, look closely at all areas where there has been a recent impact or stress placed on your bike. This includes places like near the bottom bracket, head tube area and dropouts.

2. Visible Damage

Visible damage to a bike frame is one of the most obvious signs that something is wrong. If you notice any visible cracks, dents or bends in your bike frame, this could indicate that it’s been compromised and should be inspected by a professional. One common type of visible damage is caused by impact from an object such as rocks or curbs. This can cause small dings or larger dents in the frame which can weaken its structure over time. Another type of visible damage could be scratches on the surface of your bike’s paint job. This may seem innocuous at first glance but it could hide more serious problems underneath. Scratches expose the metal beneath the paint which can lead to corrosion if not attended to promptly. It’s important to remember that even minor impacts or falls can cause significant damage to your bike frame, so it’s always worth inspecting for any signs of wear and tear after each ride.

3. Separation at Joints

Another sign of a cracked bike frame that you should look out for during your visual inspection is separation at joints. The joints are the areas where two tubes meet and are joined together, such as the head tube, bottom bracket shell, or seat post collar. One way to check for separation at joints is by pushing and pulling on the different parts of your bike frame. If you notice any movement or creaking sounds when doing this, it could be an indication that there’s a problem with one of the joints. Another way to check for separation at joints is by looking closely at each joint to see if there are any cracks or gaps between the different tubes. This can sometimes be difficult to see with the naked eye but using a flashlight may help. Separation at joints can occur due to various reasons such as crashes, wear and tear over time or manufacturing issues. It’s important not to ignore these signs since they can lead to complete failure of your bike frame while riding which could result in serious injury or even death.

Physical Inspection

Physical Inspection is an important aspect of checking your bike frame for cracks. It involves looking out for unusual vibrations, noises, flex or bends in the frame that may indicate a potential crack. One way to check for unusual vibrations is to ride your bike and pay attention to how it feels. If you notice any excessive shaking or rattling, it could be a sign of a cracked frame. Unusual noises are another indication that something may be wrong with your bike’s frame. Listen out for creaking or cracking sounds when riding over bumps or rough terrain, as this can also point towards a cracked frame. Flex or bend in the frame can occur due to damage from crashes or pressure from regular use. To check if there is any flex in your bike’s frame, apply gentle pressure on different parts of the bicycle and observe if there are any visible deformities.

1. Unusual Vibrations

One of the telltale signs that your bike frame may be cracked is if you experience unusual vibrations while riding. These vibrations can be felt in different parts of the bike, such as the handlebars or saddle. If you notice any sudden changes in how your bike rides, it’s important to investigate further and check for possible cracks in the frame. Cracks can cause flexing and bending of the frame, which creates an imbalance while riding and leads to those unusual vibrations. It’s important to take note of when these vibrations occur – are they happening consistently throughout your ride or only during certain movements? This information can help identify where exactly on the frame a crack may be located.

2. Unusual Noises

When you’re riding your bike, it’s normal to hear some noises. However, if you notice unusual or persistent noises, it could be a sign of a cracked bike frame. Unusual sounds could include creaks, clicks or squeaks that occur when you put pressure on the pedals. One way to identify where the noise is coming from is by standing next to your bike and pushing down on one pedal at a time while holding onto the handlebars. This should help isolate which area of the frame is making noise. Another clue might be when you experience an unusual amount of vibration in certain areas such as the seat post or handlebars. These vibrations can indicate that there’s something wrong with your bike frame.

3. Flex or Bend

Another way to tell if your bike frame is cracked is by checking for any flex or bend when you ride. A properly functioning bike should have a solid and stable feel while riding, so any unusual wobbling or bending could indicate a crack in the frame. One way to check for this is by standing over your bike with one foot on either side of the frame and applying pressure in opposite directions. If you notice any give or flexibility in the middle of the frame, there may be a crack present. Another method is to ride your bike on a flat surface and pay attention to how it feels as you pedal. If you experience excessive bouncing or swaying, this could also indicate that there is an issue with the integrity of your frame.

Professional Inspection

If you suspect that your bike frame is cracked, it’s always a good idea to have it inspected by a professional. A qualified bike mechanic or technician can help identify any damage and evaluate the severity of the crack.

1.Bike Shop Evaluation

When it comes to evaluating your bike frame for cracks, taking it to a professional bike shop is always a good idea. These experts have the necessary knowledge and experience to properly inspect your bike frame and identify any potential issues. During a bike shop evaluation, the mechanic will perform a thorough inspection of your entire bicycle, including the frame. They may use special tools like magnifying glasses or even x-rays to ensure that all parts of the frame are intact. If they do find any cracks or damage on your bike’s frame during their inspection, they can advise you on what repairs need to be done or if it’s time for a new frame altogether. While some riders may prefer DIY inspections at home, there are several benefits in having an expert evaluate your bike. Not only can they provide accurate results, but also offer advice on maintenance tips and how to avoid future problems with your ride.

2. Ultrasonic Testing

Ultrasonic testing, also known as UT, is a non-destructive method of detecting cracks and defects in bike frames. The process involves sending high-frequency sound waves through the material to identify any changes or disruptions in the pattern. This type of testing is typically performed by trained professionals using specialized equipment. It can detect even the smallest cracks that may not be visible to the naked eye. During ultrasonic testing, a small amount of gel is applied to the surface of the frame and an ultrasound probe is placed on top. The probe sends out sound waves which travel through the material until they hit a boundary or defect, where they are reflected back towards the probe. The returned signals are then analyzed by software to determine if there are any irregularities in thickness or density which could indicate a crack or fault.

Common Signs of a Cracked Bike Frame

Common Signs of a Cracked Bike Frame A cracked bike frame is not always easy to detect, but there are some common signs that you can look out for. One of the most obvious signs is a crack in the paint. This could appear as a hairline fracture or as a more substantial gap in the paintwork. Another sign to be aware of is visible damage on your bike frame. If you notice any dents, scrapes or scratches it’s worth checking underneath the surface to see if there is any further damage. Separation at joints can also indicate that your bike frame may have developed cracks. Check places like where the seat tube meets the top tube and where chainstays meet either side of bottom bracket shell. Unusual vibrations while cycling can be another indication that something isn’t quite right with your bike frame. Similarly, unusual noises such as creaking or clicking could mean that parts of your bike are moving when they shouldn’t be.

Types of Bike Frame Cracks

Top tube crack.

The top tube is the horizontal part of the bike frame that connects the seat tube and head tube. It’s a crucial component for transferring weight and absorbing shock while riding. A top tube crack is one of the most common types of bike frame damage, often caused by crashes or metal fatigue. One way to detect a top tube crack is to visually inspect it. Look for any visible cracks, dents, or bulges on the surface of the top tube. If you see any irregularities, run your fingers along them to feel if there are any cracks beneath them. Another way to check for a potential crack in your bike’s top tube is by performing a tap test. Simply grab a coin or small tool like an Allen key and tap around on different parts of your bike’s frame. If you hear a dull thud instead of a clear ring when tapping on the top tube area, then this could be an indication that there may be some internal damage.

Seat Tube Crack

The seat tube is a vertical part of the bike frame that connects the bottom bracket to the saddle. A crack in this area can be especially dangerous, as it can cause your saddle and post to become loose or even detach from the rest of the frame. So how do you spot a seat tube crack? Look for any visible damage on or around this area of the frame, such as paint chipping or flaking off. You may also notice an unusual creaking noise when pedaling, which could indicate movement within a cracked seat tube. If you suspect that your bike’s seat tube has been compromised, don’t ride it until you’ve had it inspected by a professional mechanic. Continuing to use a damaged bike puts you at risk for serious injury if something were to fail while riding.

Chainstay Crack

The chainstay is the part of the frame that connects the bottom bracket to the rear dropouts. It plays a critical role in supporting your weight and providing stability during rides. However, it’s also one of the most susceptible areas to damage and cracks. One way to check for a chainstay crack is by applying pressure on both sides of the chainstays while inspecting them visually. If you notice any visible cracks or if there are creaking sounds coming from this area when riding, then chances are high that your bike has a cracked chainstay. Chainstay cracks can occur as a result of various factors such as overuse, wear and tear or accidents. However, they can be caused by manufacturing defects too. It’s important not to overlook this problem because riding with a cracked chainstay puts your safety at risk. The last thing you need is for your bike frame to fail while cycling at high speeds! So if you suspect that your bike has a cracked chainstay take it to an expert mechanic immediately for further inspection and repair work.

Head Tube Crack

Thus, a cracked bike frame can be very dangerous if neglected. Always check your bike frame for cracks regularly and take prompt action when you notice any sign of damage. When it comes to the head tube, this is where the front fork is connected to the bike frame. It’s an essential part that keeps your handlebars in place as you ride. A crack on the head tube can cause severe problems because it compromises the structural integrity of your entire bike. If you notice any signs of a head tube crack, such as creaking sounds or wobbling handlebars, stop riding immediately and have it inspected by a professional mechanic. If left unchecked, a head tube crack can lead to catastrophic accidents that could result in injuries or even death.

What to Do If You Discover a Crack

Discovering a crack in your bike frame can be an alarming experience, but it’s important to know what steps to take next. The first thing you should do is stop riding the bike immediately to prevent further damage or injury. It’s best not to attempt any repairs yourself, as this could potentially worsen the situation. The next step would be to assess the severity of the crack and determine if it can be repaired or if you need to replace the frame entirely. Small cracks may only require a simple repair from a professional bike mechanic, while larger cracks may necessitate purchasing an entirely new frame. If you have warranty coverage on your bike, check with the manufacturer about their policies regarding cracked frames. Some manufacturers offer replacement frames or discounts towards a new one under certain circumstances. If you decide on repairing rather than replacing your frame, make sure that an experienced professional handles it so that no further damages occur during repairs. It’s also essential that they inspect for other underlying issues beyond just fixing the visible crack.

Preventive Measures to Avoid Frame Cracks

Preventing bike frame cracks should be a top priority for every rider. There are several preventive measures that you can take to avoid any damage to your bike’s frame. Firstly, it is essential to invest in high-quality components and parts for your bike. These components must be compatible with your bicycle and its intended use. Using mismatched or substandard materials can put unnecessary stress on the frame, leading to eventual cracking. Secondly, proper maintenance of the bike is crucial in preventing damage to the frame. Regular cleaning, lubrication of moving parts, and replacing worn-out components will help keep your bicycle functioning at its best while reducing wear and tear on the frame. Thirdly, it is important to avoid extreme riding conditions such as rough terrain or excessive loads that may cause undue stress on the bicycle’s structure. Similarly, ensuring correct installation of accessories like racks or panniers will prevent overloading of one side causing uneven pressure distribution which could lead t o fractures.

What To Do If You Find A Crack In Your Bike Frame

If you find a crack in your bike frame, the first thing to do is to stop riding it immediately. Continuing to ride can cause the crack to worsen and potentially lead to catastrophic failure while riding. After stopping, assess the severity of the crack. If it’s just a small surface crack on the paint or finish, then it may not be too serious. However, if there’s any visible damage or separation at joints, then it’s likely that the frame has been compromised. Next, take your bike to a professional for an evaluation. A qualified mechanic will be able to determine whether or not the frame can be repaired safely or needs replacing altogether. If repairs are possible, make sure they’re carried out by an experienced and reputable repair shop with knowledge of bike frames specifically. Remember that welding or patching up cracks may weaken other parts of your bike frame over time.

Q1: Can I still ride my bike if the frame is cracked? A: It’s not recommended to ride a bike with a cracked frame as it can lead to serious accidents. Riding on a damaged frame can cause the crack to worsen and eventually break while you’re riding, which could result in an injury. Q2: How long does a bike frame typically last? A: The lifespan of a bike frame depends on several factors such as usage, maintenance, and quality. Generally, well-maintained frames made from high-quality materials like carbon fiber or titanium can last for many years. Q3: Can a cracked bike frame be repaired? A: In some cases, yes. However, repairing cracks in your bike’s frame will depend on the severity and location of the damage. Some minor cracks can be repaired by welding or applying epoxy resin while others may require more extensive repairs. Q4: How much does it cost to repair a cracked bike frame? A: The cost of repairing a broken or cracked bike frame varies depending on the extent of the damage and type of repair needed. On average, repairs range between $100-$500 but could potentially exceed that amount for more severe damages. Q5: How can I prevent my bike frame from cracking? A: Regular maintenance such as checking bolts and screws’ tightness helps prevent unnecessary stress on your bicycle’s parts—keeping tire pressure at optimal levels also makes sure that unwanted forces are not exerted upon different parts leading them towards wear down & tear quickly. Q6 :Is it worth repairing an old bike-frame with crack? It ultimately depends on how much you value your current bicycle and what kind of damages have occurred in its structure over time. If significant damage has been done – then purchasing another model might make sense due to potential long-term consequences associated with continued use without fixing any existing issues first

A cracked bike frame is not only dangerous but can also lead to costly repairs or even replacement. It’s essential to regularly inspect your bike frame for any signs of cracking, and if you do spot a crack, take immediate action. Don’t risk your safety by riding on a damaged bike. Furthermore, always have an expert opinion when assessing any potential damage and never attempt DIY repairs on cracks as they may worsen the situation.

Also Read: 29 Inch Bike Frame For What Height? Complete Guide

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Trek Frame warranty Issues

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So I recently broke my 2016 fuel ex 9 frame. Cracked right at the seat tube top tube junction. I brought it into the shop and they warrantied it no problem. My new frame came in and I said I would build it myself, move the parts etc. The bike shop gave me the line that building the frame would void my warranty on the new frame. So i emailed a contact that I had at Trek HQ and he talked to the warranty department and they said * If there is a clear manufacturing defect that causes a failure, it should be covered. * If there is an assembly error, compatibility error, etc. that causes or contributes to a failure, your warranty may be void. So this makes it seem that I could in fact build my frame. I would of let the shop do it but they were trying to charge 250 dollars to build the bike and i built about 10 of the 2017 fuel models before when I was working as an intern at trek. anyways, I decided to let the bike shop build the bike for convenience, and figured the 250 would cover their time for the warranty process. They seemed to not have a solid price So before the shop built the bike I said to call me with a more refined price, they did not. I called them after two days of waiting after the frame and all parts where there and they said the bike was ready. This was today. I go in to pick up the bike and they ring me up for 398 dollars. 150 more than they quoted. They tacked on 50 each for bleeding the rear brake and reverb (internal routing) and 42 for a bottom bracket which i thought was included in the 250 because i mentioned i wanted a new one and he said 250 to build it. I just went ahead and payed them, just figured whatever its a new frame it will be perfect build Defects ive found with the build so far: Derailuer not properly indexing ( Had to readjust for my ride tonight) Improper front brake routing, routed on the outside Stem bar clamp upside down , bontrager b upside down used a stem spacer thats a smaller od than the top cap, looks crappy, My bike 3 spacers that would work and the new frame came with spacers missing part of the cable routing system, downtube tie down piece So i may be hypercritical but i feel like the gouged me on the price because they had me locked in with their fake "wavier". The receipt shows "pro bike build" and i feel like that would require a lot more attention to detail. The also didn't ask me to bleed the brakes and reverb which was 100 buck more and if they did i would of just done it myself because i have all the tools and fluid. On another note, they kept my old top cap, made it myself on the lathe. So im gonna go back in point out all of the issues and mention the things that im upset about. Should i ask for a refund on the bleeding since they didnt ask? should i ask for a discount on the build since it was kinda half-assed for a "Pro Level Build" are they in the wrong? any other opinions on this? Thanks, Sam  

Sounds like an issue with the shop, not Trek at least. If there are things that you had not expected, I would bring it to their attention. As an HVAC contractor, I cannot just give a price estimate, then make it whatever I want ABOVE an estimate without verifying the homeowner WANTS me to do something. I had a crack in my Farley frame in late 2015. The shop asked that I pay a $100 disassembly/reassembly fee. I did not mind that.  

dethwshbkr said: sounds like an issue with the shop, not trek at least. Click to expand...

Bummer. My experiences with Trek warranty was close to 30 years ago for my road bike. The fork cracked and had a clean break at a dropout while JRA. Brought it to a dealer (not the place I bought it from), and it was warrantied without change in a somewhat timely manner. When I went to pick it up, the new fork was installed and there was no charge. The guys just smiled and said something like, "Here you go, have fun!" Later, the left rear dropout broke with a clean break between the dropout and the chainstay while JRA. This time, I brought it to another dealer near where I was going to university, also not the selling dealer. Either the shop or Trek dragged their feet on that one. I got a new a new frame without argument, but it took 3-4 months, by which time I had gone home over the summer and come back, and had switched sports to running. I had stripped the bike before leaving it, except for the headset and bottom bracket because I didn't have the tools. The replacement came with headset, and the shop threw on a bottom bracket from their spares bin when I pointed that out. I built that back up myself. I don't know, so I'm speculating, but you'd think that for a legitimate warranty claim, Trek would be providing the dealer with some money to do the parts swap. My Toyota with over 150K miles at the time and otherwise out of warranty had an issue that was covered by an enhanced warranty for a known issue. I made an appointment with a random Toyota dealer, and they were glad to take care of the issue with no charge because of the reimbursement from Toyota. I know, different industry, but shouldn't the same principle apply? I'd be curious to hear if shops get compensation from manufacturers for warranty claims.  

You have a level of expertise that probably surpasses the guys at the shop for that bike. You. should have gone in and assisted with the build during an off time. Both parties would come out ahead and the charges would likely be lower. The build requires those bleeds. 250 would have included that.  

Trek should cover the reassembly build cost imho. It's no fault of yours that their frame cracked, so why would you have to pay for it? This continues to be a major flaw in the bicycle industry. I would have built it myself before I paid a penny for a warranty issue.  

Xlr8n said: I would have built it myself before I paid a penny for a warranty issue. Click to expand...

• I'd have the shop press the headset in
• I'd have the shop face & chase the BB (assuming it's threaded)
• If I know a shop employee personally and (s)he offers to do the work personally, I'd buy him/her some good microbrew and help them drink it while they/we work on my bike after hours. Not on the clock.

I wouldn't have paid for the bleeds. You were quoted $250 to move everything over and the internal routing requiring a bleed is part of that and covered under the $250. That's dishonest shop.  

I would not pay more than $250'. Even if the bleed was required they should have included it in the estimate. If you don't get any satisfaction from the shop call Trek customer se vice and tell them what happened.  

I would have built it myself before I paid a penny for a warranty issue. Click to expand...

I agreed and I told the trek warranty rep that. Trek sent the frame fast and it was better than what I had. So I am happy on the trek end not the shop end  

Good News! The service manager at the shop saw the miscommunication that happened and realized that i had been pretty poorly treated and decided to refund me 200 bucks. I brought in a quote from another shop yesterday that included bleeding of the brake and reverb for 150 and they decided to honor that. I didn't think they would really sway but they did. Im pretty sure trek had some leverage on the situation.  

Good to hear it worked out. I'm surprised you were able to get a 2016 frame though. Last I heard they didn't have any.  

No I got a 2018 frame  

Mine looked exactly like that. I also had some paint chipping going on too. I did as well. Especially the seatstay rubbing on the rear brake hose. New frame has the issue as well. I think the frame was designed with brakes that have hose that exit on the drive side of the caliper vs non drive side like the xt brakes.  

Few pics Thanks for the reply. Cable rub shots.  

Attachments

I'm seeing a lot of there threads were shops are gouging customers for swapping parts over on warrantied frames. Its a pretty crappy, predatory move. If a customer spends good money a bike and it breaks that customer shouldn't have to pay a dime to get their bike going again.  

I had a similar issue with my warrantee. The shop promised a nice build up for 200. I went for it as a good will gesture for dealing with the warrantee process. When I got the bike back they reinstalled the headset without greasing the bearings and zip tied the cables to the frame rather than the internal routing. Clearly they will not see any more business from me. Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk  

Interesting. My experience was the opposite. 8 month old Farley 9.6. I had upgrade most components and had good relationship with LBS. took bike to beach house, ended up with cracked stay with all recent rides being sand. Took to shop for post-beach B.B. maintenance (they found crack). Trek initially refused to warranty. I was considering new non-Trek frame and asked LBs to try one more time with Trek. LBS told me they spent 1.5 hour on phone and Trek eventually relented. From colors, looks like I got leftover ‘17 9.8 frame (fine). LBS swapped parts and told me b/c it was warranty, no cost to me (other than new B.B., which I needed). I brought shop 2 cases of beer. Won’t use another shop. Won’t buy another Trek (was looking at FEX 9.9, got SB100).  

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Trek frame cracked

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Trek Frame Paint Crack opinion wanted

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I have a Trek Equinox 11 TT frame that I wanted to give a facelift. The frame painter noticed this crack around the downtube lug. I am looking for opinions from the picture below before I start the dialogue with Trek. I have seen other posts were paint cracks were "normal" for carbon bikes, but the frame painter thought this could be more structural. It goes all the way around. Thanks for the opinions..  

Any claim against this warranty must be made through an authorized dealer or distributor. Proof of purchase is required. A bicycle must be registered with Trek Bicycle Corporation before a warranty claim may be processed. ...For 2010 and older model bicycles, please consult your owner’s manual or contact Trek or your Trek dealer for the applicable warranty information. Click to expand...

Thanks for the opinion. It's at the LBS where I bought it now but the owner is out this week so I wanted to get some learned opinions before the process began. I was a bit paranoid after googling the subject and finding a lot of issues with paint cracking and it seems a generally accepted deal with carbon frames.  

I'm no expert on such matters, but I agree with Mel. I've seen paint/ clearcoat cracks that ran fairly straight, so this 'line' being somewhat jagged, I'd lean towards structural.  

Are you kidding. It is a crack that can cost you a lot. God forbid an injury or a big accident. Go to trek and they should check it. They should be cautious as it is your life and their reputation. .  

I wouldn't ride that.  

The frame painter noticed this crack around the downtube lug. Click to expand...

"But usually" .... that is the reason for being cautions, no. You said it yourself.... sheesh....Frames break and riders sometimes hit the tarmac....typical of carbon. Shouldn't it be the other way around. Riders sometimes hit the tarmac and frames break. I rember poor George riding with his handle bars in his hand, but they weren't attached to the bike. Right before an oh sh#t and big crash. There's no reason for this.IMHO  

evs said: Frames break and riders sometimes hit the tarmac....typical of carbon. Shouldn't it be the other way around. Click to expand...

Friend had a similar crack on the DT of a Trek road frame and Trek replaced it under warranty. Suggest you let the dealer follow through for you with Trek.  

Looks like just a crack in the paint to me. If it were the carbon I think it would be more in alignment with the fiber orientation. Anyone just looking at pictures though would be completely talking out of there A$$es to give you a structural assessment. Did you try tapping around the crack to listen for the thud associated with busted carbon? FWIW to me it looks like a paint issue but it's not my face on the pavement. Talking to Trek about it would be the right thing to do at least for peace of mind.  

Nope. That's broken. That's one of the spots where Madones are failing. New bike for you...  

Bringing up a point that needs to be made. Don't ever custom paint a Trek carbon frame...  

I have a 1998 Trek Y Foil that has had a crack like that since 2000. Mine is where the bottom bracket lug is. It is VERY common on that particular frame. I have thousands of miles on the bike. The bottom line is that you should do what makes you comfortable.  

backinthesaddle said: Nope. That's broken. That's one of the spots where Madones are failing. New bike for you... Click to expand...

Thanks for the replies Thanks for all the replies. I did not see the crack/mark/paint crack or whatever it is so I did not get to try the quarter tapping test. I appreciate all the opinions. We will see what the dealer and the Trek rep has to say next week and I will keep the interested posted. I guess I am torn between really having gotten a lot of miles on the bike and being happy with it and between really thinking a bike that sold for over a couple of (maybe three?) grand really shouldn't have a paint crack, if that is all it is. If it's more than obviously I hope they replace the frame, a lifetime warranty has to be worth something. It's not like 2006 was the first year for that frame, you would think there would be a way to formulate the paint so it doesn't crack at joints. Then again, it could be an underlying glue failure or crack. I suppose I will find out soon enough. Keep the opinions coming.....thanks much...  

rward325 said: This is a very broad statement that has no basis to it. Furthermore the OP does not have a Madone, it is an Equinox TT bike that comes out of a completely different mold than the Madone. Besides, other than the 2 Madones that have shown up on this board in recent weeks what other Madones have you seen or heard of cracking? I would say that the sample here out of the total number of Madones sold is really a small percentage. Click to expand...

rward325 said: This is a very broad statement that has no basis to it. Furthermore the OP does not have a Madone, it is an Equinox TT bike that comes out of a completely different mold than the Madone. Besides, other than the 2 Madones that have shown up on this board in recent weeks what other Madones have you seen or heard of cracking? I would say that the sample here out of the total number of Madones sold is really a small percentage . Click to expand...

Ohm said: I wouldn't ride that. Click to expand...

backinthesaddle said: EVERY Madone that was bought from the Trek dealer here has been replaced under warranty. Click to expand...

If the frame is not in warranty no more just sand the darn paint, the lbs will do that also. Besides, treks are famous for crappy paint jobs that crack big time.  

tbb001 said: If that were the case, you'd think the warranty dept would be a lot busier here. Click to expand...

Outcome I am the original poster, Trek denied the warranty, stating it was a paint crack and non-structural. The dealer is now trying to see if there are other options. I never had the feeling it was unsafe riding it, but now that I see the "paint crack", I have less confidence in the frame altogether. I never cared for the seapost clamp design, the chainstays were too close (rubbed with 23 mm tire if the wheel was even slightly out of true or not centered perfectly) and the rear shift cable came out too close to the axel, making some issues with using a trainer, if one was not careful. Thanks for the replies. I do plan in putting the parts on something, but there are a few too many options.  

One last post for this, Trek came through for me in the end and offered a real fair discount on a new bike. Given the age and mileage of my bike I am satisfied. I have a 7 series Speed Concept ordered. Not sure what is posted about that bike but I saw one in a shop and really liked the attention to detail. A lot of things I didn't care for in the Team Time trial config were addressed with the TTX but this one is especially impressive. Not sure I buy the 10 min saving over an ironman distance though, and I hope they have any paint issues sorted out....thanks again for the responses.  

This is a common problem on Treks because of the way they bond all of their joints together. An excess of material at the joint makes it stiffer than the surrounding area and can lead to stress cracking. It's not so much a paint problem as it is a structural design discrepancy. Better safe than sorry! Good luck... I hope you can get a safe replacement frame!  

ultraman6970 said: If the frame is not in warranty no more just sand the darn paint, the lbs will do that also. Besides, treks are famous for crappy paint jobs that crack big time. Click to expand...

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BMC's Fourstroke LT is XC and Trail in One Bike

This 120mm travel mountain bike offers nearly faultless performance on the trail but at a premium price.

Models and Prices

Ride impressions, notes from the field.

Features and Details

BMC’s Fourstroke line breaks into three platforms—The Fourstroke 01, the Fourstroke, and the Fourstroke LT (the subject of this review).

The XC-race-oriented Fourstroke 01 and Fourstroke are essentially the same frame with 100mm travel front and rear. The distinguishing feature is the 01’s integrated Autodrop dropper post. While most droppers require the rider’s body weight in the saddle to, er, drop, the Autodrop sucks down without body weight. The Fourstroke, meanwhile, uses a traditional dropper.

The Fourstroke LT employs a very similar frame to the Fourstroke but features 120mm of rear travel paired with a 120mm fork. Accompanying the travel increase are more trail-oriented build kits: wider and knobbier tires, four-piston brakes instead of two-piston, larger rotors, shorter stems, longer travel droppers, and no lockout remote.

LT models also feature more subdued colors and graphics than the more race-oriented Fourstrokes.

No matter the travel, all Fourstroke and Fourstroke LT frames employ a dual-link suspension system.

Many of the most popular lightweight XC race and XC adjacent bikes rely on a single pivot system. Among them: Specialized Epic 8 (and Epic Evo ), Yeti ASR , Trek Top Fuel , Transition Spur, Allied BC40 , Santa Cruz Blur (and Blur TR), Cannondale Scalpel, Canyon Lux (and Lux Trail ), Pinarello Dogma XC, Evil Following , and Scott Spark RC .

The Fourstroke, however, joins a more select group of short travel offerings with dual-link suspension. The more-pivots club also includes the Pivot Mach 4 SL , Ibis Exie, Revel Ranger, Rocky Mountain Element , Norco Revolver, and Spot Ryve.

In theory, a dual-link system offers greater opportunity for engineers to fine-tune the suspension’s anti-squat, anti-rise, and leverage ratio, which (again, in theory) provides more refined suspension performance. A single pivot system, meanwhile, is lighter and (usually) has fewer pivots and hardware to maintain.

Years ago, I used to say a dual-link suspension system always outperforms a single pivot on the trail. However, advancements in knowledge and technology have dramatically elevated the performance of single-pivot bikes.

While I still find that a well-executed short-travel dual-link bike offers slightly more refinement than the best short-travel single pivot system, the differences are minor. They are so minor that if I were shopping for an XC bike, I wouldn’t bother pondering the merits of dual-link versus single pivot and instead concentrate on things like price, weight, and even water bottle mounting.

Other than the suspension, the Fourstroke LT is rather straightforward. You’ll find internal hose and housing routing—but thankfully not through the headset bearings—a UDH derailleur hanger and a hidden steering stop built into the headset.

The downtube features multiple mount points, allowing multiple bottle mount locations. Two bottles can be mounted in series on the downtube or one bottle and a cargo plate.

BMC sticks with a press-fit bottom bracket even as more brands return to a threaded system. Over at Scor’s website (Scor is a division of BMC), it states, “From an engineering point of view, press-fit is the best solution for a carbon frame, allowing us to [make] a stiffer, stronger frame. Our engineers have a lot of experience working with the standard, and we have construction tolerances under very tight control, so you don’t need to worry about wobbly cranks or creaking bottom brackets.”

And to BMC’s credit, I rode this bike for many months and the BB remained silent.

The Fourstroke LT’s geometry may seem familiar: It is extremely similar to the new Specialized Epic 8 and Yeti ASR . Like the Fourstroke LT, those are both 120mm (ish) travel bikes with 66.5 (ish) degree head angles.

Numbers aren’t identical, however. The BMC’s 76.7-degree seat angle is about a degree steeper. It also has slightly shorter chainstays and a little longer reach.

But while the Yeti and Specialized are positioned as XC race bikes, the Fourstoke LT isn’t BMC’s premier XC race whip. That title goes to the shorter-travel Fourstroke.

However, the current Fourstroke line was launched in October 2022, well before the new Specialized in Yeti.

Hmm, maybe the Swiss were onto something.

I’m curious what BMC will do when they inevitably refresh the Fourstroke line. If they follow current trends, something like the current LT might morph into the brand’s XC race bike.

Regardless, Even coming up on two years post-launch, the Fourstroke LT offers similar geometry to the most progressive XC race bikes, which is also pretty useful for everyday trail riding.

BMC offers the 2024 Fourstroke LT in three builds priced at $11,999 (LTD), $5,999 (One—the model I tested), and $4,499 (Two).

If you want to save some cash, the 2023 models (the same frame as the 2024 models, but with different paint and parts) are on sale for $2,500 to $1,000 off at BMC's US site.

Bikes from BMC and its sub-brand Scor—as well as Scott, BMC’s Swiss compatriot—are priced like (and sometimes more than) boutique brands than a larger company like Specialized, Trek, or Cannondale. I don’t know if that’s a Swiss currency conversion thing or simply that the Swiss are proud of their products and think they can charge more.

The Fourstroke LT One I tested has the same advertised retail price—and a very similar—build as a Revel Ranger GX Eagle . A Yeti ASR C2 with an almost identical build to the BMC is $400 cheaper. Meanwhile, the new 120mm Cannondale Scalpel 3 has an arguably nicer build than the BMC and is $500 less than the Fourstroke LT One.

A Canyon Lux Trail CF 9 has almost the same advertised price ($6,199) but features SRAM GX Eagle Transmission electronic shifting, a RockShox Reverb AXS wireless dropper post, and DT wheels with carbon rims. Plus, the Canyon is currently on sale for $5,599 .

This BMC Fourstroke LT is a great riding bike with good parts, but it’s not so special or unique that it justifies the premium pricing it commands.

Fourstroke LT LTD

Bmc fourstroke lt ltd.

Fox Factory 34 Step Cast fork and Factory Float shock, SRAM X0 Eagle Transmission, X0 cranks, SRAM G2 Ultimate brakes, DT Swiss XRC 1501 wheels, RockShox Reverb AXS dropper post, Maxxis Rekon EXO 2.4” WT tires.

Fourstroke LT ONE

Bmc fourstroke lt one.

RockShox SID Select+ 3-position fork and SidLuxe Select+ shock, SRAM GX Eagle (mechanical) drivetrain, SRAM G2 RS brakes, DT Swiss M 1900 wheels, BikeYoke Divine dropper, Maxxis Rekon EXO 2.4” WT tires.

Fourstroke LT TWO

Bmc fourstroke lt two.

RockShox SID Select 3-position fork and SidLuxe Select+ shock, Shimano Deore drivetrain, Shimano 520 disc brakes, Alex MD30 rims, X-Fusion Manic dropper, Maxxis Rekon EXO 2.4” WT tires.

The Fourstroke LT offered no surprises on the trails. It is what I expect from a modern XC race (or race-adjacent) mountain bike. It is crisp and quick, with slinky handling and the ability to comfortably reach outside the boundaries of typical XC race situations.

Pedaling performance is efficient, although I did find a bit more bob and softness off the top than I expected from a dual-link short-travel bike (I set the shock with about 28 percent sag). However, the LT offered very good rear wheel traction and sensitivity, fluttering over small bumps with more suppleness than I typically experience from bikes equipped with the somewhat firm riding RockShox SID shock.

Overall, this is a compromise I’m happy with, as it’s easy enough to make the suspension feel crisper by adding a bit more air pressure to the shock or flipping the compression lever to pedal mode.

The performance of the rear suspension in other situations—medium to bigger hits and braking—was also very good, and the LT carried speed well. But it is quite progressive, and I found it difficult to realize full travel from the suspension. In fairness to BMC, almost every bike I’ve ridden with the SID shock has this trait.

I found the frame stiffness well-balanced; it’s a bit more stout than the typical race-style bike. Even so, the frame helps damp shock and vibrations—always helpful with a shorter-travel platform—and enough give to help the wheels track predictably in rough corners.

No surprise that climbing is one of the Fourstroke LT’s stronger suits. Even with this model’s frill-free build, bike weight still comes in under 27 pounds. And the suspension offers decent performance as well, particularly on rougher climbs.

The 76.7-degree seat angle is rather steep for this type of bike, which may frustrate riders—particularly XC racers and those who spend a lot of time on the road bike—who like to sit further behind the cranks than new-school mountain bike seat angles allow. I’m one of those, so I spent my time with the saddle slammed back as far as the rails would allow.

But if you love the new school forward position, the BMC offers one of the steepest seat angles I’ve found in a short travel bike—even steeper than a Transition Spur .

The Fourstroke LTs’ handling is, as I said earlier, slinky. Certainly, it steers quickly and changes direction with little effort. But it isn’t nervy and I never felt like I was chasing it when riding steeper and looser sections of trail. My overall impression was it was exactly as quick handling as it should be for this style of bike, but stable enough to manage a wide variety of trails.

Overall, BMC’s Fourstroke LT is a bit of a sleeper. It’s probably not the first bike you’d think of when considering a progressive XC bike, but its performance is right there with the very best I’ve ridden in this category. It’s fast, fun, and rewarding to ride across a wider range of terrain than you might expect. BMC’s pricing is a little steep, but if the brand can find a way to make this bike a bit more price-competitive, I think the Fourstroke LT will be a top contender.

Random observations and reports from my time testing the bike.

• Like the Scor (BMC’s sub-brand) I recently reviewed , this bike has a Bike Yoke Divine seatpost with overly long saddle clamp bolts. After one ride, I saw a mark on the saddle base where it bottomed on the bolts. I’ve had saddle bases eventually crack from similar contact, so I swapped to a taller profile saddle for the rest of the testing.

• I was going to change out the saddle anyway because the stock Fizik Antares did not agree with my body: too little support in some areas, way too much in others. Saddles are very personal of course but the Antares is an old design, very flat, and with abrupt corners.

• From the very start, there was a bit of play in the rear shock eyelet that I could not eliminate. This resulted in an occasional bit of knocking I could feel through the frame.

• The LT’s downtube has mount points that allow numerous water bottle positions, cargo mounting, and even two bottles. If you want to run two bottles, you’ll need cages with a decent range of height adjustment (I used Wolf Tooth’s Morse Cages ), and you’ll need to spend a bit of time playing Tetris to get everything to fit without interference.

• I know that press-fit bottom brackets are practically taboo today but over the years, I’ve had noises from every sort of BB system. I’ve ridden other bikes with threaded and press-fit systems for a long time without issues. I rode this BMC for the better part of a year and had zero noise from the PF92 BB.

• The build on my $6,000 Fourstroke LT One test bike isn’t flashy but is reliable and high-performance. With no remotes or electronics, it’s blissfully simple, too.

• The Fourstroke LT features a rotation stop built into the head tube to prevent the bars from spinning around and crashing into the downtube (which can break a frame). BMC’s execution is one of the best I’ve experienced. It’s hidden from view, didn’t make any noise or come loose, and offers enough steering lock that I could get through the tightest switchbacks without issue.

A gear editor for his entire career, Matt’s journey to becoming a leading cycling tech journalist started in 1995, and he’s been at it ever since; likely riding more cycling equipment than anyone on the planet along the way. Previous to his time with Bicycling , Matt worked in bike shops as a service manager, mechanic, and sales person. Based in Durango, Colorado, he enjoys riding and testing any and all kinds of bikes, so you’re just as likely to see him on a road bike dressed in Lycra at a Tuesday night worlds ride as you are to find him dressed in a full face helmet and pads riding a bike park on an enduro bike. He doesn’t race often, but he’s game for anything; having entered road races, criteriums, trials competitions, dual slalom, downhill races, enduros, stage races, short track, time trials, and gran fondos. Next up on his to-do list: a multi day bikepacking trip, and an e-bike race. 

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