parfum voyage hermes

Voyage d’Hermès Parfum Fragrance Review: A Spicy Unisex Cardamom Cologne For Men & Women

Being absolutely infatuated by Terre d’Hermès , I was keen to see what else the historical French house had to offer. When I discovered that Voyage d’Hermès was a unisex fragrance that I could share with my wife, I was excited to give it a try.

After having used Voyage d’Hermès for a number of months, it was time to give it a full review using the  Fragrance Formula  to see how it fares.

In this review, you will discover Voyage d’Hermès where we explore the following subjects:

• Fragrance Overview
• Blend & Fragrance Strength
• Tested 3rd Party Feedback
• When To Wear The Cologne
• Presentation & Value

You can use the links above to jump ahead or just scroll down to read it all!

• Fragrance: Voyage d’Hermès
• Concentration: Parfum
• Introduction: 2012
• Olfactive Fragrance Family: Woody Floral Musk
• Price On Amazon: $80 for 100 ml [ Buy Now ]
• Price On FragranceX:  From $77 [ Buy Now ]

Following the success of the 2010 eau de toilette of the same name, Hermès released the parfum edition in 2012. Also created by the in-house nose, Jean-Claude Ellena, the parfum promises an enriched experience with a composition of citrusy aromas, spicy blends as well as herbaceous green notes and precious wood.

Download the Voyage d’Hermès Fragrance Formula as a PDF.

Learn More About The Bespoke Unit Fragrance Formula (BUFF)

Voyage d’Hermès Composition

With a rich floral heart over a woody and musk base, Voyage d’Hermès is a proud member of the Woody Floral Musk olfactive sub-family.

Heart Notes

As the citrus and pepper notes fade, we’re revealed a floral bouquet featured rose, juniper and sweet jasmine. The juniper adds an almost herbaceous note reminiscent of cedar yet the cardamom continues to persist throughout the heart.

Voyage’s Life-Cycle, Wake & Strength

Although deep and heady, Voyage is far from overpowering. The notes cycle through their dry-down with a few transitional notes extending others along the way. As mentioned above, the cardamom is really what makes this fragrance sing and is omnipresent throughout its lifespan.

Although the projection and sillage are both quite tight and stay relatively close to the skin, the longevity is impressive. Although you may want to re-apply after a couple of hours, the fragrance’s performance keeps on giving well after its application.

What Do People Think Of Voyage d’Hermès?

Others also enjoyed the bouquet of spices and woody notes but since the cardamom is firmly fixed in the limelight, it’s the one that receives all the glory. Of course, if you don’t let the smell of cardamom, this isn’t a fragrance that you’ll enjoy!

Being a very deep and sensual fragrance, it was better received by more mature people from their thirties and above. However, it’s a very contemporary if classy blend. Conversely, it came across as a little too prominent for younger people. Nevertheless, it’s a fragrance that both men and women find attractive and this universality is probably the secret to its success.

When To Wear Voyage d’Hermès

Both the time of day and season play large roles in when to successfully wear this fragrance. Firstly, its cardamom and spices aren’t something that you’d wear for winter despite being deep and sensual. In fact, it fares far better during the late spring and summer.

However, it’s probably too heavy and musky for a summer’s day. Instead, it’s the perfect companion for balmy summer nights. Thanks to its paradoxical fresh and warm notes, it complements the heat and offers something that is both unique an alluring.

As for the age range, it’s perfectly wearable for anyone in their late twenties but is probably more suitable for someone who is established. Therefore, it’s a great fragrance for those in their thirties, forties or above.

In terms of occasion, it can be quite versatile. As much as it’s a respectable office fragrance that isn’t overpowering for small workplaces, it’s best reserved for the nighttime. Therefore, whether you’re just going out, staying casual or enjoying your evening, it’s a wonderful companion. We’d even suggest it as a unique alternative for dating!

Finally, Voyage d’Hermès is a strange beast when it comes to the masculine. On paper, its notes are rather masculine and sound like something best worn by men. However, it’s very much a unisex fragrance that can be bought by anyone or even shared by a couple.

Presentation and Value For Money

Nevertheless, it’s visually appealing and looks great when positioned at an angle on your shelf. The parfum distinguishes itself from the eau de toilette by being made from black glass rather than white, which looks almost midnight blue under the light.

Furthermore, there’s no bottle cap and the atomiser can be unscrewed for refilling. Once you’ve run out, there’s no need to buy another bottle but a plain refill, which is slightly cheaper. Speaking of the atomiser, it performs well and provides a burst of thick mist. It’s solid and well-made so doesn’t squirt out like a water gun.

Meanwhile, the packaging is very attractive too. The cardboard features a herringbone texture on the front, top and back with beige sides. An embossed stripe wraps around the cardboard to look like a ribbon whilst “Voyage d’Hermès” is elegantly written in silver text with underscores.

As for the value for money, know that Voyage d’Hermès is a particularly expensive and premium fragrance. Retailing well above $100 for 3.4 Oz (100 ml), it’s quite the investment. However, being an original and well-performing fragrance, it’s worth taking the plunge.

However, you can pick up it for less on Amazon where it’s sold for only $80 . Meanwhile, you can pick it up for $77 through FragranceX !

Closing Thoughts

A very contemporary yet timeless fragrance, Voyage d’Hermès is a unique and tantalising experience. Its spicy and woody themes beautifully showcase the vivid cardamom note, which is unforgettable.

If you’re looking for something that performs well to wear on those summer nights, this is an excellent pick. Furthermore, it’s one that you can share with your partner if she or her has taken a liking to it too!

"A potential contemporary classic. Unique and breathtaking fragrance, its spicy and woody accords are intoxicating with a hearty cardamom theme."

About the Author: Charles-Philippe

18 Comments

I love the sound of this frag. How would you rate it for dating and night life?

It depends what you mean by “night life”. I think it’s too subtle for night clubs and would quickly become drowned out by other smells. However, it’s a great choice for dating and offers a unique alternative scent for romantic occasions.

All the best,

Hello Carlos, Well, don’t know where to start with, but, went to the nearby mall at my home city (Mumbai, India) looking for something similar on the lines of Davidoff’s CoolWater (DCW) as this one has been my absolute favorite for office wear. I am no enthusiast in terms of EDTs and/or EDPs but started my journey in the world of one’s ownself (care) when 4 years back I was gifted a CalvinKlein CK In2U EDT by one of my friend as a birthday gift and from there on, this journey of self admiration started to say the least (pun intended). CK in2U opened the floodgates towards Davidoff’s CoolWater (as Both of them are Fresh/Aqua based EDTs and after more than a couple of years of trying CK in2U, Davidoff’s CoolWater, Nautica’s Blue (all Fresh/Aqua based) I went on the same tram lines to search for something similar (after reading what similar EDT notes would criss-cross with DCW), Had Bvlgari’s Aqva, Atlantiqve and Marine in mind and then my senses were blown away by a somewhat pricer option that the salesman suggested me to give a try and it was this gem: (not the Parfum version) but the EDT Voyage De’Hermes and it sure did take me on a Voyage De’Cardamom the moment that mist spray touched me. I told him, give me ¾th of an hour and if this EDT matures, beyond Cardamom, you will surely have a new customer (me). And yes, it did marure and I am a proud owner of this,today… 6th March,2021.

That’s a fantastic story, thanks for sharing it!

I love cardamom and oud so this sounds perfect for me! Funny, though, the notes sound more like a winter fragrance rather than something for the summer…

Hi Alex, Yes, the agarwood base features a light oud note but as it’s not particularly heavy, it’s quite refreshing. Although this is great for a winter’s day, it’s even better for a summer’s night! I was surprised too but I’ve owned it since Christmas and I’ve been impressed by its performance in the evening heat. Best, CP

This sounds like a great fragrance to share with the missus!

It is and I keep a bottle on her dresser that we both use!

Sure ,they have something secret in formula on this fragrance. Very nice fragrance but also expensive.

Most perfumers are very secretive about their actual formulae so yes, that’s very true. It’s true that it’s also somewhat pricey but it’s such a great fragrance that I’d argue that it’s worth it!

Hi Charles Philippe. How are you? I like the Edt version more. What can you say about the edt. Which one do you like the most?

Hi Shakhruh, I’m well, thanks. I hope that you are, too.

That’s interesting! I have a preference for the Parfum. I haven’t compared the two in a while but I recall the EDT being much lighter.

Thank you so much for your feedback.If you have money it’s good to have both.Edp is good in the evening, Edt is good in the daytime. Try Edt again, definitely in a smaller view. Can you tell me? have both been reformed over the years?

I’ll bear that in mind and give them both another try! I’m afraid that I don’t know whether it’s been reformulated or not, though.

Never mind. Thank you for that, my friend????????

Sorry that I couldn’t be of more help!

Hi Charles Philippe.Sorry to bother you again.I will never buy perfume from Amazon.com anymore.I saw and bought Voyage Edt at a much cheaper price from amazon.I was looking forward to my favorite perfume.He came I opened it and the smell was completely different. It doesn’t look like the original at all and doesn’t last long. I’ve also read negative reviews of other perfumes. They’ve also written fake ones. Even Voyage D’hermes Parfum. My advice to you is to buy a real original Voyage D’hermes Parfum from Hermes.com, Hermes stores or Sephora. Believe me, you will feel the real difference. Voyage perfume on Hermes.com is $ 155, on Hermes.fr 122 €

Oh, that’s terrible! We quite like FragranceX, which we’ve used many times and delivers the real thing. However, we also add Amazon links as you expect it to be trustworthy! Sorry to hear that you received an inauthentic Hermes!

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Voyage d'Hermès Hermès 2010 Eau de Toilette

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Fragrance pyramid.

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HERMÈS Voyage d'Hermès Pure Perfume Fragrance Collection

A lively, giving fragrance in which the freshness of juniper berries blends with the milky warmth of sandalwood and the sensuality of amber. "An invitation to discover, meet and share." - Jean-Claude Ellena. A novel that feeds on the imagination, Voyage d'Hermès expresses the long-standing and unusual relationship between the house and travel. An interplay of paradoxes, complements and unexpected alliances supports the premise of woody notes that are fresh yet musky, familiar yet surprising, hovering between impulsive and comforting, equally at ease with men as with women. Hermès designer Philippe Mouquet created a travel object bottle for Voyage d'Hermès, designed for journeys and symbolic of movement.

• Juniper Berry, Sandalwood

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Voyage d'Hermès Pure Perfume, Parfum Refillable Spray, 1.18 oz.

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Voyage d'Hermes - EdT or Parfum, if I can only get one?

• Thread starter manatee
• Start date May 20, 2021

Well-known member

• May 20, 2021

I just recently dug out my old sample of Voyage d'Hermes EdT and gave it a whirl on my skin for the first time in a few years. I remembered always liking it, but this time something just clicked perfectly and I'm now borderline obsessed with this one. It's so freaking incredible. My problem is that I live in a country where Hermes is not available in stores, so my only option is ordering online. Since I've been reading everything I can get my hands on about Voyage (the way I always do when a fragrance snatches my fancy this hard), I've seen mention of the Parfum pop up constantly. It sounds very intriguing, but I only have the budget for one of the two. The thing is I've never smelled the Parfum and I have no quick or easy way to obtain a sample of it, not before my obsessive need to own Voyage will make me pull the trigger despite myself (to anyone outside this community this would sound like borderline crazy talk, but I know you guys know what I'm talking about). So my question basically is: if I love -- not like, but just flat-out adore -- the EdT, is the Parfum a safe blind buy for me? If I could get only one, would I be happier with the Parfum down the road, perhaps due to performance aspects or something similar, or does the Parfum sacrifice a significant part of what makes the EdT unique? I realize this is a question that's impossible to answer conclusively, so I'll take all replies with the requisite grains of salt. I do think the discussion would help me a great deal with coming to some conclusion, though. Would love to hear your thoughts.  

I chose the parfum and like it a lot. It's very similar to the edt, maybe a little less bright. If you like the edt you would most likely like the parfum, too.  

I think the parfum is overall better smelling and performing, although I like both versions.  

I'd go with the parfum.  

Ive read that the line has similarities to Angelique sous la Plouis. Do you guys notice any angelica note at all?  

Ken_Russell

Another recommendation in favor of the Parfum - both regarding the actual scent and its performance  

FCM415 said: Ive read that the line has similarities to Angelique sous la Plouis. Do you guys notice any angelica note at all? Click to expand...

Andy the frenchy

Not a fan of either, but the least boring to my nose is the parfum.  

FCM415 said: Help. Angelique sous la plouis is too fleeting. Does Voyage have Angelica? Click to expand...

SORRY IGNORE POST I MISREAD... Thought it was Terre d'hermes edt vs parfum :lipsrsealed: Can't comment on voyage, from what i remembered both were great but had some preference for the parfum  

For what it's worth, I don't find the two versions hugely dissimilar - the parfum has a bit more presence and lasting power (on me, anyway), and I find the grapefruit note sharper and juicier, but the overall scent profiles are similar enough that I'd be happy with either one. But if you can only afford one, and you already know you love the EdT, I'd just go with that. The parfum isn't going away any time soon, and you can always order a sample or decant online at some point (I'm assuming) if you're still curious.  

L'Homme Blanc Individuel

Do you like rose? That should be how you decide. The two scents are similar, but the Parfum is NOT just a stronger concentration of the original. It's a different scent. I would start with the original if the original is what clicked with you. You can't go wrong by choosing the one you already know you love.  

EDT. I didnt enjoy the "sun tan lotion" feel of the Parfum. I find the EDT to be a nice mid point between Escentric 03 and Kinksi.  

If you live the EdT get the EdT.  

Redneck Perfumisto

League of cycloöctadiene isomer aestheticists.

L'Homme Blanc Individuel said: Do you like rose? That should be how you decide. The two scents are similar, but the Parfum is NOT just a stronger concentration of the original. It's a different scent. I would start with the original if the original is what clicked with you. You can't go wrong by choosing the one you already know you love. Click to expand...

N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer

• May 21, 2021

Andy the frenchy said: Not a fan of either, but the least boring to my nose is the parfum. Click to expand...

absolutesauvage

Voyage EDP is a legit 10/10 for me. The smell is a refined version of Jardin Nile minus any screechy notes. Discrete sillage but deceptive longevity. I sweat alot at work since its over 100 degrees on the floor but Voyage sails past 10 hours for me and I never go nose blind to it. I try and avoid buying frags again when they run out, there's too many scents I haven't worn to do re-runs. This is the exception, I'm on my third bottle. The trick in my experience is this frag hates exposed skin. I don't do neck or arms. Five sprays on my chest, under shirt goes on immediately. I'm not going to pretend to understand why but for some reason I get fantastic longevity that way. When this bottle goes, I'll get a 4th. EDT is bright and more effervescent but has atrocious performance that I can't wring more than 2 hrs out of. I don't believe in carrying decants or reapplying a frag so I ditched it.  

I'd say go for the one you know you love over the one you hope you'll like even more. (And that goes not only for perfume, but for a lot of other things in life as well)  

I have both and as a coincidence I was wearing Parfum yesterday. I find the EDT better, with brilliant opening. Underrated classy scent. Maybe a karma carried by office-friendly scents. If you already like the EDT, get it first. Later on but the EDP that’s very close to it.  

Pure Parfum for the win  

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Poor Economic Outlook and Lack of Security Undermine Kabardino-Balkaria’s Governor

Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria: More than Mt. Elbrus!

If you’ve traveled to the North Caucasus before, there is a good chance you’ve already been to Kabardino-Balkaria, and you didn’t even know it!  Kabardino-Balkaria lies in the center of the North Caucasus region, is home to Mt. Elbrus, but more than that is a treasure chest of travel possibilities.  Here is our guide to traveling through the republic of Kabardino-Balkaria, or 9 travel tips to this beautiful land:

1. How do I get there?

Kabardino-Balkaria hosts a large number of both foreign and Russian travelers every year, and has an improving infrastructure able to handle the incoming masses.  Let’s start with the obvious.  You might be a mountain climber or skier coming to enjoy the slopes of Mt. Elbrus.  That means you’re likely arriving on an airplane to Russia.  Here are your travel options:

A. Plane – We advise you fly into the Mineralni Vodi (MRV) airport in the Stavropol Region, which is about 45 minutes from the border of Kabardino-Balkaria.  MRV is the largest airport in the North Caucasus, and has daily direct flights to and from all 3 airpots in Moscow (SVO, DME, and VKO), direct flights from St. Petersburg, and several international flight routes as well, including from Istanbul, Dubai, Greece, Tel Aviv, and Bishkek.  The MRV airport has a growing infrastructure and is the most obvious choice to fly into if going to Elbrus.  From MRV, it’s a 2 hr. drive to Nalchik, and a 3.5 hr. drive to Mt. Elbrus.

That being said, the capital of Kabardino-Balkaria, Nalchik (NAL), also has a small regional airport with a daily flight to/from Moscow as well as weekly flights to Istanbul. As is to be expected in most smaller, regional airports around Russia, the service standard at a small airport like this will be minimal.  As a result, we recommend you flying in and out of MRV if able.  It’s a 2 hr. drive to Elbrus from Nalchik.  You can also fly into other regional airports which are 2 hrs. from Nalchik, such as OGZ in North Ossetia (Vladikavkaz) or IGT in Ingushetia (Magas).

B.  Car/Public Transport – If you have a car, are using a taxi, or are hitch-hiking your way to Kabardino-Balkaria, the region is accessible by a variety of roads and vehicles.  A major Russian federal highway E50 runs through Pyatigorsk into Kabardino-Balkaria, and can take you towards Mt. Elbrus, Nalchik, and deeper into the North Caucasus.  There are daily mini-buses, or “marshrutkas”, that travel to Nalchik from Pyatigorsk, Vladikavkaz, Grozny, and Magas, if you’re coming from a neighboring republic.  From the main Nalchik bus station, there is a marshrutka that goes to Terskol (i.e. Mt. Elbrus) daily around 12:30 pm; for that matter,  marshrutkas run daily into every valley of this beautiful republic.  For the seasoned international traveler, you can drive from the country of Georgia up the famed “Georgian Military Highway” through the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, cross the border into Russia at the “Verkhni Lars” border stop, and be in Nalchik in about 2.5 hours as well. 

Anyone traveling on their own should download the “Yandex” taxi app, which is Russia’s version of Uber, and has a very user-friendly app with affordable prices.  In smaller villages/towns where Yandex’s service doesn’t reach, just ask a local and they’ll direct you to a friend or relative who can taxi you where you need to go!

C.  Train – Kabardino-Balkaria is also very accessible by the famous cross-country Russian train system if that’s your preferred method of travel.  Almost all trains to the North Caucasus pass through Mineralni Vodi in the Stavropol region to the north, so make sure wherever you are coming from, Mineralni Vodi is one of the stops.  Despite Nalchik having a train station, the city is about 45 minutes from the main railway route that runs diagonal through the North Caucasus, and as a result it’s a bit convoluted to get a train directly to Nalchik.  That being said, the town Prokhladni is a regular stop on trains going to/coming from Baku, Makhachkala, Grozny, Nazran, and Vladikavkaz, so you can always hop off there and find your way by public transport or taxi.

2.  What are the best places to stay?

This list could get exhaustive, fast. 🙂  Let’s first look at an overview of the republic’s geography, followed by hotel recommendations:

A. Nalchik – This is the capital city of Kabardino-Balkaria, with a population of around 250,000.  Nalchik is growing and new, modern hotels are being built regularly.  Here are some of our recommendations:

-Modern and comfortable:  Azimut , Butik Otel

-Budget with less frills:  Hotel Rossia , Korona

You could comfortably spend a week in Nalchik, while doing day trips into Kabardino-Balkaria’s beautiful mountain valleys.

B.  Baksan Valley – This is the most traveled road in Kabardino-Balkaria, the road to Mt. Elbrus.  If you have questions about its safety because of travel warnings, please see our detailed blog here of the drive to erase any doubts or fears.  Needless to say, because of the draw of Mt. Elbrus, there are a huge variety of lodging options at the end of this valley, from 4-star to mid-range to budget to hostel.  Here are just a few we’ll recommend from our experience:

-Modern and comfortable 4-star-ish:  Azau Star , Kristall 139

-Budget with less frills 3-star-ish:   Laguna , Povorot

If you’re a mountain climber with your sites set on the summit of Elbrus, you’ll have to spend at least 3-4 nights at Elbrus’s famous base camp at 13,000 feet.  The “barrel huts” are not easy to book directly with, and we highly recommend you do your climb (and hence, have your bookings handled) through a trusted climbing company.  Here are two shelters at base camp we recommend:

-Modern and comfortable:  Leaprus

-Budget with less frills:  Heart of Elbrus Lodge

If you’re interested in climbing Mt. Elbrus and staying in these barrel huts, click  here  to see our climbing itineraries, pricing, and group dates.

C.  Chegem Valley – Chegem Valley is the adjacent valley to Elbrus’s Baksan Valley, and is famous for its beautiful waterfalls as well as being Russia’s top paragliding location.  The “ Paradrome ” has modest accommodations for those wanting to get to know this beautiful valley for a longer period of time.

D.  Upper Balkaria, or Cherek Valley – This is another beautiful mountain gorge not too far from Nalchik.  There is an authentic lodging complex in Upper Balkaria called Tau-El, with amazing local food for meals as well.

E.  Border Zone lodging – Several of Kabardino-Balkaria’s mountain gorges run into the border zone with neighboring country Georgia, i.e. an area that foreigners cannot enter without a special permit from the local government (often taking 2 months to receive).  There is a famous mountaineering lodge in Bezengi Valley, where several generations of Russian mountain climbers have honed their craft in the Caucasus Mountains.  Perpendicular to Baksan Valley (about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus) is Adyr-Suu Valley, where there is a lodge for back-country skiers to stay, while trying their hands (and feet!) on the untouched snow of that valley.  Both these valleys require border permits for foreigners, but are possible to access for the more adventurous!

3.  Top cities to visit?

Most locals would agree that Nalchik is the main city of significance to visit in Kabardino-Balkaria, but let’s be honest, even more would say, “Just go to the mountains!”  Tirnauz is the capital of the Elbrus district, and is an interesting town to spend some time in, with its unique location in the mountains and place in Soviet history as a once-booming mining town.  The main thing to consider in visiting Nalchik and other cities in the lowlands, is the chance to experience Kabardian culture and food.  Whereas the deeper you go into the valleys, the more you’ll encounter Balkar culture and food.

4.  Best local foods to try?

There are 3 types of food that come to mind, when spending time in Kabardino-Balkaria:

A. Khychiny – This is one of the staple national dishes of the Balkar people, and what you’ll inevitably be served if guests of local Balkars.  It’s a thin buttery flat bread, sometimes cooked with fillings of cottage cheese, fresh greens, or potatoes.  It is often slathered in butter, but wow is that some tasty greasy goodness! 🙂

B.  Shashlik – Shashlik is a MUST for any visit anywhere in the North Caucasus!  Most people would agree that it’s the national food of the entire region.  Shashlik is meat shish kabobs; while pork and turkey can be found in some parts of the Caucasus, lamb or chicken are the preferred shashlik meats of choice in Kabardino-Balkaria. 

C.  Soup – No matter where you are in Russia, you’re sure to find a local soup that people love.  Kabardino-Balkaria is no different.  Especially in the winter months in the mountain valleys, there’s nothing better than to come inside from the cold weather and warm your body up to a bowl of hearty Caucasus soup.  Whether Georgian kharcho or local Balkar lakhman, make sure to try your hand at one of these soups with a side of fresh baked bread/lavash!

5.  Top Hole-In-The-Wall restaurants:

Of course, for a republic of this size, we’re bound to leave at least a few great local joints off our list, but here are a few to get you started. ***Note:  Restaurants in the North Caucasus are much better known for their food than their service, so prepare for tasty food, but manage your expectations about service:

-Elbrus – Kogutai Restaurant at Mt. Cheget – While this isn’t a hole-in-the-wall restaurant per se, it’s one of many to choose from in the Cheget tourist village, and we have found them to provide consistently good food and service.  Kogutai has a nice interior, and maybe most important, an English-language menu with good pictures. 🙂  There also is a nice outdoor patio with fantastic views of the surrounding mountains.

-Nalchik #1 – Tameris Restaurant – This is a cafe with a relaxed atmosphere in the capital Nalchik.  Local tour company Elbrus Elevation has taken foreign groups there on multiple occasions and always had good experiences.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 3. 

-Nalchik #2 – Cafe-Bar Oasis – You have to know where this restaurant is to find it, but once inside, you won’t regret it!  There is a unique cafeteria-style ordering process, that includes several dishes being cooked on the spot once ordered.  You can sample local Kabardian dishes here.  The seating area is very modern and a pleasant atmosphere to have a meal in.  Address is ul. Kuliyeva 2. 

-Upper Balkaria – Tau-El Restaurant – This is the restaurant part of the Tau-El Tourist Complex in Upper Balkaria.  Whether spending the night or just passing through, make sure to stop here for a meal!

6.  Must-See Sites

This republic is so chock full of “must-see” destinations, it’s impossible to narrow the list down.  Here are just a few suggestions to get you started: (***Mt. Elbrus is a no-brainer and we’re assuming that’s on your list)

A. El-Tyubu and Paradrome – This is an amazing area towards the end of Chegem Valley.  Many tourists visit the famous Chegem Waterfalls and don’t drive any further down this gorge, which really is a shame.  El-Tyubu is a picturesque Balkar village with several historical sites to see, including some ancient mausoleums.  The real gem of the area, though, is the Paradrome , which is Russia’s premier paragliding destination.  The combination of the scenic surrounding mountains and constant winds produces almost daily conditions to sail through the beautiful Caucasus sky.  Highly recommend!

B.  Upper Balkaria – Also known as Cherek Valley, the entire drive to the actual village of Upper Balkaria is one big destination.  First, you can spend time at the 3 consecutive “ Blue Lakes ”, one of which is one of Russia’s deepest lakes with an underground spring.  Then, the drive itself becomes an adventure, as you pass by steep rock walls with a huge drop-off on the other side.  If you’re able to walk this part of the road, that is a bonus!  Once you’ve made your way through the valley walls, the region opens up into a beautiful panoramic view.  Many years ago, there were multiple villages in this region, but they’ve since been condensed into one main village.  You can see some of the ancient Balkar towers that their ancestors used to live in as well.

C.  Djili-Suu – Although hard to pronounce and not easy to get to, Djili-Suu is one of those places in the North Caucasus that people rave about that you “have to” visit.  It’s actually on the North side of Mt. Elbrus, and more accessible from the Mineral Waters region (2 hrs. from Kislovodsk).  The base camp for Elbrus climbers summiting the mountain from the North side is at Djili-Suu.  This area is famous in Russia for its numerous natural healing springs, as well as unique climate conditions that make for beneficial, long holidays for seeking a respite from their daily grind.  There are wide swaths of land available for camping, with probably the most unrivaled views of Mt. Elbrus in the North Caucasus.  Make sure to check this out!

7.  Off-the-beaten path destinations

A. King’s Waterfalls (Tsarskie), or Gedmisht – Probably the valley in Kabardino-Balkaria with the least amount of hype is the Malka Valley, which is the northernmost valley and mainly runs through the Kabardian lowlands.  At the point where the villages end, though (Khabas), the asphalt turns into dirt and the hills start to rise, culminating with the incredible King’s Waterfalls, or as one friend put it, Avatar Waterfalls.  These stunning waterfalls are best visited in the early summer, when everything is lush green and the water flow is strong, with many streams of water flowing down the earth’s surface.  The different colors are incredible and it’s hard to look away.  Once you’ve enjoyed the waterfalls, enjoy a meal of shashlik at one of the nearby lunch huts.  Having an off-road vehicle is ideal to visit these falls, but worth the time and effort!

B.  One-seater chair lift at Elbrus – As the infrastructure at Mt. Elbrus has modernized, some of the more “authentic” experiences have gone to the way-side.  This is one experience still available, though!  From the 2nd (11,000 ft.) to 3rd level (12,500 ft.) of Mt. Elbrus (whether skiing, going to base camp, or just touring), there is a single-seater chair lift for 100 rubles each way (less than $2).  This is an amazing experience if you have the time.  It’s 8-10 minutes each way, and a surreal experience of the majestic Caucasus mountain range surrounding you, skiers silently passing you by underneath, and in general enjoying the silent expanse of nature all around.  The chair lifts are from the Soviet times and so it feels like something from a different era.  For mountain climbers, the newer group cable car gives better access to most of base camp, but several huts are pretty close to this chair lift, so it still may be a good option for you.

C.  Abandoned Mines above Tirnauz – Tirnauz is about 1 hr. from Mt. Elbrus, and a town everyone drives through to and from the mountain.  Although today it looks old and half-abandoned, it was a booming mining town in the 20th century.  About a 45-minute drive above the city with an off-road vehicle, you can see the remains of the mining operations.  Learning about this history combined with the breath-taking views of the Baksan Valley and even into Georgia, you’ll wonder why more people aren’t visiting this place.  This is a great spot to see eagles soaring in the sky, as well as admire the Soviet city plan of Tirnauz from above.

8.  What do I need border zone passes to visit?

In Russia, any area within 5-10 km of a neighboring country, without a clearly delineated border (i.e. in the mountains) is considered a special border zone, and patrolled by Russian border guards.  This area IS accessible to all Russian citizens with their passports, but is NOT legally accessible to foreign citizens UNLESS you have a special permit from the FSB (Federal Security Bureau).  These permits are accessible, either through a tour operator or local friend, but require you to submit your application 45-60 days in advance.

Areas in Kabardino-Balkaria that are worth a visit if you have a border zone pass:

A.  Bezengi Wall – This is at the end of the Bezengi Valley, and holds a place of lore among Russian mountain climbers.  Many mountain guides go through training in this valley.  Five of the Caucasus Mountain’ range’s highest seven peaks are a part of the Bezengi Wall, so you can imagine the draw it has for climbers. There are great areas for trekking and camping in this area. 

B.  Adyr-Suu Gorge – This remote valley runs perpendicular to Baksan Valley and is about 25 minutes from the base of Mt. Elbrus.  It’s marked at the entrance by a relic of the past, a car lift from Soviet days that auto-cranks your car (and you) about 50 meters up the mountain.  After 45-60 minutes of driving on gravel road, the gorge opens up into a flat valley with a beautiful view of the surrounding mountains.  The Adyr-Suu Alpine Lodge is at the end of this valley and where back-country skiers base out of during the acclimatization phase of their Mt. Elbrus ski tours.  This is truly a place where you can experience untouched powder!

C.  Mt. Cheget (Elbrus) – Cheget is a neighboring mountain to Mt. Elbrus and where many climbers will acclimatize, both at its base and while doing some hikes.  It also is famous in Russia for its free-ride terrain for more experienced skiers.  Standard access to the chair lifts and mountain are available to all (i.e. mountain climbers don’t need to worry about accidentally crossing into the zone), but anyone wanting to summit the peak of Cheget OR visit the beautiful Cheget Lake needs a border permit. 

Foreigners violating the border zone areas is considered a serious offense in Russia; make sure to do your due diligence if wanting to visit one of these areas!  We highly recommend using a local tour operator and always traveling with a local person if visiting one of these areas.

9.  Any cultural “do’s” or “don’t’s” to be aware of

Kabardino-Balkaria is a fascinating republic with a combination of traditional and modern society.  The more you interact with local people, the more you’ll see a mixture of Muslim faith, post-Soviet mentality, and ancient local traditions all wrapped together.   

Kabardians mainly live in the lowlands (Nalchik, Baksan, and lowland villages), while Balkars primarily live in the mountain valleys (Elbrus, Chegem, Upper Balkaria, etc.).  There is a large population of Russians in the region as well.  Foreigners visit every area of the region regularly, and so local people are used to and will welcome your presence.

Come with an open mind to learn about these peoples, their traditions, and their land.  You won’t regret your trip to Kabardino-Balkaria!

***Want to learn more?  Here are several self-published resources from the podcast “ CaucasTalk ” related to Kabardino-Balkaria:

– Travel Tips to Kabardino-Balkaria (audio version of this blog)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 1)

– History of Mt. Elbrus (Part 2)

– Interview with Local Elbrus guide

– Climbing Elbrus: Interview with American guide

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 1)

– Who are the Kabardians? (Part 2)

– Skiing in the North Caucasus (Elbrus and more)

READY TO EXPERIENCE KABARDINO-BALKARIA FOR YOURSELF?

Where to find us.

• +1 704-810-4296
• [email protected]
• 1578 Pine Creek Rd., Gastonia, NC 28056

Travel Information

• We no longer offer travel services to Russia. See Caucasus Quest Tours for new destinations
• Is it Safe to Travel to the Caucasus in 2024?
• Climbing Kazbek & Kilimanjaro: Comparing two 5,000+ meter peaks
• How to Train to climb Mt. Kazbek in Georgia

Our Elbrus Climbing Tours

• Climb Elbrus South Route
• Climb Elbrus North Route
• Climb Elbrus & The Capitals
• Climb Elbrus & The Caucasus

Russia Cultural Tours

• Capitals of Russia
• Lake Baikal on Ice
• Delightful Dagestan
• Heart of the Caucasus

ALL Travel Services to Russia and Mt. Elbrus have been indefinitely suspended as of Feb. 2022.

Explore our new tour branch Caucasus Quest to climb Mt. Kazbek (5,054 meters) in Georgia or for immersive cultural touring experiences in Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan.