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Results have arrived, the drop bar spectrum: road & gravel bikes explained.

There are a lot of different types of bikes all designed for different styles of riding. We explain the basic differences between road and gravel bikes and break them down into 7 main bike categories so you can figure out what type of bike is best for you.

Written by: Bruce Lin

Published on: Sep 29, 2023

Posted in: Gravel

Clockwise: Trek Madone SLR aero bike, Specialized Tarmac SL7 all-rounder bike, Bombtrack Arise gravel adventure bike, 3T Exploro RaceMax gravel race bike.

Modern cycling is a sport full of endless categorization. Bikes are designed and engineered to excel at particular types of riding, so bike categories have evolved as a way to neatly define what these bikes are meant to do. But with so much minutia, crossover, and opinion in the mix, bike categories can sometimes get muddy and confusing. 

We’ve covered the MTB bike spectrum , so now let’s take a look at drop bar bikes. If you’re unfamiliar with the term, “drop bar” refers to drop handlebars, the curvy handlebars commonly found on road, gravel, cyclocross, and track bikes. If you’re not sure what the differences are between those bikes I just mentioned, then this guide is for you. We’ll break down the basics of the different types of drop bar bikes that aspiring cyclists should know. 

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The Drop Bar Bike Spectrum: The 7 Modern Bike Types

Aero Road Bikes

All-rounder road bikes, endurance road bikes, gravel race bikes, gravel adventure bikes, cyclocross bikes, track bikes.

There are a couple of main characteristics that differentiate these categories — average tire size and geometry/handling — as well as a few more nuanced frame characteristics. Of course, there’s often a lot of overlap between categories, and there are always going to be outliers in each category. However, these key traits are generally reliable indicators of a bike’s intended purpose. 

Note: Touring bikes have been omitted. They’re not very common, especially with the rise of endurance road and gravel bikes, and we very rarely sell them. 

What's Relaxed vs. Aggressive?

When we use the words “relaxed” vs. “aggressive” to talk about bike geometry and handling, it can also be thought of as comfort-oriented vs. race-oriented. 

Relaxed geometry puts the rider in a more upright and comfortable riding position. Relaxed frames have more stack height, slacker head angles, longer wheelbases, and lower bottom brackets. This means the handling feels more stable, so it requires less attention or energy to pilot the bike, especially over long distances or on rough terrain.

Aggressive geometry puts the rider in a lower and more stretched-out riding position, which is often better for aerodynamics. Aggressive frames have lower stack height, longer reach, steeper head angles, and shorter wheelbases. The handling will feel more agile, which helps riders react quickly in race situations or when riding in fast-moving groups. 

[button] Bike Geometry Explained [/button]

Average tire size: 25-30mm

Geometry/handling: Aggressive

Strengths:  Road racing and high-speed riding on flat or rolling terrain 

Aerodynamic drag is the greatest force that affects how fast a road cyclist can ride and how much energy they have to expend. Aero road bikes are designed to be as aerodynamically efficient as possible. They usually have sculpted frames and use lower riding positions and other aero components (like deep-section wheels) to try and cheat the wind. Because of this, aero bikes are often slightly heavier than all-rounder road bikes. They’re best for road racers or performance-oriented riders trying to go as fast as possible on flat or rolling roads. 

Popular examples: Trek Madone, Cervelo S5, Cannondale SystemSix, Canyon Aeroad, Giant Propel

[button] The Benefits of Aero Road Bikes [/button]

Trek Emonda SLR

Average tire size: 25-32mm

Geometry/handling: Aggressive to relaxed

Strengths: Climbing, road racing, general road riding

All-rounders are a more do-it-all style of road racing bike. All-rounder frames may be designed with some aerodynamic elements, but the other key focus is overall weight. The frame tubes are generally slimmer than a comparable aero bike to reduce weight, which helps all-rounders perform better on steep hills and long climbs. All-rounders often have geometry and handling that’s similar to aero bikes and are good for road racers and performance-oriented riders who want to excel on hillier or mountainous terrain. 

Popular examples: Specialized Tarmac, Trek Emonda, Cervelo R5, Cannondale SuperSix Evo, Giant TCR

Average tire size: 28-38mm

Geometry/handling: Relaxed

Strengths: Rough pavement, long-distance riding, light mixed-terrain riding

Endurance road bikes place a greater emphasis on comfort and stability than aero or all-rounder road bikes. Endurance frames generally have more upright riding positions, compliance-enhancing features, and clearance for wider tires to enhance rider comfort. They are ideal for rough road conditions, light dirt and gravel, and long-distance rides, where bumps and vibration will increase rider fatigue. They’re also great for riders who don’t feel comfortable on more aggressive aero or all-rounder road racing bikes. 

Popular examples: Specialized Roubaix, Trek Domane, Cannondale Synapse, Canyon Endurace, Giant Defy

[button] The Benefits of Endurance Bikes [/button]

Average tire size: 38-45mm

Geometry/handling: Aggressive to Relaxed

Strengths: Gravel racing, unpaved roads, general mixed-terrain riding

There are tons of different gravel bikes so to keep things simple we are separating them into “race” and “adventure” categories, but you don’t need to be interested in racing to enjoy a gravel race bike. We're just calling them that because these bikes are "faster" on more surfaces than adventure bikes. Some might call these “all-road” bikes, but that term is less popular. This style of bike excels on unpaved dirt and gravel roads but can handle everything from smooth pavement to singletrack trails. There’s a wide range of geometry and handling options, but in general, they are more relaxed than road bikes so they’re more confidence-inspiring on unpaved roads. They are the most versatile type of bike on the market and can be used for everything from daily commuting to ultra-endurance gravel racing. 

Popular examples: Specialized Crux & Diverge, Trek Checkpoint, Cannondale Topstone, Cervelo Aspero, 3T Exploro

[button] Road vs. Gravel Bikes In Depth [/button]

Average tire size: 45-57mm

Strengths: General mixed-terrain riding, singletrack trails, bikepacking

Gravel adventure bikes are separated from gravel race bikes because they are much more similar to mountain bikes in terms of geometry, tire clearance, and their intended purpose. Because they have even more relaxed geometry and can fit larger tires, gravel adventure bikes are better on rougher terrain and singletrack trails than standard gravel race bikes, but they will be more sluggish on smooth gravel and pavement. Gravel adventure bikes are a popular choice for bikepacking, where riders carry camping gear on their bike to explore the wilderness.  

Popular examples: Salsa Cutthroat, Kona Sutra, Bombtrack Beyond, Rodeo Labs Flaanimal, Otso Warakin Stainless

Average tire size: 33-35mm

Strengths: Cyclocross racing

Before gravel bikes became popular, cyclocross bikes were the main mixed-terrain drop bar option. The difference between cyclocross and gravel bikes is that cyclocross bikes are designed to excel at cyclocross racing, which involves tight turns and running with the bike. The geometry is more aggressive to handle quick direction changes, and the frame is designed to be shouldered easily while running. While they’ve become less common with the advent of gravel bikes, they’re still a great choice for riders who want a bike that excels on paved and unpaved roads. 

Popular examples: Trek Boone, Specialized Crux, Giant TCX, Cannondale SuperX & SuperSix Evo CX, Scott Addict CX

Average tire size: 23-25mm

Strengths: Track racing

Some riders might refer to track bikes as “fixed-gear bikes” or “fixies.” There’s a range of track bikes, from bikes that are intended for racing on dedicated tracks, called velodromes, to urban bikes that are valued for their simplicity and durability. The key element is that these bikes have a single gear that is “fixed” to the rear wheel, meaning you can’t coast. It is the oldest, simplest, and most reliable drivetrain design. Dedicated track bikes don’t have brakes, which is safer on a high-speed velodrome. For safety, urban fixies riding on the road should have brakes, but some riders go without and stop by applying back pressure on the pedals or skidding. 

Popular examples: Specialized Allez Sprint Track, BMC Trackmachine, State 4130, All-City Thunderdome

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Bontrager Paradigm Pro 30 Gravel Wheels Bring MTB Width & Durability to Drop Bars

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Earlier this year at Sea Otter, Trek had several new launches including the excellent Carback Radar Tail light . Lately, Trek has been releasing new products in batches, which means that it’s easy to miss something new – like the Bontrager Paradigm Pro 30 TLR Disc gravel wheels. It wasn’t until after the show that we found the (very) wide gravel wheels on the Trek website. Naturally, we wanted to know more.

Gravel wheels are quickly seeing a race to mountain bike widths, and the Paradigm 30 wheels are no different. In fact, these wheels use the same rim as the Bontrager Kovee Pro 30 MTB wheel. That includes a rim that’s 35mm wide externally, 29mm wide internally, and 29mm deep. As a result, Trek says these wheels will pair well with 700c tires in 42-50mm widths like their new Betasso RSL GX.

The hooked rims are tubeless ready, and come pre-taped. The tubeless tire set up with the Bontrager Betasso RSL GX TLR gravel tire was a cinch using Bontrager TLR tire sealant.

What makes the Paradigm 30 wheels different than the Kovee Pro 30s? It mostly comes down to the hubs. The Paradigms have the necessary 12 x 100mm front and 12 x 142mm rear hubs needed for modern gravel bikes rather than the Boost spacing found on the Kovees. Both wheels are 24-hole with 14/17/14g bladed spokes and alloy locking nipples.

That should make the weight very similar as well, with the 1380g claimed weight of the Paradigm 30s just 5g less than the Kovee Pros. Once taped and the included tubeless valves installed, the weight is slightly more at 1428g.

Only PARTLY Compatible with Shimano GRX 12-speed

The only catch to consider when purchasing these wheels is that Trek/Bontrager currently does not have a Micro Spline freehub option for their road hubs, and has no plans to add one any time soon. Note that there is a Micro Spline option for their MTB Rapid Drive hubs, but they are not cross-compatible, and can’t be used here.

That only matters if you plan to run a GRX 1×12 drivetrain with a Shimano MTB cassette, or any drivetrain combination with a Micro Spline cassette for that matter. Otherwise, the wheels include a Shimano HG 11-speed freehub option that will work with SHIMANO GRX 2×12 drivetrains with HG splined cassettes.

Our sample shipped with the other freehub option, SRAM XDR which is available separately. Both freehub options include Bontrager’s Rapid Drive tech with 108 points of engagement.

New Bontrager Gravel Tires

Along with the wheels, Trek sent over the new Betasso RSL GX TLR and Girona RSL GR TLR tires to check out. As mentioned, the Betasso is a 700c x 50mm size, while the Girona is 700c x 45mm. Due to the difference in width and tread height, the two tires are almost 100g apart. I’ve spent most of my time on the Betasso so far, but the Girona tread is very similar to the new WTB Vulpine S which should make it extremely fast on pavement and hardpack dirt and gravel.

What are they like to ride?

Sometimes, review products show up just at the right time. That was the case with the Paradigm 30 Pros. I’ve been reviewing the Kona Ouroboros Supreme which came stock with Zipp 101 XPLR wheels that I have not been able to successfully run tubeless (this seems to be a known issue with these wheels, but more on that in the Kona review).

I needed a different pair of wheels as a result, and the Paradigm 30 Pros seemed like the perfect answer for a gravel bike like the Ouroboros that’s meant to get rowdy. The Ouroboros ships with 700c x 50mm Maxxis tires, so the 50mm Bontrager Betasso RSL GX tires seemed like an ideal fit as well.

Setting up the Bontrager wheels tubeless couldn’t have been easier. Just dump in some sealant, inflate, seat the bead, and you’re done. After the tire pinged into place, there weren’t any leaks to be found, and the tires hold air for the long term better than most.

It took a while, but the tires have now stretched to nearly their full labeled width at 49.70mm. In this case, it seems that the extra wide rims have had little to no effect on the tire’s overall width. That’s good news if your frame or fork is tight on tire clearance.

My immediate first impression is that this is one of the fastest 50mm tire setups I’ve ridden on pavement or hard-packed dirt/gravel (which is to say, still slower than many 45mm setups). Having changed both the wheels and tires at the same time, I can’t say which one is more responsible, but I can say that they make a great combination.

Usually with gravel tires, fast on pavement means you’ll be missing out off-road, but the Betasso gripped well in our humidity-slicked conditions, followed up by bone-dry late summer dust.

Starting out with 32psi in the rear, and 31psi up front, I quickly found you can get away with much lower pressures if you want to. The new WTC Pressure App recommended that I go 30.5 in the rear and 28.5 up front, which felt good but I was riding at 25 psi at one point and it still didn’t feel like the tire was squirming uncomfortably under the pressure, and I have yet to bottom the tire out on the rim.

During testing, I purposely hit every root, rock, and curb that I could find in an effort to see if the wider rim would result in more pinch flats. Happily, I had no such issues – even when charging at full speed on lower pressures head first into a wall of roots. You can also charge into root and rock gardens with abandon knowing that the wheels are covered by Trek’s Carbon Care Wheel Loyalty Program for the first two years – if you manage to break them, Trek will replace them for free. That coverage continues after two years but transitions to “steeply discounted” rebuilds or replacements. There’s also a lifetime warranty which covers manufacturing defects.

This is not the combination that I would choose if outright speed for gravel racing is the goal. But if you are looking for a lightweight gravel wheelset optimized for wide tires that can take a beating, the Paradigm 30 Pro TLR wheels are very enticing – as long as you don’t want to run a cassette that requires a Micro Spline freehub body.

These wheels are sold separately with the front selling for $679.99, and the rear priced at $819.99 for a total of $1,499.98 before tax. The wheels come pre-taped with the tubeless valve installed and carry no rider weight limit.

trekbikes.com

Zach Overholt is the Editor in Chief of Bikerumor . He has been writing about what’s new in the bicycle world for 12+ years. Prior to that, Zach spent many years in the back of a bicycle shop building and repairing nearly every type of bike, while figuring out how to (occasionally) ride them.

Based in Ohio, Zach is now slowly introducing a new generation to cycling and still trying to figure out how to fit the most rides into a busy schedule as a new dad.

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Best gravel handlebars of 2024: Options for all roads

The best gravel handlebars for stability and comfort no matter the surface

Choices for everyone

Relaxed riding

• Hoods first design
• Aerodynamics

Riding in the drops

Gravel racing

• How to choose

1. Quick list 2. Choices for everyone 3. Narrowest 4. Relaxed riding 5. Hoods first design 6. Aerodynamics 7. Riding in the drops 8. Lightest 9. Gravel racing 10. Comfort 11. How to choose  

If you are searching for the best gravel handlebars, you are most likely thinking of something with flared drops. It's the prevailing style so that makes sense but there's a lot more to choosing the best gravel handlebars than just if a handlebar is flared

Gravel cycling means different things to different people and that means choices. For some people, gravel cycling means gravel racing while for others it means under-biking single track, while others like to ride on the road and keep going when it ends. All of these uses have slightly different considerations and nuances that affect which gravel handlebar you might choose. 

There's also a growing understanding that the best gravel bikes are great all-around bikes. It's more and more common to see gravel bikes show up on a fast group ride, serve as a commuter option, or be a vehicle for carrying bikepacking gear for an off-the-grid weekend. 

Whatever you need, I've spent time testing the best gravel handlebars in a wide variety of situations. Keep reading to see my choices for the best. 

Options in carbon or aluminium and choices for three different reach options with three different flare angles.

Read more below

Lightweight carbon performance bar offered with a slight flare and as narrow as 38cm. 

A premium aluminium bar with a hoods-focused design that’s perfect for comfortable party pace riding. 

Hoods first

Another hood's first design but this time built with lightweight carbon and an ergonomic design perfect for an aero position on the tops of the controls.

Aerodynamic

Bladed aero shape with internal routing through the back of the bars into a stem.

When your race is rough enough to consider if it might be better to bring a hardtail mountain bike, these are the drop bars you should consider.

The best gravel handlebars on the market today

You can trust Cyclingnews Our experts spend countless hours testing cycling tech and will always share honest, unbiased advice to help you choose. Find out more about how we test.

For those who want lots of choice

1. Shimano Pro Discover

Specifications, reasons to buy, reasons to avoid.

There’s nothing that says you have to run a Shimano groupset with the Shimano-owned Pro handlebars, but the brand does say the two complement each other, and I see no reason to disagree. Shimano was the first to recognise that gravel cycling had needs that a specific groupset could solve. It only makes sense that its Pro brand of accessories created a handlebar to compliment the design of the groupset. 

Overall though what you get with the Shimano Pro Discover lineup is an incredible amount of choice. I've spent forever using the alloy version in a 40mm width and a 20-degree flare. It's inexpensive and the gentle backsweep along with the round shape on the tops is really comfortable in a static position as you climb. For me the combination was such a joy outside that I ended up moving it indoors to the bike I use when testing the best smart trainers . The reason I decided to highlight this set of handlebars though is not because of my specific choice but rather because Shimano offers so many. You can choose between 12, 20, and 30 degrees of flare ranging from just a little to truly wild. Sadly though, if you want to save 55 grams and make the jump to carbon fibre that does limit you to the 20-degree option. 

The best narrow gravel handlebar

2. Easton EC90 ALX

I've spent enough time on this guide that I can now, proudly, say I've been working on it for years. During that time I've also been on a mission to find options for anyone who's got narrow shoulders and needs less than a 40cm handlebar. Until the launch of the EC90 ALX, it's been a fruitless search and there’s been a big hole in the market.

The problem is that the bike industry is letting style dictate function. When your handlebar is too wide it causes aching shoulders. Women, or anyone with narrow shoulders, get left without a comfortable handlebar option for no other reason than wide is cool. With the Easton EC90 ALX, you can finally have both a ten degree flare to the drops and a 38cm size option. 

Aside from the wide 38-46 cm size range, the Easton EC90 ALX is a super light and comfortable carbon bar. The tops have an oval shape that makes for a nice big, size specific, place to grab plus a flattened bottom that helps add some flex for comfort. The flattened bottom also provides a place to tuck the cables since there's no internal routing. Thankfully this modern bar does have holes for di2 despite the lack of a hole in the back for routing through a stem. 

If you want a super light bar that's also narrow enough for small shoulders, or aerodynamics, there's simply no competition. If you bought a size 54 or smaller gravel bike, this should probably be one of your first upgrades. 

Relaxed riding on the hoods

3. Zipp Service Course SL 70 XPLR

Modern bike design dictates that resting on the hoods is most people's primary riding position. SRAM, and its Zipp brand, has responded by making the Zipp Service Course SL 70 XPLR a hoods-first design. There's a small 3-degree backsweep from the clamping area and 5 degrees of flare. That small flare keeps the controls mostly vertical with just a little angle that helps wrist position. To get the drops wider for more control there's an 11-degree outsweep instead of lots of flare. In the end, the result is similar but the path to get there is different. 

As you look at the prices out there, you might find that Zipp ends up being a little more expensive compared to other aluminium bars. The brand is quick to point out that the reason is the upgrade to 7000 series aluminium compared to 6000 series for less expensive options. That change should mean a stiffer bar but I wasn’t able to tell a difference so you’ll have to decide if that matters to you. For most people, the choice is likely to come down to weight and the shape of the bar rather than the aluminium. To that end, if the design sounds great but you don't mind trading a little extra weight for more affordability Zipp also offers the Service Course 70 XPLR (non-SL) with the same design. 

Overall, this option from Zipp and the Pro Discover handlebars from Shimano are very similar. There are a couple of differences worth noting though. One of the biggest is the difference in drop which is part of the already mentioned "hoods first" design. Zipp also keeps the controls much more vertical in their design and the ends of the drops point away from the bike, while Shimano keeps the ends of the drops parallel. In case you are worried, even though Zipp is owned by SRAM the brand still pre-drills for Di2 junction boxes. 

Fast riding on the hoods

4. FSA K-Wing AGX

There’s a bit of nuance here. Both the FSA K-Wing AGX and the Zipp Service Course SL 70 XPLR are designed for riding on the hoods. Both of these bars have some similarities because of that but they are also vastly different. The FSA K-Wing AGX is a carbon handlebar with an eye on performance and racing. At 216 grams in a 40cm width, it’s one of the lightest bars on the market but similarly to the Zipp, the forward sweep is the special sauce. In this case, the FSA K-Wing AGX handlebar has a ten-degree forward sweep and there are also flat spots behind the hoods. 

If you've ever seen someone who has bent their controls way in, that's the idea here. The difference is that it's far more subtle. It's just enough to put your wrists in a neutral position as you grab the tops but not so much that it feels unnatural. 

This is great if you are the kind of rider who loves to brace against the tops of the controls for an aero position. In that configuration, it helps point your fingers towards the centre of your body. The flat spot behind the controls is also a great place to rest your forearm. At the same time, when you do sit up, that flat spot keeps pressure off the palm of your hand. 

Outside of those details, the FSA K-wing AGX is a progressive and modern bar design. The drop is a compact 115mm paired with a short 75mm of reach. These specs match well to modern bike fits with low head tubes and less spacers. Because this is a gravel bar there's a 25mm flare from tops to drops for control when you need it. 

As much as I love this design, what I don't love is the bump on the flats near the stem. There are other options on this list that I've included for exactly that feature but it makes less sense here. Although it's comfy when climbing, this is such a great bar for getting into the most aero position possible, forearms parallel to the ground, that I can't help but think FSA could simplify the design, and lower the already low weight, by ditching the comfort-focused bumps. 

Aerodynamic gravel riding

5. 3T Aeroghiaia

Almost every modern road bike is aero-optimised. When it comes to gravel bikes there has been less focus on aerodynamics but that's starting to change. As long gravel races gain in popularity, and as the differences between an all-road bike and a road bike shrink, aero optimisation becomes more important. Not only that but the winged shape of an aero handlebar inherently makes a lot of sense off-road. While it’s not the specific focus in this bar from 3T, there’s always more vertical compliance in a bar of this shape. 

Bottom line, the advantages exist for a bar of this style, but there are also very few options. The 3T Aeroghiaia takes the shape of a road-specific aero handlebar and adapts it with a flare on the drops. The controls remain vertical but after the initial curve of the drops the bars angle out. The angle continues through a short 110mm drop before coming back to parallel with the bike before the bars end. 

Not only is this a great option for anyone wanting to aero optimise off-road but these bars from 3T could also be a great choice for a road bike; as gravel-specific bars have gained in popularity a lot of people have decided they love having flared drops on every bike. The fact that the cables not only route internally but also have the option of exiting through a central hole into a stem makes them even more of a universal option. The only downside to this bar is that 3T doesn't have any integration with a computer mount system. There's enough room to mount an out front product at the sides of the stem but that can fill up fast in ultra-endurance gravel situations. 

6. Ritchey WCS VentureMax Carbon Handlebar

Ritchey offers the WCS VentureMax handlebar in a carbon or alloy version. There are two main differences between the two. The Carbon fibre option adds partial internal routing and saves 42 grams of weight compared to the triple-butted aluminium alloy. Aside from those differences, there are some small differences in specifications but all the broad strokes remain the same: In both cases, the flats remain ovalized and the flare remains a generous but not exaggerated 24 degrees. You'll also find a subtle backsweep on the flats although the carbon version is a little straighter with only 4 degrees. The defining "bio bump" in the drops is there whatever material you decide on, and adds a little kink that aims to fill the void in your palms while in the drops and reduce pressure. 

Overall, these bars represent a balance between an all-out aero option like that from 3T and a round bar option. You get an ovalized top that’s comfortable for the hands, provides some vertical compliance, and some aero optimization, but you also get a lot of focus on comfort for the drops position. 

One challenge with any option that uses an ovalized top section is that it can limit the space for mounting accessories. The Ritchey WCS VentureMax isn’t actually not the worst offender as they’ve got a bit wider on the clamp area. Not only that but the oval section isn’t as deep as 3T so you might still be able to clamp to it depending on the accessory design. Also, if it does come up for you, then Ritchey offers the Universal Stem mount which solves the challenge by adding clamping space out in front of the stem. 

Lightweight gravel handlebar

7. Cadex AR Handlebar

Carbon fibre handlebars aren't typically built as a single piece. The exact construction will vary a bit between manufacturers but brands combine different pieces in the same way that carbon bike frames have different pieces. It's a system that saves money and produces a quality product but it does mean a slightly heavier end result. If you want to make handlebars as light as possible then that means as little material as possible. 

A single-piece construction uses less resin, and while it's more expensive to produce it is lighter too. There's an open question as to how important a few grams are but, if you are trying to optimise every piece of a bike, the Cadex AR handlebar is the lightest option on our list. It's also an option that's one of the closest to a standard road bike handlebar. If you are looking for an adventure bar for rough riding then you'll want to look elsewhere. If you'd rather add something light to a mixed-surface race bike then Cadex makes an excellent option.

The other reason you might want to consider the Cadex AR handlebar is that it’s incredibly comfortable across the tops. The design routes cables internally and doesn’t slim down from the clamping area, which means the tops feel really good in your hands. I don’t tend to ride on the tops a whole lot but anytime I do, these bars are a joy to do it on. It also makes clamping accessories easy since there’s no step down to negotiate. 

If you make this choice, just consider what you want. Cadex refers to these bars as the AR, or all-road, bars and the brand isn’t kidding. You could easily put these on a road bike and no one would question the decision.  

Rough gravel racing

8. Enve G Series Gravel Handlebar

Our expert review:

The kind of riding I like is road riding, I just don’t care anymore if the road is paved or gravel. That mindset fits well with many American-style gravel races but it also means I trend towards liking narrow bars with minimal flare. It also means I should hate the Enve G Series gravel handlebar. Instead, it’s the opposite and this is one of my favourite options on the list. The reason is the split personality of the Enve design. 

Across the top you have a perfectly straight and flat design that ends in an abnormally tight bend. There’s plenty of room for lights, bags, phone, whatever you need to mount for long rides. There’s also a ton of room for resting your forearms if you like the UCI illegal, quasi TT bars position . The 90-degree bends at each edge make for a comfortable place to rest your hands if you prefer to ride on, or at least near, the hoods. They also provide a comfortable place if you like to take the most aero position possible with your forearms parallel to the ground and hands on the hoods. 

That kind of riding isn’t what Enve is known for though. Instead, Enve is all about rough and technical riding that verges on mountain bike routes and that personality starts to show as you move down to the drops. The controls themselves sit at a little more of an angle than I’d prefer but the flare gets big by the time you get to the ends of the drops. It’s great if you like to take a wide hand position on technical sections and it’s also comfortable to stay aero even after long hours in the saddle. The combination of the two designs makes this a great option for one bike that does it all.

One of the most unique things about all Enve bars is the bar end design. Instead of just an open hole, Enve comes to a closed point and has integrated rubber caps. It’s fantastic for wrapping your bars but if you want to use a Di2 junction box be prepared to get a hacksaw. It also means you can’t use things like the Dynaplug Covert system which puts tubeless plugs in your handlebar ends. 

Read more details in my full Enve G Series Gravel Handlebar review .

Intentionally add flex

9. Whiskey Spano handlebar

The farther from round the top section of a handlebar is, the more the design will introduce flex. At least, generally speaking, that is what manufacturers will tell you. In reality, even the 3T bar which has the thinnest oval section of anything here is crazy stiff. I can't feel flex on that bar. The Whisky Co. Spano does things a little differently. 

Instead of just leaving flex as an added bonus, the design intentionally engineers it in. The top of the flats is flat but underneath you'll find two facets that create part of a triangle. You might recognize the design as being similar to seat posts designed to flex and in both cases it does work. I don't want to set expectations too high though, it's still subtle. It is there though and it's just enough to take the worst sting out of a big bump. 

Beyond that, the Whiskey Spano has the shortest reach on our list. It also almost matches the Surly Truckstop for drop but does so with a more traditional shape. There's some details that are reminiscent of the Enve bar too, like the tight curve on the ends of the tops and the long tail of the drops. It’s easy to move between the top, the hoods, and the drops and there's lots of room to comfortably hold the end of the drops or rest on the upper surfaces. The headline is the engineered flex but this is a bar for those who really want to move their hands around.

On top of all the great features, the price is lower than many of the other top self-carbon bars. It's hardly a bargain, but compared to Enve, 3T, or Cadex it might feel like one. The only odd detail is that while there is a hole for Di2, there's no internal routing. 

How to choose the best gravel handlebar for you

I touched on this briefly up above, but the first thing to think about is what kind of gravel cycling are you trying to find the best gravel handlebar for? If you are upgrading then there's probably a reason. Whatever it might be, at this point there's someone making a specialty choice for it. You don't have to settle, just consider what you need. 

Gravel racing is one big reason why you might want to upgrade. If that's why you are here then aerodynamics should be a consideration. That might mean an outright aero bar, it could mean a bar that runs the cables inside for better aerodynamics, or maybe the best gravel handlebar isn’t specifically aerodynamic but it lets you get into a more aero position. Any of those are solid ways to help shape the direction you want to go. 

Another consideration might be some kind of bikepacking. That could mean with a clock ticking or it could mean a casual weekend. Either way though it leads to considerations for the best bike lights and the best bikepacking bags and those are both things you might need to mount on the handlebars. Mounting considerations are another great way to narrow down your choices. 

The last thing to think about is fit. Fit is also the most important but you can usually start with a focus and then choose something that fits you. Sometimes not though and in that case, you might need to keep looking until you find what you need. When it comes to the best gravel handlebars, width is one big one that I struggle with personally and you may as well. 

Gravel bikes tend to come with wider bars because that's the style. If the bars don't fit you though, the style doesn't matter. People might also tell you that wider bars help with control but, again, it doesn't matter if they don't fit you. No matter who you are, although this is likely a bigger issue for women, keep looking until you find the handlebar that fits you. You deserve to be comfortable no matter what.

What makes a gravel handlebar different?

The defining feature of a gravel-specific handlebar is flare. Sometimes that actually means sweep and different companies define those two terms differently. What's important to understand though is that no matter what terms you use the drops are wider than the controls. 

The idea behind this concept is stability. Keeping control of a bike on loose surfaces means you want all the control you can get. That, in turn, means a wider hand position. At the same time, drop bar bikes gobble up long miles and an ultra-wide hand position would be uncomfortable as the hours ticked away. To satisfy both needs gravel focused handlebars keep the tops where bike fit dictates they should be. The drops being wider allows for a second position only when you need it.

Can I use gravel handlebars on my road bike?

Inherent in the decision to leave the controls at a standard width and drops wider is a recognition that most people don't use the drops most of the time. That's true beyond gravel bikes and applies equally to road bikes. Gravel handlebars also tend to have shorter drop and less reach than road handlebars. 

All those characteristics that make gravel handlebars what they are have the effect of making a really comfortable handlebar for most people. For the youngest and most flexible riders there might be a slightly faster position possible. For everyone else a comfort-focused handlebar makes a lot of sense on a road bike. 

More and more bikes are do-it-all options nowadays. In those cases, gravel handlebars are an obvious choice as they handle whatever you want to do. Even if you've got a dedicated road bike the extra comfort of a gravel handlebar design makes a lot of sense for a lot of people. Don't worry about labels and rules. If you want to run a gravel handlebar on a road bike do what makes the ride best for you. 

Do I want carbon fibre or aluminium handlebars?

Carbon fibre has a couple of advantages over alloy, the most obvious of which is lower weight. If you are wanting to save 40-50 grams, carbon handlebars will do it. The other often-quoted advantage of carbon is vibration reduction. Road vibration travels easily through aluminium and switching to carbon does reduce the buzz that gets to your hands. 

Like with carbon fibre bike frames weight and vibration aren't the only advantages, just the most obvious. There are other, more subtle advantages. Carbon fibre lends itself to complex shapes and allows tuning of flex very specifically, or creating aero-optimised profiles. Even if you don't care that much about weight it's worth considering carbon fibre. 

While the advantages to carbon fibre are real that doesn't mean it's the only thing worth considering. Aluminium handlebars are inexpensive and work great. If you can make the financial leap to carbon that's great. If you'd rather save money, don't worry you will still have high-quality options available. 

How much flare is best?

The answer to this depends on your riding habits. The bigger the flare, the wider your hands will be when riding in the drops, which will mean greater and more finite leverage over the front wheel, and thus, more control. However, the tradeoff is that the wider position may be less comfortable for extended periods.

If your gravel riding commonly includes short gnarly descents, then wider bars will probably add to your ride experience. However, if your riding is more about 'lite-gravel' and high average speeds with long descents, then a smaller flare will help you remain comfortable - and probably more aerodynamic - so you can spend more time in the drops. 

What width handlebars should I get?

A common school of thought with the best road handlebars over the years has been to choose a width that most closely matches the width of your shoulders, so for gravel riders who are predominantly riding on the road or smoother gravel, this is a good starting point for the width of the hoods, opting for the preferred amount of flare from there. 

Some riders find wider handlebars provide an increase in control, there's plenty of room for interpretation here though. If you tend to ride rough gravel and want increased leverage on your front wheel, then the only trade-offs when going wider are aerodynamics and comfort.  

Of course, bear in mind that as you go wider, the distance - or reach - to the handlebar is increasing, which you might want to offset by shortening the stem. This in turn will affect the handling, so there's a bit of a balance to find. 

My one piece of caution though, and I already mentioned this once, is that you shouldn’t be swayed by style or common wisdom. There’s a trend to go for ridiculously wide gravel bars (660mm is the current widest, the Crust Towel Rack) but for me, wide bars are painful. Over the years I’ve learned that I have to be firm about my needs even when I’m being told something different. The widest handlebars that work for me are 420mm and I actually prefer 400mm bars. Women might even need to go smaller. If that’s you, don’t be afraid to keep looking as there are not a lot of options out there.   

How do we test the best gravel handlebars?

I tested these options by riding bikes. I ride drop bar bikes in a wide range of situations and across a wide range of surfaces. Whenever it makes sense, I swap handlebars and see if there’s a better choice for the riding I’m doing. Sometimes that means I’m riding American-style gravel roads while other times that means rough singletrack. From that experience, I pulled together a group of drop bars that I felt represented the best available options for a wide range of riding styles and budgets.  

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Josh hails from the Pacific Northwest of the United States but would prefer riding through the desert than the rain. He will happily talk for hours about the minutiae of cycling tech but also has an understanding that most people just want things to work. He is a road cyclist at heart and doesn't care much if those roads are paved, dirt, or digital. Although he rarely races, if you ask him to ride from sunrise to sunset the answer will be yes. Height: 5'9" Weight: 140 lb. Rides: Salsa Warbird, Cannondale CAAD9, Enve Melee, Look 795 Blade RS, Priority Continuum Onyx

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Drop Bars vs. Flat Bars: Pros & Cons Explained

This article helps you decide whether to buy a bike with a drop or flat bars . I have rich experience with both handlebar types, so I explain their pros and cons below.

KEY TAKEAWAY

Drop bars are popular among road cyclists and gravel bikers because they allow you to ride in a more aerodynamic position. They also offer more hand positions, which you’ll appreciate on longer rides.

Flat bars allow you to sit more upright, so you don’t have to be as flexible and won’t put as much strain on your lower back. You will also have a better view and easily reach the brakes.

What Are the Pros and Cons of Drop Bars vs. Flat Bars?

I summarized the pros and cons of drop vs. flat bars in the following table. You will learn more about them below.

Hand Positions

The most significant difference between a drop and flat handlebars is the number of possible hand positions.

The flat handlebar only allows you to hold the grips (eventually also bar-ends/bullhorns). You can also hold the tops near the stem, eventually, lay on your forearm (don’t do this unless you are on a smooth tarmac):

Drop bars allow much more hand positions. These include hands on the:

• forearms on tops (don’t use unless you know the roads well and are smooth, it’s risky because you have very low control over your bike)

More hand positions are great for better riding comfort during long rides. You can easily change your hand position to a more comfortable one.

Riders use different hand positions based on their riding styles. For example, many cyclists (including me) prefer tops for long climbing.

Drops are ideal for attacking, sprinting, or descending. Hoods are suitable for group rides, etc.

Riding Position & Visibility

The riding position is closely related to hand positions on the handlebars. Road and gravel bikes are designed to allow you to sit in a more aerodynamic riding position.

Better aerodynamics means less energy spent at the same speed (compared to the same speed and worse aerodynamics on flat handlebars). This makes road and gravel bikes ideal for long rides at relatively high average speeds .

Your field of view will also differ depending on your hand position on the drop bars. When riding on drops, your head will naturally face more toward the ground, thus impairing your field of vision.

The more aggressive geometry of road bikes than hybrid or mountain bikes also contributes to this.

TIP : Read these comparisons of road vs. hybrid bikes and road vs. mountain bikes for more differences between them.

Conversely, bikes with flat handlebars often allow for a more upright riding position. This provides a wide field of vision, ideal for riding in terrain and traffic.

Cable Maintenance

Most bikes with drop bars have the cables (from brakes and shifters) routed under the handlebar tape. Nowadays, integrated cockpits and cable routing are also becoming increasingly popular.

This means that accessing and then servicing them is far more challenging than with flat handlebars, where they are normally routed externally.

If you use an electronic groupset or don’t service your bike yourself, you may not care about this difference. However, don’t be surprised if the workshop charges more for a bike with integrated cable routing.

You might also be interested in the differences between electronic and mechanical groupsets .

Maneuverability

Most cyclists agree that maneuverability is much better on flat handlebars. This is partly due to a more upright and stable riding position, a different center of gravity (less weight on the hands), wheelbase, wheel size, and leverage. Drop bars are not ideal for technical terrain (cyclocross and gravel bikes are an exception).

Brakes Access

Flat handlebars provide easier access to the brakes than drop bars because flat handlebars offer fewer hand positions. You’re more likely to have the brakes within reach.

With a drop bar, you have to think ahead to see if you need the brakes. When riding ‘tops’ uphill, you probably won’t brake. This position is all but inappropriate when riding downhill.

So if you need to brake suddenly, you’ll have to make an extra movement, which can be the difference between a crash or hard braking.

Remember that this only applies to certain hand positions. For example, riding on hoods or drops allows easy access to the brakes.

Space for Accessories

Since drop bars have a larger portion wrapped in handlebar tape and provide more space for your hands, they take away space for potential accessories such as bells, lights, etc.

In most cases, you will be able to attach these essentials to the drop bars, but if you are a hardcore bike packer, you may have a problem.

I hope this article has helped you clarify the pros and cons of drop vs. flat handlebars. Remember, one type is not better than the other for all riders. It always depends on what kind of cycling suits you and your riding style.

For example, road bikes almost always have drop bars, while hybrid bikes tend to have flat handlebars.

Feel free to comment below on what type of handlebar suits you more and why.

Drop Bars vs. Flat Bars FAQ

Hybrid (commuter, city, etc.) and mountain bikes have flat bars.

Road, gravel, and cyclocross bikes have drop bars.

Drop bars are ideal for performance-oriented riders who want to ride long distances without spending as much energy. These include road cyclists and gravel bikers because these bike types have drop bars. Remember, not drop bars are the same. They can have a different reach, fall, and width.

Flat bars are suitable for casual cyclists and commuters. The more upright riding position is more comfortable for most people. Flat bars are also ideal for mountain bikers because they allow better bike maneuverability than drop bars.

Yes, you can replace flat bars with drop bars, but you will also have to replace brakes and shifters for those compatible with drop bars. This change is pretty complicated. So, think twice about the bike type you need for your riding style to save yourself the trouble.

Flat bars are more comfortable for most riders because of their upright riding position. On the other hand, drop bars require more flexibility due to the more aggressive riding position.

Flat bars tend to be more comfortable than drop bars because of the more upright riding position. However, they offer fewer hand positions, which are also less aerodynamic. In the end, it depends on your preferred riding style. Read this entire article to help you decide which handlebar style is the best for you.

About The Author

Petr Minarik

2 thoughts on “drop bars vs. flat bars: pros & cons explained”.

Don’t forget the crippling cost of road shifters… Costly to experiment with.

Do you mean the Shimano/SRAM groupsets? Yeah, they are expensive. I have an entire article comparing them. – Petr

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Trek FX7.3 - change to drop handlebars ?

• Thread starter Col-A
• Start date 31 Jul 2009
• 31 Jul 2009

I've a Trek FX 7.3 (comes with straight bars); has anyone any experience changing to drop bars on this bike? If it's possible at all, I'm guessing there will be issues around headset/stem, brake levers & shifters. Is this do-able. . .? Is it cost effective? Cheers, Col  

Marie Attoinette Fan

> . . .in the end it isn't as good as a bike built for purpose. Thanks for that, aye, I agree - although I want my bike to be closer to a cyclocross than a pure road bike. Anyone any suggestions on where the best deals are for parts (bars, brakes/shifters)?  

I went to a lbs so I had back up if things went wrong/ it was harder than I thought; it wasn't I'm sure you'll find things cheaper on line. I find the online shops Chainreactoncycles and Probikekit OK for price but there are plenty out there and ebay too.  

Trumpettom001

Well-known member.

I was considering doing this with a MTB (GT Aggressor XC3 to be exact) but the guys at the bike workshop ripped the piss outta me for even suggesting the idea...... I'm still gonna do it to annoy them  

Did you ever get this completed as I want to convert my Trek 7.3FX Did you ever get this completed as I want to convert my Trek 7.3FX Was looking at the Shimano 2300 8-speed STI's but that's all I know as I'm new to all this!!!! I couldn't afford the Trek 1.5 (so the wife said) so had to go for the 7.3FX, but now really want drop bars etc.. Please can anybody help me on what I need ??? Thanks Peter  

Senior Member

I've done mine, I used Campag 10 speed shifters as I picked up a pair cheap, the 8 speed Shimanos were more expensive. Based on recommendation of someone else on here I also bought http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/froo...justers-with-Grease-Ports--Per-Pair-13985.htm and http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/src/froo...-Front-or-Rear--Silver-Alloy--Per-Pair-89.htm as there is no ability in the campag levers for adjustment and only the rear dérailleur and the drop bar levers don't have the right mechanical advantage for v brakes so you need the little vdaptors on them. Have a look here for more info http://www.cyclechat.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=28607 http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/productdetail.asp?productcatalogue=CAMPGRSS910000000000  

• 27 Sep 2009

@codemagpie - I did change to Ritchey drops, Tekro v-brake levers and Shimano bar-end shifters, it turned out OK, but I have to agree with HLaB - it's never going to be as good as a purpose built bike. The gearing isn't the same as a road bike's - and I found the bar-end shifters a real pain in the butt - nowhere near as good as STI or equivalent. I've put the original bars back on the 7.3 and moved the drops to an old steel framed Pugeot road bike I'm building as a single speed. All in all it was worth the experiment, but if you want a road bike, buy a road bike.  

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Converting flat bar into drop bars-----what do I need?

• Add to quote

Hi, I have a rigid Giant 29er with XT 1X drivetrain, SLX brakes. The current 1X crank has a 34T chainring but will soon be replaced with a Wolftooth 38T. Soon I would like to convert the flat bars into drops. What type of shifters/brakes do I need for this conversion? Pic of my bike is below.  

Attachments

I'm not sure you're going to be able to make all those changes to that bike. For one, switching to drop bars is going to mess up the fit of that bike. Drops WILL stretch you out as opposed to mtb bars. And your stem isn't long enough to shorten sufficiently to account for it. Second, check your chainring clearance to the chainstay. It looks tight enough in this pic that I have my doubts that you'll be able to fit a 38t chainring. You may not even be able to fit a 36t. Finally (and it's at least something you can address, but not like it matters considering the other two factors), you have the compatibility issues between drop bar levers and your XT 11spd drivetrain. Shimano 11spd road and 11spd mtb drivetrain bits don't play nice together. You could make them work with something like a Wolftooth Tanpan. You can at least connect the brake levers to your existing calipers, but you will need longer hydro lines and the associated hardware. Another option might be this system: https://www.gevenalle.com/product/hydraulic/ No need for adapters for your derailleur (can get an 11spd Shimano mtb compatible shifter), but you'd have to replace the brakes. Another would be to change everything over to SRAM, who currently make it easier to mix road levers and mtb derailleurs in a 1x arrangement.  

Don't do it. As Harold said drops will mess up your fit. I love drop bars but I would never do a conversion. I'm not a 100% familiar with US pricing but even for a pair of R7000 105 levers you'll have to spend around 300-350-400 bucks. (Oh and Shimano only makes 2x11 STis, no 1x option) I'm afraid it's the usual sell it and buy the bike you want deal IMO.  

HollyBoni said: I'm afraid it's the usual keep it and buy the bike you want deal IMO. Click to expand...

I wouldn't necessarily discount it based on fit until the current fit and proposed fit are evaluated. It could be drop bars properly set up will improve the fit making it appropriate for road riding. (IIRC, the high end flat-bar Trek FX had a Domane (drop bar) frame.) But yeah, I agree. The cost is likely going to make buying a new bike already set up they way you want a better option.  

x2 It will change the fit but not necessarily in a bad way. And the cost might be prohibitive.  

I took a cannondale 29er and stuck a 26" rigid fork, road wheels, and drop bars on it. The reach is LONG, but once I got used to it, it took a 29er I never really liked to ride, and made it into the best road/beast bike you could want. For the drivetrain, I have di2, so its a non thing. For mechanical, you'll really need to get a road rear derailleur that matches your shifters. RX800 is the ultegra with clutch that handles an 11-34 cassette. That would go nice with the new 105 hydraulic levers. 11-34 will be your maximum in this configuration. If you want to burn money, Di2 will let you run road levers and mountain rear derailleurs and big cassettes, but the cost is astronomical.  

I did the exact same thing to the exact bike. I used Shimano 105 shifter/brake levers, a Wolftooth Tanpan and a Wolftooth 38t (Largest they offer for M8000 crank) drop stop chainring, Giant "gravel" handlebars, and XT 11-42 cassette. The difference to my setup is I used TRP Spyre mechanical disc brake calipers because I chose the cable brake 105 levers. The 105 11 speed drop bar levers are offered in a hydraulic brake option, but the hoses are BH-59. Shimano "series" MTB brakes use BH-90 hoses and I wasnt sure If there were compatibility issues so I chose the mechanical brake route. There is a low end hydraulic Shimano MTB brake that uses BH-59 hose but the model name is escaping me at the moment. My frame is a medium and I used a 90mm stem from my wife's bike and the fit with the drop bars is near perfect for me. I did have to order the longest Dfuse seatpost Giant offers to get the proper saddle height without exceeding the minimum insertion line.  

Here is my Toughroad. I had the frame vapor blasted locally and painted the carbon fork black. It was the same color as the OP's. Giant must powdercoat these frames because it is a very tough finish. The guy who blasted the frame had to use an aggressive media to remove the coating then finish the bare aluminum with a finer media to smooth the surface.  

Look into Soma Gator bars. I understand the appeal of a drop bar- I have a cx bike for road/gravel use - but a narrow-ish flat bar with some comfy bar ends and TOGS might do the same thing. An alt-bar from Jones or Surly could be nice as well.  

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Bike Check: Russell Finsterwald's Drop Bar Trek Supercaliber - 2024 Leadville 100

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Cool Features

Liv’s Pique Advanced 1 is a Fast and Fun XC Trail Bike

The Pique is a women’s cross country mountain bike that will appeal to many riders seeking a taller, less stretched-out riding position off-road.

Gear-obsessed editors choose every product we review. We may earn commission if you buy from a link. How we test gear.

Takeaway: Liv’s Pique Advanced is a solid full-suspension, cross country mountain bike chassis that excels on fast and technical trails. The 115mm rear travel FlexPoint Pro system with a 120mm fork is balanced and controlled, even when pushed hard on terrain where mid-travel trail bikes are often better suited. Liv is the only brand making dedicated women’s bikes and its geometry is unique—some riders may love the geo while others might not. However, this is not a negative; the XC market is loaded with choices, and the Pique will appeal to mountain bikers of any gender seeking a more upright riding position for cross country and lighter trail riding.

Liv Pique Advanced 29 1

Price: $7,800 Weight: 24.5 lb. (size L)

Cross country is the hot segment in (non- electric ) mountain bikes with several brands relaunching or updating their XC offerings in the last two model years. Almost every mountain bike company offers models categorized as “cross country” or “XC”; you will even see XC bikes in the product portfolios of brands better known for road models.

Most brands will use the cross country designation for their models with less than 130mm front wheel travel, and a bias towards lighter weight and climbing ability over pure downhill speed. This can include ultralight race machines and bikes meant for technical trail riding—many combine elements of both. Scores of bikes fall under the cross country umbrella.

There are a lot of choices for bikes of this genre. A LOT . However, there are limited choices for women’s models. And perhaps the best example is Liv’s Pique Advanced.

The Modern XC Bike

Models and specification, why women’s bikes, basics on the pique advanced, digging into the geometry, how does it ride, is it worth it, notes from the field.

The term “cross country bike” once almost exclusively referred to hardtail or short-travel mountain bikes intended for racing. And many old cross country bikes descended poorly. But recently XC bikes adopted better geometry, dropper posts, and improved suspension—these changes significantly improved the bikes’ capability on the trail. Many new XC bikes can hold their own against longer-travel bikes when the terrain points downward and, because they’re lighter, climb better than heavy-duty trail bikes.

This shift to more capable XC bikes directly results from professional cross country races becoming more challenging over the past several seasons. UCI World Cup XCO tracks now regularly incorporate technical sections, drops, and jumps. So, athletes pushed their sponsors to provide bikes better suited for the racing conditions. And it means the average rider—who might never race—gets lighter, faster, and better handling cross country bikes.

With such a diverse XC bike market, what is cross country riding? It’s trail riding.

Trail rides range from cruises on flat and easy doubletrack to long climbs and challenging descents on technical singletrack. Since the definition of cross country varies from rider to rider, region to region, and trail to trail—it can even vary by day—trail riding is the easiest way to define it. What you consider cross country might be somebody else’s trail ride or vice versa.

Yet, even with an overabundance of bike options in the cross country category, Liv is one of the only brands with women’s-specific offerings. Liv’s Pique Advanced features a 115mm travel flex-pivot frame with a 120mm travel fork, dual-remote shock lockouts, a dropper seatpost, and fast-rolling tires. The Pique Advanced 1 weighs 24.5 pounds. It ticks all the boxes for inclusion in the broadly defined cross country category.

Liv offers the Pique Advanced in two configurations. Both models use the same carbon frame, are equipped with Fox suspension with dual-remote lockout, and use 29-inch wheels on all frame sizes. The Pique Advanced models also use adjustable travel Giant dropper posts, Shimano disc brakes, and Giant Carbon wheelsets.

Pique Advanced 29 1 - $7,800 (tested)

Suspension: Fox 34 Float SC Performance Elite fork and Float SL Performance Elite shock Drivetrain: SRAM GX Eagle Transmission AXS Crank: SRAM XO T-Type with power meter Brakes: Shimano XT hydraulic Wheels: Giant XCR 1 30 Carbon WheelSystem Cockpit: Giant Contact SLR XC carbon bar with Giant Contact SL XC stem

Pique Advanced 29 2 - $5,400

Suspension: Fox 34 Float SC Performance fork and Float SL Performance Elite shock Drivetrain: Shimano XT Crank: Shimano SLX Brakes: Shimano SLX hydraulic Wheels: Giant XCR 2 29 Carbon WheelSystem Cockpit: Giant Contact XC alloy flat bar with Giant Contact SL XC stem

A decade ago, if you walked into a bike shop or perused the websites of popular bicycle brands you found many bikes marketed as “women’s”. Some brands had completely standalone women’s lineups with frame geometry, components, and suspension tuning claimed to be optimized for women’s bodies and riding needs. Other women’s models were men’s frames with component changes (saddle, grips, and bar) and usually different paint and graphics.

If you search for women’s bikes on manufacturer websites now, you sometimes still find pages showing assorted bikes. However, virtually all the bicycles shown are the brands’ standard offerings versus dedicated women’s models.

Women’s bikes vanished from the market in only a few model years. Trek (WSD), Specialized, Cannondale, Scott (Contessa), and Yeti (Beti) are a few of the brands that quietly shifted away from separate women’s bikes. Factors contributing to the disappearance of women’s bikes include companies’ simplified model lines, more bikes available in XS and small sizes, women wanting the same bikes as men, and COVID-19 supply chain disruptions.

Juliana and Liv are the two brands still flying the flag for women’s bikes. And each takes a different approach to producing women’s bicycles. Juliana , a sub-brand of Santa Cruz Bicycles , uses stock Santa Cruz frames with different model names, colors, saddles, and rear shock tunes.

In contrast, Liv goes all-in on women’s bikes. While Liv bikes are sold through Giant’s vast dealer network—the two brands share ownership and manufacturing technologies—each brand has independent product development and marketing staff. Liv‘s specifications and features often closely match similarly priced Giant models, but Liv bikes have unique frames, geometry, and finishes. Liv also invests heavily in marketing and developing women‘s cycling—it sponsors top-level women’s road teams and the Tour de France Femmes avec Zwift.

I asked Jen Audia, the Global Liv Product Marketing Associate Manager, “Why should a rider purchase a women’s-specific bike?” She provided a long reply, the first part of which is below.

“Why not? Liv's focus on creating bikes that cater to women's needs isn't just a design choice— it's a commitment to addressing the gap that has existed in the cycling industry for years. We believe that women deserve bikes that prioritize fit, performance, and innovation.”

So yes, surely women can have a blast on the trails on any bike. But do women need different frame geometries to enjoy mountain biking? Liv feels strongly that its bikes provide women with a better fit, improved handling, and reduced fatigue than competitors’ bikes not specifically designed for women. But with the huge variation of rider heights, body sizes, and riding experience this may or may not be the same for every woman cyclist.

Liv launched its latest generation Pique Advanced earlier this year. The frame received similar updates that Giant applied to its Anthem Advanced XC race bike in 2022. The biggest change was abandoning the dual-link Maestro suspension system in favor of a more contemporary single pivot with a flexstay layout.

This setup uses a linkage to drive the shock paired with flex engineered into the seatstays of the Pique’s rear triangle. This is not too different than flexstay setups used on cross country bikes by Cannondale, Specialized , Santa Cruz/Juliana, and others. Ditching the Maestro’s lower link saves weight and, in theory, reduces service and improves reliability. Liv claims a 297-gram weight savings compared to the previous generation Pique Advanced. That comes out to 0.65 pounds, which ain’t exactly nothing—especially if you’re the type who fancies racing or chases QOMs.

Another update bringing the Pique in line with its XC category peers is the increased travel—120mm up front (a 20mm increase) and 115mm in the rear (a 15mm increase). Other changes include a modernized frame appearance, two bottle cage mounts inside the front triangle, and longer-travel dropper post compatibility.

Geometry-wise, Liv increased the Pique Advanced’s reach and wheelbase measurements, slackened the head tube angle by 1.5 degrees, added 2 degrees to the seat angle, and slightly shortened the chainstay length. These changes provide more confidence and control while descending and put the rider in a better position for climbing.

Many consider the Pique simply a women’s variant of the Giant Anthem as the two platforms share frame aesthetics, pricing, and many components. But if those folks dig into the details they will find Liv’s XC bike bests the Giant on two important fronts.

The Pique boasts more front and rear travel than the Anthem, making the Pique more on-trend with the cross country bike market and rider needs. Additionally, Liv offers the Pique Advanced in four frame sizes (XS, S, M, and L) to fit riders 4’11” to 5’11” compared to the Anthem Advanced three sizes (M, L, and XL) for people 5’7” to 6’6”. These two reasons should prompt more mountain bikers of any gender to consider the Pique.

The Pique’s geometry (particularly its stack and reach measurements) falls somewhat outside the norms of current cross country mountain bike trends. Liv does this purposefully, and the brand claims it bases this unique geometry on fit data from women cyclists. I do not feel this is good or bad, right or wrong; it’s simply different. And if it’s not your bidon of recovery drink, there is a plethora of fantastic XC bikes out there from which to choose.

Since there are no other bikes with women’s-specific geometry currently in the market, the only geometry comparisons are to non-women’s-specific models. Comparing the Pique Advanced to other brands’ cross country models with similar travel, the Liv often has taller stack heights and a shorter reach. This is especially true for the Pique Advanced’s M and L size frames, with the XS and S sizes sometimes equal to or longer than competitors’ models.

Compared to the Juliana Wilder, the only other women’s bike in the category, the Pique is taller in stack for all sizes and shorter in reach for M and L frames.

I am six feet tall and prefer more saddle-to-bar drop than some riders—the large-sized Pique was too tall in the front end and a little cramped in the top tube for my liking. I slammed the stem and flipped it to negative rise to cheat the front end lower and longer, and I had lots of fun on the bike. But if I were buying an XC bike I would want one with a rangier top tube.

Yet, many riders—women, men, and non-binary—want a medium or large-framed cross country bike with a shorter reach and more stack than bikes currently in the market. The Pique is a great choice for those riders. In other brands, riders are forced to size down if they want less reach or add a bunch of spacers to increase front-end height.

One weekend afternoon I met such a rider at the trailhead. The rider was unhappy with the fit of his 120mm travel bike but hadn’t thought about buying a Liv. He wanted an XC or trail bike with a short top tube and tall front end. A brief spin around the parking lot quickly had the man considering a women’s bike. More fit options are good—if a bike fits you correctly, it’s right for you regardless if it is women’s or men’s-specific.

The Pique Advanced has snappy acceleration and more than adequate climbing traction. It also surprised me with its capability on descents and technical trails. Bottom line: Modern XC bikes are a hoot and this bike is a ripper.

I am not a speedy climber, so I wasn’t planning to pick up any QOMs regardless of how well the Pique performs uphill. But the bike’s climbing prowess made the hills slightly less tortuous than they typically are for me. The Pique sits into the rear travel nicely on climbs. And as long as you spin and don’t mash on the pedals, the bike remains composed.

Sudden surges (of body weight and power) cause the rear to squat into the travel when climbing, though it does not break the rear wheel loose. I often found myself pushing the lockout lever during hard out-of-the-saddle charges—such as cresting a hill or powering up the inside line on a corner—seeking additional support or a more efficient feel.

On flat and rolling terrain, the Pique Advanced feels punchy. It quickly gets up to pace out of corners and the Maxxis Aspen tires maintain speed. The size L’s short wheelbase enables swift line changes—the bike has great flow when transitioning from corner to corner.

The Pique surprised me in technical sections and descents. With its limited travel and cross country race tires, I was not expecting the Pique to be nearly as adept as longer travel bikes with knobbier and grippier tires that I’ve ridden on the same trails. I even unexpectedly snagged a PR on a local descent.

I chalk some of the Pique’s abilities up to its geometry and some to its suspension. But there is also something to be said about the maneuverability of lightweight bikes. Putting the bike where you need it on the trail (because of the lower weight) aids you as much on descents and technical sections as when climbing.

While I detected some flex from the fork’s 34mm stanchions in some sections and under heavy braking, the rear end rarely felt overworked. Even when I increased the sag to about 33 percent (more than Liv’s recommended 25 percent), I did not experience any harsh bottom-outs.

However, my experience with the Pique wasn’t all sunshine. As referenced earlier, I thought the front end was too tall and short for my preferences. Other riders may like the taller front end and should consider this bike. However, my criticisms of the Pique Advanced are mainly with the components; specifically the controls.

The combination of brake levers (Shimano), shifter (SRAM AXS), dropper lever (Giant), and lockout remote (Fox) is an ergonomic mishmash. Individually, each works well on its own. But together, the different brands’ levers spatially clash with each other. After some repositioning trial-and-error, I found a setup that worked adequately. Though it wasn’t perfect and it annoyed me every time I rode.

Additionally, the bike’s two-piston Shimano XT stoppers are adequate but not exceptional. Cross country bikes from competing brands are almost all equipped with four-pot units. Heavier duty brakes add a little weight but provide more confidence and control. As a heavier rider, it’s a trade I’d take. However, more braking power is something lightweight riders also need on the trail, particularly because the Pique can hold its own on trails often reserved for 130mm or 140mm bikes.

Value is always subjective and highly dependent on your wants and needs as a rider. Looking strictly at the price, at $7,800 the Pique Advanced 1 is the priciest option for SRAM GX AXS Transmission -equipped bikes. But the extra cost might be worth it for racers or riders who train with power.

Popular competitors in the XC category—such as the Specialized Epic 8 Expert , Juliana Wilder GX AXS TR , and Cannondale Scalpel 2 —are $800 to $1,300 less than the Liv. However, none of these models come with remote lockouts or power meters—both upgrades will set you back several hundred dollars. Remote lockouts, in particular, require extra parts and shop time that add to the cost.

A bike that costs significantly less than the Pique and comes stock with remote lockout and carbon wheels is Canyon’s Lux Trail CF 9 . Currently on sale for $5,300, the Lux is a hot deal. However, Canyon’s claimed weight on the bike is nearly 3 pounds heavier than our measured weight on the Pique Advanced. The Lux’s top tubes are also long; 35mm longer than the Liv in size L. So, if Liv’s geometry is specifically what you’re seeking, spending more for the Pique Advanced 1 (or downgrading to the Advanced 2 for the lower price) is necessary.

Earlier in the review I provided Jen Audia from Liv’s reply to “Why should a rider purchase a women’s-specific bike?” The second part of Audia’s response to my query was, “When you choose a bike from Liv, you're not only getting a considered product experience, you're also supporting a movement that is redefining what inclusivity in cycling truly means.”

Some of that is slick marketing speak—Audia is great at her job, after all—but there is also a big nugget of truth in there. Many riders want to purchase a bike and Liv is the only brand fully committed to women’s-specific product and marketing. If buying a women’s-specific bike makes more women hit the trail, get in more miles, or try racing, then women’s bikes are important.

There are plenty—perhaps too many—options for “men’s” bikes, so there is surely space for a women’s brand. Plus, some men will discover that a women’s-specific bike fits them best.

• Liv noted that it tunes suspension on the Pique Advanced “so the best performance can capture 95% of our target audience. That covers a weight span from 54kg [119 lb.] up to 85kg [187 lb.] where the performance is at its best.” I am over that range (I weigh about 200 lb.) and did not experience any jarring bottom-outs from the rear suspension.
• The stock Maxxis Aspen, 29”x2.4” TLR EXO tires rolled fast and had more grip than expected. However, I burped the rear tire on two rides with 24/26psi (f/r). Adding pressure made the rear feel pingy off rocks. I didn’t want to damage the tires or rims running less pressure, so I kept it around 26psi. Consider swapping to beefier rubber depending on your local trails and riding style.
• The Fizik Vento Argo R5 saddle is typically found on road and gravel bikes, but it’s a favorite of mine so I was pleased to see it on a mountain bike.
• 760mm is standard for bars on XC bikes, but as a former downhiller, I wanted wider. Luckily since the bar isn’t a one-piece set-up, changing to wider bars is a simple fix.
• The bike’s weight—24.5 lb. for size L—helps with maneuverability on descents as much as it’s noticeable on climbs.
• As someone who all too often stares at her watts on rides, I liked having a power meter on the mountain bike. Especially because the numbers often showed I was riding harder than I thought given my perceived effort.

As Deputy Editor, Tara Seplavy leads Bicycling’s product test team; after having previously led product development and sourcing for multiple bike brands, run World Championship winning mountain bike teams, wrenched at renowned bicycle shops in Brooklyn, raced everything from criteriums to downhill, and ridden bikes on six different continents (landing herself in hospital emergency rooms in four countries and counting). Based in Easton, Pennsylvania, Tara spends tons of time on the road and trail testing products. A familiar face at cyclocross races, crits, and bike parks in the Mid Atlantic and New England, on weekends she can often be found racing for the New York City-based CRCA/KruisCX team. When not riding a bike, or talking about them, Tara listens to a lot of ska, punk, and emo music, and consumes too much social media.  

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