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The Perfect 3-Day Black Forest Itinerary

Last Updated on February 1, 2024

by Paola Drexler

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Even if you only have time for a 3-day Black Forest itinerary, there is no doubt that visiting this gorgeous corner of southwestern Germany is 100% worth it.

In German, the forest is called der Schwarzwald, which references the pine trees’ deep dark green colour, making the forest look almost black.

If you are a fan of the Brothers Grimm fairytales, Harry Potter or just love traditional German towns, this destination will deliver in making your wildest dreams come true.

Table of Contents

How Many Days in the Black Forest?

Since the forest’s region is so massive, you might be contemplating how many days to spend in the Black Forest.

Some people only take a day trip to get a quick feel for the area, but I would recommend spending at least 2 days in the Black Forest and even then you can expect your days to be packed and might not get to experience all of the attractions.

However, if you do have an extra day, you will find that 3 days in the Black Forest does give you more time to breathe and enjoy the scenic forest to the fullest. You can even venture outside the area to explore other nearby cities.

As you may well know, the Black Forest is located in Germany’s southwestern state of Baden-Württemberg, spanning the cities of Baden-Baden, Freiburg, Offenburg and Pforzheim. You will also find the Rhine River, which reaches other popular cities like Frankfurt and Heidelberg , in the south and west of the forest.

Although the forest is magical all year round, the best time to visit the Black Forest is during the warmer seasons to ensure you can do all the outdoor activities.

Getting To & Around the Black Forest

You will be happy to hear that it is quite easy to get to and around the Black Forest, whether your preferred mode of transportation is by car, train or other methods.

If you are flying in, you will find that the closest airport depends on where you start your journey. For example, near the French/Swiss/German three-way border, you will have the Basel Airport which has great access from big cities like Frankfurt , Amsterdam and London .

You can also find the smaller Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden Airport on the western side of the forest. The third and probably best option is the Stuttgart Airport, which is the largest of the three and also serves some discount airline carriers.  

For those who wish to plan your Black Forest travel itinerary by car, you can rent one at the airport or other available locations, just be sure to reserve in advance.

It’s also a great idea if you want to go beyond the Black Forest and embark on a greater Germany road trip. You can browse rental car options here .

Although exploring by car might be a convenient option, you can also complete your Black Forest trip by train. You can take a direct train from many of Germany’s major cities and it’s also quite accessible from neighbouring countries.

With train routes running alongside the forest, you can explore the different areas on foot and hop on The Black Forest Railway or other railway links to get around the grand forest. You can view schedules here.

Travellers on holiday can receive a free KONUS Guest Card at most resorts, just be sure to register with your host beforehand. This card allows for unlimited access to public transportation in the area.

If you are not eligible for a KONUS card, you can also purchase a SchwarzwaldCard that not only provides bus and train rides but also gives you access to 200 attractions. With this card, you can choose any three days to use it which is perfect for your 3 days in the Black Forest.

3-Day Black Forest Itinerary

Often, when people imagine a traditional German trip, they might think of the wooden half-timbered houses, giant cuckoo clocks and neverending lush green forest.

All of that, including cute red hats, delicious meat cuts, Black Forest cake and so much more can be found in this incredible area. If you are in search of something mystical, you will be sure to find it – whether it be through the magical food or sights.

Day 1 – Klotser Maulbronn, Calw & Baden-Baden

You will begin your journey just outside of Pforzheim, the city that is nicknamed “Goldstadt” or “Golden City.” Should a start in the south be more convenient (e.g. by flying into Basel airport), you can simply reverse the order of the days. Should you have more time at the beginning, consider a visit to Schloss Karlsruhe before beginning, especially if you love grand baroque palaces.

Kloster Maulbronn and Calw

Just a twenty-minute drive from Pforzheim, you will come across Maulbronn where you can visit a historic UNESCO World Heritage Site and well-preserved monastery from 1147 known as Kloster Maulbronn or Maulbronn Monastery.

Over the years it has seen its fair share of success and hardship, but today you can find the town’s police station, town hall and other offices on the grounds. 

Make your way down to Pforzheim, where its watchmaking and jewellery history is rich since these businesses date back to 1767.

Now that you are officially in the Black Forest, you will travel deeper into the forest until you reach Calw, which is a tiny town in the northern part of the forest. Here you can see some of the most beautiful medieval houses framed with timber that look just like what you would imagine a typical Black Forest village to look like.

Treetop Walk

Your next stop, at the Treetop Walk, will give you a lovely walkway where you will have the tops of the evergreen trees at eye level and you will see the forest from above. This is more than a typical hiking trail, it’s truly an experience.

The walkway will lead you to the observation tower where you will have a great view of the Black Forest and feel closer to nature than ever.

Baden-Baden Spas and Wine Route

After your treetop adventures, it’s time to head to Baden-Baden where you will get a chance to enjoy the calm side of the forest. If you have ever wondered what it was like to pamper yourself with a relaxing day at a spa during your trip to the Black Forest, well then you can find that out here.

You will also see that although Baden is the name of the region, the word also translates to bathing and the area takes its name seriously.

Baden-Baden is a great place to end your first day. You can check with your accommodations whether they have a spa you can enjoy or you can book a time with a spa nearby, like Caracalla Therme, to take a drink from the Fountain of Youth and enjoy a thermal bath. The town is famous for its thermal water springs which have attracted visitors for centuries.

However, before calling it a day you can indulge a bit more at the Baden Wine Route. Here you can learn all about the vineyards and delicious wine growing in the area. With most vineyards offering wine tastings, you can find out what wine in this part of Germany is all about.

Alternatively, you can end your day exploring more nature in the area, including the lovely Lake Mummelsee and the nearby Allerheiligen Waterfalls.

Day 2 – Freiburg & Titisee

On the second day of your Black Forest road trip itinerary , you will drive south, passing the town of Gengenbach. Depending on the time of year you are visiting the area, you might be able to catch the town’s Fasnacht or carnival festivities where people celebrate with parades and wear costumes.

Black Forest Open Air Museum

The next stop is the Black Forest Open Air Museum in Gutach, where you will learn the history of the town’s iconic wooden farmhouses dating back to the 16th century.

In the immersive experience, you will also get a taste of what life was like in the Black Forest. When you are done at the museum, get back into your car or get the next train towards Freiburg am Breisgau.

Freiburg Cathedral

Once you reach Freiburg, you will follow the alluring church bell chimes beaconing you to the Freiburg Cathedral. To match the mystical and gothic atmosphere enjoy a great view of the city and forest from the top of the cathedral.

During the winter in December, you can find joyous Christmas markets to add some extra magic to your trip. If you are visiting in February you can enjoy the town’s carnival or if you go a few months later you can experience the fun wine festivals.

Just outside of Freiburg, you can also find the Schauinsland cable car which will give you incredible views of the mountains and the forest.

Titisee-Neustadt and Lake

After Freiburg, you will head southeast to discover the stunning Titisee-Neustadt area. On the way to Titisee, you will drive by the Ravenna Gorge, which is a valley carved by the Ravenna River where you will see an extraordinary bridge.

You will continue down the Black Forest route until you come across a charming town with all the authentic Cuckoo clocks you have heard of, along with the region’s most mouthwatering cheese and meat cuts in the shops lining the lake in the city centre of Titisee-Neustadt.

No matter the time of year, you can enjoy the glorious Lake Titisee and the various activities surrounding it. In the warm times, you can swim in it, picnic near the shore or stroll around. In colder times, if the lake freezes, you can even ice skate on it.

You will end your second day strolling the street of Titisee-Neustadt, exploring the region’s delicacies and perhaps enjoying some local schnapps. Or, if you’re still keen to see more incredible nature, head to the nearby Feldberg to enjoy some gorgeous mountain scenery.

Day 3 – Triberg Waterfalls, Burg Huhenzollern, Europa Park & More

To end your 3 days in this enchanted forest with a bang, you will have a few options to choose from. There are plenty of activities to do in the forest for those who enjoy hiking, roaming the wildlife park and outdoor fun things but there are also many day trip adventures nearby.

Triberg Waterfalls

For travellers looking to spend more time in nature, you can head north from Titisee to Triberg to continue your Black Forest road trip.

In the middle of the forest, after a leisurely hike, you will come across the Triberg Waterfalls. If the weather allows it when you reach the falls, you can reward yourself with a refreshing dip into the water and enjoy the impressive waterfalls.

Burg Huhenzollern

After Triberg, just about an hour northeast you will find the magnificent Huhenzollern Castle which comes straight out of a fairytale and is a fantastic place to visit when planning to explore the Black Forest.

While this castle is extremely impressive, you will find it interesting to learn that there were actually two other castles built on Mount Huhenzollern before the current castle. The construction of the first castle dates back to the 11th century and reconstruction for the third castle started around 1850.

Visitors can now tour the castle and imagine themselves as royalty when strolling the rooms and grounds.

Danube River Source

From Titisee, you can travel 30 minutes east to the Danube River in Donaueschingen. The river flows through 10 countries and has become a significant landmark in European history.

If you wish to continue exploring Germany or other countries, you can easily do so on a river cruise on the Danube.

In Donaueschingen, you will also find what is known as the source of the Danube as well as the Fürstenberg brewery.

Europa Park

For those with kids or who are young at heart, you can spend the day in Rust at the amusement park Europa Park.

The theme park is the largest in Germany and after Disneyland Paris the second most popular in Europe. The diverse themes within the park are meant to give most European countries a representation.

No matter where your third day takes you, you will be sure to have a great last day in German’s wonderful Black Forest.

If you’re not interested in the theme park, then consider heading to the gorgeous town of Schiltach, located on the Kinzig River. This is a charming medieval town to visit in the Black Forest.

Where to Stay in the Black Forest

Huber’s Hotel – This 3-star hotel in Baden-Baden is an excellent base for mid-range travellers in the Black Forest. They have single and double rooms on offer, parking is included on-site and there is breakfast available in the mornings.

Hotel Rebenhof – Located about 10 kilometres from the centre of Baden-Baden and overlooking the beautiful wine region, this luxe hotel is an excellent base for those looking for a high-end escape in the Black Forest. They have countless lovely rooms on offer and a number of wonderful amenities to ensure you have the perfect stay.

limehome Baden-Baden Bäderstraße – If you’d like to return to your own apartment after a long day of exploring the Black Forest region, then you’re sure to love this aparthotel in Baden-Baden. They have a range of flats on offer that are fully furnished with everything you may need.

Not quite what you’re looking for? Click here to browse more Black Forest hotels!

The Black Forest is sure to enchant all those who get to visit. Now that you’ve planned out what to do in this beautiful area, you can sit back and enjoy the soothing sounds of the Cuckoo clocks while digging into a delicious cherry torte in the mystifying forest.

Are you planning to visit the Black Forest? Have any questions about this itinerary? Let us know in the comments!

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About Paola Drexler

Paola is a writer for The World Was Here First. Originally from the state of Arizona in the USA, she lived in Germany before moving to the United Kingdom. Paola loves spending her free time travelling in Europe and sometimes ever further afield.

Hi Paola, Could you tell us the best place to stay in the black forest where they make cookoo clocks, we would like to get one for our 50th anniversary, l have checked the clocks on line but would prefer to see them working. l can not walk very far at a time so would prefer to be in the area and check out all the stores

hello Paola, we will be in Vishofen and have 4 days to explore on our own after that. We would like to see picturesque scenery and small towns, not really interested in large cities. The romantic road? the Black Forest? someplace else? Are either of those possible in 4 days by car? Should we take a train to get closer, then rent a car? We need to end up near an international airport to fly to or towards the USA on the 5th day. I wish we knew someone personally that has been to this part of the world, but we do not. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Betsy

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The Ultimate Black Forest Travel Guide: What to Know Before You Visit

Situated in the southwest corner of Germany, the Black Forest, or Schwarzwald in German, is renowned worldwide for its dark conifer forests, picturesque villages, hiking trails, and thermal spas. Steeped in mystery and myth, the Black Forest is a favored destination in Baden-Württemberg for many Germans when vacationing within their own country. Having visited Schwarzwald several times, I can vouch for its allure. There is a myriad of activities to enjoy in the Black Forest! I’ve compiled a Black Forest travel guide that includes everything you need to plan a trip to Schwarzwald, from crafting your own Black Forest itinerary to detailed descriptions of the region’s attractions and cultural sites.

The state of Baden-Württemberg is an ideal travel destination that caters to all interests. Many tourists and locals alike flock to the Black Forest to explore Schloss Hohenbaden , trek to the Triberg Waterfalls , and admire the half-timbered houses in Schiltach . Moreover, Schwarzwald offers an opportunity to breathe in fresh air, making it an excellent destination for outdoor adventures. For an authentic Black Forest experience and a chance to immerse yourself in local life, consider venturing off the beaten track.

The best part of visiting Schwarzwald is that you can’t go wrong with any itinerary because the Black Forest is an expansive area rich in tradition. Visiting the Black Forest is an essential component of any Southern Germany road trip and is undoubtedly one of the best things to do in Baden-Württemberg. In this travel guide, you’ll also find my recommendations and tips for planning your Black Forest itinerary, serving as a starting point for organizing your trip to Schwarzwald. Let’s dive right in!

Where is the Black Forest in Germany?

The Black Forest region in Baden-Württemberg is known for the cuckoo clock, the Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, and the highest non-Alpine Mountains in Germany . Extending for approximately 100 miles along the French border from Switzerland to Baden-Baden, the Black Forest is the hub of the country’s timber and woodworking industry. The Black Forest National Park features 11 moderate trails ranging from 3.9 to 20.8 miles, with around 250 different communities within theregional area.

Why is it Called the Black Forest?

Locally known as the Schwarzwald, the region evokes images of wizards, gnomes, and witches, resembling an enchanted forest from a fairy tale. The Black Forest is steeped in myths and legends, with tales suggesting that the dense canopy of evergreen trees was so thick that sunlight had difficulty reaching the forest floor. This led locals to refer to the forest as black.

A Brief History of the Black Forest Region

For instance, timber from the Black Forest was utilized to construct foundations for homes on the soft, sandy ground in the Netherlands . In the mid-18th and early 19th centuries, many farmers used the wood to craft intricate cuckoo clocks to supplement their income during the winter months. Today, local cuckoo clockmakers continue to uphold this rich cultural and historical heritage

Today, the Black Forest stands as one of the best-managed forests in Germany. Visitors may not immediately recognize this as they gaze upon the rolling green hills and dense woodlands. However, as they delve deeper into the national park, they can observe areas designated for forestry activities alongside sections where new planting is underway. In certain regions, rows of young plant seedlings are still visible.

Another notable feature of the Black Forest is its thermal spas. The Romans were the first to introduce bathing culture, with Europeans rediscovering the healing springs in the early 19th century. The natural hot springs in the northwestern corner of the Black Forest, including the spa town of Baden-Baden, attract spa enthusiasts from around the globe.

How to Get to the Black Forest

Flying to the black forest region.

If you’re traveling from the United States or Canada, Frankfurt serves as the main airport for this region. Trains operate between Freiburg (Breisgau) Hbf and Frankfurt (Main), as well as connecting Karlsruhe, Baden-Baden, and Offenburg to major cities in Germany by rail.

When visiting the Black Forest using public transportation, some planning is necessary. If you arrive in major cities, consider using regional trains to reach the smaller towns on your Black Forest itinerary. For those interested in a scenic train journey through the Black Forest, obtaining a Konus card could be a smart choice. This guest card is valid during your stay for all local buses and trains, as well as trams and buses in Freiburg and Karlsruhe.

Driving in the Black Forest

Certainly, the most convenient way to explore the Black Forest is by car. With numerous rental companies operating in Germany, you can readily collect your vehicle at the airport upon arrival. If you’re journeying from Frankfurt, consider taking Autobahn A5, which traverses Offenburg along the western periphery of the Black Forest.

Alternatively, you can opt for Autobahn A81, which passes through the valley on the eastern side of the region. Both routes serve as excellent starting points for driving to any town within the region and are ideal choices if you’re considering a self-drive tour of the Black Forest.

When is the Best Time to Visit Black Forest

Schwarzwald is a breathtaking year-round destination that captivates the soul with its stunning landscape and natural beauty. Depending on your interests, the region provides fantastic opportunities for cross-country skiing, hiking, and biking.

For hiking enthusiasts, summer is the perfect time to visit . Spring arrives later at higher elevations, with hilltops in the Black Forest typically covered in snow in early March. To witness nature in full bloom, consider visiting in late April or early May.

During winter, Schwarzwald receives abundant snowfall. If you’re seeking winter activities in the Black Forest, the national park offers opportunities for cross-country and downhill skiing. You can also witness major sporting events like ski jumping, attend a dog sled race, or enjoy snowshoeing and snowboarding. Additionally, don’t miss the enchanting Christmas markets in picturesque towns during the holiday season

Where To Stay In The Black Forest, Germany

Baden-Baden: Schwarzwaldhotel Sonne Karlsruhe: Hotel Zum Ochsen Durlach Europa-Park: Hotel Bell Rock Freiburg: Hotel Schwarzwälder Hof Bad Teinach-Zavelstein: Hotel Berlins KroneLamm Triberg: Hotel Central Garni Feldberg: Hotel Schlehdorn Gengenbach: Die Reichsstadt Heidelberg: Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg Gernsbach: Schloss Eberstein Endingen: Zollhaus Lahr: Hotel Restaurant Adler Vogtsburg: Schwarzer Adler Estate Hotel

How to Explore the Black Forest

After my last three trips to the Black Forest, I figured out that the best way to explore is to set up a home base and explore from there. On my recent trip, I stayed in Kirchzarten, which is only a 10-minute drive from Freiburg. The town a number of reasonably-priced hotels as well as vacation rentals. However, if you’re interested in a more rustic experience, the concept of farm stays is quite popular here.

I crisscrossed Schwarzwald on my recent trips and there are still places I haven’t seen. To create a perfect Black Forest itinerary you’ll need first to narrow down the list of places you want to visit.

If you have more than a weekend, set aside some time for particular points of interest you’ll encounter along the way. But if you have set a specific time to leave the area try to plan more specifically for your days.

Keep in mind that wherever you go, you will likely come across a lot of charming places that deserve a stop.

When visiting the Black Forest, hiking its numerous trails is a must-do activity. Major cities like Baden-Baden, Freiburg, and Offenburg have local tourist offices where you can obtain maps and details about shorter routes.

To create your itinerary, start by selecting the area you want to explore and then choose your preferred route. Online planning tools can display all trails in the chosen region, some even highlighting specific attractions, accommodations, and trails leading to those points of interest.

Read Next: A Complete Guide for Visiting Dublin

In the Black Forest, most routes are straightforward to follow, marked consistently with various color-coded markers. However, it’s common for a single route to be indicated by multiple colored markers.

Remember, there are yellow local trails (gelbe Raute), blue regional trails (blaue Raute), and red main trails (rote Raute). Notable trails include those running north-south and east-west, such as the Freiburg-Bodensee (Westweg) and Kaiserstuhl–Rhine Black Forest Trail.

Multi-day hiking trails are deeply ingrained in local culture, with plenty of inns and stops along the way. It’s entirely feasible to explore the Black Forest through hiking without the need for camping in a tent.

Moreover, the Black Forest offers a variety of theme trails for you to explore, each focusing on a specific aspect of the region. These trails range from pilgrimages to farm life experiences and cultural highlights to famous attractions. You can even embark on the schnapps trail, leading you through the forest past schnapps and wine fountains, offering a unique and flavorful experience.

Here are the Most Beautiful Tourist Routes in the Black Forest:

The Schwarzwaldhocstrasse , or the Black Forest High Road, is the oldest tourist route in the Black Forest. It covers high areas in the northern Black Forest, focusing on scenery and panoramic views.

The Badische Weinstrasse , or Baden Wine Route, travels through the winemaking region on the west side of the forest. The route includes numerous wineries and renowned restaurants.

The Schwarzwald-Bäderstraße , or Black Forest Spa Route, travels through some of the top spa towns in a region that is known for its phenomenal spa experiences.

The Klosterroute Nordschwarzwald , or Northern Black Forest Monastery Road, visits four spectacular historic monasteries, including the UNESCO World Heritage Maulbronn Monastery.

Other routes exclusive to the Black Forest include the Schwarzwald-Tälerstraße , and the Baden Spargelstraße, or Asparagus Route.

Tour routes running through the Black Forest, but not exclusive to it are:

• The German Framework Route , red line, featuring stunning half-timbered architecture across the region;
• The Hohenzollern Road , which follows the path of the Prussian royalty throughout Baden-Württemberg;
• Römerstraße Neckar-Alb-Aare , or Roman Road Neckar-Alb-Aare, traces Roman ruins throughout the area, with excavations and open air museums.

Things to Do in the Black Forest

Visit a castle.

While Schwarzwald is not particularly known for its castles or palaces, the region boasts some outstanding examples, ranging from functioning sites open for tours to mere ruins. Schloß Eberstein near Gernsbach, Karlsruhe Palace , Castle Hohengeroldseck just to name a few.

My American readers may be interested to find within the castle museum a letter penned by George Washington to a Hohenzollern descendant thanking him for his service in the American Revolutionary War.

Go To a Spa

Friedrichsbad and Caracalla in Baden-Baden, mineral thermal bath in Bad Teinach, Paracelsus-Thermae in Bad Liebenzell, and Palais Thermal in Bad Wildbad are among the best spas in the Black Forest region.

Since the Roman era, Schwarzwald has been known for its health retreats and spas. At first, Roman soldiers were sent to recuperate and “take the waters” here. Centuries later the Black Forest was frequented by royalty, the European nobility, and the world’s elite. It was the place to see and be seen both in the summer and in the winter and that feel has permeated the region as it is today.

With more than 400 ranking criteria to determine the overall quality of a spa, there are 17 different sites in the Black Forest to visit. With this in mind, pick a town with a name starting with the word “Bad” (bath) to get a quality spa experience.

Hike To Triberg Waterfall

Located in the town of Triberg, the Triberg Fall is one of the most scenic natural wonders in Schwarzwald. The trail begins right in town. It is well marked and you will need to pay a small entry fee to access the trail. You’ll climb from the foot to the top of the waterfalls on a winding path along the cascading falls, with lookout points to enjoy the view.

After a point, the trail branches off in three directions. The main trail loops back into the town. Don’t miss seeing Maria in der Tanne pilgrimage church along the route. The small baroque church is very unique to the Black Forest with an impressive altar and wonderful carved wood doors.

Enjoy The Rides At Europa Park

Europa Park sits in the town of Rust, some 50 minutes from Offenburg. This is Europe’s second most popular amusement park (after Disneyland Paris). Split into 15 country-themed areas, Europa Park features world-class rides in a setting that recreates highlights from around Europe . You can take a Poseidon Water roller coaster ride, have a lot of fun with Cassandra’s Curse – spinning-room dark ride, and check out Russia’s Mir space station. I particularly like Atlantica Super Splash that creates a refreshing spray and genuinely makes you feel like you left Germany!

Visit The Black Forest Open Air Museum

You can easily spend one full day there because the museum features an extensive collection of farmhouses ranging from 16th to the 18th centuries. In order to understand local life better, you can join guided tours both in German and English. From March to November there are activities and workshops like traditional baking and cooking, folklore, and craft demonstrations. This will be a fun-filled learning experience for kids. Check the timings before you go, so that you won’t miss anything.

Go To a Historic Mine

Did you know that there are amazing medieval mines beneath the Black Forest? In Schwarzwald extensive mining activities took place during the Middle Ages but today nearly all of the mines are closed to production. Several former mine sites have re-opened their doors to visitors after refurbishment.

So if you’re into the history of mining technology, you can choose any of the 12 mines in the Black Forest that offer tours ranging from 45 minutes to two and a half hours. Museums-Bergwerk Schauinsland, Mine ‘Frischglück’ in Neuenbürg, Mine ‘Finstergrund’ in Wieden, Mine ‘Teufelsgrund’ in Münstertal and some others offer scheduled tours.

Beautiful Places to Visit in the Black Forest

First things first, there are endless beautiful places to visit in the Black Forest. Every village and town here has unique aspects and something special to see. Wherever you go, you will always find something worthwhile along the way. However, when it comes to planning your own Black Forest travel itinerary, there are some extraordinary locations that you may want to visit in the first place.

Freiburg im Breisgau

With a charming medieval old town and dynamic café culture, Freiburg harmoniously combines the old and the new. The Munsterplatz , or cathedral square, is where the lively open-air market takes place on working days, great for people-watching. The atmospheric Freiburg Munster with its frightening and grotesque gargoyles is worth a visit too. The cathedral is home to the 750-year-old Hosanna bell , as well as the 116-m-high tower that offers scenic panoramic views of the town.

Another great thing to check out in Freiburg, especially for kids, is the Bächle ! These little cobbled water-filled gutters run through the city center. In the summer, waterways attract barefoot kids of all ages to play, splash and have a blast.

Set in the pine-forested Nagold valley, Calw has a reputation for being one of the forest’s prettiest towns. As the birthplace of German novelist, and Nobel Prize recipient Herman Hesse, there’s a museum dedicated to his works. Calw is another stop on the Timber Frame Road so you can expect to enjoy the peaceful and tranquil countryside.

Start exploring Calw with the picturesque market square. Surrounded by 18th-century half-timbered houses, Calw’s square offers a quintessential German experience – think cobbled streets, towering Gothic churches, and of course, delicious beer. The city owes its growth to tourism. Many flock here to see the ruins of Hirsau Monastery , stop by the Tannery Museum, the Monastery Hirsau Museum, and the Farmhouse Museum.

Bad Wildbad

Situated in the north of the forest, Bad Wildbad is a lovely riverfront town where you can take a river walk to try the Palais Thermal baths. The thing I love about Bad Wildbad is that the spa town is much cheaper than Baden-Baden. At the same time if offers amazing spa facilities, a wide range of treatments for health, entertaining cultural events, and cross-country trails on the Sommerberg and around. If you’re feeling adventurous, take a ride on the Sommerberg Funicular Railway, then take the Schwarzwald Treetop Walk .

Breisach am Rhein

The tiny town of Breisach sits on the German side of the Upper Rhine River in the immediate vicinity of Alsace. You can reach Breisach by rail from Freiburg in 30 minutes. Alternatively, there are trains to Breisach from Riegel am Kaiserstuhl, north of Freiburg. To the west, there is Colmar in France. Catch a bus at Breisach Bahnhof bus station to enjoy a 30-minute bus ride.

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Breisach, this charming town, was nearly obliterated during WWII but meticulously reconstructed in its original style. It stands as one of the most picturesque destinations in the Black Forest, deserving more frequent visits. A great way to begin your exploration of Breisach is by visiting St. Stephen’s Cathedral , a majestic structure that dominates the cityscape.

Next, make sure to visit the Blue House , a memorial site honoring the history of the Jews of the Upper Rhine. Discover the secrets of the Radbrunnen Tower (Radbrunnenturm), which served as a town hall and medieval court torture chamber. If your schedule allows, consider crossing the river into France to witness the magnificent UNESCO World Heritage Site, the star-shaped Neuf-Brisach Citadel of the Sun King

Baiersbronn

This picturesque mountain resort comprises nine charming hamlets renowned as a hub of haute cuisine in Germany. It has gained culinary acclaim for the remarkable number of Michelin stars awarded to three local restaurants.

The striking ruins of All Saints’ Abbey (Kloster Allerheiligen) possess a haunting allure, set amidst a secluded backdrop with a tragic history. Established in 1192, the premises have endured destruction from fires in 1470, 1555, and ultimately by lightning in 1804. To the southwest of Baiersbronn, a scenic trail leads to the 40-meter tall Sankenbach Waterfalls (Sankenbach-Wasserfälle). Visitors can interact with a long wooden lever that enables them to adjust the waterfall’s flow volume

Nestled just a 20-minute train ride away from Offenburg, the town of Gengenbach is a picturesque delight with its narrow cobblestone streets, charming stone fountains, and half-timbered houses. Each corner of this chocolate box town exudes postcard-worthy charm, adorned with brightly painted shutters, flower boxes, and bronze lanterns.

Gengenbach is a highlight along the German Framework Road , resembling a scene from a fairy tale. For an unforgettable Christmas experience, be sure to visit Gengenbach in December. Leading up to Christmas, the town hall transforms into a grand Advent calendar, with each of its 24 large windows unveiling intricate scenes day by day.

In fact, Baden-Württemberg was one of the first areas in Europe to host Christmas markets. Gengenbach is a unique place to enjoy a traditional Christkindlesmarkt that isn’t ruined by commercialization or overrun by crowds. Also, don’t miss out on visiting Narrenmuseum Niggelturm, Löwenberg Museum in the former Patrician’s house, and the Rafting and Transport Museum in the former Warden’s House.

There is a number of vineyards surround much of Gengenbach, while hikes in the area range from about 1-13 miles. Shorter walks are available along some of the vineyards close to town. The paths won’t be actually winding through forests, but you’ll have incredible views of the area, as well as the town itself.

The Bottom Line

I hope my Black Forest travel guide has sparked your interest in visiting Schwarzwald soon. If you’re still seeking additional options to include in your itinerary, there are countless places worth exploring in this region. From castles and trails to museums and picturesque towns, the Black Forest offers a plethora of choices that are sure to delight you.

Schwarzwald is one of my favorite places in Germany, and I will definitely return. The question is, how many times.

Still have doubts about how to arrange a trip to the Black Forest, what to do, and where to stay? Don’t be shy, leave a question in the comments below. If you enjoy what I do, I would be grateful if you could click the affiliate links sprinkled throughout this page. This will help me with running MindTheTravel and writing great travel tips! Thank you for your support!

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My husband and I lived in Germany many years ago and this took me back. Thank you.

I would love to visit The Black Forest. Your article makes it look like a very interesting place to visit. Thanks for this.

Never knew it was known by Schwarzwald. Seems very exciting! Would love to visit it!

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As the setting of countless Grimm Brothers’ fairy tales, the Black Forest happily plays up to its image as a land of cuckoo clocks, cherry gâteaux, outlandish traditional garb, hefty half-timbered farmhouses and hill upon hill of dark evergreen forest. But even brief exploration soon reveals more of the character of a region that’s part of the state of Baden-Württemburg but was shaped as much by its history as a long-disputed borderland between Germany, France and Switzerland – and where something of each is in evidence.

Baden-Baden

The kinzig and gutach valleys, the northern black forest, the southern black forest, the cuckoo clock.

Since Roman times this series of rounded granite summits, which topographically forms a counterpart to France’s Vosges on the other, western, side of the Rhine Valley, has been a border region. The Romans found it harsh and rather impenetrable and the region took centuries to populate and even then was considered an oddly backward part of Germany.

Inevitably the Black Forest first rose to commercial prominence for its timber, and forestry naturally spawned woodwork – giving farmers something to do in the winter – and so the famous cuckoo-clock industry, the associated precision engineering, and the manufacture of musical instruments followed. All these continue to provide jobs, though the regional mainstay is now tourism, which continues year-round thanks to skiing and spa facilities. So you won’t find yourself alone exploring this attractive region, but escaping the crowds at the various hotspots is easy, particularly if you’re keen to explore on foot or by bike.

Relative to its fame, the Black Forest region is not terribly big – about 150km long and maybe 50km wide – and so easily explored by car in just a few days, though of course that rather misses the chance to drop down a gear in one of Germany’s most treasured regions where good scenery is matched by many time-honoured traditions.

Dozens of attractive slow-paced small towns and villages make touring a delight, but perhaps the best way to explore is to base yourself in one of the two largest towns and strike out from there. The most genteel base is Baden-Baden , a grand old nineteenth-century spa town in the north that specializes in dignified recuperation and pampering.

Bad Wildbad, is another smaller, less expensive alternative in the Northern Black Forest , which is otherwise known for its attractive marked drives, particularly the scenic Schwarzwaldhochstrasse , or the Badische Weinstrasse , which travels the range’s foothills through wine country. Both drives can be used to access the attractive Kinzig Valley which, along with the adjoining Gutach Valley , is considered the most quintessential and traditional Black Forest area. South of here, the attractive and upbeat university town of Freiburg dominates. Exploring its usually sun-soaked narrow streets is fun, but its main attraction is as a handy base from which to explore the entire Southern Black Forest . Deep valleys are flanked by rounded peaks like the Feldberg that tops out at 1493m, and include many minor ski and lake resorts.

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The smart and dignified grande dame of German spas, BADEN-BADEN lies cradled in the palm of idyllic and gentle wooded hills, 42km south of Karlsruhe. In the nineteenth century this was the St Tropez of high society and something of this era’s privilege survives in the dusty elegance of its villas, hotels and boutiques and in the manicured gardens where well-groomed socialites promenade. The absence of any heavyweight sights, moreover, helps make it a near perfect setting for a recuperative weekend.

Brief history

Baden margraves built today’s thermal baths in 1810 around the same springs that once lured Roman bathers – in particular Emperor Caracalla – nearly two millennia earlier. The baths were a hit in nineteenth-century Germany, so architect Friedrich Weinbrenner designed a complementary Neoclassical spa quarter. Some thirty years later, dapper Parisian impresario Jacques Bénazet added a casino, catapulting Baden-Baden to an elite playground that lured an international who’s-who to play, promenade and soothe their rheumatic joints: Tolstoy, Strauss, Queen Victoria, Kaiser Wilhelm I, Dostoyevsky, Bismarck, Tchaikovsky, Brahms and the Vanderbilts all visited. More recent visitors have included Bill Clinton, Barack Obama and Victoria Beckham. Mark Twain came too, but had mixed feelings, describing it as “an inane town, filled with sham and petty fraud and snobbery”. The town emerged unscathed from World War II and now effortlessly blends its halcyon days with modern-day pampering.

The high life: hot-air ballooning in Baden-Baden

As a premier magnet for the well-heeled, it’s maybe no surprise that Baden-Baden has Europe’s largest fleet of hot-air balloons. So if you’ve struck it lucky at the casino, you might like to splurge on a two-hour champagne breakfast flight along the Rhine Valley between the Black Forest and the Vosges for €253 per person with Ballooning 2000 (07223 600 02, ballooning2000.de ).

When to choose your hat carefully

Baden-Baden’s social highlight of the year is the August Iffezheim races , Germany’s Ascot, which has been going strong since 1858 and encompasses two events: the Frühjahrsmeeting over the last week of May; and the grander Grosse Woche in the last week in August, when the country’s elite dress to the nines and don flamboyant hats.

The Kinzig and Gutach valleys are quintessential Black Forest landscapes; they’re also the birthplace of many of its most eccentric folk costumes, and cuckoo clocks are sold here by the tonne. From Baden-Baden the region is most attractively accessed along the twisty and scenic Schwarzwaldhochstrasse , which leads to the northeastern end of the steep-sided and densely forested Kinzig Valley , the horseshoe-shaped hub of the Black Forest’s largest valley system, dotted with a series of picturesque small towns. Particularly appealing are the monastery and brewery town of Alpirsbach , and the quaint gathering of half-timbered houses at Schiltach . For generations this remote valley made its money logging and farming, and its modest and fairly sleepy communities celebrate this heritage with various evocative museums, including the open-air Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum , one of the region’s premier sights, just up the feeder valley of the River Gutach . This small stream is responsible for the broad 25km-long Gutach Valley, famous for its Bollenhut , a black hat with red pompoms worn as a traditional folk costume by women and reproduced in tourist literature throughout the region. Close to the head of the valley lies Triberg , the Black Forest’s most touristy town, packed with cuckoo-clock shops and coach parties and probably worth avoiding unless you’re after a chirping time-piece – in which case you’ll certainly want to visit the good, nearby clock museum at Furtwangen too.

The Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum

Just over 1km south of the Gutach’s confluence with the Kinzig lies the Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum , an open-air museum focused on an old farm – the Vogtsbauernhof – that has been here since 1570. Its huge roof is typical of the local traditional building style and the sort of place that caused Jerome K. Jerome to comment: “The great charm about a Black Forest house is its sociability: the cows are in the next room, the horses are upstairs, the geese and ducks in the kitchen, while the pigs, children and chickens live all over the place.”

The 26 other buildings in the complex – which include a sawmill, granary, bakery, distillery, smithy and chapel – have been moved here from elsewhere to create a rather phoney little village. But great effort has gone into authentically furnishing them all and costumed guides doing craft demonstrations help bring the place alive and broaden the appeal.

From where it meets the Kinzig Valley, the Gutach Valley progressively narrows then climbs to a point some 1000m above sea level after 20km, where the air is so pure it once made the town of TRIBERG a health resort. But this was long ago, and today the town is obsessed with only one thing: the cuckoo clock. Thousands are on sale here and the tourist traffic the industry spawns can be nightmarish; but if you embrace the kitsch and are in the market for a clock, it can be fun.

The long, thin Marktplatz that follows the main road through town is its natural focus, with a large pilgrimage church, or Wallfahrtskirche, looming over it decked out in florid Baroque. But the busiest end of town is uphill from here at a bend in the main road, where clock shops are squeezed together. They’re an attraction in themselves (see The cuckoo clock), and certainly as well visited as the town’s two other main attractions nearby.

Though plenty of small towns and villages dot the Northern Black Forest, most are of little specific interest, though Bad Wildbad does offer an alternative spa town to Baden-Baden. Instead this region is best known for its scenic drives, including the Badische Weinstrasse , which travels through the strip of vineyards that line the Rhine Valley and is home to Europa-Park , Germany’s largest amusement-park. Just east, above the valley, another waymarked drive, the Schwarzwaldhochstrasse is considered the classic scenic drive in the Black Forest.

Europa-Park

Though not that well-known beyond Germany’s borders, the Europa-Park is one of Europe’s premier theme-parks and a sure-fire kid-pleaser, with about fifty rides in an area around the size of eighty football pitches and set amid a number of villages themed by European country. Located 35km north of Frieburg near the village of Rust, it’s particularly convenient for drivers heading between Strasbourg or Karlsruhe and the Swiss Alps.

The Badische Weinstrasse

The Badische Weinstrasse (Badische Wine Road), a 160km-long waymarked route that winds through the foothills of the Black Forest, cuts through vineyards and past ruined castles on its way from Baden-Baden to Freiburg. It’s an attractive alternative to the motorway corridor along the Rhine Valley for north- or south-bound travellers with time on their hands, and particularly those with an interest in sampling and buying fine wines.

The tiny town of Durbach , some 50km south of Baden-Baden along the Badische Weinstrasse , amid rolling vineyards and overlooked by the impressive Schloss Staufenberg , is a perfect stop and of particular interest to wine lovers for its excellent Durbacher Winzergenossenschaft (wine co-operative; Mon–Fri 8am–noon, Sat 9am–12.30pm), a shop with a great selection of distinguished and well-priced local wines that’s liberal with its samples. It’s signposted and just off the main road at the centre of Durbach.

The Schwarzwaldhochstrasse

There are various routes from Baden-Baden into the heart of the Black Forest, but the most attractive is probably the magnificent Schwarzwaldhochstrasse – the Black Forest Highway or B500 – which climbs from Baden-Baden through an idyllic combination of pines and meadows, valleys and peaks to Freudenstadt. The route may only be 60km long but it’s worth taking about half a day over the drive, allowing for time to break the journey at the various car parks, viewpoints and belvederes which dot the route to take in fine views of the Upper Rhine Valley and France’s Vosges. Allow time too for a couple of short worthwhile hikes, particularly the easy 1.5km loop around the touristy but pretty Mummelsee and a hike from the Allerheiligen monastery – signposted off the B500 6km to the south. From this impressive ruin of a Gothic Premonstratensian abbey, signs point along a path to an attractive waterfall a twenty-minute walk south.

South of Freiburg the Southern Black Forest gradually rises into a series of rounded and densely forested mountains that begins with the Schauinsland peak and includes the ski resorts of Todtnau and the Feldberg , the highest peak in the area. Only smaller settlements dot their slopes or huddle at the valley bottoms. The more densely wooded hills just south of here are also thinly populated, with the modest lakeside resort towns of Titisee , Schluchsee and small spa resort of St Blasien among the few exceptions. To the east of the area on the fringes of the Black Forest lies the Wutachschlucht , a deep overgrown gorge that’s popular for hiking; while to the west, where the land flattens around the Rhine and the French border, the prim spa-town of Badenweiler is a draw, as is the idyllic cluster of vineyard-draped hills called the Kaiserstuhl , sticking out in what’s an otherwise clear run up to the impressive Vosges mountains on the horizon.

At 1493m the Feldberg is the Black Forest’s highest summit, but it’s hardly a soaring peak. Instead its huge bulk rears into a bald, rather flat, treeless dome. Nevertheless, the area is protected as a nature reserve where wild flowers flourish as do unusual fauna like mountain hens and goat-like chamois. The scattered presence of traditional Black Forest farmhouses and the occasional alpine hut add to the charm. But most villages in the area exist to provide for the major regional downhill-skiing centre . The most convenient is the slope-side village of FELDBERG , little more than a group of roadside houses on a 1234m-high pass, but given its general lack of services and nightlife you might prefer to stay in the more well-rounded village of Altglashütten, in the valley 8km away.

Haus der Natur

In summer the main focus on the Feldberg is on the Haus der Natur visitor centre, which has various displays on natural history in German and is the start point for various hikes including the Feldberg-Steig , a highly recommended 12km loop that links five alpine huts around the upper reaches of the Feldberg. Much of it passes over open ground, offering open vistas which many other Black Forest hikes lack. In winter a good portion of this and other local trails form popular cross-country skiing routes.

Feldbergbahn

A short walk from the Haus der Natur lies the Feldbergbahn which, in winter, is part of a network of 28 ski lifts and covered by a day-pass. In summer it offers the chance of great views over the Alps without any legwork.

The Wutachschlucht

On the southeastern fringes of the Black Forest and hidden from view in the rolling landscape of farms and pastures lies the 33km-long Wutachschlucht , a deep gorge that’s been fed and shaped by the waters of the Titisee. The thickly forested and overgrown chasm with its stretches of craggy cliffs, churning waters and unspoilt, ancient forests has become a popular hike. Given that the walk is too long to do in a day, local buses operate to pick up and drop off hikers along the gorge route for a flat rate of €3 per day.

Several communities act as gateways to the valley, with the most practical being Löffingen – which is on the railway network (from Freiburg hourly; 1hr) – to the north of the Wutachschlucht and Bonndorf – an easy bus ride from Schluchsee – to the south. A popular quick taster of the canyon landscape is the feeder valley of the Lotenbachklamm, along which an easy and attractive hour-long, round-trip walk runs to the Schattenmühle , an old watermill and inn in the Wutach Valley. The Shattenmühle is also the ideal place to start a hike of the most stunning stretch of the Wutachschlucht. Take bus #7259 from Löffingen or #7344 from Bonndorf, to the Schattenmühle , or park there, then walk five hours east along the gorge to Wutachmühle, and take bus #7344 back to the start (9am–6pm hourly; 25min) or to Bonndorf.

The quiet little mountain town of TODTNAU , 32km southeast of Freiburg and 25km beyond the Schauinslandbahn, bustles with activity in winter when it becomes a gateway to a network of ski lifts around the Feldberg.

A ski lift up the Hasenhorn carries toboggans in winter and continues to attract a steady trickle of visitors in summer thanks to the presence of a 2.9km roller-coaster-cum-bobsleigh track and a couple of excellent downhill mountain-bike trails aimed at experienced riders who can buy or rent any equipment they need at the base-station shop.

Aside from skiing, Todtnau’s other great draw is a 97m-tall waterfall that cascades over several craggy rocks on the opposite (northern) side of the valley. To get there from town hike the signposted 2km trail from the church at the centre of Todtnau, or simply follow the much shorter trail from the car park on the hairpin of the L126 en route to Freiburg and Kirchzarten. The falls freeze in the winter to magical effect, but beware the slippery trails.

The origins of the cuckoo clock are uncertain. Though the first known description comes from Saxony in the mid-sixteenth century, it’s thought they were probably first made in Bohemia. Certainly it was only about a hundred years later – in the 1730s – that cuckoo clocks began to be made in the Black Forest, with Schönwald near Triberg being the site of the earliest workshops.

The quality of the craftsmanship and engineering quickly captured the imagination and the European market, and the cuckoo clock has roosted here ever since. Local shops sell a bewildering array, but as the over-eager shop assistants will inform you, it all boils down to three designs – the chalet , the hunting theme and the simple carved cuckoo . The technology in each is much the same, clocks with small pine cones dangling below them require daily winding while those with larger cones need only weekly attention.

There’s more labour-saving on hand, thanks to the digital revolution which hasn’t been allowed to bypass this traditional craft: some models are battery- and quartz-driven, and play recordings of an actual cuckoo on the hour; others are even light sensitive so both you and the bird can get some sleep. Prices vary according to the size of the clock. Good-sized clocks can be bought for under €100, but for a real talking-piece you’ll need to pay almost twice that – and some creations fetch thousands. The choice is overwhelming, competition keen and almost all shops offer shipping services. See also the Deutsches Uhrenmuseum.

One shop you might want to visit Uhren-Park (Schonachbach 27; uhren-park.de) on the main road 2.7km south of Triberg, which charges a €1.50 fee to see what it claims is the largest cuckoo clock in the world – though there’s a rival claimant on the other side of town. Easter to Oct Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; Nov to Easter Mon–Sat 9am–5.30pm, Sun 11am–5pm.

Top image: The Black Forest, Schwarzwald, Germany © Funny Solution Studio/Shutterstock

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The Black Forest

As deep, dark and delicious as its famous cherry gateau, the Black Forest gets its name from its canopy of evergreens. With deeply carved valleys, thick woodlands, luscious meadows, stout timber farmhouses and wispy waterfalls, it looks freshly minted for a kids' bedtime story. Wandering on its many miles of forest trails, you half expect to bump into a wicked witch or huntsman, and might kick yourself for not bringing those breadcrumbs to retrace your tracks…

Attractions

Must-see attractions.

Freiburger Münster

With its lacy spires, cheeky gargoyles and intricate entrance portal, Freiburg’s 11th-century minster cuts an impressive figure above the central market…

Vogtsbauernhof

The Schwarzwälder Freilichtmuseum spirals around the Vogtsbauernhof, a self-contained early-17th-century farmstead. Farmhouses shifted from their original…

From the baroque-meets-neoclassical Schloss, Karlsruhe’s 32 streets radiate like the spokes of a wheel. Karl Wilhelm, margrave of Baden-Durlach, named his…

Museum Frieder Burda

Baden-Baden

A Joan Miró sculpture guards the front of this architecturally innovative gallery, designed by Richard Meier. The star-studded collection of modern and…

Embracing the global craft gin craze, Monkey 47 has scooped awards for its batch-distilled, handcrafted dry gin, with piney, peppery notes. Distillery…

Sticking out above Rottweil like a sore thumb, the futuristic, environmentally progressive Testturm is the brainchild of steel-engineering giant…

Triberger Wasserfälle

Niagara they ain’t but Germany’s highest waterfalls do exude their own wild romanticism. The Gutach River feeds the seven-tiered falls, which drop a total…

Nationalpark Schwarzwald

Schwarzwaldhochstrasse

An outdoor wonderland of heather-speckled moors, glacial cirque lakes, deep valleys, mountains and near-untouched coniferous forest, the Black Forest…

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Dec 5, 2019 • 2 min read

A gargantuan indoor-outdoor combination water park - the size of five football fields - has opened in Germany's Black Forest.

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Guest-Cards & KONUS

In the Black Forest we offer our guests numerous different discounts and opportunities to better experience the Black Forest.

KONUS Bus ein roter Bus fährt durch eine typische Schwarzwaldlandschaft mit Bauernhaus, Bäumen und Wiesen  ·  © Mesenholl/Quint

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Arrive and take the bus and train, free of charge, for a hike, discovery tour, or shopping spree… this is what the unique KONUS guest card is for. It is valid as a free ticket for buses and trains in the Black Forest holiday region, from Pforzheim to Basel, Karlsruhe to Waldshut, over nine transport associations - as often as you like during your holiday and completely free of charge! No one need worry about fares and tickets.

SchwarzwaldCard

The SchwarzwaldCard is your personal key to experiencing the diversity of the Black Forest. The card gives you free admission to over 200 adventure attractions. The card entitles you to one free admission to the SchwarzwaldCard attractions on three freely selectable days within one year. With our bonus  partners , you can also visit the attractions once outside of these three days.

Schwarzwald Plus

Outdoor and nature experiences, mountain railways, culinary tours and themed hikes, castles, museums and cultural highlights, regional specialities from wine and ham to cherry torte.

Baiersbronn & Freudenstadt

DreiWeltenCard (Three World Card)

Relax in the Solemar thermal baths in Bad Dürrheim, marvel at the new Smilestones miniature world at the Rhine Falls, or take in the nostalgia on a ride on the Sauschwänzlebahn railway from Blumberg.

Bad Dürrheim

Hochschwarzwald  Card (Red Card)

Treat yourself and your family and enjoy more than 100 attractions in our region, mostly free of charge. Save money with the Hochschwarzwald Card and get 100% fun.

Black Forest Highlands

3 Days WelcomeCard

With the 3-day Welcome Card you can use all public transport in the RVF area. The combined ticket of the Regio-Verkehrsverbund Freiburg (Freiburg Regional Transport Association) is valid for all buses and trains for 3 days.

Schwarzwald Card 365

With the  Schwarzwald Card 365 you can enjoy all 190 participating attractions once within one year, according to your wishes and without time pressure. If you wish, you can also do this at Europa-Park.

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A Weekend Road Trip to the Black Forest

By Laura Giannatempo

The Black Forest is only a couple of hours southwest of Frankfurt by car, but it might as well be on a different planet. About an hour into the journey, the adrenaline rush of the Autobahn all but vanishes as you get on the smaller, two-lane road that meanders through a made-for-Instagram landscape of green valleys, brooding evergreen forests, and fairytale villages. Here, there are grand hotels with thermal baths and spas whose old-school elegance is a reminder that the Black Forest has been a destination of European élites for centuries. But perhaps the best-kept secret of this region is the food: As it happens, there are more three-Michelin-star restaurants within a 15-mile radius of the small Black Forest town of Baiersbronn (population: 15,000) than in Frankfurt and Berlin.

Getting there

The fastest way is from Frankfurt, whether you’re already there or not. At the airport, rent a car (a German performance car is worth the splurge to get the authentic Autobahn experience) and take the A5 toward Basel/Darmstadt. Then, take the Gaggenau exit to B462 and follow directions to Baiersbronn, which will be your base. It’s about a two-hour drive.

Since you’re going at least in part for the food, don’t risk being turned away at the door because you don’t have a reservation. Tables fill up quickly, so try to book at a month out.

Friday Night and Saturday

To make the most of your trip, get out of town right after work and check in at the Traube Tonbach hotel, just outside of Baiersbronn. This isn’t the kind of place you go to be with the cool kids, but it’s perfect to pamper yourself—there’s an old-world vibe, grand staircases, chandeliers, and all. The hotel has five restaurants, a full-service spa, and more spring water pools than you’ll be able to dip into during your short stay. Try to get a room on the lower level across the main street, which has an updated design, then grab dinner at Köhlerstube . Don’t let the slightly kitschy alpine décor fool you: The menu is eclectic and modern, with dishes like smoked deer ham, celery, and pear (billed as “essence of deer”) and goose liver cannelloni with pineapple, passion fruit, and yogurt.

In the morning, check out the spa—but not before sipping an espresso on your room’s terrace or, better yet, jaunting to the main building for the (impressive) breakfast spread. Choose a treatment from the encyclopedic spa menu or decompress in the pools and saunas. The small heated pool on the lower level is quieter, with floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the valley; the adjacent sauna is the only one in the complex where you can wear a bathing suit (a concession made to foreign, particularly American, guests). Then, take the short walk uphill to Blockhütte , the hotel’s rustic mountain cabin restaurant—a great spot for freshly baked pretzels, handmade sausages, Knöpfle (the local spaetzle ), and other traditional German fare. If the weather’s good, snag a spot on the terrace, order a sloe gin and soda apéritif, and take it all in.

Speaking of gin, it’s worth driving about half an hour south to Lossburg to visit the craft distillery behind Monkey 47 Schwarzwald Dry Gin , a big favorite among bartenders on both sides of the Atlantic. Wildly aromatic and complex, Monkey 47 is made by infusing a jaw-dropping 47 botanicals—although the exact recipe is a secret, local lingonberries play a big role—and is distilled in a futuristic, custom-made copper machine that looks like it came from the set of Metropolis (call ahead to book a tour ). If visiting a storybook castle is also on your list, keep driving east for another 30 miles to the implausibly photogenic hilltop castle of Hohenzollern. Take one of the guided tours (they get crowded) or explore on your own. There’s a pretty beer garden inside the castle that’s perfect for a German-style rest.

Finish the day back at the hotel’s three-Michelin-star restaurant, Schwarzwaldstube , which ignited Baiersbronn’s culinary revolution in 1977 when it picked up its first star. These days, chef Torsten Michel, the protégé of legendary chef Harald Wohlfahrt (who’s responsible for the third star), orchestrates refined menus of ethereal, intensely flavored dishes with influences from far beyond France and Germany—from coriander marinated tuna with shiitakes and ginger in a light wasabi foam to Brittany lobster escabeche. You can order à la carte or pick one of the tasting menus (including a vegetarian one). Either way, dinner at Schwarzwaldstube is an epic affair of memorable course after memorable course, but the finale might just, well, take the cake: Instead of one or two petit fours after dessert, the server wheels in an entire cart of them. Don’t be tempted to wave him away on account of being too full, or you’ll miss gems like ultra-tender Black Forest cherry macarons, basil and mango marshmallows, and gold-covered chocolate truffles with passion fruit flavor.

A (short) detour to Lossburg is worth it for a visit to Monkey 47.

Surrounded by conifer-shrouded hills that seem to contain all the shades of green, the hotel is an excellent starting point for a morning in the great outdoors. You can take one of a dozen or more hikes practically from your doorstep. The 60-mile Murgleiter trail connecting Baiersbronn to Gernsbach—one of the most beautiful hiking trails in Germany, according to the German Hiking Institute—is a bit of a commitment (although you don’t have to go the whole way). But even if you just walk along one of the small paths outside the hotel, it doesn’t take long before the thick fir trees start filtering out the sunlight and you’re suddenly skipping across creeks in the middle of the woods—it feels remote, but you’re actually not that far from civilization. If hiking isn’t your thing, you can always opt for some poolside relaxation, although you may need that exercise to build an appetite for lunch.

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There’s no dearth of options. Drive about 20 minutes north to Schlossberg , where chef Jörg Sackmann composes tasting menus inspired by foraging in the local woods. It’s not uncommon to find wild mushrooms, wild thyme, or wild berries at his two-Michelin-star restaurant, where dishes feel like modern homages to the Black Forest's culinary soul. Or check out the other three-star restaurant of the area, Bareiss , inside the hotel by the same name, about a 15-minutes drive south west. Here, chef Claus-Peter Lumpp crafts artful plates using vegetables, fruits, and meats from the hotel’s farm, like fried milk-fed veal with grilled asparagus, chanterelles, and lovage (a very haute riff on Wiener Schnitzel ) or pinot-noir-and-juniper-marinated leg of roe deer with apple and celery salad.

On the way back to Frankfurt, you won’t regret a quick detour to the lovely spa town of Baden-Baden . With Belle Époque architecture, airy plazas, and a leafy riverside promenade, Baden-Baden is perfect for aimless afternoon strolling. Or you can (literally) immerse yourself in the city’s bath house culture. Spend the afternoon at the architecturally imposing Friedrichsbad with an all-nude, co-ed 16-step program that takes you from hot to cold baths to full body scrubs. If you’re not quite ready for the full German bath experience, visit the more relaxed Caracalla Therme and chill in its huge heated indoor/outdoor pool complete with whirlpools, a water current channel, and grotto waterfalls. Driving back to Frankfurt will feel more like floating.

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