Kiso Valley

kiso valley travel

The Kiso Valley (�ؑ]�H, Kisoji) is located in Nagano Prefecture , and runs alongside the mountains of the Central Alps. An ancient 70 km trade route called the Kisoji was developed along the valley and served as a very important means of commerce in the area.

The Kisoji became even more important from the beginning of the Edo Period , when it was amalgamated with other routes in the formation of the 500 km long Nakasendo. The Nakasendo ("path through mountains") was one of the two main routes that connected Edo and Kyoto . It contrasted with the other principal transportation route of the time, the Tokaido, which ran along the sea shore.

Because of restrictions by the shogunate , travelers were almost always forced to make their trips on foot. As a result, "post towns" developed every few kilometers to provide travelers with places to rest, eat and find nightly accommodation during their arduous journey.

Along the Kiso Valley, a few post towns, particularly Magome , Tsumago and Narai , have been preserved to look as they did when they served travelers of the Nakasendo. Visitors are able to enjoy the stone paths and wooden buildings of a bygone era.

Top attractions in Kiso Valley

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Tsumago ••

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Nakasendo Hiking •

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Magome •

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Narai •

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Chiune Sugihara Memorial Hall

Getting there and around.

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NAGANO Kiso Valley Walk untouched rural Japan

  • NEAR KISO VALLEY
  • Destinations
  • Kiso Valley

Walk untouched rural Japan

  • The beautifully preserved Nakasendo post towns of Magome, Tsumago, and Narai
  • Sipping sake in Kiso Fukushima
  • Mt Ontake's sacred waterfalls in remote Otaki Village
  • Getting up close to Kiso's gorgeous lakes and rivers

How to Get There

The Shinano Express runs the full length of the Kiso Valley, connecting the area to the rest of Japan. The views from the train give a tantalizing taste of what's in store.

kiso valley travel

Quick Facts

The Kiso Valley is bordered by the Central Alps to the east and Mt Ontake to the west

The wooden products you find for sale around Kiso are made from top quality hinoki cypress; prized by emperors, it will last for centuries

The Ontake faith is a blend of Shinto, esoteric Buddhism, and ancient shamanic practices

At 3,067 meters, Mt Ontake is Japan's second highest volcano after Mt Fuji

kiso valley travel

Hike the Nakasendo trail for a taste of old Japan

kiso valley travel

Frozen in time

In the northern part of the valley, the town of Narai is remarkably well preserved. It's larger than other towns in the area, with the main street stretching over a kilometer. It is best in the evening, when the old buildings are lit with glowing lanterns.

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Explore Kiso Fukushima, the halfway point on the Nakasendo

Kiso's largest town is a relaxed community on the Kiso River. Formerly, it functioned as one of the checkpoints along the Nakasendo, used by the Tokugawa Shoguns in Edo to keep tight control over the movement of people, goods, and especially, guns. Today, Kiso Fukushima is a delightful town to wander around, with houses huddled above the Kiso River, several well-preserved neighborhoods, and souvenir shops.

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Follow the pilgrim's way

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Kiso's spectacular waterways

The Kiso Valley has a seemingly endless flow of incredibly pure water. Depending on lighting and other factors, its lakes, rivers, and streams vary from crystal clear to turquoise to emerald green.

Plenty of water-based activities are available throughout Kiso. Go fishing in the hills and catch Japanese trout, known as iwana. Then, find the perfect cove for a barbeque beside the turquoise waters that flow through the Atera Ravine.

Kayak along Lake Ontake

To see more of the area, get out on the water and try kayaking on Lake Ontake for spectacular volcano views. Kayaking Lake Shizenko in Otaki Village will take you through a remote canyon towering above as you paddle along. Rafting on the Kiso River is another option for a day out on Kiso's waterways.

kiso valley travel

* The information on this page may be subject to change due to COVID-19.

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Japan Travel Tips & Hidden Gems

The Ultimate Kiso Valley Guide | Exploring this Hidden Gem

Donny Kimball

  • June 9, 2017
  • Area Guides

An epic view of the Kiso Valley from Gifu Prefecture’s town of Magome-juku

Today’s article is the next installment in my area guide series where I go into great detail on a specific spot. This will be a VERY long post but not without good reason! We’ll be going far off the beaten path to follow in the footsteps of a trade route that ironically very much WAS the beaten path for almost three hundred years. Known as the Nakasendo , this trail wound through the mountains and connected Kyoto with the capital in Edo (modern day Tokyo). In addition to the Tokaido route which followed along the coast, these two twin highways facilitated interconnectivity during the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate, a.k.a the Edo period (1603–1868).

While the coastal Tokaido has largely been lost to urban sprawl, the path can still be followed today — albeit at over 300 km/h on the bullet train. The less popular Nakasendo on the other hand has many sections that have been well preserved. Nowhere is this more true than in the remote Kiso Valley. Nestled between imposing mountain cliffs, these lowlands are home to a handful of towns that have come together to preserve their history. In days gone by these hamlets were known as juku or post towns and served as overnight spots for weary travelers.

Chief among the post towns in the Kiso Valley are the towns of Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku. These neighboring communities have put considerable effort into defending the authenticity of the role they served on the Nakasendo. Additionally, the towns are connected by a 7.8 km stretch of the Nakasendo that can still be hiked today. Because of this, I cannot honestly think of a better spot in all of Japan to experience what life would have been like as a merchant or samurai under the rule of the Tokugawas.

Before we continue though, a quick warning! This adventure should not be attempted by either first timers to Japan or the faint of heart. The Kiso Valley is located far away from the inner city which means public transportation is pretty sparse. Furthermore, you’re going to be doing A LOT of walking so have a honest conversation with yourself regarding whether or not you’re up for the physical challenge before making the commitment.

That said however, these hardships only contribute to the genuine sense of place criss-crossing the Kiso Valley. We’ll only be covering a fraction of the whole Nakasendo yet you can imagine what it would have been like to traverse this trade route hundreds of years ago on foot. If you’re an outdoorsy type, I can not more highly recommend this spot! The following suggestions will help you avoid any potential concerns.

How to Get There

Gifu Prefecture’s Nakatsugawa Station, the entry to the Kiso Valley

As mentioned, the Kiso Valley is located a fair bit away from major cities. The easiest way to get there is via Nagoya which likely means you’re going to have to take the bullet train. Once there you’ll need to transfer to a rapid train bound for Nakatsugawa so keep your eyes peeled for the Chuo Line. The trains aren’t all that difficult but be sure to check with Jorudan or a similar service first to make sure of connecting times, especially for the Chuo Line.

If you’d like to stretch your legs after the bullet train leg of your trip, I highly suggest hitting up Atsuta Jingu en route. The shrine is mere minutes from Nagoya Station by train but is said to house the Kusanagi-no-Tsurugi that is often hailed as Japan’s Excalibur. You can even catch the Chuo Line from neighboring Kanayama Station making this a simple but satisfying add-on to the Kiso Valley.

I recommend you get an early start as the entire trek can easily take up to three to four hours depending on the trains (longer if you visit Atsuta Jingu). You’ll need to overnight in the Kiso Valley and it’s always wise to get to the nearest station when the sun is up and the shops are open. Be mindful of trying to find your way around in the dark. Remember, this isn’t central Tokyo! You’ll need to be particularly prepared as there are few, if any, English speakers around to lend a helping hand.

Accommodations Options

A business hotel in the Kiso Valley

Before we dive in any further, let’s quickly talk about accommodations. There are a handful of traditional ryokan inns scattered about the Kiso Valley. I recommend avoiding these as they complicate the itinerary. While they do offer a more authentic Nakasendo experience, the added challenges are not worth it and especially so for foreign travelers. Instead, I suggest you grab yourself a cozy business hotel in the immediate vicinity of Nakatsugawa Station. The reason why will become apparent later on; trust me on this one…

If you absolutely MUST stay at a ryokan, you can reserve one here but be prepared for a logistical nightmare!

My Proposed Itinerary

A building in front of Nakatsugawa Station in the Kiso Valley

You will want to get the most out of your time while visiting the Kiso Valley. With that said, I suggest you follow this schedule as closely as possible. The area’s remote location means that you’re limited by public transportation. Unless you plan on making this a two-night stay, you’re not going to have a lot of wiggle room so do yourself a favor and stick to the timetable below!

I’ll walk you through the details of this itinerary in the following sections but for now, take a look at the following…

Kiso Valley Day 1

  • Arrive in Nakatsugawa Around 3:00 PM
  • Check into Hotel and Deposit Luggage
  • Explore the Nakatsugawa Post Town
  • Visit the Naegi Castle Ruins (Optional)
  • Dinner & Early to Bed

Kiso Valley Day 2

  • Take the Bus to Magome-juku round 8:00 AM
  • Explore Magome-juku until 11:00 AM
  • Begin Nakasendo Hike to Tsumago-juku
  • Arrive in Tsumago-juku by 2:00 PM
  • Explore Tsumago-juku until 5:00 PM
  • Taxi to Nagiso Station
  • Return to Nagoya Station

This schedule will give you more than enough time to leisurely explore each area while allowing for the smoothest use of public transportation. If you do intend to break with the plan above, be sure to consult the bus schedules ! You don’t want to get stuck out here and taxis are both expensive and difficult to hail!

Day One: Nakatsugawa

The Kiso Valley’s Nakatsugawa-juku in Gifu Prefecture

As mentioned, we’ll be overnighting on Day One in Nakatsugawa. Much like Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, Nakatsugawa was once a post town on the Nakasendo. Nevertheless, the area has become rather developed for the region due to its position as the terminal station on JR’s Chuo Line. And thus, it does not allow for the same level of immersion. On the other hand, the area is doing a lot to preserve what remains so it’s worth a quick peek if you have the time.

After arriving in Nakatsugawa, the very first thing you want to do is pick up copies of the pamphlets lining the left hand side as you exit the station. The tourism office has done a splendid job of documenting and translating many of the little tidbits of local history. Suffice to say, this document does a far better job of telling the town’s story than I can so refer to it while meandering around.

The Naegi Castle Ruins in the Kiso Valley

One location I do suggest you check out is the Naegi Castle Ruins. The grounds are about a 50 minute walk from the station so it’s a lot easier to take a taxi but the view is more than worth the fare. Along with another former fortress in Hyogo Prefecture, the Naegi Castle Ruins are often referred to as the “Machu Picchu of the East.” You’ll find them located 432 meters above sea level atop Mt. Takamori. As seen below, the fortress’ ruins offer a commanding view of the Nakasendo passing through the Kiso valley.

Note: Since my initial visiting, it seems that there’s now a bus that goes all the way up to the Naegi Castle Ruins from Nakatsugawa Station. Since I’ve yet to take it myself, I cannot comment how easy this is but try inquiring if you don’t want to walk!

The view from the top of the Kiso Valley’s Naegi Castle Ruins

The Naegi Castle Ruins make one realize just how strategically important this fortress must have been. Though it’s a bit out of the way, if you have the time I highly recommend you make an effort to visit. Once you’re done checking out the area, you’re probably going to want to turn in for the night.

Unfortunately, for you night owls out there, there’s not much to do in the area once the sun goes down save for having a few brews outside the only 7-Eleven in town. Of course there are also some local snack bars but you would be wise to avoid these. Don’t say I didn’t warn you…

Day Two: Heading Out

The bus station area in front of Nakatsugawa Station in the Kiso Valley

Given that your movements will be largely limited by the sporadic nature of countryside public transportation, you are going to want to get as early a start as possible. The first bus to Magome-juku from Nakatsugawa is a little before or after 8 AM depending on whether or not it’s a weekend. Be sure to check the bus schedule to see exact timings. Regardless though, to ensure you have enough time, you’re going to want to make sure that you’re on this bus. Taxis are few and far between and the last thing you want is to have to hoof it an extra 5–10 km to the nearest station!

Coin lockers at Nakatsugawa Station in the Kiso Valley

Adventurers with luggage will want to use one of the coin lockers pictured above for sure. You’ll find these on the right side of the station near the spot for hailing taxis. Keep in mind, should your baggage not fit, you’re going to have a problem. One option is to ask the front desk staff at your hotel if you can leave your bags with them after checking out. Alternatively, you could overnight your larger bag in Nagoya at one of the bigger coin lockers and then take along a smaller bag. Either way, you’re not going to want to bring it with you on this trek!

Once you have rid yourself of any unnecessary items, proceed over to the bus stop. There are four lanes and you’re going to want to keep an eye out for the one marked Magome-juku. This will be our first stop for the day and it’s located about 30 minutes up into the mountains form Nakatsugawa. While you CAN make the journey on foot by following the Nakasendo, I advise holding off for the segment between Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku.

Day Two: Magome

Old buildings at the Kiso Valley’s town of Magome-juku

Magome-juku sits high up in the hills of the Kiso Valley where the Nakasendo crosses over into the lower Nakatsugawa area. You can probably guess from the photo that the view from here is absolutely stunning and almost worth the trip itself. It’s easy to imagine how impressive this must have been hundreds of years ago when traversing the Nakasendo on foot. I mean, is it any surprise there are entire series of ukiyo-e woodblock prints dedicated to this historic trade route?

As with most Nakasendo post towns, Magome-juku’s buildings are oriented on either side of the the trail. You can either go forward or backward which makes it next to impossible to get lost. Despite the relatively straightforward nature of these towns though, you should make a point to take your time and appreciate Magome-juku’s unique architecture. The locals have gone to great lengths to recreate the ambiance of the Edo period (1603–1868) and it would behoove you to enjoy it to the fullest.

A coffee shop at the Kiso Valley town of Magome-juku

That said, the early call (coupled with possible jet lag) will certainly have some readers feeling groggy. Luckily for you there’s a gourmet coffee shop called Hillbilly Coffee waiting for you just a few minutes trek from your bus stop. If you’re at all like me and need your caffeine fix, I suggest you put your suspicions aside and stop asking, “What the hell is a place with that name doing here?” Go ahead and just order up a good ol’ cup of joe. Their coffee is surprisingly delicious and will deliver the kick you need.

A historical museum in the Kiso Valley town of Magome-juku

The two things you want to keep an eye out for in Magome-juku (and any post town) are the honjin and waki-honji. These structures functioned as inns along the Nakasendo with the former serving only top warlords and their officials while the later was available for the rest of their entourage. Though reconstructions, both of Magome-juku’s facilities today have been transformed into museums. The honjin is dedicated to a literary figure that will only likely be relevant to Japanese; the waki-honji is home to a museum featuring the town’s legacy (pictured above).

Other than these two buildings, there is little else in Magome-juku that ranks a MUST see. As I alluded to before, a leisurely stroll amongst the meticulously recreated landscape serves as the charm for this segment of the Nakasendo. Yet, please by all means do take your time checking out all the little shops and eateries. These venues capture an authentic sense of what it would have been like to travel this route hundreds of years ago.

A historical sign board in the Kiso Valley town of Magome-juku

After spending some time in Magome-juku and stocking up on any needed snacks for the road, head up the hill towards the message board pictured above. Standing at the entrance to the Magome-juku post town, this served as a primitive form of the modern newspaper during the Edo period (1603–1868) and displayed important edicts from the Tokugawa shogunate. Given that the entire village is centered around the Nakasendo, it’s almost impossible to get lost but here’s a map in case.

A rest area somewhere in the middle of the Kiso Valley’s Magome-juku

The 8 km trail to Tsumago-juku picks up just beyond the message board. While there are buses that service the next post town, I highly suggest — no I outright demand that as a reader of this blog, you make the journey on foot. Doing so will result in a far more immersive experience and will allow you to sample the challenges of travel during a long-ago era.

That said, you might want to backtrack to the small rest center that is pictured above before heading out. There you will find power outlets for a quick recharge as well as free Wi-Fi for tourists. Take a minute to send any last messages as you’ll likely have no service for much of the next several hours!

Day Two: The Nakasendo

A sign pointing the way along the Nakasendo

Though only around 8 km away, Tsumago-juku can often feel as far away as Tokyo at times. At the start, you’re going to have to make your make your way up hill for some time. Lucky for you, Magome-juku sits higher in the mountain range meaning the vast majority of the hike will be downhill. You will further realize this luck yourself when actually hiking the path. One of the major reasons I suggest staying in Nakatsugawa is that it better facilitates this Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku route. In other words, unless you’re a seasoned outdoorsman, be sure to heed my advice!

The Nakasendo winds along the wooded hillside passing a handful of small hamlets and local shrines. While putting one foot in front of the other, try to envision what it would have been like to traverse these mountains on foot during the Edo period (1603–1868). Once you hit your stride, the consistency of your steps should give way to what could almost be described as a meditative state that is interrupted only by the greetings of fellow travelers on the path.

A bell in the Kiso Valley to scare away bears

Lions and tigers and bears, oh my! En route, you’ll occasionally encounter some brass bells on the side of the trail that seem out of place. Local legend holds these bells scare away the bears who have inhabited these hills for thousands of years. While I am of the opinion that this will bearly (get it?) help should an actual one appear, I witnessed several Japanese hikers ring aloud every bell they passed. Despite my skepticism, it might be wise to follow suit unless you want to end up in Yogi’s picnic basket!

Anyway, back to the Nakasendo. After about 20–30 minutes you’ll reach the highest point for this segment of the trail. Thankfully, from here on out, it’s all downhill but you will need to watch your step as the path becomes a bit more rugged. The last thing you need to do is hurt yourself way out here! Minding your footsteps, continue down the trail as it snakes around the tall trees lining either side of the Nakasendo. This area was one of my favorite parts of the hike as the surroundings are likely identical to what one would have experienced during the Edo period (1603–1868).

A tea house along the Nakasendo in between the Kiso Valley towns of Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku

After an hour or so of walking you’ll eventually stumble upon the rest-hut pictured above. Inside, you’ll find an old man and his (overly) friendly assistant who will offer you a free and well earned cup of tea. From what I can gather, the old man and his ancestors have been tending to this house for years and offer assistance to many a traveler along the Nakasendo. If you’re lucky, you may even get to hear the elder recite an ancient song that has serenaded countless wayfarers.

A sign post on the Nakasendo pointing the way to Tsumago-juku

Once you’ve recovered and had your fill of Kiso Valley hospitality, it’s time to hit the road again. Return to the path and keep making your ways towards Tsumago-juku. While I am not sure precisely when and where, but at some point along this stretch you’ll pass the halfway point (not marked) and before you know it, you’ll be seeing hints and signs like the one above.

An old building in the Kiso Valley portion of the Nakasendo

Soon thereafter, you’re going to reach a few points where the Nakasendo intersects with the highway. The local government typically stations staff at these junctions to ensure a safe crossing. Anyway, once you see the hovel picture above, you’re going to want to make your way down the stairs to the right. It can seem tricky and should you lose your way just ask the local representative for directions; even I made a mistake here (hard to imagine, I know).

A waterfall near Tsumago-juku along the Kiso Valley portion of the Nakasendo

After reaching the bottom of the staircase, you’ll come across the Otaki-Mentaki waterfalls pictured above. Though enchanting still today, I couldn’t help but think that these falls likely served as pre-modern showers to overheated travelers during Japan’s humid summer months. If you are on the hunt for a good selfie locale, the falls provide a pretty picturesque background. Once done enjoying the falls, continue onward down the Nakasendo.

The Nakasendo trail as it leads towards the Kiso Valley town of Tsumago-juku

One thing for sure, you should keep an eye out for any placards lining the trail. These hint at some of the obscure historical tidbits that go a long way promoting an appreciation for the area’s legacy. You’ll find my favorite placard after the waterfall which provides some deep insights into the construction of the highway. Here, you will learn that the stones lining much of the Nakasendo were hauled up the mountainside by a horde of thankless cattle (most of the animal homages along the path belong to the horse).

From here on out, the trail passes through a series of hovels that seem to have been forgotten by time. As I wandered through these tiny mountainside communities, I couldn’t help but hear my mother’s voice inquiring about where the villagers did their grocery shopping. Honestly, I have no answer for her. These remote, mountainside hamlets are such a stark comparison to modern-day Tokyo. The thought really makes one think that there’s a good chance many of the residents’ roots originate from this area and date back well before the Nakasendo.

Near Tsumago-juku, the Nakasendo passes by a number of small Kiso Valley hamlets

Eventually these little settlements bleed into the back-end of Tsumago. It can be surprising how fast the post town can creep up on you but know that once you pass the bridge pictured above, you’re in the home stretch. After catching your breath, be sure to give yourself a pat on the back but never forget that this stretch was only ONE of SIXTY-NINE posts along the Nakasendo. Luckily for you however, you’ve earned the train ride back.

Day Two: Tsumago

Tsumago-juku, a town in the Kiso Valley along the Nakasendo

After arriving in Tsumago I suggest you catch your breath and then make a beeline straight for the shogunate’s notice board pictured above. This location marks the far end of the town and given that you’re entering from the backside of Tsumago, you’re going to want to get your bearings. A visual point of reference is a most welcoming cue. Your legs will no doubt protest more walking but it’s worth it to power on through. At most, the distance requires a five minute jaunt and you’ll have a chance to rest and grab a some food soon after!

Gohei mochi and soba, local favorites in the Kiso Valley

Once you’ve reached the notice board, it’s time to find a place to eat. I suggest you do an immediate about face and look for a soba noodle shop that will be located a minute or so back on the right. While there are a lot of options around Tsumago to grab a much needed bite, this one gets my recommendation. You’re likely in desperate need of some glucose after the walk so go ahead and order the soba noodles & gohei mochi pictured above. The later is the meibutsu (local favorite) of this area and has for centuries provided the calories needed to walk the Nakasendo.

With food in belly, it’s time to hit the town! Like Magome-juku, the real charm of Tsumago lies in the locals’ thorough reproduction of the Nakasendo post town. If you’re following the itinerary that I’ve planned out, you’ll have upwards of three hours to meander about the town. When compared with Magome-juku, I find Tsumago-juku to be the better of the two post towns. That said, Tsumago-juku’s lower location in the mountain range means it lacks Magome-juku’s majestic views.

A heart in one of the old buildings in the Kiso Valley town of Tsumago-juku

In any case, you definitely want to check out the honjin and waki-honjin. The former is pictured above and is a reconstruction based on original blueprints from the town’s archive. Completed in the 1990’s, great efforts have been made to ensure that the honjin retains the look and feel of its medieval counterpart. There’s an entrance fee but if you pay a tad more (700 yen) you can purchase a combination ticket that allows entry to both the honjin and waki-honjin.

One of the former inns in Tsumago-juku for people traveling through the Kiso Valley

While the reproduction of the honjin is quite nice in its own right, the crowning jewel of Tsumago-juku is its original waki-honjin building. The structure dates back to the 19th century and unlike the honjin is entirely genuine. While inside, it’s easy to imagine how these inns were a much needed reprieve from the road for many a weary traveler. Because of this, I highly suggest you take your time exploring the interior of this building while pondering on the countless guests that have likely sought refuge under its roof.

Behind the waki-honjin, you’ll also find a small museum dedicated to the history of the Kiso Valley. Much of the museum has been thoroughly translated into English. If you are into the trivial details like me, the signage provides an informative context. For example, I discovered this area has survived for centuries without being able to cultivate white rice, a staple for Japan. While this fact makes perfect sense it remains a historical detail that can easily overlooked if you don’t pop in the museum.

Day Two: Return Home

Signs pointing towards the return bus from the Kiso Valley town of Tsumago-juku

While I’d encourage you to spend as much time in Tsumago-juku as you can, you’re still going to need to make your way back. Unless you’re planning on overnighting in Nagoya, this means you must make the final bullet train to your next metropolitan destination. Unlike the local trains, the bullet trains sometimes run surprisingly early so commit in advance to a 5:00 PM return time.

Although the last bus does depart around this time, it would behoove you to just pay for a taxi. If you’re in a group, it will amount to about the same anyway so heed my advice here. You’re going to need to make your way to Nagiso Station which is about a five to ten minute ride away. From there, you’ll be taking one of the infrequent trains back to Nakatsugawa to pick up your bag.

The final leg of the journey is pretty simple and involves taking the Chuo Line back to civilization where you’ll catch the bullet train from Nagoya Station. The return trip takes about ninety minutes so be sure to hit up the convenience store in the Nakatsugawa for some more needed calories. As you wait for train, try to be thankful for modern-day transportation and the fact that you don’t have to walk the rest of the way.

Until next time travelers…

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Donny Kimball

Donny Kimball

I'm a travel writer and freelance digital marketer who blogs about the sides of Japan that you can't find in the mainstream media.

kiso valley travel

Boutique Japan

Hiking the Historic Nakasendo Trail: 3 Days in the Kiso Valley

Winding through Japan’s central mountains, the 17th-century Nakasendo Trail leads travelers along ancient stone forest paths, through preserved Edo-era villages, and deep into the lost landscapes of feudal lords. 

The beauty of this trail lies in its changeability, moving from town thoroughfares on mountain slopes to winding dirt tracks amid dense forests. Historically connecting Kyoto and Tokyo, the Nakasendo is now one of Japan’s most renowned hiking routes. 

Instead of walking the full length of the original trail, many choose to complete smaller sections, particularly in the stunning Kiso Valley, with the beautifully preserved post towns of Magome and Tsumago among the highlights of a trek in this region.

While not impossible to squeeze in a half-day hike en route to or from Tokyo or Kyoto, we recommend spending at least one night at a post town on the trail as a fantastic way to experience rural Japan.

The walk from Magome to Tsumago can be accomplished in a single day, while hiking from Magome to Narai takes travelers on a three-day journey through the Kiso Valley on foot, which we’ve outlined in this guide.

History of the Nakasendo Trail

Over 330 miles (530 km) long, the Nakasendo Trail was first established in the 1600s as a trade route between Kyoto and Edo (modern-day Tokyo ) that passed inland through Nagano’s mountains. Its travelers ranged from monks and merchants to samurai, high-class lords, and even royal princesses, all of whom refueled, rested, and slept at the 69 shukuba (post towns) dotted along the route. 

While much of the original path has now been overlaid with modern roads, there are still remnants of Nakasendo’s first ishidatami (cobblestones) in the sloping woodlands between Magome and Tsumago. Both of these post towns still emulate their 17th-century appearance: low-roofed timber buildings, protruding balconies, and an absence of power lines all make you feel you’ve gone back in time. 

Nakasendo trail

Best Time to Hike the Nakasendo Trail

While it’s possible to hike the Nakasendo Way throughout the year, the trail is popular enough to be especially busy during peak travel seasons. However, if you happen to be visiting Japan during a holiday weekend or peak season , the Kiso Valley can still offer an escape from more crowded urban destinations.

Since you’ll be out in the elements, the seasonal weather can dramatically affect your experience of the trail. Spring (April/May) and fall (October/November) tend to offer the most pleasant climates, with limited rain and comfortable temperatures; whereas the summer months are hotter and more humid with a higher chance of rain and typhoons.

Winter on the Nakasendo can also be beautifully picturesque, but you’ll need to take extra care when packing your gear to ensure you’ll be warm enough and prepared for snow and sometimes ice. 

To get to grips with the Japanese seasons, see When Is the Best Time to Visit Japan .

Narai Juku Japan

Getting to the Nakasendo Trail

There are multiple possible starting points for the trail, with the most popular being the post towns of Magome and Narai in Nagano Prefecture. Magome and Narai lie at opposite ends of the most commonly hiked stretch of the Nakasendo, which can be hiked in either direction, and is easily accessed by train from Tokyo and Kyoto.

Starting in Magome

Magome is a beautiful place to begin your exploration of the Nakasendo Trail. This small, peaceful post town is known for its preserved Edo-era buildings and scenic views of the Kiso Valley. At an altitude of 1985 feet (600 meters), Magome’s mountainside location means travelers can acclimate here before starting to hike.

Traveling to Magome from Tokyo

If you’re traveling from Tokyo, take the shinkansen (bullet train) west to Nagoya Station – this journey takes approx. 1 hour 45 minutes. At Nagoya, you’ll transfer to the Limited Express train headed north to Nakatsugawa Station in the Kiso Valley (approx. 1 hour).

If you’re traveling with a lot of luggage, we suggest using Japan’s wonderful luggage-forwarding service to make your travel that much easier.

Looking for a day hike closer to Tokyo? See our guide to the best hikes near Tokyo . 

Traveling to Magome from Kyoto

From Kyoto, board the shinkansen to Nagoya Station, which takes about 35 minutes, then transfer to the Limited Express ‘Shinano’ train northwards to Nakatsugawa Station (approx 1 hour). On arrival, there are local buses that connect to Magome, around 25 minutes away. 

Starting in Narai

Once the official midway point of the entire Nakasendo Way, the post town of Narai has a wealthy past, still evident in the historic buildings lining its main street. Starting your hike here is a great way to transport yourself back in time amidst restored wooden houses and traditional details.

Traveling to Narai from Tokyo

From Tokyo, take the shinkansen to Nagoya Station, where you can catch the JR Shinano Express train to Kiso-Fukushima Station which takes 2.5 hours. From there, change to the local JR Chuo line to Narai Station (approx 20 mins). 

Traveling to Narai from Kyoto

If you’re coming from Kyoto, the above route is virtually the same. Take the shinkansen from Kyoto to Nagoya, then transfer to the Shinano Express train as far as Kiso-Fukushima Station. Transfer to the local train until you reach Narai Station. In total, the journey takes about three hours. 

For more information, see our guide to getting around Japan by train .

Azuma village Japan

Nakasendo Trail Itinerary: 3 Days Exploring Japan’s Countryside 

Hiking on the Nakasendo trail between Magome and Narai is a wonderful opportunity to swap urban exploration for serene and stunning countryside. Over just a few days you’ll discover rural mountain passes, peaceful forests, historic post towns, and the best of rural Japan on foot. 

The itinerary below is one we recommend to travelers who want to add a mix of nature, tradition, and active exploration to a longer Japan itinerary. If you have less time to spare, the first segment can be planned as a day hike, ideally with a night in Tsumago.

Day 1: Walk from Magome to Tsumago

Start your day in the beautifully preserved post town of Magome, nestled on a steep slope of the Kiso Valley in Gifu Prefecture. Today’s 9 km hike is approximately 3-4 hours and takes you along some of the most well-preserved parts of the Nakasendo Trail before eventually reaching the next post town of Tsumago.

Heading uphill through Magome, you’ll pass old-fashioned wooden establishments serving soba noodles, oyaki dumplings, and gohei mochi – three local specialties – before joining the winding trail up through the rural countryside. Make sure to turn around for some spectacular mountain views, and keep an eye out for the historic Tateba tea house and its weeping cherry tree just outside. 

Upon reaching the Magome-toge Pass at the top of the hill you can relax: the rest of your route today is steadily downhill. This section of the trail allows you to enjoy spots of forested shade, cross bridges over rocky creeks, and pause at the serene Odaki-Medaki waterfalls. 

When you arrive in Tsumago, you’ll notice just how well-preserved the town is. Tsumago is one of Japan’s most picturesque historical villages. Since the 1960s, local residents have been successfully restoring the Edo-era buildings to their traditional lattice-wood appearance, and taking their visitors back in time as a result. Make sure to visit the twice right-angled masugata street, designed to protect against potential invaders, and perhaps pick up a walk certificate like Edo-era tourists once did. 

Some visitors to Tsumago prefer to opt for an extra day to explore the town further, and there are many small inns in and around town.

bamboo forest near magome japan

Day 2: Hike From Tsumago to Nojiri & Train to Kiso-Fukushima

Enjoy a rural Japanese breakfast ahead of today’s 18 km hike which takes approximately 6 hours to reach Nojiri, much of which is uphill (on an incline). On the way, you’ll be a bit more off the beaten path and walking through scenery including tall bamboo groves and cedar forests connected by rural mountain paths and wooden foot bridges.

First up is the pleasant walk from Tsumago to the small town of Nagiso, home to the wooden Momosuke bridge built in the 1920s. This is a good place to pick up snacks and drinks for the day. Next, you’ll go uphill through forest and farmland, at times passing right through domestic back gardens while locals tend to their plants. 

Upon reaching the Yogawa road, terraced rice fields begin to appear, and soon you’ll enter mossy forests with plenty of bear bells to ring in case of approaching wildlife. At the Nenoue Pass, it’s a downhill trail until you reach Nojiri, then catch an onward train to Kiso-Fukushima (30 minutes), which is home to many lovely ryokans. Perhaps you’ll find time for a steaming onsen to soothe any aching muscles after a long day too. 

River alongside the Nakasendo trail

Day 3: Hike Over the Torii Pass to Narai-juku  

From Kiso-Fukushima, catch a quick train to Yabuhara Station, hike about 3 hours going up and over the Torii Pass, then continue downhill to Narai-juku village. If you’re super active and keen to tackle another activity before leaving Kiso-Fukushima, there’s also a moderately intensive circular hike to a local waterfall (2-3 hours) with an ascent of 2075 feet (632 meters) .

On arrival by local train in Yabahara, follow signs through the quiet town, heading up the mountain to the trailhead of the Torii Pass. This was considered the halfway point of the Nakasendo Road, and traveler documents were checked by feudal security, though nowadays it’s a beautifully ethereal spot. The Torii Gate is nestled among red cedar trees and ancient statues, and glimpses of the Kiso Valley can be viewed through the treetops. 

A well-maintained trail zigzags its way down toward Narai, another beautifully preserved village and your final destination for the day. Historically, Narai was the post town exactly midway between Edo and Kyoto, and was the trail’s richest community as a result. Often called ‘the town of a thousand houses’, Narai is a lovely place to explore; there are museums of folklore and artifacts, handcrafted ornaments and local lacquerware to buy, and historical buildings-turned-cafes to visit. 

Stop to marvel at the Kiso Bridge that crosses the Narai River: at 21 feet (6.5 meters), it’s one of Japan’s widest wooden bridges, built from ancient hinoki cypress trees.

Spend the evening at one of Narai’s many small inns, toasting to your successful exploration of the area on foot these past three days.

Japan countryside, vegetables on the porch

Nakasendo Trail Tips

Before setting off to hike Nakasendo, be sure to prepare to get the best out of your trip. Here are some tips to bear in mind:

Pack Light & Forward Your Luggage

Hilly trails and cobblestone pathways mean a good-fitting backpack rather than wheeled luggage is the best method for carrying your gear when hiking Nakasendo Trail. If you can live without your main suitcases during your time here, use Japan’s luggage forwarding services to skip your time on the Nakasendo altogether. 

Alternatively, there are tourist centers in both Magome and Tsumago that will forward your luggage between the towns for a small fee

Make sure to carry essentials in a day pack. These should include: 

  • High energy snacks 
  • Waterproof bag with medications and identification
  • Collapsible walking sticks 
  • Bag for carrying out trash

Wearing hiking boots or good closed-toe shoes is essential to help protect your feet and ankles. The cobblestones get extremely slippery in rainy weather, so make sure your chosen footwear has a sturdy grip. 

Don’t Count on Regular Wi-Fi

Due to the remoteness of parts of the trail, Wi-Fi may not be available at all post towns or accommodations, so it’s recommended to pre-download translation apps and any maps you might need. 

For your best chances of accessing the web while hiking, you can also rent a pocket Wi-Fi device . 

Book Ahead for Accommodations with Meals

Booking your accommodation ahead of time is wise, particularly as towns in the Kiso Valley have limited accommodation options, which often book up well in advance. Make sure to include dinner and breakfast with your reservations, as other dining options may be limited. 

Magome Japan

Where to Stay on the Nakasendo Road

There are beautiful places to stay along the Nakasendo Trail, with traditional ryokan inns and locally-run minshuku (guesthouses) in each post town. For the most part, your bedding and meals will be traditionally Japanese, perhaps with shared bathroom facilities too. 

As the Kiso Valley is renowned for its thermal hot springs, accommodations with private onsen are likely here. In your most likely destinations along the trail, consider these options for where to stay:

Accommodations in Magome

Many travelers begin in Magome and thus do not need a place to spend the night here. But if you’re ending your Nakasendo hike here, and don’t have time to continue onward to your next destination in Japan , consider one of Magome’s simple minshuku (guesthouses), such as the historic Tajimaya .

Accommodations in Tsumago

Most travelers spending one or more nights on the Nakasendo Road will spend a night in or near Tsumago, and it’s definitely worthwhile! 

The town is full of small, rustic but charming minshuku and simple ryokans . One popular inn for travelers is Fujioto, which is both traditional and tourist-friendly.

Accommodations in Kiso-Fukushima

Not all travelers will spend a night in this region, but if you’re hiking between Tsumago and Narai, this is a great area in which to rest your legs and soak in an onsen . There are a handful of very nice ryokans around here, including the simple but lovely Komanoyu among others.

Accommodations in Narai-juku

Narai is home to many cute and rustic minshuku , and also happens to boast one of the most luxurious properties to be found along the Nakasendo, Byaku Narai, a modern inn with traditional aesthetics that aims to preserve local architecture with a tasteful contemporary flair.

Looking for More Japanese Hiking Experiences? 

We hope we’ve inspired you to explore the Nakasendo Trail on foot, and that you’ll consider including some hiking in your custom itinerary!

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kiso valley travel

KISO VALLEY

Tsumago Juku

Deep in the mountains of Nagano prefecture lies the pristine Kiso Valley. This forested landscape is home to rushing waterfalls, ancient trees, snaking rivers and the towering Mount Ontake. Though remote, the area has a fascinating history belied by its sleepy country facade. People come from far and wide to walk the famous Nakasendo Trail , a well preserved ancient route connecting Tokyo and Kyoto. The once prosperous towns along this path have been restored so visitors can experience the unique Edo aesthetic. Easily reachable from Tokyo, Kyoto and Nagoya, the Kiso Valley makes for a perfect short getaway. With so much to see and do in the area, where do you begin? You can start by checking out the helpful articles below.

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Kiso Valley Guide

  • Published on : 24/06/2014
  • by : Japan Experience
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Kiso Valley: read a guide to the Kiso Valley in Nagano Prefecture famous for its beautiful, forested hills traversed by the historic Nakasendo Highway.

Kiso Valley Attractions

  • Hiking The Nakasendo in Kisoji

Kiso Valley Access

Nakasendo tours, kiso valley 木曽路.

The Kiso River runs 193 km south through Nagano Prefecture , Gifu Prefecture , Aichi Prefecture and Mie Prefecture before it meets the sea in Ise Bay (Ise-wan) near Nagoya .

Bear bell on the Nakasendo.

The area of the Kiso River between Minokamo in Gifu and Inuyama in Aichi has been called the "Japan Rhine" and pleasure boats once made the journey to see the rapids and impressive cliffs.

It is the upper part of the river valley in Gifu and Nagano prefectures that is the most visited. Known as the Kiso Valley (Kisoji) - a district famous for its hiking trails and picturesque towns and villages on the historic Edo Period Nakasendo highway between Kyoto and Edo ( Tokyo ).

High peaks in the Kiso Valley include Mt. Ontake (3,063m) and Mt. Komagatake (2,956m).

Narai-juku, Nakasendo, Nagano, Japan.

The Nakasendo is popular with hikers and can be walked from Ena , to Nakatsugawa , Ochiai, Magome & Tsumago on to Kiso-Fukushima , Miyanokoshi, Yabuhara, Narai , Kiso-Hirosawa and up to Matsumoto .

These post-towns provided accommodation and lodging for travelers on the old highway and now after being preserved and renovated since the 1960's serve a mix of walkers and day trippers on bus tours. Some of the post-towns, such as Tsumago , have preserved their honjin and waki-honjin, high class ryokan reserved for daimyo (feudal lords) and other high-ranking officials.

Kiso-Fukushima still has its barrier station or seki, where travelers on the Nakasendo had their travel passes checked by the authorities and were searched for firearms.

Other features of the ancient highway that have been preserved or recreated are kosatsuba noticeboards and joyato stone lanterns . The trails also have scores of stone Jizo statues, a Buddhist protector of travelers and dosojin, which are Shinto guardians providing the same function.

Mt Ontake, Kiso Valley, Nagano, Japan.

A number of ichirizuka have also been recreated - these are distance markers for one ri, about 3.9 km, and are mounds with either a tree or stone marking the spot.

The Kiso Valley has long been treasured for the quality of its timber reserves, especially cypress or hinoki trees, which were used to rebuild the shrines in Ise . Indeed, it was a capital offence to remove trees from the forests during Tokugawa times.

Lacquer was another important product and quality lacquer ware, such as bowls and trays, can be purchased in Kiso-Hirosawa and Kiso-Fukushima.

The Kiso Valley is also known for its excellent cuisine which can include such exotic fare as wild boar, river crabs, ayu sweetfish, crickets and mountain vegetables. A staple of the area found everywhere is soba noodles .

The mountain grown rice is also delicious as is the local sake - with the brand Nanawarai (Seven Smiles) being a popular local brew.

Post towns such as Magome and Tsumago have souvenir shops and crafts galleries selling local wood carvings, indigo-dyed clothes and bags, combs, lacquer and other local goods.

The Kiso Horse a short, sturdy horse was bred in the region for use both as a mount for samurai warriors and as a pack animal up and down the passes of the Nakasendo.

The Ateragawa is a tributary of the Kisogawa and the picturesque Atera Valley is known for its clear, emerald green water, numerous waterfalls and fall colors.

View of Kiso Ohashi, Narai, Nagano Prefecture.

Hiking The Nakasendo in the Kiso Valley

The main point of access to the Kiso Valley region is from Nagoya Station . Here visitors can take a JR train to Ena, Nakatsugawa or up to Kiso-Fukushima or Narai along the Kiso Valley to begin their hikes. The Kiso Valley is particularly beautiful in the fall when the autumn foliage can be spectacular.

A popular day hike is from Magome to Tsumago or further on to Nagiso. Visitors can take a bus from Nakatsugawa Station to Magome, walk over Magome Pass to Tsumago (about 2 hours) and then walk a further 90 minutes to Nagiso to take the train back to Nagoya. Buses also make the journey between Magome, Tsumago and Nagiso and back. See our Nakatsugawa guide for times .

Daitsuji Temple entrance gate, Kiso-Fukushima, Nagano Prefecture.

Accommodation in the Kiso Valley

The Kiso Valley has a number of traditional ryokan inns and minshuku as well as a number of more western-style resort hotels often with onsen.

Recommended is the Iseya Inn (Tel: 0264 34 3051; 伊勢屋) in Narai and the Kisojino-yado Iwaya Inn in Kiso-Fukushima. Magome and Tsumago have a number of places to stay including The Shinchaya minshuku located in a tranquil valley, 2km from Magome. Shinchaya 5110 Magome, Nakatsugawa-shi, Gifu 508-0502. Tel/Fax 057 369 2619.

Tajimaya is an inn with over 100 years of history in central Magome Tel: 057 369 2048. All the rooms have Wi-Fi access.

In Tsumago, the historic Maruya Inn is right on the Nakasendo and has tatami-style rooms and excellent food. Maruya Inn, Tsumago, Minami Kiso-machi, Nagano, Tel: 0264 57 3117; Fax: 0264 57 2591.

Narai Manhole Cover, Nakasendo, Japan.

Chubu International Airport is the most convenient international airport airport for an onward journey to the Kiso Valley. There are direct connecting trains on the Meitetsu Centrair service to Nagoya Station and Kanayama Station for JR trains to Nakatsugawa and then change to a local train for Narai or some direct Shinano Express trains from Nagoya stop at Kiso-Fukushima. If you are traveling from Osaka take the Shinkansen to Nagoya and change.

Narai-juku, Nakasendo, Nagano, Japan.

There are Shinano Express and local trains from Nagoya via Nakatsugawa to Narai taking 117 minutes for the 154km journey. Change at Kiso-Fukushima if traveling from Nagoya or if coming from Nagano change at Shiojiri. The line also connects to Matsumoto to the north, where visitors can change to the Shinano Express to Nagano and then the Azuma Shinkansen to Karuizawa and Tokyo. Journey time from Matsumoto to Nagano is 50 minutes on the Shinano and 33 minutes on the Shinkansen to Karuizawa. From Nagano to Tokyo by Shinkansen is 1 hour, 40 minutes.

Narai main street, Japan.

National Highway 361 passes close to the Kiso Valley. Alternatively take the 153 route or the Chuo Expressway via Nakatsugawa and Iida from Nagoya.

Chozenji Temple, Nagano Prefecture, Japan.

Kiso Valley Map

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Seven Ways to Enjoy the Kiso Valley this Summer

The Kiso Valley is one of Nagano’s hidden gems, sandwiched between the Central Alps and Mt. Ontake.

Updated: 2023-11-09

16270_ext_01_en_0_L-1

Surrounded by these near three-thousand-meter peaks, the Kiso Valley is characterized by its steep slopes and gorges which are covered in dense forest. The emerald greenery of the canopies and crystal-clear waters are a refreshing sight, especially during hot summers. For centuries, passing through Kiso was one of the main ways to travel between Kyoto and Edo during the Edo Period. Called the Nakasendo, this route stretched from the Sanjo Ohashi bridge in Kyoto to the Nihonbashi bridge in Edo. Along the way were 69 post towns, some of which have been impeccably preserved. Here, visitors can see the Japanese countryside as travelers, merchants, and samurai would have seen it hundreds of years ago. Enjoy the natural beauty and historical sites of the Kiso Valley that have been protected by its steep mountains. Here are some of the best places to visit in Kiso this summer!

How to Enjoy the Kiso Valley

1. Walk Kiso's Post Towns 2. Hike the Nakasendo 3. Forest-bathing in Akasawa and Aburagi Birin 4. Climb Mt. Ontake 5. Visit Kiso's Clear Ravines 6. Chopstick and Soba-making Lessons 7. Sake-tasting at Kiso's Local Breweries

1. Walk Kiso’s Timeless Post Towns

The Nakasendo is Kiso’s biggest draw among international tourists. Walking among two- to three-hundred-year-old towns surrounded by nothing but verdant forest is a magical experience, transporting travelers back in time to a bygone era. Twelve of the Nakasendo’s 69 post towns are located in the Kiso Valley and each of them has their own charm.

kiso valley travel

At the bottom of the valley in neighboring Gifu, Magome climbs upward and has beautiful views of nearby Mt. Ena. Its streets are impeccably paved with stone slabs and lined with souvenir shops and restaurants. There are several museums here to visit, including the Wakihonjin inn and the Toson Memorial Museum. The latter was the birthplace of Shimazaki Toson, one of Japan’s well-known authors, and commemorates his work.

kiso valley travel

Tsumago, in the heart of Southern Kiso, looks just as it did during the Edo period: the road is lined with single-story wooden inns whose roofs are weighted with heavy stones. In the evening, the street and buildings are bathed in the glow of hanging paper lanterns. You can stop by the Rekishi Shiryokan museum to learn more about the history of the area (has information in English), or take a short walk up to the ruins of Tsumago Castle, which has excellent views of the post town below.

kiso valley travel

At the northern exit of the valley, Narai was one of the longest and most prosperous post towns, with shops, restaurants and inns extending over a length of one kilometer. It is well known for its wood and lacquerware products. For a look at the inside of Narai’s beautiful houses, visit the Nakamura Residence, a former comb merchant’s house, or Kamidonya Shiryokan, the house of a wholesaler. The Kiso Ohashi Bridge, a shining example of the area’s wood craftsmanship, can be found just outside of town.

2. Hike along the Ancient Nakasendo

kiso valley travel

The post towns themselves aren’t the only way to enjoy the Nakasendo. Many sections of the trail remain, and hiking between the post towns is a great way to further experience their history and beauty. As you walk through Kiso’s forests, you’ll see vestiges of the Nakasendo, from small stone markers to little forgotten villages.

Magome to Tsumago Hike

Hiking between Magome and Tsumago is one of the most popular sections of the Nakasendo. It takes about two and a half to three hours to complete, covering about eight kilometers of varied terrain. The path is a mix of cobblestone and packed dirt with occasional forays onto the local road. One of the best parts of the trip is reaching the Tateba tea house in the middle of the hike. The old farmhouse is open to all hikers as a place to rest, recuperate, and chat with fellow travelers.

kiso valley travel

Torii Pass Hike

Another hike, which is still relatively unknown among international travelers, is between the post towns of Yabuhara and Narai. It was considered the most difficult stretch of Kiso’s Nakasendo because of the climb to Torii Pass (1,197m). Near the top of the pass is Ontake Shrine, from which you can see splendid views of the mountain. The trail is approximately six kilometers long and takes three hours to complete.

See More About Hiking the Nakasendo

・ Walking the Nakasendo ・ Tsumago Post Town and the Nakasendo Road Hike

3. Bathe in the Forests of Akasawa and Aburagi Birin

kiso valley travel

Kiso has always been an important source of timber in Japan. Its sturdy cypress trees have been used over the centuries to build many castles, fortifications, and temples, and are still used in the ceremonial rebuilding of Ise Jingu, Japan’s most sacred Shinto shrine.

kiso valley travel

The Akasawa area in particular was heavily logged until the government began protecting the land during the Edo Period. Thanks to their rather severe preservation efforts—the price of an illegally felled tree was “one head”—Akasawa’s forests are greener than ever, and the area is now known as the birthplace of Shinrin-Yoku, or Forest Therapy. You can take in the smell of cypress, the rustling leaves of the trees, and the soothing sounds of the streams as you walk through Akasawa’s forested paths. There are eight different trails around the woods, totaling a length of about 20 kilometers. A logging railroad also runs through the park. Visitors can take a roundtrip ride on the open-air trolley while enjoying the view and the cool breeze (800 yen per person).

Aburagi Birin

kiso valley travel

At the foot of Mt. Ontake, shrines, waterfalls, and relics of mountain pilgrimages are scattered around dense forest. Between the fourth and fifth mountain stations of Mt. Ontake is Aburagi Birin, a beautiful forest of cypress and evergreen trees. Its main draws are its two waterfalls, Komorebi and Fueki-no-taki. Komorebi Falls is about a 20-minute walk on soft trail from the entrance of the woods. Here, two sets of waterfalls join together and cascade down a series of rocks. The light through the trees dances above the water, hence the name komorebi (translates roughly to “light that leaks through the trees”). Fueki Falls is about 500 meters into the woods, surrounded by tall cypress trees. Waters seeps out of a large, moss-covered boulder and falls in delicate strands onto a slab of rock below. You can see a walking map of the woods here , and the parking area in Google Maps here .

4. Climb Mt. Ontake

kiso valley travel

Like Mts. Fuji, Haku, and Tateyama, Mt. Ontake is one of Japan’s most spiritual mountains, which has been revered by mountain ascetics for over a thousand years. It stands at an altitude of 3,067 meters on the border of Nagano and Gifu prefectures, towering over the forests of the Kiso Valley. Numerous trails have been opened up over the centuries by monks who climbed the mountain as a form of meditation and worship. Many shrines, stone monuments and other relics can be found on the trail.

kiso valley travel

The Ontake Ropeway travels from a 1,570m point to a 2,150m point on the mountainside, overlooking the Kiso Valley and the Central Japanese Alps from above the clouds. At the top of the ropeway is a viewing platform with an illustrative guide to the surrounding mountains, a café, and a shrine surrounded by alpine flowers.

Ropeway Details

Hours 8:30 to 16:15 Operating Period Late June to the end of October Price Roundtrip: Adults 2,600 Yen/ Children 1,300 Yen One Way: Adults 1,400 Yen/ Children 700 Yen

5. Explore Kiso’s Gorgeous Ravines

kiso valley travel

Due to the steep mountains surrounding the valley, Kiso is blessed with picturesque ravines and crystal clear water. Among them, Atera Keikoku and Kakizore Keikoku are Kiso’s hidden gems.

Atera Keikoku is located near Nojiri Station in Southern Kiso. The road along the riverbed about six kilometers long, passing numerous waterfalls, rapids, and bridges. The water here is known for its “Atera Blue” color, a transparent mix of sapphire and emerald. You can enjoy the glimmering waters of Atera Keikoku from afar, or you can dive right in! The water is incredibly clean and cool–the best way to relax on a hot summer’s day.

kiso valley travel

Ushigadaki Falls

kiso valley travel

Kakizore Keikoku

Farther south near Junikane Station is Kakizore Keikoku. The ravine’s most popular waterfall, Ushigadaki, is an hour-and-ten-minute walk from the station. You can continue farther into the ravine for another hour-and-a-half to see more of the ravine and other waterfalls.

6. Make your own Chopsticks, Mochi, and Soba!

kiso valley travel

Getting in touch with an area’s local crafts and cuisine adds a new dimension to your travel experience. With some help from some of Kiso’s kind obaa-chan, you can learn how to make chopsticks out of hinoki cypress, knead and cut soba noodles, or cook gohei mochi rice cakes. You can try these workshops at Kiso Fukushima’s Furusato Taikenkan. Formerly the Kurokawa Elementary school, this building’s bright, wooden halls are the perfect place to study Kiso’s culinary arts and crafts! It can be reached from Kiso Fukushima Station using the Kaida Kogen line bus (about 15 minutes).

Hinoki Chopsticks

Make chopsticks out of hinoki, use electric pen to burn your name or other designs into the wood.

kiso valley travel

Price 1,000 Yen Lesson time 45 minutes No. of Participants 1 to 20 persons

Nagano is known throughout Japan as the home of soba, and Kiso is a major producer. Learn about the careful process of kneading and shaping buckwheat dough before cutting your own noodles. They may not look like a professional’s, but they’ll taste just as good!

kiso valley travel

Price 1,400 Yen Lesson time 60-120 minutes No. of Participants 3 to 60 persons

Egomadare Gohei Mochi

Make one of Kiso’s traditional snacks! Gohei Mochi is a type of rice cake that is lightly pounded then roasted in a pan or open fire. Each area of the valley has its own variation in size, shape, and flavor of Gohei Mochi. Look out for paddles, flat round cakes, and spherical dango shapes. Flavors range form soy sauce, miso, to walnut and egoma (perilla seed).

kiso valley travel

Price 1,300 Yen Lesson time 60-90 minutes No. of Participants 2 to 60 persons

Reservations should be made for each activity in advance. Call 0264-27-1011.

7. Taste Kiso’s Local Sake and Visit its Breweries

kiso valley travel

Getting a little thirsty after a busy day on the Nakasendo? Try some of Kiso’s local sake! There are four sake breweries around Kiso which use the fresh water from the Central Alps and Mt. Ontake along with locally grown rice to brew excellent sake. The two most well-known are Nanawarai and Nakanorisan, both located in Kiso Fukushima. At their breweries, you can have a free tasting of many of their sake varieties. With advance notice, you may also be able to take a brewery tour as well.

kiso valley travel

Nakanorisan Brewery Tour

Nakanorisan is located across the river in Kiso Fukushima. Brewery tours are available for free to anyone who makes reservations in advance (a week beforehand is recommended). The staff cannot speak English, so providing your own interpreter is best, but if not they have some English handouts that help explain the brewery. Sake tasting is included afterward.

Nanawarai Brewery Tour

Nanawarai is located in Kiso Fukushima near the hot spring foot bath by the river. Tours are available to free and are by reservation only (make one month in advance by phone no.). The tour is 20 to 30 minutes long. Please provide your own interpreter.

Accommodation and Access

All of these activities sound great, but how do I get here, and where do I stay?

Accommodations around the Kiso Valley

Kiso’s post towns have centuries of hosting experience, so there are plenty of traditional inns to accommodate travelers from the around the world. In Tsumago, Fujioto Ryokan is a popular inn among foreign travelers. In Narai, consider Oyado Iseya , a beautiful accommodation in the middle of the kilometer-long town. Another option is staying in nearby Kiso Fukushima, centrally located in the valley with bus access to Akasawa, Aburagi Birin, and Mt. Ontake (as well as being the location of Nanawarai and Nakanorisan’s sake breweries!). For a luxury stay, take a look at Onyado Tsutaya .

The JR Chuo Honsen line runs through the Kiso Valley from Nagoya to Matsumoto/Nagano. Kiso Fukushima and Narai post towns can be reached on foot from their respective train stations, Kiso Fukushima Station and Narai Station. Magome and Tsumago can be reached by bus from their respective stations, Nakatsugawa and Nagiso stations.

・ Nakatsugawa Station to Magome Bus ・ Nagiso Station to Tsumago, Magome Bus

Akasawa, Aburagi Birin, Mt. Ontake, and the Furusato Taikenkan can all be accessed by bus from Kiso Fukushima Station.

・ Kiso Fukushima Station to Akasawa Bus ・ Kiso Fukushima Station to Mt. Ontake, Aburagi Birin(For Aburagi Birin, get off at Hyakkandaki Iriguchi) ・ Kiso Fukushima Station to Furusato Taikenkan, Kaida Kogen

The entrance to Atera Keikoku is a 20-minute walk from Nojiri Station. During peak season (from late July to beginning of September), cars aren’t allowed into the ravine unless you have reservations at the Atera Keikoku Campgrounds. Ushigadaki Falls and Kakizore Keikoku are 70 minutes away on foot (10 minutes by car) from Junikane Station. Parking is available nearby, about 15 minutes on foot from the falls.

Recommended articles

The Lacquerware of Kiso Hirasawa

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Kiso Valley

kiso valley travel

  • 2 Post-Towns
  • 3 Understand
  • 4.1 By train
  • 5 Get around
  • 6.1 Post towns
  • 11 Stay safe

Running beside the central Japan Alps the Kiso Valley ( 木曽谷 ) long has had travellers since before the Edo Period when people would walk the Kisoji though this later formed part of the Nakasendo connecting Tokyo and Kyoto . Due to the many trips on foot post-towns began appearing as rest points for travellers, many post-towns are still well preserved and attract visitors. The Kiso Valley is one of the best places to visit to experience rural Japan.

Cities [ edit ]

Map

35.603667 137.608833 2 Nagiso

35.487583 137.500583 3 Nakatsugawa

36.114972 137.953444 4 Shiojiri

Post-Towns [ edit ]

35.524722 137.558333 1 Magome - restored post-town with cobble stone walkways

35.965278 137.811389 2 Narai - the richest post-town in the Kiso Valley

35.5753 137.5951 3 Tsumago - authentically preserved post-town

Understand [ edit ]

Covering land in both Gifu and Nagano , this area was once a section of the old Nakasendō Highway, one of Japan's historic transport arteries joining Kyoto with Edo (present-day Tokyo). Roughly following the Kiso River, the once-important post towns now where travellers would stop form a well-preserved living museum of the Edo Period, with most modern facilities being hidden from sight. Historically, Kiso district was once known as Nishichikuma District (西筑摩郡).

Get in [ edit ]

By train [ edit ].

The centrally-located train station for the Kiso Valley is Kiso Fukushima (木曽福島), located on the JR Chuo Main Line .

There are several different approaches to Kiso-Fukushima from Tokyo . One route is to take the Tokaido Shinkansen Nozomi to Nagoya , then transfer to the Wide View Shinano for the run to Kiso Fukushima (3 hours 20 minutes, ¥13800).

Another route is to take the Nagano Shinkansen Asama to Nagano and transfer there to the Wide View Shinano . This takes about 3 hours 40 minutes and costs ¥11300.

A third way is to take the Azusa or Super Azusa from Shinjuku to Shiojiri and transfer there to the Wide View Shinano (3 hours 20 minutes with good connection, ¥9080).

If you use the Japan Rail Pass, you should go via Nagano or Shiojiri.

From western Japan, including Kyoto and Osaka , take the Shinkansen to Nagoya and change to the Wide View Shinano or to local service.

Note that some other parts of the valley are located at other stations near Kiso Fukushima on the JR Chuo Main Line (see below).

By bus [ edit ]

From Tokyo you can also sign up with local motorcoach tours for a one or two-day excursion to the Kiso Valley region. And from Tokyo , the highway bus goes Kiso Fukushima via Shiojiri

Get around [ edit ]

Buses of the following two companies serve part of the valley and are good for train connections and returning to your destination after a hike, although they run infrequently.

See [ edit ]

Post towns [ edit ].

The biggest attraction in the Kiso Valley are the picturesque post towns that follow along the Nakasendo. The two most visited and best preserved are Tsumago and Magome near the south of the valley. Post-towns developed in the Edo Period as a rest points for travellers walking from Tokyo to Kyoto due to laws in place making this the only way to travel. Most post towns had a Honjin that served as the main inn and smaller Wakihonjins that served wealthier travellers, Tsumago and Magome both have restored Honjins.

Do [ edit ]

Hiking [ edit ].

The Nakasendo, an old route connecting Tokyo and Kyoto runs through the Kiso Valley and one could walk the entire valley from Nakatsugawa in the south to Shiojiri at the valley's northern end. The most popular section of the route is the trail from Magome to Tsumago due to the cobble stone path connecting the cities and the route's gentle nature on other sections of the Nakasendo one will have to walk on the sides of roads for most of the journey.

Eat [ edit ]

The Kiso Valley's main speciality are its soba and Goheimochi, grilled mochi with sauce. Soba in the Kiso Valley is traditionally made with water from the Kiso River they are usually eaten with locally produced Sunki (red turnip) pickles or dipped into various vegetable broths, although soba is eaten all year round the pickles are most common during winter. Various Wagashi (confectionary) shops can be found in the Kiso Valley usually using the area's chestnuts. Due to the area's popularity many western-style cafes and restaurants can be found in the region specifically in Tsumago and Magome . Most restaurants in the smaller post-towns close down at night, if you're staying up late you may want to have your own food or contact your accommodation for meals.

Buy [ edit ]

The Kiso valley is known for the " Hinoki " fine-grained cedar pine trees (Chamaecyparis Obtusa). This scented wood is known for its durability. Hinoki is used for example for bath tubs and accessories. Japan's most important shrine, Ise Jingu is rebuilt each 20 years using Kiso Hinoki. You can buy Hinoki goods, especially around Narai. Kiso-Hirasawa in Shiojiri is famous for its lacquerware.

Drink [ edit ]

Stay safe [ edit ], go next [ edit ].

kiso valley travel

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Planning A Trip To Japan? Here's A Weekend Itinerary To Kiso Valley

Travelling to the kiso valley in japan will feel more like time travel instead of geographical travel. read on to know more about it..

By: Priyanka Chakrabarti Published: Aug 01, 2019 08:00 AM IST

Planning A Trip To Japan? Here's A Weekend Itinerary To Kiso Valley

If you’re travelling from Tokyo to Kiso Valley, expect some serious culture shock as the transition from Japan’s bustling metropole to the traditional and laid-back villages will feel more like a time travel than a geographical one. The post towns or ‘juku ‘ , guarded by imposing cliffs, used to serve as buffer spots for weary travellers on the Nakasendo trail. We’’ve covered that and more about Kiso Valley , so brace yourself for the quiet beauty of this remote destination in Japan. By Shubhanjana Das

1. magome village.

Very few places in Japan have managed to preserve their history and Magome is one such village perched on a slope with its broad stone walkways lined with trees, traditional houses, humble restaurants, souvenir shops and museums like Waki-Honjin  and the Toson Memorial Museum showcasing the work of legendary artists from the area. The top of the slope walk promises views of Mt. Ena that are worth grabbing a drink for to enjoy from one of the restaurants.

Located in the heart of Southern Kiso, Tsumago was one of the first historical preservation projects in Japan. The unassuming, unpaved streets lined with double-storey wooden houses and paper lanterns guiding the way speak volumes of that preservation project. While Tsumago is located in (almost) flat land, views from the Tsumago Castle are absolutely magnificent. The Nakasendo hike from Magome to Tsumago is something you can undertake if you’re one of those always onlooking adventures .

3. Naegi Castle

Located in Nakatsugawa-juku , Naegi Castle is often referred to as the ‘Macchu Picchu of The East’. While Nakatsugawa may have its own comfortable and modern-day facilities, this castle nestled atop Mt. Takamori remind one of the strategic importance of this castle in the years gone by. The castle is located at a height of 432 metres and holds command to the views of Nakasendo passing through the mountains of Kiso Valley.

4. The Hike from Magome to Tsumago

The hike on this ancient Nakasendo is so epic, it deserves a special mention! Sprawling through forest , temples, small ancient villages and rustic tea houses, this eight km hike is worth taking and how! Stop at the Tateba Tea House in the middle of the hike or at the farmhouses on the way which are open for guests to rest and communicate with the locals . P.S. We hope you can speak Japanese.

5. Mt. Ontake

One of the most spiritual and religious trails in Japan is an ode to the monks who climbed Mt. Ontake (3,067m) for meditation and worship. However, don’t worry about hiking all the way up, as the Ontake Ropeway takes you from a point at 1,570m to 2,150m on the mountainside. The ropeway overlooking Kiso Valley and Central Japanese Alps through thick clouds offers spellbinding views. A viewing platform with an illustrative guide to the surrounding mountains , a shrine surrounded by alpine flowers and a café awaits your arrival at the peak.

Related:  Explore The Trend Of Micro-Homes In Japan

  • Central Japanese Alps
  • Kiso Valley
  • Kiso Valley In Japan
  • Macchu Picchu of The East
  • Magome Village
  • Magone to Tsumago
  • Mt. Takamori
  • Naegi Castle
  • Nakasendo hike
  • Nakatsugawa-juku
  • Ontake Ropeway
  • Tateba Tea House
  • The Hike from Magone to Tsumago
  • Tokyo to Kiso Valley
  • Tsumago Castle
  • Waki-Honjin
  • Wakihonjin Inn

Priyanka Chakrabarti

Priyanka Chakrabarti

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Winter Explorations through the Kiso Valley

NAVITIME TRAVEL EDITOR

kiso valley travel

The Kiso Valley which runs almost vertically south (or north, depending which way you traverse it) through the southern part of Nagano is an ancient trade route that served as an important means of commerce in the area since before the Edo period. The route became saw a sharp increase in usage during the Edo period, when it formed part of the Nakasendo – a 500km road that connected the cities of Kyoto and Edo (modern day Tokyo). Warriors and tradesmen would often make the arduous journey along the Nakasendo to the capital city by foot, stopping at “post-towns” that served as a place for travelers to rest their weary feet and stock up on food for the long journey ahead. Along the Kiso Valley, a few of these post-towns have been meticulously preserved to look like they did during the Edo period, when they served hordes of travelers navigating the Nakasendo. Of particular note are the towns of Magome, Tsumago and Narai (in order of popularity). Visiting today allows you to experience traditional Japanese buildings from a bygone era and feel an atmosphere of old Japan that is hard to come by in most other areas. Many of the buildings still serve as guesthouses, while others have been preserved as museums showing how life was during the Edo period. There are plenty of places to stay along the Kiso Valley, allowing you to explore the old towns at your own pace.

Why explore the Kiso Valley in Winter?

The Kiso Valley is open to travelers throughout the year, with spring and summer being the most popular times to visit. Popularity during spring is of course because of the cherry blossom, and the summer because the climate is a lot cooler than other major places like Tokyo and Kyoto. Our favorite time of year to explore the Kiso Valley though, is in fact during winter, when the crowds are almost non-existent. This allows for a much more authentic experience, it’s just you and the beautiful surroundings of old Japan – no groups of tourists being herded from location to location, no selfie stick wielding teenagers looking for the ultimate selfie spot and very few families, as the kids are all at school! Not only that, but if you’re lucky enough to catch some fresh snowfall during your visit you will witness breathtaking scenes that make for some of the best photography on any trip to Japan. With that being said, in the article we will introduce you to the towns of Narai, Tsumago and Magome (traveling north to south), and show you what you can expect during a winter trip to the area. NOTE: Yes, this is a mountainous area and Nagano is generally considered one of the best regions in Japan for snowfall, but the Kiso Valley is fairly far south in the prefecture and can sometimes go entire winters with only one or two days of snowfall. Having said that, on average there’s a fairly good chance of snowfall during the months of December, January and February.

Narai (Naraijuku)

The town of Narai marked the halfway point between Kyoto and Tokyo for travelers along the Nakasendo Route. It was a town of great prosperity, crammed with a large number of rest houses and local merchant’s quarters. The long walk down Narai’s main strip will allow you to see a number of very well restored houses, as well as a handful of souvenir shops, restaurants and a total of five temples and shrines. There are also a couple of buildings that have been turned into low-key museums showing how life was inside a typical residence in Narai during the Edo period.

The main road through Narai is almost completely deserted during the winter months, compared to the summer when it is filled with tourists, shoppers and families

The main road through Narai is almost completely deserted during the winter months, compared to the summer when it is filled with tourists, shoppers and families

A wholesaler in Narai that has managed to maintain an atmosphere of Edo period Japan while continuing to do business in the 21st century

A wholesaler in Narai that has managed to maintain an atmosphere of Edo period Japan while continuing to do business in the 21st century

A wholesaler in Narai that has managed to maintain an atmosphere of Edo period Japan while continuing to do business in the 21st century

Small restaurants line this street corner without ruining the aesthetic of the town

The main road through Narai after a recent snowfall

The main road through Narai after a recent snowfall

The forested mountains behind the town of Narai looking particularly good with a dusting of new snow

The forested mountains behind the town of Narai looking particularly good with a dusting of new snow

A local shop that looks as if it is belongs on the set of a Kurosawa movie

A local shop that looks as if it is belongs on the set of a Kurosawa movie

The main road through Narai after a recent snowfall

BYAKU Narai

551 奈良井 Matsumoto

Agoda

Tsumago (Tsumagojuku)

Tsumago is known today as one of the best-preserved towns in all of Japan. Its residents and local authorities have gone to great lengths to ensure the atmosphere and buildings closely resemble how the town looked during the Edo period, when the Nakasendo was at its busiest. Cars are restricted along the main street and power cables have been hidden underground, leaving little sign of modern life on display while wondering through the town. The two main Inns during the Edo period, the Honjin and Wakihonjin, have both been carefully preserved as well allowing you to see where government officials and other people of status would have stayed while traversing the Nakasendo on foot. The Wakihonjin in particular is a great place to visit during the winter months, when the sun sits low in the sky and floods the main room with its rays during the middle of the day, creating a majestic atmosphere that stuns anybody you witnesses it.

Looking down on Tsumago’s main street on a cold January morning

Looking down on Tsumago’s main street on a cold January morning

The wooden signpost of a traditional Japanese inn in the town of Tsumago

The wooden signpost of a traditional Japanese inn in the town of Tsumago

The wooden signpost of a traditional Japanese inn in the town of Tsumago

New-years decorations are displayed outside residences, inns and shops throughout January, injecting a nice element of colour and detail into the town. Another great reason to visit during the winter months

A local shop in Tsumago with no advertising and little signage, a far cry from the scenes you witness in Tokyo and almost every other town up and down Japan

A local shop in Tsumago with no advertising and little signage, a far cry from the scenes you witness in Tokyo and almost every other town up and down Japan

Tsumago night scene

Tsumago night scene

Tsumago-juku image

Wakihonjin, the inn that served people of importance during the Edo period is a beautiful building well worth visiting throughout the year, but it really comes to life during the winter months when the midday sun floods the main room with powerful sun beams that mix with the smoke from the hearth to create magical scenes

Tending to the hearth

Tending to the hearth

A sight to behold

A sight to behold

Wakihonjin Okuya image

Tsumago to Magome Hike

Our final destination along the Kiso Vally is the post town of Magome, which is located roughly 8 kilometers from Tsumago. There are buses that connect the two towns, but we highly recommend opting to hike between the two using the old Nakasendo route, which has been well maintained and makes for a great activity. It takes around 2-3 hours to complete and has various things along the way to see including (more) traditional inns, a teahouse and a couple of waterfalls.

The hike from Tsumago to Magome takes you through a series of forested areas, bamboo groves and along beautiful scenic pathways

The hike from Tsumago to Magome takes you through a series of forested areas, bamboo groves and along beautiful scenic pathways

The total route is approximately 8 kilometers

The total route is approximately 8 kilometers

There are traditional inns dotted sporadically along the route, most of them are closer to the Tsumago end

There are traditional inns dotted sporadically along the route, most of them are closer to the Tsumago end

A waterfall along the hiking route

A waterfall along the hiking route

This tea house is located roughly halfway between the two towns, they offer a place to sit and relax around an open fire with free tea and snacks. Donations are gratefully accepted

This tea house is located roughly halfway between the two towns, they offer a place to sit and relax around an open fire with free tea and snacks. Donations are gratefully accepted

Inside the tea house

Inside the tea house

Magome (Magomejuku)

Our final destination is the town of Magome, which is technically in Gifu Prefecture, not Nagano, as it sits just a stones throw across the border. Magome has been beautifully restored with a lovely stone walkway that runs through the entirety of the town. Both sides of the walkway are lined with a number of shops, eateries and of course traditional Japanese inns. The preservation efforts have been masterfully executed, with serious attention having been paid to the smallest of details, giving Magome a cleaner and more polished ambience compared to the neighboring town of Tsumago. A backdrop of Japan’s Southern Alps in the greater Gifu area add another layer of beauty to the town and also allow for some lovely photographing from the higher vantage points, especially if they are snowcapped in the winter.

A well maintained stone path leads you through the town of Magome

A well maintained stone path leads you through the town of Magome

The buildings throughout the town have been beautifully preserved

The buildings throughout the town have been beautifully preserved

Magome has many more commercial businesses than Tsumago and Narai, but has managed to keep a pleasant atmosphere of old Japan without much of a commercial feel

Magome has many more commercial businesses than Tsumago and Narai, but has managed to keep a pleasant atmosphere of old Japan without much of a commercial feel

The views from Magome across the Southern Alps make for a lovely backdrop to the town

The views from Magome across the Southern Alps make for a lovely backdrop to the town

The town of Magome

The town of Magome

Looking up the main street in Magome

Looking up the main street in Magome

The main street is lined with an assortment of trees and flowers that make for interesting frames during winter and then spring to life during the warmer months

The main street is lined with an assortment of trees and flowers that make for interesting frames during winter and then spring to life during the warmer months

The main strip in the town of Magome, deserted during the winter months allows for a great place to peacefully stroll and take in the atmosphere of the Kiso Valley

The main strip in the town of Magome, deserted during the winter months allows for a great place to peacefully stroll and take in the atmosphere of the Kiso Valley

Magomejuku image

Magome and Tsumago Private One Day Tour from Nakatsugawa

Update date:2024/04/16

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kiso valley travel

Visiting the Kiso Valley

Visiting the Kiso Valley

For context, the Kiso Valley is in the Nagano Prefecture, set along the Central Alps of Japan. I think when we think of Japan, places like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka come to mind. There is so much more to be discovered in Japan. The main “post” towns that are visited in the Kiso Valley are Tsumago and Magome along the historic Nakasendo Route. The Nakasendo route (means path through the mountains) connected the 67 post towns in the Edo period of Japan, playing a crucial role in connecting commerce. The post towns came to be as the route could only be taken on foot, and existed as a resting place for travelers. Now, you can feel the spiritualness that comes through passing these sacred mountains that served as a way to be connected for generations before. Through preservation, the post towns of  Tsumago and Magome can be visited and many people hike the Nakasendo trail between the two. This connection in the valley played a major role in keeping Japan’s culture connected at a time that depended on it.

Tsumago in Kiso valley

I had booked a traditional Japanese ryokan (inn) in Tsumago. I had heard Magome was busier with tour buses passing by, and Tsumago was quieter. My first choice of Fujioto Ryokan had been sold out almost 7 months in advance, so our second choice of Shimosagaya would have to do. The small inns of only 7-9 rooms are still maintained as they were in the Edo Period. You could nearly feel the presence of previous travelers who had sojourned after a long journey. A taxi took us to our ryokan after the journey to Nagiso Station, dropping us off with our luggage and excitement.

Shimosagaya in Tsumago

Dinner was sharply served at 6:30 pm and if you were a minute late, you would know. A set course set in front of us portrayed the region’s local cuisine. River fish, miso soup, an assortment of pickled vegetables, fried crickets, and other proteins cured in miso would be tonight’s dinner. Showers were strictly from 4:30-9p, so with a quick rinse, we settled in for the night. The table was moved to the corner, we laid out our mats and slept on the floor to the sound of the rushing river. It was magical.

Breakfast at Shimosagaya Kiso Valley

We woke up to the fog over the mountains, whipping over the wintery pines. Breakfast was served strictly at 7:30 am, and your plate was there whether or not you were. It was an assortment of the evening before, this time with an omelet and a salad. It would be the right amount of fuel for our hike.

Visiting the Kiso Valley

Our final stretch, the clouds separated to give way to the peaks of the mountain. A perfect ending to the 8-kilometer hike, we descended into Magome. Arriving in Magome meant we could refuel. Street stalls sold an assortment of treats, like charred chestnuts, grilled rice, pork buns, and the classic shaved ice. Naturally, we tried one of each. At the end of the street, we spotted a coffee shop named Hillbilly and were surprised to find a beautiful space in such a small town. Entering in, we noticed a postcard from our favorite coffee shop in San Francisco and were thrilled to find the owner’s brother lived in SF. It was serendipitous — to travel across the world only to find how small our world really is.

kiso valley travel

There couldn’t have been a sweeter way to end our day in the Kiso Valley.

(Read this post for more photos to inspire you to visit Japan).

Visiting the Kiso Valley

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Hi! thank you for creating this lovely blog post! I am curious – did you hike back? Did you hike roundtrip is what I mean. Thank you! We will be visiting in November and very much considering the Kiso Valley.

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Hi! We stayed in Tsumago the whole time and did a round-trip day hike to Magome. The hike is ~1.5hrs without stops. Hope that helps!

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Kiso Valley - Japan Travel Guide - Japanspecialist

Kiso valley.

Travel back in time and into the mountains.

The view from Magome-juku

The view from Magome-juku

Tsumago-juku old town district

Tsumago-juku old town district

Komagatake mountains

Komagatake mountains

The Nakasendo Trail

The Nakasendo Trail

Historic wooden houses of Tsumago-Juku

Historic wooden houses of Tsumago-Juku

About the Kiso Valley The Kiso Valley is located at the foot of the Kiso Mountains, a part of the Japanese Alps. In the age of the samurai, this scenic and unspoilt valley was a part of the Nakasendo trail, the route that connected Kyoto and Tokyo for travellers on foot. Two of the best-preserved villages on the entire route, Magome and Tsumago, are located here, and both towns have done much to keep the atmosphere from the old days.

Walk in the footsteps of the samurai Magome and Tsumago are both small villages surrounded by beautiful scenery, and we recommend that you stay at a Japanese inn (‘minshuku’ or ‘ryokan’), which underscores the feel of ancient Japan. The area invites you to take wonderful walks in the small quaint town streets or out in open landscapes. The most exciting experience is walking the path between Tsumago and Magome, a very well-preserved stretch of the Nakasendo road. The stretch is 8 km long and goes past fields, forests and houses. It takes 2-3 hours to walk at relaxed pace. If you don’t want to walk all the way back you can catch a bus. However, it is important to check the departure times beforehand as there are only a few buses a day!

Other attractions in the Kiso Valley In Tsumago you can visit Honjin and Wakihonjin, two well-preserved old travellers’ inns. Honjin was the place where high-ranking samurai stayed, whereas Wakihonjin was for travellers of lower status. Another worthwhile visit is Rekishi Shiryokan, a museum showing the history of Tsumago and the Kiso Valley, with a lot of information in English. If you have any extra time, pay a visit to Narai just north of Tsumago and Magome. This town was also part of the Nakasendo trail and marked the halfway spot between Kyoto and Tokyo.

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Kiso Valley, Japan – The Ultimate Travel Guide to History

The Kiso Valley is a beautiful region between the cities of Nagoya and Matsumoto. Here you can still experience real traditional Japan. In fact, the route through this 70-kilometre-long valley used to be part of one of the two main walking routes between Tokyo and Kyoto: the Nakasendo Trail. You can still enjoy beautiful walks that bring you past a number of historic villages. It can easily give you the feeling of living 200 years back in time.

Are you planning to visit the Kiso Valley? In this travel guide, I will guide you through the region’s best sights, discover the best accommodation and learn more about the special history of this traditional part of Japan. A history-rich visit to the Kiso Valley starts here…

This travel guide to the Kiso Valley contains affiliate links. This means if you make a booking through one of the links on this website, Travel4history gets a small compensation for it. This doesn’t cost you anything extra by the way!

In this Travel Guide to the Kiso Valley

Best travel time, how many days.

  • History – What makes historically interesting?

Plan your trip to the Kiso Valley & Japan

  • Accommodation:  Hotel in Magome or Nagiso ?
  • Activities:   Tickets & Tours
  • Transport by Air? Flight Tickets
  • Own Transport?: Rent a Car
  • Train tickets:   Japan Railway Pass – 7, 14 or 21 days?

The beautiful nature of the Kiso Valley, Japan

Practical Information for a Visit to the Kiso Valley

April to September

The best time to visit the Kiso Valley is between April and September. During these months you have the best weather and you can also hike the Nakasendo Trail. From November to March is the coldest period here and most stores are also closed.

Are you planning to do the Nakasendo Trail? Then you can do it in half a day if it is the hike between Magome and Tsumago. Would you like to continue exploring this peace of Japan? Then you can decide to stay overnight and visit other villages and places.

Historical Facts – Did you know that…?

  • Between 1603 and 1868, this was one of the two main running routes between Tokyo and Kyoto? The other route ran along the coast and was a lot easier to walk.
  • There were 11 post villages in the Kiso Valley where the samurai could spend the night? A few of these villages still exist, including Magome and Tsumago.
  • The Nakasendo Trail was over 500 kilometers long and took over 100 hours to complete on foot?

History of the Nakasendo Trail In Japan

Sightseeing – What to do in the Kiso Valley?

By far the most tourists who visit the Kiso Valley do so to walk part of the Nakasendo Trail. The route between Magome and Tsumago is quite popular and also for the inexperienced tourist easy to maintain. The route is only 8 kilometers and although there are height differences it is not very difficult. The Trail begins in the traditional village of Magome, is well marked along the way and ends in the equally traditional Tsumago. Along the way you can take a break at a café where they serve tea and during the walk you can enjoy the beautiful nature of this valley. Want to know more about this walk? Read more about it in the article Nakasendo Trail | The Historic path of the Samurai .

The little village of Magome in Japan

Accommodation – Where to stay?

Do you have time to spare and would like to stay in a traditional village? Then there are plenty of possibilities. For example, it is possible to drop off your suitcase or backpack at the tourist office in Magome and it will be transported to Tsumago for a fee. In Tsumago you can then spend the night in a nice Ryokan, a traditional hotel. If you want to walk more of the Nakasendo Trail you can also visit the village of Narai. This is the largest village in the region, but looks just as nice and traditional as Magome and Tsumago.

The beautiful Kiso Valley in Japan

Transportation – How to get there?

The Kiso Valley is best reached by train. From Nagoya, the JR Shinano Limited Express departs with Nagano as the end station. In between, the train stops at the Nakatsugawa (for Magome), Nagiso (for Tsumago), Kiso-Fukushima, Narai and Kiso-Hirasawa stops. To get to Magome and Tsumago, you must use a bus, but these trips take 30 minutes at most.

Next destination in Japan?

Now that you’ve experienced the real Japan, it’s time to move on. Heading north, you’ll explore the Japanese Alps and encounter the cities of Matsumoto and Nagano. For the south, you’ll head to Nagoya , which is the stopover for cities in western Japan, such as Kyoto , Osaka and Nara . For the east, continue on to sacred Mount Fuji or to the country’s modern capital, Tokyo .

Do you have more tips, ideas and comments about the Kiso Valley in Japan? Then feel free to leave a comment below.

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IMAGES

  1. Magome & Tsumago in Kiso Valley, Japan

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  2. Where to Stay in the Kiso Valley & Nakasendo?

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  3. Kiso Valley Travel Guide

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  4. Where To Stay In The Kiso Valley & Nakasendo?

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  5. Kiso Valley Nakasendō travel

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  6. Things to do in Kiso Valley in Japan

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COMMENTS

  1. Kiso Valley Travel Guide

    The Kiso Valley (木曽路, Kisoji) is located in Nagano Prefecture, and runs alongside the mountains of the Central Alps. An ancient 70 km trade route called the Kisoji was developed along the valley and served as a very important means of commerce in the area. The Kisoji became even more important from the beginning of the Edo Period, when it ...

  2. Kiso Valley

    The rugged and forested Kiso Valley in southwestern Nagano is a fascinating step back in time. The area is home to the best-preserved section of the old Nakasendo merchant trail. ... From the early 1600s until the late 1800s, the Nakasendo Highway served as a vital travel artery, connecting Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo). Seventy kilometers of it ...

  3. Kiso Valley

    The Kiso Ontake Tourism Office was formed in April 2017. Our team have hands-on experience with overseas markets and are passionate about showcasing the untouched splendour of the Kiso Valley. Located in Nagano Prefecture. Main train station: JR Kiso Fukushima.

  4. 25 Things To Do Around The Kiso Valley / Nakasendo & Where To Stay

    The Kiso Valley is a beautiful area located between Shiojiri and Nakatsugawa in Nagano Prefecture. The area lies to the west of Tokyo - around 250KM / 3.5 to 4 hours drive. Running north to south, the valley follows the Kiso River and is known for its pristine waterways, forests, waterfalls and hiking trails including the historic Nakasendo.

  5. The Ultimate Kiso Valley Guide

    Chief among the post towns in the Kiso Valley are the towns of Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku. These neighboring communities have put considerable effort into defending the authenticity of the role they served on the Nakasendo. Additionally, the towns are connected by a 7.8 km stretch of the Nakasendo that can still be hiked today.

  6. Hiking the Historic Nakasendo Trail: 3 Days in the Kiso Valley

    Nakasendo Trail Itinerary: 3 Days Exploring Japan's Countryside. Hiking on the Nakasendo trail between Magome and Narai is a wonderful opportunity to swap urban exploration for serene and stunning countryside. Over just a few days you'll discover rural mountain passes, peaceful forests, historic post towns, and the best of rural Japan on foot.

  7. Travel in the Kiso Valley and Nakasendo Trail

    Deep in the mountains of Nagano prefecture lies the pristine Kiso Valley. This forested landscape is home to rushing waterfalls, ancient trees, snaking rivers and the towering Mount Ontake. Though remote, the area has a fascinating history belied by its sleepy country facade. People come from far and wide to walk the famous Nakasendo Trail, a ...

  8. Kiso Valley Guide

    Tajimaya is an inn with over 100 years of history in central Magome Tel: 057 369 2048. All the rooms have Wi-Fi access. In Tsumago, the historic Maruya Inn is right on the Nakasendo and has tatami-style rooms and excellent food. Maruya Inn, Tsumago, Minami Kiso-machi, Nagano, Tel: 0264 57 3117; Fax: 0264 57 2591.

  9. Seven Ways to Enjoy the Kiso Valley this Summer

    The Kiso Valley is one of Nagano's hidden gems, sandwiched between the Central Alps and Mt. Ontake. Updated: 2023-11-09. ... For centuries, passing through Kiso was one of the main ways to travel between Kyoto and Edo during the Edo Period. Called the Nakasendo, this route stretched from the Sanjo Ohashi bridge in Kyoto to the Nihonbashi ...

  10. Kiso Valley

    The Kiso valley is known for the " Hinoki " fine-grained cedar pine trees (Chamaecyparis Obtusa). This scented wood is known for its durability. Hinoki is used for example for bath tubs and accessories. Japan's most important shrine, Ise Jingu is rebuilt each 20 years using Kiso Hinoki. You can buy Hinoki goods, especially around Narai.

  11. Planning A Trip To Japan? Here's A Weekend Itinerary To Kiso Valley

    If you're travelling from Tokyo to Kiso Valley, expect some serious culture shock as the transition from Japan's bustling metropole to the traditional and laid-back villages will feel more like a time travel than a geographical one. The post towns or 'juku', guarded by imposing cliffs, used to serve as buffer spots for weary travellers on the Nakasendo trail.

  12. Winter Explorations through the Kiso Valley

    The Kiso Valley which runs almost vertically south (or north, depending which way you traverse it) through the southern part of Nagano is an ancient trade route that served as an important means of commerce in the area since before the Edo period. Many of the buildings still serve as guesthouses, while others have been preserved as museums showing how life was during the Edo period.

  13. Visiting the Kiso Valley

    The Kiso Valley was first brought to my attention when I had read Local Milk's blog post on the region — I was completely mesmerized. A sleepy town nestled in fog draped mountains, where time was slow and meant to be savored is the best way to describe the Kiso Valley. I couldn't have asked for anything better. So much of travel, for me ...

  14. Fun Things to Do in Kiso Valley

    Best Areas To Stay In Kiso Valley. The Kiso Valley in Japan is a picturesque region known for its stunning natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. When it comes to finding accommodation in this area, there are several best areas that offer unique experiences for visitors.. 1. Magome: This charming village is a popular starting point for hiking the Nakasendo Trail.

  15. Kiso Valley

    The Kiso Valley is located at the foot of the Kiso Mountains, a part of the Japanese Alps. In the age of the samurai, this scenic and unspoilt valley was a part of the Nakasendo trail, the route that connected Kyoto and Tokyo for travellers on foot. Two of the best-preserved villages on the entire route, Magome and Tsumago, are located here ...

  16. Kiso Valley, Japan

    The Kiso Valley is best reached by train. From Nagoya, the JR Shinano Limited Express departs with Nagano as the end station. In between, the train stops at the Nakatsugawa (for Magome), Nagiso (for Tsumago), Kiso-Fukushima, Narai and Kiso-Hirasawa stops. To get to Magome and Tsumago, you must use a bus, but these trips take 30 minutes at most.

  17. Destinations

    The sleepy town of Kiso-Fukushima is the perfect base for exploring the surrounding Kiso Valley. ... Destinations - Kiso Valley - B2 - Essential Japan Travel - DMC in Japan. Essential Japan Travel in association with Solo Inc. 126 WeWork 13F, 6-10-1, 中央区, 東京都, 104-0061, Japan.

  18. Kiso Valley

    Kiso is a forested, mountainous valley nestled in southern Nagano, known for its scenic peaks, carbonated hot springs, hiking trails and picturesque towns on the historic Nakasendo trail. Come and enjoy its pure splendour. Step back in time and explore the ancient Nakasendo trail, one of the 'Five Routes' of the Edo period, travelled by ...