2009 dodge journey 3.5 serpentine belt diagram

Serpentine Belt Diagram

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2009 Dodge Journey 3.5 Serpentine Belt Diagram

Introduction.

The 2009 Dodge Journey is a mid-size crossover SUV that offers ample interior space, impressive handling, and a V6 engine that delivers ample power to tackle daily commutes and weekend adventures. One of the key components of the 2009 Journey's engine system is the serpentine belt, which connects various engine parts to ensure they work in harmony. In this article, we'll take a closer look at the 2009 Dodge Journey 3.5 serpentine belt diagram to help you understand how this crucial component works.

The Importance of the Serpentine Belt

The serpentine belt, sometimes called the drive belt, is a long, continuous belt that snakes around the various engine pulleys, including the crankshaft, water pump, alternator, and power steering pump. The belt's primary function is to transfer power from the engine to these components, which helps power your vehicle's electrical systems and keeps it running smoothly. If the belt is damaged or faulty, it can cause a range of issues, including overheating, reduced power, and engine failure.

Understanding the Serpentine Belt Diagram

The 2009 Dodge Journey 3.5 serpentine belt diagram is a detailed illustration that shows the exact routing of the belt around the various engine components. It's important to understand this diagram if you need to replace the serpentine belt, as it can be difficult to identify the correct routing without it. The diagram typically includes a legend that identifies each engine component and the pulley that it connects to. It may also include arrows that show the direction of the belt's rotation.

Replacing the Serpentine Belt

If you need to replace the serpentine belt on your 2009 Dodge Journey 3.5, it's important to follow the manufacturer's guidelines closely to ensure a safe and successful replacement. Here are the basic steps involved in replacing the serpentine belt:

• Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental electrical shock.
• Locate the tensioner pulley and use a wrench or socket to release tension on the belt.
• Remove the old belt and route the new belt according to the serpentine belt diagram.
• Apply tension to the belt using the tensioner pulley and tighten the pulley bolt to secure the belt in place.
• Reconnect the negative battery cable and start the engine to test the new belt.

Tips for Maintaining Your Serpentine Belt

To keep your 2009 Dodge Journey 3.5 serpentine belt in good condition, it's important to perform regular maintenance and inspection. Here are some tips to help you maintain your serpentine belt:

• Check the belt for signs of wear, including cracks, fraying, and missing pieces.
• Check the tension of the belt to ensure it's not too loose or too tight.
• Replace the belt every 60,000 to 100,000 miles or as recommended by the manufacturer.
• Use a high-quality replacement belt that matches the manufacturer's specifications.
• Follow the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule to ensure optimal performance of all engine components.

The 2009 Dodge Journey 3.5 serpentine belt diagram is a crucial resource for understanding the routing of the serpentine belt and replacing it safely and effectively. By following the manufacturer's recommended guidelines and performing regular maintenance and inspection, you can help extend the life of your serpentine belt and keep your vehicle running smoothly.

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2009 DODGE JOURNEY SXT Replacement Belt | 3.5L Engine: SERPENTINE AC ALT PS

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2009 DODGE JOURNEY SXT Replacement Belt

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Serpentine Belt Check on a 2010 Dodge Journey SXT 3.5L V6

Dodge journey model years - 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019.

1. Getting Started - Prepare for the repair

2. Open the Hood - How to pop the hood and prop it open

3. Check Serpentine Belts - Determine the proper amount of 'give'

4. More Info. - Additional thoughts on checking the serpentine belts

Hans Angermeier is an ASE certified Maintenance and Light Repair Technician and has produced over 100,000 videos showing drivers how to fix things on their cars. He has broad expertise on basic repair procedures covering the majority of cars on the road. Over the past 10 years, Hans has been focused on building CarCareKiosk, which is visited by millions of drivers each month.

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The video above shows how to check the serpentine belt on your 2010 Dodge Journey - if it gives more than a half inch when pressed, is cracked, frayed or appears shiny, you should change it (or have it changed) immediately. Worn serpentine belt noise in a Journey can indicate impending problems if ignored, while typically being fairly cheap and easy to replace. Depending on your engine, the serpentine belt replacement cost is between $100 and $200. Most vehicles do not need a special serpentine belt tool, but rather a 1/2" breaker bar and a socket on the serpentine belt tensioner to relieve the tension from the belt. Check out our parts page for coupons on new belts for your Journey!

The serpentine belt in your Journey connects your engine to many of the components you use every day such as your air conditioner, battery (via the alternator), power steering and cooling system - a quick look at the serpentine belt diagram outline all of the components feeding from it. Serpentine belt vs timing belt? The timing belt connects the crankshaft to the camshaft, thus making sure the pistons and valves are operating in the correct sequence. The timing belt will often drive the water pump too. Since the timing belt is deeper in the engine, it is often much more expensive to replace than the serpentine belt. Not all vehicles have a timing belt (they typically have a timing chain instead), whereas all modern vehicles have a serpentine belt. As such, you may experience a dead battery, difficulty steering, overheating, etc. that might be due to a worn belt, not a faulty component! If your Journey is one of those Dodges that shrieks horrendously when it runs, you likely have a worn belt, bad tensioner or both.

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3.5L timing belt and water pump replacement

• timing belt

By JDennis February 5, 2018 in Maintenance & D.Y.I.

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I haven't seen much in the way of more involved repair walkthroughs on forums for Journeys, so after replacing the timing belt and water pump on the wife's car I figured I'd write one to benefit others in the future. 

It is a significant savings to do this job yourself, and not terribly difficult if you've ever changed an alternator or other minor mechanical work. 

Background: The wife messaged me at work that the Journey was making a funny sound. I drove it and heard nothing. It would seemingly come and go at will. It turned out to the timing belt tensioner  had disintegrated. The internals were just floating around behind the timing cover . The front metal plate that at one time held the bearings was laying against the crank pulley when I opened it up, the rear plate was chewed up and mangled, and the bearings we're distributed at random throughout.

The job requires few specialty tools, which if you do not currently own, will potentially save you money down the road and, even if you must purchase them all at the time of the job, will still come out cheaper than paying a mechanic, or worse the dealership.

Job could take anywhere from a few hours for someone with experience to a full day, so set aside some time if this is your first time doing it. Apologies for the lengthy read, but I tried to be as descriptive as possible. Unfortunately I did not think to take photos while I was doing it.

What you need:

- Timing belt - Tensioner Pulley - Water Pump - Hydraulic Tensioner

Required tools:

- Harmonic Balancer Puller ($30 or so on Amazon) - E12 external torx socket (try to find as short of a socket as possible, there is not a lot of space to work) - T40 torx socket (again, shortest possible is better. Walmart used to carry a set made by Great Neck which were much shorter than any others I own. They're not great tools, but the bolt it will be used on does not require a lot of torque) - 10mm box wrench and socket - 13mm box wrench and socket - 15mm box wrench and socket - 16mm box wrench and socket - 18mm box wrench and socket - 24mm socket - 1/2" Impact wrench - 3/8" ratchet - Flathead screwdriver - Hammer - Pliers - Jack - Jackstands - small piece of wood (6" 2x4, 6" 1x4, small cube of plywood etc.) - shallow fluid catch pan

Optional tools ( but good to have):

- Slim head ratchet - Paint pen, nail polish, white out or other marking device that works on rubber, steel and aluminum. - Spring clamp

Start by parking on a flat level surface, with the vehicle in park, parking break set, and place wheel chocks in front and back of the rear wheels. 

Jack the vehicle up and place your jackstands. Check to make sure the jackstand feet are all touching the ground and that the vehicle is securely supported by them.

Remove the passenger wheel, and plastic belly pan if installed (Ours hasn't had the belly pan since we've owned it).

Lower your Jack and move it underneath the engine on the passenger side. Place your block of wood between the oil pan and the Jack and raise it until it is just touching the oil pan.

You can follow the recommended procedure for draining the coolant now, or... Just place your catch pan under the lower radiator hose and pull the lower hose off. 

While that is draining, remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the coolant reservoir in place, and the 1 13mm bolt holding the power steering reservoir. Lift the coolant reservoir and using your pliers, slide the clamps holding the lines back and remove the lines. Bend the lines out of the way and set the reservoir to the side. Thread the bolts back into their holes so they do not get misplaced.

Remove the 3 18mm bolts and 2 10mm bolts holding the upper right engine mount . Set it to the side and lay the bolts in the holes so they do not get misplaced.

Slide underneath the vehicle and remove the 2 long 18mm bolts holding the front lower center engine mount . Remove the rubber grommets, place them on the bolts and set the bolts in a location where they will not lost. You can remove the 4 or 5 bolts in the rear of the mount as well to allow more movement, but in my experience it wasn't necessary.

Using a 15mm box wrench lift the serpentine belt tensioner and remove the serpentine belt . Loosen the 15, or 16mm bolt that holds the tensioner arm in place. It only needs to come out enough to allow the alignment tab to be pulled out, and the tensioner arm pivoted up and down.

Remove the serpentine belt idler pulley.

Remove the 5 10mm bolts and 1 13mm bolt from the cast aluminum timing inspection cover. Place it to the side and lay the bolts in the holes so they do not get misplaced.

With your impact, remove the 18mm bolt securing the harmonic balancer to the crankshaft. Remove two of the small silver pivot bolts from your puller and attach the puller to the harmonic balancer. Slide the longer of the two rods into the puller bolt, grease the threads of the puller bolt, and thread it into the puller. Make sure the rod slides into the cavity on the crankshaft. Use a 24mm socket and your impact to remove the harmonic balancer. Set the harmonic balancer to the side and lubricate and thread the 18mm bolt back into the crankshaft. It only has to be flush with the crank gear and hand tight at this point, but you are going to be using it to turn the crank later.

From here in you will begin having to raise and lower the Jack supporting the engine periodically to create space to work.

Remove the 3 E12 external torx bolts from the power steering pump and slide it towards the front of the engine bay.

Remove the (I forget how many) 10mm bolts, use a deep 15mm socket or box wrench to remove the nut over the stud, and use your T40 socket to remove the one bolt that was behind the serpentine belt tensioner from the timing cover . 

Slide the timing cover over the stud and wiggle it out through the top. You may need to adjust the engine position to create space to get it out, be careful not to bend the cover.

With all of the timing belt components in place, rotate the crank shaft by hand until the arrow on the back of the crank pulley lines up with the arrow on the engine. Do not confuse the arrow on the back of the pulley with the notch on the face of the pulley. 

Check your cam gear to see if the lines on the cam gears line up with the marks on the bracket. If no lines are visible by the marks, look at the bottom of the pulleys, they are likely 180 degrees out. If that is the case, rotate the crank once more by hand until all marks line up.

At this point I like to use some brake cleaner and an air hose to clean everything up and blow any debris out. In my case the tensioner pulley had grenaded and the ball bearings as well as various other particles we're scattered throughout. Make sure you get everything cleaned out, so it doesn't end up damaging your new belt or components.

I also like to use a paint pen to clearly mark the timing marks so they are easy to identify.

Remove the 2 13mm bolts holding the tensioner in place and slide it towards the axleshaft and out of it's hole and discard. Remove the old timing belt and discard.

Place your new water pump face up  on a level surface. Remove (again, I forget how many) 10mm bolts securing the water pump. The bolts are two different lengths, so as you remove them from the old water pump, place them in the corresponding hole on the new water pump so you can keep track of where they go. 

Using a Flathead screwdriver and a hammer, gently tap the screwdriver under the face of the water pump and rotate it to pry the water pump free. Be careful not to mar the mounting surface on the engine. If you create a small bur, one the engine face you can use the hammer and screwdriver to tap it flat again, you just want the mounting surface to be clean, flat, and free from defects.

Place the old water pump next to the new one and transfer the bolts into their corresponding holes.

Check that the gasket for the new  water pump is firmly in place. Put the new water pump in place and finger tighten the bolts until they are snug. I could not find a specific order to tighten the bolts, but you want to jump around as you tighten them, criss crossing over the pump pulley. Do not start from one and go clockwise/counterclockwise. You want an even force to be applied so the gasket seals properly.

Remove the 15 or 16mm bolt holding the tensioner pulley to the tensioner arm. Install the new pulley.

Install the timing belt. Starting at the crank, I like to push a 1/4" ratchet handle to keep tension on the belt and pulley. Doesn't have to be wedged in hard, just enough to keep the teeth in place so they don't slip. 

Next slip the belt over the front pulley (right as you are facing it). You may have to rotate it clockwise slightly with an 18mm wrench when you slip the belt on and then push it counterclockwise to take up the slack. Just keep a controlled grip on the wrench and make slight adjustments. 

If you have some small spring clips you can use then here to keep the belt from sliding off of the cam gear or changing position, it doesn't have to be strong, in fact you want it to be a light grip to keep from damaging the cam gears which can be brittle, just enough to keep the teeth engaged.

When the belt is in place with slack taken up, slide it under the water pump pulley and over the rear (left as you are facing it) cam pulley. 

Slide the new hydraulic tensioner into place and lubricate and hand thread the bolts enough to get them started. You may need to adjust the grenade pin slightly, if it is pushed through and sticking out of the rear of the tensioner it will not be able to fit through the hole.

Slip the belt over the tensioner pulley and tighten the tensioner bolts just enough that you can still slide the belt off of the tensioner pulley .

Using a paint pen or other marking device, mark the cam pulleys and belt at a tooth location that will not be confused with the timing marks.

Tighten the tensioner bolts and check timing mark alignment. If anything has shifted, take note of how far off it is (1 tooth, 2teeth, etc)  slack the bolts and adjust belt position accordingly using the marks you made.

When the tensioner is firmly bolted in place and all marks line up correctly, remove the grenade pin. Check timing marks again. If they are not lined up, remove the tensioner and compress it using a vise or large c-clamp and reinstall the pin.

If all of your marks line up, place a 18mm wrench on the crank bolt and rotate the crank by hand for two full turns. Check your timing marks again. If they are off, remove the tensioner as described above and start over. If they line up correctly you are done.

Reassemble timing covers etc in reverse order. Refill coolant, purge air and the job is done.

I was unable to find torque specs specifically for the Journey, but did find some other vehicles that came with the 3.5L which had torque specs posted. 

I know there are some YouTube videos covering this procedure, but the videos tend to jump from step to step and I like having a written procedure to reference.

• JimBobLeNob

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I'm on the fence about recommending OEM parts for the job. In all of my years working on cars I've never personally seen a tensioner pulley  come apart like that... 

I would however recommend purchasing quality parts from a reputable manufacturer at your own discretion, and purchasing all of the parts listed, as it is a time consuming job, a bit of a PITA because there's not much room to work, and you only want to do it once rather than keep going back to replace those parts you opted not to change.

Optionally you may wish to add cam and crank seals to your list. My wife's Journey was bone dry behind the timing cover , and I've never seen those seals leak enough to be of consequence. In my own experience, by the time they need replacing the engine  will likely be due for a rebuild or the scrapyard.

Left out coolant  as well, Zerex G-05

I'm surprised the the camshaft didnt skip and ruin a few valves in the process....guess you were lucky

Both cams were off one tooth. Timing belt  had two small vertical cuts on opposing ends about 10mm from the edge but otherwise in good condition. Tensioner outter ring was still riding on the inner, so maybe 8mm shorter? But the tensioner was now fully extended so maybe slightly less difference under no load or light load. Was enough to keep it going after failure, but if it went on any longer it'd be toast.

How many miles when this happened?  Sounds like a PIA job....

110k, it was due. Also swapped the fuel pump  module out today to fix the fuel level sending unit.

Messed with the original unit once I had it out to see why it quit working. The ground wire had an open... Was just insulation holding it to the terminal. They also didn't bother to actually strip any wire when they crimped the connectors on. 

Doesn't much surprise me since one of the coolant  fittings was only screwed in hand tight as well and backed out.

figure I'll rewire the old unit, solder the connections and keep it as a spare.

of note, the replacement module I got was molded differently. The alignment tab was slightly counterclockwise of where it should be, and the locking tabs for the plug we're not placed correctly.

being as I was already knee deep in it, I trimmed to fit and drove on.

car is check engine  light free again for the time being.

• larryl and 2late4u

• 9 months later...

Just finished this job up along with replacing all the motor and trans mounts. 

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Serpentine Belt Routing Diagrams

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What's that squeal coming from under the hood?

The noise started a few months ago, on a rainy morning, but it went away before I even pulled out of the driveway. Problem solved, right? Nope! The Squeal noise was back the very next morning, and this time it lasted all the way to the corner of my block. I lifted the hood and focused in on the horrible racket—it was the serpentine belt. As the weeks dragged on, my morning commute got noisier and noisier every day. Then I began to hear it on the way home too. Now it's a constant reminder to replace the belt. Soon.

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step by step instructions on how to replace the Serpentine Belt

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Hi All, Does anyone have the step by step instructions on how to replace the Serpentine Belt? I want to do my own but do not want to reverse the belt pattern or pull the wrong pulleys to loosen the belt.  

We're about to leave. If you don't get a response before we get home, I'll post the information from the Haynes Manual.  

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serpentine belt

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Where can I find a diagram of the serpentine belt for a 2009 dodge charger 3.5 sxt? I need to fix the car so I don't lose my job. I appreciate all the help I can get. Thanks so much. :<(  

Google  

Apparently that’s too hard for some on this site. God forbid we search it ourselves. Hahaha. And now all the butthurt comments begin  

http://www.serpentinebeltdiagram.co...-2009-dodge-charger-v6-35-liter-engine-02315/  

Thank you so much for your reply and help. :>}  

Serpentine belt diagram I just want to thank you very much for your reply and help. :>)  

This is not for a SXT. Thanks anyways for trying.  

Serpentine belt diagram The diagram for the serpentine belt is "not" for an SXT. The belt diagram is not for all 2009 dodge chargers V6 3.5. Thanks anyways for trying.  

I know how to install a serpentine belt, as far as which side faces up and which side faces down. I'm 72 and can quickly forget something I just did 10 minutes ago. Thank you for your reply and help.  

Neil said: I'm 72 and can quickly forget something I just did 10 minutes ago. Click to expand...

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2010 journey 3.5 serpentine belt diagram - 2010 Dodge Journey

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• Posted on May 28, 2009

SOURCE: serpentine belt diagram 2007 dodge 5.9 3500

get the belt routing from the local dealer. they will not charge alot of money for a reprint from the factory service manual. also dayco belts come with the belt routing on the box.

• Posted on Jul 18, 2008

SOURCE: serpentine belt diagram:

The belt routing diagram is located on the top radiator cross member by the hood latch. You should see it when you open the hood. If it is not there, all Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth minivans, from 1993 to at least 1999, used the same 3.3L engine setup, so find someone with one and look for the diagram where I described.

• Posted on Jan 17, 2009

SOURCE: need diagram for 2000 dodge dakota serpentine belt

On the 1999 Dakota with the 3.9liter, the fan shroud absolutely DOES NOT have to be removed. Very simple job. Simply use a breaker bar with a 15mm socket on the belt tesioner pulley nut. Using the breaker bar push (as though tightening) the pulley nut...the reaction will be that the tensioner removes tension from the pulley and the entire belt can be removed by easily slipping it toward the front of the vehicle...comes right off. The new belt can go back on in exactly the same manner. By the way the belt routing diagram IS CONVIENENTLY LOCATED between the hood latch and the radiator mounting for simple and quick refernce...one person job, I did removal and installation four times in less than 10 minutes. (why four times? The auto parts store was selling replacement belts that were too long and did not allow the belt tensioner to provide suffiecient tension...I had to try four different manufacturers before the tensioner was adequately tight with room to grow as the belt naturally stretches from use.). I found no stringing around the fan is required because of the way the belt is routed (it doglegs around the main engine pulley which is centered below the fanhousing and then the belt runs from there to the left side of the fan housing...avoiding the fan/fanhousing all-together (sure you can try to go past the fan/fan housing if you so desire...but you dont have to...and besides the space between the pulleys and the fan is ample to allow the belt to pass between with minimal interference or a simple rotation of the fan as you attempt this method. One hint that made my installs easy as pie...the last pulley you put it over should not be a bezeled and ridged pulley or you will needlessly make life difficult for yourself...the last pulley should be the water pump pulley which is a smooth bore and non-ridged pulley (makes you wonder how the belt even stays on it!)...making it easy as pie to slip it right over...as your last act of defiance to that mean old serpentine belt!

• 10515 Answers
• Posted on Jun 04, 2009

SOURCE: diagram for serpentine belt for 2001 dodge stratus

Hi, There would be 2 links you can refer :- http://autorepair.about.com/library/weekly/aa071205b.htm http://www.serpentinebeltdiagram.com/ These 2 links would help you to have an idea that would really help you to fix this. Copy and paste the above links in browser and click enter. Any further help, let me know. Thanks for using "Fixya".

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• Posted on Nov 17, 2009

SOURCE: I need a serpentine belt diagram for adodge

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2009 Dodge Journey

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