chrysler voyager 2.4 forum

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plym voyager 2.4

Discussion in 'Voyager' started by maint-man, Jun 29, 2005 .

maint-man Guest

The other day my van would not start and still will not,when i run the codes it comes up 42 so I replaced the auto shutoff relay but still no luck any comments or help would be great.  

Dave Gower Guest

maint-man said: The other day my van would not start and still will not,when i run the codes it comes up 42 so I replaced the auto shutoff relay but still no luck any comments or help would be great. Click to expand...

Rabbitdog Guest

Does it crank and just doesn't start or is it not even cranking? If it isn't cranking and the battery is OK and you have about 60,000 or more miles than it's probably your starter.  

Its a 96 and it has 80.000 miles it cranks fine just does not start  

maint-man said: Its a 96 and it has 80.000 miles it cranks fine just does not start Click to expand...

TomKan Guest

He said, and I qoute, "ts a 96 and it has 80.000 miles it cranks fine just does not start ."  

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Problems with 1998 grand voyager check engine light - the saga continues, high pitched "tone" 97 plymouth grand voyager, abs problem - 1991 plymouth grand voyager 3.3 l, 1991 plymouth voyager - a/c compressor noise, '95 voyager turn/washer/dip switch question-, what model years can i use for my 92 plym. grd. voy., how much time to change the timing belt on plym. sundance 91, plym voyager transmission.

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Removing shaft pulley (Chrysler Voyager 2.4 gasoline).

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Impact wrench. And then you need a puller. Local parts store should loan the puller.  

I don´t have a impact wrench, the puller I already have. Just in case, does this bolt loose in usual direction? Thank You!  

You want to turn the bolt CCW to loosen (normal thread). A jerking motion on the breaker bar (like hammer blows) may start the bolt to loosen rather than a steady unscrewing force.  

In my case, probably the best bet at moment. Maybe I have to start thinking about creating some kind of tool myself to prevent this pulley from spinning. It might help to start applying force slowly with a long wrench. For example, using some kind of steel chain and a strong bolt and nut to fix the movement of the pulley.  

You can also do an old mechanic's trick. Wedge the bar in the direction the engine turns, disconnect the coil pack connector so the engine can't start. Use the starter to break the bolt loose.  

You beat me to it, 85lebaront2! I've always done it that way. Just stand clear so the breaker bar doesn't fly off and hit you in the shins or ankles! Usually just a small bump of the starter is all it takes.  

Many thanks to everyone! I already used this trick to put the wrench on and then turn the ignition key. The wrench flew off, many times, even when I tied the wrench. Seems that this bolt is really stubborn in this case. I will continue this job later, really need get it loose and shaft pulley away. I have worked with different kind of cars, repaired them at home, but the shaft bolt on this one is seriously stubborn, usually they really are much easier to remove.  

You have to make sure you have the wrench braced on the correct side on the ground. Sounds to me like you're bracing it on the wrong side. You have to brace it on the left side of the crank shaft, not the right side. If you're looking directly at the crank shaft, brace the wrench in the 7 to 8 o'clock position. If your breaker bar isn't long enough to touch the ground in that position, then put a cheater pipe on it. I've never come across one in 50+ years of doing this that wouldn't break loose.  

installer28 said: I got it, bolt is out. It was necessary to apply a lot of force, the engine tended to shift in all directions. But now it's about getting the pulley off, I almost broke the puller, I need to keep inventing. I think that someone has pressed very hard at some point. I don't think it's normal, but it doesn't matter, the work needs to be done. If anyone knows a trick to get a stuck shaft pulley off, that would be helpful. Click to expand...

Hopefully it won’t be as stubborn as this!  

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2003 Chrysler Voyager Transmission problem

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The transmission on my 2003 Voyager van went out at a stop light. No prior warning, nothing. Was running fine. Now there's no forward or reverse UNTIL it gets revved up, then it goes into gear once the engine rpm's goes down. Then it kicks into gear. (Applying gas is like having it in neutral: Nothing but the motor revving up.) Fluid level & color is ok. No leaks are visable. Can't get code's because it will cost $100 to have it towed to auto parts store/garage. My question is: Could this be the Transmission Control Module and/or Transmission Solenoid gone bad? Replacing either of these would be preferable to replacing the entire transmission. (I can do both of these at under $300). Also it has a 2.4L DOHC 4 cyl engine. And is there anywhere on the vehicle that can tell me what size/type of transmission this van has? Any suggestions/advice? Thanks. Chris Harrach Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/p...yager-transmission-problem.html#ixzz2WULMvPdR  

Welcome to the forum, How many miles ?? Have you serviced the transmission before?? Is the delay in engagement worse in cold weather?? First thing to do is to drop the pan and inspect the magnet for metal shavings. Then change the filter and add fresh ATF+4. I think you may have a clogged tranny filter.  

Since you say the engine is a 2.4 then most likely you have a 31TH transmission not a 41TE transmission that was typically mated with 3.3 and 3.8 engines. Unlike 41TE transmission, 31TH is a fully mechanical transmission with the exception of TCC solenoid (which is irrelevant in this case as it would not prevent the transmission from engaging). Based on your description, the issue is most likely with the "governor" or one of the valves in the valve body (rather than a gradual wear out). Apparently governor is a common failure point of 31TH transmission. From quick google search, it appears that governor (as well as the valve body) are replaceable without dropping the transmission. Again, 31TH is not an electronic transmission and does not have an electronic controller. The only electronic part to it is the TCC solenoid and controller, but that would not prevent it from going into gear  

Thanks for the info regarding the transmission in this van. Im not a transmission guy. The closest Ive come to working on drivetrains was rebuilding the differential in my Explorer. However I still have a few questions. One concerns the Governor valve/switch/solenoid and the Valve body. Im assuming that both of these are accessable thru the bottom of the transmission when I change out the filter & fluid..Is this all a single unit or are they in 2 or 3 seperate parts? Also, the condition I described where the transmission acts as if its in neutral when I apply gas, before it decides to engage. Is that the "Limp Mode" I keep reading about? And since Im at it, would it be a good idea to go ahead and switch out the Transmission Solenoid while Im at it. I believe that this isnt the original tranny. Thanks in advance. Regards Chris.  

3 speed trans was never used in a 4th generation van  

I believe the 31TH transmission was used in the 2001 and early 2002 4th gens with the 2.4 4cyl  

Is the transmission solenoid leaking? Limp mode is when the transmission is stuck in second gear. Before you do anything else, do a drop and fill in the transmission and replace the filter and fluid with ATF+4 only. Most likely you have a clogged filter.  

Please diregard my comments about 31TH transmission -- on the 4th generation, 31TH was used only up to 2002 model year. Yours being an '03, definitely has 41TE electronic tranny...  

Thanks for the update on the tranny ID. Im outside now dropping the pan & changing the filter & fluid. Since this is a 41TE tranny, this would make this an electronic transmission, right? So would I be wrong in not changing the TCM and the Transmission Control Solenoid? Again thanks for the information you've provided me so far. Its been a big help. Regards Chris.  

I just changed the filter & fluid in this van. It looed like it hadn't been done in awhile. The fluid color was pretty dark but still red ( more like dark red wine but not burnt.) There was metal shavings in the bottom of the pan, which didn't fill me with a lot of confidence, but Im assuming that a certain amount of metal particles would be normal, so long as there wern't any really large chunks . Im not a transmission guy so I really dont know if this is normal wear & tear or not. Anyone have any thoughts? As soon as the gasket sealer sets a little more Im going to fill it up and see if Ive cured my problem. Fingers crossed. Chris H.  

Yes, Fine shavings are fine but big chunks are not. So most probably your filter was clogged. The bad thing that was happening was the slam into gear when you rev the engine. That's why you have plenty of shavings. Just fill it up and make sure not to overfill. Hopefully will run fine.  

Well so far so good. The van runs like new. No discernible problems or leaks and it shifts through the gears sooth as silk. However Im taking it easy so it has time to adjust. Since this is not the original tranny in this van, what would be the recommended milage to run it before I change the filter an fluid? I dont want a repeat of what happened last week. Regards Chris.  

That's an encouraging report so far! Dropping the pan gets about half of the fluid changed, and thereby "improves" the remaining half. Because you found metal shavings, it's important to at least drop the pan once or even twice again very soon, to improve the overall fluid even further. Better still would be a NON-POWER flush using the vehicle's own pump to replace all of the fluid. If you're not comfortable doing that transfer job, then do the pan drop(s) instead. But under no circumstances allow a shop to do a power flush on your van. Good luck with it!  

I don't see any mention of a magnet in your transmission pan. If not, best to put one there per OE or place one on the outside. For ATF+4, color and odor don't mean much. The stuff stinks and changes color anyway. Chrysler has a bulletin on that. You can do a "blotter test" on the old fluid. Here's a Thread mentioning the color, odor and blotter test: http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/sh...ission-Fluid-Today-Slight-Dark-Color-On-Paper Some info on how your transmission operates. You didn't, by any chance, have it overfilled (easy to do). http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/4803-Tranny-slow-to-engage-in-drive-when-cold  

2003 Chrysler Voyager Transmission problem (Update.) Thanks for the reply & information about the fluid. The tranny pan did have a magnet that was covered in gray sludge. (It looked like a small hairy grey mop. Yuck!!) Anyway I cleaned it all up reinstalled, and filled it with 4 quarts of Castrol ATF-4 Transmission fluid, specifically for Chrysler. I double checked and the fluid capacity was 4 quarts. As I mentioned earlier, Im not sure when I should repeat this procedure. I think I read at every 30,000 miles. Is that correct, or should it be done a little past that? 50,000 or 70,000 miles? Not looking forward to repeating this soon, but it's a heck of a lot preferable to having to replace the tranny. And I still have to do this & an oil change for my Explorer next week. Oh Joy :blink: Regards, Chris  

Hey cvguy! Thanks for the reply. Ive never heard of using the vehicles own pump to replace the fluid. How is this done? And since I'm about to do an oil change AND transmission filter & fluid change on my Explorer, is this something that can be done for all vehicles, or is this specific to Chrysler vehicles? Regards, Chris  

Chris H. said: ... Ive never heard of using the vehicles own pump to replace the fluid. How is this done? .... Click to expand...

How did your filter look? You can pump the fluid out to achieve replacing the fluid. Filter should be good for a couple of fluid changes. ATF+4 is actually a 120,000 mile to lifetime synthetic product versus the old ATF+3 that wasn't synthetic.. I find these little $5.00 pumps work good for pumping out coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid and differential fluid (Jeep). I haven't tried it on the transmission fluid yet but will be doing so in the next week using the vinyl tube down the dipstick tube. There are more expensive pumps (electric) available plus a pump you can use your drill to provide power for. Siphon Pump with 6-Feet Hose: http://www.amazon.com/Buffalo-Tools-SP6-Sportsman-Series/dp/B005VPU3T2/ref=pd_sim_sbs_misc_12 Make sure it has a check valve of some sort. You can hold the red pump vertically in the air, pump the hose full of fluid, and then put the other end of the red pump in a container. Works pretty slick for $5.00. Similar to a pan drop for fluid removal (quantity).  

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• Voyager 4th Generation (2001-2007)

Speedometer Not Working!

Asked by Foggieloon , October 2, 2017

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Hi everyone,

I have a 2007 2.4 Executive Voyager in black.

The speedometer is not working but all other gauges are working fine.

It is not the needle at wrong side of stop problem and re-calibration has no effect.

My local garage has had a look at the issue but they were unable to rectify it.

They ruled out sensors and fuses!

Is there anything I can check without incurring heavy garage charges to trace the fault?

My electrical knowledge is somewhat limited and any clear guidance in this matter would be much appreciated.

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Hi, is it manual or automatic?

The picture attached is for manual and is located on one of the drive shafts.

Was tat checked, assuming is manual.

Hope it helps.

It didn't upload the picture...

Try the link bellow to see it.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/263215901443?chn=ps&dispItem=1&adgroupid=42825902799&rlsatarget=pla-326572628373&abcId=1129006&adtype=pla&merchantid=113588561&poi=&googleloc=9045715&device=m&campaignid=861899693&crdt=0&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F710-134428-41853-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.co.uk%25252Fi%25252F263215901443%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526dispItem%25253D1%2526itemid%253D263215901443%2526targetid%253D326572628373%2526device%253Dm%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9045715%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D861899693%2526adgroupid%253D42825902799%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-326572628373%2526abcId%253D1129006%2526merchantid%253D113588561%2526gclid%253DCjwKCAjw6szOBRAFEiwAwzixBa4IV2op-46dvDkW67mDN3o9rXJpHOfzu0N4HunhJ0WBt6_83VxQdxoCJecQAvD_BwE%2526srcrot%253D710-134428-41853-0%2526rvr_id%253D1325712596398

Thanks for the fast response.

The vehicle is a 2.4 manual petrol.

I have attached the garage report and it seems they they have checked the sensor?

they also supplied me with known fixes for this problem also attached

Mine was looking same as the one that I replaced with, did they remove the sensor or just tested..?

A manual car will not go into limp mode because of the speed sensor, an auto probably.

Mine was identical with the replacement one, the difference (not visible by eye) is the plastic gear was worn and not engaging with the shaft...

I don't remember where I put the old one but if I find it I'll upload a picture so you can see there is no difference.

Is wither that or the gears o the shaft...is very unlikely but if you have access to a second driveshaft try replacing it...

The vehicle does not go into limp mode.

You may be right about the sensor. It may be worth purchasing a new sensor.

Is it a pig of a job?

I have a workshop manual on cd

and a haynes manual.

Is not difficult, a bit of oil will come out, it can always be refilled. I got one from scrap yard, if I remember well was £8 or £10... It is held by one bolt( again if I remember well) 10mm size.

When you fit the "new" one, play it a little bit or move the shaft slightly left and right so it settles in properly..

Hope you sort it.

Hi Mike, Thanks for the fast response. The vehicle is a 2.4 manual petrol. I have attached the garage report and it seems they they have checked the sensor? they also supplied me with known fixes for this problem also attached

On the first picture it says road test, did that involve a diagnostic machine hooked to the ECU and the speed came up?!?!

Hi Mike, The vehicle does not go into limp mode. You may be right about the sensor. It may be worth purchasing a new sensor. Is it a pig of a job? I have a workshop manual on cd and a haynes manual. cheers

Hi foggieloon.

I had a similar problem with my GV.

It started with an intermittent speed reading, that sometimes stuck at 55mph and if you went over a bump the needle would jump up to 70mph.

Then wouldn't work at all.

I traced this down to a bad connection from the speedo (tacho) needle connections to the circuit board.

It's an easy fix, I just soldered the block back onto the pcb and carried out the dash self calibration then happy days, it's not let me down since ?

I hope this helps.

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Chrysler Voyager 2.4 transistor question

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Thread: Chrysler Voyager 2.4 transistor question

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I have Chrysler Voyager 2.4 petrol running only on 2 cylinders. Problem is in coil transistors (has been repaired few years before by some guy). The problem is I can't find any datasheets for these buggers. Can somebody point me in the right direction? Here's what I can read from transistors: Transistor #1: MG B2 0N36CL (or ON36CL, not sure) R852 (or RB52, not sure) *Motorola sign* Transistor #2: 20CL36 H114 BBT Here is some info about these transistors in Sirius 32, go figure ... 20N36 - replacement for 20CL36, 20C36 from Renault Sirius32 motor ECU Thanks in advance!

The original type is MGB20N36, is hard to find. I use HGTP14N40 This is the datasheet

Thank you very much! I have two more questions: 1) Do you know how to test the old ones with a multimeter? 2) Do you know where to buy HGT1S20N36G3VL in Europe? Thanks in advance!

Hi I have this same problem with Chrysler Voyager 2.4l Benzin. Running only 2 cylinders. I need MOSFET transistor symbol 745809. What use exchangeable transistor. Please Help

i use an atlas DCA55 SEMICONDUCTOR ANALYSER good tool but "google" test with dmm but easier with analogue mm Peak Electronic Design Limited - Atlas DCA - Semiconductor Analyser - Model DCA55 but the atlas saves time and shows gate and details of npn ect so no looking up datasheet handy tool if you see a few boards to test ?

Last edited by racin-snake; 8th February, 2011 at 10:11 PM .

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i have problem with transitor for injector transistor is motorola 723 what is his equivalent best regards

Originally Posted by gka_3 Hi I have this same problem with Chrysler Voyager 2.4l Benzin. Running only 2 cylinders. I need MOSFET transistor symbol 745809. What use exchangeable transistor. Please Help best replace - 14C40L

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[Présentation] Voyager 2.4 SE

Par Invité §Rom404zB, 9 août 2010 dans Voyager

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Invité §rom404zb.

Nous avons depuis mardi dernier un Chrysler Voyager IV.2 essence 2.4 150ch de août 2004.

Il a 70000 kms , je vais essayer de vous le présenter en détails.

Par exemple, a 30 kms/h on ne sait pas trop si faut rester en première ou alors passer la seconde, on est un peu entre deux vitesses.

Sur la route, à 90 kms/h en 4 éme, on est à seulement 2400 tours. Avec la Clio (1.4 16v 98ch) ou le Sorento (CRDI 140ch) c'était 3000 tours en 5éme.

Une boîte 6 vitesses serait complètement inutile. Franchement l'étagement me convient bien, dommage qu'elle soit un peu trop dur cette boite,... question d'habitude.

Nous avons fait 750 kms depuis une semaine dont les 3/4 d'autoroute, j'ai pas calculé la consommation, l'ordinateur de bord, qui n'est pas spécialement bien placé au niveau du toit, nous a dis 10.2 litres aux 100 kms, en roulant a environ 130 kms . A vous d'en déduire si c'est bien ou pas, moi je trouve ça correct.

Caractéristiques techniques :

Moteur 4 cylindres, 16 soupapes.

Cylindrée : 2429 cm3

Alésage x course : 87.5 x 101

Puissance : 147 ch à 5200 tr/min. (fiscale : 10CV)

Couple : 218 Nm à 4000 tr/min.

Boîte 5 vitesses.

Freins à disques (ventilés à l'avant).

Pneumatiques : 215/65 HR 16. Goodyear à l'avant, Michelin à l'arrière (Goodyear à l'origine).

Empattement : 2.88 m

Dimensions : 4.8 (L) x 2.0 (l) x 1.75 (h)

Volume de coffre : de 444 à 4080 dm3.

Reservoir : 75 litres.

Poids : 1830 kg.

Vitesse maxi : 183 kms/h.

0 à 100 kms/h en 12.4 secondes.

Consommations : 8.1 (ext-urbain), 13.6 (urbain), 9.9 (mixte) litres/100 kms.

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• Réponses 59
• Dernière réponse 13 a

Vie à bord :

Au début je trouvais l'interieur un poil démodé pour une auto de 6 ans.

Les commandes de climatisation, de feux et de radio sont simples, au début ça fait un peu peur et puis c'est très facile à utiliser, tout l'inverse de la Clio 3 par exemple, pour la climatisation.

D'ailleurs celle ci est très éfficace, la plus efficace que j'ai utilisé jusqu'alors.

Ce qui est à mes yeux bien démodé ce sont les sièges avec leurs tissus sobre mais triste, assez plat et avec des appuis tête "creux", la boîte de vitesse qui doit surement venir d'un utilitaire et la majorité des plastiques, mais ça ne me dérange pas du tout, surtout que si ils sont durs, ils resistent très bien aux rayures et il n'y a pas la moindre vibration sur route dégradé ou au dela de 150 kms/h.

Question confort, c'est franchement bien ! C'est très bien insonorisé, on entends quasiment pas le moteur, il n'y a pas de bruit d'air, la clim est silencieuse.

Les sièges avant sont confortables, les fauteuils à l'arriere un peu moins (trop dur à mon goût, une des raisons pour mon attirance pour les anciennes, les sièges sont bien souples) mais on reste relativement bien installé avec les accoudoirs de chaque coté. Je n'ai pas essayé la banquette 3 places.

Equipement :

Console avec ordinateur de bord.

Climatisation automatique bi-zone.

Autoradio CD.

Airbags frontaux, latéraux et rideaux.

ABS + anti-patinage.

3 prises 12v.

Miroirs de courtoisie éclairés.

Rétroviseurs électriques, rabattatables et chauffants.

Poignées de portes couleur carrosserie.

Vitres de custodes électriques.

En résumé :

Habitabilité / coffre.

Climatisation efficace.

Prix d'achat.

Style exterieur.

Tenue de route.

Position de conduite.

Style interieur.

Consommation en ville.

Pas de régulateur de vitesse pour l'autoroute.

Vitres 2 éme rang closes.

Manque de puissance, couple.

Direction "molle" sur route et surtout autoroute.

Rayon de braquage.

Taille boîte à gants vraiment ridicule.

Bienvenue Old

Invité §lol374iC

jolie présentation roumain

Le moteur n'est pas un peu juste chargé, vu le poids à vide?

Pour le moteur le 2.4 à une chaine?

C'est une courroie de distribution, à changé à 190000 kms ou 7 ans.

déjà bien sale...

Invité §jod728We

Très bon achat!!!

Mon père en avait un de 1994 !

On l'a gardait 10 ans !

Il avait 345000kms quand on a eu un problème est vu qu'on avait prévu de changer de voiture !!

Ma mère a toujours voulu en racheté 1!

Actuellemnt nous l'avons remplacer par une alfa roméo 156 de 2004!!

Maintenant les rares qu'on voit ils sont dans un état...

Il est au garage, il y a un probleme de vibration en 2éme quand on décélere...

Invité §Pik405vl

Invité §naz106cE

mon père a le même

en 2.8 CRD boite auto

par contre ce qui est relou c'est quand tu passe en phare tu a le tdb qui s'éteint , tu doit donc tourner une molette pour remettre de la luminosité -_-

mon père a le même en 2.8 CRD boite auto   par contre ce qui est relou c'est quand tu passe en phare tu a le tdb qui s'éteint , tu doit donc tourner une molette pour remettre de la luminosité -_-

1) lumières

2) mode "normal", TDB allumé

Il faut laisser sur "2" et ton TDB s'éteignera plus!

https://aws-cf.caradisiac.com/prod/mesimages/248583/IMG_503.jpg

http://www.themotorreport.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2007/11/chrysler_pt_cruiser_convertible_2001_01_b.jpg

http://images.toocharger.com/img/graphiques/fonds_d_ecran/vehicules/auto/chrysler/chrysler_pt_cruiser_convertible.33823.jpg

Non il rentre, juste le spoiler avant qui frole le pavé, et encore, pas toujours.

Pour une fois je le comprend. C'est dommage parceque sinon c'est un bon véhicule, agréable à conduire.

Invité §bab567Wn

Ah, il aura pas tenu longtemps...

Non il rentre, juste le spoiler avant qui frole le pavé, et encore, pas toujours. Par contre en longueur c'est juste, on au total 4 cm de marge entre les autos, le mur du fond et la porte !!! Mais il est déjà à vendre, mon père ne s'habitue pas à la boîte de vitesse et au trésauttements qu'il fait entre deux rapports ! Pire que la R5 ! Pour une fois je le comprend. C'est dommage parceque sinon c'est un bon véhicule, agréable à conduire. La direction en ville est super, il freine bien, on est haut, c'est sympa En plus on me laisse passer, pas avec la R5 c'est étrange

Alors la record battu moins de 1 mois avec le Chrysler et déjà a vendre.

Il vise quoi comme auto ?

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